Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:10 AM - Re: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? (Jim Norman)
2. 04:43 AM - Re: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? (Dana Overall)
3. 05:14 AM - Mag Overhaul, was Starting Problems ()
4. 05:21 AM - Re: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? (Patrick Kelley)
5. 06:19 AM - Re: Cowl prep (Rick Jory)
6. 06:25 AM - Re: Mag Overhaul, was Starting Problems (Ross Scroggs)
7. 07:37 AM - Mag overhaul was starting problem (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
8. 08:43 AM - Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? (Elsa & Henry)
9. 10:07 AM - Re: Cowl prep ()
10. 10:43 AM - Re: Pre-drilled hole misalignment (HCRV6@aol.com)
11. 12:35 PM - Anywhere Map/Ipaq question (Dean Pichon)
12. 01:53 PM - SnF RV flyin a huge success (do not archive) (WALTER KERR)
13. 02:13 PM - RV7 to 7A conversion ()
14. 02:41 PM - Re: RV7 to 7A conversion (Kyle Boatright)
15. 03:38 PM - Re: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? (Dana Overall)
16. 04:02 PM - Bob Knuckoll's Fort Worth Seminar (Terry Watson)
17. 05:21 PM - Re: Mag Overhaul, was Starting Problems (Richard Scott)
18. 07:00 PM - Re: Anywhere Map/Ipaq question (Stan Blanton)
19. 07:12 PM - Re: Pre-drilled hole misalignment (Rick Galati)
20. 07:41 PM - Re; RV7 to 7A conversion (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
21. 08:37 PM - Skybolt's Skybeam + RV6/7/9 Requirements (Norman)
22. 09:07 PM - Re: Skybolt's Skybeam + RV6/7/9 Requirements (barry pote)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@InterMapSystems.com>
Essentially all planes will need these spacers. You do NOT want to force the
control horns together with the bolt.
Also, it is VERY common that one size longer bolt be used (I did), and that
is exactly what you should do. Finally, wheather you use several washers or
spacers made out of AL tubing does not matter. Its hard to get several
washers together at the same time to do this, but I did it by glueing them
together... you can use a combination of regular thickness as well as the
thin washers to get the propper thickness of spacer... But again, use
spacers as needed, and do NOT simply squeeze the control horns together.
jim
tampa
Going to the RV Flyin in Lakeland now!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: RV-List: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control
horns?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The plans call for using an AN3-10A to attach the aft elevator pushrod to
the control horns. That's way too short for my setup since my control horns
are spaced apart. An AN3-12A works fine, but there are obviously some gaps
in there that need to be filled. I'm curious what people generally feel is
most acceptable...aluminum tubing cut to fill the gaps, or washers as
required?
I haven't called Van's yet since it's about 10:45pm on Friday night...
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Dan,
For some reason the number three pops to mind. It seems to me, the aero
acceptable number of washers to space with is a max of three stacked.
Reason??, you got me.........course then again, this could be on ol A&P
tale. Like someone else said, I'm not an A&P I just play one with this RV
sometimes.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>, <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns?
>Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 22:46:06 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>The plans call for using an AN3-10A to attach the aft elevator pushrod to
>the control horns. That's way too short for my setup since my control
>horns
>are spaced apart. An AN3-12A works fine, but there are obviously some gaps
>in there that need to be filled. I'm curious what people generally feel is
>most acceptable...aluminum tubing cut to fill the gaps, or washers as
>required?
>
>I haven't called Van's yet since it's about 10:45pm on Friday night...
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Mag Overhaul, was Starting Problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sgesele@yahoo.com>
Thanks to all those who quickly offered advice on my
starting issues with an O-320. The overall opinion is
that I probably have a bad impulse coupler on the left
mag. Any suggestions on where to go from here? At
500 hours, these mags are at the time where Slick
wants them overhauled. I have the skills needed to
hang and install an engine, but have never opened up a
mag before. Any good overhaul manuals out there for a
Slick mag? Can I even overhaul this myself, does it
need to go to a rebuild shop, or should I just replace
it? Any experiences with a rebuild shop where I can
send these? On the same note, what book(s) should I
have in my library regarding the O-320 in general?
Thanks in advance,
Scott Gesele
N506RV
Message 4
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| Subject: | Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Three is the maximum under the nut to prevent bottoming on the threads.
If you still see shank after three washers, use a shorter bolt.
However, I know of no limitations for washers used as spacers between
parts. The craftsman in me says the fewer the better and that a single
spacer is a more elegant solution, but I'd want that spacer to be the
same material as the washers or else I'd still want thin washers bearing
at each end of my spacer. I seem to recall this is how it is called out
on the aileron hinges. Dan, plenty of time to worry about this before
your final assembly back there; for now washers should be fine.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - fuselage structure complete back to F-603
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control
horns?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Dan,
For some reason the number three pops to mind. It seems to me, the aero
acceptable number of washers to space with is a max of three stacked.
Reason??, you got me.........course then again, this could be on ol A&P
tale. Like someone else said, I'm not an A&P I just play one with this
RV
sometimes.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>, <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control
horns?
>Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 22:46:06 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>The plans call for using an AN3-10A to attach the aft elevator pushrod
to
>the control horns. That's way too short for my setup since my control
>horns
>are spaced apart. An AN3-12A works fine, but there are obviously some
gaps
>in there that need to be filled. I'm curious what people generally
feel is
>most acceptable...aluminum tubing cut to fill the gaps, or washers as
>required?
>
>I haven't called Van's yet since it's about 10:45pm on Friday night...
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
>http://www.rvproject.com
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
I'm flying before painting. There's some fiberglass stuff that is important
(on an 8A, for example, closing up the ends of the caps for the elevator,
rudder, V/S, H/S etc.). Gear fairings, gear pants can wait . . . per se,
however they are part of the weight & balance exercise. Re: cowl . . . I
had a few low spots that I filled with epoxy/microballoons and I also
touched up the rivet lines. The real work is left to be done, though. And
a reminder, K36 or K38 is great for filling the pin holes.
Rick Jory 8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl prep
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
>
> Ok, for those of you that flew before painting...
>
> How much work do you put into the cowl surfaces? I followed Van's
instructions to sand it down and brush with Acetone thinned epoxy, but after
2 coats it's not level that's for sure. Seems to me that if I'm not going to
paint right now that it's wasted effort to chase after surface perfection
and pinholes etc, RIGHT???
>
> - Andy Karmy
> RV9A Seattle WA
> Almost there...If I get past sanding fiberglass...
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Mag Overhaul, was Starting Problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Scroggs" <rscroggs@attbi.com>
Scott,
Not to be controversial, but I disagree that you have a bad impulse
coupling. The purpose of the impulse is to delay the firing of that mag
until the engine has reached about top dead center. During the starting
sequence, the engine is turning very slow. If the mag was to fire at the
time that the engine manufacture says to set it to, the cylinder would
ignite
during the compression stoke and the engine would kick back. This is
the reason that when an impulse coupling is installed we start on that
mag only. Most Lycomings require us to start them on the left mag.
The impulse coupling delays that firing until the cylinder is in a better
position to handle the firing of the plugs and to continue the momentum
of the turning engine.
I believe the problem you can have is the points have worn down to
the point that they are not opening at the "E" gap, the point where the
most power of the mag is released. I do agree with an earlier reply
that the coil could be bad as well. Slick has had some AD notes in the
past concerning these.
It sounds like your not really up to speed on how a mag works. Not
trying be negative but the mag is a critical part of the engine. I would
suggest you find a competent person, A&P,AI or friend,to assist you in
inspecting the mag, repairing it or just exchanging it. These are not
complicated but they have to be set correctly or they will not perform.
Pick up a Trade-a-Plane and you will find many companies that sell
the parts for the Slick and will offer exchange as well. Even Aircraft
Spruce offers both.
Good luck,
Ross Scroggs A&P
Conyers, GA.
770-929-8935
RV4 #3911 Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <sgesele@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mag Overhaul, was Starting Problems
> --> RV-List message posted by: <sgesele@yahoo.com>
>
> Thanks to all those who quickly offered advice on my
> starting issues with an O-320. The overall opinion is
> that I probably have a bad impulse coupler on the left
> mag. Any suggestions on where to go from here? At
> 500 hours, these mags are at the time where Slick
> wants them overhauled. I have the skills needed to
> hang and install an engine, but have never opened up a
> mag before. Any good overhaul manuals out there for a
> Slick mag? Can I even overhaul this myself, does it
> need to go to a rebuild shop, or should I just replace
> it? Any experiences with a rebuild shop where I can
> send these? On the same note, what book(s) should I
> have in my library regarding the O-320 in general?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Scott Gesele
> N506RV
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Mag overhaul was starting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I must add to the post about the impulse coupling only retarding the timing.
The impulse coupling holds the rotation until it releases by spring tension ,
and then spins the rotor at high speed to increase the spark for starting .
The spark will be very weak without the impulse coupling operating properly .
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 8
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| Subject: | Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Dan, I'm surprised that a AN-3 bolt is used there on the RV-7!--On the
RV-6(6A) a AN-4 size is used. I wouldn't use aluminum tubing to fill the
gap, instead a SS thick-walled tube could be used if your gap is too wide
beyond the thickness of three AN-960 washers
I didn't use any gap fillers, washers or whatever, on my installation and
for builders that are just starting to build their elevator skeletons, they
might be interested know what I did: After skinning the horizontal stab and
completing the elevator skeletons to the point of positioning the location
of the ball-joints plate-nuts and stiffener plates, I was curious to see
what kind of clearances I had between the out-board ends of the H-stab and
the elevator counter-balance arms frame ribs.
So I laid the H-stab and the elevator skeletons on a long table and
checked the clearances with a spacer the width of the elevator push-rod
ball-joint clamping the two control horns together. Turned out that there
was more than enough clearance if the H-stab skin overlap was filed a bit.
So what I did then was to mark where I had to drill the holes for the
elevator plate-nuts to match the brackets on the H-stab rear
spar-----Result: In final installation, the elevator push-rod ball-joint was
a perfect fit between the control horns. No gap fillers required!
Cheers!! Henry Hore, RV-6A C-GELS At Cornwall, Ontario
-> RV-List
message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> The plans call for using an AN3-10A to attach the aft elevator pushrod to
> the control horns. That's way too short for my setup since my control
horns
> are spaced apart. An AN3-12A works fine, but there are obviously some
gaps
> in there that need to be filled. I'm curious what people generally feel
is
> most acceptable...aluminum tubing cut to fill the gaps, or washers as
> required?
>
> I haven't called Van's yet since it's about 10:45pm on Friday night...
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Andy,
For minimal weight gain and a superior finish I highly recommend washing the
cowl (actually all fiberglass parts)with soap and water. Scrub with a soft
brush. This gets all of the release agents loose. Wipe down with alcohol and
let dry.
Now use a high fill, dark, sandable primer. A sprayer would work best but
you could use cans. After drying block sand as much as possible with 360 wet
and dry. I personally like to spray with Windex when sanding. Wipe off the
piece often. When completed pin holes, low areas and other defects will be
very visible. Now use a light weight filler and fill in as needed. For pin
holes and other defects simply apply with a finger. For larger areas use a
squeegee to get a smooth application and good transition. When dry sand the
areas with filler smooth and reshoot the primer. Repeat as necessary. It
faster to do than describe!!
This method is quick and the most effective for getting high quality glass
finishes with minimal work and most importantly, minimal weight gain.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Stellar Airpark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl prep
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
>
> Ok, for those of you that flew before painting...
>
> How much work do you put into the cowl surfaces? I followed Van's
instructions to sand it down and brush with Acetone thinned epoxy, but after
2 coats it's not level that's for sure. Seems to me that if I'm not going to
paint right now that it's wasted effort to chase after surface perfection
and pinholes etc, RIGHT???
>
> - Andy Karmy
> RV9A Seattle WA
> Almost there...If I get past sanding fiberglass...
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Pre-drilled hole misalignment |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 1/10/03 6:23:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gwevans@attbi.com writes:
<< One of the pre-drilled holes in one of my aileron gap fairings doesn't
line up with the hole in the rear spar. It's about 2/3 diameter out of whack.
>>
I've been able to fix this kind of thing on my non-predrilled -6 by carefully
filing (with a jewelers file) both holes until they align and are the correct
size for an OOPS rivet. These are the ones with 1/8th shank and 3/32nd
factory head. Good luck.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 11
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| Subject: | Anywhere Map/Ipaq question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon@msn.com>
I just purchased the Anywhere Map software and now need to buy an Ipaq to complete
the system. The Control Vision specifies the Ipaq 3950, but the 3955 is available
on the internet at similar prices to the 3950.
Have any Listers used the 3955 with the Anywhere Map? Are there any compatibility
issues?
Thanks for the help.
Dean Pichon
RV-4 (flying)
Message 12
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| Subject: | SnF RV flyin a huge success (do not archive) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
The SnF people once again did a great job of parking planes (54) RV's and 78 total
planes than attended the Fri and Sat event. Next year it will be on Sat and
Sun since we are starting to get folks from Michigan, NC, SC, AL and this presents
a problem to come on Fri is they are still working :>( instead of retired
:>).
Even though I have no interest at the minute in formation flying, Mike Stewart
held me and everyone else's attention for over an hour talking about the intricacies
of formation flying. There were lots of door prizes supplied by SnF and
Hawthorne FBO. Hawthorne was selling gas off the truck for $2. We will check
next year on this deal so that folks will plan on using them for fuel.
Jim Norman's new plane kinda of bowled everyone over with the panel, paint job,
and firewall forward details. Pretty amazing that an MD will find (make) time
to do this amazing plane.
We had "the Bandit", F-16 driver, who is ready to ship to the mideast conflict
any moment and his side kick F-15 driver in a beautiful 8 who is also in the go
mode. Glad they are ready, but hope we can find a way not to put them in harms
way.
22 planes overnited and most camped and enjoyed pizza Friday nite.
We will soon be posting the dates for next year and hope we can top 100 RV's next
year.
Fly Safe
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying ,9A rotary building
Message 13
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| Subject: | RV7 to 7A conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
Hello fellow builders.
I have decided to keep my RV7 kit and start building it. I am
thinking of converting it to the 7A. Anyone know what exactly is
required and whether I will need to remove any tail wheel stuff on my
RV7 QB kit?
Thanks,
Ned
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 to 7A conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
It has been done before (on -6's), and all you need to do with the tailwheel
stuff is leave out the spring. The messy part of the job on the RV-6 is
changing out some of the structure (particularly some gussets) on the
fuselage sides in the footwell area. This involves drilling out quite a few
rivets and fabricating & attaching larger gussets. I presume the RV-7 is
similar.
Obviously, you'll have to buy and mount the different landing gear.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <315@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 to 7A conversion
> --> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
> Hello fellow builders.
>
> I have decided to keep my RV7 kit and start building it. I am
> thinking of converting it to the 7A. Anyone know what exactly is
> required and whether I will need to remove any tail wheel stuff on my
> RV7 QB kit?
>
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Tubing spacers or washers between elevator control horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Henry, I agree totally with your process of achieving minimal clearance.
However, on the RV-7 the holes for the brackets and rod end bearings are
predrilled so your elevator sit horizontally where it sits. Alum spacers,
placed between washers, are dictated in the plans for filling in the gap on
the aileron brackets. I just finished installing my outboard bottom wing
skin so I'm looking for something else to work on other than wings for a
while. I'll pull my emp out tomorrow and see what's up with mine.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Bob Knuckoll's Fort Worth Seminar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bob Nuckolls has scheduled his weekend seminar on wiring airplanes at George
& Becki Orndorff's place near Ft. Worth, Texas for the weekend of March 22 &
23. If you are interested, go to
http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/Ft.Worth.html and have a look.
Terry
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Mag Overhaul, was Starting Problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Call:
Savage Magneto Service
2415 Radley Ct.,Ste 7
Hayward CA 94544
(510) 782-7081
They have a good reputation & are willing to talk to you without
automatically saying, "You better send it to us." Al has been in business
since 1951, so he should know what he is talking about.
Richard Scott
At 05:13 AM 1/11/03, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <sgesele@yahoo.com>
>
>Thanks to all those who quickly offered advice on my
>starting issues with an O-320. The overall opinion is
>that I probably have a bad impulse coupler on the left
>mag. Any suggestions on where to go from here? At
>500 hours, these mags are at the time where Slick
>wants them overhauled. I have the skills needed to
>hang and install an engine, but have never opened up a
>mag before. Any good overhaul manuals out there for a
>Slick mag? Can I even overhaul this myself, does it
>need to go to a rebuild shop, or should I just replace
>it? Any experiences with a rebuild shop where I can
>send these? On the same note, what book(s) should I
>have in my library regarding the O-320 in general?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Scott Gesele
>N506RV
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map/Ipaq question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Blanton" <stanb@door.net>
snip
>
> Have any Listers used the 3955 with the Anywhere Map? Are there any
compatibility issues?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4 (flying)
>
>
My understanding is the diference between the 3950 & 3055 is just packaging
and intended markets.
They seem to have the same specs.
Stan Blanton
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Pre-drilled hole misalignment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
I would suggest that your idea to use the misaligned hole as a drill
guide is sound.
The resultant elongated hole through the spar should be worked (with
pattern file) slightly to
break all sharp edges. Based upon a center to center rivet spacing of
1.8" (on my RV-6A gap fairings) I would fabricate an .032 aluminum
doubler approx. 2" long.
Center this doubler over the bad hole on the rear spar, lay out a .098 hole
on each end
of doubler maintaining .35-.40 e.d.. Doubler to be
installed on the forward surface of the
rear spar using two 1097AD3 rivets with the shop heads on the
rear surface
of the spar countersunk to maintain flushness. After doubler is
installed onto the rear spar,
drill the subject hole full size through aileron gap fairing.
Chip chase to remove all debris,
then install gap fairing normally with longer 470AD rivet to
accommodate increased thickness.
Rick Galati
Subject:
Pre-drilled hole
misalignment
From:
Geoff Evans (gwevans@attbi.com )
Date:
Fri Jan 10 - 6:22
PM
-- RV-List message posted by: "Geoff Evans" gwevans@attbi.com
One of the pre-drilled holes in one of my aileron gap fairings doesn't line up
with the hole in the rear spar. It's about 2/3 diameter out of whack.
I'd like to solve the problem without drilling more holes in the fairing/spar.
Can I use the misaligned hole in the fairing as a drill guide (thereby elongating
the hole in the spar and making it unsuitable to back a rivet) and put an
extra small piece of aluminum on the other side of the spar for the shop head
of the rivet to set against? Or is this a bad thing to do?
The other option is to drill a hole next to the misaligned one and put a rivet
in the good hole. Of course, this leaves a misaligned empty hole visible.
Thanks.
-Geoff Evans
RV-8 QB wings
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re; RV7 to 7A conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Don't you also have to change the engine mount ? The conventional gear goes
into the engine mount doesn't it?
Why mess up a good plane ????
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 21
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| Subject: | Skybolt's Skybeam + RV6/7/9 Requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
What exactly is Skybolt Fastner's new product called "SKYbeam"? Description please.
Also, Skybolt seems to offer a few dozen different kits. Which one do I need to
do a RV6/7/9 if I want to use the hinge on the horizontal and everything else
with 1/4 turn fastners? (re: Jim Norman?)
Thanks if you can help.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
This should go in the archives when answered but for now,
Do not archive questions
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Skybolt's Skybeam + RV6/7/9 Requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: barry pote <barrypote@comcast.net>
Order the 'Firewall kit' for every thing around the firewall.
The 'Beam' kit is sort of a fiberglass strip with tiny tubes (I am told)
that you glue (fiberglass) inside something such as a cowling , to make
it stiffer. I think it might stop oil canning, too. I ordered some this
week.
Barry RV 9a
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