Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:04 AM - From the ground up (Al Grajek)
2. 05:11 AM - Baffle(d) (Rick Galati)
3. 05:35 AM - Re: Baffle(d) (Alex Peterson)
4. 06:31 AM - Re: Cabin speaker.. (john banks)
5. 06:40 AM - Re: From the ground up (Don Mack)
6. 07:00 AM - Re: From the ground up (sjhdcl@kingston.net)
7. 07:07 AM - Re: New Insurance Thread (terence.gannon@telus.net)
8. 08:15 AM - Re: Wiring harness follow up (Knicholas2@aol.com)
9. 08:22 AM - Re: Re:Cabin speaker/noise (Vanremog@aol.com)
10. 08:22 AM - oil cooler for sale posted on EBay (TColeE@aol.com)
11. 08:22 AM - Re: Facet Electric fuel pump ? (Vanremog@aol.com)
12. 08:24 AM - Re: Wiring harness follow up (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
13. 10:13 AM - Re: Facet Electric fuel pump ? (czechsix@juno.com)
14. 10:16 AM - Andair fuel selector inlet question (DvdBock@aol.com)
15. 11:58 AM - CarlingTech PWM Dimmer (long) (Stucklen, Frederic IFC)
16. 12:10 PM - Lycoming IO-360-M1B question (Laird Owens)
17. 12:51 PM - Re: Baffle(d) (Mr Christopher McGough)
18. 01:06 PM - Re: Lycoming IO-360-M1B question (Stanley Blanton)
19. 04:07 PM - Re: From the ground up (RV4)
20. 06:46 PM - Taildragger & that Insurance word again. (Dana Overall)
21. 07:01 PM - ifr requirements (Shemp)
22. 07:17 PM - Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. (Kyle Boatright)
23. 07:40 PM - Re: ifr requirements (KAKlewin@aol.com)
24. 08:07 PM - Torque Wrench Recommendations? (Evenson)
25. 08:53 PM - Re: ifr requirements (Sam Buchanan)
26. 09:22 PM - Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. (Dave Bristol)
27. 09:34 PM - Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. (Mr Christopher McGough)
28. 11:00 PM - Re: Facet Electric fuel pump ? (Gary)
Message 1
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vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | From the ground up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
Does anyone know where I could buy the series of videos "from the ground up"
that was shown on Discovery Wings.
Thanks
Al Grajek
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Installing the baffles on my 6A is proceeding easier than I
anticipated. But I do have a technical question. The
instructions call out trimming the front air inlet floors to within 1/2
inch or so to the inlet ducts molded on the lower cowl and attaching rubber
seals to the inlet ducts on the lower cowl to bridge this gap. At this
point, I have left more than enough excess aluminum so that the front air
inlet floors spade underneath the molded inlet ducts on the lower cowling. This
floating "lap joint", in my opinion renders a more attractive look, and provides
a much smoother transition from the inlet ducts to the engine.
This also eliminates fasteners installed on the ducts (to attach the
seals) yet still serves to isolate vibration and movement from the engine.
I have noticed no difficulty in removing and reinstalling the lower
cowl. Opinions?
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
The engine moves a lot more than you might think, use the rubber
sheeting.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 251 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> Installing the baffles on my 6A is proceeding easier than I
> anticipated. But I do have a technical question. The
> instructions call out trimming the front air inlet floors to
> within 1/2
> inch or so to the inlet ducts molded on the lower cowl and
> attaching rubber
> seals to the inlet ducts on the lower cowl to bridge this
> gap. At this
> point, I have left more than enough excess aluminum so that
> the front air
> inlet floors spade underneath the molded inlet ducts on the
> lower cowling. This
> floating "lap joint", in my opinion renders a more attractive
> look, and provides
> a much smoother transition from the inlet ducts to the engine.
> This also eliminates fasteners installed on the ducts (to attach the
> seals) yet still serves to isolate vibration and movement
> from the engine.
> I have noticed no difficulty in removing and reinstalling the lower
> cowl. Opinions?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin speaker.. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "john banks" <tinmanjj@ptd.net>
the only time you can hear the speaker is when the engine is not running and
that aint no fun
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cabin speaker..
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
>
> Bert,
>
> Many have said it but let me add another data point ...
>
> I was flying with a friend a few years ago in his RV. He was allowing me
to
> fly and just as we cleared some "Class Charlie" airspace and began a
climb,
> I hear "beep, beep, **NOISE!!!!*!!!
>
> There was some sor of failure in the elctrical system that had us on
battery
> and the battery did not hold up very long so we were without radio or
> intercom.
>
> No problem ... I am a belt and suspenders kinda guy so of course I had
> brought along my handheld radio.
>
> He takes the plane and I try to get on the radio to say we are returning.
> Here is the punch line...
>
> It was SO LOUD in the RV cabin that I had to turn the volume on the KX99
to
> MAX *and* hold it RIGHT NEXT TO MY EAR to hear anything over the "in the
55
> gallon drum being beaten unmercifully" sound of the RV cabin.
>
> I suggest that if you have not done so, go take a ride with someone and
try
> to listen to the a handheld radio without headsets.
>
> My RV partner has some brand of earplugs that are custom molded for her
ears
> and are a headset with microphone. I think she loves it. Just plugs into
her
> ears.
>
> I have found a VAST difference in the feel of different headsets. Maybe
> there is just that right brand out there that will work for you without
> giving you a clamping force headache. I eventually found some that worked
> for me.
>
> Your mileage may vary ...
> Just more food for thought ...
>
> James
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 9:35 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Cabin speaker..
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> >
> >
> > Bert Forero wrote:
> > >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> > >
> > > Hello:
> > >
> > > I am planning to install small speaker, for
> > > receiving commnunication..
> > >
> > > I think on long cross coutry trips, is nice not
> > > to have a head set on....I do not care how expensive
> > > it is, after a few hours, you feel it...
> >
> >
> > Bert, I don't think there is any way you could hear the sound from a
> > speaker in an RV at cruise. :-)
> >
> > If you decide to chuck your headset for awhile, you better have some
> > earplugs to save your hearing because the cabin in an RV-6 is one of the
> > loudest you will experience in a small plane. Minimal, or no cabin
> > insulation, an unmuffled, open exhaust just below your feet, and nearly
> > 200mph of wind noise just inches from your ears is probably more than
> > you will want to endure without hearing protection.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (1999 RV-6 Classic)
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | From the ground up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
You can get it from the builder's bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com/from_the_ground_up.htm
or
EAA
http://shop.eaa.org/html/2videos_ftgu.html?cart_id
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
Does anyone know where I could buy the series of videos "from the ground up"
that was shown on Discovery Wings.
Thanks
Al Grajek
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: From the ground up |
--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
Here's the link for the EAA site:
http://shop.eaa.org/html/2videos_ftgu.html?cart_id
Good videos. I wish airplane building was as easy as they make it out to be.
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
Quoting Al Grajek <algrajek@msn.com>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
>
>
> Does anyone know where I could buy the series of videos "from the ground up"
>
> that was shown on Discovery Wings.
> Thanks
> Al Grajek
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: New Insurance Thread |
--> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net
Glenn -- belated thanks for your comment. Looks like pretty much everybody
else on the list was fed up with insurance-related topics...yours was about
the only response! I wonder if, in the minds of the insurer, whether there is
a difference between digital pictures THEY take, vs. the digital pictures that
WE take. The lawyers were call it something like 'chain of custody' or some
such thing. Guess it's not something I have to spend a lot of cycles worrying
about, anyway. Thanx again...best regards...TCG
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring harness follow up |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
Just another perspective here....
I did not want to deal with the frustration of all the avionics wiring. I
got overwhelmed by the drawings and schematics. (I consider myself to be a
fairly intelligent guy, but I also recognise my frustration limits....)
I bought a system from Approach Systems (in Utah). They provide a passsive
"box" and pre-wired cables for all the avionics. All I had to do is plug one
ind into the box, the other end into the radio/intercom/transponder, etc, a
power wire to the bus and another to ground. Poof. Done. No muss, no fuss.
I liked it. Another beauty here is if I ever want to change radios. All I
do in unplug the old one, buy a new cable from AS to plug in and it's done.
1 hour.
Yes it cost more money, but the radios WORK and I still have my hair.
...just another guy's $.02
Kim Nicholas
RV9A FWF
Seatttle,
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re:Cabin speaker/noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/5/2003 5:05:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cjfortin@juno.com writes:
> I'm curious, does anyone have actual sound level measurements for their
> RVs. Having never flown in one all I can go by is the comments I see
> posted. I know what the levels are where I work and would like to make a
> comparison.
I did the measurement once before and it is in the archives. Search on "dBA"
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 590hrs)
Message 10
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| Subject: | oil cooler for sale posted on EBay |
--> RV-List message posted by: TColeE@aol.com
posted on EBay <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26439&item=2402270992&rd=1">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&
category=26439&item=2402270992&rd=1
might be a good deal for someone.
Terry E. Cole
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Facet Electric fuel pump ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/5/2003 6:17:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
BillRVSIX@aol.com writes:
> Hello dose any have any idea how many amps the Facet fuel pump from vans
> draws. Working on bus load analysis and need to figure out circuit breaker
> size.
1.02A
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 590hrs)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Wiring harness follow up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Sounds like very good customer service. I wouldn't feel bad about sharing
the company's name if I were you. A friend recently received a wiring
harness from a company for his Garmin super-whiz-bang moving map panel mount
thing-a-ma-jig. It had many crimps which I see as sub-standard.
Sub-standard in that you could see bare wire protruding from the crimped
pin. The pin is crimped in two places: one to make contact with the wire,
the other to bite down on the wire's insulation for strain relief. The
insulation was not crimped in most of his pins. I'm going to advise him to
send it back and I will advise you of the name of the company in either
situation. Good customer service should be rewarded, bad customer service
should be avoided.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorto1537@rogers.com]
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Wiring harness follow up
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
I reported yesterday about some problems I had with the vendor
supplied wiring harnesses that I purchased with my avionics. There
were several pairs of wires that were on the wrong pins, and one
power line was only 20 AWG even though it was supposed to get a 10a
fuse.
I received many e-mails, on and off the lists, so please understand
if I don't respond to each one individually.
Today I called the vendor to talk to him. He was very cooperative
and easy to deal with. He said that his employees are supposed to
"ohm out" each harness, but that something obviously went wrong with
my harness. He offered to take the harness back, personally fix all
the problems, and to give it a complete inspection - no charge.
Power line - I originally was concerned that I could be looking at a
possible smoke event if the 20 AWG power line ever shorted. However,
Bob Nuckolls responded that although a 10a fuse was a bit much for a
20 AWG wire, and the wire would get hotter than desired if it ever
shorted, it should not lead to a smoke event.
I discussed this issue with the vendor. He explained that the Garmin
specified 18 AWG wire requires an extra long pin to make room for a
larger crimp area. In his opinion, this long pin has a real risk of
later shorting out against other wires in the connector. He
discussed the issue with his local FAA folks, and convinced them to
allow him to use 20 AWG wire.
Note - this power line "Y's" to go to two pins, so it should be
possible to use 20 AWG wire from the pins to the Y, and 18 AWG wire
the rest of the way. I didn't think to bring this up with the vendor
while I had him on the phone, but I requested he do this in the
letter I sent with the harnesses.
Many people wanted me to name the vendor, as they seemed to want to
stay away from him. That was not the point of my messages. Even
with the issues I had with my wiring harness I am still glad I chose
the vendor I did. Any vendor can make a mistake. The important
thing is how they deal with the mistake.
My story was intended to advise that wiring harnesses should be
completely checked out on the bench before installing them in the
aircraft. Several of my problems would not have been noticed until I
was doing the functional checks after installation, and it would have
been very difficult to find and correct the problems with harness
embedded in the aircraft. Don't just assume that any vendor supplied
part is good without inspecting it.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Facet Electric fuel pump ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Bill, I asked this question to Craig Weber, Facet's engineering rep, a while back
and the answer for the pump Vans sells (model # 40108) is 1.4 amps. I went
with the "beer can" style pump instead on my RV, not because it draws less current
(1 A) but because I like the inlet filter screen and it also fit in the
wingroot where I wanted to mount it.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D firewall forward....
------------------------------------------------------
Mark,
The 478360 draws 1 amp max. The 40108 draws 1.4 amps max.
Regards
Craig
> ----------
> From:
> menavrat@rockwellcollins.com[SMTP:menavrat@rockwellcollins.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 1:40 PM
> To: Weber, Craig
> Subject: RE: Interrupter Fuel Pump Question
>
>
> Hi Craig,
>
> Can you tell me the max current or power requirements for the 478360
> interrupter fuel pump (@12 VDC)?
> Also for comparison sake, what is the power req'ts for the solid state
> 40108 pump (also 12 VDC)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
Time: 06:15:38 PM PST US
From: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Facet Electric fuel pump ?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello dose any have any idea how many amps the Facet fuel pump from vans
draws. Working on bus load analysis and need to figure out circuit breaker
size. Thanks
Bill Higgins
Pembroke Ma.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Andair fuel selector inlet question |
--> RV-List message posted by: DvdBock@aol.com
Fellow listers (w/Andair Selectors):
I have an Andair FS20X3 fuel selector and wish to move the top (12=A0 o'clock,
right tank ) Inlet to the right (3 o'clock) position. Can I do this and
receive flow? Has anyone done this?
Is this other position a usable, alternate? Does the ball valve have three
side openings?
I have queried the Andair people, but they are not responding.
Dave Bockelman
Message 15
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| Subject: | CarlingTech PWM Dimmer (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Listers,
Yesterday I received an electronic dimmer from Carling Technologies that
was previously talked about on the Aeroelectric List. (see
http://www.carlingtech.com/products/switches/ld_series.asp ). This is a
digital PWM circuit that is capable of 10A of current, with an output that
is adjustable from 0-100% duty cycle. (i.e., full OFF to full ON. 50% duty
cycle would essentially be a square wave..). It has a three wire interface:
+12VDC, Output, and Ground, with 1/4" fast-on tabs, so it's real simple to
hook up. In my case, the dimmer power and all lights are brought to a
terminal strip, so running a twisted pair of #18 wire to the dimmer, and
another #18 wire from the dimmer to the avionics common ground, only took a
few minutes to complete. (I did not mount it into the panel yet..) The part
I evaluated is a LD3A1CC1-3AAFE-1FC. (12v, 10A, 11 step, Red led labeling,
black case, rocker switch, "Bright/DIM" labeling. See the Carling web site
for other versions).
When I first heard of this device, my main concern centered about the
interference it might cause to the IFR panel I'm installing in my new RV-6A.
In a previous IFR RV-6A, I had designed and installed a PWM style dimmer,
and had to take special care to avoid EMI that would negate it's usefulness
in an avionics panel. Among other design issues, I found that by using
relatively low switching frequencies, controlling the rising and falling
edges of the switching waveform, using proper bypass and grounding
techniques, and using twisted pairs for power leads, the EMI was issues
were eliminated.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that these issues have been properly
addressed in the Carling LD-Series dimmer circuit. Even with the dimmer next
to the antenna of a COMM radio, I was not able to detect any significant EMI
on either the COMM or VOR/ILS frequency ranges. I was also not able to
detect any perceptible additional noise in an adjacent AM radio over the
entire AM band, so it shouldn't effect ADF's. With the dimmer near it's
intended mounting location, I couldn't detect any interference on any of the
radios. (see
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com.01.19.200
3/ for an earlier picture of my panel..) Any noise I was able to detect, at
any test condition, was only with the radio squelch open and the audio
turned up. Even this was barely perceptible. While this test was done in the
shop, and not out in the quiet electrical domain of an open field, I'm
relatively confident that the device will not cause any electrical
interference to the avionics.
Putting an oscilloscope on the dimmers output revealed a 200 Hz PWM
waveform with smooth rise/fall time transitions and no spikes or overshoots
when driving a load of standard incandescent bulbs and some LED's (i.e., no
additional inductive loads...). Switch turn off times were about 60 uSec (0V
- 12 Vdc) with a max Dv/Dt of 9V/50 uSec. Switch turn on times were a bit
faster at 20 uSec (12 Vdc - 0V) with a max Dv/Dt of -9V/15uSec. The PWM duty
cycle was adjustable from 0-100% in .5mS steps. With a 5 mS period for the
frequency, that results in 11 steps over the full range of control
(including OFF). For some, this might not be fine enough control. But
turning out the lights in the shop, and playing around with the dimmer while
sitting in the cockpit, convinced me that it should do the job for me.
According to Carling Technologies, the dimmer retail cost is about $35.00.
I'm trying to get a quote from a local distributor for cost and delivery
times......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV (Reserved)
Message 16
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SoCAL-RVlist <SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Lycoming IO-360-M1B question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
OK, so I'm looking thru the new Sport Aviation mag, and see an ad by
Lycoming about a new engine(?), the IO-360-M1B
180 hp, injected.
Is this just an O-360 with an foward facing injector/sump? Close to
the same weight as an 0-360, ie, not the heavy crank IO-360?
Hmmmmmm.....just wondering for a friend who is building an RV-7.
I've been recommending an O-360/CS like I have in my RV-6. But if
it's injected and the same weight, It might be the right motor for
him. I'm steering him away from the heavy IO-360 due to the extra
weight of the counterbalanced crank.
I also see Van's has this engine listed in the catalog (for an
additional $5K over the A1A).
I didn't see anything on the Lycoming website. Anybody know the scoop?
Laird RV-6
SoCal
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mr Christopher McGough" <vhmum@bigpond.com>
We trimmed ours bcause of engine vibration and when you start up the engine
moves a bit. Thats why you need a gap.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Baffle(d)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Installing the baffles on my 6A is proceeding easier than I
> anticipated. But I do have a technical question. The
> instructions call out trimming the front air inlet floors to within 1/2
> inch or so to the inlet ducts molded on the lower cowl and attaching
rubber
> seals to the inlet ducts on the lower cowl to bridge this gap. At this
> point, I have left more than enough excess aluminum so that the front air
> inlet floors spade underneath the molded inlet ducts on the lower cowling.
This
> floating "lap joint", in my opinion renders a more attractive look, and
provides
> a much smoother transition from the inlet ducts to the engine.
> This also eliminates fasteners installed on the ducts (to attach the
> seals) yet still serves to isolate vibration and movement from the
engine.
> I have noticed no difficulty in removing and reinstalling the lower
> cowl. Opinions?
>
> --- Rick Galati
>
> --- rick07x@earthlink.net
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Lycoming IO-360-M1B question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stanley Blanton" <stanb@door.net>
snip
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
OK, so I'm looking thru the new Sport Aviation mag, and see an ad by
Lycoming about a new engine(?), the IO-360-M1B
180 hp, injected.
Snip
I didn't see anything on the Lycoming website. Anybody know the scoop?
Laird RV-6
SoCal
The two significant differences between the O-360=A1A & the IO-360-M1B are:
O-360-A1A uses the updraft carburetor with the intake pipes going through
the sump just like an O-320.
IO-360-M1B uses the sump from a 200hp angle valve IO-360 with custom intake
tubes to mate with the parallel valve 180hp heads.
When figuring the price of the -M1B Lycoming adds the cost of the angle
valve sump , approx. $1500, and adds the cost of the custom intake pipes at,
get this, approx. $950 each. The engine is still rated at 180hp but some
would maintain that it puts out quite a bit more with the tuned intake pipes
and sump similar to what the 200hp motor has.
You could make your own version of this engine by bolting a 200hp sump on a
parallel valve motor and modifying the intake pipes as necessary.
Stan Blanton
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: From the ground up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ@btinternet.com>
Hi Al,
the buikders book store.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: From the ground up
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
>
>
> Does anyone know where I could buy the series of videos "from the ground
up"
> that was shown on Discovery Wings.
> Thanks
> Al Grajek
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Taildragger & that Insurance word again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
This isn't a question of whether my RV will be insurable, since I have used
an electric drill to do my countersinks, but whether I am insurable.
I've got to send Van's some money for my fuselage any time now. Here's one
of the factors. I am a mid time, IFR rated, high performance and complex
endorsed pilot with no taildragger time to speak of. What is the real world
insurance difference between the two placements of that single wheel.
The taildragger red S on my chest is of no concern, as before I became a CPA
I was a cop and they branded that S on upon graduation. The scarf hanging
up in the rear stick isn't a factor with my side by side. Let
talk............yuck......INSURANCE.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv7-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
>Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:39:33 -0800
>
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>It would be remiss not to consider the ACS2002.
>http://www.advanced-control-systems.com
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <RV8ter@AOL.com>
>To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
>
>
> > --> RV7-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
> >
> > What's a IK-2000 and where's a web site for it?
> >
> > In a message dated 2/6/2003 6:40:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com writes:
> >
> > >
> > > --> RV7-List message posted by: "Jim Norman"
><jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
> > >
> > > All,
> > > I've said this before, but it may be helpful to those who are new.
> > >
> > > The Vision Microsystem is a great unit. HOWEVER, in my opinion, the
> > > IK-2000
> > > is significantly BETTER, and $2000 less!
> > >
> > > You need to see this unit work to believe it. It does a LOT more than
>the
> > > VM-1000 too.
> > >
> > > jim
> > > Tampa
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | ifr requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Im ready to purchase my radios and am more confused than ever. I want to be able
to file ifr and punch thru decks when I the need arises. I also would like
to have a loc/gs but dont know about the need for having a certified gps non
prec radio. Does the faa certify us for flying in IMC? Help
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I'm insured through SkySmith. In my last conversation with them, they
(actually Scott Smith) indicated that there is a 25% or so premium for
putting the little wheel in back. Right now, my rate is ~$1,500/yr, with
500+ PIC hours, 180+ TW hours, and 170 or so hours in the RV-6.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Taildragger & that Insurance word again.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> This isn't a question of whether my RV will be insurable, since I have
used
> an electric drill to do my countersinks, but whether I am insurable.
>
> I've got to send Van's some money for my fuselage any time now. Here's
one
> of the factors. I am a mid time, IFR rated, high performance and complex
> endorsed pilot with no taildragger time to speak of. What is the real
world
> insurance difference between the two placements of that single wheel.
>
> The taildragger red S on my chest is of no concern, as before I became a
CPA
> I was a cop and they branded that S on upon graduation. The scarf hanging
> up in the rear stick isn't a factor with my side by side. Let
> talk............yuck......INSURANCE.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
> >From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >Reply-To: rv7-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
> >Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:39:33 -0800
> >
> >--> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> >It would be remiss not to consider the ACS2002.
> >http://www.advanced-control-systems.com
> >
> >)_( Dan
> >RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
> >http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <RV8ter@AOL.com>
> >To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
> >
> >
> > > --> RV7-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
> > >
> > > What's a IK-2000 and where's a web site for it?
> > >
> > > In a message dated 2/6/2003 6:40:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > > jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com writes:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > --> RV7-List message posted by: "Jim Norman"
> ><jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
> > > >
> > > > All,
> > > > I've said this before, but it may be helpful to those who are new.
> > > >
> > > > The Vision Microsystem is a great unit. HOWEVER, in my opinion, the
> > > > IK-2000
> > > > is significantly BETTER, and $2000 less!
> > > >
> > > > You need to see this unit work to believe it. It does a LOT more
than
> >the
> > > > VM-1000 too.
> > > >
> > > > jim
> > > > Tampa
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: ifr requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin@aol.com
Jeff,
Everything that you need to have in your aircraft to fly IFR is listed in
Part 91 of your FAR. I assume that if you comply with this section when the
FAA certifies your plane you will get an VFR and IFR certification if in his
eyes it meets the certification requirements of part 91. As far as the GPS
it only needs to be IFR certified if you want to file /G and fly using it as
a primary source for nav information. The reg basically says you need the
navigation equipment for the ground/nav facilities to be used...hence you
could have one VOR...or one ADF...etc....glideslope isn't required...but of
course you cant do ILS approaches....GPS can be enroute, terminal, and
approach certified (I think that is how its broken down) depending on how
much money you want to spend. Most IFR gps installs need a CDI installation
also (either to a CDI that can switch between VOR and GPS or a dedicated
CDI). A VFR gps is a great backup though...even though legally it can't be
used for IFR. Can anyone else clarify? Hope it helps....
Kurt in OKC.....sanding fiberglass....uggggg.....
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Torque Wrench Recommendations? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Evenson <revenson@comcast.net>
Any recommendations on brand or type of torque wrenches for RV builders?
I see where Van recommends inch/lb. type, and the list provided in the book says
to expect a range of 20-1500 in. lb. settings in RVs. I think I understand
that one wrench will not cover the entire range.
I was considering one in the 30-200 inch/lb. range, but then I noticed the first
bolt to tighten is a #10, with a torque recommendation of 20-25 inch lbs, so
I'm wondering if most of the bolts in the RV will be at the lower or higher end
of that range. Any comments?
Also there seems to be a huge range of prices--I've seen wrenches from $69 to $240.
Would appreciate your comments based on experience in building RVs. Thanks.
Roger.
RV9A, Empennage half-done.
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: ifr requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Here is the way the EAA sees this subject (link is from the Blue Mtn
Aviation site):
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/efisone/IFR%20equipment.pdf
Sam Buchanan
=====================
KAKlewin@aol.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin@aol.com
>
> Jeff,
>
> Everything that you need to have in your aircraft to fly IFR is listed in
> Part 91 of your FAR. I assume that if you comply with this section when the
> FAA certifies your plane you will get an VFR and IFR certification if in his
> eyes it meets the certification requirements of part 91. As far as the GPS
> it only needs to be IFR certified if you want to file /G and fly using it as
> a primary source for nav information. The reg basically says you need the
> navigation equipment for the ground/nav facilities to be used...hence you
> could have one VOR...or one ADF...etc....glideslope isn't required...but of
> course you cant do ILS approaches....GPS can be enroute, terminal, and
> approach certified (I think that is how its broken down) depending on how
> much money you want to spend. Most IFR gps installs need a CDI installation
> also (either to a CDI that can switch between VOR and GPS or a dedicated
> CDI). A VFR gps is a great backup though...even though legally it can't be
> used for IFR. Can anyone else clarify? Hope it helps....
>
> Kurt in OKC.....sanding fiberglass....uggggg.....
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Dana,
You'll pay more until you have enough conventional gear time to make the
insurance company happy. Of course if you already had the big red S, the cost
would be about the same as with the training wheel. but I think the real problem
is that since you didn't use "WING JIGS" they might consider the airframe
un-airworthy.
Also, I find that the cape keeps getting sucked out under the canopy sides! :
-)
Dave RV6, So Cal
do not archive
Dana Overall wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> This isn't a question of whether my RV will be insurable, since I have used
> an electric drill to do my countersinks, but whether I am insurable.
>
> I've got to send Van's some money for my fuselage any time now. Here's one
> of the factors. I am a mid time, IFR rated, high performance and complex
> endorsed pilot with no taildragger time to speak of. What is the real world
> insurance difference between the two placements of that single wheel.
>
> The taildragger red S on my chest is of no concern, as before I became a CPA
> I was a cop and they branded that S on upon graduation. The scarf hanging
> up in the rear stick isn't a factor with my side by side. Let
> talk............yuck......INSURANCE.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
> >From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >Reply-To: rv7-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
> >Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:39:33 -0800
> >
> >--> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> >It would be remiss not to consider the ACS2002.
> >http://www.advanced-control-systems.com
> >
> >)_( Dan
> >RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
> >http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <RV8ter@AOL.com>
> >To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
> >
> >
> > > --> RV7-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
> > >
> > > What's a IK-2000 and where's a web site for it?
> > >
> > > In a message dated 2/6/2003 6:40:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > > jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com writes:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > --> RV7-List message posted by: "Jim Norman"
> ><jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
> > > >
> > > > All,
> > > > I've said this before, but it may be helpful to those who are new.
> > > >
> > > > The Vision Microsystem is a great unit. HOWEVER, in my opinion, the
> > > > IK-2000
> > > > is significantly BETTER, and $2000 less!
> > > >
> > > > You need to see this unit work to believe it. It does a LOT more than
> >the
> > > > VM-1000 too.
> > > >
> > > > jim
> > > > Tampa
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mr Christopher McGough" <vhmum@bigpond.com>
Try $6000 for hull and 3rd party....Thats for $120000AUS Hull and 1 Mill 3rd
Party...Needless to say we take the risk.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Taildragger & that Insurance word again.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
> I'm insured through SkySmith. In my last conversation with them, they
> (actually Scott Smith) indicated that there is a 25% or so premium for
> putting the little wheel in back. Right now, my rate is ~$1,500/yr, with
> 500+ PIC hours, 180+ TW hours, and 170 or so hours in the RV-6.
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Taildragger & that Insurance word again.
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >
> > This isn't a question of whether my RV will be insurable, since I have
> used
> > an electric drill to do my countersinks, but whether I am insurable.
> >
> > I've got to send Van's some money for my fuselage any time now. Here's
> one
> > of the factors. I am a mid time, IFR rated, high performance and
complex
> > endorsed pilot with no taildragger time to speak of. What is the real
> world
> > insurance difference between the two placements of that single wheel.
> >
> > The taildragger red S on my chest is of no concern, as before I became a
> CPA
> > I was a cop and they branded that S on upon graduation. The scarf
hanging
> > up in the rear stick isn't a factor with my side by side. Let
> > talk............yuck......INSURANCE.
> >
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY
> > http://rvflying.tripod.com
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > >From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv7-list@matronics.com
> > >To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
> > >Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:39:33 -0800
> > >
> > >--> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> > >
> > >It would be remiss not to consider the ACS2002.
> > >http://www.advanced-control-systems.com
> > >
> > >)_( Dan
> > >RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
> > >http://www.rvproject.com
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: <RV8ter@AOL.com>
> > >To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV7-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
> > > >
> > > > What's a IK-2000 and where's a web site for it?
> > > >
> > > > In a message dated 2/6/2003 6:40:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > > > jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com writes:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --> RV7-List message posted by: "Jim Norman"
> > ><jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > All,
> > > > > I've said this before, but it may be helpful to those who are new.
> > > > >
> > > > > The Vision Microsystem is a great unit. HOWEVER, in my opinion,
the
> > > > > IK-2000
> > > > > is significantly BETTER, and $2000 less!
> > > > >
> > > > > You need to see this unit work to believe it. It does a LOT more
> than
> > >the
> > > > > VM-1000 too.
> > > > >
> > > > > jim
> > > > > Tampa
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Facet Electric fuel pump ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
I measured the current draw on my Facet pump at about 1.3 amps.......but that is
dry. It may well draw much more when actually pumping fuel.
I used a 5 amp circuit for the pump and a primer solenoid valve (about .7 amps).
Not flying yet, so we'll see.
Gary
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