Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:13 AM - Re: Fuel selector valve attach (Randall Henderson)
2. 01:24 AM - Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? (Norman)
3. 03:08 AM - Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? (KAKlewin@aol.com)
4. 03:52 AM - faded wingtip lens (Donald Mei)
5. 05:23 AM - safety (MORGAN HETRICK)
6. 05:33 AM - Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? (Dave von Linsowe)
7. 06:02 AM - Mazda Radiator (Jerry)
8. 06:22 AM - Re: faded wingtip lens (Bob Di Meo)
9. 07:05 AM - Re: safety (Tracy Crook)
10. 07:36 AM - Re: Fuel selector valve attach (Elsa & Henry)
11. 07:48 AM - Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers)
12. 07:58 AM - Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? (lm4@juno.com)
13. 08:04 AM - Re: Non-RV-related: GPS III Pilot problems (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
14. 08:14 AM - Re: Gear legs -- titanium? (MeangreenRV4@aol.com)
15. 08:14 AM - Re: Round Headlamps or Taxi / landing light (P M Condon)
16. 08:41 AM - Re: Re: Round Headlamps or Taxi / landing light (Miller Robert)
17. 09:51 AM - Re: Mazda Radiator (Michael McGee)
18. 10:36 AM - Re: F-1 accident preliminary report (glenn williams)
19. 10:57 AM - fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner (P M Condon)
20. 11:07 AM - Final Details - RV Day at Sun n Fun 2003 (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
21. 12:18 PM - Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? (KostaLewis)
22. 12:18 PM - Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb (David Carter)
23. 12:53 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb (Sam Buchanan)
24. 12:56 PM - Re: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb (Rick Jory)
25. 01:39 PM - Flap range...is too much really too much? (Dan Checkoway)
26. 01:51 PM - Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? (Elsa & Henry)
27. 02:33 PM - Re: Flap range...is too much really too much? (Brian Denk)
28. 03:07 PM - Silver solder flux RV6 (J. R. Dial)
29. 03:22 PM - Electric Flaps housing/seat bottom (Jeff Orear)
30. 03:36 PM - Re: F-1 accident preliminary report (Kevin Horton)
31. 03:45 PM - Re: Flap range...is too much really too much? (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
32. 04:41 PM - Re: Flap range...is too much really too much? (Sam Buchanan)
33. 04:47 PM - Re: Silver solder flux RV6 (Cy Galley)
34. 04:49 PM - Re: Fuel selector valve attach (Dave Bristol)
35. 07:23 PM - Re: Flap range...is too much really too much? (Brian Denk)
36. 09:08 PM - Re: new stuff / old stuff (Federico Minlos)
37. 10:09 PM - New Survey: what's on your bus? (Dan Checkoway)
38. 11:19 PM - Re: Electric Flaps housing/seat bottom (Mark Phillips)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Fuel selector valve attach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> Somebody please help me find this snake before it bites me...
>
> Which drawing (RV-6) shows the attachment of the fuel selector plate to
> the spar bulkhead and the control console?
Ahhh grasshopper, when you can answer this one, THEN it will be time for you
to leave...
Its not shown in van's plans. Have a look at:
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/interior.html#fuelsystem
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> I'd say something about the 2" chord by 0.25 thick symmetrical airfoil
> pressure vent with two static vents that I've been flying on my RV-3 for
14
> years, but someone would probably just label the title with [SPAM].
Go ahead Jim, lets have it.
do not archive
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin@aol.com
Dan,
I dont know how it would work on a -7, but Im finishing a 6A and I replace the
fitting with a 90 degree elbow fitting...then took it off, mounted it on a piece
of cardboard...put a small dowl in the entry port to keep it clean and covered
the whole damm thing in microballoon mixed with west systems epoxy and took
5 minutes and sanded it to a teardrop shape. Coated with a few coats of epoxy
to strengthen, primed, and mounted it. Now I have a nice, teardrop faired
vent inlet...I didn't use screen in the front, but I did drill an additional
hole in the bottom of the fitting incase the front one gets plugged. FWIW...
Kurt in OKC
RV6A Finishing...someday..!!!
Message 4
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Subject: | faded wingtip lens |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Dear Listers,
My left side wingtip lens has faded from red to clear. I have a clear
whelen light with a red vans wing tip corner lens. I will soon be putting
in a set of rmd tips and would rather not go through the hassle of fitting a
new lens only to replace it in a couple of months. (my plane is in annual
and I need it red to get signed off)
So if was wondering if anyone knew of a way to recolor the plastic lens to
red.
Thanks,
Don Mei
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
Americans used to roar like lions for liberty: Now they bleat like sheep for
security
Norman Vincent Peale
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "MORGAN HETRICK" <morgan@heifercreek.com>
CAUTION on the GPS.
The "nearest" feature on my Garmin lies to me.
Most of the airports on the sectional chart are not on the GPS.
Garmin blames it on Jeppesen, who supplies the database.
Jeppesen says it is their attorneys who have decided that Jepp has some kind of
unwanted liability for including "private" airports even tho they are on the
sectional.
So be aware that one of the best safety features in the history of aviation lies
to you and cannot be used in the intended manner.
Morgan
Former RV-6
Working on RV-8
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
By drilling the extra hole, you may have turned your fitting into a
venturi...
Dave
RV-6
The need for speed--->
> --> RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin@aol.com
>
> Dan,
>
> I dont know how it would work on a -7, but Im finishing a 6A and I
replace the fitting with a 90 degree elbow fitting...then took it off,
mounted it on a piece of cardboard...put a small dowl in the entry port to
keep it clean and covered the whole damm thing in microballoon mixed with
west systems epoxy and took 5 minutes and sanded it to a teardrop shape.
Coated with a few coats of epoxy to strengthen, primed, and mounted it. Now
I have a nice, teardrop faired vent inlet...I didn't use screen in the
front, but I did drill an additional hole in the bottom of the fitting
incase the front one gets plugged. FWIW...
>
> Kurt in OKC
> RV6A Finishing...someday..!!!
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" <jdoyal@sport.rr.com>
Hello,
I am building an 8A and just installed the engine and set it on its gear. I am
using a Powersport Mazda 13 B engine. Has anyone else on the list used this combination
and if so could you help me get an idea on fabricating the mount for
the radiator and oil cooler. Any other ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jerry Doyal
RV 8A Mazda 13B
Finishing
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: faded wingtip lens |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Di Meo" <bdimeo@attbi.com>
Don,
Why not just get a red lens from Whelen?
Bob
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: faded wingtip lens
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> My left side wingtip lens has faded from red to clear. I have a clear
> whelen light with a red vans wing tip corner lens. I will soon be putting
> in a set of rmd tips and would rather not go through the hassle of fitting
a
> new lens only to replace it in a couple of months. (my plane is in annual
> and I need it red to get signed off)
>
> So if was wondering if anyone knew of a way to recolor the plastic lens to
> red.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4
> 3B9 - Chester, CT
>
>
> Americans used to roar like lions for liberty: Now they bleat like sheep
for
> security
>
> Norman Vincent Peale
>
>
> The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "MORGAN HETRICK" <morgan@heifercreek.com>
>
> CAUTION on the GPS.
> The "nearest" feature on my Garmin lies to me.
> Most of the airports on the sectional chart are not on the GPS.
> Garmin blames it on Jeppesen, who supplies the database.
> Jeppesen says it is their attorneys who have decided that Jepp has some
kind of unwanted liability for including "private" airports even tho they
are on the sectional.
> So be aware that one of the best safety features in the history of
aviation lies to you and cannot be used in the intended manner.
> Morgan
> Former RV-6
> Working on RV-8
>
This is one reason I love my Anywhere Map GPS, it includes all private
aristrips in the database.
Tracy Crook
RV-4 flying
RV-8 still building
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Fuel selector valve attach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Jeff, my 1995 vintage drawings show it in #32, top LH corner, not much
detail there though. Some further info is shown in #49. My manual, in pg
8-13 details how to install it,-- but this is one of Van's design snafus!
It says to mount the plate on the seat skins----Bunk!! If you do that, every
time you want to take the seat-skins off to inspect control linkage,etc,
think of what you have to do to get them out!!---disconnect the console,
remove the plate (which means disconnecting fuel lines, etc, etc!!--Nuts!!
I mounted the F683 base plate directly on the F604 bulkhead and cut the
seat skins (#39) to fit around it. This makes the fuel-valve, et-al, a
permanent installation and the seat skins can be removed at will without
disturbing it.
Cheers!! -----Henry Hore
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Me too!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Jim,
>
> Bad guy or not, I'm curious and would like to know more.
>
> Ed Holyoke
> 6QB
> drilling engine mount to firewall tomorrow night.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LeastDrag93066@aol.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 8:41 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner?
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I'd say something about the 2" chord by 0.25 thick symmetrical airfoil
> > pressure vent with two static vents that I've been flying on my RV-3
> for
> > 14
> > years, but someone would probably just label the title with [SPAM].
> >
> > Funny how (after developing a specialized product) when I try to sell
> it,
> > I
> > become the "BAD GUY".
> >
> > Too bad.
> >
> > Jim Ayers
> > RV-3 N47RV sn50
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
Jim,
I put this post in my archives for future use but if you
have more details I'd like to read them.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
I'd say something about the 2" chord by 0.25 thick symmetrical
airfoil pressure vent with two static vents that I've been flying
on my RV-3 for 14 years, but someone would probably just label
the title with [SPAM].Funny how (after developing a specialized
product) when I try to sell it, I become the "BAD GUY". Too bad.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV sn50
Message 13
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Subject: | Non-RV-related: GPS III Pilot problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
For what it's worth for those of you experiencing the same problems I am, I
updated my software already. I think mine is a power problem within the
unit itself.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Prior [mailto:rv7@b4.ca]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Non-RV-related: GPS III Pilot problems
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Before everyone sends their GPS in for service, you might want to check to
see if you're running the latest firmware on it.
http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsIIIPilot/download.html
Or, start from the www.garmin.com page and click on "software updates". If
it's just a software update, then this is likely it. If it's not "just" a
software update, you may still need to send your unit in... But it may be
worth trying this first.
If it does work, however, you may have just saved yourself $150.
-RB4
Roger Embree wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Roger Embree <rembree@sympatico.ca>
>
> I have exactly the same problem.
>
> Thanks to Scott for bringing this up and others for the solution. I'll
> be sending mine in for the software upgrade.
>
--
---------
Rob Prior
rv7 "at" b4.ca
-----------------------------
Stop dreaming... Start flying
perl -e 'print $i=pack(c5,(41*2),sqrt(7056),(unpack(c,H)-2),oct(115),10);'
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Gear legs -- titanium? |
--> RV-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4@aol.com
In a message dated 1/6/2003 7:56:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jhstarn@earthlink.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
>
> I have noticed that there is humor in just about everything. I do in my own
> small way attempt to inject some into these "fight/argument/ etc/etc"
> subjects. Lighten up, it makes the trip to the first flight a lot more fun.
> Keep up with the subjects and I'll continue to poke fun.
> Do Not Archive. KABONG
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear legs -- titanium?
>
I will second that....well noted.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Round Headlamps or Taxi / landing light |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
The HID kits and upgrades are available thru DUCKWORTH and RMD. I do
not have the URL for either of them handy. I did read a reply on this
topic Monday that had the URL for these companies.(yeller pages too)
The HID lights are about 4 time as briliant as the old PAR-36 4 inch
lawn tractor headlamp. Even with the halogen upgrade I did at 140,000 CP
(up from 60,000CP-the 4 inch tractor headlamp)), the HID are rated at
390,000CP AND take 1/3 the current AND are not as hot at the plastic
lens area. Price is the kicker. I upgraded to the halogen and they work
nicely. The light beam is a little narrower, but the brightness and CP
increase I got from the halogen upgrade more then overcomes the 1 or 2
degree (less) of beam width.
Time: 08:28:53 AM PST US
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Round Headlamps or Taxi / landing lights
--> RV-List message posted by: Charles Kuss <chaskuss@yahoo.com>
Phil,
Thanks for the informative post. Do you have any part
number(s) for the HID PAR-36 replacement lamps?
Charlie Kuss
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Round Headlamps or Taxi / landing light |
--> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
The HID lights are indeed attractive.
Two issues:
1. Price
2. Altitude restriction. Around 10, 000, if memory serves. Since I like
to keep landing lights on all the time for safety, it is inevitable that
sooner or later I will forget to turn them off when flying higher than
that. What happens?
And one question:
I hope to use Bill VonDane's all inclusive wingtip lighting in my 9a. Will
the HID lamps fit? / And otherwise be compatible?
Thanks.
Robert
P M Condon wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
>
> The HID kits and upgrades are available thru DUCKWORTH and RMD. I do
> not have the URL for either of them handy. I did read a reply on this
> topic Monday that had the URL for these companies.(yeller pages too)
> The HID lights are about 4 time as briliant as the old PAR-36 4 inch
> lawn tractor headlamp. Even with the halogen upgrade I did at 140,000 CP
> (up from 60,000CP-the 4 inch tractor headlamp)), the HID are rated at
> 390,000CP AND take 1/3 the current AND are not as hot at the plastic
> lens area. Price is the kicker. I upgraded to the halogen and they work
> nicely. The light beam is a little narrower, but the brightness and CP
> increase I got from the halogen upgrade more then overcomes the 1 or 2
> degree (less) of beam width.
>
> Time: 08:28:53 AM PST US
> From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Round Headlamps or Taxi / landing lights
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charles Kuss <chaskuss@yahoo.com>
>
> Phil,
> Thanks for the informative post. Do you have any part
> number(s) for the HID PAR-36 replacement lamps?
> Charlie Kuss
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Mazda Radiator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 22:58 1/7/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" <jdoyal@sport.rr.com>
>
>Hello,
>
>I am building an 8A and just installed the engine and set it on its gear.
>I am using a Powersport Mazda 13 B engine. Has anyone else on the list
>used this combination and if so could you help me get an idea on
>fabricating the mount for the radiator and oil cooler. Any other ideas
>will be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Jerry Doyal
>RV 8A Mazda 13B
>Finishing
Power Sport should have this mapped out already. (I thought they had a
firewall forward package for the RV-8.) You may want to talk to them first
in order to not infringe on any warranty issues.
If you are working on your own design, another email newsletter I'm on is
dedicated to rotary engines in aircraft and there are a lot of RV builders
on it. You can send an email to rotaryeng@earthlink.net, introduce
yourself and request to sign up. Sample it for a while to see if you like
the content, present your question there. It is mostly focused on the
development of the installation concentrating on many details that you are
asking about. Much of your installation is already done for you by Power
Sport. This group in particular is focused on building the installation
from scratch. However there are a number of entrepreneurial types that
have developed parts to save the builder a lot of work and there are a lot
of good ideas debated on the ACRE NL.
You can go to this URL and look around http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/
there are a lot of installation ideas there. The group is also developing
a general technical standard for the installation of rotary engines in
aircraft, although it will be a while before it is complete.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: F-1 accident preliminary report |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
I have heard that the vertical stab departed and I
have heard the horizontal departed. If the vertical
stab departed, would the pilot still have had elevator
authority? I heard the aircraft went in almost
vertical. If you lose the vertical stab you lose yaw
not elevator authority if I am correct, Or did the
elevator push rod fail as a result of the vertical
pulling off?
Just curious
Glenn Williams
do not archive
--- Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow@fedex.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Brumbelow
> <csbrumbelow@fedex.com>
>
> What is significant is that the builder did not
> include a key structural component of the vertical
> stab attachment to the fuselage; not so much that
> the F-1 tail is "nearly identical" to the
> RV-8. Had the 1" x 1" angle attach piece (rear spar
> to fus) been included, this failure probably would
> not have occurred - even with the additional
> problems with the forward spar attachment.
>
> I am not sure what the part call-out for the F-1 vs.
> the RV tail is, but for RV builders at least the
> lesson here is clear - stick to the plans,
> especially for key structural components!
>
> Scott Brumbelow
> Memphis, RV-8A
> Cowling, electrical
>
>
> James & Shalise Cash wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "James & Shalise
> Cash" <jcash@charter.net>
> >
> > Thought I'd forward this to all my airplane
> buddies. If you hadn't heard,
> > there was an F-1 Rocket crash in Houston, several
> weeks ago. An eyewitness
> > saw the aircraft impact the ground near vertical,
> at a high rate of speed.
> > The vertical stabilizer tumbled down moments
> later. This is Mark
> > Frederick's preliminary finding after talking to
> the FAA, NTSB, and viewing
> > the wreckage. It is significant to the RV
> community because the F-1 tail is nearly identical
> to the RV-8, with the exception of a 1/8" doubler on
> the forward spar of the vertical stabilizer.
> > Jimmy
> >
> > PRELIMINARY REPORT
> > CREEKMORE F1 ACCIDENT
> >
> > Hi All:
> >
> > I'm sure you have been waiting for some definitive
> data regarding Tom
> > Creekmore's accident. I was able to inspect the
> wreckage of the aft section
> > of the ship last Friday, along with the FAA. The
> following is my report to
> > you, not an official NTSB report.
> >
> > Preliminary Results are as follows:
> >
> > The builders did not fabricate nor install the
> upper attachment fitting for
> > the V Fin aft spar. This is a length of 1x1x.125
> 6061T6 angle that is
> > designed to absorb the Fin torque loads resulting
> from rudder deflections.
> > Four AN3 fasteners attach this fitting to the aft
> section of the fuselage,
> > and to the V Fin aft spar.
> >
> > Lack of this fitting caused the HS-015 to absorb
> most of the Fin torque
> > loads, in addition to flexing the HS-015 past its
> fatigue life. It appears
> > that the HS-015 failed at one of the V Fin spar
> attach bolts, and separated
> > from the H Stab spar.
> >
> > In addition, the V Fin fwd spar/HS-015 attach
> holes were not drilled per the
> > assy manual, with one hole appearing to have about
> 3/16" ED on the HS-015
> > (3/8" would be a standard distance). The
> separation at the HS-015 appears to
> > have started at this hole.
> >
> > I will wait for the NTSB to publish their
> findings, and I'll add this to a
> > dedicated web page detailing what happened.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Mark
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Message 19
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Subject: | fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
RV-List: Re: Vent Line Funnel shaped exections added to exit fitings
Speaking of exit vent lines. Lots of RV's I see at Oshgosh have small
aluimun tubing pieces that are flaired open to get more air. Is there a
real reason that people do this other then the obvious ? I was never
able to get a real answer on this. I have also seen a fair number of
these extentions at the air shows. The reason I can remenber this is
because the RV-4 four pipe exhaust runs right below the exit point....
per plans.
Message 20
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Subject: | Final Details - RV Day at Sun n Fun 2003 |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
For those who needed the details. Here ya go.
Do not archive
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: Laura Crook [mailto:laura_crook@hotmail.com]
James Daron; Hank Lumb; B K; Baggwett CPA; Bobby Hargrave; Bon Broad; D Tom
Sawyer; Dave Spears; Fly Jump Dive; M W Hidden; Simpson; Tracy Crook; Wing
Time; Richard Sipp; J D ; Talimara; Jake; R B Sails; William Shannon;
Douglas Gardner; Norman Pesch; Jane Graig; RV 8 Builder; Skip; Barry and
Donna Crook; Chuck Ellis; Dave Berelsman; Rob Jankowski
Subject: Final Details - RV Day at Sun n Fun 2003
The event starts Friday afternoon January 10th. The tower and ground are
both expecting us - tell them you are going to RV Day at the Sun n Fun
campus. John McShane will be there in a cart to help with plane parking.
We'll meet and set up camp and set up our camp fire. FREE camping is
provided for tents and recreational vehicles. Porti-Potties and showers
will be available. Camping will be in the old "early Bird camping area" -
the same place we camped last year. If you are unsure where the camping
area is, fly in anyway and we'll be happy to show you! If you are driving
in, drive over to the grassy are near the FAA building and you'll see the
RVs. Also, bring a plastic ground cloth to put under your tent - due to all
the rain the ground is pretty saturated.
We will be ordering pizza about 5:30 pm and, since I'll have a car, I'll
pick it up this year. For those who are interested, Bill Fortney will be
speaking at the Museum at 7 pm Friday night. Bill is an award winning photo
journalist, who (at one time) was told that he had a short time to live so
he decided to fly across America, taking photos from his plane. Admission
is $12.00.
The rest of us will have a camp fire and socialize until sleepy time.
PLEASE NOTE: Please plan to BRING BEVERAGES AND SNACKS FOR FRIDAY NIGHT, as
no food will be provided (except what we order with the pizza).
Saturday we'll have a pancake and sausage breakfast at the Sun n Fun Caf=E9.
PLEASE REGISTER SATURDAY MORNING - there will be a registration table set up
near the RV plane parking. We have two gift certificates for AvGas -
we'll raffle those off to RV pilots who fly in. We also have other door
prizes that we will give away at the forums so please register to get your
FREE raffle tickets
Bernie Kerr has arranged 3 forums, to be held in Hangar A (where the Curtis
Weeks collection is on display). The forums will start about 10 am and are:
Jan Bussell, CFII will discuss landing in your RV and Builder's Tips.
Mike Stewart will do a presentation on Formation Flying. He is the leader
of an Altanta area RV group.
Bernie Kerr will talk about his experience building a new Prepunch kit
(RV-9A), compared to a 1997 6A prepunch kit. Also, he'll briefly talk about
his early experiences mounting a rotary engine in the 9A.
Lunch will start about 12:00 - hot dogs, chips, drinks. Gifts of Flight
will be open from 10 am - 1 pm.
Attendees are welcome to stay as long as they want to after lunch - Sun n
Fun will not "throw any body out", so please do not hesitate to stay to talk
and admire the planes.
Please call me at 386/935-2973 or email me at this address with any
question. See you there!
Message 21
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Subject: | fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "KostaLewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
My fuel vents were made with a piece of streamlined aluminum tubing that
is sold as lift strut material at the local hobby shop, 3/4 inch chord.
This was placed around a piece of round aluminum tubing (the vent) that
was attached to the AN fitting, and faired in with, as I remember, a
micro balloon slurry. A hole then drilled on the leading edge of the
streamlined tube. So you see the blue AN fitting with a black (painted)
streamlined vent hanging in the breeze.
Mine are installed in the location described in the plans. No problems
in 650+ hours. Placement is very near the exhaust exit and cooling air
exit and I don't think icing would be a problem there. No screens.
Looking in them, of course, is part of my preflight inspection. They
look WAY better than just that bare piece of tubing hanging out. They
look like they were made to be there. Because they were. Needless to
say, they are not flared, which is to say that the flare may make no
difference.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
72 degrees this Colorado morning at 7500 msl and smmoooooooooooth as a
baby's butt. (I'm getting to where I like to chase down and pass
retractable gear airplanes. At a distance, of course. Most of them wave
back.....)
Message 22
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"aeroelectric-list" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: | Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
On my RV-6 I'm splicing in extra lengths of wire (14 or 16 awg - definitely bigger
than 20 or 22) on my Whelen tail/strobe lights so have enough wire for service
loop, etc. for maintenance/light fixture removal, etc. First tried to solder
with a regular soldering gun but got cold solder joints due to wires wiggling
with gun tip physically pressing on the wires.
So, am going to buy a soldering torch - so don't have to physically touch the wires
except with the thin solder strand. Had previously figured the torch was
only for real pros like Bob Nuckolls - now I can see that an amateur like me
needs one, too.
Went to Radio Shack and found they are on sale for $5 off the normal $19.99 price
thru 2 Feb or some such date. Anyone needs one, enjoy the price.
David Carter
RV-6 - about to close the aft fuselage with top aft skins
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack |
thru 2 Feb
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
David Carter wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> On my RV-6 I'm splicing in extra lengths of wire (14 or 16 awg - definitely bigger
than 20 or 22) on my Whelen tail/strobe lights so have enough wire for service
loop, etc. for maintenance/light fixture removal, etc. First tried to
solder with a regular soldering gun but got cold solder joints due to wires wiggling
with gun tip physically pressing on the wires.
>
> So, am going to buy a soldering torch - so don't have to physically touch the
wires except with the thin solder strand. Had previously figured the torch was
only for real pros like Bob Nuckolls - now I can see that an amateur like me
needs one, too.
>
> Went to Radio Shack and found they are on sale for $5 off the normal $19.99 price
thru 2 Feb or some such date. Anyone needs one, enjoy the price.
>
> David Carter
> RV-6 - about to close the aft fuselage with top aft skins
Crimped butt joints work great in situations like this. Only takes a few
seconds to install (even in cramped quarters), is self-insulating, and
less likely to fail than a soldered joint.
Be sure you use the proper, high-quality racheting crimper (about $45.00
and works great with all "Fast-On" terminals).
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
Why not splice via the splices that you crimp? Fast, easy, secure. I'm not
one to "teach", but I've read solder and planes don't go together. Most of
the wiring we use is stranded, not solid core . . . so that it can vibrate,
flex, etc. without breaking. Solder adds, in effect, a "solid core"
section. Anyway, that's my two cents.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: David Carter <dcarter@datarecall.net>
<aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> On my RV-6 I'm splicing in extra lengths of wire (14 or 16 awg -
definitely bigger than 20 or 22) on my Whelen tail/strobe lights so have
enough wire for service loop, etc. for maintenance/light fixture removal,
etc. First tried to solder with a regular soldering gun but got cold
solder joints due to wires wiggling with gun tip physically pressing on the
wires.
>
> So, am going to buy a soldering torch - so don't have to physically touch
the wires except with the thin solder strand. Had previously figured the
torch was only for real pros like Bob Nuckolls - now I can see that an
amateur like me needs one, too.
>
> Went to Radio Shack and found they are on sale for $5 off the normal
$19.99 price thru 2 Feb or some such date. Anyone needs one, enjoy the
price.
>
> David Carter
> RV-6 - about to close the aft fuselage with top aft skins
>
>
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Flap range...is too much really too much? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I rigged my flaps and ended up getting more like 45 degrees of travel
instead of the recommended maximum of 40. I'm going to install an UP limit
switch anyway so I can use an ON-OFF-(ON) switch on the stick, and I figure
I'll just end up installing a 2nd limit switch to limit DOWN travel to 40
degrees.
Granted, I could just "manually govern" how far I extend the flaps, but on
final I'd rather just hold my thumb down until the flaps stop moving rather
than having to glance here or there to determine if I hit 35 or 40 or 45 or
whatever.
But I guess what I'm wondering is what other builders have experienced...am
I the only person to have more than the prescribed 40 degrees of travel?
Something tells me there have been hundreds or thousands before me with this
same issue. Have you installed a DOWN limit switch, manually limited how
much flaps you extend, or just say screw it and let all 45 flap in the
breeze?
I'm planning on experimenting during phase one with flap extension anyway,
and I figure I can feel out the envelope at different weights to see what
affect the extra 5 degrees have on handling, stall, etc.
Ok, enough babbling...your thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: fuel vent exit fittings...anything cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
A Cousin parked his Bonanza for 14 days at boulder Colorado when visiting
his brother and when leaving, doing some circuits, his engine quit cold. The
resulting forced landing was a fine piloting job, but the Bonanza was
written-off as it finished up in a ditch. Reason for engine stoppage? Both
fuel tank vents were plugged by mud-wasps!! Beware!! If you don't have
screens, at least put "Remove-Before-Flight" caps on your vents when
parking!!
Cheers!!-------Henry Hore
Message 27
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|
Subject: | Re: Flap range...is too much really too much? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I rigged my flaps and ended up getting more like 45 degrees of travel
>instead of the recommended maximum of 40. I'm going to install an UP limit
>switch anyway so I can use an ON-OFF-(ON) switch on the stick, and I figure
>I'll just end up installing a 2nd limit switch to limit DOWN travel to 40
>degrees.
>
>Granted, I could just "manually govern" how far I extend the flaps, but on
>final I'd rather just hold my thumb down until the flaps stop moving rather
>than having to glance here or there to determine if I hit 35 or 40 or 45 or
>whatever.
>
>But I guess what I'm wondering is what other builders have experienced...am
>I the only person to have more than the prescribed 40 degrees of travel?
>Something tells me there have been hundreds or thousands before me with
>this
>same issue. Have you installed a DOWN limit switch, manually limited how
>much flaps you extend, or just say screw it and let all 45 flap in the
>breeze?
>
>I'm planning on experimenting during phase one with flap extension anyway,
>and I figure I can feel out the envelope at different weights to see what
>affect the extra 5 degrees have on handling, stall, etc.
>
>Ok, enough babbling...your thoughts?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
>http://www.rvproject.com
Dan,
I just used the switch as supplied in the kit (panel mounted) with no end
switches, relays or other forms of electronic voodoo. If I want full flaps,
I just hit the switch and hold it until the flap motor reaches the end of
it's travel...for whatever exact amount of flap deployment that happens to
be. (I rigged them per plans.) Then, I let go. Same thing for bringing
them up...hold switch, look at wing...see flaps are up..let go of switch. My
switch is right above the throttle handle so I can operate both at the same
time...ala Cessnaspam.
Once you go beyond ten or fifteen degrees or so, you're adding mostly drag.
I doubt you will see a measureable difference in 40 or 45 degrees. Just
make absolutely sure you cannot possibly drive them down far enough to cause
the flap leading edge to pop out from under the top wing skin! Egads, the
horror.
Have fun.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
315 hrs.
The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months
Message 28
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|
Subject: | Silver solder flux RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Electrical connector on my heated pitot tube calls for silver solder. I
have used silver solder but not on electrical connections, what kind of
flux should I use?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 29
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|
Subject: | Electric Flaps housing/seat bottom |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
List:
I am in the process of installing my electric flaps and have a question regarding
the housing covers, EF607's as they pertain to the center seat bottom panel.
The center of the seat is obviously removable to gain access for inspection etc
of the elevator pushrod. Is it permissible to cut this panel where the lower
front bracket that attaches the EF 601 to the floor makes a bend to meet up with
the floor/EF601? The cover panels, EF607's, have a very wide flange on them
that will overlap the seat bottoms very nicely aft of where the EF601 attaches
without the need for the rear-most part of the center seat access panel.
Just seems like repetition here.
What have all others done here?
Thanks!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage
Peshtigo, WI
Message 30
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|
Subject: | Re: F-1 accident preliminary report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
Well, if the VS came off, the aircraft would probably no longer be
stable directionally, so the nose would likely slice left or right,
leading to a very large sideslip angle. The aircraft could even end
so the tail was going first for a short period (i.e. greater than a
90 deg sideslip angle). In any event, the wings wouldn't provide
much lift if the sideslip angle got great enough, and if there is
less lift than weight the flight path will become more and more
vertical.
If the nose isn't pointing somewhat in the direction of flight, it
doesn't matter what the pilot does with the elevator - he won't have
much control of things.
Kevin Horton
At 10:31 AM -0800 8/1/03, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
>
>I have heard that the vertical stab departed and I
>have heard the horizontal departed. If the vertical
>stab departed, would the pilot still have had elevator
>authority? I heard the aircraft went in almost
>vertical. If you lose the vertical stab you lose yaw
>not elevator authority if I am correct, Or did the
>elevator push rod fail as a result of the vertical
>pulling off?
>
>Just curious
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>do not archive
>
>
>--- Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow@fedex.com> wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Brumbelow
>> <csbrumbelow@fedex.com>
>>
>> What is significant is that the builder did not
>> include a key structural component of the vertical
>> stab attachment to the fuselage; not so much that
>> the F-1 tail is "nearly identical" to the
>> RV-8. Had the 1" x 1" angle attach piece (rear spar
>> to fus) been included, this failure probably would
>> not have occurred - even with the additional
>> problems with the forward spar attachment.
>>
>> I am not sure what the part call-out for the F-1 vs.
>> the RV tail is, but for RV builders at least the
>> lesson here is clear - stick to the plans,
>> especially for key structural components!
>>
>> Scott Brumbelow
>> Memphis, RV-8A
>> Cowling, electrical
>>
>>
>> James & Shalise Cash wrote:
>>
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "James & Shalise
>> Cash" <jcash@charter.net>
>> >
>> > Thought I'd forward this to all my airplane
>> buddies. If you hadn't heard,
>> > there was an F-1 Rocket crash in Houston, several
>> weeks ago. An eyewitness
>> > saw the aircraft impact the ground near vertical,
>> at a high rate of speed.
>> > The vertical stabilizer tumbled down moments
>> later. This is Mark
>> > Frederick's preliminary finding after talking to
>> the FAA, NTSB, and viewing
>> > the wreckage. It is significant to the RV
>> community because the F-1 tail is nearly identical
>> to the RV-8, with the exception of a 1/8" doubler on
>> the forward spar of the vertical stabilizer.
>> > Jimmy
>> >
>> > PRELIMINARY REPORT
>> > CREEKMORE F1 ACCIDENT
>> >
>> > Hi All:
>> >
>> > I'm sure you have been waiting for some definitive
>> data regarding Tom
>> > Creekmore's accident. I was able to inspect the
>> wreckage of the aft section
>> > of the ship last Friday, along with the FAA. The
>> following is my report to
>> > you, not an official NTSB report.
>> >
>> > Preliminary Results are as follows:
>> >
>> > The builders did not fabricate nor install the
>> upper attachment fitting for
>> > the V Fin aft spar. This is a length of 1x1x.125
>> 6061T6 angle that is
>> > designed to absorb the Fin torque loads resulting
>> from rudder deflections.
>> > Four AN3 fasteners attach this fitting to the aft
>> section of the fuselage,
>> > and to the V Fin aft spar.
>> >
>> > Lack of this fitting caused the HS-015 to absorb
>> most of the Fin torque
>> > loads, in addition to flexing the HS-015 past its
>> fatigue life. It appears
>> > that the HS-015 failed at one of the V Fin spar
>> attach bolts, and separated
>> > from the H Stab spar.
>> >
>> > In addition, the V Fin fwd spar/HS-015 attach
>> holes were not drilled per the
>> > assy manual, with one hole appearing to have about
>> 3/16" ED on the HS-015
>> > (3/8" would be a standard distance). The
>> separation at the HS-015 appears to
> > > have started at this hole.
>> >
>> > I will wait for the NTSB to publish their
>> findings, and I'll add this to a
>> > dedicated web page detailing what happened.
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > Mark
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> Contributions
>> any other
>> Forums.
>>
>> latest messages.
>> List members.
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>=====
>Glenn Williams
>8A
>A&P
>N81GW
>
>
Message 31
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|
Subject: | Flap range...is too much really too much? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Brian and anyone else,
The horror? The horror is me! My flaps do pop out if I extend them all the
way. Can anyone give me some hints as to which rod or rods to shorten
lengthen or whatever to correct this? Help!
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy@hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap range...is too much really too much?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I rigged my flaps and ended up getting more like 45 degrees of travel
>instead of the recommended maximum of 40. I'm going to install an UP limit
>switch anyway so I can use an ON-OFF-(ON) switch on the stick, and I figure
>I'll just end up installing a 2nd limit switch to limit DOWN travel to 40
>degrees.
>
>Granted, I could just "manually govern" how far I extend the flaps, but on
>final I'd rather just hold my thumb down until the flaps stop moving rather
>than having to glance here or there to determine if I hit 35 or 40 or 45 or
>whatever.
>
>But I guess what I'm wondering is what other builders have experienced...am
>I the only person to have more than the prescribed 40 degrees of travel?
>Something tells me there have been hundreds or thousands before me with
>this
>same issue. Have you installed a DOWN limit switch, manually limited how
>much flaps you extend, or just say screw it and let all 45 flap in the
>breeze?
>
>I'm planning on experimenting during phase one with flap extension anyway,
>and I figure I can feel out the envelope at different weights to see what
>affect the extra 5 degrees have on handling, stall, etc.
>
>Ok, enough babbling...your thoughts?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
>http://www.rvproject.com
Dan,
I just used the switch as supplied in the kit (panel mounted) with no end
switches, relays or other forms of electronic voodoo. If I want full flaps,
I just hit the switch and hold it until the flap motor reaches the end of
it's travel...for whatever exact amount of flap deployment that happens to
be. (I rigged them per plans.) Then, I let go. Same thing for bringing
them up...hold switch, look at wing...see flaps are up..let go of switch. My
switch is right above the throttle handle so I can operate both at the same
time...ala Cessnaspam.
Once you go beyond ten or fifteen degrees or so, you're adding mostly drag.
I doubt you will see a measureable difference in 40 or 45 degrees. Just
make absolutely sure you cannot possibly drive them down far enough to cause
the flap leading edge to pop out from under the top wing skin! Egads, the
horror.
Have fun.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
315 hrs.
The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months
Message 32
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|
Subject: | Re: Flap range...is too much really too much? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Brian Denk wrote:
<snip>
Just
> make absolutely sure you cannot possibly drive them down far enough to cause
> the flap leading edge to pop out from under the top wing skin! Egads, the
> horror.
Egads is right! Also make sure the flaps don't extend enough to allow
the edge of the anti-rub tape to get out past the trailing edge of the
wing. Believe me, if that happens, you will hear the flap motor *really*
pulling hard as the flap gets snagged by the tape, followed by a
tremendous POP!! if the flap manages to push the tape back under the
trailing edge! :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, originally with manual flaps, now with 'lectric)
Message 33
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Subject: | Re: Silver solder flux RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Borax is what I use for silver soldering.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Subject: RV-List: Silver solder flux RV6
> --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
>
> Electrical connector on my heated pitot tube calls for silver solder. I
> have used silver solder but not on electrical connections, what kind of
> flux should I use?
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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Subject: | Re: Fuel selector valve attach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Here we go again! Van's recommended installation of this plate works just fine.
It might be easier to to remove the floors with the plate mounted otherwise, but
it is NOT "ANOTHER VAN'S DESIGN SNAFU". Build it either way you want but let's
quit bashing Van when he didn't do anything wrong.
Dave
>
>
> Jeff, my 1995 vintage drawings show it in #32, top LH corner, not much
> detail there though. Some further info is shown in #49. My manual, in pg
> 8-13 details how to install it,-- but this is one of Van's design snafus!
> It says to mount the plate on the seat skins----Bunk!! If you do that, every
> time you want to take the seat-skins off to inspect control linkage,etc,
> think of what you have to do to get them out!!---disconnect the console,
> remove the plate (which means disconnecting fuel lines, etc, etc!!--Nuts!!
> I mounted the F683 base plate directly on the F604 bulkhead and cut the
> seat skins (#39) to fit around it. This makes the fuel-valve, et-al, a
> permanent installation and the seat skins can be removed at will without
> disturbing it.
>
>
Message 35
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Subject: | Flap range...is too much really too much? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
><svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
>Brian and anyone else,
>The horror? The horror is me! My flaps do pop out if I extend them all
>the
>way. Can anyone give me some hints as to which rod or rods to shorten
>lengthen or whatever to correct this? Help!
Whoa! By all means fix that pronto. Shorten the flap pushrods or if you
have more travel available on the rod end bearings, then screw them in
equally on both sides. You may have to work with the geometry of your flap
mechanism to get it just right. I'm guessing you have a -4 with manual
flaps, or are they electric? Either way, and as with all flight control
surfaces, they must all be moved to extremes of travel, in every possible
combination to assure that nothing whatsoever will jam, bind, or foul
something else on the airplane. Otherwise, the next item to be fouled will
likely be the pilot's underwear!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 36
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Subject: | new stuff / old stuff |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Federico Minlos" <fjminlos@crazy-bear.com>
I would like to order Private Pilot Manual - Jeppesen
Fred Minlos
Ontario, Canada
future pilot, future rv-9 builder
-----Mensaje original-----
De: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]En nombre de Aircraft
Technical Book Company
Enviado el: January 7, 2003 22:30
Para: rv-list@matronics.com
Asunto: RV-List: new stuff / old stuff
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
<winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
NEW STUFF
Lots of new items (mostly on flying skills) that are not yet posted on
Builder's Bookstore. So, until they are in about 4-5 days, we'll do a 20%
off sale. (valid till Moday the 13th) As they are not yet posted, if you
want anything from this list, please order by return e-mail or phone. Tell
us your on the RV-list and we'll deduct 20%.
Pilot's Manual (Textbooks) - Jeppesen
Brush up on your flying skills, or earn a new rating. The Jeppesen pilot's
manuals are top shelf! A little bit pricey, but the best available. They
will be replacing the lesser quality ASA manuals we used to carry.
Private Pilot Manual $76.95 now $61.56
Instrument/Commercial Pilot Manual $81.95 now $65.56
Flight Instructor Manual $72.95 now $58.36
Multi Engine Manual $59.95 now $47.96 (for the RV-12?)
Flight School - CD
A complete at-home course with an interactive textbook, lesson plans, audio,
animations, and the complete written test guide with a self grading virtual
test experience. This is a really neat program.
Private Pilot Flight School $154.95 now $123.96
Instrument Pilot Flight School $159.95 now $127.96
2003 FAR/AIMs with FARs for AMTs on CD
$29.95 now $23.96
Human Factors for Aviation
Accident analysis based on human perception, cockpit and panel design,
physiological issues, and resource management $41.95 now $33.56
Flight Theory for Pilots
An primary but somewhat technical aerodynamics text written for Air Force
pilots. Lots of math. $23.95 now $19.16
OLD STUFF
Here's a few more bargain basement items at big discounts. These are either
older editions, slightly worn items, or brand new sample books we are not
going to carry. Most of these are 1 of a kind, so its first come first
serve.
Understanding Composites
brand new and excellent composite working books specifically for light
aircraft. These are normally $29.95 but I've got a few (9) with clipped
covers which are now 1/2 price $15.00
Advanced Composites
The characteristics and use of high tech materials such as carbon, kevlar,
borons, honeycombs, etc... 2 left of the earlier edition. Was $32.95
Now $15.00
Avionics Technician Best Shop Practices
1 left of the 2002 edition Was $19.95 Now $10.00
Panel Planner Software
an earlier version we were sent for evaluation. Definitely not worth the
$125 they were asking for it, but may be fun to play with for just $20
Understanding Performance Flight Testing
flight testing for kitplanes. a good book which is somewhat more
technically written but not that much better than Flight Testing For
Homebuilt Aircraft, that we currently carry, but since this one is $10 more,
I elected to stick with the original. 1 sample copy Was $35 now $20
Gleim Private Flight Manuevers
I don't particularly like the Gleim books. Some do; I don't. Here's one
for $10.
Gleim Private Test guide
Same as above. Its OK, but the Jepp and ASA books are better 1 for $10
Gleim Aviation weather
Not even close to the quality of the Jeppesen Weather book; but it is
cheaper.
Now this one is alot cheaper $10
Aviation Law - an introduction
Not our thing. If its your's, heres an good sized, hard cover text for $20
The Around The Rim Flight
Story of Col. RS Hartz who flew a twin engine Glen-Martin Bomber around the
US. $5 - or because you've patiently read through this entire post; Free
with any other order. But I've just got one.
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
do not archive
Message 37
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Subject: | New Survey: what's on your bus? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
If you have a moment, I kindly ask that you take this quick survey (just a
few clicks required) which asks what you have (or will have) on your various
electrical busses:
http://www.rvproject.com/buspoll/
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 38
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Subject: | Re: Electric Flaps housing/seat bottom |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Jeff-
I would be hesitant to omit any section of the floor, as being one
contiuous "sheet" tying all the various ribs & bulkheads together, they
essentially form box sections of every cavity- by omitting the section
under the flap motor housing you would remove this "box" from part of
the center tunnel- the rest of the flap motor housing appears to
contribute little strength to this area, particularly in shear across
the floor. It might be overkill, but I followed a suggestion from Tommy
Walker and removed the bottom flanges from the side panels and screwed
the bottoms of them to .063 angles riveted to the center floor section
(horizontal sides of angles pointing "in")- this allows a very nice fit
between the side and floor panels (as if anyone will ever notice! 8-) )
FWIW From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Jeff Orear wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> List:
>
> I am in the process of installing my electric flaps and have a question regarding
the housing covers, EF607's as they pertain to the center seat bottom panel.
>
> The center of the seat is obviously removable to gain access for inspection etc
of the elevator pushrod. Is it permissible to cut this panel where the lower
front bracket that attaches the EF 601 to the floor makes a bend to meet up
with the floor/EF601? The cover panels, EF607's, have a very wide flange on
them that will overlap the seat bottoms very nicely aft of where the EF601 attaches
without the need for the rear-most part of the center seat access panel.
Just seems like repetition here.
>
> What have all others done here?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> fuselage
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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