Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:41 AM - RV-7 Empennage Kit and VOR Dipole Install (Willke, Theodore L)
2. 03:59 AM - Re: RV-7 Empennage Kit and VOR Dipole Install (Dana Overall)
3. 06:29 AM - Re: Hi--Insurance, does this ever end (John Helms)
4. 06:51 AM - Re: Canopy seal (czechsix@juno.com)
5. 07:07 AM - Re: RV-7 Empennage Kit and VOR Dipole Install (Sam Buchanan)
6. 07:09 AM - Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? (Larry Pardue)
7. 07:28 AM - Re: Re: Canopy seal (Rick Jory)
8. 07:51 AM - Re: Re: Canopy seal (Brian Denk)
9. 08:30 AM - Re: Re: Canopy seal (Doug Rozendaal)
10. 11:48 AM - understanding insurance (D. Wayne Stiles)
11. 12:00 PM - RV8 semi quick build kit for sale (jim)
12. 12:24 PM - Fw: understanding insurance (C. Rabaut)
13. 12:33 PM - PC680 Motorcycle Battery (Will Cretsinger)
14. 12:53 PM - Need a Wemac eye ball vent (DJB6A@cs.com)
15. 12:53 PM - QB wing wiring conduit (Geoff Evans)
16. 01:13 PM - Re: PC680 Motorcycle Battery (SportAV8R@aol.com)
17. 01:37 PM - Re: QB wing wiring conduit ()
18. 02:52 PM - Re: Need a Wemac eye ball vent (RICKRV6@aol.com)
19. 03:17 PM - Re: QB wing wiring conduit (Geoff Evans)
20. 04:07 PM - Re: Re: QB wing wiring conduit (Dana Overall)
21. 04:59 PM - Sealed Batteries (was: PC680 Motorcycle Battery) (Bill Dube)
22. 05:05 PM - Century I help (JVanLaak@aol.com)
23. 06:16 PM - Re: Century I help (Dave Bristol)
24. 06:20 PM - Re: RV8 semi quick build kit for sale (Wayne)
25. 07:16 PM - Re: Need a Wemac eye ball vent (Larry Bowen)
26. 07:36 PM - Re: Century I help (JVanLaak@aol.com)
27. 07:47 PM - tip tanks (Dr. Leathers)
28. 08:22 PM - Re: tip tanks (Dan Checkoway)
29. 08:27 PM - Landing/taxi lts on tail dragger (Frank Smidler)
30. 08:32 PM - Re: tip tanks ()
31. 09:18 PM - Fw: Taylorcraft: off subject - AIRPLANES VS. WOMEN (Wayne R. Couture)
32. 09:34 PM - Re: QB wing wiring conduit (Wayne R. Couture)
33. 10:33 PM - Little washers in tight places (Geoff Evans)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RV-7 Empennage Kit and VOR Dipole Install |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Willke, Theodore L" <theodore.l.willke@intel.com>
Hi RV List,
I'm interested in installing a VOR GS/LOC dipole antenna on the vertical
stabilizer of my just underway RV-7 empennage. However, I can't find any
guidelines on how/when to integrate such an installation into the standard
emp kit build. I'm planning on using the Commant antenna supplied through
Van's as part AV CI-215.
If you have installed an antenna similar to this or know where I can get an
installation summary, please let me know. I'm concerned about getting the
kit past the critical point where the antenna wiring and mounting can't be
done easily.
Thanks!
Ted
------------------------------
Ted L. Willke
Server I/O Architecture
Enterprise Platforms Group
Intel Corporation
DuPont, WA
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Empennage Kit and VOR Dipole Install |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Ted,
If you have a copy of the 21years of RVator there is a very good diagram in
there. I'll try and explain. Build a hat and fabricate a doubler plate for
the hat to sit on. These will rivet just forward of the intersection point
of the middle VS spar and top rib, onto the top rib. You will need to clear
out either material from the top of the VS skin or the fiberglass tip as the
ant. base is larger than this area and to have exit points for your ant. It
looks like a pretty clean install.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Willke, Theodore L" <theodore.l.willke@intel.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list@matronics.com'" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: RV-7 Empennage Kit and VOR Dipole Install
>Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 00:39:48 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Willke, Theodore L"
><theodore.l.willke@intel.com>
>
>Hi RV List,
>
>I'm interested in installing a VOR GS/LOC dipole antenna on the vertical
>stabilizer of my just underway RV-7 empennage. However, I can't find any
>guidelines on how/when to integrate such an installation into the standard
>emp kit build. I'm planning on using the Commant antenna supplied through
>Van's as part AV CI-215.
>
>If you have installed an antenna similar to this or know where I can get an
>installation summary, please let me know. I'm concerned about getting the
>kit past the critical point where the antenna wiring and mounting can't be
>done easily.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Ted
>
>------------------------------
>Ted L. Willke
>Server I/O Architecture
>Enterprise Platforms Group
>Intel Corporation
>DuPont, WA
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Hi--Insurance, does this ever end |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
My point is if the insurance companies don't want to right it they don't have to.
They are not "legally obligated" to pay anything if the contract has been
breached by you in the application process (the premium you pay, along with the
information they request from you is what you give to them... they promise that
as long as you have paid, and have provided truthful info in the application
process that they will pay the claims as laid out in the insurance policy.)
If they don't want to write Cessna 172s they can say "were not going to write coverage
for 172s" and they won't. Same with these engines. And that is my point.
If they don't want to write it, then they make an underwriting decision
not to, and they stick to it. If they have made a decision (and they have) to
NOT write RVs with Superior engines, and you or your agent fail to tell them,
it gives them an OPPORTUNITY to deny coverage. The insurance policy is a contract
between you and the insurance company. If you breach the agreement (i.e.
not answer, or falsely answer questions in the application process), then they
can deny coverage.
As I have stated many times, the most of the companies left today do not have the
reputation for denying coverage.
I stand by my statement that you think is so horrible. If these companies are
continually forced to pay for claims for risk they did not fully understand, or
that they were lied to about but paid anyway to prevent getting a claims denial
reputation, then they will likely get out of the homebuilt market. None of
you should want fewer companies in the homebuilt market. You RV drivers and
builders have it pretty good. Other homebuilders aren't so lucky.
You don't seem to be able to get it thru your skull what I am saying. I don't
want any of you to pay for insurance THAT YOU MIGHT HAVE DIFFICULTY IN RECOVERING
MONEY FROM IN A CLAIM. I am not saying don't buy insurance if you want it.
I am saying be upfront about what the risk is, and ask your agent questions
if you are unsure about something regarding a modification. It is the agents
job to take that info to an underwriter and let them review the modification
and make an assessment right then of whether or not they desire to cover that
type of risk.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: JRWillJR@aol.com
To: jhelms@i1.net ; rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: Hi--Insurance, does this ever end
In a message dated 1/27/2003 2:37:09 PM Central Standard Time, jhelms@i1.net
writes:
"It upsets you that I want to prevent these companies having to pay claims
they don't want to pay because they never intended to cover powerplants or other
modifications so that we can keep these companies competing with each other
and keep the rates down?"
Ah, yes, and now the ulterior motive surfaces as I suspected all along. Please
carefully read the above quote. Let's see, to prevent companies from having
to pay claims they are legally obligated to pay by providing them with yet another
loop hole, in this case engine related, so that they do not have to pay them.
I like how you pass yourself off as our buddy, I imagine the adder in the
Garden told Adam he was his buddy also before offering him the apple.
I may be "dense" to quote you but your purposes are probably increasingly apparent
to a number of parties. Perhaps you should get out of the risk business
and sell Amway.
"Wow, you are dense. I know that they make all types of engine parts, and now
they are making an entire engine. I am not talking about what is legal/certified
with the FAA. I am strictly talking about what the insurance companies
will and will not accept. And, yes, I have been verifying what companies like
AIG will and will not do... and it has been those other agents out there that
have been wrong."
So then a Mattuck overhauled Lycoming with a Superior crank (because it was not
affected by the AD) and has Titan cylinders and pistons and a new Superior
sump would not be covered because the owner neglected to tell the insurance company
that he had fully certified and legal PMA parts in his engine that are in
compliance with the TC? I would like to see that hold up.
Dude, don't write me anymore, I am tired of thinking about you. Okay, whatever
you say, you are correct, now please go away. Geeezzz.
Meanwhile, back on the third rock from the sun, my kit in progress including
a Superior engine is insured for 40,000 dollars with an expected upon completion
insurable value of 55,000 dollars and they know what engine I got. Do Not Archive.
JR
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Danny is right on with his analysis. I wish I had a time-lapse camera I could
set up in my garage pointed at the rear portion of my canopy skirt on my -8A.
I too spent hours and hours this past summer meticulously fitting the skirt to
*just* touch the fuselage ever so nicely. A thing of beauty if I must say so
myself. One cold day in the fall I was dismayed to find a sizeable gap around
the area. I scratched my head and stared at it in frustration, wondering if
I had messed something up opening and closing the canopy or what else could
be wrong. Then I observed a funny thing....as the garage warms up with my space
heater, the gap closes back up. Yep...just like clockwork...out to the garage
in 40 degrees F and I can consistently measure the gap at 3/16". Turn on
the space heater and wah-lah!...when the temp hits 75 deg F, no more gap...all
this without touching the canopy or fuselage. I can use my canopy skirt for
a thermometer, who needs OAT...just take a look at 'er and I'll tell ya within'
5 degrees, guaranteed, what the current temp is. But I hate to think what the
gap will be in 0 degree weather...!!
Anyway I think this is a pretty sick joke than Uncle Van has played on us -8 drivers
and he needs to take it back : ) Just when ya need the nice refreshing
breeze in the summer when it's 95 F outside, the thing closes up nice and tight.
And when you want it sealed up when it's cold outside, it pops up and sucks
nice frigid air onto our necks. The only solution I can see is to use some
sort of rubber seal back there that will "squish" in the summer and expand to
fill the gap in the winter.
BTW, the sides of the skirt fit nice and snug regardless of temp...they don't seem
to vary at all....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing other stuff and giving up on canopy skirt fit...
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 18:25:43 -0600
From: "Danny King" <danny.king@charter.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy seal
Chris,
The temperature will change the fit from hot to cold quite a
bit. My 8's canopy
skirt fits great in the summer time as that is when I did the
canopy work. I
flew her today and I noticed that my winter gap has not changed.
The Plexiglas
expands when heated and elongates. The fit in the back will
get tighter as the
skirt is pressed against the turtle deck. The reverse happens
when it get
cold.
Danny King
Beautiful Doll 80434
----- Original Message -----
From: csands9551@aol.com
To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [rv8list] Canopy seal
Has anyone else had this problem... I built my canopy a few
months ago with a
perfect fit around the back of the fuselage. It spent about
a month on and
off the plane always fitting just right. I took it off to finish
some other
work, I put it back the other day, and it fits horribly now
around the back.
I have about 1/4" gap. Did this happen due to temperature?
or what? I hate to
rework it back to a perfect fit, and find out a month from
now it doesn't fit
again. Any help, suggestion's?
Chris
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Empennage Kit and VOR Dipole Install |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
"Willke, Theodore L" wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Willke, Theodore L" <theodore.l.willke@intel.com>
>
> Hi RV List,
>
> I'm interested in installing a VOR GS/LOC dipole antenna on the vertical
> stabilizer of my just underway RV-7 empennage. However, I can't find any
> guidelines on how/when to integrate such an installation into the standard
> emp kit build. I'm planning on using the Commant antenna supplied through
> Van's as part AV CI-215.
>
Ted, keep in mind that you may be installing a real "eye poker" if you
put a dipole antenna on the vertical stab of any of the taildragger RVs.
The ends of the antenna will be at a perfect height to cause injury to
anybody maneuvering in close quarters to the vertical stab.
I recommend you consider the Sportcraft internal wingtip antenna for
your VOR/GS; it fits inside a wingtip and is a proven design that works
very nicely. You also want to be conscious of any equipment that will
add weight to the tail of the conventional gear RVs.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 1/3 Lycoming, 2/3 Superior (Mellenium)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
> From: Phat Phil <phugoid@attbi.com>
>
> Subject: Re: Is Lightspeed Worth It?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Phat Phil <phugoid@attbi.com>
>
> Exactly Chris. If you use electronic ignition you need a battery
>backup.
> More complexity stuff to go wrong.
> Phil
> I see no reason to have a backup battery. Has anyone here ever had a
>battery suddenly fail?
Yes. More than once.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
Wow. I appreciate this latest thread. I was all set to re-do the back of
my canopy skirt. It has a gap that wasn't there last fall. Of course,
there's been a 30+ degree shift in temperature. I think I'll wait a bit and
see what happens.
do not archive
Rick 'the gap' Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
<support@vansaircraft.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Canopy seal
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Danny is right on with his analysis. I wish I had a time-lapse camera I
could set up in my garage pointed at the rear portion of my canopy skirt on
my -8A. I too spent hours and hours this past summer meticulously fitting
the skirt to *just* touch the fuselage ever so nicely. A thing of beauty if
I must say so myself. One cold day in the fall I was dismayed to find a
sizeable gap around the area. I scratched my head and stared at it in
frustration, wondering if I had messed something up opening and closing the
canopy or what else could be wrong. Then I observed a funny thing....as the
garage warms up with my space heater, the gap closes back up. Yep...just
like clockwork...out to the garage in 40 degrees F and I can consistently
measure the gap at 3/16". Turn on the space heater and wah-lah!...when the
temp hits 75 deg F, no more gap...all this without touching the canopy or
fuselage. I can use my canopy skirt for a thermometer, who needs OAT...just
take a look at '!
> er and I'll tell ya within' 5 degrees, guaranteed, what the current temp
is. But I hate to think what the gap will be in 0 degree weather...!!
>
> Anyway I think this is a pretty sick joke than Uncle Van has played on
us -8 drivers and he needs to take it back : ) Just when ya need the nice
refreshing breeze in the summer when it's 95 F outside, the thing closes up
nice and tight. And when you want it sealed up when it's cold outside, it
pops up and sucks nice frigid air onto our necks. The only solution I can
see is to use some sort of rubber seal back there that will "squish" in the
summer and expand to fill the gap in the winter.
>
> BTW, the sides of the skirt fit nice and snug regardless of temp...they
don't seem to vary at all....
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing other stuff and giving up on canopy skirt fit...
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 18:25:43 -0600
> From: "Danny King" <danny.king@charter.net>
> Subject: Re: Canopy seal
>
> Chris,
> The temperature will change the fit from hot to cold
quite a bit. My 8's canopy
> skirt fits great in the summer time as that is when I
did the canopy work. I
> flew her today and I noticed that my winter gap has not
changed. The Plexiglas
> expands when heated and elongates. The fit in the back
will get tighter as the
> skirt is pressed against the turtle deck. The reverse
happens when it get
> cold.
> Danny King
> Beautiful Doll 80434
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: csands9551@aol.com
> To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 2:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [rv8list] Canopy seal
>
>
> Has anyone else had this problem... I built my canopy
a few months ago with a
>
> perfect fit around the back of the fuselage. It spent
about a month on and
> off the plane always fitting just right. I took it off
to finish some other
> work, I put it back the other day, and it fits
horribly now around the back.
> I have about 1/4" gap. Did this happen due to
temperature? or what? I hate to
>
> rework it back to a perfect fit, and find out a month
from now it doesn't fit
>
> again. Any help, suggestion's?
>
> Chris
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Aye, wise lads, ye be learnin' the mysteries of the amazing shrinking
skirt!! (Also applies to fashion trends...not that I'm complaining. :)
The only way to have a reasonably stable seal is to use weatherstripping or
felt to provide a cushy seal. This also saves wear and tear on your paint.
Over time, don't be surprised to see the weave in the skirt showing through
ever so slightly when viewed in the right lighting. Epoxy shrinks as it
ages. Bummer. For example, I made a wired a circuit that I wanted to pot
in epoxy. Three years ago, the epoxy cured up nice and hard, and just below
the edge of the plastic box in which I placed the circuit board. I looked
at it a week ago, and the epoxy was fully HALF as thick! It really shrunk
up, and yellowed a bit.
This, of course, provides us with more fodder to use on the plastic airplane
guys....
"Hey dude, you have a problem with SHRINKAGE when it's cold?"
(fans of Seinfeld should understand the meaning)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
>
>Wow. I appreciate this latest thread. I was all set to re-do the back of
>my canopy skirt. It has a gap that wasn't there last fall. Of course,
>there's been a 30+ degree shift in temperature. I think I'll wait a bit
>and
>see what happens.
>do not archive
>Rick 'the gap' Jory RV8A
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <czechsix@juno.com>
>To: <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>; <rv-list@matronics.com>;
><support@vansaircraft.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Canopy seal
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> >
> > Danny is right on with his analysis. I wish I had a time-lapse camera I
>could set up in my garage pointed at the rear portion of my canopy skirt on
>my -8A. I too spent hours and hours this past summer meticulously fitting
>the skirt to *just* touch the fuselage ever so nicely. A thing of beauty
>if
>I must say so myself. One cold day in the fall I was dismayed to find a
>sizeable gap around the area. I scratched my head and stared at it in
>frustration, wondering if I had messed something up opening and closing the
>canopy or what else could be wrong. Then I observed a funny thing....as
>the
>garage warms up with my space heater, the gap closes back up. Yep...just
>like clockwork...out to the garage in 40 degrees F and I can consistently
>measure the gap at 3/16". Turn on the space heater and wah-lah!...when the
>temp hits 75 deg F, no more gap...all this without touching the canopy or
>fuselage. I can use my canopy skirt for a thermometer, who needs
>OAT...just
>take a look at '!
> > er and I'll tell ya within' 5 degrees, guaranteed, what the current temp
>is. But I hate to think what the gap will be in 0 degree weather...!!
> >
> > Anyway I think this is a pretty sick joke than Uncle Van has played on
>us -8 drivers and he needs to take it back : ) Just when ya need the nice
>refreshing breeze in the summer when it's 95 F outside, the thing closes up
>nice and tight. And when you want it sealed up when it's cold outside, it
>pops up and sucks nice frigid air onto our necks. The only solution I can
>see is to use some sort of rubber seal back there that will "squish" in the
>summer and expand to fill the gap in the winter.
> >
> > BTW, the sides of the skirt fit nice and snug regardless of temp...they
>don't seem to vary at all....
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D finishing other stuff and giving up on canopy skirt fit...
> >
> > Message: 14
> > Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 18:25:43 -0600
> > From: "Danny King" <danny.king@charter.net>
> > Subject: Re: Canopy seal
> >
> > Chris,
> > The temperature will change the fit from hot to cold
>quite a bit. My 8's canopy
> > skirt fits great in the summer time as that is when I
>did the canopy work. I
> > flew her today and I noticed that my winter gap has
>not
>changed. The Plexiglas
> > expands when heated and elongates. The fit in the
>back
>will get tighter as the
> > skirt is pressed against the turtle deck. The
>reverse
>happens when it get
> > cold.
> > Danny King
> > Beautiful Doll 80434
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: csands9551@aol.com
> > To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 2:45 PM
> > Subject: Re: [rv8list] Canopy seal
> >
> >
> > Has anyone else had this problem... I built my
>canopy
>a few months ago with a
> >
> > perfect fit around the back of the fuselage. It
>spent
>about a month on and
> > off the plane always fitting just right. I took it
>off
>to finish some other
> > work, I put it back the other day, and it fits
>horribly now around the back.
> > I have about 1/4" gap. Did this happen due to
>temperature? or what? I hate to
> >
> > rework it back to a perfect fit, and find out a
>month
>from now it doesn't fit
> >
> > again. Any help, suggestion's?
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
The canopy also generates a considerable amount of lift, so even if it is
snug as a bug on the ground, unless it is pretty heavily preloaded, it will
still have a gap in flight. (based on -4 tip over)
I used to freeze my tailfeathers in the panther if it was below 40 degrees.
I got serious with the weather stripping, I bought a package of almost
every dimension they had at Menards. I tried several different
combinations. I now have to pull down hard to get the canopy latched, but I
am snug as a bug (with a Leather Jacket and a pair of uninsulated leather
gloves) down to 20 deg. and 10 is great if the sun is out.
The backseaters say it is OK back there too, but then who cares about the
backseaters..... ( "every thing behind the roll bar is cargo" Right? No my
wife doesn't ride back there, at least not often. )
All this on one 6" muff, no pan scratchers, no interior insulation and 1.5"
scat tube. Keeping the heat in is the key.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | understanding insurance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles@hotmail.com>
The Insurance/engine thread is starting to get unnecessarily nasty.
Some guys don't seem to get it. EVERYONE is out to make money---the
Insurance industry and their agents, Lyc, Superior, even Vans, and you, and
me too. The Ins. industry does not make money by paying claims, (except
just enough low cost ones to keep their reputation up). They make money by
collecting premiums and investing it. Losses they cover cuts into the
profit. NO insurance company of any kind is a philanthropy. They are not
even people. They are financial machines driven by statistics and
profit/loss figures as governed by gvmt. regulations and public relations.
Avoiding payouts means better profit for their owners, investors, and
staff/agents. They pay out on claims they are contracted to by law, and
even pay dubious claims when the cost of fighting it and/or the public
relations value exceeds the payout.
Is it reasonable to EXPECT them to cover risks that they think will cost
them more than they take in. The risks they cover are ones that their
experience shows will have the minimal payouts. Unknown quantities mean
that they can't predict the odds of payout. The whole experimental plane
market is an unknown quantity and it probably represents a small portion of
the overall aircraft insurance market. THEY DON"T NEED US--at best we are
just a few more customers to spread the risk/cost across--and only if we are
not too big a risk ourselves.
The whole insurance business---cars, homes,life, health, and planes is
nothing but a big big GAMBLE--with their dice. They are betting that the
cost of claims will be less than income from premiums + investments (and we
all know what is happening to investments.) Sure, we "know" that the new
360 is superior to the old Lyc, but it is a new thing; and yeah, our RVs
have kind of moved the line between true "experimentals" toward "pretty
standardized" but not "certificated" planes. But until there is a track
record to prove otherwise, the odds and risk to their profit goes up for
them (Lets face it, it's only the "standardized" nature and the sheer
number of RVs that gets us any leverage at all.) Their options are to
gamble further---and insure them, hoping to get enough new premium money to
cut potential losses, wait and see while refusing to cover and fighting to
avoid payouts if possible, or jack up the rates even more to spread the
risk/cost across a broader base.
let's face it would you let some one you don't know fly your bird? No
it's too risky. Would you bet your savings--what's left--or your kids
college fund on a team or a horse you knew nothing about?
Ranting and raving isn't going to change a single thing, We are all in
it to make/save a buck. We pays our money and takes our choice. The best
we can do is try to make the best decision for us. All stoning the
messenger does as cut off the communication.
Now I'll get off the soapbox and give someone else a chance
a normally quiet lurker-----dws
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV8 semi quick build kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jim" <jntambs@voyager.net>
I am selling my kit. The empennage is complete except fiberglass. The wing is
to the fuel tank stage (both wings being built simultaneously). I have a quick
build fuselage. All kits inventoried and complete. The cost of the kits was
over $17,000 excluding shipping. Workmanship is excellent, evaluated by tech
counselor. I want to get the cost of the kits out of this. This is your chance
to get a setup that is almost to the quickbuild stage without having to
wait 9 months or so.
Contact initially by email:
Jim Tambs
jntambs@voyager.net
Thanks,
Jim
Message 12
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| Subject: | understanding insurance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Please do not forget to add "Do Not Archive" to your soap box messages.
Thanks,
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: D. Wayne Stiles <dwstiles@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: understanding insurance
> --> RV-List message posted by: "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles@hotmail.com>
>
> The Insurance/engine thread is starting to get unnecessarily nasty.
> Some guys don't seem to get it. EVERYONE is out to make money---the
> Insurance industry and their agents, Lyc, Superior, even Vans, and you,
and
> me too. The Ins. industry does not make money by paying claims, (except
> just enough low cost ones to keep their reputation up). They make money
by
> collecting premiums and investing it. Losses they cover cuts into the
> profit. NO insurance company of any kind is a philanthropy. They are not
> even people. They are financial machines driven by statistics and
> profit/loss figures as governed by gvmt. regulations and public relations.
> Avoiding payouts means better profit for their owners, investors, and
> staff/agents. They pay out on claims they are contracted to by law, and
> even pay dubious claims when the cost of fighting it and/or the public
> relations value exceeds the payout.
> Is it reasonable to EXPECT them to cover risks that they think will
cost
> them more than they take in. The risks they cover are ones that their
> experience shows will have the minimal payouts. Unknown quantities mean
> that they can't predict the odds of payout. The whole experimental plane
> market is an unknown quantity and it probably represents a small portion
of
> the overall aircraft insurance market. THEY DON"T NEED US--at best we
are
> just a few more customers to spread the risk/cost across--and only if we
are
> not too big a risk ourselves.
> The whole insurance business---cars, homes,life, health, and planes is
> nothing but a big big GAMBLE--with their dice. They are betting that the
> cost of claims will be less than income from premiums + investments (and
we
> all know what is happening to investments.) Sure, we "know" that the new
> 360 is superior to the old Lyc, but it is a new thing; and yeah, our RVs
> have kind of moved the line between true "experimentals" toward "pretty
> standardized" but not "certificated" planes. But until there is a track
> record to prove otherwise, the odds and risk to their profit goes up for
> them (Lets face it, it's only the "standardized" nature and the sheer
> number of RVs that gets us any leverage at all.) Their options are to
> gamble further---and insure them, hoping to get enough new premium money
to
> cut potential losses, wait and see while refusing to cover and fighting to
> avoid payouts if possible, or jack up the rates even more to spread the
> risk/cost across a broader base.
> let's face it would you let some one you don't know fly your bird? No
> it's too risky. Would you bet your savings--what's left--or your kids
> college fund on a team or a horse you knew nothing about?
> Ranting and raving isn't going to change a single thing, We are all in
> it to make/save a buck. We pays our money and takes our choice. The best
> we can do is try to make the best decision for us. All stoning the
> messenger does as cut off the communication.
> Now I'll get off the soapbox and give someone else a chance
> a normally quiet lurker-----dws
>
>
Message 13
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|
"C. W. Crane" <cwcrane@gbronline.com>
| Subject: | PC680 Motorcycle Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger@ticnet.com>
I have received my new battery from batteries4everything. It was
shipped by Cell Energy Inc from North Highlands, CA. Cost was $62.55
plus $11.50 shipping for total cost of $74.05. I expected a $2 handling
charge but they forgot it.
Now to replace my four year old Concorde with this nice little battery.
With different type terminals, it may be a challenge.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
RV-6A do not archive
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Need a Wemac eye ball vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
I am looking for 1 Wemac eyeball vent model # 2133 that is the panel mount
type (no screws on the front). Got the last one from Lancair, they say they
will not be stocking them any longer - too pricey. I have left 2 messages
with B/E Aerospace, new owners and price triplers. Have spend way to long
doing searches on the Internet with no luck. Tried Chief, ACS they have the
2230-1 screw type.
I have limited panel space so Van's vents don't fit. Any help would really be
appreciated.
Dave Burnham
6A finishing
Lincolnshire, IL
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | QB wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Has anyone installed wiring conduit in quick-build RV-8 wings?
It seems like it would be darn near impossible to drill large holes for the conduit
in the inboard
ribs that are very close together and virtually inacessible because the top and
bottom skins are
already riveted on.
That said, is the conduit really necessary anyway? It seems to me that a lot of
people use it
because, at the time of initial wing construction, they don't know what types of
electrical
components they want to install and want to be able to pull wires with ease at
a later date. I
already know what I want to install and have the parts in hand.
All opinions welcome. This is obviouisly something I want/need to sort out at this
stage of the
game rather than later when the wing is already closed up.
-Geoff Evans
RV-8 QB Wings
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: PC680 Motorcycle Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 01/28/2003 3:35:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cretsinger@ticnet.com writes:
>
> Now to replace my four year old Concorde with this nice little battery.
> With different type terminals, it may be a challenge.
>
> Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
> RV-6A do not archive
>
>
You will love throwing away the 11-plus pounds of excess old battery and
battery box, Will. The terminals were a nonissue for me, as I recall, but I
do need to go back one day and shorten those heavy #4 cables, which are now
too long. Next time I can borrow those huge crimpers... The battery straps
in nicely to the old mount, using cris-crossed heavy-duty cable ties passing
over the battery and under the small lengths of piano hinge I mated to the
former battery box attach hinges. This battery reuires no box nor any
special venting provisions. Lots of snort on even the coldest mornings.
Enjoy!
-Bill B do not archive
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Thought the same thing on a 7QB. What we did was get an extention for the
Unibit and drilled out the existing holes for conduit. This provides for a
larger conduit to run the wiring for the strobes/nav lights and landing
lights and potentially an antenna coax. Haven't figured out the pitot tube
plumbing and wiring yet.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Evans" <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: QB wing wiring conduit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
> Has anyone installed wiring conduit in quick-build RV-8 wings?
>
> It seems like it would be darn near impossible to drill large holes for
the conduit in the inboard
> ribs that are very close together and virtually inacessible because the
top and bottom skins are
> already riveted on.
>
> That said, is the conduit really necessary anyway? It seems to me that a
lot of people use it
> because, at the time of initial wing construction, they don't know what
types of electrical
> components they want to install and want to be able to pull wires with
ease at a later date. I
> already know what I want to install and have the parts in hand.
>
> All opinions welcome. This is obviouisly something I want/need to sort out
at this stage of the
> game rather than later when the wing is already closed up.
>
> -Geoff Evans
> RV-8 QB Wings
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Need a Wemac eye ball vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6@aol.com
Dave,
I have a brand new 2860-10 which mounts without screws (no mounting plate) in
a 2 3/4" hole. It also includes a 2" SCAT hose adapter made of aluminum. I
will sell for my cost which was just under $100 plus shipping.
Rick McBride
rickrv6@aol.com
In a message dated 1/28/03 3:56:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, DJB6A@cs.com
writes:
> I am looking for 1 Wemac eyeball vent model # 2133 that is the panel mount
> type (no screws on the front). Got the last one from Lancair, they say
> they
> will not be stocking them any longer - too pricey. I have left 2 messages
> with B/E Aerospace, new owners and price triplers. Have spend way to long
> doing searches on the Internet with no luck. Tried Chief, ACS they have the
>
> 2230-1 screw type.
>
> I have limited panel space so Van's vents don't fit. Any help would really
> be
> appreciated.
>
> Dave Burnham
> 6A finishing
> Lincolnshire, IL
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
The existing holes run underneath the aileron bellcrank. How did you get the
conduit past this obstacle?
-Geoff
>>>
--> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Thought the same thing on a 7QB. What we did was get an extention for the
Unibit and drilled out the existing holes for conduit. This provides for a
larger conduit to run the wiring for the strobes/nav lights and landing
lights and potentially an antenna coax. Haven't figured out the pitot tube
plumbing and wiring yet.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
<<<
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Geoff,
Look at the very aft portion of the ribs, there should be tooling holes that
line up on every rib. Unibit these holes out for PVC conduit. These holes
are out of the way of the aileron pushrod exit point on the aft spar.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: QB wing wiring conduit
>Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 15:16:31 -0800 (PST)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
>The existing holes run underneath the aileron bellcrank. How did you get
>the
>conduit past this obstacle?
>
>-Geoff
>
> >>>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
>Thought the same thing on a 7QB. What we did was get an extention for the
>Unibit and drilled out the existing holes for conduit. This provides for a
>larger conduit to run the wiring for the strobes/nav lights and landing
>lights and potentially an antenna coax. Haven't figured out the pitot tube
>plumbing and wiring yet.
>
>Darwin N. Barrie
>Chandler AZ
><<<
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Sealed Batteries (was: PC680 Motorcycle Battery) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 01:33 PM 1/28/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger@ticnet.com>
>
>I have received my new battery from batteries4everything. It was
>shipped by Cell Energy Inc from North Highlands, CA. Cost was $62.55
>plus $11.50 shipping for total cost of $74.05. I expected a $2 handling
>charge but they forgot it.
I use 26 of the SVR-14
http://www.svrbatteries.com/motorcycle_line.html in my electric drag bike
http://www.KillaCycle.com It would seem to me that this particular battery
might be a good candidate for an experimental aircraft battery.
The SVR-14 weighs 11.5 pounds and is rated at 250 cold cranking
amps. They are a sealed lead-acid type battery. On a run down the strip,
when they are warmed up a bit, I regularly (but briefly) pull over 800 amps
from this battery without sagging below 7 volts. I would think they would
not have much trouble turning over an airplane engine (but I could be
wrong.) They seem to be a high quality battery and take the abuse I dish
out with the bike without much complaint.
I bought a whole pallet for the bike and they cost me just over
$40 each. They list for $90. You can get them at
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=&product_id=1907
for $57.50 each, plus shipping of course.
You could step up to the SVR-18 if you have a hard-starting engine
coupled with cold weather. It weighs 17 pounds and is rated 350 CCA.
These are prismatic "valve-regulated, lead-acid" (VRLA) "absorbed
glass mat" (AGM) batteries, somewhat similar to Hawker Genesis series. The
SVR-14's put out more amps per pound, however. :-)
Bill Dube'
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: JVanLaak@aol.com
Listers,
I recently obtained a Century I AP that I want to install in my flying RV.
Although the gyro/computer came with a yellow tag and the servo looks like
new, I do not have a wiring diagram or other install information. If anyone
can help with these, please contact me off-list. Also, I need the connector
for the servo.
Thanks,
Jim Van Laak
RV-3 N112RV
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Century I help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Try Esco Aircraft at: http://www.esscoaircraft.com/
Dave
JVanLaak@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: JVanLaak@aol.com
>
> Listers,
>
> I recently obtained a Century I AP that I want to install in my flying RV.
> Although the gyro/computer came with a yellow tag and the servo looks like
> new, I do not have a wiring diagram or other install information. If anyone
> can help with these, please contact me off-list. Also, I need the connector
> for the servo.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Van Laak
> RV-3 N112RV
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV8 semi quick build kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne" <boyter@mcsi.net>
Jim
What part of the country do you live in?
Thanks
Wayne
Roseburg, Or
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim" <jntambs@voyager.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 semi quick build kit for sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: "jim" <jntambs@voyager.net>
>
> I am selling my kit. The empennage is complete except fiberglass. The
wing is to the fuel tank stage (both wings being built simultaneously). I
have a quick build fuselage. All kits inventoried and complete. The cost
of the kits was over $17,000 excluding shipping. Workmanship is excellent,
evaluated by tech counselor. I want to get the cost of the kits out of
this. This is your chance to get a setup that is almost to the quickbuild
stage without having to wait 9 months or so.
>
> Contact initially by email:
> Jim Tambs
> jntambs@voyager.net
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Need a Wemac eye ball vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Have you tried e-bay? I got a nice pair for $10. I don't know the
model number, but they fit your desc.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DJB6A@cs.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 3:48 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Need a Wemac eye ball vent
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
>
> I am looking for 1 Wemac eyeball vent model # 2133 that is
> the panel mount
> type (no screws on the front). Got the last one from
> Lancair, they say they
> will not be stocking them any longer - too pricey. I have
> left 2 messages
> with B/E Aerospace, new owners and price triplers. Have spend
> way to long
> doing searches on the Internet with no luck. Tried Chief, ACS
> they have the
> 2230-1 screw type.
>
> I have limited panel space so Van's vents don't fit. Any help
> would really be
> appreciated.
>
> Dave Burnham
> 6A finishing
> Lincolnshire, IL
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Century I help |
--> RV-List message posted by: JVanLaak@aol.com
Thanks Dave, I will.
Jim
Message 27
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Can anyone send me a link to a company that makes tip tanks for the RV7 And 8?
Thanks
DOC
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Can anyone send me a link to a company that makes tip tanks for the RV7
And 8?
> Thanks
> DOC
http://www.vansaircraft.com
TANK, WINGTIP/EXT TANK W/EXT A650 LIGHT $2230.00
TANK, WINGTIP/EXT-A TANK W/EXT A650 LIGHT $2230.00
TANK, WINGTIP/INT TANK W/INT A650 LIGHT $2275.00
TANK, WINGTIP/INT-A TANK W/INT A650 LIGHT $2275.00
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Landing/taxi lts on tail dragger |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank Smidler <smidler@dcwi.com>
To the flyers who drag thier tails at night, how do you have your landing and taxi
lights aimed? Is
it neccessary to have the taxi light aimed down more then the landing light to
get good effect on
both? Is it neccessary to shut off the high aimed landing light when taxing in
order not to blind
other planes?
A second issue I have, is it advisable to seperate the position light switch and
the instrument
light switch? I was thinking of using one switch (two seperate circuits) to turn
them on at the
same time. To anyone who has an AEC dimmer, I assume that it does not have an
off function, just a
brightness function. Can you confirm this.
Frank Smidler
RV-6
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
HI Dan,
I may be mistaken but I think that the wing TIp Tanks you quoted from Vans
are not for the RV7 but only the 6 style wing tip. I don't think anyone has
tip tanks available yet for the 7...???
Ned
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: tip tanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > Can anyone send me a link to a company that makes tip tanks for the RV7
> And 8?
> > Thanks
> > DOC
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com
>
> TANK, WINGTIP/EXT TANK W/EXT A650 LIGHT $2230.00
> TANK, WINGTIP/EXT-A TANK W/EXT A650 LIGHT $2230.00
> TANK, WINGTIP/INT TANK W/INT A650 LIGHT $2275.00
> TANK, WINGTIP/INT-A TANK W/INT A650 LIGHT $2275.00
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Fw: Taylorcraft: off subject - AIRPLANES VS. WOMEN |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: gene french
Subject: Fw: Taylorcraft: off subject - AIRPLANES VS. WOMEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Jones
Subject: Taylorcraft: off subject - AIRPLANES VS. WOMEN
With appologies to the women on the list..........
AIRPLANES VS. WOMEN
Airplanes can kill you quickly; a woman takes her time.
Airplanes can be turned on by a flick of a switch.
Airplanes don't get mad if you 'touch and go.'
Airplanes don't object to a preflight inspection.
Airplanes operate inverted.
Airplanes come with manuals to explain their operation.
Airplanes have strict weight and balance limits.
Airplanes can be flown any time of the month.
Airplanes don't come with in-laws.
Airplanes don't care about how many other airplanes you have flown before.
Airplanes and pilots both arrive at the same time.
Airplanes don't complain if you hose them down.
Airplanes don't mind if you like to look at other airplanes.
Airplanes expect to be tied down.
Airplanes don't comment on your piloting skills.
Airplanes don't whine unless something is really wrong.
However, when airplanes go quiet, just like a woman, it's a bad thing.
Taylorcraft Subscription info; www.taylorcraft.org/links.html
Archive; www.topica.com/lists/taylorcraft/read.
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Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: QB wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
I used a small unibit on an extension to drill a pilot hole then used a 1/2"
electrical "knockout" (actual size 7/8") obtained at an electrical supply
store for the final size. Wasn't easy but got the job done!
Wayne
RV-8A QB
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Evans" <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: QB wing wiring conduit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
> Has anyone installed wiring conduit in quick-build RV-8 wings?
>
> It seems like it would be darn near impossible to drill large holes for
the conduit in the inboard
> ribs that are very close together and virtually inacessible because the
top and bottom skins are
> already riveted on.
>
> That said, is the conduit really necessary anyway? It seems to me that a
lot of people use it
> because, at the time of initial wing construction, they don't know what
types of electrical
> components they want to install and want to be able to pull wires with
ease at a later date. I
> already know what I want to install and have the parts in hand.
>
> All opinions welcome. This is obviouisly something I want/need to sort out
at this stage of the
> game rather than later when the wing is already closed up.
>
> -Geoff Evans
> RV-8 QB Wings
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Little washers in tight places |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Can anyone share their tricks for getting little washers into tight places
without dropping them?
For example, the washers used as spacers in the aileron and elevator mounting
brackets. It takes me a really long time to get washers on the bolts inside the
mounting brackets. There has to be a better (easier) way to do this that
doesn't involve as much cursing...
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
Wings
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