Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:10 AM - Re: ENABLE SWITCH (Jerry Springer)
2. 12:21 AM - Congrats (Arthur and Christine)
3. 12:46 AM - Re: Panel cutting (Alex Peterson)
4. 02:38 AM - Re: ENABLE SWITCH (Jim Sears)
5. 03:36 AM - FAA/TSA rule 14293 (Alex Peterson)
6. 05:06 AM - Re: Re: Instrument flying in RV's (Wes)
7. 07:21 AM - Ergonomics - was "Starter Enable" (T Bronson)
8. 08:17 AM - Re: Columbia Tragedy (Elsa & Henry)
9. 08:19 AM - Re: ENABLE SWITCH (Meketa)
10. 08:57 AM - RV-6A tail kit, never opened (Jeff Dowling)
11. 09:09 AM - Fw: off topic request - 20A DPDT (ON) OFF (ON) switch (C. Rabaut)
12. 09:37 AM - Fw: Starter enable switch etc. (Curt Reimer)
13. 10:49 AM - Re: Fw: Starter enable switch etc. (Jerry Springer)
14. 11:59 AM - KX125 wiring (HCRV6@aol.com)
15. 01:22 PM - Cycling Voltage Question (Gary Graham)
16. 02:00 PM - Re: Panel cutting (Mark Fowler)
17. 03:45 PM - Props for sale (Doug Weiler)
18. 04:20 PM - Fw: stick grip functions (Jim Lane)
19. 04:43 PM - Columbia (Rob W M Shipley)
20. 05:56 PM - Re: RV Builders' Yeller Pages new URL (Vanremog@aol.com)
21. 06:13 PM - Re: Fw: stick grip functions (Jerry Springer)
22. 07:11 PM - Re: Props for sale (Wes)
23. 07:12 PM - >Re: Props for sale (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
24. 07:44 PM - interior paint woes (Dan Checkoway)
25. 08:47 PM - Shuttle Disaster (ghaley)
26. 08:59 PM - Engine Turning - Redux (Terence Gannon)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: ENABLE SWITCH |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
As I said "my opinion" and worth what you paid for it.
I still say it is stupid. BTW I am not a builder anymore
I have been flying my RV for 14 years.
Hopefully you well never get into a tense flying situation
where you start griping that stick and pushing all those
switches at once.
Jerry
do not archive
Meketa wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
>
> Sounds like a side-by-side builder to me. Most of these starter button
> questions are from 8 builders and side-by-siders should take this into
> account before commenting.. The 8 is very similar but also very different
> than the 6 and 7's. The 4 is different too, most have been religiously kept
> light and have simpler systems than the average 8.
>
> I saw no way to make my plane user friendly and look good without
> the switches on the grip. These are not neccessarily big safety items, but
> are more conveniant and ergonomic. I guess I am "stupid" for doing
> it this way.
>
> PROS:
>
> 1. Can start the with a hand on the throttle while holding the
> stick back with the other hand. I have acquired the bad habit
> of wanting to always hold the stick full aft when starting. I will
> have to work on that.
> 2. The flaps can be controlled on landing, takeoff and in the pattern
> without moving hands from the stick and throttle. The pilots
> flap switch can be flipped up and the flaps come up and shut
> off after landing and when using flaps for takeoff. Could not be
> easier unless the flaps became automatic. Maybe some voice
> activated flaps?
> 3. The auto pilot and altitude hold can be selected and turned off
> without letting go of the stick. Much safer when a hand can be
> kept on the stick while selections and disconnects are made.
> 4. Can have true dual controls in a tandem and still look good at the
> same time. Many do not care, but I wanted the backseater to
> have these functions if I want.
> 5. Fuel pump can be tuned off, flaps can be run up, trim can be
> reset for takeoff. All at the same time, while rolling out on landing,
> with hands ready on the stick and throttle. And with just the wiggle
> of a couple of fingers.
>
> CONS:
>
> 1. Costs more? So what. Worth every penny.
> 2. More difficult to use and remember? If you can fly an airplane a well
> designed system will not be a problem. A couple of flights will make a
> believer out of you. Well, most of you. Some never seem to see it any
> way but the same old way.
> 3. Difficult to install? I can see how it can intimidate some. I have a 24
> pin connector coming from the pair of grips. A lot of time was spent
> thinking about how I wanted it to all work. Do it one system at
> a time and it is no more difficult than an RV8 canopy skirt.
> 4. Weighs more? Got me there. Install more horsepower. I will take the
> Corvette over the MG every time. (I do enjoy the MG's too. Don't
> tell anyone. I will not admit to it.)
>
> Would I do it the same again. YES
>
> Be sure and DO NOT ARCHIVE.
>
> George Meketa
> RV-8, N444TX, 244.1 hours
>
>
>>I cannot understand how having any of those things on the stick CAN add
>>to the safety of the flight IMO it is stupid to have starter buttons,
>>landing lights etc. on the stick. I do have elevator trim and push to
>>talk on mine but see no godd reason for the others. But then I guess I
>>have been flying UN safe for almost 40 years. Remember we are building
>>and flying recreational vehicles not 747s.
>>
>>Just my opinion and worth what you paid for it. $0.00
>>
>>Jerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Arthur and Christine" <act1@reap.org.nz>
Thanks to all for the congrats re the first flight of our RV-8.
Our feelings go out to all after the tragic loss of the Columbia
Sincerely,
Arthur ans Christine
RV-8 flying
do not archive
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Best would be if you can find a hand nibbler which will cut material the
thickness of the panel. No dust from a hacksaw. I'm not at home, so I
can't tell if my Adel brand would work. Handy tool.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 251 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> I know some of you guys have done this, and I need to know
> how since I didn't build my RV. I plan to install a new radio
> and need to cut out a larger hole. What tool would be the
> best (easiest) to use without removing the panel?
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: ENABLE SWITCH |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
> Sounds like a side-by-side builder to me. Most of these starter button
> questions are from 8 builders and side-by-siders should take this into
> account before commenting.. The 8 is very similar but also very different
> than the 6 and 7's. The 4 is different too, most have been religiously
kept
> light and have simpler systems than the average 8.
>
Since I made my statements about the switches on the grip, and the fact that
mine is very simple, I've had that thrown back that I must be a side by side
builder. Yes, I do have a side-by-side RV-6A; but, I'm around a lot of
RVers and am very familiar with the -8s and -4s. Granted, the -4 is very
small inside and has very little panel space. Those guys have to come up
with innovative ideas for putting stuff in their panels. However, the -8
is wider, has more panel space, and has nice panels for things in other
locations; so, little, if any, of its panel space is lost to nothingness.
Instead of doing something quite different for my starter switch, I used a
keyed switch that took care of three switches, at least. They were the mags
and the starter. Very simple to install and less panel space used. If I'm
correct, I also got the benefit of its automatically turning off one mag as
I start the engine. Very good if you don't want kickbacks. Having a key is
nice, too, if one wants a little added security to keep honest people
honest. It probably does nothing for crooks. To me, this arrangement is
more of the "standard" that I was implying. I personally don't care for
individual switches for mags and starter, either. However, they do work,
even though they do take up a little more panel landscape. That's why I'm
kinda having a problem with anyone's wanting to put a starter switch on a
grip. Even though it may make sense to some of the rest of you guys, it
makes no sense to me. To me, it falls out of favor with KISS. That's all.
You guys do what you want. I like my simple PTT switch only on the stick.
The rest will remain on the panel where I like them. :-)
BTW, we talk about "standard" and what it is. Remember that it is
speculated that John Denver crashed a Long EZ into the sea and was killed
because the fuel selector was in a "non-standard" location. Of course, he
did take off with very little gas. We can't rule out his stupidity for not
putting some gas in the airplane, to start with. Still, he might have been
able to switch tanks before hitting the water had he had the selector where
it was designed to be. Granted, the builder of the EZ had no problems with
it because he built it for himself; but, he sold it to someone else. Having
a starter switch on the stick won't be a big deal like that; but, some other
things may. It's like the throttle quadrant in the center I was talking
about. It's going to work just fine; but, I'd probably feel uncomfortable
about it on a test flight. The owner may not because it takes him back to
his old WWII bomber days in B-26s. I was encouraging him to use a more
"standard" setup because I know there's a good chance he'll be selling it
later. Something to think about. It's a fact that many of us don't keep
our RVs for very long. We end up building another!
I must confess that I did have to change a couple of switches on my RV.
When I set mine up, I had the primer switch up near the throttle because I
thought it would be good there at start up time. I put the flap switch down
near the fuel selector valve. Guess what. I caught myself using the primer
switch for the flap switch quite often. I guess it wasn't "standard"
enough. I ended up swapping the locations on the two switches. Now, things
are more "standard" to my older brain. I can keep my hand on the throttle
and toggle the flap switch with the same hand without leaving the throttle.
Much better.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | FAA/TSA rule 14293 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> I just paid a visit to:
>
> http://dms.dot.gov
>
While the posts to the "edict" will certainly help, everyone who enjoys
flight, and indeed our freedom, should urge his/her congressional
members to raise some heat on this one. It takes surprisingly few
focused letters to make a difference.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 251 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument flying in RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wes" <whays@camalott.com>
Thanks to Camille, Alex, Laird, and Terrence for your response. Quite
amazingly you confirmed some of the numbers I have been trying to work on.
Now it is practice time, to see what works best for me.
I didn't hear from Fred Stucklen, but if anyone has his e-mail address I
would like to contact him personally.
God Bless America!
Wes Hays
"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
Michael Collins (1987)
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Ergonomics - was "Starter Enable" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "T Bronson" <bipetype@hotmail.com>
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>
>Tim, ever flown a -4 or -8?
Why, yes! I'll have you know that I have OVER 30 MINUTES of actual
hands-on, sole manipulator of the controls RV-8 time! Uh...in
the...ahem...back seat. Non-formation.
>I fly quite a bit of formation and have my radio
>stack on the right
>http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/DSCN0025.JPG
>and am right handed. The panels on these planes are so small that reaching
>across really isn't a big deal. Also, changing hands on the stick is no
>problem either. I use both techniques with my radios.
Okay, point well taken. My perspective was from a few hundred hours of
biplane flying, much of it in formation. I resolved, when dealing with
things "in the wrong place," that I would design my airplane to minimize any
need to reach across my body or change hands.
...<snip>...
>Having owned a Citabria before building my -8 I
>already knew what worked for me and how I wanted my panel. No regrets, >it
>works fine in real life.
That, of course, is the bottom line.
>food for thought
Yes. I was trying to provide the same with my long-winded post.
You based some of your design on your Citabria experience. I'm thinking
from a Stearman and Great Lakes perspective. Both of us are approaching
this with previous tandem experience, which brings up a good point: for one
who plans to build a RV-4 or -8/8A, it might be worthwhile to
beg/borrow/steal some time in a tandem airplane to have a look at these
issues yourself if you have only flown side by side.
Finally, nice panel, Randy! Looks good!
Tim
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Columbia Tragedy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Thanks to Dan and Patty for expressing my thoughts too. There is an ironic
twist to this tragedy. I was the program manager for the electronics
subsystem on the Shuttle Remote Manipulator System (Canada Arm) that was
designed and built in Montreal.-- Canada has a very close relationship to
the USA and NASA and I can assure our American neighbors that the pain of
this loss is shared by all of us. I was privileged to be invited by NASA in
June 1982 to tour their facilities and witness the launch of STS-4,
Columbia's last test flight before the system became fully operational, as
it did. Thinking back to that experience of seeing that beautiful bird
lifting-off and disappearing into the heavens saddened me terribly to think
it is no more. The irony I mentioned above, is the item I worked on (the
manipulator arm) survived because it was removed before this fatal flight.
My deepest Sympathy and Heart-felt Condolences go out to the Family for the
loss of their loved ones.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: ENABLE SWITCH |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
This discussion just will not go away. I am not trying to insult the side-
by-siders, it just seems that these comments all come from them.
They do not take into consideration the differences between the
planes and that we have different needs as far as arranging things.
The post started as a question concerning an enable switch that would
not keep the starter switch on the grip live. The builder wanted a safe
system and had a valid question. It has transformed into a couple of
6 builders telling us that this is the wrong thing to do. I guess I will
have to be the only defender of the stick grip starter switch since no
others will. Yesterday I saw three RV8's at LaGrange with grip
controlled starters and am sure there are many more. This is not a fad.
It is becoming more common every day.
The 4 is simpler than the 8. Most have manual trim, manual flaps, no
auto pilot, and no electronic ignition. Only a fuel pump switch is needed.
This is pretty different from many 8's. I had originally got the idea for
the
Infinity and the starter button from an RV4. This was a very nice, simple
and clean plane. He let me sit in it, explained the system and let me
know how much he liked it. I saw and felt for myself that the grip was
very ergonomic and there were many benefits to this system. It does
not just look cool, it works well too. The ones making the comments
have not tried one.
Concerning keyed ignition switches. I have never liked them and never
will. There heve been plenty of problems with switch failures. Also I
personally do not like the way they look and work. If electronic ignition
is used, one can just as easily leave off one switch or design it so both
can be left on and the electronic will be turned off while cranking if
need be. A key switch is not needed for this. As far as theft, a key
switch is for peace of mind, not to prevent theft.
As far as standard goes, installing switches on the grip can be just as
standard as a key switch. In a properly designed system everything
is accessible by moving a finger. If the finger is not moved there is no
chance of activation, even with a death hold on the Infinity grip.
The John Denver thing has nothing to do with this. We are not putting
things farther from reach, we are putting them closer.
What is wrong with a center throttle quadrant on a 6? If the controls
are well laid out in the normal order, the quadrant is smooth in function
and the necessary switches needed are in logical places and easily
accessable, there is no problem. All the twins and even many
singles have quadrants in the center . There is nothing non-standard
about this. This guy is building an experimental. If he does a nice
job it could be better than the "standard" controls. If I had built a 6
it would have had a left side quadrant like Lyle's 6. He even sold
it - probably for a lot of money.
The weather here is bad for flying or I would not be writing this right
now. DO NOT ARCHIVE
George Meketa
RV-8, N444TX, 241.1 hours
> Since I made my statements about the switches on the grip, and the fact
that
> mine is very simple, I've had that thrown back that I must be a side by
side
> builder. Yes, I do have a side-by-side RV-6A; but, I'm around a lot of
> RVers and am very familiar with the -8s and -4s. Granted, the -4 is very
> small inside and has very little panel space. Those guys have to come up
> with innovative ideas for putting stuff in their panels. However, the -8
> is wider, has more panel space, and has nice panels for things in other
> locations; so, little, if any, of its panel space is lost to nothingness.
>
> Instead of doing something quite different for my starter switch, I used
a
> keyed switch that took care of three switches, at least. They were the
mags
> and the starter. Very simple to install and less panel space used. If
I'm
> correct, I also got the benefit of its automatically turning off one mag
as
> I start the engine. Very good if you don't want kickbacks. Having a key
is
> nice, too, if one wants a little added security to keep honest people
> honest. It probably does nothing for crooks. To me, this arrangement is
> more of the "standard" that I was implying. I personally don't care for
> individual switches for mags and starter, either. However, they do work,
> even though they do take up a little more panel landscape. That's why I'm
> kinda having a problem with anyone's wanting to put a starter switch on a
> grip. Even though it may make sense to some of the rest of you guys, it
> makes no sense to me. To me, it falls out of favor with KISS. That's
all.
> You guys do what you want. I like my simple PTT switch only on the stick.
> The rest will remain on the panel where I like them. :-)
>
> BTW, we talk about "standard" and what it is. Remember that it is
> speculated that John Denver crashed a Long EZ into the sea and was killed
> because the fuel selector was in a "non-standard" location. Of course, he
> did take off with very little gas. We can't rule out his stupidity for
not
> putting some gas in the airplane, to start with. Still, he might have
been
> able to switch tanks before hitting the water had he had the selector
where
> it was designed to be. Granted, the builder of the EZ had no problems
with
> it because he built it for himself; but, he sold it to someone else.
Having
> a starter switch on the stick won't be a big deal like that; but, some
other
> things may. It's like the throttle quadrant in the center I was talking
> about. It's going to work just fine; but, I'd probably feel uncomfortable
> about it on a test flight. The owner may not because it takes him back to
> his old WWII bomber days in B-26s. I was encouraging him to use a more
> "standard" setup because I know there's a good chance he'll be selling it
> later. Something to think about. It's a fact that many of us don't keep
> our RVs for very long. We end up building another!
>
> I must confess that I did have to change a couple of switches on my RV.
> When I set mine up, I had the primer switch up near the throttle because I
> thought it would be good there at start up time. I put the flap switch
down
> near the fuel selector valve. Guess what. I caught myself using the
primer
> switch for the flap switch quite often. I guess it wasn't "standard"
> enough. I ended up swapping the locations on the two switches. Now,
things
> are more "standard" to my older brain. I can keep my hand on the throttle
> and toggle the flap switch with the same hand without leaving the
throttle.
> Much better.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
> EAA Tech Counselor
> do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV-6A tail kit, never opened |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I have a new, sealed tail kit for a 6a that I no longer need. I wimped out and
bought one mostly complete. Any recommendations on where I can sell this?
Thanks
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a
Chicago
shempdowling@earthlink.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | off topic request - 20A DPDT (ON) OFF (ON) switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Chris,
If you don't find one elsewhere, I'm pretty sure I can deliver one.
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: off topic request
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> Sorry for the off topic request but I am out of options. I need a 20A
> DPDT (ON) OFF (ON) switch. I have searched digikey.com mouser.com and
> mcmaster.com all with no luck. Please help.
>
>
> do not archive
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Fw: Starter enable switch etc. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
> Does this mean that a pilot would be unable to attempt an airstart
without
> manipulating mag switches?
>
> I agree with the other posts about non-standard switches and controls.
> There are numerous threads about liability in the archives, this would be
a
> liability worry issue for me after I sold the aircraft.
I have my mag switches set up so that the starter is only enabled if the
left impulse-coupled mag is on by itself. Saves the chance of backfiring if
someone, including me, tries a start with both mags engaged. Since I am not
using a key switch, it also serves as a possible defeat switch for someone
messing with my plane. Placarding this would give a thief the starting
instructions, but for safety it's probably a good idea. I may do that.
From what I have heard, it is pretty hard to get the prop to stop
windmilling on a gliding RV, so airstarts generally wouldn't require the use
of the starter.
Liability may well be an issue, but this is something that would take all
of 10 minutes to rewire to a "conventional" arrangement when I sell the
airplane. As for someone borrowing the airplane on my authority, they can
damn well memorize the starting procedure or they don't fly MY airplane.
I'm all for standarized controls, and I agree with most of what the pros
have commented on here but this mag switch business is going a bit far. Do I
have to have a Cessna key switch and a red plastic split rocker master
switch too? That is another area where I have deviated from convention, if
convention is defined as a post 1970 spam can.
I'm a bit unnerved at just how many variations from standard there are in
the average homebuilt. But by and large these are single-pilot airplanes,
and I think most RV pilots could operate any electrical item, including the
starter, blindfolded if they had to.
Now if an unconventional arrangement is obviously dangerous in some way,
like John Denver's fuel selector location, then no, we shouldn't do it.
Starter switch on the stick - hmmm maybe. But being
unconventional doesn't automatically mean dangerous. Sometimes
unconventional might be an improvement. That's how we got as far as we did.
There was a time when the "conventional control arrangement" involved lying
on one's belly in a hip cradle that warped the wings. (I finally got to use
the "Wright Brothers Defence" on the RV list! :-)
Curt
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Starter enable switch etc. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Curt Reimer wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
>
> > Does this mean that a pilot would be unable to attempt an airstart
> without
> > manipulating mag switches?
> >
> > I agree with the other posts about non-standard switches and controls.
> > There are numerous threads about liability in the archives, this would be
> a
> > liability worry issue for me after I sold the aircraft.
>
> I have my mag switches set up so that the starter is only enabled if the
> left impulse-coupled mag is on by itself. Saves the chance of backfiring if
> someone, including me, tries a start with both mags engaged. Since I am not
> using a key switch, it also serves as a possible defeat switch for someone
> messing with my plane. Placarding this would give a thief the starting
> instructions, but for safety it's probably a good idea. I may do that.
>
> From what I have heard, it is pretty hard to get the prop to stop
> windmilling on a gliding RV, so airstarts generally wouldn't require the use
> of the starter.
>
Curt depends on which prop you use. Constant speed maybe it well keep
windmilling but if a wood prop is being used it is almost impossible to
keep it spinning. When I was using wood props I stopped the prop
spinning several time with different wood props and each time had to
use the starter to get it spinning again. I suppose it would have
started spinning if I had done a high speed dive and then pulled the
nose up but this only works if there is enough altitude.
Jerry
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Hi Cliff, tried to post this to you direct but got bum address message so
here goes:
I have a KX125 from Van's (who by the way is not prewiring the harness any
longer) and have been trying to figure out how to wire the bloody thing for a
month with little success so far. I called King directly and got virtually
no help at all, except that they did seem to know that the AUX AUDIO 1, 2, 3
that you asked about are internal intercom functions, but the guy I was
talking to could not explain how to connect
them. I have a separate intercom in my panel so have decided to ignore
those. If you find anyone who knows how to wire one of these units I'd sure
appreciate a chance to get some advice from them.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 15
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| Subject: | Cycling Voltage Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Graham <beeb@teleport.com>
I have seen this problem with the 35 amp systems from Van's.
Many problems eventually manifest themselves due to lack of a 35 Amp return
to the alternator(GROUND) The anodized brackets do not make for good
grounds, as it is an insulator. Your ohm meter may show a ground from
shields , small ground wires, and scratches in the anodizing, but this is
not enough. Not only is the output limited, but over the long haul it is
likely that the stress on the system will cause some partial or complete
failures. Make sure you have a ground return path that will handle the
rated output of the alternator. This is just one of the problems that I
have seen on RV electric's, but it's worth your consideration.
GG
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Fowler" <mark@fowlerssheetmetal.com>
Paul, I know you don't want to hear this but since you don't want to remove
the panel
there is no easy, clean way to cut the hole. If you can supply the CAD
drawing I'd be glad
to Laser cut you a new panel for just the cost of the material.
Mark www.fowlerssheetmetal.com
Mark Fowler
mark@fowlerssheetmetal.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Panel cutting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> Best would be if you can find a hand nibbler which will cut material the
> thickness of the panel. No dust from a hacksaw. I'm not at home, so I
> can't tell if my Adel brand would work. Handy tool.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 251 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
> > I know some of you guys have done this, and I need to know
> > how since I didn't build my RV. I plan to install a new radio
> > and need to cut out a larger hole. What tool would be the
> > best (easiest) to use without removing the panel?
> >
>
>
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Fellow Listers:
One of our members has the following for sale:
Aymer-Demuth wood prop for 180 hp Lycoming - airworthy - removed to install
metal prop.
Irlbeck Pacesetter prop - great for the fireplace - the price is right
Contact Tom Berge at: tberge@libertysite.com, 763-541-9306
Thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Fw: stick grip functions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Lane" <jlane@crosscountybank.com>
Free Web Email & Filter Enhancements.
http://www.freewebemail.com/filtertools/
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Lane
Subject: stick grip functions
Jerry,
I certainly did not mean to imply that flying without certain grip functions makes
anyone unsafe.
However, I must disagree that having other functions is stupid!
I also fly some airplanes that have nothing other than a PTT button on the stick,
and some that do not even have a PTT on the stick! I do not feel that makes
my flying unsafe, nor do I think that adding other switches makes one unsafe.
It makes me wonder why you think anything other than a PTT and elevator control
is stupid.
Using that kind of logic, how do you justify the trim or even the PTT functions?
Just wondering. I really would like to hear why you think is stupid. Perhaps I
need to be enlightened.
Jim
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
Although deeply saddened I sent no post to the list about this topic for lack of
anything I felt expressed my thoughts and feelings adequately.
Ken Brooks said it perfectly for me.
Watching the television coverage of the loss of the shuttle and crew, I
was struck by the close-up video footage by those who taped the event.
Knowing full well how tragic it was, I was still struck by the "beauty"
of what I was watching -- like a shooting star or a bright comet, things
that have always held my fascination and awe. It's that same wonder and
awe that made me want to fly airplanes -- the spectacular views, the
sensations of flight, the views of the clouds from above -- the list
goes on and on. It is indeed an unforgiving environment we pilots work
and play in. My prayers go out to the astronauts and their families.
They are my heroes. They've slipped the surly bonds of earth and now
may they truly be touching the face of God.
Thank you Ken. God bless them all.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
Do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RV Builders' Yeller Pages new URL |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
Thanks to all of you who have graciously offered to host the Yeller Pages,
giving a well deserved respite to the relocating Mike Hartmann. Matt Dralle
is now the proud recipient of the torch, because is the main man in virtually
all other RV respects, so I trust they will be in good hands. I will
continue to update them twice yearly until someone more studly rises from the
ranks to carry them forward.
Those of you having the Yeller Pages listed in your Bookmarks or Favorite
Places menus should redirect them to <http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages>.
Thank you all for your kind words of support.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 590hrs)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: stick grip functions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> From: Jim Lane
> To: jsflyrv@earthlink.net
> Subject: stick grip functions
>
>
> Jerry,
>
> I certainly did not mean to imply that flying without certain grip functions
makes anyone unsafe.
>
> However, I must disagree that having other functions is stupid!
>
Then I would suggest you build to suit your needs and not give a thought
to what I or anyone else thinks. As I have said it is my opinion and
worth what you pay. Running all of those wires to the stick grip only
creates more potential failure points IMO. Even in my "side by side"
I can reach any point on the panal that requires any attention without
having the stick cluttered with system switches.
Any way build what makes you happy.
Jerry
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Props for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wes" <whays@camalott.com>
Listers,
I have a friend who is an A&P and overhauls and assembles engines. He is in
need of an old prop to use as a club for test runs. If anyone out there has
one they would like to part with, please e-mail me off-list at
whays@camalott.com
Thanks,
Wes Hays
Winters TX
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: >Re: Props for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
What's wrong with a guy who won't quote his price when he has something for
sale??????????
If you want to sell it ; put all the info up !!!!!!!!!!
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 24
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| Subject: | interior paint woes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I've scoured the archives in search of tips and information, but I'm still
coming up short.
After screwing around with Cardinal air-dry acrylic enamel spray cans, and
being very unhappy with its durability and its tendency to splatter dark
drops on the piece, I switched to Sherwin Williams single-stage Dimension
3.5 urethane enamel. I'm using the reducer and hardener that my local auto
paint shop sold me, and I'm mixing it 5:1:1 as the instructions say to do.
I'm having a couple of problems:
1) Dust, dust, and more dust. I'm painting the parts on table tops on top
of masking paper, so maybe that's the problem right there...but I've got
plastic up all around my garage and I tried wetting the floor down and
everything, yet I still get dust particles in there like crazy. Is there
any way to fix/buff/sand that out after the fact? I've got 1000 and 2000
grit wet/dry sand paper, but even the 2000 grit takes the gloss right off.
What to do? Do most people hang parts to paint them? How do you stabilize
small lightweight parts? I've seen people hang wires beneath the part to
grab, but I don't think that will stabilize this stuff well enough (little
cover panels, etc.).
2) Color bleed. Bleed is probably the wrong term. I'm using a light gray,
and in several spots on almost all of the pieces, the color comes out
lighter in splotches. It doesn't seem to have anything to do with how much
paint I'm putting on, because even on subsequent coats (20-30 minutes later)
the lighter splotches bleed right through. The gloss is totally consistent,
it's just the color that's off in these spots. It's totally unpredictable
in that light splotches pop up in random spots. Could this have something
to do with temperature or moisture or the wrong reducer? I have an inline
moisture filter at the regulator and another one at the gun (and yes, it's a
clean, non-oiled hose). Could this have anything to do with the type of
gloves I'm wearing and handling the parts with? The spots don't seem to
coincide with handling, but I'm not ruling that out.
For what it's worth, I'm spraying with a touch-up sprayer from Harbor
Freight. Please don't tell me to spend lots of money on an HVLP sprayer...I
know there are people out there who have successfully painted their
interiors with cheap touch-up guns... I'm generally happy with the gloss
and finish (other than the dust), it's just the color thing that's plaguing
me right now.
I'm very happy with the durability and finish that this Dimension paint
seems to have...it's just these little pesky problems that are dragging me
down right now. Any advice is much appreciated!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 25
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| Subject: | Shuttle Disaster |
--> RV-List message posted by: "ghaley" <ghaley@wt.net>
I just cannot help expressing my heart felt sympathy for
those lost in the service of our country, especially the
families of the seven Astronauts. I must admit I was very
hurt when I viewed the disaster on TV, but what about our
soldiers lost in Afganistan and other areas of the world?
Their loss was just as tragic to their faimlies and no flags
were lowered. Sorry I just had to express my feelings here.
Do not archive.
Gary, Houston. TX
Message 26
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| Subject: | Engine Turning - Redux |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terence Gannon" <terence.gannon@telus.net>
Regular readers of the RV-List will still be laughing about my post a
couple of weeks back about 'scallop polishing'. Listers being the
tactful bunch they are, I was politely informed that the technique is
called engine turning and was given a ton of great advice -- thanx to
all that responded. I've investigated doing this myself, and while
entirely feasible with a little time and effort, I figured that to get
the precise effect I was looking for, I would actually have to do the
polishing PRIOR to the folding of the flanges and the bending of the
firewall recess. I was in the midst of composing my note to Van's about
shipping me the unfolded blanks when my wife (who is MUCH smarter than
me) said "why don't you have someone down there do it?" Geez, I wish I
had thought of that!
Which gets me to my question -- could any lister in the Portland area
recommended an outfit that could do the engine turning on the blanks of
the firewall and recess. I imagine that it would be an outfit that
would do it for the drag racing/hot rod community. Ideally, it would be
an outfit that wouldn't mind picking up and dropping off at Van's.
Assuming this all comes together, I would be happy to post the results,
and perhaps there are other Rvers that would be interesting in the same
treatment. Thank you, in advance, for your assistance. Cheers.
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
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