Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:25 AM - Re: Torque Wrench Recommendations? (Larry Pardue)
2. 02:40 AM - XP-360 price increase (Jeff Point)
3. 04:35 AM - Re: ifr requirements (Dana Overall)
4. 06:59 AM - Orlando trip (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
5. 07:14 AM - Re: ifr requirements (RV_8 Pilot)
6. 07:55 AM - >Re: Taildragger and that Insurance word again (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
7. 08:19 AM - Cowling issues.... (Knicholas2@aol.com)
8. 08:20 AM - Re: XP-360 price increase (Dave Bristol)
9. 08:21 AM - Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. (Bill Dube)
10. 08:33 AM - Help in Florida? (firstname lastname)
11. 08:46 AM - Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. (John Helms)
12. 08:47 AM - Re: Wiring harness follow up (David Aronson)
13. 09:11 AM - Re: XP-360 price increase (Rob Prior)
14. 09:25 AM - Re: Help in Florida? (terence.gannon@telus.net)
15. 10:28 AM - Re:IFR Equipment requirements (John Allen)
16. 10:35 AM - Re: Cowling issues.... (HCRV6@aol.com)
17. 10:54 AM - Another Cowling Question (HCRV6@aol.com)
18. 10:59 AM - Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. (Dana Overall)
19. 11:11 AM - Re: XP-360 price increase (glenn williams)
20. 11:15 AM - Re: Another Cowling Question (Don Mack)
21. 11:44 AM - Fw: Gretz elevator trim (Jim Lane)
22. 11:54 AM - Re: Another Cowling Question (Elsa & Henry)
23. 12:18 PM - Re: Another Cowling Question (Don Mack)
24. 12:27 PM - Re:Orlando trip (Bert Forero)
25. 12:39 PM - Re:Tinted canopy (Bert Forero)
26. 12:45 PM - Re: Another Cowling Question (Elsa & Henry)
27. 12:49 PM - Re: Help in Florida? (Jim Streit)
28. 01:02 PM - Re: tinted canopy (Lenleg@aol.com)
29. 01:30 PM - Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard (Joshua Siler)
30. 01:44 PM - Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard (terence.gannon@telus.net)
31. 01:45 PM - Re: Fw: Gretz elevator trim (Ralph E. Capen)
32. 01:49 PM - Re: Help in Florida? (David Burton)
33. 02:58 PM - Re: Torque Wrench Recommendations? (Curt Hoffman)
34. 03:02 PM - Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard (Curt Hoffman)
35. 04:14 PM - Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard (Charles Rowbotham)
36. 04:23 PM - Torque wrench tips (was: Torque Wrench Recommendations) (Bill Dube)
37. 04:42 PM - Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard (N8292W@aol.com)
38. 04:45 PM - Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard (Joshua Siler)
39. 05:41 PM - Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard (Sam Buchanan)
40. 05:48 PM - I want to build a RV for someone (N8292W@aol.com)
41. 06:21 PM - Re: Orlando trip (William Davis)
42. 08:09 PM - from the EAA news wire re insurance (Sam Buchanan)
43. 09:19 PM - Re: Rudder trim (David Carter)
44. 11:29 PM - Re: XP-360 price increase (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench Recommendations? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Evenson <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> Any recommendations on brand or type of torque wrenches for RV builders?
>
> I see where Van recommends inch/lb. type, and the list provided in the
book says to expect a range of 20-1500 in. lb. settings in RVs. I think I
understand that one wrench will not cover the entire range.
>
> I was considering one in the 30-200 inch/lb. range, but then I noticed the
first bolt to tighten is a #10, with a torque recommendation of 20-25 inch
lbs, so I'm wondering if most of the bolts in the RV will be at the lower or
higher end of that range. Any comments?
>
Roger,
Just going by memory, the vast majority of the bolts in RV's are 3/16. One
torque wrench is not really adequate. You need a small one mostly and a big
one for the few larger bolts as well as the very few really big ones like
engine mounts and propeller bolts.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 2
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| Subject: | XP-360 price increase |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Ouch! Did anyone else notice that Superior raised the price of the
XP-360 two grand last week? They had lowered them last fall to $19,990
for the carb model, and now both Superior and Aerosport Power web sites
are listing them at $21,990. I confirmed this with Aerosport. I was
going to pull the trigger on this next week. Maybe they still have a
few of the cheaper ones left laying around?
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish
Milwaukee WI
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: ifr requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
It's interesting to read the pdf from Blue Mountain that Sam posted. While
they do make an argument for non TSO'd, non TSO GPS, equipment, sometimes I
think he draws the conclusions he wants. In addition to the regular stuff,
ie., clock, altimeter, ROT indicator, generator, AI and so on, you don't
need a transponder. Course you can't fly above 10K without one and you must
request a waiver in some controlled airspace. The GPS thing from Blue
Mountain makes be think. We have approach certified, moving map GPS/COM in
the Bonanza. You must have a nav head coupled to the GPS for enroute,
terminal or approach. If you just want to go GPS enroute, I don't think you
need the aunnunciator panel. The key statement is the "two-way radio
communications system and nav. equipment appropriate to the ground
facilities to be used". Your VOR must be within parameters, either inflight
or on ground testing. You test and document this. Your altimeter and
altitude reporting (if installed) transponder must be certified every two
years and that's about it.
Short answer to a long tirade, other than the listed equipment put in a VOR
and a two way radio and you can legally ask for a clearance. You will just
be very limited in the approaches you can shoot. That may not be problem
unless the minimum vectoring altitudes in your letdown area precludes the
controller from authorizing you to drop below the cloud deck unless you are
established on a published approach. You can use non IFR certified (you
will be certifying much of your equipment) equipment......hand held GPS, for
situational awareness only. In the real world, use that handheld to remain
situationally aware where an intersection is and be able to prove you cross
checked it with certified on board equipment.
No homebuilt will be able to be non provisionally issued an IFR stamp until
flown. Even when we had our Bonanza approach GPS install, I still had to
take the installer up and lock on the autopilot inroute and shoot an
approach on our return. Remember, the sensitivity of the GPS is different
for enroute as opposed to terminal and approach. We found the 300XL
approach certified GPS/COM to be very reasonable as the COM works very
nicely. Go this route and you can legally file direct. That's the route
I'm going, kill two birds with one stone.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ifr requirements
>Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 22:53:27 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>Here is the way the EAA sees this subject (link is from the Blue Mtn
>Aviation site):
>
>http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/efisone/IFR%20equipment.pdf
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>=====================
>
>KAKlewin@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin@aol.com
> >
> > Jeff,
> >
> > Everything that you need to have in your aircraft to fly IFR is
>listed in
> > Part 91 of your FAR. I assume that if you comply with this section when
>the
> > FAA certifies your plane you will get an VFR and IFR certification if in
>his
> > eyes it meets the certification requirements of part 91. As far as the
>GPS
> > it only needs to be IFR certified if you want to file /G and fly using
>it as
> > a primary source for nav information. The reg basically says you need
>the
> > navigation equipment for the ground/nav facilities to be used...hence
>you
> > could have one VOR...or one ADF...etc....glideslope isn't required...but
>of
> > course you cant do ILS approaches....GPS can be enroute, terminal, and
> > approach certified (I think that is how its broken down) depending on
>how
> > much money you want to spend. Most IFR gps installs need a CDI
>installation
> > also (either to a CDI that can switch between VOR and GPS or a dedicated
> > CDI). A VFR gps is a great backup though...even though legally it
>can't be
> > used for IFR. Can anyone else clarify? Hope it helps....
> >
> > Kurt in OKC.....sanding fiberglass....uggggg.....
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
I will be flying the recently completed RV8A to Orlando next week and would
like recommendations for RV "friendly" airports for overnight stays.
Wayne Petrus
West Monroe, LA
RV8A
318-366-5509
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ifr requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>Short answer to a long tirade, other than the listed equipment put in a VOR
>and a two way radio and you can legally ask for a clearance.
If you want to take it to extremes, the absolute minimum is a 2-way radio.
May not be very practical, but you can fly IFR by radar vectors. A couple
of us did it giving dual instruction after 9/11/01 coming and going from Cl
B airspace.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: >Re: Taildragger and that Insurance word again |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Why don't you call direct to the EAA affiliate , Falcon Insurance , and get
an accurate answer ; rather than gossip.
There are others too , such as J.T Helms at Nation-Air , with the Vanguard
Program.
With such an investment , you should have direct answers.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Cowling issues.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
I am disappointed in the fit of the top -to bottom fiberglass cowling on my
RV9A. I can see that I need to to alot of trimming and sanding to get the
front of the cowling pieces to fit together even closely, let alone look
good. Has anyone else had this problem or did I just get a lousy fiberglass
job? Any suggestions?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A fiberglass....
Seattle
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: XP-360 price increase |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Jeff,
Interesting....
An article in the new Sport Aviation (Feb) on page 114 states that the price
has just been reduced to $19,900 from $23,000.
Also interesting is the fact that if you don't have the latest 20 gig
browser you can't even look at their website! But, that's their loss, not
mine.
Dave
do not archive
Jeff Point wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> Ouch! Did anyone else notice that Superior raised the price of the
> XP-360 two grand last week? They had lowered them last fall to $19,990
> for the carb model, and now both Superior and Aerosport Power web sites
> are listing them at $21,990. I confirmed this with Aerosport. I was
> going to pull the trigger on this next week. Maybe they still have a
> few of the cheaper ones left laying around?
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 finish
> Milwaukee WI
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 10:31 PM 2/5/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mr Christopher McGough" <vhmum@bigpond.com>
>
>Try $6000 for hull and 3rd party....Thats for $120000AUS Hull and 1 Mill 3rd
>Party...Needless to say we take the risk.
Is it only hull insurance that goes up, or does liability also
increase?
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <billdube@KillaCycle.com>
=(___) U Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Help in Florida? |
--> RV-List message posted by: firstname lastname <toys@ufl.edu>
I'm a long time lurker who is now able to start back to work on my project
after a 1+ year hiatus. I'm ready to rivit the main wing skins, and am looking
for someone in my area who could be bribed into helping me. My girlfriend
appears to be untrainable. I'm in Gainesville, FL. Would also like to meet some
local RV builders/flyers.
Thanks,
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
RV6A Wings/Fuse
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
Tailwheel RV's are about 10% more expensive to insure than tricycle gear
RV's thru the VanGuard Program. This holds fairly true with other insurers
of RV's as well.
You would need either a TW checkout or to be "grandfathered" in by the FAA
for those of you who have been flying them for years (in addition to an RV
checkout) for the VanGuard program.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Taildragger & that Insurance word again.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
This isn't a question of whether my RV will be insurable, since I have used
an electric drill to do my countersinks, but whether I am insurable.
I've got to send Van's some money for my fuselage any time now. Here's one
of the factors. I am a mid time, IFR rated, high performance and complex
endorsed pilot with no taildragger time to speak of. What is the real world
insurance difference between the two placements of that single wheel.
The taildragger red S on my chest is of no concern, as before I became a CPA
I was a cop and they branded that S on upon graduation. The scarf hanging
up in the rear stick isn't a factor with my side by side. Let
talk............yuck......INSURANCE.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv7-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
>Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:39:33 -0800
>
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>It would be remiss not to consider the ACS2002.
>http://www.advanced-control-systems.com
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <RV8ter@AOL.com>
>To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: Engine gauges
>
>
> > --> RV7-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
> >
> > What's a IK-2000 and where's a web site for it?
> >
> > In a message dated 2/6/2003 6:40:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com writes:
> >
> > >
> > > --> RV7-List message posted by: "Jim Norman"
><jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
> > >
> > > All,
> > > I've said this before, but it may be helpful to those who are new.
> > >
> > > The Vision Microsystem is a great unit. HOWEVER, in my opinion, the
> > > IK-2000
> > > is significantly BETTER, and $2000 less!
> > >
> > > You need to see this unit work to believe it. It does a LOT more than
>the
> > > VM-1000 too.
> > >
> > > jim
> > > Tampa
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Wiring harness follow up |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Listers:
My harness came back from a vendor who is mentioned many times on the
list with great praise. Many pins where reversed but where easy to
remove and relocate. ANYONE who has a harness manufactured (and many
manufacturers requires it to be included from the shop supplying the
unit) should do a simple continuity check using the schematic. I am new
to this game but completed a complex panel recently. I did a methodical
job and double checked as I went, still found that I had reversed a few
pins. It happens!!! To address the pins with bare wires showing. The
pins that I received from aeroelectric and also purchased from Fry's
Electronics (sub-d)had no crimping area for the insulation. After a
little pulling and re-locating the bare wire shows. Means nothing as
long as the connection hasn't been over worked and breaks. Upon final
installation test each pin and secure so there is no movement at the
connection of your component. FWIW. Thanks to Bob N. for Aeroelectric,
I got it done.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
To the airport
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wiring harness follow up
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
<svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Sounds like very good customer service. I wouldn't feel bad about
sharing
the company's name if I were you. A friend recently received a wiring
harness from a company for his Garmin super-whiz-bang moving map panel
mount
thing-a-ma-jig. It had many crimps which I see as sub-standard.
Sub-standard in that you could see bare wire protruding from the crimped
pin. The pin is crimped in two places: one to make contact with the
wire,
the other to bite down on the wire's insulation for strain relief. The
insulation was not crimped in most of his pins. I'm going to advise him
to
send it back and I will advise you of the name of the company in either
situation. Good customer service should be rewarded, bad customer
service
should be avoided.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorto1537@rogers.com]
rv8list@yahoogroups.com;
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Wiring harness follow up
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
I reported yesterday about some problems I had with the vendor
supplied wiring harnesses that I purchased with my avionics. There
were several pairs of wires that were on the wrong pins, and one
power line was only 20 AWG even though it was supposed to get a 10a
fuse.
I received many e-mails, on and off the lists, so please understand
if I don't respond to each one individually.
Today I called the vendor to talk to him. He was very cooperative
and easy to deal with. He said that his employees are supposed to
"ohm out" each harness, but that something obviously went wrong with
my harness. He offered to take the harness back, personally fix all
the problems, and to give it a complete inspection - no charge.
Power line - I originally was concerned that I could be looking at a
possible smoke event if the 20 AWG power line ever shorted. However,
Bob Nuckolls responded that although a 10a fuse was a bit much for a
20 AWG wire, and the wire would get hotter than desired if it ever
shorted, it should not lead to a smoke event.
I discussed this issue with the vendor. He explained that the Garmin
specified 18 AWG wire requires an extra long pin to make room for a
larger crimp area. In his opinion, this long pin has a real risk of
later shorting out against other wires in the connector. He
discussed the issue with his local FAA folks, and convinced them to
allow him to use 20 AWG wire.
Note - this power line "Y's" to go to two pins, so it should be
possible to use 20 AWG wire from the pins to the Y, and 18 AWG wire
the rest of the way. I didn't think to bring this up with the vendor
while I had him on the phone, but I requested he do this in the
letter I sent with the harnesses.
Many people wanted me to name the vendor, as they seemed to want to
stay away from him. That was not the point of my messages. Even
with the issues I had with my wiring harness I am still glad I chose
the vendor I did. Any vendor can make a mistake. The important
thing is how they deal with the mistake.
My story was intended to advise that wiring harnesses should be
completely checked out on the bench before installing them in the
aircraft. Several of my problems would not have been noticed until I
was doing the functional checks after installation, and it would have
been very difficult to find and correct the problems with harness
embedded in the aircraft. Don't just assume that any vendor supplied
part is good without inspecting it.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: XP-360 price increase |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
It just keeps making the Jabiru engine much more interesting.
http://www.jabiru.net.au/
Too bad nobody will (apparently) insure it... 8-)
-RB4
RV-7 Empennage
Dave Bristol wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>>
>>Ouch! Did anyone else notice that Superior raised the price of the
>>XP-360 two grand last week? They had lowered them last fall to $19,990
>>for the carb model, and now both Superior and Aerosport Power web sites
>>are listing them at $21,990. I confirmed this with Aerosport. I was
>>going to pull the trigger on this next week. Maybe they still have a
>>few of the cheaper ones left laying around?
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Help in Florida? |
--> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net
Tom -- "girlfriend appears to be untrainable". Not possible! ;-) But there's
a trick. Have her use the gun, and you use the bucking bar. Teach her to
keep the reflection of the barrel, and the barrel of the gun in
line...guarantees that she's lined up, even on curved surfaces. Also, no
feathering of the trigger...full on, or full off, no in betweens. Get her to
think short bursts or pulses with the trigger.
I think riveting is the #1 way to get your 'close ones' involved in the
building process, and makes them feel like they're really participating. Hope
this helps...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re:IFR Equipment requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Allen <fliier@yahoo.com>
I have always planned on doing IFR in my airplane, and I have the empty bank account
to prove it. Although I've flown the airplane for almost 2 years now, this
weekend I will take my first IFR recurrency lesson in the RV.
Here is the list of IFR-related equipment in my RV6. I considered this my minimum
list given my skill set and the characteristics of the airplane
Airframe:
Heated Pitot, Vacuum System, alternate static, 60amp alternator, carb heat
Instruments
Elect T&B, Vaccum A/H, Vacuum DG
Avionics
S-TEC dual axis autopilot, UPSAT GX-60 approach certified GPS receiver, Transcal
serial encoder, Mid-continent instruments CDI with annunciators, OBS/Hold switch,
Alt encoder, KX125, Marker beacon receiver
For cockpit organization I am using a kneeboard and I have installed a center console
for holding charts and other equipment.
I have on order a KN73 glideslope receiver and am shopping for a KI-209 Nav head.
This will allow me to do precision approaches in the future.
For future upgrades I am considering an airbox modification to allow unfiltered
carb heat and a standby vacuum system.
That sounds like a lot of very expensive stuff, doesn't it. On top of that you
have to add $400/year for GPS database upgrades plus the cost of charts. It's
certainly not everybody's cup of tea, but for me the decision was straightforward.
IFR capability adds reliability to the airplane which is important when
you have limited time to fly. On top of that, IFR flying is just flat-out fun.
I remember one flight, back when I was commuting to work in a C150. The flight
was normally only 15 minutes, but that day the controller was vectoring me in
and out of these spectacular cloud formations over the LA basin. It was 45 minutes
of the most (naturally) beautiful thing I have ever seen. Or there was
the time on final approach to Palomar with a golden sunset lighting the walls
of a spectacular canyon of clouds. . . Those are things you only get to experience
at hard altitudes.
John Allen, RV6A
---------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling issues.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/7/03 8:20:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Knicholas2@aol.com writes:
<< I am disappointed in the fit of the top -to bottom fiberglass cowling on
my
RV9A. I can see that I need to to alot of trimming and sanding to get the
front of the cowling pieces to fit together even closely, let alone look
good. Has anyone else had this problem or did I just get a lousy fiberglass
job? Any suggestions?
>>
Hiya Kim, guess what, I am about a week ahead of you in fitting my epoxy cowl
to my -6. The area around the inlets requires a lot of sanding, filing,
cutting away and re-glassing to get a decent fit. I suppose we are lucky
compared to some of the horror stories I have heard about the old polyester
cowls but that sure doesn't make it any more fun. I am a certified member of
the I Hate Fiberglass club, and still have much to do. Just keep reminding
yourself that it's all part of the learning process.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 17
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| Subject: | Another Cowling Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
OK, here's my question re: cowling install. I'm at the point of fitting my
filtered air box in the lower cowl and it's apparent that the airbox will
have to shortened because the front of it now just touches the lip of the air
scoop inlet. My problem is I don't see anywhere in the instructions how much
distance there should be between the front of the air box and the air scoop
inlet to allow for molding the inlet extension and installing the air box
seal. What did some of you do who have been there and done that?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger & that Insurance word again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Thanks, gang. I was just trying to get an idea where to start from with
pricing. Gossip from this group, heck I don't care........it's a starting
point. Now it's time to nail it down.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: XP-360 price increase |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
is the price quoted for an "assembled" engine? How
much if it is disassembled?
Glenn Williams
do not archive
--- Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> It just keeps making the Jabiru engine much more
> interesting.
>
> http://www.jabiru.net.au/
>
> Too bad nobody will (apparently) insure it... 8-)
>
> -RB4
> RV-7 Empennage
>
> Dave Bristol wrote:
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point
> <jpoint@mindspring.com>
> >>
> >>Ouch! Did anyone else notice that Superior raised
> the price of the
> >>XP-360 two grand last week? They had lowered them
> last fall to $19,990
> >>for the carb model, and now both Superior and
> Aerosport Power web sites
> >>are listing them at $21,990. I confirmed this
> with Aerosport. I was
> >>going to pull the trigger on this next week.
> Maybe they still have a
> >>few of the cheaper ones left laying around?
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Message 20
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| Subject: | Another Cowling Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
My airbox extended past the scoop inlet. I trimmed it to a 1/2" inch gap
between it and the scoop inlet. I am planning to attach the rubber gasket
material directly and not make the fiberglass tunnel. This will allow room
for the engine to move.
Don Mack
don@dmack.net www.dmack.net
RV-6A
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
OK, here's my question re: cowling install. I'm at the point of fitting my
filtered air box in the lower cowl and it's apparent that the airbox will
have to shortened because the front of it now just touches the lip of the
air
scoop inlet. My problem is I don't see anywhere in the instructions how
much
distance there should be between the front of the air box and the air scoop
inlet to allow for molding the inlet extension and installing the air box
seal. What did some of you do who have been there and done that?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 21
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| Subject: | Fw: Gretz elevator trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Lane" <jlane@crosscountybank.com>
Free Web Email & Filter Enhancements.
http://www.freewebemail.com/filtertools/
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Lane
Subject: Gretz elevator trim
Warren Gretz sells a cable (in his kit to convert to electric pitch trim) to attach
the Ray Allen (Mac) servo (which is then located in a position under the
fairing on the enpenage) to the trim horn ( the standard one one Van includes
in the kit for the manual cable ).
For those who have used it on an RV-8 or 8A, did you find that you must bend the
cable approximately 45 degrees to atttach to the servo and if so, does this
cause any problems?
Anyone have any pictures of your installation?
Jim
Should I just replace the manual trim horn on the trim tab with the electric trim
horn and install the servo inside the trim tab or is there any advantage to
the Gretz kit?
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Another Cowling Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Don!! You can't do that! If you don't extend the scoop inwards to be level
with the bottom of the cowling where the scoop connects, every time you want
to get the cowling off, you would have to take the prop off to pull the cowl
forward enough to clear!!
Cheers!! (I hope)-----Henry H.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Another Cowling Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
It is level.
I have pulled the *(*#$*&*@ thing off a bunch of times already.
Don
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Don!! You can't do that! If you don't extend the scoop inwards to be level
with the bottom of the cowling where the scoop connects, every time you want
to get the cowling off, you would have to take the prop off to pull the cowl
forward enough to clear!!
Cheers!! (I hope)-----Henry H.
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Orlando trip |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Wayne:
The best in rolando itself, is Executive Air,
or Showalter's, they are both same field.
They can get you any motel around,there are many
not too far...Sorry I do not have their no. right here
but in your Aopa Directory, it will give you all that.
We have a good group around here, of builders.
When you get here give me a call.
Bert 407-384-4961
rv6a
Do not archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tinted canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Pete:
Thanks for the info. what part of florida are you.
I am in Orlando.
Working instrument panel on rv6a
Bert
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Another Cowling Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Pursuant to Harry Crosby's question re scoop/filter box clearance, What I
did was to drop down vertically from inside the cowl, a strip of scrap alum
touching the point where the cowl curves around to form the snout and
measure the distance from that strip to the snout lips. that distance is
how deep the snout extension must be molded to. The front of the airbox
should be shortened a further 1/2" to clear the snout extension, the same
distance as the clearance between the cooling-air inlets and the baffle
floors.
Remember that the cowl must clear the filter-box entirely when dropped
straight down. If the filter- box penetrates into the scoop tunnel at all,
you will have to remove the prop to get it off! I just sent another post
addressing Don's question re the above. He was considering not molding a
snout extension at all!! As Ken Scott wrote in the RVator a few years ago,
this is really a trap for the unwary!
Cheers!! -----Henry Hore
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Help in Florida? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody98@directvinternet.com>
Tom, I would be willing to help but I'm to far away. I live in Ft.
Lauderdale.
90073 fuse
firstname lastname wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: firstname lastname <toys@ufl.edu>
>
>
>I'm a long time lurker who is now able to start back to work on my project
>after a 1+ year hiatus. I'm ready to rivit the main wing skins, and am looking
>for someone in my area who could be bribed into helping me. My girlfriend
>appears to be untrainable. I'm in Gainesville, FL. Would also like to meet some
>local RV builders/flyers.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tom Crawford
>Gainesville, FL
>RV6A Wings/Fuse
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: tinted canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Bert:
I put the darker canopy on my 8A and I am very happy with it. I like the
looks and from the inside you can't really tell. I have flown at night also
and it is not a problem at all.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
51 hours !!
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
Hi All,
I just received my 7A empennage kit, and I'm now just a workbench
away from getting started. My question is about my flush rivet set. I got
the mushroom set without the guard to start with, as a lot of people had
recommended it. However, having put a smile on my starter projects in an RV
construction class, and not quite trusting my concentration to stay 100%
while riveting, I decided to go to the safe side and get the set with the
rubber guard and the swivel.
I just received it from Cleaveland. Regarding the rubber guard, it looks
like it would keep the set from sitting flush on the skin while riveting. Do
I need to grind it down a little bit to be a closer fit, or will it squish
down to allow the head of the set to sit flush on the skin?
Thanks for any advice.
Josh Siler
RV-7A Empennage!
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard |
--> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net
Joshua -- I bought both kinds of rivet sets, and I used the one with the
rubber guard a couple of times and then abandoned it in favour of the one
without the rubber guard. My reasoning was somewhat along the lines of the
concern that you outline in your note, and also, I found that with a little
practice, that I really didn't need the 'insurance' of the rubber guard. In
fact, it just seemed to get in the way of seeing what was really going on.
Smiles are going to happen, rubber guard or not, so, as they say, 'you pays
your money and...' Well you know the rest. Hope this helps...cheers...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Gretz elevator trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Jim,
I've put one of these in my 6A (not flying yet though). It moves the servo out
of the elevator - a double weight savings (servo weight and counterbalance).
Mine has the cable with a single bend in it right as it comes out of the HS and
it angles the servo. I'm using the manual trim tab horn - although I've heard
that it may not have enough authority.
If you want pictures, contact me directly,
Ralph Capen
-------Original Message-------
From: Jim Lane <jlane@crosscountybank.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Gretz elevator trim
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Lane" <jlane@crosscountybank.com>
Free Web Email & Filter Enhancements.
http://www.freewebemail.com/filtertools/
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Lane
Subject: Gretz elevator trim
Warren Gretz sells a cable (in his kit to convert to electric pitch trim)
to attach the Ray Allen (Mac) servo (which is then located in a position
under the fairing on the enpenage) to the trim horn ( the standard one one
Van includes in the kit for the manual cable ).
For those who have used it on an RV-8 or 8A, did you find that you must
bend the cable approximately 45 degrees to atttach to the servo and if so,
does this cause any problems?
Anyone have any pictures of your installation?
Jim
Should I just replace the manual trim horn on the trim tab with the
electric trim horn and install the servo inside the trim tab or is there any
advantage to the Gretz kit?
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Help in Florida? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
I'd also check with your local EAA chapters. There surely will be RV
builders and hopefully Tech Counselors to help with your project. You can
also call or e-mail Van and he'll give you a list of registered builders in
you area.
Dave
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench Recommendations? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
I had set out to buy Avery's torque wrench that is calibrated in inch pounds
but they are back ordered and didn't expect them until well into Feb at
least and I needed it now. I went and bought a Sears unit and it works fine.
I forget the exact range but it's something like 20 - 150 in pounds. The
only problem with the Sears one, and makes me wish I perhaps had waited, is
that it is a 3/8" drive versus a 1/4" drive. I used a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter
to get a smaller extension and socket to use since torquing the bolts on the
aileron attach brackets is a little tight and you need the smallest socket
you to fit in there. Other than that it works great, and Sears of course has
a great return policy if something ever goes wrong.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings almost done- working on tail
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Torque Wrench Recommendations?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Evenson <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> Any recommendations on brand or type of torque wrenches for RV builders?
>
> I see where Van recommends inch/lb. type, and the list provided in the
book says to expect a range of 20-1500 in. lb. settings in RVs. I think I
understand that one wrench will not cover the entire range.
>
> I was considering one in the 30-200 inch/lb. range, but then I noticed the
first bolt to tighten is a #10, with a torque recommendation of 20-25 inch
lbs, so I'm wondering if most of the bolts in the RV will be at the lower or
higher end of that range. Any comments?
>
> Also there seems to be a huge range of prices--I've seen wrenches from $69
to $240. Would appreciate your comments based on experience in building
RVs. Thanks.
>
> Roger.
> RV9A, Empennage half-done.
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
I trimmed mine down. I found it was letting rivets get set with the head a
little high. It works fine with a little trimmed off. Actually it is
probably the same as not having any rubber at all now.Sometimes I like the
swivel, particularly if I am riveting on a curve, and sometimes I just like
the straight set. Maybe its hormones.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings almost done- working on tail
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
Subject: RV-List: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
>
> Hi All,
> I just received my 7A empennage kit, and I'm now just a workbench
> away from getting started. My question is about my flush rivet set. I got
> the mushroom set without the guard to start with, as a lot of people had
> recommended it. However, having put a smile on my starter projects in an
RV
> construction class, and not quite trusting my concentration to stay 100%
> while riveting, I decided to go to the safe side and get the set with the
> rubber guard and the swivel.
>
> I just received it from Cleaveland. Regarding the rubber guard, it looks
> like it would keep the set from sitting flush on the skin while riveting.
Do
> I need to grind it down a little bit to be a closer fit, or will it squish
> down to allow the head of the set to sit flush on the skin?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Josh Siler
> RV-7A Empennage!
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Josh,
It'll squish down. You made the right choice. As you progress you'll
progress to the without the rubber cover and swivel, but for now the once
you bougth from Cleveland will save you alot of grief.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard
>Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 13:29:10 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
>
>Hi All,
> I just received my 7A empennage kit, and I'm now just a workbench
>away from getting started. My question is about my flush rivet set. I got
>the mushroom set without the guard to start with, as a lot of people had
>recommended it. However, having put a smile on my starter projects in an RV
>construction class, and not quite trusting my concentration to stay 100%
>while riveting, I decided to go to the safe side and get the set with the
>rubber guard and the swivel.
>
>I just received it from Cleaveland. Regarding the rubber guard, it looks
>like it would keep the set from sitting flush on the skin while riveting.
>Do
>I need to grind it down a little bit to be a closer fit, or will it squish
>down to allow the head of the set to sit flush on the skin?
>
>Thanks for any advice.
>
>Josh Siler
>RV-7A Empennage!
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Torque wrench tips (was: Torque Wrench Recommendations) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
A few torque wrench tips:
1) Always set the wrench back to zero when not in use. The spring will
weaken otherwise.
2) "Warm it up" by operating it a few times before using to actually set
the final torque.
3) Never jerk the wrench, but pull smoothly until it clicks.
4) Make sure the threads are clean, dry, and free running.
5) Only lube threads or use LocTite if specified. If lube or LocTite is
used when not specified, the same torque will result in greater pull on the
bolt than intended. This could over-stress the bolt.
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard |
--> RV-List message posted by: N8292W@aol.com
One thing I found with the rubber mushroom is that I actually got more
'smiles' with it than with the type that did not have the rubber. If you
look closely, you will see a 90 degree edge around the metal face where the
rubber fits in. If you get the gun on an angle, this metal edge will hit the
aluminum causing a smile. Maybe with your swivel you won't have this issue,
I never used a swivel so I don't know. Once I started using the all metal
mushroom set, there are no sharp corners to ding the metal unless you are way
off angle.
I hope this helps, if it is not clear, e-mail me back and I'll try and be
more specific. Thanks
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 N223RV 17.4 hours and in need of some good flyin' weather!!!
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
Great - exactly what I needed to know. Thanks for taking the time to
reply.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Subject: Re: RV-List: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
<crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Josh,
It'll squish down. You made the right choice. As you progress you'll
progress to the without the rubber cover and swivel, but for now the
once
you bougth from Cleveland will save you alot of grief.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard
>Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 13:29:10 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
>
>Hi All,
> I just received my 7A empennage kit, and I'm now just a
workbench
>away from getting started. My question is about my flush rivet set. I
got
>the mushroom set without the guard to start with, as a lot of people
had
>recommended it. However, having put a smile on my starter projects in
an RV
>construction class, and not quite trusting my concentration to stay
100%
>while riveting, I decided to go to the safe side and get the set with
the
>rubber guard and the swivel.
>
>I just received it from Cleaveland. Regarding the rubber guard, it
looks
>like it would keep the set from sitting flush on the skin while
riveting.
>Do
>I need to grind it down a little bit to be a closer fit, or will it
squish
>down to allow the head of the set to sit flush on the skin?
>
>Thanks for any advice.
>
>Josh Siler
>RV-7A Empennage!
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Joshua Siler wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
>
> Hi All,
> I just received my 7A empennage kit, and I'm now just a workbench
> away from getting started. My question is about my flush rivet set. I got
> the mushroom set without the guard to start with, as a lot of people had
> recommended it. However, having put a smile on my starter projects in an RV
> construction class, and not quite trusting my concentration to stay 100%
> while riveting, I decided to go to the safe side and get the set with the
> rubber guard and the swivel.
>
> I just received it from Cleaveland. Regarding the rubber guard, it looks
> like it would keep the set from sitting flush on the skin while riveting. Do
> I need to grind it down a little bit to be a closer fit, or will it squish
> down to allow the head of the set to sit flush on the skin?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Josh Siler
> RV-7A Empennage!
I started out with the all-metal set and quickly replaced it with the
swivel set which I used for the remainder of the project. I did spend a
couple minutes rubbing the set on a sheet of sandpaper to work down the
rubber guard a bit, but I never had any problems with rivet setting
thereafter.....unless it was gross operator error. :-(
One advantage of the swivel set is that you can draft your teenage child
or other untrained rivet gun operator and they can quickly be driving
rivets in a totally acceptable manner. I also like the swivel since I
did most of the riveting singlehanded; often my eyes were on the bucking
bar side of the job and the rivet gun had to be operated "blind". The
swivel allowed me to get good results as long as the gun was pointed
more-or-less at the rivet.
As with everything else on this project, use whatever works best for
you. One of the biggest mistakes you can make is to blindly follow the
advice of others without determining if a particular method or
installation is best for YOUR plane.
Sam Buchanan (1999 RV-6, 460 hrs)
Message 40
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| Subject: | I want to build a RV for someone |
--> RV-List message posted by: N8292W@aol.com
I just finished my RV-4 and am going insane sitting home all the time..... I
have a hanger at Willow Run Airport in Ypsilanti, MI. I am going to build
myself a -7 or a -10 once I get some money (I'm broke now) but I want to
build another plane.....
Is there someone out there who would consider me building a plane for them?
I want to build, but lack the funding currently.
I am a mechanical engineer and I have completed my RV-4, so I have some
handywork you can look at to see my building capabilities. Don't know if
there is much interest out there, but thought I'd try.
If anyone has any leads, please let me know.
Thanks
Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 17.4 hours and waiting for some decent Michigan flying weather.
Do Not Archive
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Orlando trip |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
Wayne,
How close to Orlando do you need to be? Mid Florida (X-55) is about 30
north of MCO, 3000' N-S grass field and RV friendly. Fuel is $2.25
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dwpetrus@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Orlando trip
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
>
> I will be flying the recently completed RV8A to Orlando next week and
would
> like recommendations for RV "friendly" airports for overnight stays.
>
> Wayne Petrus
> West Monroe, LA
> RV8A
> 318-366-5509
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | from the EAA news wire re insurance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
February 7, 2003 - Responding to the ever-diversifying needs of its
members, EAA announced a major enhancement to the EAA Aircraft Insurance
Plan this week. Effective immediately, aircraft powered by most auto
engine conversion packages and non-type certificated aircraft engines
are insurable under the plan.
Charlie Becker, Director of EAA Aviation Information Services
department, stated, This change in the EAA Aircraft Insurance Plan will
cover EAA members who choose a non-traditional engine to power their
aircraft. EAAers have always been searching for lower cost, more
efficient powerplants since EAA was formed 50 years ago. Now, the vast
majority of these modern engine packages can be insured under the EAA
plan.
Message 43
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Rick,
What size springs? (approximate length and diameter).
Have you pulled a spring out 1 inch with a small scale to get "inches of
stretch per pound" (i.e., "spring rate")? Or, weigh some object and hang
from spring and measure deflection, then divide inches of deflection by wt
(oz divided by 16 to convert to pounds) to get spring rate inches per pound?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: <RGray67968@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
>
> Hi John,
> I didn't like the rudder tab so I put springs on my pedals like my
> Kitfox had. They connect from the cable bolts to the firewall, one on each
> side. Pulled the spring on the right side a little tighter. It took a
little
> trial and error but now it's pretty close. This also keeps your rudder
from
> flapping in the breeze and keeps your cables taught when parked on the
ramp.
> Tried to get a hold of you a couple times to have lunch or go
flying
> but no luck???
> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: XP-360 price increase |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I believe they call that the "bait and switch" in retail. Of course the
lead time for magazines is so much that it could be several months old.
You can get the prices from Aerosport power's website, which is so
simple you can probably view it on an old IBM selectric. They confirmed
that their prices went up because of Superior's price increase.
Mattituck went up as well, but not as much, and I am still waiting to
hear back from them as to why.
Jeff
Dave Bristol wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
>Jeff,
>
>Interesting....
>An article in the new Sport Aviation (Feb) on page 114 states that the price
>has just been reduced to $19,900 from $23,000.
>Also interesting is the fact that if you don't have the latest 20 gig
>browser you can't even look at their website! But, that's their loss, not
>mine.
>
>
>
>
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