---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 02/16/03: 45 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:57 AM - Re: HS-404 trim (Kyle Boatright) 2. 06:45 AM - Re: RV8-List: HS-404 trim (Lloyd) 3. 07:10 AM - Re: HS-404 trim (Mark Phillips) 4. 07:23 AM - A Handy Hint. (cecilth@juno.com) 5. 07:23 AM - > Re:HS - 404 Trim (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 6. 08:17 AM - Re: > Re:HS - 404 Trim (Tedd McHenry) 7. 08:18 AM - Re: HS-404 trim (Elsa & Henry) 8. 08:30 AM - test (Bill Marvel) 9. 08:37 AM - Re: Pictures of RV10 (Jerry) 10. 08:52 AM - Re: Pictures of RV10 (Jerry Springer) 11. 09:52 AM - Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (dag adamson) 12. 10:28 AM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Randy Lervold) 13. 10:38 AM - RV get together. (Dana Overall) 14. 11:03 AM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Jeff Point) 15. 11:55 AM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Randy Lervold) 16. 12:35 PM - Missaligned holes (Bert Forero) 17. 12:38 PM - Scotch Brite (Chris) 18. 12:41 PM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Chris) 19. 01:11 PM - Re: Scotch Brite (Cy Galley) 20. 02:39 PM - Re: Misaligned holes (Rick Galati) 21. 03:45 PM - Tire tube (Tim) 22. 03:54 PM - Stereo Headsets (Jim Bean) 23. 04:27 PM - Re: Tire tube (Randy Lervold) 24. 04:31 PM - Re: Tire tube (Joe Hine) 25. 04:56 PM - Making an inexpensive dimmer - audio taper or linear taper resistor? (dag adamson) 26. 05:05 PM - Re: Stereo Headsets (Pete Elia) 27. 05:41 PM - Re: Tire tube (Gary Zilik) 28. 06:11 PM - Re: Stereo Headsets (Dave Bristol) 29. 06:28 PM - Re: Tire tube (Cy Galley) 30. 06:28 PM - Re: Tire tube (Cy Galley) 31. 07:10 PM - Re: HS-404 trim (Robert McCallum) 32. 07:25 PM - Electric DG with Heading Bug (PeterHunt1@aol.com) 33. 08:59 PM - Radio Rack Hardware (Edward O'Connor) 34. 09:21 PM - Re: Radio Rack Hardware (Bill Marvel) 35. 09:25 PM - Re: Radio Rack Hardware (Jerry Springer) 36. 09:25 PM - Hartwell Latch Model H-4600 (Edward O'Connor) 37. 09:29 PM - Re: Radio Rack Hardware (Larry Bowen) 38. 09:34 PM - Re: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (David Aronson) 39. 09:52 PM - Re: Stereo Headsets (Doug Rozendaal) 40. 09:58 PM - Re: RV or Rocket????? (Meketa) 41. 10:02 PM - Re: Radio Rack Hardware (Stein Bruch) 42. 10:36 PM - Alternative Subaru (Jerry2DT@aol.com) 43. 10:39 PM - Re: RV or Rocket????? (John Schnebeck) 44. 11:05 PM - Bandsaw, etc. (Jerry2DT@aol.com) 45. 11:11 PM - It's finally in my garage (Karie Daniel) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:57:05 AM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: Re: RV-List: HS-404 trim --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" As far as I can tell, snips are snips. Home Depot and Lowes both carry the same centerpunches, circle cutters, snips, etc. that are offered by most of the aviation tool vendors. A steel rule is nice, but for most of my airplane I used a tape measure or whatever ruler happened to be close by. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Will & Lynda Allen" Subject: RV-List: HS-404 trim > --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" > > Actually I have a few questions here. > > What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a > band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this > cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they > seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at > Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from > home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft > tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel > ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more > reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch? > > -Will Allen > North Bend, Wa > RV-8 emp. > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:45:34 AM PST US From: Lloyd Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: HS-404 trim --> RV-List message posted by: Lloyd When trimming Al sheet, try this. Make your cut in three passes. The first 1/4" away from the line you desire. The second at 1/8" away from the line and the last near, but still not on the line. Then finish with a file. The reason for this progression is that on the first cut small ripples will remain on the good piece due to the strength of the discard. The smaller second cut will result in almost no ripple and the third will produce a curl on the discard and no ripple. After finish filing the you'll have a perfect edge. As too files; Course files like body files are great. They never load up. File files require constant brushing with the wire side of a file card to cut cleanly. Chrome plated medium single cut bastards are the great as well. Tom Lloyd N842TL -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Will & Lynda Allen Subject: RV8-List: HS-404 trim --> RV8-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" Actually I have a few questions here. What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch? -Will Allen North Bend, Wa RV-8 emp. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:10:01 AM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: Re: RV-List: HS-404 trim --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips Regarding cutting & measuring weapons: The only thing you will regret about a band saw is it not working when you need it- get the biggest throat you can afford and NEVER let anything harder than aluminum touch its blade. A thin cutoff wheel in a die grinder also makes for dandy cuts (Norton #A60-OBNA2), as does them itty-bitty wheels you can get for you Dremel tool (re-inforced wheels only #426 or #456- them other ones just love to come apart at the worst time!) I've got L, R & std. snips from Wiss that work nicely (but I use my bandsaw a WHOLE lot more!), but on advice here on the list (IIRC) I ground away most of the teeth to do less damage to the edge when cutting. The real secret to using these things is to progressively cut closer to your final line to eliminate warping the edge- make your next to last cut 1/8" or less from your final trim and you will get a very nice edge, & if you're REALLY anal, only trim within a smidgen of your line and file it the rest of the way. This has worked for me, anyway... El cheapo aluminum "yardsticks" are only a few bux and a lot more accurate than my eyes- I've got a 3 and a 4 footer and use them for everything from clamping onto ribs to line stuff up, using as a rip fence on my bandsaw, retrieving that screw I dropped on the floor, and oh yeah- measuring stuff too! 8-) Hope this helps & have fun! From The PossumWorks in TN Mark Will & Lynda Allen wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" > > Actually I have a few questions here. > > What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a > band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this > cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they > seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at > Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from > home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft > tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel > ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more > reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch? > > -Will Allen > North Bend, Wa > RV-8 emp. > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:23:11 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: A Handy Hint. From: cecilth@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com Have an old tape measure laying around? I did, I had a broken one. I cut that sucker up into many pieces. I have them all over the shop. 4 inch, 12 inch and 24 inch pieces. Always easy to find one when I need to measure something. Cecil > As far as I can tell, snips are snips. Home Depot and Lowes both > carry the > same centerpunches, circle cutters, snips, etc. that are offered by > most of > the aviation tool vendors. > > A steel rule is nice, but for most of my airplane I used a tape > measure or > whatever ruler happened to be close by. > > KB > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:23:11 AM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: > Re:HS - 404 Trim --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com I bought a bandsaw ( Upright or Horizontal ) from Harbor freight Tools in 1982 while working on our first RV-4 . I have now completed the second RV-4 using it . The $ 199 price seems OK to me. Free shipping on over $50 orders. An extra wood cutting blade on hand would forestall delays. The left and right cutting snips are good for situations where there is NO other way to make a cut. They leave serrated edges which must be filed to smooth. They are necessary though. I don't know prices on other brands of bandsaws , so you'll need to shop. You will use it a lot though. I have a 6" belt sander on my tool bench which is also indespensable , I use it more than any other tool. I use a hardware store 36" aluminum yardstick for straightedge , and a 12" sheared aluminum straightedge . These have served well in building both planes. Good Luck, Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now Charleston, Arkansas "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers" ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:17:36 AM PST US From: Tedd McHenry Subject: Re: RV-List: > Re:HS - 404 Trim --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry I bought two tools that were really worth the money. The first is a cheap pneumatic nibbler, which I got on sale at House of Tools (Canada) for, oh, I forget, but not much. Maybe twenty or thirty bucks. It's great for that first pass 1/4" away from the line. The second is a used Sears bandsaw. I got it for CDN$350 (about US$220). It's a well-made tool with a 16" throat, and the mechanism tilts while the table, which is mounted on a large roller cabinet, stays horizontal. That's a feature you don't see much anymore, but I love it. --- Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC -6 wings DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:18:18 AM PST US From: "Elsa & Henry" Subject: Re: RV-List: HS-404 trim --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" In 1994 I ordered the complete kit and while waiting for delivery, I made a bunch of home made tools including a mandrel with a handle for the cut-off wheels. I had visited another builder who was at the fuselage stage trimming his canopy plexi using the cut-off wheels supplied by Van's in the kit, driving them with a die-grinder as shown in the manual. I didn't think that was a good way, so hence my tool. These cut-off wheels are 3'' dia., .045" thk. and mounted in 1/4" mandrel screwed into a 4 1/2" long shaft with the handle running in bearings proved to be (for me) the best way to trim aluminum sheet. No snip marks and final clean-up done with a hand held belt sander or palm sander using 100 grit paper. Cutting aluminum with those discs does wear them down rather fast but so what? I did all the plexi trimming using the above tool and it was great to guide the cut-off wheel on line, driven by a hand drill at speed reduced by a variac. Funnily, for all the plexi trimming done, the cut-off wheel was reduced only 1/4" off its 3" diameter! Cheers!!----Henry Hore ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:30:55 AM PST US From: Bill Marvel Subject: RV-List: test --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel test -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:37:42 AM PST US From: "Jerry" Subject: Re: RV-List: Pictures of RV10 --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" Do you know what their plans for the top section may be. I am sure they will have a rollover structure instead of just plexiglass. It is really looking like a nice plane, any indication on a completion date. Looks like it may be my next project. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Wessel" Subject: RV-List: Pictures of RV10 > --> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" > > Listers- > > I put some pictures of the RV10 taken at a recent Van's Homewing meeting > last week. > > enjoy- > http://robin.getbiz.net/rv10.htm > > Robin Wessel > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:52:20 AM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Pictures of RV10 --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer Van told me he "hoped" to have it at Oshkosh. Jerry Springer do not archive Jerry wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" > > Do you know what their plans for the top section may be. I am sure they will > have a rollover structure instead of just plexiglass. It is really looking > like a nice plane, any indication on a completion date. Looks like it may be > my next project. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Robin Wessel" > To: > Subject: RV-List: Pictures of RV10 > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" >> >>Listers- >> >>I put some pictures of the RV10 taken at a recent Van's Homewing meeting >>last week. >> >>enjoy- >>http://robin.getbiz.net/rv10.htm >> >>Robin Wessel >> >> > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:52:05 AM PST US From: dag adamson Subject: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals --> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson Hello- I am interested in mounting a brake reservoir to the pilot pedals. Anyone have a picture of this? Can't seem to get in to rv-8.com - someone had mentioned there might be a picture there. Thanks Dag ===== ***************** Dag Adamson 617 513 1182 Cambridge, MA Grand Junction, CO ***************** ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 10:28:45 AM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > I am interested in mounting a brake reservoir to the > pilot pedals. Anyone have a picture of this? > > Can't seem to get in to rv-8.com - someone had > mentioned there might be a picture there. > > Thanks > Dag Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move. Sorry for the delay, Randy Lervold www.rv-8.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 10:38:04 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RV-List: RV get together. --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" Nice try for those 11 RV pilots who intended to show up at the little KY RV get together. Those who showed up were obviously all drivers with the ran we have had............seems no one has an Ark they are currently building. After talking with Chuck, a 6 builder from Frankfort........man, I feel sorry for you 6 builders:-) Sorry, just had to say that. For those who think a jigless emp. can't be straight, Jim Combs shot a laser line through his 8 HS elevator brackets.....dead nuts straight, built on a bench. Looks like the northern half of KY is under an inch of ice. Richmond, where I live is the demarcation line of the ice.......this is a shot of off one of my neighbors driveway. Sorry for the non issue RV post but it sure is nice to hangar fly with a bunch of RV guys. Had a great time with the people who did drive in. Dana Overall Richmond, KY http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 11:03:55 AM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point Dang, I hoped it was down while you updated the prop testing page. How's the testing going? Jeff Point Milwaukee WI Randy Lervold wrote: Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move. > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 11:55:53 AM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" That too, although it might be mon/tues for that addition... do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Point" Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals > --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point > > Dang, I hoped it was down while you updated the prop testing page. > How's the testing going? > > Jeff Point > Milwaukee WI > > Randy Lervold wrote: > > Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few > hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move. > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 12:35:07 PM PST US From: "Bert Forero" Subject: RV-List: Missaligned holes --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" Hi: On the top front skin, I found I have a few holes that are not aligned, to the ribs as I should have done. To correct these errors, I can put rivets on them after removing the dimples..but then I have to filed the shop heads, so that skin lays flat etc.. I was thinking to use, J>B weld, and then sand but I do not think it will work, as the skin is so thin, there is not enough surface... So that is it, Of course, I could buy a new skin at the pop of $52.00 or so plus Vans shipping, which they will charge probably $100.00 for it... Any other suggestions Bert rv6a Starting canopy Do Not Archive Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:38:02 PM PST US From: Chris Subject: RV-List: Scotch Brite --> RV-List message posted by: Chris I was browsing through my MSC catalog today and noticed a 7447 and 7448 scotch brite pads that were both maroon, 6"x9", sold 20 per box, and both listed as "very fine" so I couldn't help but wonder what the difference was. So I went to 3M's web site (what a mess you can't find anything there worth knowing) so I thought I would ask the list if anyone here knows. BTW the 7447 is $0.89 each and the 8447 is $1.03 each. And in case you were wondering, no I am not dyslexic, I do mean 8447 not 7448 which is light gray and "ultra fine" do not archive -- Chris Woodhouse 3147 SW 127th St. Oklahoma City, OK 73170 405-691-5206 (home) chrisw@programmer.net N35 20.492' W97 34.342' ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 12:41:25 PM PST US From: Chris Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals --> RV-List message posted by: Chris Randy Lervold wrote: > Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few > hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move. > > Sorry for the delay, > Randy Lervold > www.rv-8.com > do not archive I have seen it take a few days for DNS records to propagate across the web before, if you know the IP address Dag could use that to get on the site now. do not archive -- Chris Woodhouse 3147 SW 127th St. Oklahoma City, OK 73170 405-691-5206 (home) chrisw@programmer.net N35 20.492' W97 34.342' ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 01:11:58 PM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotch Brite --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" Could it be the size? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris" Subject: RV-List: Scotch Brite > --> RV-List message posted by: Chris > > I was browsing through my MSC catalog today and noticed a 7447 and 7448 > scotch brite pads that were both maroon, 6"x9", sold 20 per box, and > both listed as "very fine" so I couldn't help but wonder what the > difference was. So I went to 3M's web site (what a mess you can't find > anything there worth knowing) so I thought I would ask the list if > anyone here knows. BTW the 7447 is $0.89 each and the 8447 is $1.03 > each. And in case you were wondering, no I am not dyslexic, I do mean > 8447 not 7448 which is light gray and "ultra fine" > > do not archive > > -- > Chris Woodhouse > 3147 SW 127th St. > Oklahoma City, OK 73170 > 405-691-5206 (home) > chrisw@programmer.net > N35 20.492' > W97 34.342' > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 02:39:51 PM PST US From: "Rick Galati" Subject: RV-List: RE: Misaligned holes --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" On the top front skin, I found I have a few holes that are not aligned, to the ribs as I should have done. To correct these errors, I can put rivets on them after removing the dimples..but then I have to filed the shop heads, so that skin lays flat etc.. I was thinking to use, J B weld, and then sand but I do not think it will work, as the skin is so thin, there is not enough surface... So that is it, Of course, I could buy a new skin at the pop of $52.00 or so plus Vans shipping, which they will charge probably $100.00 for it... Any other suggestions Bert Bert, Without seeing the actual condition you are talking about, I would suggest it may be possible to rivet angle stock ( example: 3/4"X3/4" .032) to the affected rib to pick up the errant holes in the skin. You would cut away the affected portion of the rib FLANGE where the misalignment exists and rivet this repair stock in place on the rib WEB in the area of non conformance, maintaining surface flushness with the remaining rib flange. You now have effectively created a new undrilled rib flange. Alternatively, you can simply saddle this repair angle underneath the affected area, again riveting one side of the angle stock to the web. Install skin and drill into repair material. But if you do it this way, be sure to file away the sharp edges off the double drilled holes you will have created. Forget the JB Weld, that's wishful thinking. Rick Galati --- rick07x@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 03:45:19 PM PST US From: Tim Subject: RV-List: Tire tube --> RV-List message posted by: Tim Well, judging by the lack of hits on my archive searching, I must be the only one that has never seen a tire tube with this much hardware on it. So the tire tube that came with my finishing kit has a metal inflation valve with two threaded portions. The metal tube at the point where it enteres the rubber has a few threads. It then bends 90 deg, and has some more threads on the end. Screwed onto the threads were a metal cap (I understand that one :-)), a brass colored hex nut, a thin, chromed (jam?) nut, and a chromed washer. OK, so after looking at the wheel, it is apparent that the inflation tube goes through a hole in the hub and through a grommet in the side of the wheel half. But what the heck is all this other hardware for? Does the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the wheel somehow? Thanks, - Tim. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:54:52 PM PST US From: Jim Bean Subject: RV-List: Stereo Headsets --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean I would like to wire my plane so that either mono or stereo headsets can be used. What plug/jack is used for stereo? I'me gessing its a tip-ring-sleeve version of the same diameter jack as the mono. Do you have to put in both jacks or what? Jim Bean building RV-8 ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:27:02 PM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire tube --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" Tim, the nuts/washers are not needed for the wheels Van's provides, toss 'em. Randy Lervold RV-8, 295 hrs www.rv-8.com (down right now) > So the tire tube that came with my finishing kit > has a metal inflation valve with two threaded portions. > The metal tube at the point where it enteres the rubber > has a few threads. It then bends 90 deg, and has some > more threads on the end. > > Screwed onto the threads were a metal cap (I understand > that one :-)), a brass colored hex nut, a thin, chromed > (jam?) nut, and a chromed washer. > > OK, so after looking at the wheel, it is apparent that > the inflation tube goes through a hole in the hub and > through a grommet in the side of the wheel half. But > what the heck is all this other hardware for? Does > the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the > wheel somehow? > > Thanks, > - Tim. ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 04:31:18 PM PST US From: "Joe Hine" Subject: RE: RV-List: Tire tube --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" - Does the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the wheel somehow? Thanks, - Tim. In a word Tim Yes . They are not like car tube, where the valve just sticks through the wheel. Go to the Dressler (sp?) tire web site, they have a good section on tire and tube maintainance. You can get to it through Doug Reeves site. Joe Hine ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 04:56:29 PM PST US From: dag adamson Subject: RV-List: Making an inexpensive dimmer - audio taper or linear taper resistor? --> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson Hello- I am use a simple dimmer out of a couple of transistors and a pot to make a panel dimmer. Should I use an audio taper or a linear taper potentiometer? -Dag ===== ***************** Dag Adamson 617 513 1182 Cambridge, MA Grand Junction, CO ***************** ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:05:25 PM PST US From: "Pete Elia" Subject: Re: RV-List: Stereo Headsets --> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Elia" Jim, You are correct, the plug/jack for stereo use is a tip-ring-sleeve. Tip is + Ring is - and sleeve is ground. For mono use, the tip and ring are simply tied together - no extra jack is needed. A mono plug in a stereo jack will simply do this by its tip physically touching both the ring and sleeve. Most headsets have a stereo/mono selector where it passively ties the tip and ring signals together. My understanding of this comes from the world of audio production, so double check if there is any unusual variation in aviation use. Pete E. Sierra Madre, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Bean Subject: RV-List: Stereo Headsets > --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean > > I would like to wire my plane so that either mono or stereo headsets can > be used. What plug/jack is used for stereo? I'me gessing its a > tip-ring-sleeve version of the same diameter jack as the mono. Do you > have to put in both jacks or what? > Jim Bean > building RV-8 > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 05:41:39 PM PST US From: Gary Zilik Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire tube --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik loose the hardware (except for the cap) and install the tube. All the extra hardware is not used in our application Gary Tim wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Tim > >Well, judging by the lack of hits on my archive >searching, I must be the only one that has never >seen a tire tube with this much hardware on it. > >So the tire tube that came with my finishing kit >has a metal inflation valve with two threaded portions. >The metal tube at the point where it enteres the rubber >has a few threads. It then bends 90 deg, and has some >more threads on the end. > >Screwed onto the threads were a metal cap (I understand >that one :-)), a brass colored hex nut, a thin, chromed >(jam?) nut, and a chromed washer. > >OK, so after looking at the wheel, it is apparent that >the inflation tube goes through a hole in the hub and >through a grommet in the side of the wheel half. But >what the heck is all this other hardware for? Does >the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the >wheel somehow? > >Thanks, >- Tim. > > > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 06:11:52 PM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Stereo Headsets --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol Don't connect the tip and ring together on the jack, if you do, and plug in a mono plug, the signal will be shorted to ground. The only place you can connect the tip and ring together is on the male plug on the headset itself and even then, (if you have a stereo system in the aircraft) you'll be shorting the left and right channels together. If you want the system to work with either stereo or mono headsets you must either have two jacks, stereo and mono, or use an inline adapter. If you don't have stereo in the airplane then just install the standard mono jacks and keep an adapter handy for stereo headsets. Dave RV6 SoCal, EAA Technical Counselor Pete Elia wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Elia" > > Jim, > You are correct, the plug/jack for stereo use is a tip-ring-sleeve. Tip is > + Ring is - and sleeve is ground. For mono use, the tip and ring are simply > tied together - no extra jack is needed. A mono plug in a stereo jack will > simply do this by its tip physically touching both the ring and sleeve. > Most headsets have a stereo/mono selector where it passively ties the tip > and ring signals together. ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 06:28:23 PM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire tube --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" NO! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Hine" Subject: RE: RV-List: Tire tube > --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" > > > - Does > the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the > wheel somehow? > > Thanks, > - Tim. > > In a word Tim Yes . They are not like car tube, where the valve just > sticks through the wheel. Go to the Dressler (sp?) tire web site, they have > a good section on tire and tube maintainance. You can get to it through > Doug Reeves site. > > Joe Hine > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 06:28:51 PM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire tube --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" They aren't needed! Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim" Subject: RV-List: Tire tube > --> RV-List message posted by: Tim > > Well, judging by the lack of hits on my archive > searching, I must be the only one that has never > seen a tire tube with this much hardware on it. > > So the tire tube that came with my finishing kit > has a metal inflation valve with two threaded portions. > The metal tube at the point where it enteres the rubber > has a few threads. It then bends 90 deg, and has some > more threads on the end. > > Screwed onto the threads were a metal cap (I understand > that one :-)), a brass colored hex nut, a thin, chromed > (jam?) nut, and a chromed washer. > > OK, so after looking at the wheel, it is apparent that > the inflation tube goes through a hole in the hub and > through a grommet in the side of the wheel half. But > what the heck is all this other hardware for? Does > the metal inflation tube need to be screwed down to the > wheel somehow? > > Thanks, > - Tim. > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 07:10:53 PM PST US From: Robert McCallum Subject: Re: RV-List: HS-404 trim --> RV-List message posted by: Robert McCallum Mark Phillips wrote: > > Regarding cutting & measuring weapons: > > The only thing you will regret about a band saw is it not working when you need > it- Granted > get the biggest throat you can afford Most definitely > and NEVER let anything harder than > aluminum touch its blade. Why not?? Mine cuts 4130, and stainless no problem. All you need is the proper blade and speed. A bi-metal blade from any good industrial supply house will handle most any material except perhaps hardened tool steel. Granted stainless requires a slower speed than aluminium but why should that be a problem?? It's not hard to use multi-step pulleys to regulate the speed. Bob McC DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 07:25:35 PM PST US From: PeterHunt1@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Electric DG with Heading Bug --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com Can anyone direct me to an ELECTRIC (not vacuum) DG with a "Heading Bug" to interface with my System 30 autopilot? Thanks in advance. Pete Hunt Clearwater, FL RV-6, Instrument panel ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 08:59:53 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Radio Rack Hardware From: "Edward O'Connor" --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30 com/nav in my RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument panel and have drilled the angle to attach the racks to it. The instructions indicate to use hardware with a low profile so as to allow the radios to slid in without interference. I have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or the head is too big around and will not fit down in the slot in the rack and causes interference. What have others used to mount the racks to the .063 angle? I tried button head bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe there is not a better (and easier) way. RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and auto pilot. ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 09:21:17 PM PST US From: Bill Marvel Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio Rack Hardware --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel Ed: 3/16 hardware? Are you planning on pulling 42 G's? I also installed a full UPS stack in my -8A. The machine screws that hold the racks to the angles attached to the back of the panel are 8/32 flat head screws as I recall, or possibly even 6/32. BTW, the same size screws have held the radios in my Grumman Tiger for the past 25 years. No need for overkill here. Use the flat head machine screw size that allows the radios to slide into the racks. Bill Marvel Back on the list again Edward O'Connor wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" > > I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30 com/nav in my > RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument panel and have drilled the > angle to attach the racks to it. The instructions indicate to use hardware > with a low profile so as to allow the radios to slid in without > interference. I have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too > much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or the head is too > big around and will not fit down in the slot in the rack and causes > interference. What have others used to mount the racks to the .063 angle? > I tried button head bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe > there is not a better (and easier) way. > RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and > auto pilot. > -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 09:25:32 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio Rack Hardware --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer Dimple and counter sink, 3/16 is probably a little larger than you needed. Jerry do not archive Edward O'Connor wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" > > I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30 com/nav in my > RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument panel and have drilled the > angle to attach the racks to it. The instructions indicate to use hardware > with a low profile so as to allow the radios to slid in without > interference. I have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too > much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or the head is too > big around and will not fit down in the slot in the rack and causes > interference. What have others used to mount the racks to the .063 angle? > I tried button head bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe > there is not a better (and easier) way. > RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and > auto pilot. > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 09:25:46 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Hartwell Latch Model H-4600 From: "Edward O'Connor" --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" I am looking for a source for the Hartwell latch H-4600. It is much lighter duty then the H-5100 all the catalogs list. I am using it for storage doors on compartments in the cockpit. It is much easier to push and reset as it uses a lighter spring and is slightly smaller. Anybody know who I might order some from or an alternate brand which is light duty? Thanks. Ed O'Connor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 09:29:36 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Radio Rack Hardware --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" I have the same radios in my RV-8 panel. I had to polish a very small amount off of the SS button head hex screws to get the radios to slide in. I couldn't come up with anything better either..... - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com 2003 - The year of flight! > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > Edward O'Connor > Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 12:04 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Radio Rack Hardware > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" > --> > > I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30 > com/nav in my RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument > panel and have drilled the angle to attach the racks to it. > The instructions indicate to use hardware with a low profile > so as to allow the radios to slid in without interference. I > have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too > much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or > the head is too big around and will not fit down in the slot > in the rack and causes interference. What have others used > to mount the racks to the .063 angle? I tried button head > bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe there is > not a better (and easier) way. RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek > Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and auto pilot. > > > ========== > Matronics Forums. > ========== > List members. > ========== > ========== > > > ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 09:34:13 PM PST US From: David Aronson Subject: RE: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals --> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson Randy: I posted a picture to the RV-list photo share Dave Aronson Rv4 n504rv -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > I am interested in mounting a brake reservoir to the > pilot pedals. Anyone have a picture of this? > > Can't seem to get in to rv-8.com - someone had > mentioned there might be a picture there. > > Thanks > Dag Dag, there are indeed pictures on www.rv-8.com, but it is down for a few hours (hopefully) while DNS records get updated due to a server move. Sorry for the delay, Randy Lervold www.rv-8.com do not archive --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. --- ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 09:52:39 PM PST US From: "Doug Rozendaal" Subject: Re: RV-List: Stereo Headsets --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" > > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol snip > If you want the system to work with either stereo or mono headsets you must > either have two jacks, stereo and mono, or use an inline adapter. > If you don't have stereo in the airplane then just install the standard mono > jacks and keep an adapter handy for stereo headsets. > > Dave > RV6 SoCal, EAA Technical Counselor I have a mono/stereo switch above the jack in the panther. I assume it isolates one channel in the mono mode to prevent the short. Dunno, but it works great and no extra jacks or adapters. Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal dougr@petroblend.com www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 09:58:29 PM PST US From: "Meketa" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV or Rocket????? --> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" Mr. Leather, The choice depends a lot on the individual. Why don't you tell us more about yourself and what you want in an airplane. Pilot performance comfort level, type of flying planned, airplane budget, location to be based at, etc. Me and possibly others would like more info before getting into a debate. Happy with my RV-8. Really like the F1 Rocket. Do Not Archive George Meketa RV8, N444TX, 254.8 hours > Help!!!! > > OK guys, I think I have decided on tandem over side by side. The RV7 is sweet, but I know that I'll be alone 90% of the time, just like now, in my spam can. Given that, the RV8 is the logical choice because of the advanced kit (over the RV4) and the fact that I'm 6'3" and 250 lbs. > > Now, I would like to ask all RV8/8A builders, past and present, why did you choose the RV over a Harmon Rocket or an F1 Rocket? > > Also, if there are any Rocket builders lurking out there, what made you decide to go with your rocket over the RV8/8A? > > I'm not looking to start a war, I really just want to hear a well thought out debate from those who know more than I do, (read "anyone who has begun the process of doing what I'm about to do"). > > TIA > DOC > > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 10:02:41 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Radio Rack Hardware --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Countersink then dimple. Works easy, comes out flush and all is well! I used hardware a bit smaller than 3/16 though, 8-32 is more than enough. Good Luck, Stein Bruch, RV6 (Too much snow on the runway to fly without ski's), Minneapolis --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" I am installing UPS slide in racks for an SL 70 and a SL 30 com/nav in my RV-8. I used .063 angle rivited to instrument panel and have drilled the angle to attach the racks to it. The instructions indicate to use hardware with a low profile so as to allow the radios to slid in without interference. I have tried several kinds of 3/16 hardware but all have too much head height and will not allow the radio to slide in or the head is too big around and will not fit down in the slot in the rack and causes interference. What have others used to mount the racks to the .063 angle? I tried button head bolts and ground down the heads but I can't believe there is not a better (and easier) way. RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Working on instruments and auto pilot. ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 10:36:40 PM PST US From: Jerry2DT@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Alternative Subaru --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com Listers... For those who may be interested, there are new pix of the beautifully crafted NSI 2.5 Subaru aero engine at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/E-SubieForum/ Go to the left and click on "photos". You will also see previously posted pix of the also finely crafted Eggenfellner Subaru. Jerry Cochran Wilsonville, OR RV6a 60-95 ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 10:39:40 PM PST US From: "John Schnebeck" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV or Rocket????? --> RV-List message posted by: "John Schnebeck" Friday I had the opportunity to ride in a Harmon Rocket. What a sweet flying plane. Tommy Gummo gave me a grand tour of the Apple Valley. Thanks Tom, I had a great time. The plane has great performance and was very smooth in all attitudes. :) When it was over I was speechless, I have never had so much fun flying ... Now I need to find a partner in the Seattle area to build and fly a Rocket - What a great aircraft. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. Leathers" Subject: RV-List: RV or Rocket????? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" > > Help!!!! > > OK guys, I think I have decided on tandem over side by side. The RV7 is sweet, but I know that I'll be alone 90% of the time, just like now, in my spam can. Given that, the RV8 is the logical choice because of the advanced kit (over the RV4) and the fact that I'm 6'3" and 250 lbs. > > Now, I would like to ask all RV8/8A builders, past and present, why did you choose the RV over a Harmon Rocket or an F1 Rocket? > > Also, if there are any Rocket builders lurking out there, what made you decide to go with your rocket over the RV8/8A? > > I'm not looking to start a war, I really just want to hear a well thought out debate from those who know more than I do, (read "anyone who has begun the process of doing what I'm about to do"). > > TIA > DOC > > ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 11:05:43 PM PST US From: Jerry2DT@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Bandsaw, etc. --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com Will... A bandsaw in my opinion is one of the indispensable tools you will need all through your project. Get the largest one in terms of throat depth your budget will allow, you won't be sorry. I use metal working blades in mine but have been told that the small toothed wood blades work well also. I bought my snips from Avery after finding out the ones from Sears were not up to the task. They are as good today as they were two years ago. The steel rule for $30? Can you spell "Harbor Freight"? :) Don't know where North Bend, WA is, but these are the kinds of things you can purchase for no more than $5 from HF if you have one in the vicinity. If not, try harborfreight.com. Also, all that stuff can be purchased on eBay for a fraction. And, don't forget Boeing Surplus in Kent, WA. Hope this helps, Jerry Cochran Wilsonville, OR RV6a/70-90 In a message dated 2/16/03 12:02:39 AM, rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes: << Time: 11:35:07 PM PST US From: "Will & Lynda Allen" Subject: RV-List: HS-404 trim --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" Actually I have a few questions here. What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch? -Will Allen North Bend, Wa RV-8 emp. >> ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 11:11:17 PM PST US From: "Karie Daniel" Subject: RV-List: It's finally in my garage --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" What a weekend. A buddy flew me and another buddy down to Vans Thursday night for the home wing meeting and so I could drive my 7A home. My 7A was sitting at will-call ("will-call Daniel" written on the firewall) so everyone at the meeting had a chance to stand around and look at it. I couldn't sleep the night before, the night after or last night. My wife accused me of having sex with it last night! Anyway, wings in the cradle and shop is in order after two long days so now I can get back to building tomorrow. Karie Daniel Sammamish, WA. 7A QB and finish kit in the garage now!