Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:46 AM - SL40 comm (Jim Nolan)
2. 05:44 AM - Re: Lajitas, TX (C. Rabaut)
3. 06:46 AM - Re: plexi (Bill Dube)
4. 06:58 AM - Rocket vs RV-8 (Frazier, Vincent A)
5. 07:29 AM - Re: Lajitas, TX (John Huft)
6. 07:38 AM - Re: My first oops (DAVID REEL)
7. 08:20 AM - 2000 RV6 for sale (Michael Brown)
8. 08:25 AM - More flight reports (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
9. 08:26 AM - Re: plexi (Elsa & Henry)
10. 08:47 AM - Re: Air box air seal photo (Randall Henderson)
11. 08:54 AM - Re: Grommets for firewall shields (Randall Henderson)
12. 08:57 AM - Re: 2000 RV6 for sale (Larry Hawkins)
13. 09:02 AM - Re: My first oops (HCRV6@aol.com)
14. 09:38 AM - Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Ken Brooks)
15. 09:46 AM - Re: Plenums (Richard Dudley)
16. 09:51 AM - Lajitas, TX (Ken Brooks)
17. 10:00 AM - Re: Plenums (Bruce Gray)
18. 10:03 AM - (George McNutt)
19. 10:44 AM - Re: My first oops (Rick Galati)
20. 11:59 AM - Wanted: Wooden Prop (RV_8 Pilot)
21. 12:13 PM - Aileron squeeze (N13eer@aol.com)
22. 12:48 PM - Re: Aileron squeeze (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
23. 01:10 PM - Re: Aileron squeeze (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
24. 01:17 PM - CHT Instrumentation (John H. Wiegenstein)
25. 02:37 PM - Re: Aileron squeeze (Tracy Crook)
26. 03:19 PM - Re: CHT Instrumentation (Kyle Boatright)
27. 03:19 PM - Re : CHT Instrumentation (Martin Hone)
28. 03:39 PM - missaligned holes (Bert Forero)
29. 04:29 PM - Re: Aileron squeeze (John Starn)
30. 05:12 PM - Re: Aileron squeeze (Elsa & Henry)
31. 05:54 PM - Primer notes (Rick Galati)
32. 06:17 PM - Re: RV-8 Adjustable rudder pedal problem was Looking (Charlie Kuss)
33. 06:33 PM - My first oops (David Taylor)
34. 06:40 PM - Re: Primer notes (Bill Marvel)
35. 06:46 PM - Re: Plenums (Ed Perry)
36. 07:19 PM - Re: RV-8 Adjustable rudder pedal problem was Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals (Gert)
37. 07:52 PM - wingtip tanks (jay pearlman)
38. 08:17 PM - Re: Grommets for firewall shields (Vanremog@aol.com)
39. 08:54 PM - Re: Aileron squeeze (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jimnolan@insightbb.com>
Listers,
Has anyone hooked up a SL40 comm to a 2001 nms GPS. I need to know the pinout
for the function that brings the comm frequencies from the GPS data base into
the SL40.
Thanks
Jim
N444JN
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Larry,
You do a lot of things... some you do well, but you sure are great at
making people crazy. This pictorial is obviously aimed at our poor snow
bound colleagues (direct hit).
do not archive (not my comments, but definitely archive Larry's 3-Day)
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
Subject: RV-List: Lajitas, TX
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
> Listers:
>
> Snapshots of my little weekend trip to Lajitas are at
>
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/Lajitas.htm
>
> For those of you in the snow, the temp was around 75 degrees. It was 79
> today in Carlsbad.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>I believe you can finish the edges by heating the entire piece evenly. My
>understanding is that it is the uneven heating that does the damage. Heat
>is used to form the plexi anyway.
That is correct. The whole piece must be warm and toasty so that
you don't induce thermal stresses. If you warm it too much, however, it
will distort or sag, so it is a tricky business.
As I said earlier, sanding and polishing is the more conservative
approach because you can't mess up. This makes it the "smarter" way to go
on an expensive piece like a canopy. Often, "flaming" is done incorrectly
and can cause hidden damage.
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP Also, if there are any Rocket builders lurking out there, what made you
> decide to go with your rocket over the RV8/8A? Snip
I built an RV-4 and it was awesome, but the cockpit is a bit small. I fly an RV-8A
and it is awesome. The RV-8A is nice but I just don't like that bouncy, short
coupled, tri-gear. The RV-8 gear towers make the cockpit small, the control
stick is too small and too far forward, and it isn't as pretty as the RV-4.
Then I got to fly a Rocket. It's faster, roomier, sexier, doesn't wag it's tail
in turbulence, and feels more solid in chop. The Rocket has it all right!
Vince Frazier
1946 Stinson, NC97535, flying FOR SALE
F-1H Rocket, "Six Shooter", N540VF reserved,
canopy installation stage
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <aflyer@direcway.com>
Thanks, Larry
If you read Larry's text, you might start to get some hints about the place.
We used to go down for New Year's every year with the Cessna 180/185 club.
It was a great little hole-in-the wall tourist trap. Built as an old-west
town replica, with boardwalks, saloon, etc. There was a gravel airstrip
within walking distance of town (the new jetport is 4 miles away). Rooms
were $60, lunch was priced normally, etc. We would always walk down to the
river (Rio Grande), and pay a boatman to row us across to go to lunch in a
little cafe, no sign of border guards etc. $1 roundtrip, pay on return so he
doesn't leave. Usually 25 to 30 airplanes would show for New Years, we hired
a band, and it grew into a big local event.
The new owner says he is going to turn it into "the Palm Springs of Texas".
I am told this year 4 skywagons showed up for New Years, we skipped it
because of the changes.
A few miles north is Terlingua Ranch. They have an airstrip and guest
cabins, and are very friendly and cheap. There are restaurants etc. Yes,
this is the home of the famous Terlingua chili cook-off which happens in the
fall. This is the Big Bend area of Texas, lots of touring, river rafting,
hiking etc.
It is real warm there in the summer.
John Huft
RV8, Pagosa Springs, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of C. Rabaut
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lajitas, TX
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Larry,
You do a lot of things... some you do well, but you sure are great at
making people crazy. This pictorial is obviously aimed at our poor snow
bound colleagues (direct hit).
do not archive (not my comments, but definitely archive Larry's 3-Day)
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
Subject: RV-List: Lajitas, TX
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
> Listers:
>
> Snapshots of my little weekend trip to Lajitas are at
>
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/Lajitas.htm
>
> For those of you in the snow, the temp was around 75 degrees. It was 79
> today in Carlsbad.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: My first oops |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Congratulations David! You've started down the right path by redoing the spar.
That's not dumb at all. What you're feeling is a big part of the educational
experience of homebuilding. I too thought I was 'better than that' until I
started making mistakes and learning things about myself from them. Stay curious
about your mistakes & welcome to the intense self knowledge laboratory that
is homebuilding.
Dave Reel
RV8A
Message 7
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| Subject: | 2000 RV6 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Brown" <michael.brown@pepperweed.com>
I'm selling my 2000 RV6. As hard as I try, I can't seem to get my entire
family (5 of us) into the `6 all at once.
N417G is a beautiful plane built by Randy Pflanzer from Indianapolis.
Randy is a regular on this list. It has a 160HP O320, fixed pitch prop,
full IFR gyros, HSI, GNS430 GPS/NAV/COM, electric trim, electric flaps.
$75,500
Please take a look at http://home.insightbb.com/~mbrown99/ for all of
the pictures and details. My contact information is on the website as
well. Be sure to look at the spec sheet as it has a more complete
listing of the equipment.
Thanks,
Michael
Message 8
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| Subject: | More flight reports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Well I've taken a 2nd, 3rd, and 4th flight in my RV-4. I'm still having a
ball! I finally got the heavy right wing ...mostly... fixed. I have a
little more squeezing to do it looks like. Now I need to add a trim tab
(chunk o' wood) to the rudder.
I'm noticing another problem though. Well, an annoyance anyway. When I am
in straight and level flight I notice that my airlerons are still deflected
by about =BE inch. Is this correctable? Any suggestions?
Some more numbers:
CHT: 190 C
Oil: 95 C
IAS: 140 KTS @ 23" MP
ROC: 2200 FPM @ 110 MPH
Catto prop
O320-D2A (160hp)
No gear leg or wheel fairings yet
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I used a machinist's Babbitt bearing scraper to polish the cut edges. This
scraper is made of clock- spring steel, about 3" wide and is ground
straight-on to a belt sander so that the "business edge" has burr that does
the scraping. It does a wonderful job as you pull it along a plexi edge,
shaving it to the point that the edge becomes transparent. Try it, you'll
like it!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Air box air seal photo |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> Can anyone refer me to a photo or two of the air seal installation
> on the air box for a RV-6?
try http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html#airbox
> Finally, in actual use, how do you guys that are passed this get the
> air seal around the air scoop extension when you put the lower
> cowling on?
After I get the cowl on the seal is usually smushed back by the scoop -- you
just use your finger to work it into place. Its flexible enough to do so
without much trouble.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Grommets for firewall shields |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> The trick to making anything made of rubber (either natural, nitrile
> or other) last forever is to coat it liberally (I know this will be
> difficult for you right-wingers but do it anyway ; ) when new with
> DC4 or DC111
Do you still use RTV to seal them up? Seems like it wouldn't stick. I know
its ugly but I've always throught it's important, so as to minimize how much
exhaust gasses can get into the cockpit.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 12
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| Subject: | 2000 RV6 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
Don't sell one, buy two more! :-)
Please Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Brown [mailto:michael.brown@pepperweed.com]
Subject: RV-List: 2000 RV6 for sale
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Brown"
<michael.brown@pepperweed.com>
I'm selling my 2000 RV6. As hard as I try, I can't seem to get my entire
family (5 of us) into the `6 all at once.
N417G is a beautiful plane built by Randy Pflanzer from Indianapolis.
Randy is a regular on this list. It has a 160HP O320, fixed pitch prop,
full IFR gyros, HSI, GNS430 GPS/NAV/COM, electric trim, electric flaps.
$75,500
Please take a look at http://home.insightbb.com/~mbrown99/ for all of
the pictures and details. My contact information is on the website as
well. Be sure to look at the spec sheet as it has a more complete
listing of the equipment.
Thanks,
Michael
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RE: RV-List: 2000 RV6 for sale
Don't sell one, buy two more! :-)
Please Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Brown [<A HREF"mailto:michael.brown@pepperweed.com">mailto:michael.brown@pepperweed.com]
Subject: RV-List: 2000 RV6 for sale
-- RV-List message posted by: Michael Brown michael.brown@pepperweed.com
I'm selling my 2000 RV6. As hard as I try, I can't seem to get my entire
family (5 of us) into the `6 all at once.
N417G is a beautiful plane built by Randy Pflanzer from Indianapolis.
Randy is a regular on this list. It has a 160HP O320, fixed pitch prop,
full IFR gyros, HSI, GNS430 GPS/NAV/COM, electric trim, electric flaps.
$75,500
Please take a look at <A HREF"http://home.insightbb.com/~mbrown99/" TARGET"_blank">http://home.insightbb.com/~mbrown99/
for all of
the pictures and details. My contact information is on the website as
well. Be sure to look at the spec sheet as it has a more complete
listing of the equipment.
Thanks,
Michael
DISCLAIMER: The information contained in this e-mail message may be privileged,
confidential and protected from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient,
any further disclosure, use, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. If you think you have received
this e-mail message in error, please e-mail the sender at the above address
and permanently delete the e-mail. Although this e-mail and any attachments
are believed to be free of any virus or other defect that might affect any
computer system into which they are received and opened, it is the responsibility
of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free and no responsibility
is accepted by Giant Industries, Inc. or its affiliates for any loss or damage
arising in any way from their use.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: My first oops |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/17/03 9:40:57 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv7@cox.net
writes:
snip<< I thought for sure I'd get farther than this before my first screw up.
>>
David: One of the great things about building these airplanes is that it
keeps us humble (well, most of us anyway :-). It's way to early to be
discouraged, you have lots of oops to go yet. Wait until you have made the
same mistake for the third or fourth time, then it will be time to start
berating yourself. Cheers.
Pleeeze do not archive!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 14
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| Subject: | Looking for picture of brake reservoir on pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
In a recent discussion about the rudder pedal brake reservoirs, John
Huft made this comment to which I'd like to add my 2 cents-worth.
"I might worry about the reservoirs hitting the firewall if I had very
long legs, but at 5-11, I have lots of room."
Although John has the fixed rudder pedals in his beautifully built
RV-8, I am installing the adjustable pedals, since I'm 6'3" and my
partner Ed is 5'8". When we hooked up the rudder cables (we also have
the Rear Seat Pedals), the cable seemed too long. With the pedals one
click aft of full forward, the brake pedals and fluid reservoirs were
almost touching the firewall even before any deflection of the pedal!
Additionally, we had over a full inch of washers on the forward side of
the firewall trying to take up the slack in the cables (both pedals)!
Since I really need the pedals full-forward, this was unacceptable.
Much fussing and weeping followed, but here is the short version of the
long story.
We talked to Ken Krueger at Van's when we were at OSH last year and
he suggested we remove the cables and measure them to compare with their
specs. We did, and they were perfect in length. Hmmm... Ed and I
finally concluded that the "S" welds on the vertical rudder pedal
supports had been welded at the wrong angle, making it look like an
italic "S". This, in effect, "lengthened" the cables, even though they
were made to the proper specs. At any given point on the adjustable
pedal slide bar, this "cable lengthening effect" changed the geometry of
the brake pedal angle at the firewall -- shorten the cable, bring the
brake pedal aft. . .lengthen the cable, lean the brake pedal forward
(not good).
We removed the rudder/brake pedal assemblies and sent them to Van's
and Ken confirmed our suspicions about the "S" welds! He also agreed
that actually shortening the cable (in our case by 1.5"), would be just
as good a fix as replacing the rudder cable assemblies with properly
welded "S" bends. We had the reswaged cables and pedals back within 10
days, and it worked great. I can now stretch out my legs to the full
forward pedal position and the brake pedals have just enough room for
full pedal depression prior to contacting the firewall!
Has anyone else who is using the adjustable rudder pedals had this
or a similar problem? Ken was curious, but I hadn't read about any on
the -list. Sorry about the long post. By the way, Mr. Krueger was very
helpful and took this on in a personal way until we were satisfied --
pretty typical of Van's staff, in my opinion!
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Rigging ailerons and flaps - still shooting for end-of-year flight!
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Jim,
In trying to reach the link you cite in your post, I get an error
message that my browser cannot locate the server.
I, too am interested in a plenum.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Jim Norman wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
>
> I've got a carbon fiber plenum. Lots (and lots!!!) of work. Would make an
> aluminum one next time, but would definitely make a plenum.
> Photos at:
> http:www.steinair.com/jn
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Phillips
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Plenums
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Howdy list-
>
> I am researching plenum design & use and would appreciate any links or
> suggestions-
>
> Also, if anyone knows who owned or owns the yellow plane on the back of
> Tony Bingelis' On Engines, or anything about it, I would REALLY like to
> hear about it- talk about a gorgeous piece of work- just wondering how
> well it DID work...
>
> Thanks from the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark do not archive
>
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
Wow, Larry! 10 gals. of fuel for $2.70 -- I want some of that action!!
;-)
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Try
http://www.steinair.com/jn/
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Dudley
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plenums
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Jim,
In trying to reach the link you cite in your post, I get an error
message that my browser cannot locate the server.
I, too am interested in a plenum.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
In a message dated 2/17/2003 9:12:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, don@dmack.net
writes:
> I am planning on using Van's firewall shields for passing my cables
through
> the firewall. Where can I find plastic grommets to use with the shields? I
> looked at ACS, Wicks, etc. I want to avoid rubber as it will dry out and
> have to be replaced.
Hi Don
If we are talking throttle, mixture type cables go to an aircraft salvage
yard and see if you can liberate the firewall shields from a Beech Bonanza.
Aircraft Spruce have aluminum swivel eyeball assemblies for $26 (Page 152,
2001-2002 catalog). The Bonanza had a similiar setup with a bakelite swivel
eyeball and I cleaned off a whole firewall for $20.
The swivel allows cables to run through the firewall at an angle allowing
more flexibility with cable run, then seal eyeballs and all other
penetrations with pro-seal.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
6A - 117 hrs.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: My first oops |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Subject:
My first oops
From:
David Taylor (rv7@cox.net )
Date:
Mon Feb 17 - 9:36
PM
-- RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" rv7@cox.net
I finally did what I swore I wouldn't do. I measured twice and cut once and
still messed up. While cutting the flange for the HS 702 I got my figures mixed
up. I cut 5 3/4 rather than 5 3/16. I got the tab mixed up with the flange. I
called Vans and they thought it would probably be ok but said it had not been
tested with that much cut. I opted to order new spars. Man do I feel dumb about
right now. I thought for sure I'd get farther than this before my first screwup.
-David Taylor (N207DT reserved) Screwing up the empennage
Dave,
Don't beat up on yourself, you'll be dazed and bruised soon enough
anyway. There is dumb and there is dumber. Sometimes I
feel
like I'm building two airplanes. One came with the kit supplied
parts, and the other is purchased a piece at a time from Van's parts
list.
Rick Galati
Message 20
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| Subject: | Wanted: Wooden Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I'm posting this for a Mustang II owner friend of mine. Please contact him
directly if you can help.
Anyone have a spare prop for sale or loan to trouble shoot a vibration
problem, preferable a Warnke or Aymar Demuth for use on a 150hp Lyc with
7/16 inch prop bolts. Might could use a prop for a 160hp.
Thanks
Greg Bordelon
email: gbordelon@hess.com
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
I have been through the archives and there are comments on which aileron to squeeze
and what the effect is. But have seen post that says squeeze the heavy wing
and ones that say squeeze the light one. Which is it? In my case with the
spring trim centered, hands free the plane rolls to the left, which aileron
do I squeeze?
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8 11 hours, with a wedge taped under the right aileron so I can fly straight.
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Squeeze the OPPOSITE aileron. I'm still going through this. Works like a
charm.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: N13eer@aol.com [mailto:N13eer@aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Aileron squeeze
--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
I have been through the archives and there are comments on which aileron to
squeeze and what the effect is. But have seen post that says squeeze the
heavy wing and ones that say squeeze the light one. Which is it? In my
case with the spring trim centered, hands free the plane rolls to the left,
which aileron do I squeeze?
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8 11 hours, with a wedge taped under the right aileron so I can fly
straight.
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
I Squeezed the light wing.
Right side in my case.
My left was heavy.
I wrote mine down here:
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/flying/25hrreport/25hourreport.htm
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: N13eer@aol.com [mailto:N13eer@aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Aileron squeeze
--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
I have been through the archives and there are comments on which aileron to
squeeze and what the effect is. But have seen post that says squeeze the
heavy wing and ones that say squeeze the light one. Which is it? In my
case with the spring trim centered, hands free the plane rolls to the left,
which aileron do I squeeze?
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8 11 hours, with a wedge taped under the right aileron so I can fly
straight.
Message 24
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| Subject: | CHT Instrumentation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John H. Wiegenstein" <johnw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
In considering engine instrumentation I am planning on using the RMI
MicroMonitor, but have not decided whether to monitor one CHT or all 4.
As the number of RV-6's with Van's supplied engines (or otherwise stock
Lycomings) and FWF kits grows, it would seem to me that there might be some
data developed to show which cylinder runs hottest in these "standardized"
(relatively) installations. Does anyone know of any info on this, so that
I could pin down the right cylinder to measure without doing my own test
program? TIA
John H. Wiegenstein
HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC
19301 - 8th Avenue NE, Suite A
Poulsbo, WA 98370
(360) 394-3500
(360) 394-3503 FAX
johnw@hellerwiegenstein.com
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron squeeze |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <N13eer@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron squeeze
> --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
>
> I have been through the archives and there are comments on which aileron
to squeeze and what the effect is. But have seen post that says squeeze the
heavy wing and ones that say squeeze the light one. Which is it? In my
case with the spring trim centered, hands free the plane rolls to the left,
which aileron do I squeeze?
>
> Alan Kritzman
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8 11 hours, with a wedge taped under the right aileron so I can fly
straight.
To keep it straight in my head I think of the phrase "Squeeze a wing down"
.
Tracy Crook
RV-4 1300+
RV-8 Canopy (yuck)
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: CHT Instrumentation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Information in the archives indicates that the back two cylinders are the
warmest, with #3 being hottest, with all other things equal. On my aircraft
there is a spread, with #'s 1 and 2 being coolest by 15+/- degrees, followed
by #3, then #4 (adjacent to the baffle mounted oil cooler) which is hotter
than #3 by about 25 degrees.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "John H. Wiegenstein" <johnw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
Subject: RV-List: CHT Instrumentation
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John H. Wiegenstein"
<johnw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
>
> In considering engine instrumentation I am planning on using the RMI
> MicroMonitor, but have not decided whether to monitor one CHT or all 4.
> As the number of RV-6's with Van's supplied engines (or otherwise stock
> Lycomings) and FWF kits grows, it would seem to me that there might be
some
> data developed to show which cylinder runs hottest in these "standardized"
> (relatively) installations. Does anyone know of any info on this, so
that
> I could pin down the right cylinder to measure without doing my own test
> program? TIA
>
> John H. Wiegenstein
> HELLER WIEGENSTEIN PLLC
> 19301 - 8th Avenue NE, Suite A
> Poulsbo, WA 98370
> (360) 394-3500
> (360) 394-3503 FAX
> johnw@hellerwiegenstein.com
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re : CHT Instrumentation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
John,
I asked a similar question recently. It is generally considered that # 3 cylinder
runs hottest (right rear) but there are many factors to consider. CHT's are
affected, to varying degrees depending on angle of attack and airspeed, by throttle
position and mixture and baffle design. Unless all cylinders are monitored,
it is impossible to say which cylinder is hottest at any one time.
Cheers
Martin
Message 28
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| Subject: | missaligned holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hello:
I have a few missaligned holes on the top front
skin.
Best way to fix? fill with rivets, but i had to
filed them so sking be flush...
Tought of J.B weld, not good, skin too thin..
Any other suggestions..
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
Working on canopy
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron squeeze |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Just another thought. We had a heavy wing and used the "squeeze" method.
Works great, takes VERY, VERY little. If you can see it, it's too much. We
used a sheet metal tool called a duck bill, lined the face of the blades
with duct tape (what else). The tool looks more like a "hammerhead shark",
about 5" wide 1 1/2" deep. Look for them where you buy sheet metal hand
cutters. This method is outlined in the 21 years of RVator book. If your
have, are building or thinking about building an RV (or one of its
derivatives) you NEED this book. Do Not Archive. HRII 561FS KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aileron squeeze
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
<svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
> Squeeze the OPPOSITE aileron. I'm still going through this. Works like a
> charm.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> Network Manager
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N13eer@aol.com [mailto:N13eer@aol.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Aileron squeeze
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
>
> I have been through the archives and there are comments on which aileron
to
> squeeze and what the effect is. But have seen post that says squeeze the
> heavy wing and ones that say squeeze the light one. Which is it? In my
> case with the spring trim centered, hands free the plane rolls to the
left,
> which aileron do I squeeze?
>
> Alan Kritzman
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8 11 hours, with a wedge taped under the right aileron so I can fly
> straight.
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron squeeze |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I'll quote from an article that Van wrote in the August '92 Rvator:
"----The essential info is that lateral balance can be achieved by
decreasing the trailing edge radius of the aileron on the light wing. This
means that if the airplane has a left rolling tendency (heavy left wing),
decreasing the trailing edge radius on the right wing will make the right
wing heavier and bring it into balance.The reverse is true for a right
rolling tendency. On the flip side, increasing the radius of the trailing
edge of the aileron on the heavy wing will bring trim into balance.
It is obvious that squeezing the trailing edge will decrease the radius, but
how does one conveniently increase (un-squeeze) the trailing edge? There is
a simple but effective procedure; one which most sensitive, intelligent
builders find distasteful. Hit it with a hammer!!! Actually, the procedure
calls for holding a wooden block along the trailing edge and tapping it with
a hammer or similar heavy object. It usually doesn't require much force, so
no damage is done to the aileron"
Unquote.------- There is a wealth of info in those old RVators and my wife
says I have a terrific memory for what I have read. I go back to early 1992
form copies made from a very old builder.
Suggest that builder's groups print-out the above and disseminate it to
their members for posterity!
Cheers!!-------Henry Hore
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
What are you guys using to plug into the cylinders for your
primer system? The Orndorf "Systems" Video seems to indicate
simply installing AN 816-2 nipples into 3
cylinders. I would think that the primer should be atomized
before being
squirted into the
cylinders. So? Not so? Also, how many cylinders (0-320)
to run primer line to...one...two..three?
Feedback please.
Rick Galati
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Adjustable rudder pedal problem was Looking |
for picture of brake reservoir on pedals
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Ken,
Is there any way those of us who are not yet flying can determine the correct
"angle" of the S tube on our rudder pedals?
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>
> In a recent discussion about the rudder pedal brake reservoirs, John
>Huft made this comment to which I'd like to add my 2 cents-worth.
>
>"I might worry about the reservoirs hitting the firewall if I had very
>long legs, but at 5-11, I have lots of room."
>
> Although John has the fixed rudder pedals in his beautifully built
>RV-8, I am installing the adjustable pedals, since I'm 6'3" and my
>partner Ed is 5'8". When we hooked up the rudder cables (we also have
>the Rear Seat Pedals), the cable seemed too long. With the pedals one
>click aft of full forward, the brake pedals and fluid reservoirs were
>almost touching the firewall even before any deflection of the pedal!
>Additionally, we had over a full inch of washers on the forward side of
>the firewall trying to take up the slack in the cables (both pedals)!
>Since I really need the pedals full-forward, this was unacceptable.
>Much fussing and weeping followed, but here is the short version of the
>long story.
>
> We talked to Ken Krueger at Van's when we were at OSH last year and
>he suggested we remove the cables and measure them to compare with their
>specs. We did, and they were perfect in length. Hmmm... Ed and I
>finally concluded that the "S" welds on the vertical rudder pedal
>supports had been welded at the wrong angle, making it look like an
>italic "S". This, in effect, "lengthened" the cables, even though they
>were made to the proper specs. At any given point on the adjustable
>pedal slide bar, this "cable lengthening effect" changed the geometry of
>the brake pedal angle at the firewall -- shorten the cable, bring the
>brake pedal aft. . .lengthen the cable, lean the brake pedal forward
>(not good).
>
> We removed the rudder/brake pedal assemblies and sent them to Van's
>and Ken confirmed our suspicions about the "S" welds! He also agreed
>that actually shortening the cable (in our case by 1.5"), would be just
>as good a fix as replacing the rudder cable assemblies with properly
>welded "S" bends. We had the reswaged cables and pedals back within 10
>days, and it worked great. I can now stretch out my legs to the full
>forward pedal position and the brake pedals have just enough room for
>full pedal depression prior to contacting the firewall!
>
> Has anyone else who is using the adjustable rudder pedals had this
>or a similar problem? Ken was curious, but I hadn't read about any on
>the -list. Sorry about the long post. By the way, Mr. Krueger was very
>helpful and took this on in a personal way until we were satisfied --
>pretty typical of Van's staff, in my opinion!
>
>
>Ken Brooks
>
>Roscoe, IL
>
>Rigging ailerons and flaps - still shooting for end-of-year flight!
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
Thanks for all of the encouraging words. The new part is on order and I hope
to have it this weekend or the first part of next week. Now if I can figure out
how this darn rivet squeezer works :)
Do not archive
-David Taylor (N207DT reserved)
Warner Robins, GA
Starting the empennage
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Primer notes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
Rick:
You are correct that primer fuel ought to be atomized to best perform its
function. You can get all the primer hardware you need from Aircraft Spruce
(that is one I know of for certain). These fittings are in their catalog
right along with the AN fittings. The primer nozzle is part number AN4022-1
and the corresponding nut and cone that attach the tube to the nozzle are
AN805 and AN800 respectively. The cone does have to be soldered to the
tube, however. For $20 you can get everything you need for two cylinders.
Yes, all you need to do is two consecutive jugs. Your firing order is
1,3,2,4 in Lycs, so if you prime any two of those that are in that order (1
and 3 or 3 and 2 etc.) you will have plenty of priming to get the engine
running. One is not enough when it gets very cold; 3 is fine, as is all 4.
I have two in my O-360 on cylinders 3 and 2. They work fine.
A heads up from one who has been there. When you are starting in below
freezing temps, plan to do one more shot of prime as the engine fires. The
reason is that if you get too little prime in there, it will fire, create
enough moisture to freeze across the spark plug electrodes, and then stop.
You then have to pull the plugs to clean off the ice or put the plane into a
warm place to melt it.
Bill Marvel
-8A 185 hours in 10 months, getting ready for paint
Rick Galati wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
>
> What are you guys using to plug into the cylinders for your
> primer system? The Orndorf "Systems" Video seems to indicate
>
> simply installing AN 816-2 nipples into 3
> cylinders. I would think that the primer should be atomized
> before being
>
> squirted into the
> cylinders. So? Not so? Also, how many cylinders (0-320)
> to run primer line to...one...two..three?
>
> Feedback please.
>
> Rick Galati
>
> --- Rick Galati
>
> --- rick07x@earthlink.net
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
Message 35
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Perry" <eperry@san.rr.com>
I have an -8 with an aluminum plenum. I made the plenum to get the airloads
off the hinges for the cowling. I am hoping that it will add a few knots. I
have heard that this is a reasonable hope. Anyway I made mine in about a
week of straight work. I have a couple of pictures if you are
interested....
Ed Perry
eperry@san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: RV-List: Plenums
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Howdy list-
>
> I am researching plenum design & use and would appreciate any links or
> suggestions-
>
> Also, if anyone knows who owned or owns the yellow plane on the back of
> Tony Bingelis' On Engines, or anything about it, I would REALLY like to
> hear about it- talk about a gorgeous piece of work- just wondering how
> well it DID work...
>
> Thanks from the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark do not archive
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Adjustable rudder pedal problem was Looking for picture |
of brake reservoir on pedals
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
The way I found out was with the rudder installed and the cables tight
my rudder pedals were pointing forward. I installed the max amount of
washers that the threads would allow, still could not get the pedals to
stand up from leaning forward.
by the way, my kit is 80721, just wondering who else has this problem
and what kit # they have.
Gert
Charlie Kuss wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Ken,
> Is there any way those of us who are not yet flying can determine the correct
"angle" of the S tube on our rudder pedals?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>>
>> In a recent discussion about the rudder pedal brake reservoirs, John
>>Huft made this comment to which I'd like to add my 2 cents-worth.
>>
>>"I might worry about the reservoirs hitting the firewall if I had very
>>long legs, but at 5-11, I have lots of room."
>>
>> Although John has the fixed rudder pedals in his beautifully built
>>RV-8, I am installing the adjustable pedals, since I'm 6'3" and my
>>partner Ed is 5'8". When we hooked up the rudder cables (we also have
>>the Rear Seat Pedals), the cable seemed too long. With the pedals one
>>click aft of full forward, the brake pedals and fluid reservoirs were
>>almost touching the firewall even before any deflection of the pedal!
>>Additionally, we had over a full inch of washers on the forward side of
>>the firewall trying to take up the slack in the cables (both pedals)!
>>Since I really need the pedals full-forward, this was unacceptable.
>>Much fussing and weeping followed, but here is the short version of the
>>long story.
>>
>> We talked to Ken Krueger at Van's when we were at OSH last year and
>>he suggested we remove the cables and measure them to compare with their
>>specs. We did, and they were perfect in length. Hmmm... Ed and I
>>finally concluded that the "S" welds on the vertical rudder pedal
>>supports had been welded at the wrong angle, making it look like an
>>italic "S". This, in effect, "lengthened" the cables, even though they
>>were made to the proper specs. At any given point on the adjustable
>>pedal slide bar, this "cable lengthening effect" changed the geometry of
>>the brake pedal angle at the firewall -- shorten the cable, bring the
>>brake pedal aft. . .lengthen the cable, lean the brake pedal forward
>>(not good).
>>
>> We removed the rudder/brake pedal assemblies and sent them to Van's
>>and Ken confirmed our suspicions about the "S" welds! He also agreed
>>that actually shortening the cable (in our case by 1.5"), would be just
>>as good a fix as replacing the rudder cable assemblies with properly
>>welded "S" bends. We had the reswaged cables and pedals back within 10
>>days, and it worked great. I can now stretch out my legs to the full
>>forward pedal position and the brake pedals have just enough room for
>>full pedal depression prior to contacting the firewall!
>>
>> Has anyone else who is using the adjustable rudder pedals had this
>>or a similar problem? Ken was curious, but I hadn't read about any on
>>the -list. Sorry about the long post. By the way, Mr. Krueger was very
>>helpful and took this on in a personal way until we were satisfied --
>>pretty typical of Van's staff, in my opinion!
>>
>>
>>Ken Brooks
>>
>>Roscoe, IL
>>
>>Rigging ailerons and flaps - still shooting for end-of-year flight!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: jay pearlman <jay_pearlman@yahoo.com>
Anyone have experience with the johanson or other
wingtip tanks -
weight?
best installation method?
utility for cross country?
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Grommets for firewall shields |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/18/2003 8:57:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
randallh@attbi.com writes:
> >The trick to making anything made of rubber (either natural, nitrile
> >or other) last forever is to coat it liberally (I know this will be
> >difficult for you right-wingers but do it anyway ; ) when new with
> >DC4 or DC111
>
> Do you still use RTV to seal them up? Seems like it wouldn't stick. I know
> its ugly but I've always thought it's important, so as to minimize how much
> exhaust gasses can get into the cockpit.
>
If they are sized properly (tight fitting on the item) for the application
there's no need for RTV?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron squeeze |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/18/2003 2:41:53 PM Pacific Standard Time, lors01@msn.com
writes:
> To keep it straight in my head I think of the phrase "Squeeze a wing down"
Or squeeze a light wing lightly.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
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