Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:28 AM - Grounding strobe shielding on RV's (czechsix@juno.com)
2. 04:48 AM - Front Wheel Pant Help (Jim Norman)
3. 05:04 AM - Re: (MCS CALIBRATION, INC.)
4. 05:27 AM - Filtered Air Box for Sale (Raymond Wallace)
5. 05:39 AM - Re: Trim (Miller Robert)
6. 05:50 AM - Fw: Panel cutting (Mark Fowler)
7. 06:20 AM - Re: Trim (Kevin Horton)
8. 07:35 AM - Re: Trim (Boyd C. Braem)
9. 07:49 AM - Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's (Brian Denk)
10. 08:02 AM - Re: Trim (Dave von Linsowe)
11. 09:35 AM - Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's (Elsa & Henry)
12. 10:37 AM - brake mounting flange (Jeff Point)
13. 11:08 AM - Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's (Wes)
14. 11:12 AM - Countersinking the E-606 PP rear spar (Jose del Peso)
15. 11:41 AM - Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's (RW)
16. 12:03 PM - Re: brake mounting flange (Elsa & Henry)
17. 12:32 PM - Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's (Brian Denk)
18. 12:55 PM - Re: Countersinking the E-606 PP rear spar (Jeff Point)
19. 01:04 PM - Re: Countersinking the E-606 PP rear spar (Dana Overall)
20. 01:12 PM - Re: Countersinking the E-606 PP rear spar (Don R Jordan)
21. 03:19 PM - RV Pilot Don Crum (Glenn Brasch)
22. 04:06 PM - Re: Sidetone (Eustace Bowhay)
23. 04:44 PM - tinted canopy (Bert Forero)
24. 04:47 PM - Cabin speaker.. (Bert Forero)
25. 04:57 PM - Re: Re: Canopy seal (Bert Forero)
26. 05:18 PM - Re: Front Wheel Pant Help (Jim Oke)
27. 05:54 PM - Re: Cabin speaker.. (Jerry Springer)
28. 06:01 PM - Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's (Jerry Springer)
29. 06:27 PM - Re: Cabin speaker/noise (Richard Sipp)
30. 06:35 PM - Re: Cabin speaker.. (Sam Buchanan)
31. 06:36 PM - Wiring harness heads up (Kevin Horton)
32. 06:38 PM - Re: interior paint woes (lucky macy)
33. 06:50 PM - (Ron Patterson)
34. 07:11 PM - Sams 1999 classic RV-6 (Jerry Springer)
35. 07:13 PM - Re:Cabin speaker/noise (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
36. 08:37 PM - Re: tinted canopy (Larry Pardue)
37. 10:31 PM - Flying into Vegas (Ken Cantrell)
38. 10:36 PM - Paint woes...Dirt (Dick DeCramer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Grounding strobe shielding on RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
I posted this to the aeroelectric list to get 'lectric Bob's opinion but
thought a survey of the RV-list might be worthwhile too. I assume
everyone is grounding the strobe shielding at the power supply, but how
about at the strobe heads? For those of you flying, did you ground the
shielding at the strobe heads or not, and do you get any strobe noise
with your setup?
Thanks for any input...--Mark
Bob,
I'm interested in getting the strobe wire shield grounding philosophy
clarified....understand you recommend for composite aircraft to ground
the shielding to the strobe head body, whereas on a metal aircraft to
leave the shield at the strobe head end unconnected. Is that correct?
Now, on the RV series, of course most of the wing is metal BUT the
wingtip is fiberglass so the strobe body is not mounted directly on the
metal airframe. So what do you recommend in this case?
I think most guys with RV's leave the strobe head end of the shielding
unconnected but a friend with an RV-8 using this scheme has some strobe
noise coming through the headset. Have no idea if grounding the strobe
ends of the shielding would make a difference hence the question (he has
the power supply end grounded).
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D firewall forward stuff...
Message 2
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| Subject: | Front Wheel Pant Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@intermapsystems.com>
All,
I am quite unhappy with the quality of the front wheel pant on my 6A. It was
the old gelcoat style (circa 1996) and is not near the quality of the newer
style main leg pants (pressure recovery) that I have.
Thus, I bought a new front leg pant (just the pant, not the gear leg
fairing) from Vans.
Here is what I need: I don't have any plans/measurements of where to cut
this thing (I don't even have the old plans for the old one). I need to
know where to cut the holes, where to put the brackets etc. Can somebody
email me or fax me some instructions with measurements?
thanks
Jim
Tampa
22 very wonderful hours.
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "MCS CALIBRATION, INC." <info@mcscal.com>
Steve,
I'm building a RV-9A on Long Island in Stony Brook, and a friend of mine is
building one in Setauket, we are both at about the same stage of
construction ie: engine is on working on the panel installation,
wiring etc. ( 90% done 90% to go :) ) We would be glad to show you our
projects e-mail me if you want at klwski1@pouch.com
Ken LaMar
N9015W
RV-9A
Finnishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Streiker, Stephen D (Steve), WHLSL" <streiker@att.com>
Subject: RV-List:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Streiker, Stephen D (Steve), WHLSL"
<streiker@att.com>
>
> Hi.
>
> I live in the New York metro area (Hoboken). I am interested in
eventually building an RV-9. I wonder if anyone knows of a NY metro area RV
builder. I'd be interested in helping out in exchange for experience. I
just joined EAA.
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve
>
> Stephen D. Streiker
> Global Account Manager - AT&T Service Provider Markets
> 32 Avenue of the Americas - W616 - New York, NY 10013
> Phone: 212-387-5355 Fax: 360-397-7362 Mobile: 917-865-9875
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Filtered Air Box for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Raymond Wallace <rawmailman@yahoo.com>
I have a Van's Aircraft FilteredAir Box, part # FAB-320 that I will not be using.
It is
complete and never assembled. I will sell it for $100 plus shipping or best offer.
Contact me at rawmailman@yahoo.com.
Ray Wallace
Building RV-4
---------------------------------
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
I would actually like to use small levers for these.
Position the levers where you wish, and the trim goes to that position.
(Could then make indication marks to some positions, or at least for takeoff
trim position).
Do not know how to implement this.
Robert
Dave von Linsowe wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Has anyone tried setting up the MAC elevator or aileron trim with a control
> pot instead of push buttons?
>
> Dave
> RV-6
> The need for speed ---->
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fw: Panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Fowler" <mark@fowlerssheetmetal.com>
Mark Fowler
mark@fowlerssheetmetal.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Fowler
Subject: Panel cutting
Ed,
We can do a simple modular panel or a full custom panel depending on your needs.
Please call with your specs for a quote.
Sincerely,
Mark Fowler
mark@fowlerssheetmetal.com
www.fowlerssheetmetal.com
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
Lever to position trim for take-off - You would probably need some
sort of closed loop feedback circuit, to compare the current position
against the commanded position, and move the trim as required to zero
out the difference. However this type of design would add several
failure modes that could lead to runaway trim, unless you designed a
complex system with two channels that both had to agree before the
trim moved.
Trim control through a control pot - well, if you can live with a
larger knob, why not go with the mechanical trim system? As far as I
am concerned, electric trim really only has an operational advantage
over mechanical trim if you put the electric trim switch on the
stick. If you have to take a hand off the throttle to trim anyway,
why not go with the simple, reliable mechanical trim?
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>--> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
>
>I would actually like to use small levers for these.
>Position the levers where you wish, and the trim goes to that position.
>(Could then make indication marks to some positions, or at least for takeoff
>trim position).
>Do not know how to implement this.
>Robert
>
>Dave von Linsowe wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
>>
>> Hi guys,
>>
>> Has anyone tried setting up the MAC elevator or aileron trim with a control
>> pot instead of push buttons?
>>
>> Dave
>> RV-6
> > The need for speed ---->
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Dave--
Eric Jones has done exactly that. See his post below from The
AeroElectric-List.
Boyd
RV-Super 6
Eric M. Jones" wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
> <emjones@charter.net>
>
> I mentioned before that I have a revision to the MAC8 servo where a simple
> voltage determines the position of the trim.
> This is a true "servo" system. The advantage is that the position of the
> input control determines the trim position.
>
> Maybe it is not the perfect "no-runaway-trim", or maybe it is. But I figure
> it is far safer than the standard system. It employs a potentiometer, which
> can be environmentally sealed, or any other method of setting a voltage
> (like a microprocessor or D-A converter.
>
> Contact me off-line and I will email you data. even if you don't want to do
> it, I will detail some areas of the MAC8 that can be improved.
>
> Bob, Did you ever test the stuff I sent???
>
> Eric M. Jones, struggling to get a website up.
Dave von Linsowe wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Has anyone tried setting up the MAC elevator or aileron trim with a control
> pot instead of push buttons?
>
> Dave
> RV-6
> The need for speed ---->
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>Guys,
>
>I posted this to the aeroelectric list to get 'lectric Bob's opinion but
>thought a survey of the RV-list might be worthwhile too. I assume
>everyone is grounding the strobe shielding at the power supply, but how
>about at the strobe heads? For those of you flying, did you ground the
>shielding at the strobe heads or not, and do you get any strobe noise
>with your setup?
>
>Thanks for any input...--Mark
>
Mark,
I grounded at the power supply end only. I get headset noise. In my years
of working with pulsed power systems, grounding both ends never worked, and
often would smoke components due to ground loops. So, now I'm totally
confused and wondering what to do next.
Bummer.
There ya have it. My two cents for the survey!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
I have the stick mounted push buttons for elevator and aileron trim now. I
find that when I'm fine trimming my hand isn't on the stick, just tapping
the buttons. Which can lead to unintentional stick inputs that hinder
trimming. Also having the elevator trim a little too sensitive doesn't help
matters. As for failure modes, I've had the down elevator trim button
stick, that gets your attention :-)
I haven't dove into the electronics of the trim system yet, but there
appears to be some type of position feedback to drive the trim indicator.
Another option might be digital trim similar to what's found on the high end
R/C transmitters. The trim "levers" have two positions depending on how
hard you push the "lever". The amount of travel can also be programmed for
each position, dual rate trim.
I was just wondering if someone had tried this so I wouldn't be reinventing
the wheel.
Dave
RV-6
The need for speed---->
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
> Lever to position trim for take-off - You would probably need some
> sort of closed loop feedback circuit, to compare the current position
> against the commanded position, and move the trim as required to zero
> out the difference. However this type of design would add several
> failure modes that could lead to runaway trim, unless you designed a
> complex system with two channels that both had to agree before the
> trim moved.
>
> Trim control through a control pot - well, if you can live with a
> larger knob, why not go with the mechanical trim system? As far as I
> am concerned, electric trim really only has an operational advantage
> over mechanical trim if you put the electric trim switch on the
> stick. If you have to take a hand off the throttle to trim anyway,
> why not go with the simple, reliable mechanical trim?
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Brian,
The noise pick-up in your audio wiring may be due to proximity of the strobe
wires close by. Pay particular attention to the DC supply leads to the
power-supply. The DC return line should not be grounded close to the audio
grounds There are high pulse currents there. All shields should be grounded
close to the power supply and I recommend grounding the DC return to the
airframe nearby also. I was able to mount my common power supply under the
seat skins and I grounded the shields to one seat rib and the DC return to
the opposite seat rib. No sign of any audio noise!
Cheers!! -----Henry Hore.
Message 12
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| Subject: | brake mounting flange |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I couldn't find an answer to this in the archives: On the -6 (I suppose
the other models are the same) does the Cleveland supplied brake
mounting bracket go inboard or outboard of the 403 mounting flange? It
seems that it could be made to work either way with the right size
spacers, but what is the correct way?
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit
Milwaukee WI
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wes" <whays@camalott.com>
Mark,
I grounded my strobes at the power supply end only. Seems like there was
some concern about a ground loop. I mounted the power supply under the floor
of the baggage compartment. Quiet as a mouse! No noise at all.
Wes Hays
RV-6A
N844WB
"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
Michael Collins (1987)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Countersinking the E-606 PP rear spar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jose del Peso <JDELPESO@teleline.es>
Hi,
When I built my first E-606 rear spar the inner diameter of the
countersunk holes
were enlarged to 9/64 inches to accept the dimpled E-601PP skin. I
thought that
these "big holes" could affect the integrity of my plane so I bought the
second spar.
I sent an e-mail to Vans support and they confirm that 9/64 inches is
definitely
too big.
Practicing now in scrap I think that I really need these "big holes"
(9/64 inner diameter).
Any idea? or I missunderstand something?.
Thanks
Jose del Peso
RV8
Madrid. Spain
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
For what it is worth... I grounded the shield in the wire at the power
supply, then connected the shields together where there were plugs, so that
the ground was continuous from the power supply all the way to the strobe.
I have no strobe noise.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Old Crow
Newport, OR
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: brake mounting flange |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
My dwg. 45 shows the Cleveland flange mounted outboard of the U-403, and
that's what I did. If you tried to mount it in-board, chances are the weld
bead of the U-403 flange to its tube would interfere.
Cheers!! Henry H.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
> > I grounded at the power supply end only. I get headset noise. In my
>years
> > of working with pulsed power systems, grounding both ends never worked,
>and
> > often would smoke components due to ground loops. So, now I'm totally
> > confused and wondering what to do next.
> >
> > Bummer.
> >
>
>Brian, maybe I did something you didn't and may be able to help. When I
>grounded stuff, I grounded everything at a single point on the firewall,
>except for the nav lights. I grounded the strobe shield to the ground wire
>at the power pack. The ground for the unit is back to that central point
>on
>the firewall. My mic and headset wires are shielded with all jacks having
>those washers that don't allow grounding at the jack. Mine are grounded at
>the radio. The radio is grounded at that single point on the firewall.
>With all of the extra wires used to ground everything back to that central
>point, and the extra shielded wiring, I think I may have prevented the
>problem for me. I hope that helps.
>
>Jim Sears in KY
My installation is (as far as I can remember!) the same as yours. There may
be some issue with where the actual wires and cables are run, which will
naturally be different from airplane to airplane. I also have the plastic
washers under both jacks for the headsets so they are not sharing airframe
ground. They are grounded at the intercom, which is grounded at the ground
bus, fed by a single cable from the negative battery terminal. DC power
return wire for the strobe pack is grounded at the bus, but not tied to the
airframe at the pack. The high voltage output cable shield wire IS grounded
at a mounting bolt for the pack.
Now, a large part of this issue may be due to whether or not the ground bus
is common to the airframe structure. My bus bar is bolted to the airframe,
so that any static charge picked up on the skins *should* go common with the
airplane's power bus ground. I've never gotten tickled by static charge
after boarding the aicraft and touching a switch or radio knob. It gets
mighty dry around here and static zaps can be a problem.
I may simply try unbonding the strobe cable shield from it's connection to
airframe ground and see what happens. Also, isolating the ground bus bar
from the airframe might have some effect. All circuits are grounded to it,
so everything should still work either way.
Thanks Jim, Henry, et al (who's Al?)
Brian "used to know 'lectroniks but now I'm not so sure" Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Countersinking the E-606 PP rear spar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I think the material for the spar is too thin to machine countersink.
It should be dimpled. I find that when dimpling thicker material, it
is useful to put the countersink bit (or the deburring bit) in the
dimpled hole and give it two or three turns, to "countersink" the dimple
ever so slightly, which will let the rivet sit better in the dimple.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit
Milwaukee WI
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Countersinking the E-606 PP rear spar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Jose,
I just helped anyother builder finish his 7b emp. We looked at the
countersinks of the doubler as kind of a learning experience for this new
builder. The countersinks definitely did not go all the way through the
doubler to make a 9/64 hole for the rivet to fill. Don't go too deep so as
to enlarge larger than the pilot of the countersink.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: Jose del Peso <JDELPESO@teleline.es>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Countersinking the E-606 PP rear spar
>Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 20:37:40 +0100
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jose del Peso <JDELPESO@teleline.es>
>
>Hi,
>When I built my first E-606 rear spar the inner diameter of the
>countersunk holes
>were enlarged to 9/64 inches to accept the dimpled E-601PP skin. I
>thought that
>these "big holes" could affect the integrity of my plane so I bought the
>second spar.
>I sent an e-mail to Vans support and they confirm that 9/64 inches is
>definitely
>too big.
>Practicing now in scrap I think that I really need these "big holes"
>(9/64 inner diameter).
>Any idea? or I missunderstand something?.
>Thanks
>
>Jose del Peso
>RV8
>Madrid. Spain
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Countersinking the E-606 PP rear spar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don R Jordan <dons6a@juno.com>
Jose:
Its been a while but, I would dimple the E606 rear spar for the 601 skin
to fit it. If it doesn't fit well, you could touch it up with a hand
deburr tool.
I don't counterskink until I get to .040 material.
Don Jordan - RV6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
********************************************************************
On Tue, 04 Feb 2003 20:37:40 +0100 Jose del Peso <JDELPESO@teleline.es>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jose del Peso <JDELPESO@teleline.es>
>
> Hi,
> When I built my first E-606 rear spar the inner diameter of the
> countersunk holes
> were enlarged to 9/64 inches to accept the dimpled E-601PP skin. I
> thought that
> these "big holes" could affect the integrity of my plane so I bought
> the
> second spar.
> I sent an e-mail to Vans support and they confirm that 9/64 inches
> is
> definitely
> too big.
> Practicing now in scrap I think that I really need these "big
> holes"
> (9/64 inner diameter).
> Any idea? or I missunderstand something?.
> Thanks
>
> Jose del Peso
> RV8
> Madrid. Spain
>
>
>
>
> ===============================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | RV Pilot Don Crum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
If you are on this list, please contact me directly for a shared interest (no luck
searching the archives). Thanks.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Chris & Susie:
If you pull the radio out of the tray and look on the bottom there should be
a paper sticker marked ST or Side Tone over a small hole. Remove the sticker
and looking in the hole there should be a adjustment. Not sure which way you
turn it but this should give you the volume you need. You may need to turn
it back and forth a bit if it is an older radio to get it going.
Hope I have the right info for this model. Let me know if it works.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr Christopher McGough" <vhmum@bigpond.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sidetone
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mr Christopher McGough"
<vhmum@bigpond.com>
>
> I have an Icom A200 with a Flightcom 403MC intercom.
>
> My problem is I have no side tone. Flightcom say it is the radio.
>
> Anyone now how to get it.
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
I have never seeing an rv.,with the tinted canopy
that Van's offer...
I ppersonally, would like this, but would like
to hear from any one that has installed or plan to do
so...I am sure the tint on Van's planes, would not
be as dark, if that is so., as Zenith aircrafts, altough
is nothing wrong with the looks...
Woul like to hear comments on this.
Bert
rv6a
Do not archive
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Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hello:
I am planning to install small speaker, for
receiving commnunication..
I think on long cross coutry trips, is nice not
to have a head set on....I do not care how expensive
it is, after a few hours, you feel it...
Sooo...Where is the best place to find, a small,
one, enclosed unit, ready to mount..
The ones I have seen, are a little biger than
I would like to, also, they come just bare, with no
box or enclosure...
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Bert
rv6a
Do not archive
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Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Just curious, is the rv8, with fiber glass at
the rear of the canopy??
The rv6a, has aluminum fairings at rear of
canopy...
The fron of course, is fiber glassed....
Why not metal covers in back, that will not
shrink as much, with temp. changes..
Bert
Rv6a
Dom not Archive
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Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Front Wheel Pant Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Hi Jim;
Hope Van's can help you with a new & better nose wheel fairing. My finish
kit arrived about 18 months ago with the new clear fiberglass main wheel
fairings but included an old style gelcoat nose wheel fairing as you seem to
have. Agree that it takes a bunch more work to get it to look nice.
You will probably be interested in Dwg C-1 dated 2/16/99. At least that's
what was supplied with my old style nose wheel fairing. Had a look today and
it doesn't have much in the way of dimensions. As I recall, I mounted the
four support brackets to the nosewheel fork and then drilled the fairing to
fit. You may want to order these as well. The part #s are U 813D-L and R
(the forward almost vertical bracket) and U 813C-L and R (the bracket that
goes lower on the wheel axle).
These are the P/Ns applicable to the old style fairing . I have not seen a
new one (at all) and this might use a different system and P/Ns to mount it.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RV-List: Front Wheel Pant Help
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@intermapsystems.com>
>
> All,
>
> I am quite unhappy with the quality of the front wheel pant on my 6A. It
was
> the old gelcoat style (circa 1996) and is not near the quality of the
newer
> style main leg pants (pressure recovery) that I have.
>
> Thus, I bought a new front leg pant (just the pant, not the gear leg
> fairing) from Vans.
>
> Here is what I need: I don't have any plans/measurements of where to cut
> this thing (I don't even have the old plans for the old one). I need to
> know where to cut the holes, where to put the brackets etc. Can somebody
> email me or fax me some instructions with measurements?
>
> thanks
> Jim
> Tampa
> 22 very wonderful hours.
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin speaker.. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Bert you are not going to like flying without a headset in an RV.
I know everyone has a favorite headset but mine are peltors. I forgot
about uncomfortable headsets when I switched to Peltors. Don't even
know I have them on.
Jerry
Bert Forero wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hello:
>
>
> I am planning to install small speaker, for
> receiving commnunication..
>
> I think on long cross coutry trips, is nice not
> to have a head set on....I do not care how expensive
> it is, after a few hours, you feel it...
>
> Sooo...Where is the best place to find, a small,
> one, enclosed unit, ready to mount..
>
> The ones I have seen, are a little biger than
> I would like to, also, they come just bare, with no
> box or enclosure...
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bert
> rv6a
>
>
> Do not archive
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding strobe shielding on RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Brian Denk wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>>>I grounded at the power supply end only. I get headset noise. In my
>>
>>years
>>
>>>of working with pulsed power systems, grounding both ends never worked,
>>
>>and
>>
>>>often would smoke components due to ground loops. So, now I'm totally
>>>confused and wondering what to do next.
>>>
>>>Bummer.
>>>
>>
>>Brian, maybe I did something you didn't and may be able to help. When I
>>grounded stuff, I grounded everything at a single point on the firewall,
>>except for the nav lights. I grounded the strobe shield to the ground wire
>>at the power pack. The ground for the unit is back to that central point
>>on
>>the firewall. My mic and headset wires are shielded with all jacks having
>>those washers that don't allow grounding at the jack. Mine are grounded at
>>the radio. The radio is grounded at that single point on the firewall.
>>With all of the extra wires used to ground everything back to that central
>>point, and the extra shielded wiring, I think I may have prevented the
>>problem for me. I hope that helps.
>>
>>Jim Sears in KY
>
>
>
> My installation is (as far as I can remember!) the same as yours. There may
> be some issue with where the actual wires and cables are run, which will
> naturally be different from airplane to airplane. I also have the plastic
> washers under both jacks for the headsets so they are not sharing airframe
> ground. They are grounded at the intercom, which is grounded at the ground
> bus, fed by a single cable from the negative battery terminal. DC power
> return wire for the strobe pack is grounded at the bus, but not tied to the
> airframe at the pack. The high voltage output cable shield wire IS grounded
> at a mounting bolt for the pack.
>
> Now, a large part of this issue may be due to whether or not the ground bus
> is common to the airframe structure. My bus bar is bolted to the airframe,
> so that any static charge picked up on the skins *should* go common with the
> airplane's power bus ground. I've never gotten tickled by static charge
> after boarding the aicraft and touching a switch or radio knob. It gets
> mighty dry around here and static zaps can be a problem.
>
> I may simply try unbonding the strobe cable shield from it's connection to
> airframe ground and see what happens. Also, isolating the ground bus bar
> from the airframe might have some effect. All circuits are grounded to it,
> so everything should still work either way.
>
> Thanks Jim, Henry, et al (who's Al?)
>
> Brian "used to know 'lectroniks but now I'm not so sure" Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
When all else fails go to Radio Shack and get a noise supprssor and
and connect it in line with the + wire to the com radio. This well stop
all strobe noise.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin speaker/noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
On 2/4 Bert wrote:
> I am planning to install small speaker, for
> receiving commnunication..
>
> I think on long cross coutry trips, is nice not
> to have a head set on....I do not care how expensive
> it is, after a few hours, you feel it...
I question whether or not a speaker would be effective in an RV with it's
relatively high ambient noise level.
I know a head set can be uncomfortable but, the noise level in an RV would
also become uncomfortable after a couple of hours. Noise fatigue is a real
factor and will degrade your concentration particularly at the end of a
multi-leg day. You also need to think about conserving your hearing. The
more you fly the more important this will be. Once your hearing is damaged
there is no way to recover it without a hearing aid.
We wore David Clarks in the C-130 for 8 hours at a time and were glad to
have them.
Ask me how I know. What did you say? I missed that...:)
Dick Sipp
RV4 250DS
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin speaker.. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Bert Forero wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hello:
>
> I am planning to install small speaker, for
> receiving commnunication..
>
> I think on long cross coutry trips, is nice not
> to have a head set on....I do not care how expensive
> it is, after a few hours, you feel it...
Bert, I don't think there is any way you could hear the sound from a
speaker in an RV at cruise. :-)
If you decide to chuck your headset for awhile, you better have some
earplugs to save your hearing because the cabin in an RV-6 is one of the
loudest you will experience in a small plane. Minimal, or no cabin
insulation, an unmuffled, open exhaust just below your feet, and nearly
200mph of wind noise just inches from your ears is probably more than
you will want to endure without hearing protection.
Sam Buchanan (1999 RV-6 Classic)
Message 31
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aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
| Subject: | Wiring harness heads up |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
I've just had a bad wiring harness experience that I want to share
with you, as it highlights a potential safety problem.
I bought my avionics from a popular avionics vendor, and I had him
make up the wiring harness. Well, this wiring harness has been a
nightmare. Two pins were swapped on the transponder, which meant the
transponder and altitude encode wouldn't talk to each other. I
swapped the pins and everything is OK there now. On the intercom,
the PTT and mic wires were swapped between the Com 1 and Com 2 spots.
If I had selected Com 1 to transmit, I would have been transmitting
on Com 2, but listening on Com 1. OK, I can fix that. I found it on
the bench when I decided to check every wire with an ohmmeter. It
would have been a royal PITA to find and fix if I hadn't found the
problem until I was doing post-installation functional checks.
Well tonight I found the problem that has stopped me in my tracks.
The Com 1 power line is supposed to get a 10a fuse, but the wire is
only 20 AWG. It needs to be 18 AWG if it is going to get a 10a fuse.
If I had simply followed the notes the vendor sent me, and I ever had
a short, I could have a smoking wire before the fuse blew. If I use
a 7a fuse to match the wire I could be looking at nuisance fuse
blowing.
So, please pay close attention to the details of any vendor supplied
wiring harness. Don't simply assume that it must be OK just because
it comes from a reputable vendor.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: interior paint woes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Nope, it's Zolatone cockpit paint. He put it on the entire fuselage
interior. Silver gray. I'm told it's on page 43 of the 2001 -2002 aircraft
spruce catalog. Part # 20-72. I couldn't find it in the 98-99 catalog.
Anyway, looked very nice and different at the time.
lucky
>From: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: interior paint woes
>Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 13:47:37 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>At 09:56 AM 2/3/2003, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Are you open to using a completely different paint type? I just saw the
> >nicest painted RV ever this past week. The interior QB fuselage was
>painted
> >with a type of textured looking gray paint which will wear extremely well
> >and you wouldn't notice if fur balls were mixed with the paint. Not too
> >rough to the touch and should not be "glary" in flight.
>
>
> "Trunk" paint. Great stuff. Comes out of the gun/can
>multi-colored! Be sure to clear coat over it. It does not wear well and
>gets dirty easily if you don't clear coat.
>
> _ /|
> \'o.O' Bill Dube'
> =(___)= bdube@boulder.nist.gov
> U
>
>
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
Hello,
Anyone out there live in the Bay Area of California??. My name is Ron and I live
in San Leandro.
I'm new to the RV list and to the concept of building my own plane. Am also considering
finding an RV-4 "project" near enough to completion that I'd feel comfortable
in trying to finish it up.
I would appreciate any leads you all may have for me, including a part-ownership.
Thanks,
Ron Patterson
Message 34
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| Subject: | Sams 1999 classic RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Sam Buchanan (1999 RV-6 Classic)
>
Van told me told me two weeks ago that my 1989 RV-6 was an antique.
That should make it worth more money right? :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re:Cabin speaker/noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
You should forget about a speaker in an RV ! There are good headsets which
don't fit like a vise .
I use a Hush-A-Com intercom and their headsets fit comfortably without giving
you a headache,yet they cut the noise. You will damage your hearing , and
there is a point where a hearing aid won't help .I am disability retired
because of shooting related hearing loss.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: tinted canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
>
> I have never seeing an rv.,with the tinted canopy
> that Van's offer...
> I ppersonally, would like this, but would like
> to hear from any one that has installed or plan to do
> so...I am sure the tint on Van's planes, would not
> be as dark, if that is so., as Zenith aircrafts, altough
> is nothing wrong with the looks...
>
>
My canopy is tinted. It is subtle and I don't notice it from the inside,
but it makes the airplane look a little nicer from the outside
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/P1090013.JPG. I can't remember if there was
an option for an untinted or not, when I ordered but I suspect most of them
are tinted. I just briefly looked at the Van's site and could not find that
there is an option now. Probably tinted is the standard.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 37
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| Subject: | Flying into Vegas |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv@pacbell.net>
Hi listers,
The wife and I are planning a weekend get-away trip to Las Vegas from here in NoCal.
(RV6 style) My plan is to fly into North L.V.(VGT). Is this a pretty-much
RV friendly airport? Safe to leave it out etc. Any suggestions would be much
appreciated.
Ken Cantrell
RV6 130 hrs
Message 38
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| Subject: | Paint woes...Dirt |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Painting small parts on paper covered surfaces causes dust in the paint as another
lister found out. It is caused by air from the spray gun being deflected
off the table top back into your work carrying with it overspray you are producing
as well as dust . The more you paint the worse it gets as you have more
overspray on the table top from prior coats. I have wood square frames covered
with hardware cloth and/or chicken wire to lay small parts on for painting.
The air and surplus paint will blow right through the screen spaces between the
parts so overspray does not accumulate near the parts being painted. The air
will tend to not "float" the part as it will over a solid surface and no overspray
dust will "blow back" into your fresh paint.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 Slide 0-320
Northfield, Mn
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