Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:01 AM - Re: Voltage Drop (Thomas McCausland)
2. 07:11 AM - wingtip differences (Frazier, Vincent A)
3. 08:29 AM - Re: [Fw: AeroElectric-List: Lancair BMA Flight Testing] (EFIS info) (C. Rabaut)
4. 08:32 AM - Re: Voltage Drop (Dave Bristol)
5. 08:42 AM - Re: Re: Re: Misc Questions...liquid shim (Elsa & Henry)
6. 08:55 AM - test (John)
7. 09:14 AM - Old Lowrance GPS wanted (John)
8. 09:54 AM - Re: RV8 wingtips (Ross Schlotthauer)
9. 10:00 AM - Voltage Drop (Wheeler North)
10. 10:10 AM - Re: Voltage Drop (kempthornes)
11. 10:13 AM - Re: RV8 wingtips (Rick Jory)
12. 10:23 AM - Re: wingtip differences (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
13. 11:04 AM - Re: RV8 wingtips (JRWillJR@aol.com)
14. 11:26 AM - Re: Two color painting (RV4)
15. 03:10 PM - Re: Odyssey Battery (Will Cretsinger)
16. 05:56 PM - 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos ()
17. 06:12 PM - Temper Foam on the Cheap (Donald Mei)
18. 06:12 PM - Fw: Forward to RV list. (Donald Mei)
19. 06:29 PM - LED cockpit lights (Doug Weiler)
20. 06:48 PM - Re: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos (Karie Daniel)
21. 07:28 PM - Re: LED cockpit lights (Dave Bristol)
22. 07:33 PM - Re: Fw: Forward to RV list. (Cy Galley)
23. 08:53 PM - Re: LED cockpit lights (Larry Bowen)
24. 09:14 PM - Re: LED cockpit lights (Vanremog@aol.com)
25. 10:09 PM - Clamp for nose strut fairing (Gary)
26. 10:23 PM - Clamps for nose strut fairing (Gary)
27. 10:46 PM - Re: Voltage Drop long (Meketa)
28. 11:05 PM - AFP install kit...no AN826-6D? (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Drop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Thomas McCausland" <acceltek@acceltekservice.com>
Date sent: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 19:45:11 -0800
From: Mark and Sabina Gilbert <msgilbert@attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Voltage Drop
Send reply to: rv-list@matronics.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark and Sabina Gilbert <msgilbert@attbi.com>
>
> RV Listers,
>
> Could someone explain voltage drop to me. I'm not sure I really understand
> the concept. I know how to calculate it, and how to measure it with a
> voltage meter (at least I think I do), but I'm not sure I get it. For
> example, in a simple series circuit with a 12 Volt battery and one-3 ohm
> device and one-1 ohm device, Ohms law tells me that 3 amps run through the
> circuit (assuming no resistance in the battery or in the wire connecting
> the devices), and that the 3 ohm device has a 9 volt-voltage drop across
> it, and the 1 ohm device has a 3 volt-voltage drop across it. Does that
> mean 9 volts are consumed/used by the 3ohm device and 3 volts are
> consumed/used by the 1 ohm device, or what? I've read the textbook
> explanation that tells me voltage drop is the difference in voltage across
> two points, but what does that really mean or tell me?
>
> Thanks in advance. I'm sure I'm trying to hard.
>
> Mark
> RV6A, left wing
>
You pretty much have it Mark.
Ohms law says (and forgive me for repeating the stuff you already
know).. I = current in amps, E = Voltage in volts, R = Resistance in
ohms
I = E/R (voltage divided by resistance)
E = I x R
So 12 volts thru a total series resistance of 4 ohms = 3 amps
Now that you have the current you can solve for the individual
voltage drops across each resistor.
E (or voltage drop) across the 3 ohm will be 3 ohms times 3 amps
= 9 volt drop.
Voltage drop across the 1 ohm will be 3 amps times 1 ohm = 3
volts.
Notice all the voltage drops add up to your orianal 12 volts.
This is Kirchhoff's law at work. See:
http://www.sciencejoywagon.com/physicszone/lesson/07electr/kirc
hoff/seclaw.htm
I think of voltage drops and resistors with the water or garden hose
theory (garden hose electronics)
The Pump, or battery is putting out 12 volts of pressure.
Because of all the restrictions in the line (smaller pipes ...ie the
resistors), the pump can pump 3 amps of current (the flow) at that
pressure.
The pressure drop across each smaller pipe / resistor can be
figured out with ohms law.
In practical terms if you used the negative post of the battery as
your ground reference, had the 3 ohm resistor off the positive post
and the 1 ohm next with it returned to 'ground' you would have this:
12v battery 3 ohm 1 ohm
I-----I'I'I'I'I ---------XXXXX--------------------XXXXX----I
I (-) (+) I
Sorry if the Ascii art doesn't come out.
A meter measuring from 'ground' or the minus post to the postive
post of the battery will read 12 volts.
From 'ground' to the far end of the 3 ohm will read 3 volts (you
dropped 9 volts across the 3 ohms)
From ground to the end of the 1 ohm will read zero volts..(you
dropped the last 3 volts across the one ohm).
From a MORE practical view..
Your 1 ohm resistor is a landing light that requires 3 volts.
(they were availible real cheap as surplus from aircraft spruce..you
couldn't resist and purchased a 25 year supply)
You have a 12 volt system in your RV..whatcha gonna do?
(yeah I know...typical bulb filiments dont keep a constant
resistance when they heat up...hey..this is my story and I'm
sticking to it)
Solution - you stick a 3 ohm resistor in series with it before the
battery. You now have 3 volts going to your bulb.
Replacement tail parts for RV7A arriving tommorw.
Tom McCausland
PPASEL
N1576J PA-28-140
Message 2
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| Subject: | wingtip differences |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
A local HRII pilot switched from the old flattop wingtips to the new ones and lost
a mph or so.
Not much, but I suppose it's enough for some folks to worry about. Here's the
condensed data:
Results were: old Van tips=219.625 mph. After the change to the new "speed tips"
=218.25.
Vince in Indiana
F-1H Rocket with sheared tips under construction
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: AeroElectric-List: Lancair BMA Flight Testing] (EFIS |
info)
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Charlie,
Thanks for the update on the BMA system... there's obviously great hope
for this set up. Maybe I'll start saving my money.
Chuck
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Drop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
You've got it right Mark but I think what's confusing you is that Volts are not
"consumables" - you don't use them up. Volts are only a measurement of
"pressure" like ohm is a measure of resistance, in an ideal circuit they don't
change, but amps on the other hand are a measurement of flow, of something being
"consumed" or work being done.
Hope that doesn't confuse you more!
Dave
Mark and Sabina Gilbert wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark and Sabina Gilbert <msgilbert@attbi.com>
>
> RV Listers,
>
> Could someone explain voltage drop to me. I'm not sure I really understand
> the concept. I know how to calculate it, and how to measure it with a
> voltage meter (at least I think I do), but I'm not sure I get it. For
> example, in a simple series circuit with a 12 Volt battery and one-3 ohm
> device and one-1 ohm device, Ohms law tells me that 3 amps run through the
> circuit (assuming no resistance in the battery or in the wire connecting
> the devices), and that the 3 ohm device has a 9 volt-voltage drop across
> it, and the 1 ohm device has a 3 volt-voltage drop across it. Does that
> mean 9 volts are consumed/used by the 3ohm device and 3 volts are
> consumed/used by the 1 ohm device, or what? I've read the textbook
> explanation that tells me voltage drop is the difference in voltage across
> two points, but what does that really mean or tell me?
>
> Thanks in advance. I'm sure I'm trying to hard.
>
> Mark
> RV6A, left wing
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Re: Misc Questions...liquid shim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
The cowl hinge installation using the liquid shim idea is basically what I
did on my cowl, but my "shim" was a very fine polyester netting (like a
Bride's veil) cut in strips and coated with West resin mixed to a ketchup
consistency with cotton flock and the slow hardener. I had previously fitted
the hinges and drilled all the rivet holes, (but not countersinked) with the
cowl halves in situ. The hinges were drilled with 3/16" holes between the
rivet holes to allow excess epoxy to weep out and provide a firmer bond.
With the cowl and hinge bonding surfaces roughed-up, the "shim" was applied
and the hinges cleco'd in place. Both cowl halves were done and then
installed over the engine with the hinge pins in place and left undisturbed
for about 4 hours after which the clecos were removed. Then I left the
set-up undisturbed for two more days to let the epoxy cure.
After re-drilling the rivet holes (to remove epoxy seepage), they were
countersinked. Then, and only then were the rivets set. The hinge pins came
out easily to do this and after riveting, I could re-insert the hinges in
easily with my fingers after the rivets were installed.
All of the above was detailed in a letter to Van's and it was published in
the 3rd issue, 1999, of the RVator. Following my original List postings on
cowl hinges on 11/13 and 11/14/02, I have complied to 46 request for copies
of the article.---Have not yet received any comments from receivers. Any
results?? Reply off-list.
Cheers!!-------Henry Hore
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Test...I've had problems posting...disregard this
DO NOT ARCHIVE
jwf
Message 7
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| Subject: | Old Lowrance GPS wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I want to buy an original Lowarance Air Map (not the current 100 or 300
model) if the price is really 'cheap' -- if you have one you have
replaced with a later model let me take it off your hands... I have it
rigged for NavAid control and would like a 'back-up' unit just in case.
Thanks - John at Salida, CO
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 wingtips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
I would say that the RV list is about half old dog!
In general the list probably averages people that are
half way done with their planes. Most people are open
minded about things they have not done or bought but
once they have bought, used, built, or owned something
they become loyal to that product or process (myself
included). Therefore someone who has used something
extensively, be it sheared wing tips, navaid wing
levelers, or tricycle gear, is more than likely going
to be reluctant to change. The very open minded
person who quickly adopts the new is more the
exception than the rule. Though I don't know him
personally, If Mr. Seager has over 5500 hours in RV's
he must be very happy with them just the way they are.
--- LeastDrag93066@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by:
> LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
> I sure hope you aren't saying the RV-list is an old
> dog.
>
> In a message dated 01/15/2003 3:27:26 PM Pacific
> Standard Time,
> rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer
> <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
> >
> > you can't teach an old dog new tricks!
> >
> >
> > --- Rick Jory <rickjory@msn.com> wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory"
> > > <rickjory@msn.com>
> > >
> > > I asked Mike Seager when doing my transition
> > > training about the two
> > > different tip offerings. Mike flies all of the
> > > factory ships, including the
> > > 6 and 6A. He's flown with both tips, and
> suggested
> > > the "old style" is
> > > actually "a bit better". I don't think there's
> any
> > > noticeable difference .
> > > . . it's probably builder preference. I just
> > > thought it was interesting
> > > that he liked the old style.
> > > do not archive
> > > Rick Jory RV8A, old tips
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <LeastDrag93066@aol.com>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 wingtips
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by:
> > > LeastDrag93066@aol.com
> > > >
> > > > Hi All,
> > > >
> > > > I asked, when I was at the factory, about the
> > > difference in the "old"
> > > style
> > > > wingtip, and the "new" style wingtip. I was
> told
> > > it was only an
> > > appearance
> > > > change. No change in performance.
> > > >
> > > > As a Subtle Observation:
> > > > If you want the "new" appearance and a
> "couple"
> > > miles per hour at each end
> > > of
> > > > the airspeed envelope, you'll need to get the
> "Hot
> > > Tips" from Massey
> > > Aircraft
> > > > Service. That is, if you don't sand the
> "sharp"
> > > edge off the outer edge
> > > of
> > > > the wingtip.
> > > > If you want a nice rounded edges on the end of
> the
> > > wingtip and don't care
> > > > about performance improvements, just buy Van's
> > > wingtip.
> > > >
> > > > Jim Ayers
> > > > Less Drag Products, Inc.
> > > > (Standard disclaimer c##p about not being
> > > affiliated with Massey Aircraft
> > > > Service or Van's Aircraft)
> > > >
> > > > P.S. look in the yeller pages for Massey
> Aircraft
> > > Service.
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
The V-drop loss is in the form of power as released heat energy, or light if
its really bad.
All electrical units are rated in units of power. An unsloiticed V-drop is
very much like a carbon resistor. Put less resistance in the rest of the
circuit or more voltage on the circuit and the V-Drop will get hotter as
more current flows. Exceed the power capacity (ability to reject heat) of
the resistor or V-Drop and it will produce light for a short period.
On another note, I've been off list for a few months as my father got very
ill and passed away just before Christmas. Been a bitch as they say.
But he made it as a successful pilot for 35 years. Broke the airplane a few
times, even wore one out, but he never crashed into anything and walked away
from every landing.
And he was the reason I now make a living talking about airplanes, while
spending my free time playing with airplanes.
So, here's to fathers all throughout space
You took us to the sky with glorious grace
You taught us how to cheer and chase
the joys of life above the rat race
You did it with integrity
From airport to airport, city to city
And when you came down with a soft hand
you always had a good place to land
As we go up yonder, you're there to help us ponder
Is he still with us, up here on high
with the little white clouds, we toast to you good bye
Thanks Pops
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Drop |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 07:45 PM 1/15/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mark and Sabina Gilbert <msgilbert@attbi.com>
>
>RV Listers,
>
>Could someone explain voltage drop to me. .................. Does that
>mean 9 volts are consumed/used by the 3ohm device and 3 volts are
The word 'consumed' really does not fit in with discussions of volts or
amps. Where it fits the closest is watts. When you buy electricity off
the power grid, for example, you are not billed on either voltage drop or
ampere capacity at the service entrance but on watts consumed. (Industries
are billed also on peak demand but as I recall, that is also measured in
watts.)
The electricity laws and their words and equations have to be used with
caution if confusion is to be avoided. It is a bit like asking where the
light goes when you flip the switch to off. There are words that don't go
together.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 wingtips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
So true, so true . . . especially since I believe Seager owns a Mooney? but
spends tons of times in a Van's creation.
do not archive
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 wingtips
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer
<rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
>
> I would say that the RV list is about half old dog!
> In general the list probably averages people that are
> half way done with their planes. Most people are open
> minded about things they have not done or bought but
> once they have bought, used, built, or owned something
> they become loyal to that product or process (myself
> included). Therefore someone who has used something
> extensively, be it sheared wing tips, navaid wing
> levelers, or tricycle gear, is more than likely going
> to be reluctant to change. The very open minded
> person who quickly adopts the new is more the
> exception than the rule. Though I don't know him
> personally, If Mr. Seager has over 5500 hours in RV's
> he must be very happy with them just the way they are.
>
>
> --- LeastDrag93066@aol.com wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by:
> > LeastDrag93066@aol.com
> >
> > I sure hope you aren't saying the RV-list is an old
> > dog.
> >
> > In a message dated 01/15/2003 3:27:26 PM Pacific
> > Standard Time,
> > rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com writes:
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer
> > <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > > you can't teach an old dog new tricks!
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Rick Jory <rickjory@msn.com> wrote:
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory"
> > > > <rickjory@msn.com>
> > > >
> > > > I asked Mike Seager when doing my transition
> > > > training about the two
> > > > different tip offerings. Mike flies all of the
> > > > factory ships, including the
> > > > 6 and 6A. He's flown with both tips, and
> > suggested
> > > > the "old style" is
> > > > actually "a bit better". I don't think there's
> > any
> > > > noticeable difference .
> > > > . . it's probably builder preference. I just
> > > > thought it was interesting
> > > > that he liked the old style.
> > > > do not archive
> > > > Rick Jory RV8A, old tips
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: <LeastDrag93066@aol.com>
> > > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 wingtips
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > --> RV-List message posted by:
> > > > LeastDrag93066@aol.com
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi All,
> > > > >
> > > > > I asked, when I was at the factory, about the
> > > > difference in the "old"
> > > > style
> > > > > wingtip, and the "new" style wingtip. I was
> > told
> > > > it was only an
> > > > appearance
> > > > > change. No change in performance.
> > > > >
> > > > > As a Subtle Observation:
> > > > > If you want the "new" appearance and a
> > "couple"
> > > > miles per hour at each end
> > > > of
> > > > > the airspeed envelope, you'll need to get the
> > "Hot
> > > > Tips" from Massey
> > > > Aircraft
> > > > > Service. That is, if you don't sand the
> > "sharp"
> > > > edge off the outer edge
> > > > of
> > > > > the wingtip.
> > > > > If you want a nice rounded edges on the end of
> > the
> > > > wingtip and don't care
> > > > > about performance improvements, just buy Van's
> > > > wingtip.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim Ayers
> > > > > Less Drag Products, Inc.
> > > > > (Standard disclaimer c##p about not being
> > > > affiliated with Massey Aircraft
> > > > > Service or Van's Aircraft)
> > > > >
> > > > > P.S. look in the yeller pages for Massey
> > Aircraft
> > > > Service.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > latest messages.
> > List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: wingtip differences |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 01/16/2003 7:15:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
VFrazier@usi.edu writes:
> A local HRII pilot switched from the old flattop wingtips to the new ones
> and lost a mph or so.
>
Who's "new" ones? Van's, Mark Fredrick, ?
Jim Ayers
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 wingtips |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
I am going with the old style flat top tips with my RV7A. I like the way they
look better, I already have bought strobes previously that will work better
with them, I like the way they look better and--and I suspect they may have
slightly better performance, speed, roll etc and even if they don't I still
like them better. Do Not Archive. JR
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Two color painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ@btinternet.com>
Hi Dana,
apply one coat over the other, but remove masking tape directly after
painting. This way the ridge will disappear.
Marcel de Ruiter
De Ruiter aircraft Painting Ltd
RV4/G-RVMJ
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger@ticnet.com>
I just ordered from batteries4everything but they had to special order
the PC680 and said it may take a "few weeks". Their price seems the
best even with $13 S&H to Texas.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
Do not archive
Ed_Cole@maximhq.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ed_Cole@maximhq.com
>
> Listers,
> A fellow builder is looking for the best price on an Odyssey PC680 battery.
> I had purchased one last summer for $98 with free shipping from Batteries
> Unlimited.
> Does anyone else know of a better deal or dealer?
> Also, where can you find the terminal adapters?
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
>
> Maxim Home Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com
> Products Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> New Products:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> Datasheets:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> The information contained in this message is confidential
> and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
>
> A couple of questions from a newbie builder:
>
> 1) What are the specific documentation requirements to satisfy the 51% rule?
I would like to do a website. On inspection do people a) refer the DAR to the
website, b) print out copies and give them to inspector, or c) keep a separate
"manual" journal. For those that get by with just the website...how often do
the DARs like to see progress pictures?
>
> 2) I am just starting the building process, and the harsh reality that my life
will be dependant on the integrity of this structure is starting to sink in.
Does anyone have one or two of the used Orndorff videos for sale or rent? Not
having riveted anything before, I think it might make sense to get some perspective.
>
> THanks,
> Scott
> RV7A Emp
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Temper Foam on the Cheap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
I was able to acquire through a closeout a mattress pad made out of temper
foam. The pad is about 1 1/2 inches thick. I will be cutting it up to use
in my RV and would like to offer leftover pieces to others on the list. I
don't know what shipping will cost, but would like to offer a piece large
enough for top layer of an RV seat for $15 + shipping. This price may go
down. I'm just looking to defray my cost. When I receive it and figure out
how many pieces I can get, I may lower the price if I can get more pieces
out of it. If you have an interest let me know off list.
Don Mei
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Fwd: Forward to RV list. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
I was able to acquire through a closeout a mattress pad made out of temper
foam. The pad is about 1 1/2 inches thick. I will be cutting it up to use
in my RV and would like to offer leftover pieces to others on the list. I
don't know what shipping will cost, but would like to offer a piece large
enough for top layer of an RV seat for $15 + shipping. This price may go
down. I'm just looking to defray my cost. When I receive it and figure out
how many pieces I can get, I may lower the price if I can get more pieces
out of it. If you have an interest let me know off list.
Don Mei
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | LED cockpit lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Fellow Listers:
One of our local builders is looking for a couple of those red LED cockpit
spotlights that Van's used to sell. They are no longer in production I
found out, but he sure would like to buy a couple.
Anyone have any???
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karied4@attbi.com>
Regarding the Orndorff videos. I bought them after getting my empennage kit
and still didn't feel good about jumping right into the project. I took the
2 or 3 day RV builders class in Oregon came home and felt great about what I
was doing.
The videos give you a good idea of what to expect but getting hands on in a
class will be the biggest benefit. Good luck!
Karie Daniel
RV-7A Empennage (coming along nicely) QB kit to be delivered in March.
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All,
> >
> > A couple of questions from a newbie builder:
> >
> > 1) What are the specific documentation requirements to satisfy the 51%
rule? I would like to do a website. On inspection do people a) refer the DAR
to the website, b) print out copies and give them to inspector, or c) keep a
separate "manual" journal. For those that get by with just the website...how
often do the DARs like to see progress pictures?
> >
> > 2) I am just starting the building process, and the harsh reality that
my life will be dependant on the integrity of this structure is starting to
sink in. Does anyone have one or two of the used Orndorff videos for sale or
rent? Not having riveted anything before, I think it might make sense to get
some perspective.
> >
> > THanks,
> > Scott
> > RV7A Emp
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: LED cockpit lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Doug,
If you're talking about the "LC ECL-01 Eyeball cockpit lights" they are not
red nor LED, they are white incandescent lights and you can't have mine I love
'em!
Dave
Doug Weiler wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> One of our local builders is looking for a couple of those red LED cockpit
> spotlights that Van's used to sell. They are no longer in production I
> found out, but he sure would like to buy a couple.
>
> Anyone have any???
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Forward to RV list. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I would like a piece but I'll have to get the dimensions. Actually need one
piece to go across both seats.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
We support Aeroncas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: Forward to RV list.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
>
> I was able to acquire through a closeout a mattress pad made out of temper
> foam. The pad is about 1 1/2 inches thick. I will be cutting it up to
use
> in my RV and would like to offer leftover pieces to others on the list. I
> don't know what shipping will cost, but would like to offer a piece large
> enough for top layer of an RV seat for $15 + shipping. This price may go
> down. I'm just looking to defray my cost. When I receive it and figure
out
> how many pieces I can get, I may lower the price if I can get more pieces
> out of it. If you have an interest let me know off list.
>
> Don Mei
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | LED cockpit lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
So would I! Let me know if you find any.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003: The year of flight!
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Weiler
> Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 9:27 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: LED cockpit lights
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> One of our local builders is looking for a couple of those
> red LED cockpit spotlights that Van's used to sell. They are
> no longer in production I found out, but he sure would like
> to buy a couple.
>
> Anyone have any???
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: LED cockpit lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/16/2003 6:32:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dougweil@pressenter.com writes:
> One of our local builders is looking for a couple of those red LED cockpit
> spotlights that Van's used to sell. They are no longer in production I
> found out, but he sure would like to buy a couple.
>
> Anyone have any?
I would instead recommend the incandescent eyeball lights that Van's, ACS and
Wicks still sell. ACS P/N 11-07800 and Wicks P/N MOD-1. Mount them in the
canopy deck side rails.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 586hrs)
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Clamp for nose strut fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Andy,
Yeah, mine is done........except for finding the specified 3/8 inch wide hose clamp.
I was just going to post a message on the list about this, to see what
solutions people had.
The problem is not the pant.....it is the clamp. The deal is, the only hose clamps
I can find in a big enough size to go around the nose strut and fairing are
all 1/2 inch wide. Vans calls out a 3/8 inch wide clamp. I called Van's
on this, after searching all the hardware stores, and the aircraft supply catalogs.
The only place I have not checked is McMaster-Carr.
Van's didn't have an answer, other than what I'd already tried. He said it shouldn't
be a problem to find narrow hose clamps. I said, fine, you guys find them,
and include them in the kit.
Bottom line is, the pant and fairing fit fine, we just need a clamp that is narrow
enough and has a small enough worm drive so it won't hit the inside of the
front of the nose pant when the gear pivots.
I'll post this to the two lists and see what we stir up.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Karmy
To: rv9er@3rivers.net
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 4:05 PM
Subject: Nose wheel pant?
Hey Gary,
I'm having a hard time getting the nosewheel pant to work out. Have you fit that
part yet? I finished mounting the pant and everything was fine until I tried
to install the nose gear leg fairing. Seems the hoseclamp at the bottom is
too high (when pressed all the way down) so it apears that I got the pant mounted
too low (by about 3/16") so now I can't hide the clamp inside the pant...
Did yours work out, or have you done it yet?
- Andy
---
Version: 6.0.431 / Virus Database: 242 - Release Date: 12/22/02
Message 26
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| Subject: | Clamps for nose strut fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Andy......looks like McMaster Carr can help us out. They have 5/16 inch wide
stainless hose clamps all the way up past 2 inches. The 1 1/4 inch size is around
$5 for a package of ten.
Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search for hose clamps, worm drive.
Gary
---
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Drop long |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
Hello Yall,
The best way to check for excess resistance in a 12 volt DC electrical
system
is by using voltage drop.
The description of different ohm devices is not a realistic way to describe
a
standard circuit in our aircraft. All load circuits in an RV are parallel
and not
in series. One can describe a system with multiple switches, wires,
terminals,
etc. to be in series, but for this discussion lets just pretend that if
there is only
one load device in a leg of a parrallel circuit that the voltage at the load
device
(bulb, starter, pitot heater, etc.) would be the same as the voltage supply
(alternator/battery). Did you get that?
A simple circuit example would be a battery with the negative connected to
the
airframe, a wire coming from the positive terminal with a switch feeding a
bulb
with the other bulb wire connected to the airframe. If the voltage at the
bulb is
less than at the battery the loss can be found by checking the voltage
across
each component to find the source of the loss. The leads of the voltmeter
would
be put on the two switch terminals to test the switch. They would be put on
the
battery positive terminal and supply terminal at the switch to check the
power
supply wire, etc. Adding up all the individual losses will equal the total
loss at
the bulb.
In reality we NEVER have the same voltage at the bulb as at the battery.
EVERY connection, length of wire, switch, bulb, socket, etc. has a certain
amount of resistence. We are normally not concerned with the amount of drop.
If the system has properly sized wire, properly sized quality switches,
quality
terminals with proper crimps, etc. there will be very little drop in the
circuit to
measure.
Now, when should we be concerned about drop and how do we measure it? I
will give several examples that I have come across.
1. I have a friend who had a high dollar 550 conversion done on his
Cessna185.
From day one he had cranking problems with the engine and it
progressively
got worse. All cables were replaced, the new lightweight starter was
swapped for a stock unit and a new battery was installed with no
improvement. He then had the P leads melt up to the ignition switch and
was
installing a new switch when I heard about all the problems. I first
checked
voltage across the battery when cranking. It was 12.6 idle and about
11.0
when attempting to crank. I then checked voltage at the starter housing
and
starter cable lead while cranking. It was less than 6.0 volts. No doubt
a drop
somewhere. I then ran the meter across each component and had 5 volts
between the engine mount ground strap and the mount itself when
cranking.
It turned out that the engine builder had powder coated the mount and
not
cleaned the area where the strap contacted the mount under the rubber.
The P lead shields had been a lower resistance source for the ground
along
with the engine control cables which showed signs of heat. This should
have
been a clue to the problem. Instead of pulling the engine from the
mount, a
cable was run from negative cable at the mount to the engine case. My
wife
and I recieved a nice steak dinner for that one.
2. Another friends 63 Corvette had severe cranking problems when hot. A
voltage drop test found all the battery cables had high amounts of
voltage
loss when crankling. A master battery cable disconnect was installed
under
the seat and the longer cables were fabricated with fine strand welding
cable.
He had a hard time believing my diagnosis, but replaced the cables
anyway.
Problem solved. He used the same style welding cable and the problem
reoccured again a year later. He now has standard automotive battery
cable
with no further problems. This friend builds custom cars for a living
and now
uses only auto type battery cable. We never figured out the real
problem with
the cables, it was not the terminal connections, but in the cable
itself.
Possible internal oxidation of some type.
When measured in a standard low amperage circuit the drop will be in the
millivolt
range and can easily be a volt or more in the starter circuit. Also, drops
are always
measured with the circuit active and mean nothing when not. The only time I
check
it is when looking for a problem.
Hope this helps.
George Meketa
ASE Master Automotive Tech.
RV8, 237 hours
> RV Listers,
>
> Could someone explain voltage drop to me. I'm not sure I really
understand
> the concept. I know how to calculate it, and how to measure it with a
> voltage meter (at least I think I do), but I'm not sure I get it. For
> example, in a simple series circuit with a 12 Volt battery and one-3 ohm
> device and one-1 ohm device, Ohms law tells me that 3 amps run through the
> circuit (assuming no resistance in the battery or in the wire connecting
> the devices), and that the 3 ohm device has a 9 volt-voltage drop across
> it, and the 1 ohm device has a 3 volt-voltage drop across it. Does that
> mean 9 volts are consumed/used by the 3ohm device and 3 volts are
> consumed/used by the 1 ohm device, or what? I've read the textbook
> explanation that tells me voltage drop is the difference in voltage across
> two points, but what does that really mean or tell me?
>
> Thanks in advance. I'm sure I'm trying to hard.
>
> Mark
> RV6A, left wing
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | AFP install kit...no AN826-6D? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Hm...been working on the Airflow Performance high-pressure fuel pump
installation, and I realized that the kit requires an AN826-6D tee fitting
from the selector, tees into the filter and pump bypass. But it appears
that the install kit came with everything BUT this fitting. Strange. I'm
going to ask Van's if that was inadvertent or whether it's up to the builder
to come up with that one fitting.
Anyway, heads-up...save yourself time/shipping and order an AN826-6D when
you get the pump & install kit!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
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