Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:18 AM - wheel clearance (Jim Jewell)
2. 04:39 AM - Re: Pitot hole in wing (Dana Overall)
3. 06:07 AM - Panel/Load Centers/Solid State? (J. R. Dial)
4. 06:11 AM - Stuff for Sale (MSices)
5. 06:13 AM - Re: 4 into one exhaust (RICKRV6@aol.com)
6. 06:15 AM - Re: Re: Led lights in the plane (Rick Jory)
7. 06:17 AM - Nigerian Air Force (Rick Galati)
8. 06:42 AM - Re: Panel/Load Centers/Solid State? (MSices)
9. 07:17 AM - Re: Re: Led lights in the plane (Elsa & Henry)
10. 07:41 AM - Overpainting powder paint (Dave Stewart)
11. 07:54 AM - Re: Fuel Lube (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
12. 07:58 AM - Re: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
13. 07:59 AM - Re: Pitot hole in wing (Brad Benson)
14. 08:40 AM - Re: Overpainting powder paint (Randy Lervold)
15. 08:54 AM - Re: Fuel Lube (Steve J Hurlbut)
16. 09:08 AM - Re: 4 into one exhaust (Mauri Morin)
17. 09:17 AM - Re: 4 into one exhaust (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
18. 09:19 AM - superior engine quote (lucky macy)
19. 09:19 AM - Clamp for nose strut fairing (Gary)
20. 10:02 AM - TOOLS -4- SALE! (Konrad Werner)
21. 10:25 AM - Re: Need Sensenich prop spacer for 0-360 (HCRV6@aol.com)
22. 11:33 AM - Re: Anybody doing Transition Training In Texas or Florida in a 6A? (Chopper)
23. 12:21 PM - Re: Fuel Lube (Larry Bowen)
24. 01:41 PM - Re: Fuel Lube (Miller Robert)
25. 02:33 PM - Left over parts two F 804 L (phil jones)
26. 03:06 PM - Re: Left over parts two F 804 L (Dana Overall)
27. 03:40 PM - Re:Leftover parts two F-804L (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
28. 03:43 PM - Re: Anybody doing Transition Training In Texas or Florida in a 6A? (Rquinn1@aol.com)
29. 04:58 PM - Re: Overpainting Powdercoat (Dick DeCramer)
30. 06:05 PM - Prop Questions (Keith and Jean Williams)
31. 06:08 PM - [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
32. 06:13 PM - Engine Hung (czechsix@juno.com)
33. 06:31 PM - Re: Fuel Lube (Randall Henderson)
34. 08:35 PM - Millenium Cylinders (Alex Peterson)
35. 09:15 PM - Re: Static Air Kits (Norman)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
I'm fitting Van's main gear two piece wheel pants on my 6-a.
What tire to wheel pant opening clearance is considered best over all?
Jim in Kelowna
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot hole in wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Brad, if the "hole" is nearly on the lateral rivet line of the leading edge
skin and you can see that the hole through the spar flange (important) by
looking in the inspection panel hole, that is where the Van pitot would go.
If the "hole" is about 1.5" forward of the skin joint line, and just through
the skin and not the spar flange, that is your tiedown. Find you tiedown
and stick it in and turn.........if it stays...........tie that baby down
there.
Vans didn't pre punch the pitot hole in the 7.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>
>Brad, I believe you will find that (Other Hole) is treaded and is for your
>"Wing Tie Down".
Message 3
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| Subject: | Panel/Load Centers/Solid State? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Has anybody used the solid state load centers or pre-made
power panels that AS&S and /or VAN'S have it their catalogs? What is
your opinion and any problems? I am starting on the panel and trying to
decide if I want to use one of these or go the conventional route of
individual breakers and switches. I am building light and will have
attitude information but no VOR, ADF etc.
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "MSices" <msices@core.com>
Vans
Qty. 1 NEW 2" 'Y' Tube p/n: VENT DL-Y price: $12 (vans price$16.25)
Qty. 1 NEW Plastic Vent p/n: VENDT SV-5 price: $11 (vans price $15.90)
Qty. 1 NEW Starter Solenoid p/n: ES24021 price: $12 (vans price $15.92).
*This is solenoid with only one contact point in front (not 2)
Qty. 2 NEW Diode for Master Switch p/n: ES DIODE MASTER price: $1.50 (vans
price $2.75)
Qty. 2 NEW Diode for Starter Switch p/n: ES DIODE STARTER price: $1.50
(vans price $2.75)
Qty. 1 NEW* Airflow Performance Filtered Airbox p/n: FAB 360-AP price: $80.
NOTE: This unit was never used on a flying airplane; however, the nutplates
on this kit have already been riveted to the VA131 top plate. Everything
else is untouched as it comes from Vans and you can return in to me if it
doesnt work for you.
Spruce
Qty. 1 NEW IN PACKAGE Eyeball Firewall Grommett/Assembly p/n SE961-250B
price: $23 (Spruce price $27.50)
Qty. 1 Oil Cooler Duct System Spruce p/n 08-05000 price: $25 (spruce price
$34.50)
Qty. 1 NEW* Oil Breather Separator Wicks p/n OIL-BS5/8 price: $30 (Wicks
price $40). This unit is new/ never used PLUS I had it powdercoated
(outside only) safety yellow (looks sharp).
Qty. 30 Instrument Mounting Nuts price: $.50/ea
Qty. 1 Tach cap cover price: $8
Qty. 1 Aeroelectric p/n FGB-24 24-Tab Groundblock price: $20
Qty. 1 Aeroelectric P/N FLK-1 Fusible Link Kit price: $3
SHIPPING at cost.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Michael Sices
N339JA
RV-8, Finishing
Gurnee, IL
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 4 into one exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6@aol.com
Gary,
Have him try Sky Dynamics in Virginia.
<A HREF="http://www.skydynamics.com/">http://www.skydynamics.com/
Rick McBride
In a message dated 1/18/03 12:53:03 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv6_flyer@hotmail.com writes:
> Had a friend ask me if I knew of anyone making a 4 into 1 exhaust for an RV.
>
> He had one on his old RV-6 but does not know where he got it. His old
> engine was from Lycon and they recommened the 4 into 1 exhaust that he had.
>
> His new RV has an engine from Performance Aero Engines and he wants the 4
> into 1 exhaust again.
>
> Can anyone send me a name with email, phone number, or web site to contact?
>
> I am happy with my High Country Vetterman exhaust and would use it again.
> Different strokes for differnt folks.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,239 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Led lights in the plane |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
I'm not Henry, but I know these can be ordered from www.LeeValley.com .
They are only about $9 bucks U.S. . . . twenty or thirty bucks Canadian ;-)
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Led lights in the plane
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Henry, I read your description of the Photonpump and would like to get
one. But I can't find any on-line anywhere. The only sites I can find that
sell it are in Germany.
>
> Do you know anywhere they can be ordered in the states?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeff Bertsch
>
> RV-4, Houston, TX
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Nigerian Air Force |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Anybody know about the current status of the 60 RV-6A's purchased by the
Nigerians? I was wondering how the design is holding up in a
military environment. What are the aerodynamic changes the Nigerians
made to the basic design, what kind of avionics are they fitted with, what is
the typical mission profile, do they spin them, attrition rate, how many hours
do they fly per month, how many hours is the new pilot expected to accumulate in
the 6A before stepping up, do they operate from unimproved fields, history of
repairable damage, does Van's Aircraft Inc.support them, and last but not least,
did they prime the interior surfaces?
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Panel/Load Centers/Solid State? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MSices" <msices@core.com>
I just finished all of my wiring into an EXP bus w/ annunicator panel. The
system is very nice - and after lighting everything up recently for the
first time, everything works as advertised. Also, the solid state breakers
with automatic resetting linked to the annunciator panel is something you
really don't get with conventional breakers. The system has a backup
battery option that you would otherwise have to design into a conventional
breaker setup. The unit has really nice professional looking rocker
switches, and is an overall very well thought out design. My only fault
with the unit then is the misconception that these units are somehow easier
or less complicated to install. That's not the case. You spend as much
time figuring out the schematics of the board and how to make your custom
airplane work within the prescribed circuits as you would just installing a
bank of Klixons wired to a main and avionics bus copper bar in my opinion.
Standard breakers don't have the same features as the solid state ones
though, but at least both can be reset in flight.
Mike Sices
RV8 N339JA
Gurnee, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
Subject: RV-List: Panel/Load Centers/Solid State?
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Has anybody used the solid state load centers or pre-made
power panels that AS&S and /or VAN'S have it their catalogs? What is
your opinion and any problems? I am starting on the panel and trying to
decide if I want to use one of these or go the conventional route of
individual breakers and switches. I am building light and will have
attitude information but no VOR, ADF etc.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Led lights in the plane |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Jeff, (and other interested listers),
The PHOTONPUMP Led flashlights described in my posting yesterday (1/17) are
sold by a Canadian company called Lee Valley, renowned for unusually fine
quality carpentry and garden tools, plus items of unusual availability.
They will accept orders and credit-card purchases from the US.--- Phone:
1-800-267-8767 or shop on-line at www.leevalley.com The quality and
photography of/in their catalogues is "Par excellence".Their cacalogue Nos.
are as follows:
Red Led flashlight:--------45K16.16---Price: C$ 12.50
Moon Lenser flashlight:---45K16.95---Price: C$ 17.50
Cheers!!!-------Henry Hore
Message 10
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| Subject: | Overpainting powder paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Stewart" <davestewart@globalserve.net>
I'm considering overpainting some of the (blindingly white) powdercoated components,
(gear mounts, maybe canopy frame), with Rustoleum "hammered" or the like,
to make them less obvious. I'd appreciate any comments on the proper steps to
prepare/paint the parts from anyone who's done this successfully. Thanks.
Dave (90252)
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Ditto!!
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue [mailto:n5lp@carlsbad.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Lube
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>
>Anybody have another supplier (besides ACS) for fuel lube?
>
>I want to use it to sandwich the fuel tank gaskets. Might have to proseal
>everything which is not such a bad thing.
>
FWIW. I did not find it fun to remove the left tank at first annual to
remove Fuel Lube sealed gasket and replace with Proseal sealed plate with
no gasket (due to Fuel Lube deterioration and leakage). Nor did I find
it fun to remove the right tank at the second annual to do the same.
Lots of spare Fuel Lube in my hangar that I will never use.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 12
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| Subject: | 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
My real-live Fed airworthiness inspector looked at a few of my photos.
Never once even glanced at my detailed builder's log.
-----Original Message-----
From: tx_jayhawk@excite.com [mailto:tx_jayhawk@excite.com]
Subject: RV-List: 51% Requirements and Orndorff Videos
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
>
> A couple of questions from a newbie builder:
>
> 1) What are the specific documentation requirements to satisfy the 51%
rule? I would like to do a website. On inspection do people a) refer the DAR
to the website, b) print out copies and give them to inspector, or c) keep a
separate "manual" journal. For those that get by with just the website...how
often do the DARs like to see progress pictures?
>
> 2) I am just starting the building process, and the harsh reality that my
life will be dependant on the integrity of this structure is starting to
sink in. Does anyone have one or two of the used Orndorff videos for sale or
rent? Not having riveted anything before, I think it might make sense to get
some perspective.
>
> THanks,
> Scott
> RV7A Emp
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot hole in wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Thanks for the note Dana (and everyone else!) - I went with a
doubler with a small disc of aluminum to fill the hole for now. I
like the idea of putting an OAT sensor there at some point.
It sounds like there might be a difference between the -7 and -6 in
that regard; the 6QB tie down hole is essentially ready for use; I
can screw the tie down in directly without any further work. The
pitot hole is through the spar flange, as you describe.
Grrr....I had forgotten about how my 6A project was delivered the
same day as Van's announced the RV7. :-).
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
http://www.notamd.com
Dana Overall said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall"
> <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Brad, if the "hole" is nearly on the lateral rivet line of the
> leading edge skin and you can see that the hole through the spar
> flange (important) by looking in the inspection panel hole, that
> is where the Van pitot would go. If the "hole" is about 1.5"
> forward of the skin joint line, and just through the skin and not
> the spar flange, that is your tiedown. Find you tiedown and
> stick it in and turn.........if it stays...........tie that baby
> down there.
>
> Vans didn't pre punch the pitot hole in the 7.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
>>
>>Brad, I believe you will find that (Other Hole) is treaded and is
>> for your "Wing Tie Down".
>
>
Brad Benson, Software Architect
Computer Data Strategies, Inc.
Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161
"What's another word for thesaurus?"
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Overpainting powder paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
I overpainted several powdercoated parts. Scotchbrite the heck out of it,
until when viewed at an angle with a bright light there is literally no
shine whatsoever to it, then paint. I did not prime, just painted. So far
it's holding up just fine, in fact as well as on any other surface.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 287.4 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Stewart" <davestewart@globalserve.net>
Subject: RV-List: Overpainting powder paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Stewart"
<davestewart@globalserve.net>
>
> I'm considering overpainting some of the (blindingly white) powdercoated
components, (gear mounts, maybe canopy frame), with Rustoleum "hammered" or
the like, to make them less obvious. I'd appreciate any comments on the
proper steps to prepare/paint the parts from anyone who's done this
successfully. Thanks.
> Dave (90252)
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
That is what I'll probably end up doing. Proseal is the way to go. That is
what I did
on my last plane that I helped build and after 400+ hours no leaks anywhere.
Its just
that last time I mentioned it several people reported good luck with the
fuel lube and
gasket job. Proseal may make access harder later, but that is far better
then leaky fuel tanks.
Steve
RV7A
canopy frame & wiring
Back to proseal for the last time.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Lube
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
<svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
> Ditto!!
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Pardue [mailto:n5lp@carlsbad.net]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Lube
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
> >
> >
> >Anybody have another supplier (besides ACS) for fuel lube?
> >
> >I want to use it to sandwich the fuel tank gaskets. Might have to proseal
> >everything which is not such a bad thing.
> >
>
> FWIW. I did not find it fun to remove the left tank at first annual to
> remove Fuel Lube sealed gasket and replace with Proseal sealed plate with
> no gasket (due to Fuel Lube deterioration and leakage). Nor did I find
> it fun to remove the right tank at the second annual to do the same.
>
> Lots of spare Fuel Lube in my hangar that I will never use.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 4 into one exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8@bigsky.net>
Gary,
Try www. skydynamics.com for 4-1 exhaust
Mauri
RV8 wings\tanks (still)
Polson,Mt.
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: 4 into one exhaust
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Had a friend ask me if I knew of anyone making a 4 into 1 exhaust for an
RV.
> He had one on his old RV-6 but does not know where he got it. His old
> engine was from Lycon and they recommened the 4 into 1 exhaust that he
had.
> His new RV has an engine from Performance Aero Engines and he wants the 4
> into 1 exhaust again.
>
> Can anyone send me a name with email, phone number, or web site to
contact?
>
> I am happy with my High Country Vetterman exhaust and would use it again.
> Different strokes for differnt folks.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,239 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | 4 into one exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
1-800-770-7287
Aircraft Exhaust Technologies, Inc.
5059 Industrial Ave.
Littlefork, Minnesota 56653
Noel and Yoshie Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
"We do builder assistance!"
Toll Free: 866-859-0390
info@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:info@blueskyaviation.net>
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Subject: RV-List: 4 into one exhaust
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Had a friend ask me if I knew of anyone making a 4 into 1 exhaust for an RV.
He had one on his old RV-6 but does not know where he got it. His old
engine was from Lycon and they recommened the 4 into 1 exhaust that he had.
His new RV has an engine from Performance Aero Engines and he wants the 4
into 1 exhaust again.
Can anyone send me a name with email, phone number, or web site to contact?
I am happy with my High Country Vetterman exhaust and would use it again.
Different strokes for differnt folks.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,239 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | superior engine quote |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Archive search didn't turn up what I was looking for. Neither did the
collection of RVator and Tony's (RIP) firewall forward book.
I asked for quotes on engines suitable for an RV-8. Superior sent me
O-360-A1A2 for 19,990
O-360-B1A2 $20,990
IO-360-B1A2 $22,990
and XP IO-360-A1A2 $21,990
They only give dimensions and drawings on the B1A2.
All these quotes include accessory option of magnetos, ignition harness,
starter, fuel system, spark plugs and fuel pump.
What's the difference between these numbers?
I'm really interested in using a fuel injected engine and avoiding all carb
quirks so what's the groups opinions on this selection compared to whatever
the heck else is out there that's lycoming related?
For example, from Van's catalog, Lycoming 180HP
Part Number = EA IO-360-M1B
Price = $27690.00
To me, this makes the Superior options a deal. That worries me 'cause I've
obviously overlooked something and I know I'm completely novice at the
engine game. Are the superior engines FAA certified or are they only
experimental? Is Superior the only company that's apparently designed a
Lycoming "upgrade" engine?
TIA,
Lucky
Message 19
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| Subject: | Clamp for nose strut fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Tim......I tried that, but it didn't work for me. That places the worm drives
on the sides instead of the rear, so they come further forward when you rotate
the nosewheel, and still interfered.
Did yours clear alright?
Think I'll just do what Mark did. Maybe I can find a few dozen other things to
buy from McMaster- Carr to justify the shipping........and make a 79 cent part
cost $50.
Gary
Time: 07:54:40 PM PST US
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Clamp for nose strut fairing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
I took two little short narrow ones and hooked 'em up in series.
Tim
---
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner@wans.net>
Fellow List Members,
I am selling these Hand-Tools for a friend of mine, who will not be able to use
these anymore. They were all bought in 2000 and have only seen service on one
empennage, so they are barely used / -barely broken in. I can send digital
pictures on the items in case one is not familiar with them. As I am just helping
out, I would prefer to sell all at once to save you shipping cost (and myself
some time). Make me an acceptable offer on everything
Here we go:
AVERY KIT-102 (2X Rivet Gun Kit)
8 out of 12 Rivet Sets still have their protective plastic coating on them!
(New $400) Asking $300
AVERY Part # 575 (Hand Seamer 3.5" Jaw)
(New $30) Asking $20
AVERY Part # 500 (Fluting Plier)
(New $30) Asking $20
AVERY Part # 1042 (Edge Rolling Tool)
(New $14) Asking $10
"WISS" Metal Snips Set (Red/Yellow/Green)
(New $63) Asking $45
"FLO-RIDER" Air Grinder
(New $160) Asking $100
*********************************
The following CRAFTSMAN Shop Tools are available as well:
* 12" Band Saw w/Stand
* 2/3 hp Variable Speed Drill Press w/Stand
* 6" Disc Sander & 2x42" Belt Sander w/Stand
* 6" Grinder w/ Stand & Scotch Brite Polishing Wheel
All these Shop Tools were bought in 2001, and are in meticulous condition. I haven't
figured out the complexity of Packing & Shipping of these items yet. Everything
is located in SUNNY Albuquerque, Nuevo Mexico.
Feel free to email me with any questions.
Sincerely,
Konrad
Connywerner@wans.net
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Need Sensenich prop spacer for 0-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Do Not Archive
Thanks Sam and Hal for the PVC pipe spacer suggestions. I'm going to give it
a whirl, although I confess to being confused about how it can be centered
accurately.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Anybody doing Transition Training In Texas or Florida in |
a 6A?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chopper" <mkellems@tnweb.com>
Why not transition in your own RV6A ? I am a CFII with my own RV4 in Tn.
While you are flying off the restrictions, why not get dual in the plane you
will be flying all the time. Contact me if you are interested. Mike Kellems
mkellems@tnweb.com Lewisburg,Tn.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Anybody doing Transition Training In Texas or Florida in a
6A?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> My rv6a is ready to fly. I still need a DAR for
> inspection but after 8 1/2 years of building it's time
> to change hats. I will be in Florida the last part of
> this month or will be willing to fly to Texas. The
> weather around Illinois this time of year is pretty
> iffy, so would like to find a warmer place on earth. I
> would prefer a 6A to transition in.
>
> Dan DeNeal
> RV6A - N256GD
> Hoopeston, Illinois
> (217) 283-6157
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC]
>
>
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC]
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
My wings are stored in the corner of the shop, sealed with the cork
gasket and fuel lube. So, if you were me, you'd change to proseal
before I put the wings on for good?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003: The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Steve J Hurlbut
> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 11:51 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Lube
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
> That is what I'll probably end up doing. Proseal is the way
> to go. That is what I did on my last plane that I helped
> build and after 400+ hours no leaks anywhere. Its just that
> last time I mentioned it several people reported good luck
> with the fuel lube and gasket job. Proseal may make access
> harder later, but that is far better then leaky fuel tanks.
>
> Steve
> RV7A
> canopy frame & wiring
> Back to proseal for the last time.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Lube
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
> <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
> >
> > Ditto!!
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Larry Pardue [mailto:n5lp@carlsbad.net]
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Lube
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> >
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
> > >
> > >
> > >Anybody have another supplier (besides ACS) for fuel lube?
> > >
> > >I want to use it to sandwich the fuel tank gaskets. Might have to
> > >proseal everything which is not such a bad thing.
> > >
> >
> > FWIW. I did not find it fun to remove the left tank at
> first annual
> > to remove Fuel Lube sealed gasket and replace with Proseal sealed
> > plate with no gasket (due to Fuel Lube deterioration and leakage).
> > Nor did I find it fun to remove the right tank at the
> second annual to
> > do the same.
> >
> > Lots of spare Fuel Lube in my hangar that I will never use.
> >
> > Larry Pardue
> > Carlsbad, NM
> >
> > RV-6 N441LP Flying
> > http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
Does it add anything to sandwich (and saturate?) the cork gasket in Proseal?
Or, is simply prosealing the plate to tank preferred?
Robert
Randall Henderson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
>
> > FWIW. I did not find it fun to remove the left tank at first annual to
> > remove Fuel Lube sealed gasket and replace with Proseal sealed plate with
> > no gasket (due to Fuel Lube deterioration and leakage). Nor did I find
> > it fun to remove the right tank at the second annual to do the same.
>
> I second that. Search the archives and you'll find a bunch of people who's
> leaky tanks were a result of trying to get around prosealing the plates on.
> Kind of defeats the purpose of "just in case I have to take them off to fix
> a leaky tank..."
>
> I did have to replace a sender that went bad, and while I admit it wasn't
> much fun prying the prosealed-on plate off of there, it wasn't all that big
> a deal, And the plates themselves have never leaked.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Left over parts two F 804 L |
--> RV-List message posted by: "phil jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
The good news I am just about finished with my RV7A wing. The bad news is I have
two parts labeled F 804 L leftover. Does anyone know where they go?
Thanks Phil Jones
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Left over parts two F 804 L |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Phil, as long as you have two flaps and each has and end rib on each
side................that's where they would go on your third flap:-)
I hate it when I extra, or not enough..........
Seriously Phil, that number represents two outer ribs for the left flap.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "phil jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Left over parts two F 804 L
>Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 16:38:07 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "phil jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
>
>The good news I am just about finished with my RV7A wing. The bad news is I
>have two parts labeled F 804 L leftover. Does anyone know where they go?
>
>
>Thanks Phil Jones
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re:Leftover parts two F-804L |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
The number F-804L - should be a RV-8 fuselage part.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Anybody doing Transition Training In Texas or Florida in |
a 6A?
--> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com
Yes I am very interested in training. I also have a friend who is building a
7A and I think he will be finished about the same time I will.(two or three
months from now.)
Will you be avaliable during that time?
Thanks
Rollie & Rod
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Overpainting Powdercoat |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Dave..
I have painted over some of the powdercoat. Just scuff real good with ScotchBrite
pads and then I overcoated with Rustoleum Hammer Finish and it looks real
good. BTW, I bought my hammer finish in quart cans and sprayed my entire interior
using a Bink's Model 7 and a touchup gun which usually gives me excellant
results but gave me only mediocre results. I then bought rattle cans and got
excellant results. I found that lacquer thinner or mineral spirits did not allow
the paint to "hammer" up to that nice mottle finish but the spray cans have
the correct formula thinners which will do better. I now use only the rattle
cans. The paint skins over fast, cures slow, but becomes very hard and, I
hope, durable after a few days.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
Finishing up
Northfield, MN
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Keith and Jean Williams" <kandjwilliams@earthlink.net>
Last Saturday I figured out why so many planes have that little wheel up
front. The one just behind the prop. I had a prop strike with my RV6.
It was a beautiful winter morning, but windy - 20 gusting to 28, temp about
+10. I had been flying for over an hour and done several landings. It was
fun and good practice - nothing like a cold windy winter day for those
"leaping into the air" RV take-offs and climbs.
After a break for doughnuts and coffee it was time to head back to the home
field. I was on the ramp and just starting to taxi, using more than usual
"breakout" power (directly into that wind) when I saw another plane taxiing
across in front of me. I quickly applied those great RV brakes and, before
I knew it, was looking out the windscreen down at the concrete and hearing
twanga-twanga-twanga and then silence - just the sound of the breeze. Then
a "thump" as the tail came back down. Then some more breeze.
This was pure pilot error - failure to reduce power before applying brakes
and (probably, I don't remember for sure) not having the stick all the way
back. Not to mention having a bright white airplane "sneak-up" on
me......right out there in all that sunshine.
So that's the lesson part of this post - perhaps useful for you few
taildragger pilots out there that may have, like me, let your procedures get
a little sloppy after years of enjoying the excellent ground handling
qualities of your RV.
Now to the question part of this post. My 180HP O360A1A is in a box and on
the road to tear-down (it is high time with 20+ year old overhaul). Now I'm
thinking about a new prop. The old prop (I use the term "old" loosely) was
a new Hartzell 230 hours ago. When I called to order a new one, the folks
at Van's told me that lead time would be at least 8 weeks...but Hartzell has
a redesign in process and Van's is suggesting that customers wait for that -
perhaps three or more months. I called Hartzell and could not get the
person I talked with to tell me what the new design is all about.
So question #1 - can any of you tell me what is afoot at Hartzell. I have
read about the restrictions (2,600 rpm, etc.). I am not flying aerobatics
and do not plan to have my engine modified. From what you know, is there a
reason for me to wait for the new design? It seemed to me that my old prop
was great.
Question #2. Like Jerry Cochran who posted yesterday, I would be interested
in performance comparisons between Hartzell CS and Sensenich fixed pitch. I
like flying with the constant speed. But a Sensenich is available now (3
weeks they say). I could put my governor away for now, have Aero Sport Power
convert the engine and fly fixed pitch for a while. If someone comes up
with the performance comparison he requested (Sensenich vs. Hartzell for 180
HP) please post to the list or let me know off line. Or, I would appreciate
comments from anyone who has flown both CS and fixed.
Question #3. I'm looking for a new prop. Anybody have a good one for sale?
Keith Williams
Moline, IL
Message 31
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| Subject: | [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
Subject: AN Hardware Chart
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.01.18.2003/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures@matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Yeeehaaaawwww! Finally got the engine hung on my -8A today.....red and
black O-360-A1A from Bart at Aerosport Power. Sure is a beautiful thing
to behold, and nice to be on to something other than sanding fiberglass
(well, I do have to fit/trim the cowl, but the sanding is already done on
everything--cowl included--except some touchup on the canopy skirt...).
And now I can take that sawhorse out from under the tail since she sits
proudly on the gear unassisted.
Just had to pass the joy around a bit : ) Thanks to my buddy Alan
Kritzman for the help, and inspiration since his -8 is now flying...
Do Not Archive
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finally on to FWF and fun stuff......!
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> My wings are stored in the corner of the shop, sealed with the cork
> gasket and fuel lube. So, if you were me, you'd change to proseal
> before I put the wings on for good?
That's exactly what I did, after reading this exact same discussion on the
RV-list 4 years ago. Was kind of wishing I didn't have to clean off all that
fuel lube but it wasn't all that bad.
Someone else asked about using the gasket with proseal. I just used proseal
alone but I suppose with the gasket in there it'd be easier to get a blade
in between to get the two parts separated. I just thought the gasket might
deteriorate eventually so I left it out but thats probably being overly
paranoid. Or is it?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Millenium Cylinders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Question: Has anyone out there flown for a while with Lycoming
cylinders on their RV, and then switched to Millenium? Specifically,
did you notice any change in indicated CHT's, other conditions similar?
I'm wondering if there might be subtle but important differences in how
they fashion their CHT ports as compared to Lycoming.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 251 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Static Air Kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
My static kit had the T.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive
> Speak of things missing from their option kits, can someone tell me if
> the 3/16" tee is supposed to be included with the optional static air
> kit? Mine had everything else, but not this. I have since located a
> tee ("F" tee worked nice) but the local Home Depot and Loew's didn't
> have it, only 3/16" splices, and they did have the 1/4" O.D.x 0.170"
> I.D. hose that was included in the kit.
> Marty in Brentwood TN
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