Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:51 AM - Re: Carpet attachment? (Larry Pardue)
2. 05:06 AM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Michael J. Veth)
3. 05:18 AM - Alodine and Capacitive Fuel level Senders (David Read)
4. 06:23 AM - Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
5. 06:44 AM - Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting (RV6 Flyer)
6. 08:26 AM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Charlie & Tupper England)
7. 08:27 AM - Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting (Gannon, Terence)
8. 09:13 AM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Phat Phil)
9. 09:22 AM - Brake fluid seepage (Rick Galati)
10. 09:43 AM - Re: Brake fluid seepage (John Starn)
11. 09:48 AM - Re: Brake fluid seepage (Brian Denk)
12. 09:50 AM - Re: Alodine and Capacitive Fuel level Senders (Curt Hoffman)
13. 09:52 AM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (RV6 Flyer)
14. 10:19 AM - Re: Brake fluid seepage (Vanremog@aol.com)
15. 10:19 AM - Re: Alodine and Capacitive Fuel level Senders (Vanremog@aol.com)
16. 10:21 AM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Dan Checkoway)
17. 10:23 AM - Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting (Elsa & Henry)
18. 10:27 AM - Fw: Fw: Hours for wiring... (C. Rabaut)
19. 10:28 AM - Drilling Cowl Hinges (HCRV6@aol.com)
20. 10:31 AM - Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting (Dick DeCramer)
21. 10:39 AM - Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting (Gannon, Terence)
22. 10:50 AM - Fw: Be Aware FAA can pull anyones license without recourse.. SECURITY (C. Rabaut)
23. 10:56 AM - Fw: Hours for wiring... (C. Rabaut)
24. 11:01 AM - Re: Brake fluid seepage (Chris)
25. 11:10 AM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Chris)
26. 11:13 AM - Superior engine info (Eustace Bowhay)
27. 11:14 AM - Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting (Chris)
28. 11:33 AM - >Re:Brake fluid seepage (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
29. 11:45 AM - Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting (Gannon, Terence)
30. 12:19 PM - Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
31. 12:59 PM - Re: Superior engine info (Jerry Springer)
32. 01:07 PM - Re: Superior engine info (Sam Buchanan)
33. 02:29 PM - For Sale (Bruce Knoll)
34. 02:29 PM - It's a Boy...RV related, trust me. (Dana Overall)
35. 02:43 PM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Dave Bristol)
36. 03:10 PM - Re: For Sale ()
37. 06:14 PM - landing light question (Roger Crandell)
38. 06:33 PM - Re: landing light question tests=X_ACCEPT_LANG version=2.40 (Kyle Boatright)
39. 06:43 PM - GPS Ant Cable (Duane Bentley)
40. 06:50 PM - > Re:Wingtip mounting (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
41. 07:15 PM - Re: For Sale (Jim Jewell)
42. 07:30 PM - Fw: Wing kit (Bruce Knoll)
43. 07:36 PM - Re: Hours for wiring... (David Aronson)
44. 08:10 PM - Basic Aerobatics by Wayne Handley at Nut Tree (David Aronson)
45. 08:25 PM - Re: Basic Aerobatics by Wayne Handley at Nut Tree (Karie Daniel)
46. 09:16 PM - Re: Be Aware FAA can pull anyones license without recourse.. SECURITY (Tracy Crook)
47. 09:19 PM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Phat Phil)
48. 09:25 PM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Phat Phil)
49. 09:31 PM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Phat Phil)
50. 09:37 PM - Re: Superior engine info (kempthornes)
51. 09:42 PM - Vertical Stab ?s ()
52. 10:00 PM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Dan Checkoway)
53. 10:14 PM - Engine Available (JNice51355@aol.com)
54. 10:18 PM - Re: Superior engine info (Jerry)
55. 10:23 PM - Re: Drilling Cowl Hinges (Mark Phillips)
56. 10:56 PM - Re: Vertical Stab ?s (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Carpet attachment? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
> Same with my sub floor material. I went over this decision for awhile
> thinking of all the alternatives including .032 aluminum sheet and a few
> others and finally decided that a hardboard subfloor offered the best
> compromise of weight, durability, cost, ease of installation, etc. Custom
> made fiberglass honeycomb core panels would probably be the best and
> lightest possible solution but alas were not something I felt like
pursuing
> at this time for reasons of cost, time, and available facilities.
>
Perhaps "custom made fiberglass honeycomb core panels" would be the best and
lightest solution if you already assume the need for additional flooring,
and some people may really need or want carpeting and floor insulation.
However I have never regretted my decision to put absolutely nothing on the
floor, but a little primer, and have received no complaints from anyone
else. I think the ultimate best and lightest solution is to not even put
primer on the floor.
I was also very glad I had nothing on the floor when I was having brake
fluid leaks in that area.
My mother, who always has comfort complaints when she rides in an airliner,
commented that my (carpetless) RV-6 is more comfortable than a Boeing.
Just another viewpoint.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael J. Veth" <vethm@vsrtechnology.com>
You can also read about the potential advantages/disadvantages
electronic ignition (and lean-of-peak operation) on the CAFE site:
http://www.cafefoundation.org/research.htm
David Burton wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> Take a look at Randy's web page discussing this for a data point or two...
>
> http://www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob Miller" <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> To: <RV-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Is Lightspeed Worth It?
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Hi guys
> >
> > To all of you flying that have upgraded to the Lightspeed Ignition: Would
> > you do it again? Is it worth the money, the time, and effort to replace
> > the right mag?
> >
> > Thinking hard about this one.
> >
> > Rob Miller
> > -8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
> >
> >
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Alodine and Capacitive Fuel level Senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Read" <david.read@evs.com.au>
G'day
Has anyone installed Vans Capacitive senders in fuel tanks where the skins
ribs etc were treated with alodine??
How did it go?
David Read
RV7A
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
What are the wing tips made of I thought they were made with polyester resin
not epoxy if they are is it all right to use epoxy on cured polyester resin?
Bill Higgins
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
It is ok to do an EPOXY lay up on a curred polyester resin part. It is NOT
OK to do a polyester lay up on a cured Epoxy part.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,248 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: Wingtip Mounting
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
What are the wing tips made of I thought they were made with polyester resin
not epoxy if they are is it all right to use epoxy on cured polyester resin?
Bill Higgins
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Dave Bristol wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
>But, almost any mechanic at almost any airport can repair or replace your
>mags if you have a problem - can you say the same about your Lightspeed? I
>had a mag problem on the way to OSH 2 years ago and the FBO at the airport I
>landed at in Kansas had all the parts in stock to fix it. I was on my way in
>a couple of hours. I remember being very happy that I had a good old antique
>Bendix!
>The electronic ignitions have a lot going for them but I have a hard time
>getting past the potential maintenance problem and the initial cost.
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>
snipped
I can understand the concern, but could the concern arise from the
justifiable paranoia from the unreliability of mags? My take is that
dual mags originated before big-bore cylinders & were needed because of
poor reliability, not the need for better flame fronts. If you can get
improved burn from the hotter spark and much higher reliability of
electronic ignition (minimizing the likelihood of unscheduled service)
it seems like a good thing to me.
I'm pretty 'cheap' & would have a hard time replacing a working mag with
electronic, but if ordering a new engine or replacing a defective mag it
might be money well spent.
Charlie
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon@trican.ca>
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Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phat Phil <phugoid@attbi.com>
While flying a friends plane recently that is equipped with Lightspeed
ignition we had a charging system failure. If we had 2 mags we would
have prop started it and flown home. We had a backup handheld radio but
no backup battery to run the ign. so we were stranded.
Phil
Charlie & Tupper England wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> Dave Bristol wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>>
>>But, almost any mechanic at almost any airport can repair or replace your
>>mags if you have a problem - can you say the same about your Lightspeed? I
>>had a mag problem on the way to OSH 2 years ago and the FBO at the airport I
>>landed at in Kansas had all the parts in stock to fix it. I was on my way in
>>a couple of hours. I remember being very happy that I had a good old antique
>>Bendix!
>>The electronic ignitions have a lot going for them but I have a hard time
>>getting past the potential maintenance problem and the initial cost.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> snipped
>
> I can understand the concern, but could the concern arise from the
> justifiable paranoia from the unreliability of mags? My take is that
> dual mags originated before big-bore cylinders & were needed because of
> poor reliability, not the need for better flame fronts. If you can get
> improved burn from the hotter spark and much higher reliability of
> electronic ignition (minimizing the likelihood of unscheduled service)
> it seems like a good thing to me.
>
> I'm pretty 'cheap' & would have a hard time replacing a working mag with
> electronic, but if ordering a new engine or replacing a defective mag it
> might be money well spent.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Brake fluid seepage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
After filling my brake system with fluid, I was pleased that all
seemed okay with no apparent leaks. But on one 69-F-04x02 brass elbow
which happens to be attached to a copilots master cylinder, a minor but
irritating seepage problem exists. Over a period of time, I have
incrementally torqued this elbow down a little at a time to stop the seepage
which emanates from the threads of this elbow where it attaches to the master
cylinder. I finally succeeded in stopping the leak but now the elbow
has one leg pointing directly at the brake pedal. With its attached 44NSR
tube, access to the brake pedal is compromised. What can I do
to clock this brass elbow correctly and eliminate the seepage? As a data
point on the initial installation, I did not use any thread dressing. Is
teflon tape acceptable in this application? How about Tite-Seal?
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seepage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Make sure that the elbow is an "adaptor" type. Pipe threads (these are
tapered) on the end that goes in the cylinder. The other end has straight
threads for hose connections. If you have straight threads on both outlets
it won't seal at the cylinder. Use a micrometer, two flat edges to "see" the
taper or not. Or find an old plumber, he can tell just by looking. Do Not
archive. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid seepage
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seepage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>After filling my brake system with fluid, I was pleased that all
>seemed okay with no apparent leaks. But on one 69-F-04x02 brass elbow
>which happens to be attached to a copilots master cylinder, a minor but
>irritating seepage problem exists. Over a period of time, I have
>incrementally torqued this elbow down a little at a time to stop the
>seepage
>which emanates from the threads of this elbow where it attaches to the
>master
>cylinder. I finally succeeded in stopping the leak but now the elbow
>has one leg pointing directly at the brake pedal. With its attached 44NSR
>tube, access to the brake pedal is compromised. What can I do
>to clock this brass elbow correctly and eliminate the seepage? As a data
>point on the initial installation, I did not use any thread dressing. Is
>teflon tape acceptable in this application? How about Tite-Seal?
>
>
>--- Rick Galati
Rick,
That fitting may be stressed to the point where stripping the threads could
soon happen. I'd trash the fitting, install a quality Swagelok stainless
compression fitting and try again. Teflon tape is generally considered a
no-no in airplanes, as small bits of the tape can get into the fluid stream
and lodge somewhere important.
I could not get the kit supplied brass fittings to seal reliably on my
master cylinders so once I replaced them with the Swageloks, I haven't had
any seepage whatsoever. For dressing the pipe threads, I used a tiny dab of
fuel lube.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
flying 3 yrs.
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Alodine and Capacitive Fuel level Senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
I alodined all my tank parts and everything so far went fine. The electrical
checks you do before closing up all were fine. Of course I don't have any
fuel in the tank experience yet.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings done working on tail
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Read" <david.read@evs.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: Alodine and Capacitive Fuel level Senders
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Read" <david.read@evs.com.au>
>
> G'day
>
> Has anyone installed Vans Capacitive senders in fuel tanks where the skins
> ribs etc were treated with alodine??
> How did it go?
>
> David Read
> RV7A
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
The two spark plug in aircraft engines are necessary for good combustion in
the large bore.
See:
Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals,
John B. Heywood,
McGraw-Hill 1988. ISBN 0-07-028637-X, page 374.
An on line report can be found at:
http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/ignition1.pdf
go to page 4 of this document and read the paragraph on DUAL IGNITION
OPERATION.
As someone else on the list stated, there are 3 good reports on ignition at:
http://www.cafefoundation.org/research.htm
There are also some other topics that RV builders may be interested in.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,248 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
snipped
I can understand the concern, but could the concern arise from the
justifiable paranoia from the unreliability of mags? My take is that
dual mags originated before big-bore cylinders & were needed because of
poor reliability, not the need for better flame fronts. If you can get
improved burn from the hotter spark and much higher reliability of
electronic ignition (minimizing the likelihood of unscheduled service)
it seems like a good thing to me.
I'm pretty 'cheap' & would have a hard time replacing a working mag with
electronic, but if ordering a new engine or replacing a defective mag it
might be money well spent.
Charlie
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seepage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/26/2003 9:23:38 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rick07x@earthlink.net writes:
> As a data
> point on the initial installation, I did not use any thread dressing. Is
> teflon tape acceptable in this application? How about Tite-Seal?
I would recommend Permetex brand pipe thread sealant (used to be Loctite PST)
for sealing pipe threads and avoid Teflon tape like the plague.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 586hrs)
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Alodine and Capacitive Fuel level Senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/26/2003 5:19:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
david.read@evs.com.au writes:
> Has anyone installed Vans Capacitive senders in fuel tanks where the skins
> ribs etc were treated with alodine?
Alodine (chem film) does not reduce the conductivity of joints made in
aluminum as does anodizing, so there should be no problem.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 586hrs)
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> ignition we had a charging system failure. If we had 2 mags we would
> have prop started it and flown home.
That makes the case for running a hybrid setup...one impulse coupled mag and
one electronic ignition.
Same deal if the alternator fails in flight. Even if you run the battery
all the way down and lose the electronic ignition, you've still got that mag
to fall back on.
I'm very curious to find out how much more performance you can actually get
out of dual electronic as opposed to single w/mag.
Sure seems like elec+mag is the best way to go as of today.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Don't know what happened, but the message arrived from Terrence Gannon
completely as a bunch of letters and numbers. Code?
Henry.
Message 18
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Subject: | Hours for wiring... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Charlie,
They say we find humor in things we identify with on a personal level.
If this is true... my condolences to you, because I've been there too.
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Hours for wiring...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Chuck,
> Thanks for the laugh! I'm passing this on to all my avionic tech buddies!
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A cockpit systems stuff
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >
> >Bill,
> >
> > It's a simple mathematical equation... you take the total length of
> >each individual wire (or clusters there of) and multiple that by the
number
> >of connecting terminals, then divide by the number of switches, subtract
the
> >total number of shorts you caused from the total number of fuses or
circuit
> >breakers you now discovered you better install, then add the total number
of
> >hours you have lost sleep worrying about whether you accidentally cross
> >wired something/anything, then take the remainder and square it by the
> >actual number of times you've bit your lip, cussed out loud (soft
grumblings
> >don't count), pulled out your now graying hair, or watched sparks (and/or
> >smoke) come from the components you're installing/testing. And viola'
> >see "simple"
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> >do not archive
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Bill VonDane <n8wv@vondane.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Hours for wiring...
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <n8wv@vondane.com>
> >>
> >> Anyone out there keep track of exactly how long (how many hours) it
took
> >them to
> >> wire their RV?
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >>
> >> -Bill VonDane
> >> RV-8A ~ 86.5 hrs
> >> www.vondane.com
> >>
> >> do not archive
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Drilling Cowl Hinges |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
OK Listers, I admit it, I'm missing something pretty simple I guess because
no one ever mentions this in discussions about the cowl. I'm ready to drill
the vertical and horizontal hinges that attach the bottom cowl to the top
cowl and fuselage and I do not understand how to hold the hinge halves in
place against the cowl halves while drilling them. It seems to me that it
requires a triple jointed contortionist with extremely long thin arms to be
able to reach in through the front to hold them. There must be a better way,
what am I missing here?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Yes, but you cannot use polyester on Epoxy item.
Dick DeCramer
----- Original Message -----
From: <BillRVSIX@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: Wingtip Mounting
> --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>
> What are the wing tips made of I thought they were made with polyester
resin
> not epoxy if they are is it all right to use epoxy on cured polyester
resin?
>
> Bill Higgins
>
>
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon@trican.ca>
Bill -- I have been using the West System epoxy to glue in the recesses
for my nav lights, and it is working just great. The are specific
instructions in the West System User Guide for preparation of polyester
resin surfaces -- about the only additional step is to use a surface
prep cleaner (I can check the docs and send you the info, if you'd like)
on the polyester resin-based surface. For the record, I have emailed
Gougeon (West System manufacturer) a few questions at various times, and
they have always come back with very prompt, knowledgeable replies. An
extremely well run business and a great product (uncompensated
endorsement!). Hope this helps...regards...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
PS. My apologies for the previous, garbled version of this message...
-----Original Message-----
From: BillRVSIX@aol.com [mailto:BillRVSIX@aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: Wingtip Mounting
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
What are the wing tips made of I thought they were made with polyester
resin
not epoxy if they are is it all right to use epoxy on cured polyester
resin?
Bill Higgins
Message 22
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|
Subject: | Be Aware FAA can pull anyones license without recourse.. |
SECURITY
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Gordon makes a very valid point. With the new "Homeland Security" Agency
taking the lead, ALL government agencies are now feeling a surge of power.
I know where of I speak (20+ years in law enforcement) and I can assure you
that each step towards a "Police State" is a giant leap away from democracy
& freedom. Once lost, these priceless/precious things will not be easily
recovered. Stand up & be counted as a free man, or surely you will fall in
line and be numbered as sheep.
Chuck
do not archive (but as soon as I hit "send", our government will have it
filed under my name via their "Carnivore" system)
----- Original Message -----
From: Gordon or Marge Comfort <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
>
> I believe that these rules represent additional steps toward a police
> state. I believe that writing to the FAA or the TSA to be of little
value.
> I believe that if these rules are to be changed we must lean as hard as we
> can on our elected representatives, both individually and collectively via
> AOPA and EAA and the like. This thread about license suspension upon
> accusation reminds of the "j'accuse" and "carte blanche". It is the
> handmaiden of the TFR attitude. There is no due process anywhere. This is
> wrong. It is not what the USA is about. It should not become what the
> United States of America is about.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
Message 23
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|
Subject: | Hours for wiring... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Liar, Liar, pants on fire.
----- Original Message -----
From: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
---"Sure, it was easy, your could do it in
> a snap".
>
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
> Flying real SOOOON
Message 24
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|
Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seepage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
Rick Galati wrote:
> After filling my brake system with fluid, I was pleased that all
> seemed okay with no apparent leaks. But on one 69-F-04x02 brass elbow
> which happens to be attached to a copilots master cylinder, a minor but
> irritating seepage problem exists. Over a period of time, I have
> incrementally torqued this elbow down a little at a time to stop the seepage
> which emanates from the threads of this elbow where it attaches to the master
> cylinder. I finally succeeded in stopping the leak but now the elbow
> has one leg pointing directly at the brake pedal. With its attached 44NSR
> tube, access to the brake pedal is compromised. What can I do
> to clock this brass elbow correctly and eliminate the seepage? As a data
> point on the initial installation, I did not use any thread dressing. Is
> teflon tape acceptable in this application? How about Tite-Seal?
This is one of the many reasons I HATE pipe thread fittings. Whenever I have a
component with pipe thread ports in it, the first thing I do is put a straight,
pipe thread to 37 degree flair fitting in that port. Then I can use a swivel
elbow and point the elbow any direction that I want. This method takes up a
little more space than a pipe elbow and it is a little more money, but it sure
does make life a lot easier.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
From what I have heard electronic ignitions don't need much battery power. If
I
go that route I plan on having 2 electronic ignitions and backup battery that
will be dedicated for backup of only that system. I think I may even make it an
alkaline battery so I don't have to worry about hooking up a charging circuit to
it, and just replacing the battery after every use or once a year whichever
comes first.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 26
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|
Subject: | Superior engine info |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Bart Lalonde of Aero Sport Power dropped in for a visit a couple a days ago and
we got on the subject of the recent thread on the RV-list.
Aero Sport Engines are built entirely from certified parts including the case.
The only items not certified would be an accessory such as electronic ignition
if requested by the buyer.
Many of the certified parts now available for these engines are improvements over
the older ones and contribute to a better overall engine and greater safety.
I can assure anyone that safety is Aero Sport's top priority, I am running two
of them.
If the insurance companies are having a problem with any of these engines it would
seem to me that they are not keeping up to the times. They could refer to
this months advertisement on page 43 in Sport Aviation by Superior Air Parts which
lists the improvements available by using these parts.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
Message 27
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|
Subject: | Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
I am about 99.99% sure that was an attachment. And if I am correct the mailing
list software doesn't let attachments go through.
Chris
do not archive
Elsa & Henry wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Don't know what happened, but the message arrived from Terrence Gannon
> completely as a bunch of letters and numbers. Code?
> Henry.
Message 28
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|
Subject: | Re: >Re:Brake fluid seepage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
You should use "Fuel Lube" on ALL fittings,ESPECIALLY dissimilar metals! The
fuel lube will lubricate to avoid galling and stripping threads , and will
seal in the threads.
I learned the hard way, too !
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 29
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|
Subject: | Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon@trican.ca>
Actually, it was the .01% of the time when it wasn't an attachment, but
rather the encoding of my hokey, web-based mail reader. Sorry 'bout
that folks.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris [mailto:chrisw3@cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: Wingtip Mounting
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
I am about 99.99% sure that was an attachment. And if I am correct the
mailing list software doesn't let attachments go through.
Chris
do not archive
Elsa & Henry wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
> --> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Don't know what happened, but the message arrived from Terrence Gannon
> completely as a bunch of letters and numbers. Code? Henry.
Message 30
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Subject: | Re: >Re: Wingtip Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Thanks Terry for the reply when I decide I will give them a call for the
info. SO get back to building! Hehe.
Bill Highness
Do not archive
Message 31
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|
Subject: | Re: Superior engine info |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Along these same line I spoke to Van about this at breakfast yesterday
morning. We got to talking about the insurance topic on the RV-List
and his comment was that it was news to him that they were not wanting
to insure these other engines. He said that he was asked about the XP
engines and his only comment to them was that he had no experience
himself with one of these engines. I believe JT that he said it was
you that had asked him.(I could be wrong about that)He said that
the insurance program they are involved in came about because the
insurance company came to him to set this program up, he did not
seek them out. He certainly does not, and is not advocating any RV
be denied insurance because of engine type, although I believe that most
everyone know his feelings about auto engines. I am trying to be a
little bit vague here because I did not have is permission to repeat
anything he said. (I should have asked for it)
Jerry
do not archive
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
> Bart Lalonde of Aero Sport Power dropped in for a visit a couple a days ago and
we got on the subject of the recent thread on the RV-list.
>
> Aero Sport Engines are built entirely from certified parts including the case.
The only items not certified would be an accessory such as electronic ignition
if requested by the buyer.
>
> Many of the certified parts now available for these engines are improvements
over the older ones and contribute to a better overall engine and greater safety.
>
> I can assure anyone that safety is Aero Sport's top priority, I am running two
of them.
>
> If the insurance companies are having a problem with any of these engines it
would seem to me that they are not keeping up to the times. They could refer to
this months advertisement on page 43 in Sport Aviation by Superior Air Parts
which lists the improvements available by using these parts.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
Subject: | Re: Superior engine info |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
<snip>
> I can assure anyone that safety is Aero Sport's top priority, I am running two
of them.
>
> If the insurance companies are having a problem with any of these engines it
would seem to me that they are not keeping up to the times.
<snip>
Eustace, I couldn't agree more. I think when the dust settles on this
issue, we are going to find out that a great deal of "Wolf!" has been
screamed on this list about the questionable insurability of the
Superior/Aerosport engines, and that the vast majority of insurance
agents will have no problems recommending full coverage for their
customers who have these fine engines.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
Message 33
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat@msn.com>
Builders, I have a complete pre-punched wing kit that is still in Van's boxes.
Opened and inspected, but absolutely no work done. New kit from Van costs $4,300+.
Located in Greeley, CO. Make offer. Off List Please.
Bruce
tripodcat@msn.com
Message 34
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|
Subject: | It's a Boy...RV related, trust me. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
We have a new delivery to the RV world, as of yesterday at 4PM.
Daniel Wier stopped in with his new 7 emp., a handful of tools he has come
up with on ebay, and one familiar looking rivet collection. We started work
on his emp. at 8:30 and fairly shortly thereafter, he was squeezing his
first rivet on his RV. http://rvflying.tripod.com/p1250009.jpg
It wasn't very long afterwards he was bucking one his first rivets (soon to
followed by learning how to drill one out:-) Yes, all you prior pre punch
guys, you put the rear spar in last on the work bench.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/p1250016.jpg
He's feeling pretty good about himself about now with that rear spar going
in http://rvflying.tripod.com/p1250019.jpg
We have a new delivery to the RV world, and it's proud Papa.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/p1250002.jpg
We started work at 8:30 and by 4PM we had deburred every hole and edge,
primed it all, drilling wire conduit holes and riveted everything. Daniel
got to experience dimpling, bucking, squeezing, drilling out, resqueezing
and the use of that 3x,4x,5x,6x....whatever X that bad boy gun of his it.
It just looks at AN3s and they're bucked.
Anyway, what do you guys want to bet...............Daniel has it leaning up
next to his TV during the Super Bowl wondering just what is more
super.........that emp or that game. I know which one gets my vote.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 35
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|
Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
I'd like to see some actual data on the " unreliability of mags". Other than the
failure in my RV6 two years ago (which probably was caused by poor maintenance),
I
have never had a failure or aborted a takeoff in 35 years of flying because of
a
bad mag - some bad plugs but never a mag. But, my point was that if you ever
should have mag problem, almost any mechanic can fix it.
Dave
>
> I can understand the concern, but could the concern arise from the
> justifiable paranoia from the unreliability of mags?
Message 36
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Which model???
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: For Sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat@msn.com>
>
> Builders, I have a complete pre-punched wing kit that is still in Van's
boxes. Opened and inspected, but absolutely no work done. New kit from Van
costs $4,300+. Located in Greeley, CO. Make offer. Off List Please.
>
> Bruce
> tripodcat@msn.com
>
>
Message 37
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|
Subject: | landing light question |
tests=X_ACCEPT_LANG
version=2.40
--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Crandell <rwc@swcp.com>
Do the landing lights recessed into the sheared fiberglass wing tips
provide equivalent lighting compared to the lights mounted in the
leading edge of an RV6 or any RV for that matter? If I choose the
leading edge to mount the lights, does it matter if you place them just
outboard of the fuel tanks or out next the the wing tip?
Thanks
Roger Crandell
Message 38
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|
Subject: | Re: landing light question tests=X_ACCEPT_LANG |
version=2.40
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Can't speak for the relative brightness of lights.
If you go with the leading edge mounted light(s), the best practice is to
place them as far outboard as possible. This will result in a structurally
stronger wing than an inboard location.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Crandell" <rwc@swcp.com>
Subject: RV-List: landing light question tests=X_ACCEPT_LANG version=2.40
> --> RV-List message posted by: Roger Crandell <rwc@swcp.com>
>
> Do the landing lights recessed into the sheared fiberglass wing tips
> provide equivalent lighting compared to the lights mounted in the
> leading edge of an RV6 or any RV for that matter? If I choose the
> leading edge to mount the lights, does it matter if you place them just
> outboard of the fuel tanks or out next the the wing tip?
>
> Thanks
>
> Roger Crandell
>
>
Message 39
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
The installation manual for the UPS/Apollo GPS antenna, says "....avoid
placement of the coax cable near aircraft controls, power, DME, transponder,
or radio communication cables." The actual GPS antenna is far enough from
other antennaes, but routing the GPS cable back to the instrument panel
doesn't give me a whole lot of room for options. Right now, the routing
that works best has the RG 400 GPS cable running next to the comm. antenna
cable for about 2 1/2 feet, i.e. over the spar and up the side of the
fuselage. Anyone have experience with routing that caused problems?
Thanks
Duane Bentley
West Chester, OH
RV6 Finishing
Message 40
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|
Subject: | Re: > Re:Wingtip mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Of course there is a row of rivets showing with the wingtip mounted.
They disappear when paint and primer are applied. I don't trust that @#$%
&
* fibreglas with pop riverts or screws that close to the edge. If you read my
post , then you read that one of mine pulled out three or four of the pop
rivets. NOT good !!
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Bruce,
You will find it easier to sell what you have if you give all the
information regarding the model and if you have it the customer no or the
serial no of the wing. The serial number should be electrically etched onto
the steel doublers that connect the wing spars at the center.
Is there any info regarding the original owner etc.?
Do not archive ... Jim in kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: For Sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat@msn.com>
>
> Builders, I have a complete pre-punched wing kit that is still in Van's
boxes. Opened and inspected, but absolutely no work done. New kit from Van
costs $4,300+. Located in Greeley, CO. Make offer. Off List Please.
>
> Bruce
> tripodcat@msn.com
>
>
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat@msn.com>
There was no return address for you on your e-mail. The ans. to your question is
RV-6/6A.
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Brasch
Subject: Wing kit
We are all still waiting to hear what type wing it is for sale, you didn't say...
Message 43
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|
Subject: | Re: Hours for wiring... |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Mark:
Please tell Bob thanks for all the help with this project. I attended his two
day talk up
in Portland a couple of years ago. I really didn't think that I would actually
tackle the
task myself. Bob offers so much good advice, helpful technique and is just a great
support. I have to tell you this one for instance. I had just received the schematic
for
my intercom/selector. I had been soldering my harnesses, and finishing the ones
that John
Stark made a year earlier. I couldn't understand the schematic as far as the technique
of
making it work. I e-mailed Bob for assistance, hoping for an e-mail back. The
next day
he e-mails me and advised me that he had added a couple of pictures on the AeroElectric
website. Not just pictures but a how to do, step by step, "Soldering for Dummies"
primer. One dummy is very indebted to Bob Nuckolls.
Thanks
Dave Aronson
RV4
Mark Phillips wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Dave, I am gonna stand up and read this at Bob's seminar next week-
> won't be a dry eye in the house...................
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
>
> Mark - do not archive
>
> PS- Oh yeah, thanks- at this point in the project, I need all the
> inspiration possible!!!! You bet YOUR #*S.
>
> David Aronson wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
> >
> > Bill & Listers:
> > I have finally finished the electrical of my RV4. Pretty complex schematic
that Bob
> > at AEC helped with. Dual Alternators, all electric, 60amp, Essenc. Bus, Main
Bus,
> > Bat bus, EFIS, two coms, T&B, VM1000, Dual sticks operating flaps, radio flip/flop,
> > PTT, Transponder Ident, Autopilot track, Accutrak Autopilot, Seat warmers front
and
> > back, on and on and on..... I started the system, after all instruments and
all
> > components were located and no fabrication except to drill for adel clamps
and
> > passage ways for cable. The time, 240 hours plus or minus 50 hours that could
be
> > counted as other things like mounting antennas. Remember, you have to wire
pins for
> > each instrument that someone hasnt made a harness for, each wire needs to
be
> > pre-planned, put in place and then moved a few times as the bulk grows and
the ideal
> > path becomes TOO SMALL. Then you have to keep testing it, refining, fixing
the
> > screwups, etc. re-designing as your best plans are inadequate as the monster
> > grows. Then you lay there at night thinking, "If I am going to have an autopilot
> > this is the time, and so on for Wig-Wag, Cooling fan, Seat warmers, stick
control
> > requiring relays and special connectors and soldering 26guage wires, etc.
SOOOO.
> > When you are finished and you sit in your aircraft, first time hit the master
and
> > then turn your instruments on and test each circuit. When you finally tune
your
> > radio to the local freq. and hear the traffic above through your own headsets,
When
> > you push the button on the stick and the flap motor whines away and the radio
> > frequency changes, WOW!
> > It also could go Pfft! Would I do it again, You bet your #*S.
> > We do these things for the feeling of accomplishment and maybe to save money
too.
> > The payoff is well worth it. I have already felt like a million when someone
who
> > comes by to look says, "Did you do this?" ---"Sure, it was easy, your could
do it in
> > a snap".
> >
> > Dave Aronson
> > RV4 N504RV
> > Flying real SOOOON
> >
> >
> > Bill VonDane wrote:
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <n8wv@vondane.com>
> >>
> >>Anyone out there keep track of exactly how long (how many hours) it took them
to
> >>wire their RV?
> >>
> >>Thanks!
> >>
> >>-Bill VonDane
> >>RV-8A ~ 86.5 hrs
> >>www.vondane.com
> >>
> >>do not archive
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 44
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|
Subject: | Basic Aerobatics by Wayne Handley at Nut Tree |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Hey all you RV Pilots:
Wayne Handley will be at the NUT TREE AIRPORT (VCB) on April
12th, 2003.
It is confirmed and many of you have shown interest. I will
include the original message for those who did not read it.
Thanks to those who have already responded. ONLY ROOM FOR 60
PARTICIPANTS. Well, only 48 as of this mailing. Nut Tree is
on the San Francisco Sectional
and would be a nice trip for anyone on the west coast. If you
plan to take an instructional ride
with Wayne, he plans to stay for Sunday to complete any
flights. Very reasonable hotels are
available near-by and good restaurants abound within a 15
minute walk.
Thanks,
Dave Aronson
Solano Pilots Association & E.A.A. Chapter 1230
FIRST NOTICE FIRST NOTICE FIRST NOTICE FIRST NOTICE
The Solano Pilots Association and EAA 1230 will sponsor a
Seminar by noted Aerobatics pilot
Wayne Handley at the Nut Tree airport in Vacaville, CA. on
APRIL 12, 2003. The title of the lecture is... Basic Aerobatic
Maneuvers
to respond to spins and unusual attitudes.
After this lecture, Wayne will fly with as many interested
attendees as
time and weather permit in his Extra 300L. This could develop
into a
weekend of education, entertainment and flying at the Nut
Tree.
We will have a limit of 60 participants for the lecture. The
seminar fee
is $25 each and $200 per flight. Each flight will cover
coordinated and
uncoordinated slow flight, stalls, spins, basic aerobatics and
unusual
attitude recognition and recovery. Time will be allowed for
five pilots to
fly during the afternoon following the seminar and seven on
the following
day.
This seminar will be one of several acitivies planned this
year at the Nut Tree. We will advertise
at other EAA meetings so the seminar and Flights will be sold
out real quick. Send checks to: Make out to: Solano Pilots
Association
Solano Pilots Association
903 Granada Lane
Vacaville CA. 95688
For more about the lecturer Wayne Handley go to:
http://waynehandley.com/instruction.html
Thanks,
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Message 45
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Subject: | Re: Basic Aerobatics by Wayne Handley at Nut Tree |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karied4@attbi.com>
And if you have never flown an Extra 300 L it's an incredible aerobatic
experience.
Do not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Aronson" <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Basic Aerobatics by Wayne Handley at Nut Tree
> --> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
>
> Hey all you RV Pilots:
>
>
> Wayne Handley will be at the NUT TREE AIRPORT (VCB) on April
> 12th, 2003.
> It is confirmed and many of you have shown interest. I will
> include the original message for those who did not read it.
> Thanks to those who have already responded. ONLY ROOM FOR 60
> PARTICIPANTS. Well, only 48 as of this mailing. Nut Tree is
> on the San Francisco Sectional
> and would be a nice trip for anyone on the west coast. If you
> plan to take an instructional ride
> with Wayne, he plans to stay for Sunday to complete any
> flights. Very reasonable hotels are
> available near-by and good restaurants abound within a 15
> minute walk.
> Thanks,
> Dave Aronson
> Solano Pilots Association & E.A.A. Chapter 1230
>
> FIRST NOTICE FIRST NOTICE FIRST NOTICE FIRST NOTICE
>
> The Solano Pilots Association and EAA 1230 will sponsor a
> Seminar by noted Aerobatics pilot
> Wayne Handley at the Nut Tree airport in Vacaville, CA. on
> APRIL 12, 2003. The title of the lecture is... Basic Aerobatic
> Maneuvers
> to respond to spins and unusual attitudes.
> After this lecture, Wayne will fly with as many interested
> attendees as
> time and weather permit in his Extra 300L. This could develop
> into a
> weekend of education, entertainment and flying at the Nut
> Tree.
>
> We will have a limit of 60 participants for the lecture. The
> seminar fee
> is $25 each and $200 per flight. Each flight will cover
> coordinated and
> uncoordinated slow flight, stalls, spins, basic aerobatics and
> unusual
> attitude recognition and recovery. Time will be allowed for
> five pilots to
> fly during the afternoon following the seminar and seven on
> the following
> day.
> This seminar will be one of several acitivies planned this
> year at the Nut Tree. We will advertise
> at other EAA meetings so the seminar and Flights will be sold
> out real quick. Send checks to: Make out to: Solano Pilots
> Association
>
> Solano Pilots Association
> 903 Granada Lane
> Vacaville CA. 95688
>
> For more about the lecturer Wayne Handley go to:
>
> http://waynehandley.com/instruction.html
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
>
>
Message 46
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|
Subject: | Re: Be Aware FAA can pull anyones license without recourse.. |
SECURITY
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Be Aware FAA can pull anyones license without
recourse.. SECURITY
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Gordon makes a very valid point. With the new "Homeland Security" Agency
> taking the lead, ALL government agencies are now feeling a surge of power.
> I know where of I speak (20+ years in law enforcement) and I can assure
you
> that each step towards a "Police State" is a giant leap away from
democracy
> & freedom. Once lost, these priceless/precious things will not be easily
> recovered. Stand up & be counted as a free man, or surely you will fall
in
> line and be numbered as sheep.
>
> Chuck
> do not archive (but as soon as I hit "send", our government will have it
> filed under my name via their "Carnivore" system)
They'll take my joystick when they pull it from my cold dead hand! (Always
wanted to say that!)
But seriously, I hope we will all keep in mind the *principle* involved
here. How many of us have welcomed the clearly unconstitutional "war on
drugs" because it didn't gore our own ox? If we are to protect the
freedoms we personally value, it is the principal which must be defended,
not the issue.
Tracy Crook
Message 47
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|
Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phat Phil <phugoid@attbi.com>
I don't get it Dan how could this have been better with a hybrid setup
I would still be stranded. If I have two mags and one fails I've still
got one to fall back on.
Phil
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>>ignition we had a charging system failure. If we had 2 mags we would
>>have prop started it and flown home.
>>
>
> That makes the case for running a hybrid setup...one impulse coupled mag and
> one electronic ignition.
>
> Same deal if the alternator fails in flight. Even if you run the battery
> all the way down and lose the electronic ignition, you've still got that mag
> to fall back on.
>
> I'm very curious to find out how much more performance you can actually get
> out of dual electronic as opposed to single w/mag.
>
> Sure seems like elec+mag is the best way to go as of today.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 48
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|
Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phat Phil <phugoid@attbi.com>
Exactly Chris. If you use electronic ignition you need a battery backup.
More complexity stuff to go wrong.
Phil
Chris wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
>>From what I have heard electronic ignitions don't need much battery power. If
I
> go that route I plan on having 2 electronic ignitions and backup battery that
> will be dedicated for backup of only that system. I think I may even make it
an
> alkaline battery so I don't have to worry about hooking up a charging circuit
to
> it, and just replacing the battery after every use or once a year whichever
> comes first.
>
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 49
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|
Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phat Phil <phugoid@attbi.com>
I took my plane to an AI on my last annual because I was concerned about
the time on the mags.
He said OH you've got slicks. We usually don't mess with them unless
there is a problem. They usually go to TBO.
Phil
Dave Bristol wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
>
> I'd like to see some actual data on the " unreliability of mags". Other than
the
> failure in my RV6 two years ago (which probably was caused by poor maintenance),
I
> have never had a failure or aborted a takeoff in 35 years of flying because
of a
> bad mag - some bad plugs but never a mag. But, my point was that if you ever
> should have mag problem, almost any mechanic can fix it.
>
> Dave
>
>
>>I can understand the concern, but could the concern arise from the
>>justifiable paranoia from the unreliability of mags?
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 50
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|
Subject: | Re: Superior engine info |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 12:59 PM 1/26/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>........................I did not have is permission to repeat anything he
>said.
This is America where you can quote anyone at anytime without permission.
Right??
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 51
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|
Subject: | Vertical Stab ?s |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I apologize in advance for what I know are incredibly stupid questions:
1) What is the quickest way to identify the right clecos to use? How tight should
they fit? When clecoing the VS410PP to the VS808PP, it appears that the silver
clecos are too loose and the gold are too tight. I'm thinking that the
gold should be correct...do I need to drill out the 410, 411, and 412 first to
get them to fit?
2) What is the sequence most have used in priming?
A) Cleco, remove plastic, drill, then prime
B) Remove plastic, cleco, drill, prime
C) Remove plastic, prime, cleco, drill
3) I think I am sold on the Sherwin Williams primer that Vans uses on the Quickbuild,
but I do not recall the name. I believe it is a self-washing primer?
Model 9 something? I have the new HVLP gun all rearing to go.
Thanks,
Scott Haskins
RV7A Emp
Join Excite! - <a href=http://www.excite.com target=_blank>http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 52
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|
Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I don't get it Dan how could this have been better with a hybrid setup
> I would still be stranded. If I have two mags and one fails I've still
> got one to fall back on.
You said that if you had 2 mags you could have hand-propped it and flown
home. You don't need 2 mags to hand-prop it...having just one mag with an
impulse coupler will do the trick.
For what it's worth, I'm not arguing against having two mags...I'm just
suggesting that the hybrid setup (single impulse-coupled mag, single
electronic ignition) gives you more options in the dead-electric scenario
than dual electronic.
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 53
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|
Subject: | Engine Available |
--> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
Folks
A fellow I know is changing engines to accomodate a C/S prop. He is selling
the engine that is presently on his Thorpe T-18. The engine is an 0320E2D,
and includes
all accesories except carb and prop. Time on engine is 1150 SMOH. This
engine has had all mods normally performed as AD's on certified engines. The
engine and prop will stay on the airplane until sold, so that buyer can hear
it run and do comp.
test if desired. He is asking $6500.00. Contact can be made at SWIFTRUCK@
hotmail.com. Hope someone can use a good engine. If I were closer to
needing an engine, I'd buy it myself. No worries about engine break-in on a
first flight!!!
Jim Nice
WA State
Message 54
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|
Subject: | Re: Superior engine info |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
I suppose I could Hal, I just wanted to make the point that Van's
was not aware that the insurance companies were not wanting to
insure engines other than the so called "certified Lycoming engines".
Jerry
do not archive
kempthornes wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> At 12:59 PM 1/26/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>........................I did not have is permission to repeat anything he
>>said.
>
>
> This is America where you can quote anyone at anytime without permission.
>
> Right??
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 55
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|
Subject: | Re: Drilling Cowl Hinges |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Howdy Harry- Just did this, so I am "feelin' yer pain!" -The firewall
hinges are already drilled and clecoed to the firewall flanges (dealers
choice as far as method- I went with the standard hinges everywhere but
the bottom- using screws there, six on either side of the air outlet).
Keep all the rear hinges (both halves with the pins in place) clecoed to
the firewall with a strip of duct tape on the back side of the hinge,
end to end, locking the hinges flat. This prevents the hinge from
pivoting and holds the cowl side half in position for drilling. (The
horizontal hinges on the sides can be taped the same way to hold them in
position- use thin strips of duct tape so you don't cover the rivet
holes!) I drilled the top hinges first with the rear edge of the cowl
trimmed & trimmed again to align with the top forward skin and set to
the proper height at the rear spinner plate. It sounds like this is
about where you are right now.
Once this is done, go ahead and drill the top side hinges to the cowl
OFF of the fuselage (with the lower half of the hinge pinned & duct
taped to the uppers) following the dimensions in the manual (higher at
the back, lower at the front- check the drawing). With the hinge now
drilled and clecoed to the top half and the top cowl held in final
position, (and the bottom cowl trimmed to a fairly accurate match to the
top along both the horizontal joining line and the rear) and with some
fairly bright lights shining from the inside of the cowl to show the
holes in the hinges, start drilling the lower half of the side hinges
til done, then the lower verticals. (if you are doing this right (at
least by my amatuer estimation!) you will have placed the cowl halves in
position, measured, removed, trimmed, replaced, marked again, removed,
trimmed etc. many times until you are happy with the fit!)
This worked fairly well for me although I am a little miffed that I've
got a little wider gap between the cowling and the side skin than I'd
like-(damn- there goes that award!!) but it's the first time I've ever
attempted such a thing so whadduyah expect?!?!
If this confuses you further, please disregard- otherwise, contact me
off list and we'll talk about it...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
HCRV6@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> OK Listers, I admit it, I'm missing something pretty simple I guess because
> no one ever mentions this in discussions about the cowl. I'm ready to drill
> the vertical and horizontal hinges that attach the bottom cowl to the top
> cowl and fuselage and I do not understand how to hold the hinge halves in
> place against the cowl halves while drilling them. It seems to me that it
> requires a triple jointed contortionist with extremely long thin arms to be
> able to reach in through the front to hold them. There must be a better way,
> what am I missing here?
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, starting firewall forward
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 56
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Subject: | Re: Vertical Stab ?s |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Scott,
1/ Try the copper colored clecos. Silver are 3/32", copper are 1/8", gold
are 5/32".
Generally the order of events might go:
Cleco together for first look. Read ahead a lot! Always do assembly to
familiarize yourself with and compare with instructions and drawings. Look
ahead on the drawings a lot!
Drilling to size and dimpling can be done with the plastic on or off,
(circumstance dependent). 'I chose to remove plastic'.
If using self etching wash primer, clean with thinners, scuff off surface
shine with Red Scotch Bright pad clean off dust and prime.
It's great that you are eager to get at it! Slow up a bit and it will go
faster in the long run.
Go to the builders book store on the web and buy books and or tapes that
cover the stuff you have yet to do.
Seek out any builders in your area and share info with them. Ask on this
list and contact the EAA
group near you.
Read ahead a lot!!. Look ahead on the drawings a lot!!
Happy building!
Do not archive Jim in Kelowna
P.S./ Did I mention??-read ahead a lot!! and look ahead at the drawings a
lot!!(:-)!
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vertical Stab ?s
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> All,
>
> I apologize in advance for what I know are incredibly stupid questions:
>
> 1) What is the quickest way to identify the right clecos to use? How
tight should they fit? When clecoing the VS410PP to the VS808PP, it appears
that the silver clecos are too loose and the gold are too tight. I'm
thinking that the gold should be correct...do I need to drill out the 410,
411, and 412 first to get them to fit?
>
> 2) What is the sequence most have used in priming?
> A) Cleco, remove plastic, drill, then prime
> B) Remove plastic, cleco, drill, prime
> C) Remove plastic, prime, cleco, drill
>
> 3) I think I am sold on the Sherwin Williams primer that Vans uses on the
Quickbuild, but I do not recall the name. I believe it is a self-washing
primer? Model 9 something? I have the new HVLP gun all rearing to go.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott Haskins
> RV7A Emp
>
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