Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Jerry Springer)
2. 05:40 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Larry Bowen)
3. 06:22 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Patrick Kelley)
4. 06:25 AM - Re: First Flight (Richard Dudley)
5. 06:50 AM - Re: 6A/8A Tow Bar... (Richard Dudley)
6. 06:53 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Bill Dube)
7. 06:55 AM - Re: 6A/8A Tow Bar... (Bill VonDane)
8. 07:03 AM - >Re:Drilling Lightening Holes (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
9. 07:11 AM - Re: First Flight (Rob Miller)
10. 07:12 AM - Anywhere map GPS sold allready! (Al Grajek)
11. 07:15 AM - Re: First Flight (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
12. 07:32 AM - Thanks to all! (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
13. 07:36 AM - canopy frame (Bert Forero)
14. 07:40 AM - Re: First Flight (Larry Hawkins)
15. 07:46 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Elsa & Henry)
16. 07:55 AM - Re: canopy frame (Denis Walsh)
17. 07:58 AM - Re: Thanks to all! (Dwight Frye)
18. 08:06 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Rick Galati)
19. 08:15 AM - Aligning trailing edge (Ronschreck99@aol.com)
20. 08:22 AM - moisture drains and mylar tape (lucky macy)
21. 08:30 AM - RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts (Mark Antenbring)
22. 08:36 AM - Re: Aligning trailing edge (Neil McLeod)
23. 08:50 AM - Fw: First Flight (C. Rabaut)
24. 08:51 AM - Fw: Thanks to all! (C. Rabaut)
25. 08:59 AM - Re: 6A/8A Tow Bar... (Shemp)
26. 09:11 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Elsa & Henry)
27. 09:21 AM - Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts (Jim Jewell)
28. 09:22 AM - flop tube, after the fact (Shemp)
29. 09:50 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Wier, Daniel C.)
30. 09:54 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes ()
31. 10:03 AM - Re: Lycoming Flywheel Orientation (HCRV6@aol.com)
32. 10:10 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (HCRV6@aol.com)
33. 10:21 AM - Fw: flop tube, after the fact (C. Rabaut)
34. 10:22 AM - Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts (HCRV6@aol.com)
35. 10:32 AM - Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts (Phil Birkelbach)
36. 10:37 AM - Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts (Elsa & Henry)
37. 10:43 AM - Re: flop tube, after the fact (Phil Birkelbach)
38. 11:08 AM - Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts (Neil McLeod)
39. 11:19 AM - Re: flop tube, after the fact (Scott Brumbelow)
40. 11:30 AM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Patrick Kelley)
41. 11:48 AM - Re: Aligning trailing edge (Randy Lervold)
42. 12:28 PM - Re: Spam? (Jan)
43. 12:36 PM - Re: Aligning trailing edge (Jack Blomgren)
44. 12:59 PM - Re: Aligning trailing edge (Elsa & Henry)
45. 01:57 PM - Re: Aligning trailing edge (Jim Norman)
46. 03:43 PM - Re: Lycoming Flywheel Orientation (John H. Wiegenstein)
47. 03:57 PM - Re: Drilling lightening holes ()
48. 04:02 PM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Dana Overall)
49. 04:16 PM - Re: Spam? (John Starn)
50. 04:30 PM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (EM Morgan)
51. 04:34 PM - Re: Aligning trailing edge (Kyle Boatright)
52. 04:35 PM - Re: Lycoming Flywheel Orientation (Kyle Boatright)
53. 04:50 PM - Re: Aligning trailing edge (Sam Buchanan)
54. 04:57 PM - Great building tip regarding riveting in enlarged holes (WALTER KERR)
55. 06:05 PM - Re: canopy frame (Jordan Grant)
56. 07:04 PM - Re: Drilling lightening holes (Dana Overall)
57. 07:36 PM - RV6 seat belts for sale (Larygagnon@aol.com)
58. 08:49 PM - dimension comparison: RV-8 and RV-7 (Dan Checkoway)
59. 08:49 PM - Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab (Karie Daniel)
60. 08:50 PM - [ Scott Van Artsdalen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
61. 09:12 PM - Re: Drilling lightening holes ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
I used a fly cutter, some people do not like to use them because they
think they are dangerous. Just makes sure the part is clamped down and
keep fingers out of the way.
Jerry
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling one
hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on the slowest
speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should probably be drilled
slower, but no luck with the current drill press. Any good advice?? At this
rate, I think there will only be one lightening hole...
>
> THanks,
> Scott
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
How about a hole saw? I don't like the circle cutter either......
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003: The Year of Flight!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling
> one hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on
> the slowest speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should
> probably be drilled slower, but no luck with the current drill press.
> Any good advice?? At this rate, I think there will only be one
> lightening hole...
>
> THanks,
> Scott
Message 3
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| Subject: | Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
On my early pre-pre-punch tail kit and my (one of the first) pre-punch
wing kit for my -6A, I had to drill a lot of lightening holes. I don't
recall any in material larger that .040", and the only hole I needed to
cut in the VS doubler (bottom of the 'fork') was done with a unibit. On
the thinner material, a fly cutter takes seconds to finish the hole,
though I think my small drill press would bog down on thicker material.
If you must make large-diameter holes in thick stock, I think I would
recommend a router or getting it milled. I just looked at my preview
plans for the -7A and see no callout or recommendation for lightening
holes in the VS rear spar or doubler. Since there was recently a thread
on the list concerning a crash involving loss of the VS, you may want to
reconsider re-engineering this part.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Seat ribs being fitted to fuselage structure...
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling
one hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on
the slowest speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should
probably be drilled slower, but no luck with the current drill press.
Any good advice?? At this rate, I think there will only be one
lightening hole...
THanks,
Scott
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Congratulations, Scott!!!
Great accomplishment!!
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Van Artsdalen, Scott wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
> I have been looking forward to this day for 5 years, 1 month, 3 weeks, and
> 2 days. RV-4 N311SV finally took to the skies on Sunday, February 9th at
> 1530 PST!
>
> Here's the pertinent info for those of you who don't like stories:
>
> Take off run: I don't know, pretty short. I'd estimate about 500'
>
> Climb Rate: I don't know. Brisk.
>
> Control Response: VERY heavy right wing. Estimate about 10 lbs of force to
> hold against the right rolling tendancy. Probably from readjusting my right
> flap per my mechanic's instructions. I'm going to put it back where I
> thought it should be.
>
> Indicated Airspeed at 3500 MSL: 140kts. I'll take my GPS up with me next
> time and do the 4 direction runs to get a better idea.
>
> Feeling: Indescribable.
>
> For those who *do* like stories.....
>
> It started out like any other Sunday: get up go to church, tell people, "No,
> I haven't flown it yet. I don't know when I'll fly it. Soon." To answer
> all the questions. I told my pastor that the plane was ready to fly and
> that I would appreciate a prayer or two beforehand. So he came out to O27
> at about 1430. He had restored a motorcycle and was very much impressed
> that I built an airplane. We spent some time ooh-ing and ah-ing over it and
> two other RVs that were being worked on by EAA Chapter 90. My wife and
> kids showed up just in time for the prayer. I told them that I was just
> going to top off the tanks and would probably fly it this Friday when there
> wasn't a crowd around. I was feeling very nervous at this point. Sure I
> had been looking forward to this moment for 5 years but now that it was
> finally here ... well ... to quote a friend who recently flew his RV-8, "I
> felt like a dead man walking out to the gallows."
>
> I filled up the tanks and then confided in my wife that I was going to go.
> I hopped in, taxied out, and performed my runup. Everything still looked
> good. Damn! I was going to have to fly it. I called on the radio:
> "Attention Oakdale area traffic. N311SV departing runway two eight, first
> flight." Another RV-builder and friend made a mad dash to his car to grab
> his digital camera. And then sprinted halfway down the runway to get some
> pics.
>
> I slowly advanced the throttle to full power. Acceleration felt good. I
> felt the tail come up. Still good. A little rudder work to keep her on the
> centerline. Ease back on the stick and - SHE'S FLYING! SHE'S FLYING TO
> THE RIGHT!! OH MAN! SHE'S REALLY PULLING TO THE RIGHT HARD!!! But landing
> on the 3000 foot runway wasn't an option as I was already about 500' up. I
> still cannot believe how fast these things climb! All other control inputs
> felt normal and response was normal. I elected to continue the flight. I
> looked at the instruments once to see what my airspeed was and saw that I
> was at 1500 feet. I looked at the ground and it appeared I was much higher
> than that so I checked my altimeter again, now I was at 2100 feet! These
> things really climb!
>
> I leveled off at 3500 feet and tried to recall Van's words, "The airplane is
> flying. No just sit back and try to relax."
>
> After about 10 minutes I slowed to 85 mph and tried a few turns. By the
> way, if you're not used to flying slippery planes, these things do not slow
> down like your garden variety Cessna. I know, I know, the guys that have
> been flying RV's for a while will say they slow down just fine and I will
> probably find that to be true. But for a low-time RV pilot like me it just
> wanted to keep going and going! This is where I experienced the only other
> major squawk with the plane. At around 1600 RPM I started to notice an
> oscillation in the front of the plane. Like an out of balance tire feels.
> If I reduced RPMs the oscillation went away, if I increased it went away.
> It seemed to occur right in the 1400 - 1600 RPM range. I'm turning a Catto
> prop. My gut feeling is that it's the spinner. I'm going to readjust it.
>
> I throttled back and bit and pointed her downhill and towards the airport.
> I gave myself plenty of room on the 45 and downwind to slow down even
> further. It's amazing how much you have to throttle back on the down wind
> to get slowed down. I felt like I was almost chopping the power. It's just
> after the speed and acceleration I just experienced it seemed really slow!
> Anyway, I came in a little fast and floated quite a bit. I touched down
> about mid-field and made a beautiful greaser! Heavy stick and all! I then
> taxied down to the Chapter 90 hangar and enjoyed the camaraderie of a bunch
> of great guys! I never felt so good as when I shut that engine down right
> in front of the EAA hangar. It was an amazing feeling!
>
> We unfortunately didn't capture the RV grin but I will post a few pictures
> on the Photo share.
>
> I have been waiting 5 years to say this:
>
> KEEP POUNDING THOSE RIVITS! YOU'RE GOING TO LOVE THIS AIRPLANE!!!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> Network Manager
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
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> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>I have been looking forward to this day for 5 years<span
> classGramE>, 1 month,<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> 3 weeks, and 2 days. <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>RV-4 N311SV finally took to the skies on
> Sunday, February 9<sup>th</sup> at 1530 PST!<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Here's the pertinent info for those of you who don't
> like stories: <o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Take off run: I
> don't know, pretty short. I'd
> estimate about 500'<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Climb Rate: I don't know.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> Brisk.<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Control Response:
> VERY heavy right wing. Estimate about 10 lbs of force to hold against
> the right rolling tendancy. Probably
> from readjusting my right flap per my mechanic's instructions. <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>I'm going to put it back where I
> thought it should be.<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>Indicated Airspeed at 3500 MSL:
> 140kts.<span style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial'> I'll
> take my GPS up with me next time and do the 4 direction runs to get a better
> idea.<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Feeling: Indescribable.<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>For those who *do*
> like stories.....<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>It started out like any other Sunday: get up go to <span
> classGramE>church, tell people, "No, I haven't flown it
> yet. I don't know when I'll
> fly it. Soon."<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> To answer all the
> questions. I told my pastor
> that the plane was ready to fly and that I would appreciate a prayer or two
> beforehand. So he came out to O27
> at about 1430. He had
> restored a motorcycle and was very much impressed that I built an airplane. <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>We spent some time ooh-<span
> classSpellE>ing and ah-ing over it and two
> other RVs that were being worked on by EAA Chapter 90.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>My wife and kids showed up just in time
> for the prayer. I told them that I
> was just going to top off the tanks and would probably fly it this Friday when
> there wasn't a crowd around.
> I was feeling very nervous at this point.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> Sure I had been looking forward to this
> moment for 5 years but now that it was finally here ... well ... to
> quote a friend who recently flew his RV-8, "I felt like a dead man
> walking out to the gallows."<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>I filled up the tanks and then confided in my wife that I
> was going to go. I hopped in,
> taxied out, and performed my runup.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> Everything still looked good.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> Damn! <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>I was going to have to fly it.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> I called on the radio: "Attention
> Oakdale area traffic. N311SV departing
> runway two eight, first flight."
> Another RV-builder and friend made a mad dash to his car to grab his
> digital camera. And
> then sprinted halfway down the runway to get some pics.<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>I slowly advanced the throttle to full power.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> Acceleration felt good.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> I felt the tail come up.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> Still good.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> A little rudder work to keep her on the
> centerline. Ease back on the stick
> and - SHE'S FLYING!
> SHE'S FLYING TO THE RIGHT!!
> OH MAN! SHE'S REALLY
> PULLING TO THE RIGHT HARD!!! But
> landing on the 3000 foot runway wasn't an option as I was already about
> 500' up. I still cannot
> believe how fast these things climb!
> All other control inputs felt normal and response was normal.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> I elected to continue the flight.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> I looked at the instruments once to see
> what my airspeed was and saw that I was at 1500 feet. <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>I looked at the ground and it appeared I
> was much higher than that so I checked my altimeter again, now I was at 2100
> feet! These things really climb! <o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>I leveled off at 3500 feet and tried to recall Van's
> words, "The airplane is flying. <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>No just sit back and try to relax."<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>After about 10 minutes I slowed to 85 mph and tried a few
> turns. By the way, if you're
> not used to flying slippery planes, these things do not slow down like your
> garden variety Cessna. I know, I
> know, the guys that have been flying RV's for a while will say they slow
> down just fine and I will probably find that to be true. <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>But for a low-time RV pilot like me it
> just wanted to keep going and going! <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>This is where I experienced the
> only other major squawk with the plane. <span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'>At around 1600 RPM I started to notice an
> oscillation in the front of the plane.
> Like an out of balance tire feels.
> If I reduced RPMs the oscillation went away,
> if I increased it went away. It
> seemed to occur right in the 1400 - 1600 RPM range.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> I'm turning a Catto
> prop. My gut feeling is that
> it's the spinner. I'm
> going to readjust it.<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>I throttled back and bit and pointed her downhill and
> towards the airport. I gave myself
> plenty of room on the 45 and downwind to slow down even further.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> It's amazing how much you have to throttle
> back on the down wind to get slowed down.
> I felt like I was almost chopping the power.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> It's just after the speed and
> acceleration I just experienced it seemed really slow!<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> Anyway, I came in a little fast and
> floated quite a bit. I touched down
> about mid-field and made a beautiful greaser!<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> Heavy stick and all!<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> I then taxied down to the Chapter 90
> hangar and enjoyed the camaraderie of a bunch of great guys!<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> I never felt so
> good as when I shut that engine down right in front of the EAA hangar.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> It was an amazing feeling!<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>We unfortunately didn't capture the RV grin but I will
> post a few pictures on the Photo share.<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>I have been waiting 5 years to say this:<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>KEEP POUNDING THOSE RIVITS!<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> YOU'RE GOING TO LOVE THIS
> AIRPLANE!!!<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'>--<span style'mso-no-proof:
> yes'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <st1:PersonName><font size3 colornavy
> faceArial><span style'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy;
> mso-no-proof:yes'>Scott VanArtsdalen</st1:PersonName><span
> style'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>Network Manager<span
> style'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>Union Safe Deposit Bank<span
> style'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>209-946-5116<o:p></o:p>
>
> <span style'font-size:
> 12.0pt'><o:p></o:p>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 6A/8A Tow Bar... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
John,
I must have missed the thread on tow bars. I am very interested in any
information, including pictures or drawings of tow bars suitable for
RV-6As. It is a problem that I have yet to solve.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
John wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <jtb1@prodigy.net>
>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 6A Tow Bar...
>
> Carl,
> I received the pictures of the tow bar. That is pretty ingenious and
> looks simple to make. | am definitely going to make one and also pass the
> info along to fellow RV-6A and RV-8A owner and builder here at my home
> airport, (Twin Lakes Airpark S-17) here in SC.
>
> Thanks again,
> Jack Bombard
> RV-8A builder (working om wings)
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 09:42 PM 2/10/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
>Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling
>one hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on
>the slowest speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should
>probably be drilled slower, but no luck with the current drill press. Any
>good advice?? At this rate, I think there will only be one lightening hole...
Cut the hole you want in a Masonite template. Smooth the inside
edge. Clamp the template to the part. Chuck up a carbide "flush trim" bit
in your router and have at it.
Use a small diameter bit to keep the surface feet per minute
within reason. To get the smoothest cut, and to make the bit last, slow
down the router a tad. A 1/4" carbide bit calls for 16,000 rpm or less to
keep the SFPM below 1100. This is about 1/2 speed (medium) on a typical
router. Probably easier and more controlled with a router table than
hand-held. Practice on a scrap or two before cutting a "real" part. Wear
gloves, safety glasses, and ear plugs . :-)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 6A/8A Tow Bar... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Can someone please post the pictures on the net so we can all see? Or I can
post them if someone will send them to me...
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 87 hours
www.vondane.com
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <jtb1@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A/8A Tow Bar...
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <jtb1@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: 6A Tow Bar...
Carl,
I received the pictures of the tow bar. That is pretty ingenious and
looks simple to make. | am definitely going to make one and also pass the
info along to fellow RV-6A and RV-8A owner and builder here at my home
airport, (Twin Lakes Airpark S-17) here in SC.
Thanks again,
Jack Bombard
RV-8A builder (working om wings)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:Drilling Lightening Holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I have always used a fly cutter for these holes . I have a large and small
one.
I have a foot switch for my drill press . This faciliates using BOTH hands to
hold the work , and if it jams I don't have to wait for someone to come find
me ! If I didn't have a commercial foot switch , I would certainly build one
!!!
I ave built two RV-4's this way ( NO pre-punch there )
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
U DA MAN!!!! Congrats Scott on a job well done!
Test flying an airplane requires some major stones. Enjoy the fruits and
vegetables of your labor, you've earned it.
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM 47 hours
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
> <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
>
> I have been looking forward to this day for 5 years, 1 month, 3 weeks,
> and
> 2 days. RV-4 N311SV finally took to the skies on Sunday, February 9th
> at
> 1530 PST!
>
> Here's the pertinent info for those of you who don't like stories:
>
> Take off run: I don't know, pretty short. I'd estimate about 500'
>
> Climb Rate: I don't know. Brisk.
>
> Control Response: VERY heavy right wing. Estimate about 10 lbs of force
> to
> hold against the right rolling tendancy. Probably from readjusting my
> right
> flap per my mechanic's instructions. I'm going to put it back where I
> thought it should be.
>
> Indicated Airspeed at 3500 MSL: 140kts. I'll take my GPS up with me
> next
> time and do the 4 direction runs to get a better idea.
>
> Feeling: Indescribable.
>
> For those who *do* like stories.....
>
> It started out like any other Sunday: get up go to church, tell people,
> "No,
> I haven't flown it yet. I don't know when I'll fly it. Soon." To
> answer
> all the questions. I told my pastor that the plane was ready to fly and
> that I would appreciate a prayer or two beforehand. So he came out to
> O27
> at about 1430. He had restored a motorcycle and was very much
> impressed
> that I built an airplane. We spent some time ooh-ing and ah-ing over it
> and
> two other RVs that were being worked on by EAA Chapter 90. My wife and
> kids showed up just in time for the prayer. I told them that I was just
> going to top off the tanks and would probably fly it this Friday when
> there
> wasn't a crowd around. I was feeling very nervous at this point. Sure
> I
> had been looking forward to this moment for 5 years but now that it was
> finally here ... well ... to quote a friend who recently flew his RV-8,
> "I
> felt like a dead man walking out to the gallows."
>
> I filled up the tanks and then confided in my wife that I was going to
> go.
> I hopped in, taxied out, and performed my runup. Everything still
> looked
> good. Damn! I was going to have to fly it. I called on the radio:
> "Attention Oakdale area traffic. N311SV departing runway two eight,
> first
> flight." Another RV-builder and friend made a mad dash to his car to
> grab
> his digital camera. And then sprinted halfway down the runway to get
> some
> pics.
>
> I slowly advanced the throttle to full power. Acceleration felt good.
> I
> felt the tail come up. Still good. A little rudder work to keep her on
> the
> centerline. Ease back on the stick and - SHE'S FLYING! SHE'S FLYING
> TO
> THE RIGHT!! OH MAN! SHE'S REALLY PULLING TO THE RIGHT HARD!!! But
> landing
> on the 3000 foot runway wasn't an option as I was already about 500' up.
> I
> still cannot believe how fast these things climb! All other control
> inputs
> felt normal and response was normal. I elected to continue the flight.
> I
> looked at the instruments once to see what my airspeed was and saw that
> I
> was at 1500 feet. I looked at the ground and it appeared I was much
> higher
> than that so I checked my altimeter again, now I was at 2100 feet!
> These
> things really climb!
>
> I leveled off at 3500 feet and tried to recall Van's words, "The
> airplane is
> flying. No just sit back and try to relax."
>
> After about 10 minutes I slowed to 85 mph and tried a few turns. By the
> way, if you're not used to flying slippery planes, these things do not
> slow
> down like your garden variety Cessna. I know, I know, the guys that
> have
> been flying RV's for a while will say they slow down just fine and I
> will
> probably find that to be true. But for a low-time RV pilot like me it
> just
> wanted to keep going and going! This is where I experienced the only
> other
> major squawk with the plane. At around 1600 RPM I started to notice an
> oscillation in the front of the plane. Like an out of balance tire
> feels.
> If I reduced RPMs the oscillation went away, if I increased it went
> away.
> It seemed to occur right in the 1400 - 1600 RPM range. I'm turning a
> Catto
> prop. My gut feeling is that it's the spinner. I'm going to readjust
> it.
>
> I throttled back and bit and pointed her downhill and towards the
> airport.
> I gave myself plenty of room on the 45 and downwind to slow down even
> further. It's amazing how much you have to throttle back on the down
> wind
> to get slowed down. I felt like I was almost chopping the power. It's
> just
> after the speed and acceleration I just experienced it seemed really
> slow!
> Anyway, I came in a little fast and floated quite a bit. I touched down
> about mid-field and made a beautiful greaser! Heavy stick and all! I
> then
> taxied down to the Chapter 90 hangar and enjoyed the camaraderie of a
> bunch
> of great guys! I never felt so good as when I shut that engine down
> right
> in front of the EAA hangar. It was an amazing feeling!
>
> We unfortunately didn't capture the RV grin but I will post a few
> pictures
> on the Photo share.
>
> I have been waiting 5 years to say this:
>
> KEEP POUNDING THOSE RIVITS! YOU'RE GOING TO LOVE THIS AIRPLANE!!!
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> Network Manager
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
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=== message truncated ===
Message 10
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vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Anywhere map GPS sold allready! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
My GPS is sold. If the sale falls through ( I have not received money yet),
I will re list. Thanks to all.
AL Grajek
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
I will be there! Crappy plane and all!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: David Aronson [mailto:aronsond@pacbell.net]
Subject: RE: RV-List: First Flight
--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Scott:
Great going. I am just about there. A lot of little stuff but will be
a Osh Gosh this year. See you there?
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
<crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Scott,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list@matronics.com'" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 11:13:12 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
><svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
>
>I have been looking forward to this day for 5 years, 1 month, 3
weeks,
>and
>2 days. RV-4 N311SV finally took to the skies on Sunday, February 9th
at
>1530 PST!
>
>
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Many thanks to all who sent their congratulations! I need to also thank the
following:
Dennis Baily (RV-6A in construction) for using his low-boy to haul my plane
out to the field and basically just encouraging me.
(the other) Rob Miller (RV-8 flying) for fiberglass tips, loaning me tools
and parts, stirring up the list, and for not passing his bad luck on to me.
Kevin Haselbacher (RV-7 in construction) for sprinting to his car and
halfway back down the runway to take pictures of my first flight even after
I told everyone that I wasn't going to fly that day.
Willis Ramsdel (RV-4 in construction) for crawling down the fuselage to buck
rivets where I couldn't fit and my wife wouldn't go.
And of course the RV-List which has provided me with lots of advice!
So you can see that *I* didn't build an airplane but a very large team did.
It would have been next to impossible without all the help and I am grateful
to all!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
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<body langEN-US linkblue vlinkpurple style'tab-interval:.5in'>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Many thanks to all who sent their congratulations!<span
style'mso-spacerun:yes'> I need to also thank the following:<o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Dennis Baily (RV-6A in
construction) for using his low-boy to haul my plane out to the field and
basically just encouraging me.<o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>(the other) Rob
Miller (RV-8 flying) for fiberglass tips, loaning me tools and parts, stirring
up the list, and for not passing his bad luck on to me.<o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Kevin Haselbacher (RV-7 in
construction) for sprinting to his car and halfway back down the runway to take
pictures of my first flight even after I told everyone that I wasn't
going to fly that day. <o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Willis Ramsdel (RV-4 in
construction) for crawling down the fuselage to buck rivets where I couldn't
fit and my wife wouldn't go.<o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>And of course the RV-List which has provided me with lots of
advice!<o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>So you can see that *I*
didn't build an airplane but a very large team did.<span
style'mso-spacerun:yes'> It would have been next to impossible
without all the help and I am grateful to all!<o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'>--<span style'mso-no-proof:
yes'><o:p></o:p>
<st1:PersonName><font size3 colornavy
faceArial><span style'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy;
mso-no-proof:yes'>Scott VanArtsdalen</st1:PersonName><span
style'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>Network Manager<span
style'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>Union Safe Deposit Bank<span
style'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>209-946-5116<o:p></o:p>
<span style'font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p></o:p>
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hello:
Finally I have the sides of canopy frame, for
rv6a, to fit correctly.
Now the problem I have is that the top center
bar, is too high at the rear- end...
It is a heavy tube, any one have had this problem
if so hoe is solved?
The instructions call for the aft end, to be
at least even with fuselage skin. I am about 2"
above skin, when canopy is fully closed.
I have moved the center track, as much as I can..
to lower the frame...
Suggestions?
Thanks
Bert
rv6A
Do Not Archive
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Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
What crappy plane? Bring your -4.
-----Original Message-----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott [mailto:svanarts@unionsafe.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: First Flight
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
<svanarts@unionsafe.com>
I will be there! Crappy plane and all!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: David Aronson [mailto:aronsond@pacbell.net]
Subject: RE: RV-List: First Flight
--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Scott:
Great going. I am just about there. A lot of little stuff but will be
a Osh Gosh this year. See you there?
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
<crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Scott,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list@matronics.com'" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 11:13:12 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
><svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
>
>I have been looking forward to this day for 5 years, 1 month, 3
weeks,
>and
>2 days. RV-4 N311SV finally took to the skies on Sunday, February 9th
at
>1530 PST!
>
>
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RE: RV-List: First Flight
What crappy plane? Bring your -4.
-----Original Message-----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott [<A HREF"mailto:svanarts@unionsafe.com">mailto:svanarts@unionsafe.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: First Flight
-- RV-List message posted by: Van Artsdalen, Scott svanarts@unionsafe.com
I will be there! Crappy plane and all!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: David Aronson [<A HREF"mailto:aronsond@pacbell.net">mailto:aronsond@pacbell.net]
Subject: RE: RV-List: First Flight
-- RV-List message posted by: David Aronson aronsond@pacbell.net
Scott:
Great going. I am just about there. A lot of little stuff but will be
a Osh Gosh this year. See you there?
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[<A HREF"mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com">mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight
-- RV-List message posted by: Charles Rowbotham
crowbotham@hotmail.com
Scott,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott svanarts@unionsafe.com
Subject: RV-List: First Flight
-- RV-List message posted by: Van Artsdalen, Scott
svanarts@unionsafe.com
I have been looking forward to this day for 5 years, 1 month, 3
weeks,
and
2 days. RV-4 N311SV finally took to the skies on Sunday, February 9th
at
1530 PST!
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
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any further disclosure, use, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. If you think you have received
this e-mail message in error, please e-mail the sender at the above address
and permanently delete the e-mail. Although this e-mail and any attachments
are believed to be free of any virus or other defect that might affect any
computer system into which they are received and opened, it is the responsibility
of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free and no responsibility
is accepted by Giant Industries, Inc. or its affiliates for any loss or damage
arising in any way from their use.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
A great tool to have for reducing drill RPM 7/1 is a Supreme "Versamatic"
That's what I used for all my fly-cutter hole making. It's a cylindrical
device about 2 1/2" diameter by 3 1/8" long with a 1/4" dia. drive shaft
(input) and an in-line No. 33 taper output shaft, to which a standard 1/2"
#33 taper chuck can be installed. The speed reduction is accomplished by a
set of planetary gears inside the cylinder. The output shaft can be
pulled-out to reverse the drive
The cylindrical housing is split in two, grasping the front half reduces
the speed of the output shaft 7/1 and with the output shaft pulled out and
grasping the front housing, the drive is reversed.
I bought mine in 1965 for carpentry work, great for driving or removing
screws with a drill motor.
Trouble is, I haven't seen them around in tool shops these days and don't
know if the supplier still exists: Supreme Products Corporation, A
Subsidiary of The Ridge Tool Company, Elyra, Ohio.
To use it on a drill press, a strip of wood must be clamped to the front
housing (I used a 90 bracket screwed to the wood strip, with a hose-clamp
attaching it to the front housing) and the other end attached loosely to the
drill-press post. If you can obtain one, you'll love it!
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hello:
>
> Finally I have the sides of canopy frame, for
> rv6a, to fit correctly.
>
> Now the problem I have is that the top center
> bar, is too high at the rear- end...
> It is a heavy tube, any one have had this problem
> if so hoe is solved?
>
> The instructions call for the aft end, to be
> at least even with fuselage skin. I am about 2"
> above skin, when canopy is fully closed.
>
> I have moved the center track, as much as I can..
> to lower the frame...
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6A
>
>
Bert,
Assuming you have a slider, The fix is to shim the roll bar so that it tips
aft a hair. This will lower the rear of the canopy.
Denis
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Thanks to all! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
On Tue Feb 11 10:29:10 2003, Van Artsdalen, Scott wrote :
>[ ... snip ... ]
>So you can see that *I* didn't build an airplane but a very large team did.
>It would have been next to impossible without all the help and I am grateful
>to all!
To steal (and change) a line :
"It takes a community to raise an airplane."
Congrats Scott!
I'll be flying too in just a few .. well .. umm .. err ..
ummm .. eventually, I hope. :)
-- Dwight (RV-7A, Wings)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Bill,
I hope you were exaggerating when you said it took 45 minutes to produce
one hole. A properly set up
fly cutter in a drill press will generate holes very fast. Just make
sure to use the slowest speed, 250 RPM
works for me and use cutting fluid, make sure the piece is clamped
down, your hands well out of the way.
Without seeing what you are doing, it is difficult to envision what
is happening in your case. But if it is
taking you so long, clearly something is amiss. BTW, I bought a fancy
instrument knock out punch and
in the end was not happy with the holes it produced, many of which required
minor filing and rework
to insure a proper fit. Instruments might be standard, but minor
variations in diameter do occur between
manufacturers. I used the fly cutter to cut in the instrument
holes with much greater precision (always
proving the diameter on scrap material first) than the shear cut
generated with the knock out punch.
Rick Galati
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Subject:
Re: Drilling lightening
holes
From:
Bill Dube (bdube@boulder.nist.gov )
Date:
Tue Feb 11 - 6:53
AM
-- RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube bdube@boulder.nist.gov
At 09:42 PM 2/10/2003, you wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: "" tx_jayhawk@excite.com
Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling
one hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on
the slowest speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should
probably be drilled slower, but no luck with the current drill press. Any
good advice?? At this rate, I think there will only be one lightening hole...
Message 19
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| Subject: | Aligning trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ronschreck99@aol.com
>>>I did not follow the advice in the building manual which said to use
the wing airfoil template to set the neutral positions-Nix! I didn't like
the fit of it despite cutting it out very carefully from the cover of the
wing crate. The fiberglass wing-tips looked pretty good to me, as they
followed the skin curvature perfectly, so I first set the outboard end of
one of the ailerons to line-up with wing-tip in the neutral position,
clamped it there and then set the other aileron the same way. I then set the
flap linkages to align their outboard ends with the aileron inboard ends.
Thus a straight trailing-edge line right through in the neutral position.
Cheers!! ---Henry Hore--RV6-A C-GELS, Cornwall, Ontario<<<
A question to Henry and others: How does the wing tip line up. I have
completed the wings, flaps and ailerons but am considering waiting until I
get all the above mounted to the fuselage to mount the tips. It seems to me,
however that there will be little if any adjustment available to align the
tip with the outboard tip of the aileron. For those who have gone before,
can the tip be adjusted or am I stuck with what I got?
Ron Schreck
RV-8, Charlotte NC
Message 20
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| Subject: | moisture drains and mylar tape |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Howdy,
I read or heard a couple of ideas lately and want to bounce them off the
list.
1) drill a small hole (3/16th inch?) at the low spot of each wing bay. For
example, on an 8 that could be near the forward face of rear spar on the
bottom wing skins. I guess you could do the same for aileron/flaps.
Similar for the fuse. The holes allow some air circulation to promote
evaporation and allow collected moisture to drain. At first I was worried
about structural integrity but we drill small holes in the wing skins
without filling them. The pitot tube hole comes to mind.
2) put thin mylar tape between dissimilar metals (ie, between steel and
aluminum). It was suggested mylar tape from a drafting supply place was
perfect for this job.
Any A&Ps verify this practice?
thanks,
lucky
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Antenbring <mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
Listers,
The plans say to fabricate a shim (R-710 I think), and 2 strips that go on
the bottom edge of the rudder to attach the fairing. They say to use .032"
alclad. Ok, the small stack of extra aluminium that came with the kit
doesn't have the size stamped on it except for the thickest (.040"). I'm
assuming the next size down is .032" -- is that right? Also, when I use tin
snips to cut these, it curls the metal, and is not doing a nice job. I'm
thinking of buying a band saw, but not if this is the only time I'm going to
use it. Is there many other times in the building of the kit where a band
saw is necessary?
Regards,
Mark
Do not archive
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aligning trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
I found there was a lot of adjustment available when mounting the the tips,
at least on the new "sheared" tips
Neil
7 QB (canopy)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ronschreck99@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aligning trailing edge
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ronschreck99@aol.com
>
> >>>I did not follow the advice in the building manual which said to use
> the wing airfoil template to set the neutral positions-Nix! I didn't like
> the fit of it despite cutting it out very carefully from the cover of the
> wing crate. The fiberglass wing-tips looked pretty good to me, as they
> followed the skin curvature perfectly, so I first set the outboard end of
> one of the ailerons to line-up with wing-tip in the neutral position,
> clamped it there and then set the other aileron the same way. I then set
the
> flap linkages to align their outboard ends with the aileron inboard ends.
> Thus a straight trailing-edge line right through in the neutral position.
>
> Cheers!! ---Henry Hore--RV6-A C-GELS, Cornwall, Ontario<<<
>
> A question to Henry and others: How does the wing tip line up. I have
> completed the wings, flaps and ailerons but am considering waiting until I
> get all the above mounted to the fuselage to mount the tips. It seems to
me,
> however that there will be little if any adjustment available to align the
> tip with the outboard tip of the aileron. For those who have gone before,
> can the tip be adjusted or am I stuck with what I got?
>
> Ron Schreck
> RV-8, Charlotte NC
>
>
Message 23
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Scott,
Never bad mouth your plane... she might her you!
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: First Flight
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
<svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
> I will be there! Crappy plane and all!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> Network Manager
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Aronson [mailto:aronsond@pacbell.net]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: First Flight
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
>
> Scott:
> Great going. I am just about there. A lot of little stuff but will be
> a Osh Gosh this year. See you there?
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
> Rowbotham
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
> <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Scott,
>
> CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
>
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: "'rv-list@matronics.com'" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: First Flight
> >Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 11:13:12 -0800
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
> ><svanarts@unionsafe.com>
> >
> >
> >I have been looking forward to this day for 5 years, 1 month, 3
> weeks,
> >and
> >2 days. RV-4 N311SV finally took to the skies on Sunday, February 9th
> at
> >1530 PST!
> >
> >
>
>
> ---
> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Very nicely put Scott.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV-List: Thanks to all!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
<svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
> Many thanks to all who sent their congratulations! I need to also thank
the
> following:
>
> Dennis Baily (RV-6A in construction) for using his low-boy to haul my
plane
> out to the field and basically just encouraging me.
> (the other) Rob Miller (RV-8 flying) for fiberglass tips, loaning me tools
> and parts, stirring up the list, and for not passing his bad luck on to
me.
> Kevin Haselbacher (RV-7 in construction) for sprinting to his car and
> halfway back down the runway to take pictures of my first flight even
after
> I told everyone that I wasn't going to fly that day.
> Willis Ramsdel (RV-4 in construction) for crawling down the fuselage to
buck
> rivets where I couldn't fit and my wife wouldn't go.
>
> And of course the RV-List which has provided me with lots of advice!
>
> So you can see that *I* didn't build an airplane but a very large team
did.
> It would have been next to impossible without all the help and I am
grateful
> to all!
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> Network Manager
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
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>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Many thanks to all who sent their congratulations!<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> I need to also thank the following:<o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Dennis Baily (RV-6A in
> construction) for using his low-boy to haul my plane out to the field and
> basically just encouraging me.<o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>(the other) Rob
> Miller (RV-8 flying) for fiberglass tips, loaning me tools and parts,
stirring
> up the list, and for not passing his bad luck on to me.<o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Kevin Haselbacher (RV-7 in
> construction) for sprinting to his car and halfway back down the runway to
take
> pictures of my first flight even after I told everyone that I wasn't
> going to fly that day. <o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Willis Ramsdel (RV-4 in
> construction) for crawling down the fuselage to buck rivets where I
couldn't
> fit and my wife wouldn't go.<o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>And of course the RV-List which has provided me with
lots of
> advice!<o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>So you can see that *I*
> didn't build an airplane but a very large team did.<span
> style'mso-spacerun:yes'> It would have been next to impossible
> without all the help and I am grateful to all!<o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'>--<span style'mso-no-proof:
> yes'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <st1:PersonName><font size3 colornavy
> faceArial><span style'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy;
> mso-no-proof:yes'>Scott VanArtsdalen</st1:PersonName><span
> style'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>Network Manager<span
> style'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>Union Safe Deposit
Bank<span
> style'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
> <span style'font-size:
>
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>209-946-5116<o:p></o:p
>
>
> <span style'font-size:
> 12.0pt'><o:p></o:p>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: 6A/8A Tow Bar... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Did you ever get a picture?
Thanks
Jeff
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Re my previous post extolling the "Versamatic" speed reducer, correction:
For Forward drive, grasp the FRONT housing,(as stated) and for reverse
drive, grasp the REAR housing-------Sorry about that!
Cheers!!----Henry
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Mark,
When cutting sheet material with hand shears always lay out the dimensions
of the piece with a an approximate 1/8", 3/16"or 1/4" (depending on the
material thickness)wastage border on all sides.
Cut the piece with the wastage layout out of the sheet stock. Once it is
freed from the sheet stock cut the wastage off the piece. When cutting the
wastage the shear stresses get transferred to the wastage leaving the
desired part all but straight and ready for edge finishing etc.
At first it might seem to be wasteful and time consuming but the number of
wrecked parts goes down and the finish quality goes up to compensate.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Antenbring" <mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Antenbring
<mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
>
> Listers,
> The plans say to fabricate a shim (R-710 I think), and 2 strips that go on
> the bottom edge of the rudder to attach the fairing. They say to use .032"
> alclad. Ok, the small stack of extra aluminium that came with the kit
> doesn't have the size stamped on it except for the thickest (.040"). I'm
> assuming the next size down is .032" -- is that right? Also, when I use
tin
> snips to cut these, it curls the metal, and is not doing a nice job. I'm
> thinking of buying a band saw, but not if this is the only time I'm going
to
> use it. Is there many other times in the building of the kit where a band
> saw is necessary?
> Regards,
> Mark
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | flop tube, after the fact |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I would like to install flop tubes to my completed fuel tanks. They have already
been sealed and sloshed, twice. Im hoping I dont have to open it all up again.
Any suggestions?
Jeff Dowling
RV6a
Chicago/Louisville
Message 29
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| Subject: | Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel@thegreatwhite.net>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 30
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| Subject: | Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Thanks Patrick. What vintage are your preview plans? My drawing #6 dated 4/9/01
shows 6 optional lightening holes on the VS-808PP.
FWIW, I am using the circle or "fly" cutter in the drill press. The part is very
well clamped with two clamps, and it does not move. I found that it just takes
forever to do...
--- On Tue 02/11, Patrick Kelley < webmaster@flion.com > wrote:
From: Patrick Kelley [mailto: webmaster@flion.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Drilling lightening holes
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
On my early pre-pre-punch tail kit and my (one of the first) pre-punch
wing kit for my -6A, I had to drill a lot of lightening holes. I don't
recall any in material larger that .040", and the only hole I needed to
cut in the VS doubler (bottom of the 'fork') was done with a unibit. On
the thinner material, a fly cutter takes seconds to finish the hole,
though I think my small drill press would bog down on thicker material.
If you must make large-diameter holes in thick stock, I think I would
recommend a router or getting it milled. I just looked at my preview
plans for the -7A and see no callout or recommendation for lightening
holes in the VS rear spar or doubler. Since there was recently a thread
on the list concerning a crash involving loss of the VS, you may want to
reconsider re-engineering this part.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Seat ribs being fitted to fuselage structure...
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling
one hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on
the slowest speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should
probably be drilled slower, but no luck with the current drill press.
Any good advice?? At this rate, I think there will only be one
lightening hole...
THanks,
Scott
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Flywheel Orientation |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/10/03 3:55:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kyle.boatright@adelphia.net writes:
<< One of the lugs on the crank is a different size than the others. There is
a matching hole on the flywheel. The only way your flywheel will fit is by
matching the odd sized lug with the odd sized hole.
>>
Interestingly, that's what I was told in answer to the same question, but on
my new Van's 0-360 A1A the flywheel will go on in either of two different
positions. So I'm interested in the answer to this question also.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/10/03 10:44:30 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tx_jayhawk@excite.com writes:
<< Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling
one hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on the
slowest speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should probably be
drilled slower, but no luck with the current drill press. Any good advice??
At this rate, I think there will only be one lightening hole...
THanks,
Scott >>
Sounds to me as if your circle cutter is dull. Check the tip of the cutting
tool and try sharpening it on a knife sharpening stone. You might also make
sure the pointy side of the cutter is forward. I carelessly put mine in
backwards once.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | flop tube, after the fact |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Jeff,
You asked for suggestions.... DO NOT SLOSH (it caused me no end of
he!!), and you only need to put a flop tube on one tank (you'll never be
butt-side-up that long; even during competition I only burn a few gallons
{but I also run light on fuel to help with the weight/G issues}).
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Shemp <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: flop tube, after the fact
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> I would like to install flop tubes to my completed fuel tanks. They have
already been sealed and sloshed, twice. Im hoping I dont have to open it
all up again. Any suggestions?
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV6a
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/11/03 8:32:18 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mantenbring@pangaeainc.com writes:
<< I'm thinking of buying a band saw, but not if this is the only time I'm
going to
use it. Is there many other times in the building of the kit where a band
saw is necessary? >>
I can't speak for the new kits but my lil' old Craftsman band saw (about 60
bucks new in 1995) has been my most used tools (next to the drill and cleco
pliers) in building my old style non-predrilled -6. I have lost count of the
number of blades I have gone thru.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Make sure you are using the Right hand snips vs. the Left Hand snips. If it
really curls up then try pointing the snips the other direction, or using
the other pair. The advice about leaving extra material is a good one too.
I usually mark the part with a sharpie, cut outside the line then use the
scotchbrite wheel to bring it to size.
You will not be sorry if you buy a bandsaw. There are hundreds of parts
that you are going to have to fabricate, especially when you get to the
fuselage. Most are made out of materials that are 0.125 or thicker so tin
snips are out of the question and you will either need a bandsaw or a
hacksaw and a lot of patience. I use mine so much that I've worn out 4 or 5
blades on my so far.
While you are out buying the bandsaw, pick up a pair of dial calipers and
you won't ever have to question the thickness of a piece of material again.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Antenbring" <mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Antenbring
<mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
>
> Listers,
> The plans say to fabricate a shim (R-710 I think), and 2 strips that go on
> the bottom edge of the rudder to attach the fairing. They say to use .032"
> alclad. Ok, the small stack of extra aluminium that came with the kit
> doesn't have the size stamped on it except for the thickest (.040"). I'm
> assuming the next size down is .032" -- is that right? Also, when I use
tin
> snips to cut these, it curls the metal, and is not doing a nice job. I'm
> thinking of buying a band saw, but not if this is the only time I'm going
to
> use it. Is there many other times in the building of the kit where a band
> saw is necessary?
> Regards,
> Mark
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Mark: There will be many occasions where you will have to cut 1/8 to 1/4"
bar-stock (unless the new kits come with each piece cut to the required
size, which I doubt!) so you should have a band saw. Also a vernier calipers
is a must tool (preferably with a dial gauge, to measure increments down to
0.001") to check thickness of metal and help lay-outs. I recommend a good
quality pair of long (12") straight snips with 3" cutting blades to cut long
length strips like the example you gave. You can clamp one handle in a vice
and work the other handle to make a nice straight cut, holding the strip
with your other hand to guide it while cutting along the line. The standard
Wiss L&R and off-set snips are required also. You can never have too many
tools, you'll find!
Cheers!!------Henry Hore
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: flop tube, after the fact |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Just intalling the flop tube would probably be doable, but the little
anti-hangup strips and the little door might be really difficult.
Here is a picture that I took of mine before I put the baffle on. Notice
the two strips of aluminum that are installed to keep the tube from hanging
up on a stiffener or a nutplate, and the little door that covers the hole in
the rib so that the fuel won't leave the bay in a hurry when you roll that
wing down.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=92
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: flop tube, after the fact
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> I would like to install flop tubes to my completed fuel tanks. They have
already been sealed and sloshed, twice. Im hoping I dont have to open it
all up again. Any suggestions?
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV6a
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
I second the motion, I held off on the band saw at first thinking I wouldn't
use it much on a quick build but finally relented and now realise I should
hve bought it right away. You will be fabricating many parts from angle and
bar stock, even with the QB
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 Rudder - fabricating parts
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 2/11/03 8:32:18 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> mantenbring@pangaeainc.com writes:
>
> << I'm thinking of buying a band saw, but not if this is the only time
I'm
> going to
> use it. Is there many other times in the building of the kit where a band
> saw is necessary? >>
>
> I can't speak for the new kits but my lil' old Craftsman band saw (about
60
> bucks new in 1995) has been my most used tools (next to the drill and
cleco
> pliers) in building my old style non-predrilled -6. I have lost count of
the
> number of blades I have gone thru.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, starting firewall forward
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: flop tube, after the fact |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow@fedex.com>
It is harder, but certainly can be done. I have the quickbuild wings and opted
to make one inverted. Using blind rivets to attache the flapper door, strips,
etc. makes things a lot easier.
The thing that was more difficult for me was remounting the sender in the second
bay over (as opposed to at the inboard end). Given the lack of access, it was
more difficult making sure the float was set up properly.
However, the most difficult aspect was just making sure I had all of the
aluminum shavings out from drilling - especially in that second bay. Lots of
vacuuming, mirrors, and lights, then a final "flushing" to try and wash out
anything I had missed.
All of that being said, it actually took less time than I would have guessed -
I
think 10 hours or so, plus or minus. I would certainly do it again...
csb
Phil Birkelbach wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> Just intalling the flop tube would probably be doable, but the little
> anti-hangup strips and the little door might be really difficult.
>
> Here is a picture that I took of mine before I put the baffle on. Notice
> the two strips of aluminum that are installed to keep the tube from hanging
> up on a stiffener or a nutplate, and the little door that covers the hole in
> the rib so that the fuel won't leave the bay in a hurry when you roll that
> wing down.
>
> http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=92
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: flop tube, after the fact
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
> >
> > I would like to install flop tubes to my completed fuel tanks. They have
> already been sealed and sloshed, twice. Im hoping I dont have to open it
> all up again. Any suggestions?
> >
> > Jeff Dowling
> > RV6a
> > Chicago/Louisville
> >
> >
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
My drawing 6PP is dated 3/13/96 with a revision 4 dated 3/01. What
model are you building, out of curiosity...
Pat
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Thanks Patrick. What vintage are your preview plans? My drawing #6
dated 4/9/01 shows 6 optional lightening holes on the VS-808PP.
FWIW, I am using the circle or "fly" cutter in the drill press. The
part is very well clamped with two clamps, and it does not move. I
found that it just takes forever to do...
--- On Tue 02/11, Patrick Kelley < webmaster@flion.com > wrote:
From: Patrick Kelley [mailto: webmaster@flion.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Drilling lightening holes
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
On my early pre-pre-punch tail kit and my (one of the first) pre-punch
wing kit for my -6A, I had to drill a lot of lightening holes. I don't
recall any in material larger that .040", and the only hole I needed to
cut in the VS doubler (bottom of the 'fork') was done with a unibit. On
the thinner material, a fly cutter takes seconds to finish the hole,
though I think my small drill press would bog down on thicker material.
If you must make large-diameter holes in thick stock, I think I would
recommend a router or getting it milled. I just looked at my preview
plans for the -7A and see no callout or recommendation for lightening
holes in the VS rear spar or doubler. Since there was recently a thread
on the list concerning a crash involving loss of the VS, you may want to
reconsider re-engineering this part.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Seat ribs being fitted to fuselage structure...
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling
one hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on
the slowest speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should
probably be drilled slower, but no luck with the current drill press.
Any good advice?? At this rate, I think there will only be one
lightening hole...
THanks,
Scott
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Aligning trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> A question to Henry and others: How does the wing tip line up. I have
> completed the wings, flaps and ailerons but am considering waiting until I
> get all the above mounted to the fuselage to mount the tips. It seems to
me,
> however that there will be little if any adjustment available to align the
> tip with the outboard tip of the aileron. For those who have gone before,
> can the tip be adjusted or am I stuck with what I got?
>
> Ron Schreck
> RV-8, Charlotte NC
Ron, the wingtips are suprisingly adjustable. You can easily get the
trailing edge to move up or down a half inch, maybe more. The ailerons are
the reference, then the flaps and wingtips are aligned to match. I've posted
a few tips on this process on my web site at...
http://www.rv-8.com/Wings.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 292 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jan <jan@claver.demon.co.uk>
Yes I did.....
Jan
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Benson [mailto:brad@cds-inc.com]
Subject: RV-List: Spam?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
So did anyone else from this list get spammed by aircraftextras.com? I
suspect they got my address from this list after seeing their advertisement
posted to the group last week.
Do Not Archive
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Aligning trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Ron, others interested,
A long time serial RV builder and A&P (not on web) advised me the following
works to align tip trailing edges to neutral or template clamped ailerons.
Believe it or not, he said you can work (rotate) the tip leading edge
slightly either way around the inside of the wing leading edge by moving of
the tip top surface relative the bottom surface. This moves (warps) the tip
trailing edge slightly up or down. I'm not there yet so can't confirm, but
you may want to try it before doing anything more drastic.
Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
-8 finish kit ordered
>From: Ronschreck99@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Aligning trailing edge
>Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 11:14:35 EST
(Snip)
>A question to Henry and others: How does the wing tip line up. (snip)
It seems to me, however that there will be little if any adjustment
available to align the
>tip with the outboard tip of the aileron. For those who have gone before,
>can the tip be adjusted or am I stuck with what I got?
>
>Ron Schreck
>RV-8, Charlotte NC
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Aligning trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Ron; You don't align the wing tip to the aileron, its the other way round!
the wing tip is installed so that it makes a nice fit and conforms to the
curvature of the top outboard skin. It should follow nicely. (at least mine
did and I' talking about the flat-top polyester ones here). Then the aileron
is clamped to the wing tip (and there should be a 1/4" gap between them and
their top surfaces should match flat to each other (assuming the aileron
hinges were installed correctly) Then adjust the aileron control rod-ends to
bring the stick to the perpendicular (neutral). Then adjust the other
aileron's rod-ends to bring that one to match its wing tip,-----etc.
Message 45
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| Subject: | Aligning trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
Sorry, but the paragraph below is not really correct.
The PROPPER way to do this is to align the ailerons where they belong...
according to the tooling holes in the end ribs of the wing and those in the
aileron. You can also use the template that was to be made out of the
shipping crate.
The fiberglass wing tips can be manipulated so that the trailing edge will
move about an inch up and an inch down (two inches overall travel at the
trailing edge of the wing tip. The ability of the fiberglass wing tip to
move precludes you from using it as the PROPPER way of rigging the ailerons.
It can be done as described below, but that is not correct.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Elsa & Henry
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aligning trailing edge
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Ron; You don't align the wing tip to the aileron, its the other way round!
the wing tip is installed so that it makes a nice fit and conforms to the
curvature of the top outboard skin. It should follow nicely. (at least mine
did and I' talking about the flat-top polyester ones here). Then the aileron
is clamped to the wing tip (and there should be a 1/4" gap between them and
their top surfaces should match flat to each other (assuming the aileron
hinges were installed correctly) Then adjust the aileron control rod-ends to
bring the stick to the perpendicular (neutral). Then adjust the other
aileron's rod-ends to bring that one to match its wing tip,-----etc.
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Flywheel Orientation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John H. Wiegenstein" <johnw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
Thanks to all for their answers to this question - once I saw them, it
jogged my memory of having seen something about this in the past, back when
the prospect of buying and hanging the engine was WAY in the distant future.
I just wanted to make sure what the setup was - those new Lycomings aren't
cheap, and I didn't want to make any mistakes down the road! I did measure
the lugs and holes, and found that the one hole was about .030 or so larger
in diameter, as was the lug at that location.
John H. Wiegenstein
HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC
19301 - 8th Avenue NE, Suite A
Poulsbo, WA 98370
(360) 394-3500
(360) 394-3503 FAX
johnw@hellerwiegenstein.com
Message 47
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| Subject: | Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
It's the 7A.
--- On Tue 02/11, Patrick Kelley < webmaster@flion.com > wrote:
From: Patrick Kelley [mailto: webmaster@flion.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Drilling lightening holes
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
My drawing 6PP is dated 3/13/96 with a revision 4 dated 3/01. What
model are you building, out of curiosity...
Pat
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Thanks Patrick. What vintage are your preview plans? My drawing #6
dated 4/9/01 shows 6 optional lightening holes on the VS-808PP.
FWIW, I am using the circle or "fly" cutter in the drill press. The
part is very well clamped with two clamps, and it does not move. I
found that it just takes forever to do...
--- On Tue 02/11, Patrick Kelley < webmaster@flion.com > wrote:
From: Patrick Kelley [mailto: webmaster@flion.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Drilling lightening holes
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
On my early pre-pre-punch tail kit and my (one of the first) pre-punch
wing kit for my -6A, I had to drill a lot of lightening holes. I don't
recall any in material larger that .040", and the only hole I needed to
cut in the VS doubler (bottom of the 'fork') was done with a unibit. On
the thinner material, a fly cutter takes seconds to finish the hole,
though I think my small drill press would bog down on thicker material.
If you must make large-diameter holes in thick stock, I think I would
recommend a router or getting it milled. I just looked at my preview
plans for the -7A and see no callout or recommendation for lightening
holes in the VS rear spar or doubler. Since there was recently a thread
on the list concerning a crash involving loss of the VS, you may want to
reconsider re-engineering this part.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Seat ribs being fitted to fuselage structure...
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling
one hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on
the slowest speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should
probably be drilled slower, but no luck with the current drill press.
Any good advice?? At this rate, I think there will only be one
lightening hole...
THanks,
Scott
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 48
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| Subject: | Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Hey Scott, yes your 7 plans do show those optional lightening holes. You
got the right tool, a fly cutter. Just keep those fingers out of the way or
it becomes a finger whacker. No, never got mine in the way jsut scared to
death of those things. Seriously, yes those are the only optional
lightening holes on the 7, at least through the wings. Check the archives,
this subject came up a couple weeks ago.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
I just looked at my preview
>plans for the -7A and see no callout or recommendation for lightening
>holes in the VS rear spar or doubler. Since there was recently a thread
>on the list concerning a crash involving loss of the VS, you may want to
>reconsider re-engineering this part.
>
Message 49
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Me too. Do Not Archive. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jan" <jan@claver.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Spam?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jan <jan@claver.demon.co.uk>
>
> Yes I did.....
>
> Jan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Benson [mailto:brad@cds-inc.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Spam?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>
>
> So did anyone else from this list get spammed by aircraftextras.com?
I
> suspect they got my address from this list after seeing their
advertisement
> posted to the group last week.
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Thanks!
> Brad "Sharpie" Benson
> RV6AQB underway...
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "EM Morgan" <bossone@cox-internet.com>
Correction. Without flanging these are weakening holes. Go figure the area
of the hole VS the weight of the sheet and you do not save diddly.
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Drilling lightening holes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> It's the 7A.
>
>
> --- On Tue 02/11, Patrick Kelley < webmaster@flion.com > wrote:
> From: Patrick Kelley [mailto: webmaster@flion.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 12:29:11 -0700
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Drilling lightening holes
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
>
> My drawing 6PP is dated 3/13/96 with a revision 4 dated 3/01. What
> model are you building, out of curiosity...
>
> Pat
>
> -----Original Message-----
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> Thanks Patrick. What vintage are your preview plans? My drawing #6
> dated 4/9/01 shows 6 optional lightening holes on the VS-808PP.
>
> FWIW, I am using the circle or "fly" cutter in the drill press. The
> part is very well clamped with two clamps, and it does not move. I
> found that it just takes forever to do...
>
>
> --- On Tue 02/11, Patrick Kelley < webmaster@flion.com > wrote:
> From: Patrick Kelley [mailto: webmaster@flion.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 07:19:56 -0700
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Drilling lightening holes
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
>
> On my early pre-pre-punch tail kit and my (one of the first) pre-punch
> wing kit for my -6A, I had to drill a lot of lightening holes. I don't
> recall any in material larger that .040", and the only hole I needed to
> cut in the VS doubler (bottom of the 'fork') was done with a unibit. On
> the thinner material, a fly cutter takes seconds to finish the hole,
> though I think my small drill press would bog down on thicker material.
> If you must make large-diameter holes in thick stock, I think I would
> recommend a router or getting it milled. I just looked at my preview
> plans for the -7A and see no callout or recommendation for lightening
> holes in the VS rear spar or doubler. Since there was recently a thread
> on the list concerning a crash involving loss of the VS, you may want to
> reconsider re-engineering this part.
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Seat ribs being fitted to fuselage structure...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> Any tips on drilling lightening holes? I just spent 45 minutes drilling
> one hole through the VS rear spar doubler. I used a circle cutter on
> the slowest speed (620 rpm), but it took forever. I know they should
> probably be drilled slower, but no luck with the current drill press.
> Any good advice?? At this rate, I think there will only be one
> lightening hole...
>
> THanks,
> Scott
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Aligning trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I strongly recommend against installing the wing tips then aligning the
ailerons to match. The tips are very flexible, and can be installed out of
plumb (for lack of a better term). Also, in the past (don't know about
current production items), there was a problem with some of the tips where
people had to split the tips and re-glass them to get them to align properly
aerodynamically.
Aligning the flaps, ailerons, etc. to a misrigged tip could give a nasty out
of rig condition to the airplane, which you don't want to deal with on a
first flight. If you had that condition, you'd have to uninstall, modify,
and repaint the tip(s) to get the airplane to fly properly.
It is far easier to use the tooling holes to align everything properly
during construciton.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aligning trailing edge
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Ron; You don't align the wing tip to the aileron, its the other way round!
> the wing tip is installed so that it makes a nice fit and conforms to the
> curvature of the top outboard skin. It should follow nicely. (at least
mine
> did and I' talking about the flat-top polyester ones here). Then the
aileron
> is clamped to the wing tip (and there should be a 1/4" gap between them
and
> their top surfaces should match flat to each other (assuming the aileron
> hinges were installed correctly) Then adjust the aileron control rod-ends
to
> bring the stick to the perpendicular (neutral). Then adjust the other
> aileron's rod-ends to bring that one to match its wing tip,-----etc.
>
>
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Flywheel Orientation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Interesting. Mine is absolutely a "one position" assembly.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Flywheel Orientation
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 2/10/03 3:55:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> kyle.boatright@adelphia.net writes:
>
> << One of the lugs on the crank is a different size than the others.
There is
> a matching hole on the flywheel. The only way your flywheel will fit is
by
> matching the odd sized lug with the odd sized hole.
> >>
>
> Interestingly, that's what I was told in answer to the same question, but
on
> my new Van's 0-360 A1A the flywheel will go on in either of two different
> positions. So I'm interested in the answer to this question also.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, starting firewall forward
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Aligning trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Elsa & Henry wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Ron; You don't align the wing tip to the aileron, its the other way round!
> the wing tip is installed so that it makes a nice fit and conforms to the
> curvature of the top outboard skin. It should follow nicely. (at least mine
> did and I' talking about the flat-top polyester ones here). Then the aileron
> is clamped to the wing tip (and there should be a 1/4" gap between them and
> their top surfaces should match flat to each other (assuming the aileron
> hinges were installed correctly) Then adjust the aileron control rod-ends to
> bring the stick to the perpendicular (neutral). Then adjust the other
> aileron's rod-ends to bring that one to match its wing tip,-----etc.
>
Do not follow the above procedure.....unless you feel very lucky! :-)
As has been stated before, the control surfaces MUST be properly aligned
to the wing first, then you do whatever is necessary to get the tips to
align with the trailing edge of the ailerons.
Not sure about the new tips, but I have even seen a couple of cases
where the trailing edge of the tips had to be split, then reglassed to
get the tips to align with the ailerons.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Message 54
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| Subject: | Great building tip regarding riveting in enlarged holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
I am getting older and can not remember where I saw this suggestion but it
is worth reiterating in case you missed it.
When doing things like wing nose ribs, you will enlarge the holes with
assembly and disassembly until the rivets are getting sloppy when you get
around to riveting. Now you need a longer rivet than original to get the
proper diameter and thickness shop head, but trying to keep the longer rivet
from tipping is difficult especially in tight bucking locations. There was a
suggestion to pre-squeeze the rivets in a rivet squeezer to make like an
in-between uh-oh rivet. I did it today and it works like a champ!
I layed the pneumatic squeezer on the bench and held the rivet with a pair
of tweezers while squeezing. Keep making it shorter and fatter until it just
snuggly fits into the enlarged holes. Now bucking it straight is a piece of
cake.
The author had suggested using the specified length rivet, but I think that
you should start with a longer rivet so that you do get a good shop head and
this technique allows you to use the longer rivet.
Maybe everyone else already new this trick but me. It is worth trying!
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying and 9A with rotary building, SE Fla ( flew an hour
today with IFR instructor. Not a cloud in the sky and 72 degrees of dry air,
ah Fla is good!)
Message 55
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
Two full inches? That is quite bit. Another poster suggested shimming
the front roll bar, but I don't think that will work if I'm envisioning
your problem correctly.
The height of the far aft end of that center bar is determined solely by
the position of the center track. If you completely remove the center
track, can you lower the bar (and the rear canopy bow) to the right
position? If so, my guess is that the track is in the wrong place. Maybe
too far forward? The bend in my canopy track is almost right on top of
the web of the baggage compartment bulkhead. I also had to put a little
bit of extra bend in the canopy track. Make sure the bend angle is
correct.
Those are my guesses.....
Jordan Grant
RV-6 Slider
Getting ready to permanently rivet the canopy onto the frame
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bert Forero
Subject: RV-List: canopy frame
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hello:
Finally I have the sides of canopy frame, for
rv6a, to fit correctly.
Now the problem I have is that the top center
bar, is too high at the rear- end...
It is a heavy tube, any one have had this problem
if so hoe is solved?
The instructions call for the aft end, to be
at least even with fuselage skin. I am about 2"
above skin, when canopy is fully closed.
I have moved the center track, as much as I can..
to lower the frame...
Suggestions?
Thanks
Bert
rv6A
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I will have to say that given the thickness of the VS spar reinforcement and
it's aft position.......heck if you got time in your building sch. on the
new kits, drill out these holes. It's one thick as$ piece.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "EM Morgan" <bossone@cox-internet.com>
>
>Correction. Without flanging these are weakening holes. Go figure the area
>of the hole VS the weight of the sheet and you do not save diddly.
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | RV6 seat belts for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
I have a new set of Van's RV6 or 6A seat belts #SBH 6 in cruiser gray that I
want to sell. Cost was $252.00, I'll sell them for $175.00 including
shipping. Please contact me off list.
Larry Gagnon
Days 860-667-9999
Cell 860-573-2205
RV6 N6LG Moving to airport soon
Do not archive
Message 58
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|
| Subject: | dimension comparison: RV-8 and RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm curious if anybody out there might have or be able to take the following
measurement on an RV-8 and RV-7 -- both tailwheel, stock landing gear and
wheel/tire config, of course -- I'm looking for the distance between the
center of the crankshaft and the ground when the longerons are level
(tail-up attitude).
I basically want to compare the RV-8 and RV-7 (I don't have my engine
installed yet) to determine if there's any extra "built in" prop clearance
on either model. I suspect the RV-8 sits slightly taller but I figured I'd
toss this out there to get the specifics.
do not archive
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
I talked to Vans today before drilling out the CS4-4 rivets. I didn't want
to if these were OK. Vans told me the CS rivet is a "counter sunk" blind
rivet and the LP was a Low profile. The CS rivet would need to be removed
even though these look very similar they are very different.
I felt like an idiot for not knowing this. I just want to pass the
information along to anyone else not used to blind rivet types. Thanks again
for pointing out where the correct one is listed on the plans.
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Karie, and or David,
>
> On the lower right hand side of my drawing #3 that shows ribs on the left
> hand side of the blowup.........it says "LP4-3 all HS 707 to HS 702 to HS
> 708 blind rivets" If the newest plans show a CS4-4 please let me know so
I
> can update that rivet call on by website.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
> >From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> >Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 13:31:57 -0800
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> >
> >Thanks David, your reply came just in time. I'm moving foward and hope to
> >have at least on skin on today.
> >
> >Karie
> >
> >Do not archive
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> > >
> > > CS4-4, or you could use flush rivets if you want to go to the effort.
> > >
> > > For a how-to guide to building an RV-7 check out Dan Checkoway's web
> >page
> > > at:
> > > http://www.rvproject.com
> > >
> > > You'll probably want a fast connection. There are a million
> >photographs...
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Blind Rivet Question 7A HS Stab
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
> > > >
> > > > I'm getting ready to rivet the skins on the HS and I'm supposed to
> >blind
> > > rivet HS-702 to HS-707 and HS-708. Granted there are only a few pop
> >rivets
> > > that I have that will fit these holes but the plans simply say "blind"
> >rivet
> > > these parts.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas which one to use? I think it looks like I should use a
CS4-4
> >but
> > > I'm just guessing.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Karie Daniel
> > > > Sammamish, WA. (formerly of Maple Valley, WA) I moved this week. 3
car
> > > garage now!
> > > > RV-7A
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 60
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| Subject: | [ Scott Van Artsdalen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Scott Van Artsdalen <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Subject: First Flight
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/svanarts@unionsafe.com.02.11.2003/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photoshare of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to.
2) Your Full Name.
3) Your Email Address.
4) One line Subject description.
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic.
6) One-line Description of each photo or file.
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
--------------------------------------------
Message 61
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| Subject: | Drilling lightening holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Thanks for all the advice on drilling the lightening holes. I was able to get
them knocked out tonight much quicker, due to a couple of key changes:
1) Tightened the chuck down very tight (it is a press fit on a tapered shaft).
I think I got some slippage before.
2) Tighten all the screws on the fly cutter and the bit in the chuck.
3) Use lots of 3-in-one oil on the part while drilling. I think this is what really
made the difference!
Thanks,
Scott
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