Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:26 AM - Re: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos (Dana Overall)
2. 05:00 AM - Re: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos (WALTER KERR)
3. 05:44 AM - Re: LED cockpit lights (willfly)
4. 06:12 AM - BMA Pricing (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
5. 06:50 AM - Re: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos (Rick Jory)
6. 07:03 AM - Re: wingtip differences (Tracy Crook)
7. 07:10 AM - Re: [Fw: AeroElectric-List: Lancair BMA Flight Testing] (EFIS info) (Tracy Crook)
8. 08:14 AM - Fuel Lube (sjhdcl@kingston.net)
9. 08:21 AM - Re RV List: Red LED cockpit lights (Elsa & Henry)
10. 08:46 AM - Fw: BMA Pricing (C. Rabaut)
11. 08:54 AM - Re: Fuel Lube (Larry Pardue)
12. 09:16 AM - Re: Fuel Lube (Thomas McCausland)
13. 09:22 AM - Re:RV-List; wingtip differences (Robert Adams)
14. 09:26 AM - Re: Fuel Lube (Dan Checkoway)
15. 10:00 AM - Static Air Kits (MARTIN EMRATH)
16. 10:46 AM - Re: Static Air Kits (Todd Wenzel)
17. 11:00 AM - Re: Fuel Lube (Bobby Hester)
18. 11:05 AM - Restrictions on the Use of Experimental Aircraft (Willke, Theodore L)
19. 11:14 AM - Pitot hole in wing (Brad Benson)
20. 11:15 AM - Re: Clamp for nose strut fairing (czechsix@juno.com)
21. 11:33 AM - Leaky Fuel Caps (Rob Miller)
22. 11:46 AM - Re: Leaky Fuel Caps (Lenleg@aol.com)
23. 11:53 AM - Taylor Pneumatic Tools (Bert Penney)
24. 11:56 AM - Led lights in the plane (Chris)
25. 12:06 PM - Re: Taylor Pneumatic Tools (Brad Benson)
26. 12:23 PM - Re: Pitot hole in wing (Konrad Werner)
27. 12:53 PM - Re: Pitot hole in win (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
28. 01:16 PM - BMA pricing (DALE HARVEY)
29. 01:19 PM - Re: AFP install kit...no AN826-6D? (Dan Checkoway)
30. 01:25 PM - Re: Leaky Fuel Caps (Stein Bruch)
31. 02:31 PM - Need Sensenich prop spacer for 0-360 (HCRV6@aol.com)
32. 03:47 PM - Re: Led lights in the plane (Elsa & Henry)
33. 04:31 PM - Re: Pitot hole in wing (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
34. 04:48 PM - Re:upholstery ? (WPAerial@aol.com)
35. 05:19 PM - CS vs. Fixed pitch O-360? (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
36. 05:54 PM - Re: Leaky Fuel Caps (Robert Hasson)
37. 06:42 PM - Re: Need Sensenich prop spacer for 0-360 (Sam Buchanan)
38. 07:16 PM - Re: Leaky Fuel Caps (Alex Peterson)
39. 07:54 PM - Re: Clamp for nose strut fairing (Tim Lewis)
40. 08:22 PM - Re: Need Sensenich prop spacer for 0-360 (kempthornes)
41. 09:08 PM - Re: Led lights in the plane (Randall Henderson)
42. 09:13 PM - Re: Led lights in the plane (Jeff Bertsch)
43. 09:17 PM - Re: Fuel Lube (Randall Henderson)
44. 09:31 PM - Re: Pitot hole in wing (Meketa)
45. 09:32 PM - Re: Led lights in the plane (Garth Shearing)
46. 09:49 PM - 4 into one exhaust (RV6 Flyer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Scott,
The tapes still show marking the center lines of all ribs to drill and the
use of jig techniques that are no longer used on the pre punched kits. With
that said, just watching does give you an idea how things go together and
some little hints. Check some various 7 websites and it will become
painfully obvious that achieving superior results on these new kits is
doable.
You have plenty of extra rivets and extra alum. stock material included in
your 7 emp kit. Take these and rivet to your hearts content. You will find
out quickly the learning curve is very fast. Drill a couple of your
practice rivets out, make some oops rivets by squeezing down a couple longer
rivets, to make them shorter and fatter, and practice some more. I don't
mean to make your task sound like making a peanut butter and jelly snack but
it is very, very doable.
I'd recommend you start with the VS first as it is by far the easiest of the
emp structures to build and will involve all techniques required for you to
complete the emp.
As for the DAR, you gotta have something to give to them. I use Kitlog Pro
and my website.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos
>Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 20:54:40 -0500 (EST)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All,
> >
> > A couple of questions from a newbie builder:
> >
> > 1) What are the specific documentation requirements to satisfy the 51%
>rule? I would like to do a website. On inspection do people a) refer the
>DAR to the website, b) print out copies and give them to inspector, or c)
>keep a separate "manual" journal. For those that get by with just the
>website...how often do the DARs like to see progress pictures?
> >
> > 2) I am just starting the building process, and the harsh reality that
>my life will be dependant on the integrity of this structure is starting to
>sink in. Does anyone have one or two of the used Orndorff videos for sale
>or rent? Not having riveted anything before, I think it might make sense to
>get some perspective.
> >
> > THanks,
> > Scott
> > RV7A Emp
>
>
>Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
>The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
Hi Scot,
I do not believe most DAR's care for you pictures. When you apply for your
repairman certificate, they will be very interested because that is the
primary way they can ascertain that you were the builder.
You may find the video useful, but suggest you find a local builder that you
can get a little OJT as an economical and good way to get your feet wet. If
you can't find anyone, just take a Fla vacation and hangout with me a week
:>)
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, 9A rotary power building.(you can see progress on my
9A at www.rotaryaviation.com and click late developments and then bernie's
9A project.
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All,
> >
> > A couple of questions from a newbie builder:
> >
> > 1) What are the specific documentation requirements to satisfy the 51%
rule? I would like to do a website. On inspection do people a) refer the DAR
to the website, b) print out copies and give them to inspector, or c) keep a
separate "manual" journal. For those that get by with just the website...how
often do the DARs like to see progress pictures?
> >
> > 2) I am just starting the building process, and the harsh reality that
my life will be dependant on the integrity of this structure is starting to
sink in. Does anyone have one or two of the used Orndorff videos for sale or
rent? Not having riveted anything before, I think it might make sense to get
some perspective.
> >
> > THanks,
> > Scott
> > RV7A Emp
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: LED cockpit lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "willfly" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
I'm using something called infinity lights. Similar to small Mag lights. 3" long
by 5/8. I have two one for each side mounted on RAM-A-101 mounts under
the FWD rails. Each operated by one AA battery, no built in panel lights. Just
twist the top to turn on and vary intensity. If your interested go to www.glow-bug.com
and type infinity in the search engine.
Steve Glasgow
Message 4
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01/17/2003 09:10:47 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
Posted by Chuck:
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Charlie,
Thanks for the update on the BMA system... there's obviously great
hope
for this set up. Maybe I'll start saving my money.
Chuck
You had better jump in soon...the price has jumped considerably since last
year for the product and the mandatory service assistance contract. It
looks like BMA has decided to charge extra for their system now that it
actually may work...
Don Alexander
RV-8A
Wings
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
I started a log and gave up. Toward the end you just spend too much time
doing too many diverse things to "track" or "record it all", at least that's
my opinion. Occasionally I'd take a digital picture and would print two or
three pictures per page and put the pages in a three ring binder. My DAR
glanced at the book and felt that was adequate. As he inspected the plane,
though, he asked me a number of questions that probably could only readily
be answered by the "true" builder (as an example, on an 8A there is a small
plate that reinforces the lower section of a bulkhead where the step goes.
I messed up a few of the rivets there and he wanted to know what the rivets
were for).
Re: your second question, your investment in your RV is going to be
"substantial". Sort of like a car. With that in mind, taking an aerosport
(I think that's what it is now called . . . used to be called something
else) metal course over a weekend is great. Better still, via EAA or the
rv-list find a builder and spend a few hours with this person. Many in the
Denver area know Gary Zilik. In my case Gary's help was indispensable . . .
not just re: riveting, but revealing hints and techniques that aided the
building process. Good luck.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: WALTER KERR <kerrjb@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos
> --> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
>
> Hi Scot,
>
> I do not believe most DAR's care for you pictures. When you apply for your
> repairman certificate, they will be very interested because that is the
> primary way they can ascertain that you were the builder.
>
> You may find the video useful, but suggest you find a local builder that
you
> can get a little OJT as an economical and good way to get your feet wet.
If
> you can't find anyone, just take a Fla vacation and hangout with me a week
> :>)
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, 9A rotary power building.(you can see progress on
my
> 9A at www.rotaryaviation.com and click late developments and then bernie's
> 9A project.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
> >
> > All,
> > >
> > > A couple of questions from a newbie builder:
> > >
> > > 1) What are the specific documentation requirements to satisfy the 51%
> rule? I would like to do a website. On inspection do people a) refer the
DAR
> to the website, b) print out copies and give them to inspector, or c) keep
a
> separate "manual" journal. For those that get by with just the
website...how
> often do the DARs like to see progress pictures?
> > >
> > > 2) I am just starting the building process, and the harsh reality that
> my life will be dependant on the integrity of this structure is starting
to
> sink in. Does anyone have one or two of the used Orndorff videos for sale
or
> rent? Not having riveted anything before, I think it might make sense to
get
> some perspective.
> > >
> > > THanks,
> > > Scott
> > > RV7A Emp
> >
> >
> > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> > The most personalized portal on the Web!
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: wingtip differences |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
>
>
> A local HRII pilot switched from the old flattop wingtips to the new ones
and lost a mph or so.
>
> Not much, but I suppose it's enough for some folks to worry about. Here's
the condensed data:
>
> Results were: old Van tips=219.625 mph. After the change to the new "speed
tips" =218.25.
>
> Vince in Indiana
> F-1H Rocket with sheared tips under construction
I thought I picked up a knot or so with the sheared tips but I get more
variation in top speed with a small temperature change so I would not argue
either way. The biggest change was that my wife liked the handling
characteristics much better so she's more willing to take over when I need
to read a chart. The airplane feels more "locked on course" with the
sheared tips, kind of like the breakout force in roll is increased. Even
so, I can't tell that the full deflection roll rate is affected at all but I
expect it must be slightly less with the increased area outboard of the
ailerons.
Tracy Crook
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: AeroElectric-List: Lancair BMA Flight Testing] (EFIS |
info)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Charlie,
>
> Thanks for the update on the BMA system... there's obviously great
hope
> for this set up. Maybe I'll start saving my money.
>
> Chuck
I bought the BMA EFIS-1 a couple of years ago knowing full well that it
would probably take a year or more to get the software right. The hardware
platform looked good to me (I'm an EE) so I figured any shortcomings would
eventually get fixed. That's the beauty of programmable devices. Sounds
like it will be just about perfect by the time I get my RV-8 finished.
Tracy Crook
13B powered RV-4 1300+ Hrs
20B powered RV-8 - cutting holes in the panel
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
Anybody have another supplier (besides ACS) for fuel lube?
I want to use it to sandwich the fuel tank gaskets. Might have to proseal
everything which is not such a bad thing.
FYI ACS is sold out until April.
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
Supercharged Eggenfellner
Wiring & Canopy Frame
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re RV List: Red LED cockpit lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Check-out the "PHOTONPUMP V8" Led flashlight, Red, sold by Lee Valley (in major
cities in Canada) and I'll quote verbatim from their catalogue: "----can illuminate
objects up to 25' away. Superbly engineered, it won the German DASIGN PLUS
award for 2001. Measures 2 1/2" long by 9/16" diameter and comes with six
1.5V button batteries (two installed and four extras), each pair good for 25+
hours. Each flashlight is packaged in a fitted, brushed-aluminum presentation
case.---" (and here's the good part!)-Price: C$ 12.50 !! The Led Diode is guaranteed
for 100,000 operating hours!
I have bought two of them and will install them in my 6-A when I get active again
in the Spring.BTW the body of the light includes a knob on the back end that
includes a key-holder ring on a swivel link. It can easily be removed, that
leaves a convenient ~ .135" dia. mounting hole.
Lee Valley also carries two other products made by the same outfit, a blue "Flash-Fire"
like a miniature Light-saber (a la Darth Vader?) and a "Moon-Lenser"
which emits a full-moon shaped bright white light, same dia. as the red one but
slightly longer, just over 3'', comes with four button-cell batteries (two installed
and two extras) each set good for 50+ hours. I bought one of these too,
good for inspection in tight places and handy in the cockpit. Price: C$ 17.50
Cheers!!-----------Henry Hore
PS, I have no connection, monetary or otherwise with Lee Valley. Just love their
products!
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Well there is a reason why I'm flyin' an RV-4 and not a demil-ed F-18 or
reconditioned F-86.... "funding", or lack there of. So I guess I'll just
wait for the technology premium price to come down and save my $ while I'm
waitin'.
>
> You had better jump in soon...the price has jumped considerably since last
> year for the product and the mandatory service assistance contract. It
> looks like BMA has decided to charge extra for their system now that it
> actually may work...
> Don Alexander
> RV-8A
> Wings
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>
>Anybody have another supplier (besides ACS) for fuel lube?
>
>I want to use it to sandwich the fuel tank gaskets. Might have to proseal
>everything which is not such a bad thing.
>
FWIW. I did not find it fun to remove the left tank at first annual to
remove Fuel Lube sealed gasket and replace with Proseal sealed plate with
no gasket (due to Fuel Lube deterioration and leakage). Nor did I find
it fun to remove the right tank at the second annual to do the same.
Lots of spare Fuel Lube in my hangar that I will never use.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Thomas McCausland" <acceltek@acceltekservice.com>
Date sent: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:12:27 -0500
From: sjhdcl@kingston.net
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Lube
Send reply to: rv-list@matronics.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>
> Anybody have another supplier (besides ACS) for fuel lube?
>
> I want to use it to sandwich the fuel tank gaskets. Might have to proseal
> everything which is not such a bad thing.
>
> FYI ACS is sold out until April.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
> Supercharged Eggenfellner
> Wiring & Canopy Frame
>
>
Falconcrest Aviation Supply here in Houston has it on the shelf.
I saw it the other day while shopping for other stuff. I'm sure you
could get it from them with a credit card or whatever.
I don't think they really have a website. Here is the info:
Falconcrest Aviation Supply
8318 Braniff
Houston,TX. 77061
Tel:713.644.0356
Fax:713.644.2290
Tom McCausland
PPASEL
N1576J PA-28-140
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re:RV-List; wingtip differences |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert Adams" <pingobingo@moseslake-wa.com>
Does anyone notice any difference in stall speed, landing behaviour, or high altitude
performance?
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
For what it's worth, I bought EZ-Turn from ACS. I was told it's exactly the
same as Fuelube but it's cheaper and comes in a small tube...more convenient
size.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Lube
> --> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>
> Anybody have another supplier (besides ACS) for fuel lube?
>
> I want to use it to sandwich the fuel tank gaskets. Might have to proseal
> everything which is not such a bad thing.
>
> FYI ACS is sold out until April.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
> Supercharged Eggenfellner
> Wiring & Canopy Frame
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: MARTIN EMRATH <emrath@comcast.net>
Speak of things missing from their option kits, can someone tell me if
the 3/16" tee is supposed to be included with the optional static air
kit? Mine had everything else, but not this. I have since located a
tee ("F" tee worked nice) but the local Home Depot and Loew's didn't
have it, only 3/16" splices, and they did have the 1/4" O.D.x 0.170"
I.D. hose that was included in the kit.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Subject: AFP install kit...no AN826-6D?
From: Dan Checkoway (dan@rvproject.com)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Hm...been working on the Airflow Performance high-pressure fuel pump
installation, and I realized that the kit requires an AN826-6D tee
fitting
from the selector, tees into the filter and pump bypass. But it appears
that the install kit came with everything BUT this fitting. Strange.
I'm
going to ask Van's if that was inadvertent or whether it's up to the
builder
to come up with that one fitting.
Anyway, heads-up...save yourself time/shipping and order an AN826-6D
when
you get the pump & install kit!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 16
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MIME_EXCESSIVE_QP,
MIME_LONG_LINE_QP@matronics.com, SPAM_PHRASE_01_02@matronics.com,
SUBJECT_IS_LIST@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
Yes, my static kit had the tee.
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
N900TW - Reserved
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: MARTIN EMRATH [mailto:emrath@comcast.net]
Subject: RV-List: Static Air Kits
--> RV-List message posted by: MARTIN EMRATH <emrath@comcast.net>
Speak of things missing from their option kits, can someone tell me if
the 3/16" tee is supposed to be included with the optional static air
kit? Mine had everything else, but not this. I have since located a
tee ("F" tee worked nice) but the local Home Depot and Loew's didn't
have it, only 3/16" splices, and they did have the 1/4" O.D.x 0.170"
I.D. hose that was included in the kit.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Subject: AFP install kit...no AN826-6D?
From: Dan Checkoway (dan@rvproject.com)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Hm...been working on the Airflow Performance high-pressure fuel pump installation,
and I realized that the kit requires an AN826-6D tee
fitting
from the selector, tees into the filter and pump bypass. But it appears that the
install kit came with everything BUT this fitting. Strange.
I'm
going to ask Van's if that was inadvertent or whether it's up to the
builder
to come up with that one fitting.
Anyway, heads-up...save yourself time/shipping and order an AN826-6D
when
you get the pump & install kit!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ they call it EZ Turn Fuel Lube
sjhdcl@kingston.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>
>Anybody have another supplier (besides ACS) for fuel lube?
>
>I want to use it to sandwich the fuel tank gaskets. Might have to proseal
>everything which is not such a bad thing.
>
>FYI ACS is sold out until April.
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>RV7A
>Supercharged Eggenfellner
>Wiring & Canopy Frame
>
>
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
Rans S12xl For Sale: http://www.spitfire.org/bhester/s12.html or
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/NewSite/Ranss12xlForSale.html
Message 18
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| Subject: | Restrictions on the Use of Experimental Aircraft |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Willke, Theodore L" <theodore.l.willke@intel.com>
Hi All,
Just joined the RV list and thought I'd give it a try. Looking to build an
RV-7A. Here's the question:
Can an Experimental Aircraft such as the RV be used like any other
Factory-Built Aircraft after it is approved to enter Phase II
certification? I've read the FAA's Airworthiness Certification of
Aircraft... 8310.2D which modifies the restrictions placed on
Experimentals from what is listed in 2003 FAR/AIM. For my purposes,
I'd like to fly this aircraft IFR and in/out of controlled airspaces (Class
C and D primarily)
without special restrictions. 8130.2D would seem to permit this but
the current 2003 FAR/AIM clearly does not.
Do you know why 8310.2D has not been incorporated into the published
FAR/AIM and when it may be added?
Thanks!
--Ted
------------------------------
Ted L. Willke
Server I/O Architecture
Enterprise Platforms Group
Intel Corporation
DuPont, WA
Message 19
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| Subject: | Pitot hole in wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
I've finished up the installation of the Gretz pitot tube mount in the left wing
of my RV6A quickbuild, but I've got one task left - plugging the hole left for
the regular aluminum tube pitot supplied by Van's. Since this was a quickbuild
kit, the hole was already punched in the wing for the builder to run the
aluminum tube + fittings through, but since I went with a heated pitot option
(the GretzAero kit is very well done, if anyone is thinking about it/looking
at it) I now have a hole to plug. I don't have the plans in front of me, but
it seems that the hole is perhaps 3/8" or 1/2" in diameter.
Does anyone have any suggestions for plugging the hole? I'd appreciate any pointers
on this - since it's on the wing next to the spar, I'm a little anxious
about messing it up...
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Clamp for nose strut fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Gary,
I just went through the EXACT same problem on my -8A....got a 1/2" wide hose clamp
from ACE Hardware and it's too big (hits the wheel pant when the wheel is
turned from side to side). Checked several other hardware stores in town, finally
looked online and found 5/16" clamps at McMaster Carr. Ordered them and
the fit is perfect. I wrote Vans an e-mail and said that after spending several
hours and many times the money it should have cost (you can't order just one
clamp from McMaster, plus you pay shipping) I think adding this to the kit would
be a good idea. In fact, I can't figure out why they don't just put in the
right sized clamps for all the gear leg fairings....it's not like it's an optional
or user-preference item like avionics or paint...? Anyway it's good they're
hearing it from other builders, so that future builders won't have to go
through this painful ordeal : ) Almost makes me wish I'd built a taildragger....almost...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing
--------------------------------------------------------
Time: 10:09:47 PM PST US
From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Clamp for nose strut fairing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Andy,
Yeah, mine is done........except for finding the specified 3/8 inch wide hose clamp.
I was just going to post a message on the list about this, to see what
solutions people had.
The problem is not the pant.....it is the clamp. The deal is, the only hose clamps
I can find in a big enough size to go around the nose strut and fairing are
all 1/2 inch wide. Vans calls out a 3/8 inch wide clamp. I called Van's
on this, after searching all the hardware stores, and the aircraft supply catalogs.
The only place I have not checked is McMaster-Carr.
Van's didn't have an answer, other than what I'd already tried. He said it shouldn't
be a problem to find narrow hose clamps. I said, fine, you guys find them,
and include them in the kit.
Bottom line is, the pant and fairing fit fine, we just need a clamp that is narrow
enough and has a small enough worm drive so it won't hit the inside of the front
of the nose pant when the gear pivots.
I'll post this to the two lists and see what we stir up.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Karmy
Subject: Nose wheel pant?
Hey Gary,
I'm having a hard time getting the nosewheel pant to work out. Have you fit that
part yet? I finished mounting the pant and everything was fine until I tried
to install the nose gear leg fairing. Seems the hoseclamp at the bottom is
too high (when pressed all the way down) so it apears that I got the pant mounted
too low (by about 3/16") so now I can't hide the clamp inside the pant...
Did yours work out, or have you done it yet?
- Andy
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Hello
Ok. Easy Question.
My -8 blows fuel out of both caps shortly after takeoff when the tanks are
full. This obviously makes a mess, wastes money, and makes the passenger
somewhat concerned. What is the trick to prevent this aside from putting
a bead of black grease around the seal (I guess I will if I have to)?
Rob Miller
RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hours
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Leaky Fuel Caps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Rob:
Can't wait to hear the responses because I am having the exact same problem.
I have tightened the caps to the point I couldn't close them if I make them
any tighter. I have put fuel lube on the o ring to the point my caps are
messy. I don't fill the tanks all the way up ...... and I still get leaks
....???? Do Not Archive
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
49 hours !!
Message 23
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| Subject: | Taylor Pneumatic Tools |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Penney" <van@entechnos.com>
As a result of email conversations on this list, I was able to find a
local tool supplier. However, the only pneumatic tool line they carry
is Taylor. I have no experience with these at all and was wondering if
anyone else has any recommendations on this line.
Thanks
Bert
Message 24
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RV-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Led lights in the plane |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
With LED lights being the craze these days, I would like to put some in
my plane. Finding the LEDs is easy enough but in order to power them
you need to have a way to control the out put voltage with a variable
input voltage. I would also like to have the ability to dim the LEDs so
does anyone know where I can get a circuit like that so I can wire up my
own LEDs wherever I want to? If I'm not mistaken, the voltage going to
the LED needs to be controlled fairly well because if you send too much
you could shorten the life of the LED quite a bit.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35? 20.492'
W97? 34.342'
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Taylor Pneumatic Tools |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
I bought a set of Taylor tools a couple years ago (3x gun, drill, pop riveter,
etc.) from Brown Tool and have been very happy with them. I would certainly
buy them again, based on my experience with them.
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 1/17/2003 at 12:58 PM Bert Penney wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Penney" <van@entechnos.com>
>
>As a result of email conversations on this list, I was able to find a
>local tool supplier. However, the only pneumatic tool line they carry
>is Taylor. I have no experience with these at all and was wondering if
>anyone else has any recommendations on this line.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bert
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot hole in wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner@wans.net>
Dear Brad,
Why don' you use the existing hole for an OAT-Sensor (may need a doubler
plate inside the wing). Nice and shady down there if you fly mainly right
side up, and away from the Exhaust-Heat. Other than that, cut out (press
out?) a round piece of aluminum the diameter of the hole, and rivet that to
a doubler plate inside the wing.
Konrad
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot hole in wing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>
>
> I've finished up the installation of the Gretz pitot tube mount in the
left wing of my RV6A quickbuild, but I've got one task left - plugging the
hole left for the regular aluminum tube pitot supplied by Van's. Since
this was a quickbuild kit, the hole was already punched in the wing for the
builder to run the aluminum tube + fittings through, but since I went with a
heated pitot option (the GretzAero kit is very well done, if anyone is
thinking about it/looking at it) I now have a hole to plug. I don't have
the plans in front of me, but it seems that the hole is perhaps 3/8" or 1/2"
in diameter.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for plugging the hole? I'd appreciate
any pointers on this - since it's on the wing next to the spar, I'm a little
anxious about messing it up...
>
> Thanks!
> Brad "Sharpie" Benson
> RV6AQB underway...
> "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
http://www.notamd.com
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot hole in win |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
How about a snap-in plug for that hole ? They come in lots of sizes and you
can paint right over it.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DALE HARVEY" <DHARVEY564@msn.com>
Don,
They raised the price about this time last year even before they had the bugs worked
out. Lancair helped out last fall to get the last few problems fixed.
Dale Harvey
RV-7A
Wings
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: AFP install kit...no AN826-6D? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Update: I spoke to Van's parts dept this morning and they confirmed that I
was supposed to get the AN826-6D tee fitting in bag 605. No joy, so they're
sending me the fitting no charge.
)_( Dan
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: AFP install kit...no AN826-6D?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Hm...been working on the Airflow Performance high-pressure fuel pump
> installation, and I realized that the kit requires an AN826-6D tee fitting
> from the selector, tees into the filter and pump bypass. But it appears
> that the install kit came with everything BUT this fitting. Strange. I'm
> going to ask Van's if that was inadvertent or whether it's up to the
builder
> to come up with that one fitting.
>
> Anyway, heads-up...save yourself time/shipping and order an AN826-6D when
> you get the pump & install kit!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Rob,
I just finished solving that very problem. Take the caps out, lossen up the
lock nut, and tighten screw the bottom wedge up a turn or two. Makes them
fit tighter, and then you don't have that unsightly streak of "dumping" fuel
with the tanks are topped off! I've had to tighten my fuel caps more than
once over the past 80 hours, but now I think they are good!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Hello
Ok. Easy Question.
My -8 blows fuel out of both caps shortly after takeoff when the tanks are
full. This obviously makes a mess, wastes money, and makes the passenger
somewhat concerned. What is the trick to prevent this aside from putting
a bead of black grease around the seal (I guess I will if I have to)?
Rob Miller
RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hours
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Need Sensenich prop spacer for 0-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Does anybody out there that has changed from fixed pitch Sensenich to CS have
a Sensenich spacer spool, the 2 1/4th inch long one for 1/2 inch bolts for an
0-360, laying around that they would consider loaning me so I can get started
on my cowling while waiting for my prop to arrive. I would gladly pay
shipping and insurance both ways and would need it for about four to six
weeks according to Van's current delivery estimates. I'm also looking for a
cover plate for the prop governor adapter hole if anyone can suggest where I
can find one at a reasonable price.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Led lights in the plane |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Chris,
The important thing in LEDs is not to exceed the forward CURRENT over what
the device is rated
for. The forward voltage will not vary much, depending on the LED. Typical
Vf (forward voltage) is in the range of 1.2 to 3 volts and forward current
can be up to 100 milliamps, again depending on the LED. For instance the
PHOTONPUMP Flashlight that I described in my List Post this morning,
consumes 70 milliamps from a 3 volt battery and putting a 27 ohm resistor in
series dims the light considerably. If you use an adjustable voltage
regulator device like a LM317, powered from your Bus, (say, 14 Volts), the
maximum voltage you would get out of it would be about 12.5 volts with the
adjustment turned full up. You will then have to use a current limiting
resistor of a value so the current will not exceed the rated forward current
of your LED.
Example, if I use the PHOTONPUMP device above, I know it consumes 70
milliamps so connecting the voltage regulator to it instead of the
batteries, I'd have to drop 12-5 - 3 divided by .07, or 9.5 /.07= 138 ohms.
(Or the nearest higher standard value) The power dissipated by the resistor
would be 9.5 X .07= .665 watts. A standard 1 watt resistor will do.
The LM317 is available at Radio Shack and I think the package has a simple
schematic on how to use it.
Hope this helps.----------Cheers------Henry Hore
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot hole in wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Brad, I believe you will find that (Other Hole) is treaded and is for your
"Wing Tie Down". I also installed the Gretz Pitot on my RV6A-QB.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot hole in wing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>
>
> I've finished up the installation of the Gretz pitot tube mount in the
left wing of my RV6A quickbuild, but I've got one task left - plugging the
hole left for the regular aluminum tube pitot supplied by Van's. Since
this was a quickbuild kit, the hole was already punched in the wing for the
builder to run the aluminum tube + fittings through, but since I went with a
heated pitot option (the GretzAero kit is very well done, if anyone is
thinking about it/looking at it) I now have a hole to plug. I don't have
the plans in front of me, but it seems that the hole is perhaps 3/8" or 1/2"
in diameter.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for plugging the hole? I'd appreciate
any pointers on this - since it's on the wing next to the spar, I'm a little
anxious about messing it up...
>
> Thanks!
> Brad "Sharpie" Benson
> RV6AQB underway...
> "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
http://www.notamd.com
>
>
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
I have gone to the archives without luck.
How do you sew or what ever the center panels in the seats so they have a
valley and don't stretch a crossed the top?
Jerry Wilken
RV6A N699WP
14 HR.
do not archive
Message 35
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| Subject: | CS vs. Fixed pitch O-360? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Group...
I know someone out there must have a performance comparison for an O-360 Lyc
between a constant speed and fixed pitch prop. Am interested in takeoff and
climb differences. I know Vans' had a chart someplace but I can't find it.
Thanx,
Jerry Cochran
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert Hasson" <hassonr@theriver.com>
Rob,
The first time I filled my tip tanks (Johanson's) on my -6A, I had the same
problem. I traced the source of the leak to the small "O" ring around the
shaft. The "O" ring seal fits the ID of the cap, and the OD of the shaft
satisfactorily. However, you will notice that the counter-bore in the cap
for the "O" ring is exactly the same depth as the thickness of the "O" ring.
When the cap is in the locked position, the "O" ring is not compressed in
thickness. Therefore, fuel can weep by the "O" ring seal no matter how much
you tighten the adjustment. For ANY "O" ring seal to be effective it must
be compressed to expand the seal.
I spoke with the provider of the caps and explained my discovery, he replied
that no one else had reported the problem, so it must be unique to my caps.
I have four fuel caps on my plane, and they are dimensionally the same. I
can only assume that all caps are manufactured to the same engineering
drawing and will leak under certain conditions. I must say that the
manufacturer was very courteous, listened patiently, was not defensive of
his product.......I think he just didn't understand the point I was trying
to make. The fix is to reduce the depth of the counter-bore approximately
.050" during the machining process. Obviously that would be of no
assistance to those of us who already have fuel caps.
My solution (field repair) was to place a Teflon back-up on top of the "O"
ring. A "back-up" is essentially a Teflon washer that is placed on either
side of "O" rings seals when they are exposed to dynamic usage, for instance
in hydraulic servos or pistons in aircraft flight control systems (back-ups
compress the seals without damaging them). The objective is to compress the
"O" ring so it can provide a seal between the shaft and cap. I think you
could just as well use a stainless washer in this application, I used the
Teflon back-ups simply because I had several surplus kits.
Bob Hasson
RV-6A (very red)
N606BH
230 happy hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Miller
Subject: RV-List: Leaky Fuel Caps
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Hello
Ok. Easy Question.
My -8 blows fuel out of both caps shortly after takeoff when the tanks are
full. This obviously makes a mess, wastes money, and makes the passenger
somewhat concerned. What is the trick to prevent this aside from putting
a bead of black grease around the seal (I guess I will if I have to)?
Rob Miller
RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hours
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Need Sensenich prop spacer for 0-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
HCRV6@aol.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> Does anybody out there that has changed from fixed pitch Sensenich to CS have
> a Sensenich spacer spool, the 2 1/4th inch long one for 1/2 inch bolts for an
> 0-360, laying around that they would consider loaning me so I can get started
> on my cowling while waiting for my prop to arrive. I would gladly pay
> shipping and insurance both ways and would need it for about four to six
> weeks according to Van's current delivery estimates. I'm also looking for a
> cover plate for the prop governor adapter hole if anyone can suggest where I
> can find one at a reasonable price.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, starting firewall forward
Harry, you can make it just fine without the spacer. Here is a link
showing how to locate the rear spinner bulkhead without the spacer so
you can do the cowl fit-up:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/engine2.html
Scroll to about mid-page to see the PVC pipe spacers.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
I also had this problem. I recently disassembled the caps, and added
fuel lube not just to the o-rings, but also in between the metal cap
parts and the nylon beveled washers. I carefully pried them off their
bosses on the two halves, and goobered the area under the nylon with
fuel lube. I suspect that this is the area that mine leaked, since
there was also a bit of corrosion under the nylon. Anyway, no leaks
now.
Now, does anyone have a way to get these caps off when the temperature
is below about 10 degrees F? I have to really work them to get them off
when it is cold.
And another thing - Van sells replacement "washers" made from SS to go
under the release tabs. The original plastic ones which came on mine
(in '93) gouge out right away and cause the tab to sit up in the
slipstream a little.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 249 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 39
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owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Clamp for nose strut fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
I took two little short narrow ones and hooked 'em up in series.
Tim
From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Clamp for nose strut fairing
Date sent: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 22:54:23 -0700
Send reply to: rv-list@matronics.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
> Andy,
>
> Yeah, mine is done........except for finding the specified 3/8 inch wide hose
clamp. I was just going to post a message on the list about this, to see what
solutions people had.
>
> The problem is not the pant.....it is the clamp. The deal is, the only hose
clamps I can find in a big enough size to go around the nose strut and fairing
are all 1/2 inch wide. Vans calls out a 3/8 inch wide clamp. I called Van's
on this, after searching all the hardware stores, and the
aircraft supply catalogs. The only place I have not checked is McMaster-Carr.
>
> Van's didn't have an answer, other than what I'd already tried. He said it shouldn't
be a problem to find narrow hose clamps. I said, fine, you guys find
them, and include them in the kit.
>
> Bottom line is, the pant and fairing fit fine, we just need a clamp that is narrow
enough and has a small enough worm drive so it won't hit the inside of the
front of the nose pant when the gear pivots.
>
> I'll post this to the two lists and see what we stir up.
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Andy Karmy
> To: rv9er@3rivers.net
> Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 4:05 PM
> Subject: Nose wheel pant?
>
>
> Hey Gary,
>
> I'm having a hard time getting the nosewheel pant to work out. Have you fit
that part yet? I fi
nished mounting the pant and everything was fine until I tried to install the nose
gear leg fairing
. Seems the hoseclamp at the bottom is too high (when pressed all the way down)
so it apears that I
got the pant mounted too low (by about 3/16") so now I can't hide the clamp inside
the pant... Did
yours work out, or have you done it yet?
>
> - Andy
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.431 / Virus Database: 242 - Release Date: 12/22/02
>
>
>
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Need Sensenich prop spacer for 0-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 05:29 PM 1/17/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
>Does anybody out there that has changed from fixed pitch Sensenich to CS have
>a Sensenich spacer spool, the 2 1/4th inch long one for 1/2 inch bolts for an
>0-360, laying around that they would consider loaning me so I can get started
>on my cowling while waiting for my prop to arrive
Harry,
I used some pieces of heavy 3/4" ( ? ) poly pipe as spacers. Worked great.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Led lights in the plane |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> With LED lights being the craze these days, I would like to put
> some in my plane.
[snip]
Sounds like you're looking at doing something similar to what I did. Go look
at http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/cabinlts.html to see my write-up on
it.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
do not archive
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Led lights in the plane |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
Henry, I read your description of the Photonpump and would like to get one. But
I can't find any on-line anywhere. The only sites I can find that sell it are
in Germany.
Do you know anywhere they can be ordered in the states?
Thanks.
Jeff Bertsch
RV-4, Houston, TX
---------------------------------
Message 43
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> FWIW. I did not find it fun to remove the left tank at first annual to
> remove Fuel Lube sealed gasket and replace with Proseal sealed plate with
> no gasket (due to Fuel Lube deterioration and leakage). Nor did I find
> it fun to remove the right tank at the second annual to do the same.
I second that. Search the archives and you'll find a bunch of people who's
leaky tanks were a result of trying to get around prosealing the plates on.
Kind of defeats the purpose of "just in case I have to take them off to fix
a leaky tank..."
I did have to replace a sender that went bad, and while I admit it wasn't
much fun prying the prosealed-on plate off of there, it wasn't all that big
a deal, And the plates themselves have never leaked.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot hole in wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
Brad
Install a small doubler with an appropriate thickness aluminum slug
installed
with one rivit. Simple and invisible. Been there, done that.
George Meketa
RV-8, 239 hours
> > I've finished up the installation of the Gretz pitot tube mount in the
> left wing of my RV6A quickbuild, but I've got one task left - plugging the
> hole left for the regular aluminum tube pitot supplied by Van's. Since
> this was a quickbuild kit, the hole was already punched in the wing for
the
> builder to run the aluminum tube + fittings through, but since I went with
a
> heated pitot option (the GretzAero kit is very well done, if anyone is
> thinking about it/looking at it) I now have a hole to plug. I don't have
> the plans in front of me, but it seems that the hole is perhaps 3/8" or
1/2"
> in diameter.
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions for plugging the hole? I'd appreciate
> any pointers on this - since it's on the wing next to the spar, I'm a
little
> anxious about messing it up...
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Brad "Sharpie" Benson
> > RV6AQB underway...
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Led lights in the plane |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Garth Shearing" <garth@islandnet.com>
Since LED light output is a function of current through the diode it is
better to power the diode or diodes with a current regulator. This can be
done with a few resistors, a transistor, a couple or ordinary diodes and a
potentiometer to vary the current and the associated light ouput if desired.
I haven't looked at the literature recently, but there may be some power
integrated circuits which do the whole job. I noted the other day that a
car I was following had a large string of LED's for the high centre stop
lamp. Four of them were dimmer than the rest. I would bet that they are
powering their LED's in fours (4 times 2.2 volts or so equals 8.8 volts or
so) and they may be using a commonly available current regulator.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
<rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Led lights in the plane
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> With LED lights being the craze these days, I would like to put some in
> my plane. Finding the LEDs is easy enough but in order to power them
> you need to have a way to control the out put voltage with a variable
> input voltage. I would also like to have the ability to dim the LEDs so
> does anyone know where I can get a circuit like that so I can wire up my
> own LEDs wherever I want to? If I'm not mistaken, the voltage going to
> the LED needs to be controlled fairly well because if you send too much
> you could shorten the life of the LED quite a bit.
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35? 20.492'
> W97? 34.342'
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | 4 into one exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Had a friend ask me if I knew of anyone making a 4 into 1 exhaust for an RV.
He had one on his old RV-6 but does not know where he got it. His old
engine was from Lycon and they recommened the 4 into 1 exhaust that he had.
His new RV has an engine from Performance Aero Engines and he wants the 4
into 1 exhaust again.
Can anyone send me a name with email, phone number, or web site to contact?
I am happy with my High Country Vetterman exhaust and would use it again.
Different strokes for differnt folks.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,239 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
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