Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:57 AM - Re: HS-404 trim (Kyle Boatright)
2. 06:45 AM - Re: RV8-List: HS-404 trim (Lloyd)
3. 07:10 AM - Re: HS-404 trim (Mark Phillips)
4. 07:23 AM - A Handy Hint. (cecilth@juno.com)
5. 07:23 AM - > Re:HS - 404 Trim (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
6. 08:17 AM - Re: > Re:HS - 404 Trim (Tedd McHenry)
7. 08:18 AM - Re: HS-404 trim (Elsa & Henry)
8. 08:30 AM - test (Bill Marvel)
9. 08:37 AM - Re: Pictures of RV10 (Jerry)
10. 08:52 AM - Re: Pictures of RV10 (Jerry Springer)
11. 09:52 AM - Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (dag adamson)
12. 10:28 AM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Randy Lervold)
13. 10:38 AM - RV get together. (Dana Overall)
14. 11:03 AM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Jeff Point)
15. 11:55 AM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Randy Lervold)
16. 12:35 PM - Missaligned holes (Bert Forero)
17. 12:38 PM - Scotch Brite (Chris)
18. 12:41 PM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Chris)
19. 01:11 PM - Re: Scotch Brite (Cy Galley)
20. 02:39 PM - Re: Misaligned holes (Rick Galati)
21. 03:45 PM - Tire tube (Tim)
22. 03:54 PM - Stereo Headsets (Jim Bean)
23. 04:27 PM - Re: Tire tube (Randy Lervold)
24. 04:31 PM - Re: Tire tube (Joe Hine)
25. 04:56 PM - Making an inexpensive dimmer - audio taper or linear taper resistor? (dag adamson)
26. 05:05 PM - Re: Stereo Headsets (Pete Elia)
27. 05:41 PM - Re: Tire tube (Gary Zilik)
28. 06:11 PM - Re: Stereo Headsets (Dave Bristol)
29. 06:28 PM - Re: Tire tube (Cy Galley)
30. 06:28 PM - Re: Tire tube (Cy Galley)
31. 07:10 PM - Re: HS-404 trim (Robert McCallum)
32. 07:25 PM - Electric DG with Heading Bug (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
33. 08:59 PM - Radio Rack Hardware (Edward O'Connor)
34. 09:21 PM - Re: Radio Rack Hardware (Bill Marvel)
35. 09:25 PM - Re: Radio Rack Hardware (Jerry Springer)
36. 09:25 PM - Hartwell Latch Model H-4600 (Edward O'Connor)
37. 09:29 PM - Re: Radio Rack Hardware (Larry Bowen)
38. 09:34 PM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (David Aronson)
39. 09:52 PM - Re: Stereo Headsets (Doug Rozendaal)
40. 09:58 PM - Re: RV or Rocket????? (Meketa)
41. 10:02 PM - Re: Radio Rack Hardware (Stein Bruch)
42. 10:36 PM - Alternative Subaru (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
43. 10:39 PM - Re: RV or Rocket????? (John Schnebeck)
44. 11:05 PM - Bandsaw, etc. (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
45. 11:11 PM - It's finally in my garage (Karie Daniel)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
As far as I can tell, snips are snips. Home Depot and Lowes both carry the
same centerpunches, circle cutters, snips, etc. that are offered by most of
the aviation tool vendors.
A steel rule is nice, but for most of my airplane I used a tape measure or
whatever ruler happened to be close by.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: HS-404 trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@attbi.com>
>
> Actually I have a few questions here.
>
> What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a
> band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this
> cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but
they
> seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at
> Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips
from
> home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft
> tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel
> ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more
> reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch?
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, Wa
> RV-8 emp.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: HS-404 trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lloyd <tlloyd6250@comcast.net>
When trimming Al sheet, try this.
Make your cut in three passes. The first 1/4" away from the line you desire.
The second at 1/8" away from the line and the last near, but still not on
the line. Then finish with a file.
The reason for this progression is that on the first cut small ripples will
remain on the good piece due to the strength of the discard. The smaller
second cut will result in almost no ripple and the third will produce a curl
on the discard and no ripple. After finish filing the you'll have a perfect
edge. As too files; Course files like body files are great. They never load
up. File files require constant brushing with the wire side of a file card
to cut cleanly. Chrome plated medium single cut bastards are the great as
well.
Tom Lloyd N842TL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Will & Lynda
Allen
Subject: RV8-List: HS-404 trim
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@attbi.com>
Actually I have a few questions here.
What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a
band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this
cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they
seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at
Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from
home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft
tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel
ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more
reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch?
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV-8 emp.
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Regarding cutting & measuring weapons:
The only thing you will regret about a band saw is it not working when you need
it- get the biggest throat you can afford and NEVER let anything harder than
aluminum touch its blade. A thin cutoff wheel in a die grinder also makes for
dandy cuts (Norton #A60-OBNA2), as does them itty-bitty wheels you can get for
you Dremel tool (re-inforced wheels only #426 or #456- them other ones just love
to come apart at the worst time!)
I've got L, R & std. snips from Wiss that work nicely (but I use my bandsaw a
WHOLE lot more!), but on advice here on the list (IIRC) I ground away most of
the teeth to do less damage to the edge when cutting. The real secret to using
these things is to progressively cut closer to your final line to eliminate
warping the edge- make your next to last cut 1/8" or less from your final trim
and you will get a very nice edge, & if you're REALLY anal, only trim within a
smidgen of your line and file it the rest of the way. This has worked for me,
anyway...
El cheapo aluminum "yardsticks" are only a few bux and a lot more accurate than
my eyes- I've got a 3 and a 4 footer and use them for everything from clamping
onto ribs to line stuff up, using as a rip fence on my bandsaw, retrieving that
screw I dropped on the floor, and oh yeah- measuring stuff too! 8-)
Hope this helps & have fun!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Will & Lynda Allen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@attbi.com>
>
> Actually I have a few questions here.
>
> What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a
> band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this
> cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they
> seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at
> Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from
> home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft
> tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel
> ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more
> reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch?
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, Wa
> RV-8 emp.
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com
Have an old tape measure laying around?
I did, I had a broken one.
I cut that sucker up into many pieces. I have them all over the shop.
4 inch, 12 inch and 24 inch pieces.
Always easy to find one when I need to measure something.
Cecil
> As far as I can tell, snips are snips. Home Depot and Lowes both
> carry the
> same centerpunches, circle cutters, snips, etc. that are offered by
> most of
> the aviation tool vendors.
>
> A steel rule is nice, but for most of my airplane I used a tape
> measure or
> whatever ruler happened to be close by.
>
> KB
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: > Re:HS - 404 Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I bought a bandsaw ( Upright or Horizontal ) from Harbor freight Tools in
1982 while working on our first RV-4 . I have now completed the second RV-4
using it . The $ 199 price seems OK to me. Free shipping on over $50 orders.
An extra wood cutting blade on hand would forestall delays.
The left and right cutting snips are good for situations where there is NO
other way to make a cut. They leave serrated edges which must be filed to
smooth. They are necessary though.
I don't know prices on other brands of bandsaws , so you'll need to shop.
You will use it a lot though.
I have a 6" belt sander on my tool bench which is also indespensable , I use
it more than any other tool.
I use a hardware store 36" aluminum yardstick for straightedge , and a 12"
sheared aluminum straightedge . These have served well in building both
planes.
Good Luck,
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: > Re:HS - 404 Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
I bought two tools that were really worth the money.
The first is a cheap pneumatic nibbler, which I got on sale at House of Tools
(Canada) for, oh, I forget, but not much. Maybe twenty or thirty bucks. It's
great for that first pass 1/4" away from the line.
The second is a used Sears bandsaw. I got it for CDN$350 (about US$220). It's
a well-made tool with a 16" throat, and the mechanism tilts while the table,
which is mounted on a large roller cabinet, stays horizontal. That's a feature
you don't see much anymore, but I love it.
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
In 1994 I ordered the complete kit and while waiting for delivery, I made a
bunch of home made tools including a mandrel with a handle for the cut-off
wheels. I had visited another builder who was at the fuselage stage trimming
his canopy plexi using the cut-off wheels supplied by Van's in the kit,
driving them with a die-grinder as shown in the manual. I didn't think that
was a good way, so hence my tool. These cut-off wheels are 3'' dia., .045"
thk. and mounted in 1/4" mandrel screwed into a 4 1/2" long shaft with the
handle running in bearings proved to be (for me) the best way to trim
aluminum sheet. No snip marks and final clean-up done with a hand held belt
sander or palm sander using 100 grit paper.
Cutting aluminum with those discs does wear them down rather fast but so
what? I did all the plexi trimming using the above tool and it was great to
guide the cut-off wheel on line, driven by a hand drill at speed reduced by
a variac. Funnily, for all the plexi trimming done, the cut-off wheel was
reduced only 1/4" off its 3" diameter!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
test
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832
7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Pictures of RV10 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" <jdoyal@sport.rr.com>
Do you know what their plans for the top section may be. I am sure they will
have a rollover structure instead of just plexiglass. It is really looking
like a nice plane, any indication on a completion date. Looks like it may be
my next project.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel@verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Pictures of RV10
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel@verizon.net>
>
> Listers-
>
> I put some pictures of the RV10 taken at a recent Van's Homewing meeting
> last week.
>
> enjoy-
> http://robin.getbiz.net/rv10.htm
>
> Robin Wessel
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Pictures of RV10 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Van told me he "hoped" to have it at Oshkosh.
Jerry Springer
do not archive
Jerry wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" <jdoyal@sport.rr.com>
>
> Do you know what their plans for the top section may be. I am sure they will
> have a rollover structure instead of just plexiglass. It is really looking
> like a nice plane, any indication on a completion date. Looks like it may be
> my next project.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel@verizon.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Pictures of RV10
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel@verizon.net>
>>
>>Listers-
>>
>>I put some pictures of the RV10 taken at a recent Van's Homewing meeting
>>last week.
>>
>>enjoy-
>>http://robin.getbiz.net/rv10.htm
>>
>>Robin Wessel
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
Hello-
I am interested in mounting a brake reservoir to the
pilot pedals. Anyone have a picture of this?
Can't seem to get in to rv-8.com - someone had
mentioned there might be a picture there.
Thanks
Dag
=====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Grand Junction, CO
*****************
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> I am interested in mounting a brake reservoir to the
> pilot pedals. Anyone have a picture of this?
>
> Can't seem to get in to rv-8.com - someone had
> mentioned there might be a picture there.
>
> Thanks
> Dag
Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few
hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move.
Sorry for the delay,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | RV get together. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Nice try for those 11 RV pilots who intended to show up at the little KY RV
get together. Those who showed up were obviously all drivers with the ran
we have had............seems no one has an Ark they are currently building.
After talking with Chuck, a 6 builder from Frankfort........man, I feel
sorry for you 6 builders:-) Sorry, just had to say that. For those who
think a jigless emp. can't be straight, Jim Combs shot a laser line through
his 8 HS elevator brackets.....dead nuts straight, built on a bench.
Looks like the northern half of KY is under an inch of ice. Richmond, where
I live is the demarcation line of the ice.......this is a shot of off one of
my neighbors driveway.
Sorry for the non issue RV post but it sure is nice to hangar fly with a
bunch of RV guys. Had a great time with the people who did drive in.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Dang, I hoped it was down while you updated the prop testing page.
How's the testing going?
Jeff Point
Milwaukee WI
Randy Lervold wrote:
Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few
hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move.
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
That too, although it might be mon/tues for that addition...
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> Dang, I hoped it was down while you updated the prop testing page.
> How's the testing going?
>
> Jeff Point
> Milwaukee WI
>
> Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few
> hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move.
>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Missaligned holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
On the top front skin, I found I have a few holes that
are not aligned, to the ribs as I should have done.
To correct these errors, I can put rivets on them
after removing the dimples..but then I have to filed
the shop heads, so that skin lays flat etc..
I was thinking to use, J>B weld, and then sand
but I do not think it will work, as the skin is so
thin, there is not enough surface...
So that is it, Of course, I could buy a new skin
at the pop of $52.00 or so plus Vans shipping, which
they will charge probably $100.00 for it...
Any other suggestions
Bert
rv6a
Starting canopy
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
I was browsing through my MSC catalog today and noticed a 7447 and 7448
scotch brite pads that were both maroon, 6"x9", sold 20 per box, and
both listed as "very fine" so I couldn't help but wonder what the
difference was. So I went to 3M's web site (what a mess you can't find
anything there worth knowing) so I thought I would ask the list if
anyone here knows. BTW the 7447 is $0.89 each and the 8447 is $1.03
each. And in case you were wondering, no I am not dyslexic, I do mean
8447 not 7448 which is light gray and "ultra fine"
do not archive
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
Randy Lervold wrote:
> Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few
> hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move.
>
> Sorry for the delay,
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
> do not archive
I have seen it take a few days for DNS records to propagate across the web
before, if you know the IP address Dag could use that to get on the site
now.
do not archive
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Scotch Brite |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Could it be the size?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <chrisw3@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Scotch Brite
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> I was browsing through my MSC catalog today and noticed a 7447 and 7448
> scotch brite pads that were both maroon, 6"x9", sold 20 per box, and
> both listed as "very fine" so I couldn't help but wonder what the
> difference was. So I went to 3M's web site (what a mess you can't find
> anything there worth knowing) so I thought I would ask the list if
> anyone here knows. BTW the 7447 is $0.89 each and the 8447 is $1.03
> each. And in case you were wondering, no I am not dyslexic, I do mean
> 8447 not 7448 which is light gray and "ultra fine"
>
> do not archive
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | RE: Misaligned holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
On the top front skin, I found I have a few holes that
are
not aligned, to the ribs as I should have done.
To correct
these errors, I can put rivets on them
after removing the dimples..but then I
have to filed
the shop heads, so that skin lays flat etc..
I
was thinking to use, J B weld, and then sand
but I do not think it will
work, as the skin is so
thin, there is not enough
surface...
So that is it, Of course, I could buy a new
skin
at the pop of $52.00 or so plus Vans shipping, which
they will
charge probably $100.00 for it...
Any other
suggestions
Bert
Bert,
Without seeing the actual condition you are talking about, I would suggest
it may be possible
to rivet angle stock ( example: 3/4"X3/4" .032) to the
affected rib to pick up the errant holes
in the skin. You would cut away the affected portion of the rib FLANGE
where the misalignment
exists and rivet this repair stock in place on the rib WEB in the area of
non conformance, maintaining
surface flushness with the remaining rib flange. You now have
effectively created a new undrilled rib flange.
Alternatively, you can simply saddle this repair angle underneath the
affected area, again riveting one side
of the angle stock to the web. Install skin and drill into repair
material. But if you do it this way, be sure
to file away the sharp edges off the double drilled holes you will have
created.
Forget the JB Weld, that's wishful thinking.
Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Tim <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Well, judging by the lack of hits on my archive
searching, I must be the only one that has never
seen a tire tube with this much hardware on it.
So the tire tube that came with my finishing kit
has a metal inflation valve with two threaded portions.
The metal tube at the point where it enteres the rubber
has a few threads. It then bends 90 deg, and has some
more threads on the end.
Screwed onto the threads were a metal cap (I understand
that one :-)), a brass colored hex nut, a thin, chromed
(jam?) nut, and a chromed washer.
OK, so after looking at the wheel, it is apparent that
the inflation tube goes through a hole in the hub and
through a grommet in the side of the wheel half. But
what the heck is all this other hardware for? Does
the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the
wheel somehow?
Thanks,
- Tim.
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
I would like to wire my plane so that either mono or stereo headsets can
be used. What plug/jack is used for stereo? I'me gessing its a
tip-ring-sleeve version of the same diameter jack as the mono. Do you
have to put in both jacks or what?
Jim Bean
building RV-8
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Tim, the nuts/washers are not needed for the wheels Van's provides, toss
'em.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 295 hrs
www.rv-8.com (down right now)
> So the tire tube that came with my finishing kit
> has a metal inflation valve with two threaded portions.
> The metal tube at the point where it enteres the rubber
> has a few threads. It then bends 90 deg, and has some
> more threads on the end.
>
> Screwed onto the threads were a metal cap (I understand
> that one :-)), a brass colored hex nut, a thin, chromed
> (jam?) nut, and a chromed washer.
>
> OK, so after looking at the wheel, it is apparent that
> the inflation tube goes through a hole in the hub and
> through a grommet in the side of the wheel half. But
> what the heck is all this other hardware for? Does
> the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the
> wheel somehow?
>
> Thanks,
> - Tim.
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
- Does
the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the
wheel somehow?
Thanks,
- Tim.
In a word Tim Yes . They are not like car tube, where the valve just
sticks through the wheel. Go to the Dressler (sp?) tire web site, they have
a good section on tire and tube maintainance. You can get to it through
Doug Reeves site.
Joe Hine
Message 25
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| Subject: | Making an inexpensive dimmer - audio taper or linear taper resistor? |
--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
Hello-
I am use a simple dimmer out of a couple of
transistors and a pot to make a panel dimmer. Should
I use an audio taper or a linear taper potentiometer?
-Dag
=====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Grand Junction, CO
*****************
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Stereo Headsets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Elia" <peteandsharon@earthlink.net>
Jim,
You are correct, the plug/jack for stereo use is a tip-ring-sleeve. Tip is
+ Ring is - and sleeve is ground. For mono use, the tip and ring are simply
tied together - no extra jack is needed. A mono plug in a stereo jack will
simply do this by its tip physically touching both the ring and sleeve.
Most headsets have a stereo/mono selector where it passively ties the tip
and ring signals together.
My understanding of this comes from the world of audio production, so double
check if there is any unusual variation in aviation use.
Pete E.
Sierra Madre, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Stereo Headsets
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
> I would like to wire my plane so that either mono or stereo headsets can
> be used. What plug/jack is used for stereo? I'me gessing its a
> tip-ring-sleeve version of the same diameter jack as the mono. Do you
> have to put in both jacks or what?
> Jim Bean
> building RV-8
>
>
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
loose the hardware (except for the cap) and install the tube. All the
extra hardware is not used in our application
Gary
Tim wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Tim <rv9a_000@deru.com>
>
>Well, judging by the lack of hits on my archive
>searching, I must be the only one that has never
>seen a tire tube with this much hardware on it.
>
>So the tire tube that came with my finishing kit
>has a metal inflation valve with two threaded portions.
>The metal tube at the point where it enteres the rubber
>has a few threads. It then bends 90 deg, and has some
>more threads on the end.
>
>Screwed onto the threads were a metal cap (I understand
>that one :-)), a brass colored hex nut, a thin, chromed
>(jam?) nut, and a chromed washer.
>
>OK, so after looking at the wheel, it is apparent that
>the inflation tube goes through a hole in the hub and
>through a grommet in the side of the wheel half. But
>what the heck is all this other hardware for? Does
>the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the
>wheel somehow?
>
>Thanks,
>- Tim.
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Stereo Headsets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Don't connect the tip and ring together on the jack, if you do, and plug in a
mono plug, the signal will be shorted to ground. The only place you can connect
the tip and ring together is on the male plug on the headset itself and even
then, (if you have a stereo system in the aircraft) you'll be shorting the left
and right channels together.
If you want the system to work with either stereo or mono headsets you must
either have two jacks, stereo and mono, or use an inline adapter.
If you don't have stereo in the airplane then just install the standard mono
jacks and keep an adapter handy for stereo headsets.
Dave
RV6 SoCal, EAA Technical Counselor
Pete Elia wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Elia" <peteandsharon@earthlink.net>
>
> Jim,
> You are correct, the plug/jack for stereo use is a tip-ring-sleeve. Tip is
> + Ring is - and sleeve is ground. For mono use, the tip and ring are simply
> tied together - no extra jack is needed. A mono plug in a stereo jack will
> simply do this by its tip physically touching both the ring and sleeve.
> Most headsets have a stereo/mono selector where it passively ties the tip
> and ring signals together.
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
NO!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tire tube
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
>
>
> - Does
> the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the
> wheel somehow?
>
> Thanks,
> - Tim.
>
> In a word Tim Yes . They are not like car tube, where the valve just
> sticks through the wheel. Go to the Dressler (sp?) tire web site, they
have
> a good section on tire and tube maintainance. You can get to it through
> Doug Reeves site.
>
> Joe Hine
>
>
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
They aren't needed!
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim" <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tire tube
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tim <rv9a_000@deru.com>
>
> Well, judging by the lack of hits on my archive
> searching, I must be the only one that has never
> seen a tire tube with this much hardware on it.
>
> So the tire tube that came with my finishing kit
> has a metal inflation valve with two threaded portions.
> The metal tube at the point where it enteres the rubber
> has a few threads. It then bends 90 deg, and has some
> more threads on the end.
>
> Screwed onto the threads were a metal cap (I understand
> that one :-)), a brass colored hex nut, a thin, chromed
> (jam?) nut, and a chromed washer.
>
> OK, so after looking at the wheel, it is apparent that
> the inflation tube goes through a hole in the hub and
> through a grommet in the side of the wheel half. But
> what the heck is all this other hardware for? Does
> the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the
> wheel somehow?
>
> Thanks,
> - Tim.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
> Regarding cutting & measuring weapons:
>
> The only thing you will regret about a band saw is it not working when you need
> it-
Granted
> get the biggest throat you can afford
Most definitely
> and NEVER let anything harder than
> aluminum touch its blade.
Why not?? Mine cuts 4130, and stainless no problem. All you need is the proper
blade and speed.
A bi-metal blade from any good industrial supply house will handle most any material
except
perhaps hardened tool steel. Granted stainless requires a slower speed than aluminium
but
why should that be a problem?? It's not hard to use multi-step pulleys to regulate
the speed.
Bob McC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Electric DG with Heading Bug |
--> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
Can anyone direct me to an ELECTRIC (not vacuum) DG with a "Heading Bug" to
interface with my System 30 autopilot?
Thanks in advance.
Pete Hunt
Clearwater, FL
RV-6, Instrument panel
Message 33
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| Subject: | Radio Rack Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" <edwardoconnor@compuserve.com>
I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30 com/nav in my
RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument panel and have drilled the
angle to attach the racks to it. The instructions indicate to use hardware
with a low profile so as to allow the radios to slid in without
interference. I have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too
much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or the head is too
big around and will not fit down in the slot in the rack and causes
interference. What have others used to mount the racks to the .063 angle?
I tried button head bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe
there is not a better (and easier) way.
RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and
auto pilot.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Rack Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
Ed:
3/16 hardware? Are you planning on pulling 42 G's?
I also installed a full UPS stack in my -8A. The machine screws that hold the
racks to the angles attached to the back of the panel are 8/32 flat head screws
as
I recall, or possibly even 6/32. BTW, the same size screws have held the radios
in my Grumman Tiger for the past 25 years. No need for overkill here. Use the
flat head machine screw size that allows the radios to slide into the racks.
Bill Marvel
Back on the list again
Edward O'Connor wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" <edwardoconnor@compuserve.com>
>
> I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30 com/nav in my
> RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument panel and have drilled the
> angle to attach the racks to it. The instructions indicate to use hardware
> with a low profile so as to allow the radios to slid in without
> interference. I have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too
> much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or the head is too
> big around and will not fit down in the slot in the rack and causes
> interference. What have others used to mount the racks to the .063 angle?
> I tried button head bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe
> there is not a better (and easier) way.
> RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and
> auto pilot.
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Rack Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Dimple and counter sink, 3/16 is probably a little larger than you needed.
Jerry
do not archive
Edward O'Connor wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" <edwardoconnor@compuserve.com>
>
> I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30 com/nav in my
> RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument panel and have drilled the
> angle to attach the racks to it. The instructions indicate to use hardware
> with a low profile so as to allow the radios to slid in without
> interference. I have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too
> much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or the head is too
> big around and will not fit down in the slot in the rack and causes
> interference. What have others used to mount the racks to the .063 angle?
> I tried button head bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe
> there is not a better (and easier) way.
> RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and
> auto pilot.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Hartwell Latch Model H-4600 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" <edwardoconnor@compuserve.com>
I am looking for a source for the Hartwell latch H-4600. It is much lighter
duty then the H-5100 all the catalogs list. I am using it for storage doors
on compartments in the cockpit. It is much easier to push and reset as it
uses a lighter spring and is slightly smaller. Anybody know who I might
order some from or an alternate brand which is light duty? Thanks.
Ed O'Connor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL
Message 37
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| Subject: | Radio Rack Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I have the same radios in my RV-8 panel. I had to polish a very small
amount off of the SS button head hex screws to get the radios to slide
in. I couldn't come up with anything better either.....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Edward O'Connor
> Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 12:04 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Radio Rack Hardware
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor"
> --> <edwardoconnor@compuserve.com>
>
> I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30
> com/nav in my RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument
> panel and have drilled the angle to attach the racks to it.
> The instructions indicate to use hardware with a low profile
> so as to allow the radios to slid in without interference. I
> have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too
> much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or
> the head is too big around and will not fit down in the slot
> in the rack and causes interference. What have others used
> to mount the racks to the .063 angle? I tried button head
> bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe there is
> not a better (and easier) way. RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek
> Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and auto pilot.
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Randy:
I posted a picture to the RV-list photo share
Dave Aronson
Rv4 n504rv
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> I am interested in mounting a brake reservoir to the
> pilot pedals. Anyone have a picture of this?
>
> Can't seem to get in to rv-8.com - someone had
> mentioned there might be a picture there.
>
> Thanks
> Dag
Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few
hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move.
Sorry for the delay,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
do not archive
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stereo Headsets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
snip
> If you want the system to work with either stereo or mono headsets you must
> either have two jacks, stereo and mono, or use an inline adapter.
> If you don't have stereo in the airplane then just install the standard mono
> jacks and keep an adapter handy for stereo headsets.
>
> Dave
> RV6 SoCal, EAA Technical Counselor
I have a mono/stereo switch above the jack in the panther. I assume it isolates
one channel in the mono mode to prevent the short. Dunno, but it works great
and no extra jacks or adapters.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr@petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV or Rocket????? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
Mr. Leather,
The choice depends a lot on the individual. Why don't you
tell us more about yourself and what you want in an airplane.
Pilot performance comfort level, type of flying planned, airplane
budget, location to be based at, etc. Me and possibly others
would like more info before getting into a debate.
Happy with my RV-8. Really like the F1 Rocket.
Do Not Archive
George Meketa
RV8, N444TX, 254.8 hours
> Help!!!!
>
> OK guys, I think I have decided on tandem over side by side. The RV7 is
sweet, but I know that I'll be alone 90% of the time, just like now, in my
spam can. Given that, the RV8 is the logical choice because of the advanced
kit (over the RV4) and the fact that I'm 6'3" and 250 lbs.
>
> Now, I would like to ask all RV8/8A builders, past and present, why did
you choose the RV over a Harmon Rocket or an F1 Rocket?
>
> Also, if there are any Rocket builders lurking out there, what made you
decide to go with your rocket over the RV8/8A?
>
> I'm not looking to start a war, I really just want to hear a well thought
out debate from those who know more than I do, (read "anyone who has begun
the process of doing what I'm about to do").
>
> TIA
> DOC
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Radio Rack Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Countersink then dimple. Works easy, comes out flush and all is well!
I used hardware a bit smaller than 3/16 though, 8-32 is more than enough.
Good Luck,
Stein Bruch, RV6 (Too much snow on the runway to fly without ski's),
Minneapolis
--> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor"
<edwardoconnor@compuserve.com>
I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30 com/nav in my
RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument panel and have drilled the
angle to attach the racks to it. The instructions indicate to use hardware
with a low profile so as to allow the radios to slid in without
interference. I have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too
much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or the head is too
big around and will not fit down in the slot in the rack and causes
interference. What have others used to mount the racks to the .063 angle?
I tried button head bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe
there is not a better (and easier) way.
RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and
auto pilot.
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Alternative Subaru |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Listers...
For those who may be interested, there are new pix of the beautifully crafted
NSI 2.5 Subaru aero engine at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/E-SubieForum/ Go
to the left and click on "photos". You will also see previously posted pix of
the also finely crafted Eggenfellner Subaru.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
RV6a 60-95
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: RV or Rocket????? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Schnebeck" <schnebeck@attbi.com>
Friday I had the opportunity to ride in a Harmon Rocket. What a sweet flying
plane. Tommy Gummo gave me a grand tour of the Apple Valley. Thanks Tom, I
had a great time.
The plane has great performance and was very smooth in all attitudes. :)
When it was over I was speechless, I have never had so much fun flying ...
Now I need to find a partner in the Seattle area to build and fly a Rocket -
What a great aircraft.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV or Rocket?????
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
> Help!!!!
>
> OK guys, I think I have decided on tandem over side by side. The RV7 is
sweet, but I know that I'll be alone 90% of the time, just like now, in my
spam can. Given that, the RV8 is the logical choice because of the advanced
kit (over the RV4) and the fact that I'm 6'3" and 250 lbs.
>
> Now, I would like to ask all RV8/8A builders, past and present, why did
you choose the RV over a Harmon Rocket or an F1 Rocket?
>
> Also, if there are any Rocket builders lurking out there, what made you
decide to go with your rocket over the RV8/8A?
>
> I'm not looking to start a war, I really just want to hear a well thought
out debate from those who know more than I do, (read "anyone who has begun
the process of doing what I'm about to do").
>
> TIA
> DOC
>
>
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Will...
A bandsaw in my opinion is one of the indispensable tools you will need all
through your project. Get the largest one in terms of throat depth your
budget will allow, you won't be sorry. I use metal working blades in mine but
have been told that the small toothed wood blades work well also.
I bought my snips from Avery after finding out the ones from Sears were not
up to the task. They are as good today as they were two years ago.
The steel rule for $30? Can you spell "Harbor Freight"? :) Don't know where
North Bend, WA is, but these are the kinds of things you can purchase for no
more than $5 from HF if you have one in the vicinity. If not, try
harborfreight.com. Also, all that stuff can be purchased on eBay for a
fraction. And, don't forget Boeing Surplus in Kent, WA. Hope this helps,
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
RV6a/70-90
In a message dated 2/16/03 12:02:39 AM, rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
<< Time: 11:35:07 PM PST US
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: HS-404 trim
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@attbi.com>
Actually I have a few questions here.
What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a
band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this
cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they
seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at
Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from
home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft
tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel
ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more
reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch?
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV-8 emp. >>
Message 45
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| Subject: | It's finally in my garage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
What a weekend. A buddy flew me and another buddy down to Vans Thursday night for
the home wing meeting and so I could drive my 7A home. My 7A was sitting at
will-call ("will-call Daniel" written on the firewall) so everyone at the meeting
had a chance to stand around and look at it.
I couldn't sleep the night before, the night after or last night. My wife accused
me of having sex with it last night! Anyway, wings in the cradle and shop is
in order after two long days so now I can get back to building tomorrow.
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA.
7A QB and finish kit in the garage now!
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