Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:18 AM - Tip-up Canopy help (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
2. 10:14 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 02/08/03 (PSPRV6A@aol.com)
3. 10:20 AM - Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab (Karie Daniel)
4. 11:37 AM - Cabin Heat Box TG-10 (Mark Phillips)
5. 12:24 PM - Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab (David Burton)
6. 01:15 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Box TG-10 (Gary Zilik)
7. 01:33 PM - Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab (Karie Daniel)
8. 01:54 PM - Re: Tip-up canopy help (emrath)
9. 02:08 PM - Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab (Chris Good)
10. 04:21 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Box TG-10 (Lenleg@aol.com)
11. 04:55 PM - Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab (Dana Overall)
12. 04:56 PM - G-meter depth (Dan Checkoway)
13. 05:26 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Box TG-10 (Jim Jewell)
14. 05:40 PM - Re: G-meter depth (Kevin Horton)
15. 06:14 PM - Re: G-meter depth (Konrad Werner)
16. 06:19 PM - Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab (Wier, Daniel C.)
17. 09:21 PM - Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab (Karie Daniel)
18. 10:23 PM - Re: rubber guards on mushroom sets (Gary)
19. 10:33 PM - Vertical Stab Pre-punched holes ()
20. 11:12 PM - Re: Tip-up canopy help (Gary)
21. 11:13 PM - Re: Re: Cowling issues (Gary)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tip-up Canopy help |
--> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
Bob:
Regarding the distance between the canopy top skin and fuselage top skin, I
had exactly the same interference problem. The solution is to file a slight
clearance (perhaps 1/32 inch) on one skin or the other, but just in the area
between the hinges. Outside the hinges usually requires no clearance.
Now, before you file make sure your canopy frame is complete and riveted
together and any stiffeners you plan to install are in place as that will
change the fit. I also found the fit changes slightly after the gas struts
are installed. Just go slowly in filing the clearance. Installing my tip-up
took three months, but it looks great.
Pete Hunt
RV-6, N216PH (reserved)
Clearwater, FL
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 02/08/03 |
--> RV-List message posted by: PSPRV6A@aol.com
Tip-up canopy jamming problem: We saw the potential for this on our 6A.
Our fix was to rivet a strip of .015 thickspring-temper stainless steel
between the front fixed skin and the bulkhead. This makes sure that the
tip-up skin can't get below the level of the fixed skin, which is the root of
the problem. Then a tiny chamfer on the edge of the moving skin and on the
fixed skin is all it takes to prevent a hang-up. Note that the moving skin
will move on a radius about the pivot points so it needs a bit of clearance
plus the chamfer.
You can get the sping temper .015 stainless from various tool supply
houses and the leftover material (weighs little) will make fine "skid plates"
on the floor below the rudder pedals. Contact me off list if you need help
on sources.
Paul & Eric Petersen, RV6A tip up, 90% done
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
I'm getting ready to rivet the skins on the HS and I'm supposed to blind rivet
HS-702 to HS-707 and HS-708. Granted there are only a few pop rivets that I have
that will fit these holes but the plans simply say "blind" rivet these parts.
Any ideas which one to use? I think it looks like I should use a CS4-4 but I'm
just guessing.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA. (formerly of Maple Valley, WA) I moved this week. 3 car garage now!
RV-7A
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cabin Heat Box TG-10 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Listers-
I'm staring at the little triangular heat box kit from Vans and am
wondering if anyone else is concerned that this thing (including the
"flap") are made of aluminum instead of stainless? After paying close
attention to making sure my firewall is well sealed and an effective
fire barrier, this thing just looks a little vulnerable. Also, has
anyone experienced any significant problem with the flap sealing well in
summer to prevent heat from leaking through? Searching the archives
didn't produce much...
Thanks in advance-
Mark - do not archive
PS- Had a great time at Bob Nuckolls Aeroelectric seminar in Nashville
last weekend- very informative & money well spent- Two Thumbs Up!!!
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
CS4-4, or you could use flush rivets if you want to go to the effort.
For a how-to guide to building an RV-7 check out Dan Checkoway's web page
at:
http://www.rvproject.com
You'll probably want a fast connection. There are a million photographs...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>
> I'm getting ready to rivet the skins on the HS and I'm supposed to blind
rivet HS-702 to HS-707 and HS-708. Granted there are only a few pop rivets
that I have that will fit these holes but the plans simply say "blind" rivet
these parts.
>
> Any ideas which one to use? I think it looks like I should use a CS4-4 but
I'm just guessing.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA. (formerly of Maple Valley, WA) I moved this week. 3 car
garage now!
> RV-7A
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Box TG-10 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Local builders have made a new SS flapper door and used SS hinge as
well. I built my own and used this approach. The guy who builds heat
muff for Vetterman (Rick Robbins ??) heat box has the SS flapper and
hinge. He also is now marketing the heat muffs and box that utilize 1.5"
scat tube instead of the standard 2". I have a couple of these heat
boxes and muffs for the 6 I am currently building, Nice units.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ 3rd birthday was yesterday. 450+ hours.
Mark Phillips wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
>Listers-
>
>I'm staring at the little triangular heat box kit from Vans and am
>wondering if anyone else is concerned that this thing (including the
>"flap") are made of aluminum instead of stainless? After paying close
>attention to making sure my firewall is well sealed and an effective
>fire barrier, this thing just looks a little vulnerable. Also, has
>anyone experienced any significant problem with the flap sealing well in
>summer to prevent heat from leaking through? Searching the archives
>didn't produce much...
>
>Thanks in advance-
>
>Mark - do not archive
>
>PS- Had a great time at Bob Nuckolls Aeroelectric seminar in Nashville
>last weekend- very informative & money well spent- Two Thumbs Up!!!
>
>
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
Thanks David, your reply came just in time. I'm moving foward and hope to
have at least on skin on today.
Karie
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> CS4-4, or you could use flush rivets if you want to go to the effort.
>
> For a how-to guide to building an RV-7 check out Dan Checkoway's web page
> at:
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> You'll probably want a fast connection. There are a million
photographs...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> >
> > I'm getting ready to rivet the skins on the HS and I'm supposed to blind
> rivet HS-702 to HS-707 and HS-708. Granted there are only a few pop rivets
> that I have that will fit these holes but the plans simply say "blind"
rivet
> these parts.
> >
> > Any ideas which one to use? I think it looks like I should use a CS4-4
but
> I'm just guessing.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > Sammamish, WA. (formerly of Maple Valley, WA) I moved this week. 3 car
> garage now!
> > RV-7A
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tip-up canopy help |
--> RV-List message posted by: emrath <emrath@comcast.net>
One thing I've done with success when neededing to hold parts together
temporarily is to use screws and nuts. The local hobby store has some very
fine threaded flat head screws that fit well in a dimpled 3/32nd hole. This
allowed me to install all my fuselage skins with one rivet through the joint
holding the skin, bulkhead and stringer. Might work for your tipper, I
don't know. Mine's a slider.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Karie,
I built a 6A, & typically the MK-319-BS pop rivets were used in the places where
a solid rivet is not possible. These are smaller than the CS-4-4, but I believe
they are stronger. They need a 7/64th" hole. Of course the kits have changed
a bit since my building days :-)
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI.
RV-6A N86CG, 495 hrs.
--
On Sun, 9 Feb 2003 10:18:19
Karie Daniel wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>
>I'm getting ready to rivet the skins on the HS and I'm supposed to blind rivet
HS-702 to HS-707 and HS-708. Granted there are only a few pop rivets that I have
that will fit these holes but the plans simply say "blind" rivet these parts.
>
>Any ideas which one to use? I think it looks like I should use a CS4-4 but I'm
just guessing.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Karie Daniel
>Sammamish, WA. (formerly of Maple Valley, WA) I moved this week. 3 car garage
now!
>RV-7A
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Box TG-10 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
I don't have a problem with air leaking through .. in fact, I have the
opposite problem ... can't keep the door open ... I have to put a plastic
tube on the cable to keep the door open.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
54 hours !!
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Karie, and or David,
On the lower right hand side of my drawing #3 that shows ribs on the left
hand side of the blowup.........it says "LP4-3 all HS 707 to HS 702 to HS
708 blind rivets" If the newest plans show a CS4-4 please let me know so I
can update that rivet call on by website.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
>Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 13:31:57 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>
>Thanks David, your reply came just in time. I'm moving foward and hope to
>have at least on skin on today.
>
>Karie
>
>Do not archive
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> >
> > CS4-4, or you could use flush rivets if you want to go to the effort.
> >
> > For a how-to guide to building an RV-7 check out Dan Checkoway's web
>page
> > at:
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > You'll probably want a fast connection. There are a million
>photographs...
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> > >
> > > I'm getting ready to rivet the skins on the HS and I'm supposed to
>blind
> > rivet HS-702 to HS-707 and HS-708. Granted there are only a few pop
>rivets
> > that I have that will fit these holes but the plans simply say "blind"
>rivet
> > these parts.
> > >
> > > Any ideas which one to use? I think it looks like I should use a CS4-4
>but
> > I'm just guessing.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Karie Daniel
> > > Sammamish, WA. (formerly of Maple Valley, WA) I moved this week. 3 car
> > garage now!
> > > RV-7A
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Can anybody out there tell me the depth of the G meter that Van's sells?
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Box TG-10 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Mark,
I took mine apart and replaced the door and the acuator arm with better
fitting stainless pieces. While I had the thing apart I made a duplicate
unit that I have not as yet decided to use.
I also moved the actuator arm to the opposite side of the door so that it
could be operated from the firewall side. This allowed me to put a scat tube
flange protruding through into the cabin to attach tubing for splitting
heated air to both sides of the footwell area.
Jim in Kelowna do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cabin Heat Box TG-10
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Listers-
>
> I'm staring at the little triangular heat box kit from Vans and am
> wondering if anyone else is concerned that this thing (including the
> "flap") are made of aluminum instead of stainless? After paying close
> attention to making sure my firewall is well sealed and an effective
> fire barrier, this thing just looks a little vulnerable. Also, has
> anyone experienced any significant problem with the flap sealing well in
> summer to prevent heat from leaking through? Searching the archives
> didn't produce much...
>
> Thanks in advance-
>
> Mark - do not archive
>
> PS- Had a great time at Bob Nuckolls Aeroelectric seminar in Nashville
> last weekend- very informative & money well spent- Two Thumbs Up!!!
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: G-meter depth |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
At 4:55 PM -0800 9/2/03, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Can anybody out there tell me the depth of the G meter that Van's sells?
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (finish)
>http://www.rvproject.com
Dan,
It is somewhere between 3 3/8 and 3 7/16 overall, measured from the
flange that sits against the panel.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: G-meter depth |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner@wans.net>
Dan,
Mine measures approx. 3.5" deep behind the panel. I bought my 2.25" unit
used, now from Vans. Looks like an identical instrument though.
Konrad
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: G-meter depth
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Can anybody out there tell me the depth of the G meter that Van's sells?
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel@thegreatwhite.net>
I have the Newest Plans, and just did mine today. It does say LP4-3 on
that part. Kind of tight to get it in there too. The CS4-4 come in on
the rudder I believe, and make sure you always check your plans twice
and the book twice before you place a rivet you may put one where you
are not supposed to and have to drill it out or put the wrong ones in.
Especially on the center of the HS where it attaches to the Fuselage
later.
Good Luck,
Daniel Wier
www.buildtherv7.com
RV-7
-----Original Message-----
From: Dana Overall [mailto:bo124rs@hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Karie, and or David,
On the lower right hand side of my drawing #3 that shows ribs on the
left
hand side of the blowup.........it says "LP4-3 all HS 707 to HS 702 to
HS
708 blind rivets" If the newest plans show a CS4-4 please let me know
so I
can update that rivet call on by website.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
>Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 13:31:57 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>
>Thanks David, your reply came just in time. I'm moving foward and hope
to
>have at least on skin on today.
>
>Karie
>
>Do not archive
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> >
> > CS4-4, or you could use flush rivets if you want to go to the
effort.
> >
> > For a how-to guide to building an RV-7 check out Dan Checkoway's web
>page
> > at:
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > You'll probably want a fast connection. There are a million
>photographs...
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> > >
> > > I'm getting ready to rivet the skins on the HS and I'm supposed to
>blind
> > rivet HS-702 to HS-707 and HS-708. Granted there are only a few pop
>rivets
> > that I have that will fit these holes but the plans simply say
"blind"
>rivet
> > these parts.
> > >
> > > Any ideas which one to use? I think it looks like I should use a
CS4-4
>but
> > I'm just guessing.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Karie Daniel
> > > Sammamish, WA. (formerly of Maple Valley, WA) I moved this week. 3
car
> > garage now!
> > > RV-7A
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
You are correct, I overlooked this and I swear I looked at drawing 3 for a
half hour. Unfortunately I just finished one side completely but these blind
rivets are still accessible to drill out.
Thanks for having the eagle eye and responding, hopefully this will help
someone else down the road. It took most of the day to do one skin but it
looks great and I feel like I really accomplished something.
BTW.... There was a previous post regarding smiley faces using the swivel
head flush set with the rubber guard. All you need to do is put a piece of
masking tape over the head and no smiley faces. A cool trick I learned in a
builders class, I used it today and it worked nicely.
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel@thegreatwhite.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wier, Daniel C."
<daniel@thegreatwhite.net>
>
> I have the Newest Plans, and just did mine today. It does say LP4-3 on
> that part. Kind of tight to get it in there too. The CS4-4 come in on
> the rudder I believe, and make sure you always check your plans twice
> and the book twice before you place a rivet you may put one where you
> are not supposed to and have to drill it out or put the wrong ones in.
> Especially on the center of the HS where it attaches to the Fuselage
> later.
>
> Good Luck,
> Daniel Wier
> www.buildtherv7.com
> RV-7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dana Overall [mailto:bo124rs@hotmail.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Karie, and or David,
>
> On the lower right hand side of my drawing #3 that shows ribs on the
> left
> hand side of the blowup.........it says "LP4-3 all HS 707 to HS 702 to
> HS
> 708 blind rivets" If the newest plans show a CS4-4 please let me know
> so I
> can update that rivet call on by website.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
> >From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> >Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 13:31:57 -0800
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> >
> >Thanks David, your reply came just in time. I'm moving foward and hope
> to
> >have at least on skin on today.
> >
> >Karie
> >
> >Do not archive
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> > >
> > > CS4-4, or you could use flush rivets if you want to go to the
> effort.
> > >
> > > For a how-to guide to building an RV-7 check out Dan Checkoway's web
>
> >page
> > > at:
> > > http://www.rvproject.com
> > >
> > > You'll probably want a fast connection. There are a million
> >photographs...
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> > > >
> > > > I'm getting ready to rivet the skins on the HS and I'm supposed to
>
> >blind
> > > rivet HS-702 to HS-707 and HS-708. Granted there are only a few pop
> >rivets
> > > that I have that will fit these holes but the plans simply say
> "blind"
> >rivet
> > > these parts.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas which one to use? I think it looks like I should use a
> CS4-4
> >but
> > > I'm just guessing.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Karie Daniel
> > > > Sammamish, WA. (formerly of Maple Valley, WA) I moved this week. 3
> car
> > > garage now!
> > > > RV-7A
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | re: rubber guards on mushroom sets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
I agree with Sam (this time). Listen to everyone's advise, then try it and decide
for yourself.
I have not used the swivel set, but have been happy with the rubber guard with
no modifications. I don't remember where I got it, so it may be different from
yours. I like it because it doesn't skate around, and it is easy to feel when
you are square and straight on the surface. No smilies here.
Actually, my wife/assistant, Rosie the Riveter won't let me have the gun much anymore......ever
since she discovered it is way easier than running the bucking
bar. I do as much as I can solo, so I get to use it, too. Don't tell her.
Gary
________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________
Time: 05:41:54 PM PST US
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Swivel Mushroom Set with Rubber Guard
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Joshua Siler wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
>
> Hi All,
> I just received my 7A empennage kit, and I'm now just a workbench
> away from getting started. My question is about my flush rivet set. I got
> the mushroom set without the guard to start with, as a lot of people had
> recommended it. However, having put a smile on my starter projects in an RV
> construction class, and not quite trusting my concentration to stay 100%
> while riveting, I decided to go to the safe side and get the set with the
> rubber guard and the swivel.
>
> I just received it from Cleaveland. Regarding the rubber guard, it looks
> like it would keep the set from sitting flush on the skin while riveting. Do
> I need to grind it down a little bit to be a closer fit, or will it squish
> down to allow the head of the set to sit flush on the skin?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Josh Siler
> RV-7A Empennage!
I started out with the all-metal set and quickly replaced it with the
swivel set which I used for the remainder of the project. I did spend a
couple minutes rubbing the set on a sheet of sandpaper to work down the
rubber guard a bit, but I never had any problems with rivet setting
thereafter.....unless it was gross operator error. :-(
One advantage of the swivel set is that you can draft your teenage child
or other untrained rivet gun operator and they can quickly be driving
rivets in a totally acceptable manner. I also like the swivel since I
did most of the riveting singlehanded; often my eyes were on the bucking
bar side of the job and the rivet gun had to be operated "blind". The
swivel allowed me to get good results as long as the gun was pointed
more-or-less at the rivet.
As with everything else on this project, use whatever works best for
you. One of the biggest mistakes you can make is to blindly follow the
advice of others without determining if a particular method or
installation is best for YOUR plane.
Sam Buchanan (1999 RV-6, 460 hrs)
---
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Vertical Stab Pre-punched holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
7 Builders,
I was clecoing up the VS today, and I noticed that the forward-most hole on the
VS-705 and VS-706 were missing. It shows the hole on the drawing and makes no
mention of drilling it in the plans. From the way it looks, I need to use the
forward-most skin holes as a guide and drill through the rib. Is the hole
in the rib missing intentionally to ease alignment, or did my ribs just miss a
hole? All of the rest of the rib/skin holes aligned beautifully.
Thanks in advance,
Scott
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tip-up canopy help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Bob......I had exactly the same problem last summer. I posted it to the list,
so it should be in the archives.
That is one of those areas that should be changed and clarified in the manal......apparently
it has not happened yet, even though I talked to Van's about it,
as I'm sure others have.
You just have to get some clearance there. It would help to raise the canopy very
slightly above the front skin, and then leave about a 1/16 gap between the
skins.
Unfortunately this doesn't help you now.
I fixed mine to where it works and looks fine, but it was frustrating. Just carefully
file the front of the canopy skin back a little at a time, and keep checking
the fit. You can also carefully form the lip of the canopy skin upwards
a bit by rubbing (burnishing) with a big dowel.
The other lister's suggestion to put a thin rubber strip under the lip sounds like
a very good option. That should at the very least reduce the amount of gap
required.
Beware, also, that if you do not have the front fusealge skin fully clecoed in
place, the canopy will twist and move around when you open it. I put off riveting
the front skin as long as possible for access to the wiring, etc, and found
my latches would hang up if the front skin was not clecoed down all over.
---
---
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cowling issues |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Epoxy stays put pretty well until you heat it hotter than the last time you formed
it..
Gary
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I don't know how epoxy cowls behave after re-shaping with application of
heat, but I can attest to the fact that polyester cowls (like mine) can be
shaped nicely to fix the discontinuities around the air inlets. It looked
great before a Carib vacation hiatus of three weeks, but when I got back
to
work, there was my cowl just as bad as before the work I did on it!! That
stuff has a memory and goes back to its original molding contour! So back
to
the cut, fill, grind and sand routine!
Cheers!! ------Henry Hore
---
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|