Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:43 AM - Re: Ant. distance (Arthur and Christine)
2. 07:10 AM - Hot Cyl Temp (John Furey)
3. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: ELT Antenna (Elsa & Henry)
4. 07:36 AM - Re: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? (Charlie Kuss)
5. 07:52 AM - Re: Alcad Priming (Sam Buchanan)
6. 07:57 AM - Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! (Bill Dube)
7. 08:39 AM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Bill Marvel)
8. 08:51 AM - Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! (Bill Dube)
9. 08:56 AM - Re: Adequate Carb Heat (Gary)
10. 08:56 AM - Re: Brakes Sticking?? (Gary)
11. 09:01 AM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (WFACT01@aol.com)
12. 09:02 AM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Pat Perry)
13. 09:10 AM - Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! (Dwight Frye)
14. 09:35 AM - Re: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? (Dan Checkoway)
15. 10:04 AM - Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (HCRV6@aol.com)
16. 10:29 AM - Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs (Bob Haan)
17. 10:32 AM - Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (Krhooper@aol.com)
18. 11:08 AM - Re: Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs (Jim Norman)
19. 11:15 AM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Wes)
20. 12:00 PM - Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (Rick Galati)
21. 12:14 PM - Wiring Hobbs & 12V (Bob Hartley)
22. 12:24 PM - Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (Mr Christopher McGough)
23. 12:53 PM - Electronic Ignition (Will Cretsinger)
24. 01:25 PM - Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (david just david)
25. 01:26 PM - Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (panamared2@brier.net)
26. 02:10 PM - Wheel, Tire, & Tube - 2 x Nuts? (Rick Fogerson)
27. 02:20 PM - Re: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (Joshua Siler)
28. 02:33 PM - Re: Wiring Hobbs & 12V (MeangreenRV4@aol.com)
29. 02:34 PM - Doug Bell - Golf Tourn? (Lenleg@aol.com)
30. 02:41 PM - Re: Wiring Hobbs & 12V (Richard Dudley)
31. 02:42 PM - Re: N169AK First Flight (Richard Dudley)
32. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (Larry Pardue)
33. 03:11 PM - Re: Wiring Hobbs & 12V (tchoug)
34. 03:19 PM - Re: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (Kevin Horton)
35. 03:30 PM - Flying IFR in RVs WAS: Air Box Advisory (kempthornes)
36. 03:34 PM - Re: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted) (kempthornes)
37. 04:19 PM - Re: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted) (C. Rabaut)
38. 04:20 PM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Joe Hine)
39. 04:26 PM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Charles Rowbotham)
40. 04:29 PM - Re: N169AK First Flight (Charles Rowbotham)
41. 04:41 PM - Re: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (kempthornes)
42. 05:21 PM - Re: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? (Charlie Kuss)
43. 05:46 PM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Jerry Springer)
44. 06:33 PM - Re: Flying IFR in RVs WAS: Air Box Advisory (Jerry Springer)
45. 06:46 PM - Re: Adequate Carb Heat (Eustace Bowhay)
46. 07:09 PM - Re: Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
47. 07:13 PM - Re: Adequate Carb Heat (Eustace Bowhay)
48. 09:18 PM - Bendix FI servos (Heinrich Gerhardt)
49. 09:46 PM - Headsets - Opinions Wanted (George McNutt)
50. 10:04 PM - Re: Bendix FI servos (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Ant. distance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Arthur and Christine" <act1@reap.org.nz>
Hi Larry,
Have my com antennae under the left footwell and the xpdr antennae on the
right sid just in front of the rear spar carry through.
Works great.
Arthur Whitehead
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I'm considering mounting my bent-whip com antennae under one foot well
> and my blade xpdr antennae under the other foot well. This will give
> approximately 24" between the two. Is this enough distance between the
> two? Has anyone else done this? What were your results?
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my high cyl
temps for discussion.
I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even on a
short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are OK but they
seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle arrangement.
I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more efficient with
very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated.
John Furey
RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Larry,
I want my ELT to be heard also. After reading quite a few cases in Transport
Canada's quarterly news-letters about downed aircraft ELTs not being heard,
because the ELT's antenna having been broken off, I compromised and mounted
my antenna on the top longeron by the (tip-up) canopy window. The tip of the
whip is secured via a 3" long UHMW stand-off mounted to the rear of the
roll-bar.
Cheers!!----Henry Hore--6A, Cornwall, Ontario.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Been there, done that. Aerosol carb cleaner does not completely evaporate. Use
aerosol automotive brake cleaner instead. It will completely evaporate. It removes
grease and oil products. I only use it for cleaning a few small parts. It's
not very good stuff to be breathing in.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
>All,
>
>I was preparing some internal parts for priming, and it hit me that carb cleaner
would make an excellent cleaner/degreaser of the parts due to:
>* It's made for Alum. carbs
>* Most come in high pressue spray cans (blows the stuff out of the holes)
>* Cheap
>* Extremely powerful cleaner
>* Evaporates quickly
>
>Anyone think of any reason not to? I did not see any mention of such use in the
archives. It is important to note that your skin will feel like it is melting
if sprayed with the stuff, so definitely use gloves.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Alcad Priming |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> Sorry to bother all with another priming question...couldn't find a real direct
answer in the archives. I have been priming all of the ribs and internal components
with the SW wash primer. To save time, money, and weight, I am planning
on not priming the interior surface of the skin (relying on the alcad for
corrosion protection). Question is this...I have heard many say that you want
to prime just along the "rib line" of the internal skins. I assume a person
would have to remove the alcad in that area, or would one just prime over the
alcad? If the ribs are primed well, then is primer along the inside skin "rivet
line" really necessary.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Emp
The ribs and bulkheads are also fabricated from AlClad stock even though
they don't have the shiny appearance.
So.......if a builder is ok with not priming the interior of the skins,
there is no reason to prime the ribs and bulkheads.
(I really do know better than to post this message, but I'm gonna do it
anyway......!?!) ;-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 465 hrs)
http://thervjournal.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 07:36 PM 2/23/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Saffold" <michaelsaffold@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi everyone. I'm looking for a few used things . Orndorf videos, CP 214
>type squeezer, longeron yoke, Avery hand squeezer, quick connect pins for same.
Ebay is the best source for these items. Keep your eyes peeled. I
bought a 214 knock off for $130.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hot Cyl Temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
John:
I have had a lot of experience with Lycoming engines, and in particular their exhaust
valve and exhaust valve guide problems. These have been in existence for
over 35 years, have been addressed by many different service publications and
have been attributed to (at my last count) some 23 different causes. No solution
has ever been identified and SB 388B dumps the
burden for it squarely onto your shoulders and your wallet.
The short answer is that in these engines, cool CHTs are better and their red line
of 500 degrees is laughable. Valve and guide problems (the only real weak
link in their engines) require much cooler CHTs -- the lower the better. Their
suggestion of 400 degrees or less in cruise is pushing it. 350 and below will
make things last a lot longer. There are many
reasons for this, some of which are sodium filled stems that carry heat into the
guide, poor thermal conductivity of the guide material, and practically no oil
in the rocker boxes to augment valve and guide cooling. A massive amount of
detail on the work Bill Scott and I did several years ago is located at:
http://precisionengine.home.mindspring.com/
Scroll down to "Everything you wanted to know about Lycoming valve failures."
There is a LOT of information there.
As to your specific situation, I suggest you address anything and everything you
can to get those CHT levels down to the mid-300s in cruise and less than 400
in climb. I would expect that you should not see CHTs as high as yours in climb
except during takeoff from high altitude airports with your mixture leaned.
Seeing them in Ohio with full rich mixture, and
presumably winter temps, indicates more needs to be done. I have an -8A with the
standard baffle setup and have no experience with the plenum you built. However,
the fact remains that you have to get enough air in, and out, to get the
temps in check. Also, you have to have the mixture rich enough at full throttle
to add fuel cooling to air cooling. I don't know if
your engine is new, newly overhauled, or what, but regardless, look at every avenue
of reducing CHT levels.
Bill Marvel
John Furey wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my high cyl
temps for discussion.
>
> I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even on
a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are OK but
they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle arrangement.
I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more efficient with
very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated.
>
> John Furey
> RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>Hi everyone. I'm looking for a few used things . Orndorf videos, CP 214
>type squeezer, longeron yoke, Avery hand squeezer, quick connect pins for same.
After I replied, I thought a bit more. Why would you want both a
pneumatic squeezer AND a hand squeezer, especially if they had the same
size yokes?
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Adequate Carb Heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Eustace........on your RV-6, where you say you had no dedicated carb heat.......I
am interested in how it was set up. Did you merely have the carb heat door
on the top of the filtered air box open to the area below the crossover pipes?
Or did you have some sort of tube connecting to the exhaust such as Van's sells
now?
I am considering putting an additional cabin heat muff on the crossover pipes,
so it would be very convenient to just draw carb heat air out of the plenum with
no connection to the exhaust.........IF it will work well.
Thanks,
Gary 9A 90263
Snip...........My exhaust system is Allen Tolle's cross-over very similar to Larry's
system. When
I installed the fillterd air box it was obvious that the alternate air source
was in an ideal location to capture a good deal of heated air from the two
exhaust pipes running over the opening for the alternate air. I decided to
do
some testing without any dedicated carb heat.
I found that my engine was not prone to carb ice...........
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
---
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Brakes Sticking?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Original message:
Time: 04:01:26 PM PST US
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes Sticking??
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
It's not from the DAR it is in the paperwork from the
FEDS!!!
The comes from the "PROGRAM LETTER" which accompanys
the paperwork for final inspection.
"The powerplant installation has undergone at least
one hour of ground operation at various speeds from
idle to full power to determine and insure that all
systems are operating properly."
Sorry, but I did not write the rules.
Dan.......the "Fed" who asked for that requirement from you didn't write the rules
either. If you object to it (I would), ask him in writing to show you the
Reg that says that. I don't think there is any FAR requiring any form of testing
before airworthiness inspection.
There was a recent thead here where someone described glazing his new Aeorsport
Power cylinders by too much ground running at low power settings when the engine
was new........and avoiding the same by running full power in flight as soon
as possible on the new set of cylinders.
Gary
---
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Hot Cyl Temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
BILL- ive got a set of roller rocker arms for sale-tom
Tom Whelan
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01@aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Getting Close)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Hot Cyl Temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv@hotmail.com>
I also had high CHT temp readings on my 320 during my initial flights. On
climb I would see mid to high 400s. After extensive research and worry I
found the cause to be the probes. I originally configured the engine with
spark plug rings to get my temps. Lycomming used bayonet probes to get and
set thier temp limits, when I switched the hardware to a bayonet probe on my
hottest (#3) cylinder it displayed a 35-50 deg lower temperature.
Make sure you're reading the tempurature the same way and at the same point
they were when they wrote the recommendation!
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp
>Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 08:38:37 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
>
>John:
>
>I have had a lot of experience with Lycoming engines, and in particular
>their exhaust valve and exhaust valve guide problems. These have been in
>existence for over 35 years, have been addressed by many different service
>publications and have been attributed to (at my last count) some 23
>different causes. No solution has ever been identified and SB 388B dumps
>the
>burden for it squarely onto your shoulders and your wallet.
>
>The short answer is that in these engines, cool CHTs are better and their
>red line of 500 degrees is laughable. Valve and guide problems (the only
>real weak link in their engines) require much cooler CHTs -- the lower the
>better. Their suggestion of 400 degrees or less in cruise is pushing it.
>350 and below will make things last a lot longer. There are many
>reasons for this, some of which are sodium filled stems that carry heat
>into the guide, poor thermal conductivity of the guide material, and
>practically no oil in the rocker boxes to augment valve and guide cooling.
>A massive amount of detail on the work Bill Scott and I did several years
>ago is located at:
>
>http://precisionengine.home.mindspring.com/
>
>Scroll down to "Everything you wanted to know about Lycoming valve
>failures." There is a LOT of information there.
>
>As to your specific situation, I suggest you address anything and
>everything you can to get those CHT levels down to the mid-300s in cruise
>and less than 400 in climb. I would expect that you should not see CHTs as
>high as yours in climb except during takeoff from high altitude airports
>with your mixture leaned. Seeing them in Ohio with full rich mixture, and
>presumably winter temps, indicates more needs to be done. I have an -8A
>with the standard baffle setup and have no experience with the plenum you
>built. However, the fact remains that you have to get enough air in, and
>out, to get the temps in check. Also, you have to have the mixture rich
>enough at full throttle to add fuel cooling to air cooling. I don't know
>if
>your engine is new, newly overhauled, or what, but regardless, look at
>every avenue of reducing CHT levels.
>
>Bill Marvel
>
>
>John Furey wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
> >
> > With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my
>high cyl temps for discussion.
> >
> > I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450
>even on a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those
>are OK but they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard
>baffle arrangement. I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be
>much more efficient with very little leakage. Your input would be
>appreciated.
> >
> > John Furey
> > RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio
> >
>
>
>--
>Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
>P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
>San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
>
>One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
On Mon Feb 24 11:55:05 2003, Bill Dube wrote :
>>Hi everyone. I'm looking for a few used things . Orndorf videos, CP 214
>>type squeezer, longeron yoke, Avery hand squeezer, quick connect pins for same.
>
> After I replied, I thought a bit more. Why would you want both a
>pneumatic squeezer AND a hand squeezer, especially if they had the same
>size yokes?
The short-but-fat pneumatic squeezer body won't fit easily in every
situation you run into. Sometimes it is just too bulky to get into
the area where you need to rivet and still stay square with the
rivet you are squeezing. I've had cases where the thinner longer
handles of the manual squeezer worked great when the pneumatic
didn't. I actually started my project with only the pneumatic, and
then picked up the manual later for just this reason.
Alternatively, I had a fellow local builder who was trying to set
some rivets in his fuse .... and the long handles of his manual
squeezer would not fit into the short area where he needed to squeeze.
I loaned him my short-but-fat pneumatic for a week and he got the
problem rivets squashed with little trouble.
Maybe this makes me lazy for wanting to have both ... just so I have
options ... but I've decided I've become a tool-hound anyway. My
resistence to buying new tools has continually dropped over the life
of my project. And .. frankly .. as slow as I build, this is a really
scary thing if that trend doesn't stop soon!
-- Dwight
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Since those products evaporate so quickly, I would think they could
potentially cool the part down to the point where condensation might build
up slightly on the surface...even if it's only a tiny amount of
condensation, that still defeats the purpose.
What's wrong with Alumiprep or MEK or lacquer thinner, or even soapy water?
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Been there, done that. Aerosol carb cleaner does not completely evaporate.
Use aerosol automotive brake cleaner instead. It will completely evaporate.
It removes grease and oil products. I only use it for cleaning a few small
parts. It's not very good stuff to be breathing in.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
> >
> >
> >All,
> >
> >I was preparing some internal parts for priming, and it hit me that carb
cleaner would make an excellent cleaner/degreaser of the parts due to:
> >* It's made for Alum. carbs
> >* Most come in high pressue spray cans (blows the stuff out of the holes)
> >* Cheap
> >* Extremely powerful cleaner
> >* Evaporates quickly
> >
> >Anyone think of any reason not to? I did not see any mention of such use
in the archives. It is important to note that your skin will feel like it
is melting if sprayed with the stuff, so definitely use gloves.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Scott
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
What are most of you guys doing to finish your engine baffling, leaving them
in bare aluminum, painting, gold plating (don't laugh, I just saw some that
were gold anodized and looked as if they were gold plated). If painting, do
you use high temp paint or what?
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 16
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| Subject: | Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Haan <bhaan@easystreet.com>
I have an Uncle who has retired and lives winters in the Tampa area. He
has been following my progress building an RV6A for the past seven
years. I would like to arrange for him to visit either a shop or an
Airport in the greater Tampa area where there are a number of RVs.
My Uncle lives on Gandy Blvd, a short distance from the intersection of
Gandy Blvd. and High Way 19. I will coordinate the arrangements for this
visit, however, if it helps, my Uncle's email address is Harold W. Nielsen
<hwn6@juno.com>
My Uncle is an exceptionally nice person. You will enjoy giving him the
opportunity to see a real RV instead of the pictures I send him.
Perhaps I can return the favor when builders in the Tampa area are planning
a visit to the factory here in Portland.
Thanks,
Bob
RV6A Painting
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Krhooper@aol.com
Black Imron looks great and last a long time. No temperature problems.
Randy Hooper
Message 18
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| Subject: | Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
I'll send you information off list.
Jim
tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Haan
Subject: RV-List: Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Haan <bhaan@easystreet.com>
I have an Uncle who has retired and lives winters in the Tampa area. He
has been following my progress building an RV6A for the past seven
years. I would like to arrange for him to visit either a shop or an
Airport in the greater Tampa area where there are a number of RVs.
My Uncle lives on Gandy Blvd, a short distance from the intersection of
Gandy Blvd. and High Way 19. I will coordinate the arrangements for this
visit, however, if it helps, my Uncle's email address is Harold W. Nielsen
<hwn6@juno.com>
My Uncle is an exceptionally nice person. You will enjoy giving him the
opportunity to see a real RV instead of the pictures I send him.
Perhaps I can return the favor when builders in the Tampa area are planning
a visit to the factory here in Portland.
Thanks,
Bob
RV6A Painting
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Hot Cyl Temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wes" <whays@camalott.com>
I was very concerned my CHT, Oil, and EGT temps were out of range also.
Especially in the July temps in West Texas. On page 145 of the Sky Ranch
Engineering manual he discusses cruise performance and the desired temps.
1. Minimum in flight CHT is generally 150F.
2. Normal cruise CHT is 350F to 435F
3. Secondary CHT for max service life is 400F.
4. Desired oil temps should be within 160F and 245F with 180F the median
value.
5. Oil temps should not be below 165F during continuous operation and
Lycoming carbureted engines need an oil temp of 180F to cook out the
moisture.
Sometimes, (especially during climb) the temps were out of range. Toward the
end of the summer, I did open up the exit air by taking off about 1.5
inches. I don't know if the weather was that much cooler or if it helped,
but the temps really went down. CHT temps are now between 320 and 375, and
the oil temps stay much cooler. For some reason the oil temps really started
climbing after landing and taxiing to parking. After landing at OSH in
2000. the oil temps climbed to 230F before shutdown.
For some reason this seems unique to my plane. The other builders I have
visited with don't seem to have this problem. It does seem better after
opening up the exit air at the rear of the intake scoop. If anyone has any
thoughts on why the temps climb, I would appreciate hearing from you either
on or off list.
I would be less worried about the CHT temps as long as the oil temps stayed
in the range.
YMMV,
Wes Hays
Winters, TX
N844WB
338 hours.
"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
Michael Collins (1987)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my
high cyl temps for discussion.
>
> I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even
on a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are OK
but they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle
arrangement. I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more
efficient with very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated.
>
> John Furey
> RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Subject:
Dumb Baffling Question (pun
intended)
From:
HCRV6@aol.com
Date:
Mon Feb 24 - 10:04
AM
-- RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
What are most of you guys doing to finish your engine baffling, leaving them
in bare aluminum, painting, gold plating (don't laugh, I just saw some that
were gold anodized and looked as if they were gold plated). If painting, do
you use high temp paint or what?
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
I used the same Akzo epoxy primer as I used on the airframe since it is
highly resistant to all the fluids it would ever come into contact with.
No doubt that a gold anodizing treatment is very classy, I've seen more than
one aircraft with the baffling anodized, and it does look sharp. I
thought about it but I worked my baffling in stages making anodizing a bit
problematic. In my bid for "originality", I did work the bare
aluminum intake floors to mimic the look of the cowling treatment on the "Spirit
of St. Louis" though. This is the only area of the baffling the passing
visitor is likely to see, and was an easy thing to do.
Rick Galati
Message 21
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| Subject: | Wiring Hobbs & 12V |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
I'm almost a wiring master now.
Can't figure how to wire 2 things:
1. Hobbs meter.
2. 12V cigarette lighter.
Thank you for your help.
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mr Christopher McGough" <vhmum@bigpond.com>
Paint is weight I left ours bare
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended)
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> What are most of you guys doing to finish your engine baffling, leaving
them
> in bare aluminum, painting, gold plating (don't laugh, I just saw some
that
> were gold anodized and looked as if they were gold plated). If painting,
do
> you use high temp paint or what?
>
> Do not archive
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, firewall forward
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition |
--> RV-List message posted by: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger@ticnet.com>
I have one mag and one EI installed on my O-320 Lyc. My tach reading
shown on my EIS is used to obtain the RPM drop on preflight check when
the EI is turned off to check the mag, but I merely listen for any
adverse indications when the mag is turned off to check the EI.
Traditionally we check the RPM drop with one mag off and then the other
to determine the operational readiness of the mags before flight. I am
comfortable to not have an RPM drop figure for my EI but simply listen
for any problem.
Has anyone ever determined by an RPM drop during preflight check that
something was wrong with their EI and that this problem would not have
been obvious by simply listening? It seems to me that the traditional
check for RPM drop during preflight is unnecessary for the EI. I
discussed this with Jeff Rose and he did not disagree.
Comments requested. Do those with dual EI check for RPM drop on
preflight runup?
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 550 hours
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) |
--> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
hello, if you want to paint, i would use high temp paint. or ive seen
some that were primed with zinc. however i prefer just the bare,
cleaned, aluminum.... for what ever thats worth to you??
dave
a&p
soon to start 8a
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS |
--> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net
I have checked the archives, unable to find anything on the subject of
wether to fly based upon TAS or IAS.
Assuming that IAS = CAS (which it does not), is it wiser to fly based upon
IAS or TAS? My RMI MicroEncoder will provide either output on the screen.
Is Vne based upon TAS or IAS?
Which airspeed does Van's Aircraft base their performance statistics?
All these airspeeds are really confusing! Thanks for any enlightenment.
Bob
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Wheel, Tire, & Tube - 2 x Nuts? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
The archives say to discard the tube nut & washer. My tube came with 2 nuts (
1x silver, 1x brass) and a shiny stepped washer. I assume both nuts and the fancy
washer still get discarded. Would someone please confirm.
Do not archive
Thanks, Rick Fogerson
RV3 finish kit
Boise, ID
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
Definitely fly based on IAS. IAS is essentially indicating how the air
outside is affecting the airplane. If you try to land at a high altitude
airport on a hot day at 1.2 Vso using TAS, you'd stall the plane - the
IAS stall speed won't change regardless of altitude/temperature.
Josh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
panamared2@brier.net
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS
--> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net
I have checked the archives, unable to find anything on the subject of
wether to fly based upon TAS or IAS.
Assuming that IAS = CAS (which it does not), is it wiser to fly based
upon
IAS or TAS? My RMI MicroEncoder will provide either output on the
screen.
Is Vne based upon TAS or IAS?
Which airspeed does Van's Aircraft base their performance statistics?
All these airspeeds are really confusing! Thanks for any enlightenment.
Bob
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Hobbs & 12V |
--> RV-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4@aol.com
In a message dated 2/24/2003 12:16:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv9a_9@hotmail.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
>
> I'm almost a wiring master now.
>
> Can't figure how to wire 2 things:
> 1. Hobbs meter.
> 2. 12V cigarette lighter.
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
>
> Bob Hartley
> RV9A
> CA
>
Smoking is bad for you, your better off sniffing AV gas. As far as the Hobbs
meter one wire goes to ground the other one goes to the Avionics master
breaker /switch
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Doug Bell - Golf Tourn? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Doug:
You mentioned several times over the past few years of having a golf outing
up in Michigan ..... could this be the summer you fly the 8 and host a golf
outing ?????
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
56 hours !!
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Hobbs & 12V |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Bob,
I have a Hobbs-type meter from Van's. It has two terminals. They are not
marked for + and - . It works with either polarity. I am using an oil
pressure switch in which the normally open closes when the oil pressure
rises ( not sure at what pressure) when the engine starts. It is wired
to the battery buss so that it operates whether or not the master switch
is on.
The pressure switch is a spdt and the normally closed terminal is
connected to a light which lights when there is no oil pressure an off
when there is oil pressure providing a quick signal if oil pressure is
lost.
I have no experience with the cigarette lighter. Depending on how you
want to use it, it could be connected to the battery buss for power when
the master is off or it could connected to the main buss if you want to
use it only when the buss is energized.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Bob Hartley wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
>
> I'm almost a wiring master now.
>
> Can't figure how to wire 2 things:
> 1. Hobbs meter.
> 2. 12V cigarette lighter.
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Bob Hartley
> RV9A
> CA
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: N169AK First Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Congratulations, Andy!!!
Richard Dudley
Andy Karmy wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
>
> RV9A 90374 - N169AK first flight
>
> The day dawned clear and cold Sunday February 23, 2003. With the inspection over,
the planning done, checks and double checks finished, fuel added, it was
time to fly. Pulling the plane from the hanger people started showing up. My wife
and I had the plan in mind, but it was great to see a few of my local EAA
buds from the chapter show up just because they knew that I was going to fly today
>
> Engine starts easily, and a quick trip down to the pumps for 5 more gallons of
gas. Now its run up time. 2200 RPM static full throttle on the ground is good
for the Sensenich FP prop. Everything is still looking good, so out to the runway
we go. Lineup full throttle, with no flaps I am off in a very short amount
of time. I run a bit on the main gear with the nose in the air as the RV9 has
such a large tail and good elevator control. Lift off is smooth and climb out
is brisk. Its about 40degrees and I am seeing 1600fpm at 100+mph! Still turning
about 2250 RPM during climb out.
>
> Pitch felt good, ailerons needed just 2-3 taps on the electric aileron trim.
Hey this is just too cool The RV grin is starting! By downwind I am at 2000agl
and climbing, level off at 3000 and start the racetrack around the airport. I
flew about 20 minuets of just turning right and left in circles around the airport.
Next came slow flight, everything felt nice a easy at 70mph, so I dropped
the flaps to half and then full. Everything still nice and balanced, controls
are now much lighter in feel at 70mph. Everything looking good I accelerated
back to cruise.
>
> At 3000agl with 2400RPM I was indicating a solid 160mph with no gear leg fairings
or wheel pants. Not bad, this baby is going to cruise nicely. Well everything
is still looking good, so its time to let down for landing. Pushing the nose
downhill winds the airspeed through 185+ very quickly, pull the power back
and float down onto the 45. Downwind established at about 120mph, pull the power
to idle abeam the numbers and start feeding in flaps as I come through 85,
full flaps on base and capture 70mph and about 500fpm descent. Sweeping around
to final and holding about 70 gives a nice approach for this first one, everything
is lined up and working great as I setup the landing flair from memory
of my training in the RV6A (Thanks Mike Seager) I hold the pitch attitude and
wait, however I was used to the 6A which sits quite a bit lower than the 9A, so
next thing I know the wheels hit and I get a little bounce out of it, holding
attitude the speed bleeds off and the second landi!
ng!
> is smooth YEA first flight is a success!
>
> Post flight inspection did not uncover any leaks, or anything else that needed
working on. So whats a guy to do, but a second flight. While I was orbiting
on the second flight a friend from the EAA chapter came up in his RV6 to do some
formation inspection and video camera work. We had a great 30 min of air to
air shots and compared airspeeds etc. Great fun!
>
> All in all 1.5 hours TT today and my face is still hurting from the famous RV
grin!
>
> As in those famous words, Keep pounding those rivets, because you are going to
love this plane!
>
> Andy Karmy
> RV9A Seattle WA
> N169AK - Flying
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net
>
>I have checked the archives, unable to find anything on the subject of
>wether to fly based upon TAS or IAS.
>
>Assuming that IAS = CAS (which it does not), is it wiser to fly based upon
>IAS or TAS? My RMI MicroEncoder will provide either output on the screen.
>
>Is Vne based upon TAS or IAS?
>
>Which airspeed does Van's Aircraft base their performance statistics?
>
>All these airspeeds are really confusing! Thanks for any enlightenment.
>
>Bob
>
It depends on what you mean by "fly based upon." If you mean what should
you use for things such as approach speeds, TAS should never be used for
that. It could get you killed. IAS should be used for that as it will
give you the proper speed under all conditions of temperature and
altitude, and it is easy to determine as opposed to CAS. Just look at
the ASI.
TAS is of interest when you want to know what performance is and that is
what Van's or anyone else uses when they are telling you things like how
fast will the airplane go.
So, use IAS on climb if you are attempting to fly at Vx or Vy, after you
have determined what those IAS speeds are for your airplane. Use IAS on
approach so you will not stall and kill yourself trying to fly a certain
TAS that you can not get down to at high density altitude.
Use TAS when telling friends how fast your airplane goes or use GS if you
are going downwind and you are telling friends how fast your airplane has
gone with the help of wind. There are disputes regarding Vne,
particularly in the glider world. It is usually thought to refer to CAS.
In your case, as the manufacturer, I guess you get to decide. There may
be flutter effects at high altitude that would cause you to be more
conservative up around 30 thousand feet.
Please do not do what I see so often on this list. That is, do not say
the airplane indicates some certain value, when refering to performance.
That is pretty meaningless information without additional data.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 33
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| Subject: | Wiring Hobbs & 12V |
--> RV-List message posted by: tchoug <tchoug@micron.com>
An even better way to wire the Hobbs is to put an oil pressure activated switch
in your oil pressure sensor manifold (assuming you have an extra port) and connect
the ground wire of the hobbs to the switch. That way the Hobbs will only
run if the engine is running. Then you won't accumulate time when you just have
your master on - or the time when you forget and leave it on for a few days.
This is generally how Hobbs meters on heavy equipment are wired.
Todd Houg
RV9A Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: MeangreenRV4@aol.com [mailto:MeangreenRV4@aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Hobbs & 12V
--> RV-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4@aol.com
In a message dated 2/24/2003 12:16:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv9a_9@hotmail.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
>
> I'm almost a wiring master now.
>
> Can't figure how to wire 2 things:
> 1. Hobbs meter.
> 2. 12V cigarette lighter.
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
>
> Bob Hartley
> RV9A
> CA
>
Smoking is bad for you, your better off sniffing AV gas. As far as the Hobbs
meter one wire goes to ground the other one goes to the Avionics master
breaker /switch
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>There are disputes regarding Vne,
>particularly in the glider world. It is usually thought to refer to CAS.
> In your case, as the manufacturer, I guess you get to decide. There may
>be flutter effects at high altitude that would cause you to be more
>conservative up around 30 thousand feet.
>
From a structural loads point of view, VNE would ideally be based on
Equivalent Airspeed (EAS). However, we don't have an EAS indicator,
and EAS and CAS are almost exactly the same thing in the range of
interest for our RVs. So, the VNE that Van recommends is based on
CAS.
Larry's point about flutter possibly varying with TAS is valid, but
not likely a problem for us in the altitude range we normally fly.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Flying IFR in RVs WAS: Air Box Advisory |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
An ancient flight instructor wrote:
>First I would not fly mine at night IFR in the rain I guess that is me
>being cautious and 39 years flying experience and 29 years flight
>instructing. Do you fly yours at night in the rain in hard IFR?
Sure, under appropriate conditions. A warm summer evening with rain and no
thunderstorms such as might be found in western Oregon ought not ground an
experienced instrument rated pilot.
Instructing pilots to be too cautious discourages many and causes students
to drop out. I've met several who said their instructor scared them away
from flying. It is also sort of like crying wolf all the time - eventually
no one pays attention. Weather briefers in advising pilots say 'VFR not
recommended' so often have caused everyone to ignore all such warnings.
The proper advice is to obey the rules and have regard for the limitations
of yourself and your aircraft.
Someone even said we should not fly VFR unless it was CAVU. Surely that
was in jest.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted) |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I have an 81 pitch prop. I need to get it twisted to 85 or, sell it to my
friend who finds it just right for his purpose. How do you price something
for a friend? It would cost $150 to twist it and it already has 90 hours
on it. So, my question is, what is it worth?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Hal,
That depends on how "well" you like your friend. I usually let my
friends name their price, then under-cut it some, so they know they got a
good deal.
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted)
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> I have an 81 pitch prop. I need to get it twisted to 85 or, sell it to my
> friend who finds it just right for his purpose. How do you price
something
> for a friend? It would cost $150 to twist it and it already has 90 hours
> on it. So, my question is, what is it worth?
>
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
How much Tom????
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-
--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
BILL- ive got a set of roller rocker arms for sale-tom
Tom Whelan
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01@aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Getting Close)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
_
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Hot Cyl Temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
John,
What are oil temps and were is your oil cooler mounted?
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (150 hrs)
>From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp
>Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 10:10:22 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
>With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my high
>cyl temps for discussion.
>
>I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even
>on a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are
>OK but they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle
>arrangement. I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more
>efficient with very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated.
>
>John Furey
>RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: N169AK First Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Andy,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>, "RV9 List" <rv9-list@matronics.com>,
> "RV-9A@yahoogroups.com" <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RV-List: N169AK First Flight
>Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 23:05:38 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
>
>
>RV9A 90374 - N169AK first flight
>
>The day dawned clear and cold Sunday February 23, 2003. With the inspection
>over, the planning done, checks and double checks finished, fuel added, it
>was time to fly. Pulling the plane from the hanger people started showing
>up. My wife and I had the plan in mind, but it was great to see a few of my
>local EAA buds from the chapter show up just because they knew that I was
>going to fly today
>
>Engine starts easily, and a quick trip down to the pumps for 5 more gallons
>of gas. Now its run up time. 2200 RPM static full throttle on the ground is
>good for the Sensenich FP prop. Everything is still looking good, so out to
>the runway we go. Lineup full throttle, with no flaps I am off in a very
>short amount of time. I run a bit on the main gear with the nose in the air
>as the RV9 has such a large tail and good elevator control. Lift off is
>smooth and climb out is brisk. Its about 40degrees and I am seeing 1600fpm
>at 100+mph! Still turning about 2250 RPM during climb out.
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 04:25 PM 2/24/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net
>
>I have checked the archives, unable to find anything on the subject of
>wether to fly based upon TAS or IAS.
Get out the private pilot books!! We need to really understand all the
various airspeeds and why they exist.
Let's see if I remember from student pilot days:
CAS - airspeed adjusted for instrument error
IAS - what the instrument shows
TAS - airspeed corrected for temperature and altitude
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Dan,
I have seen the condensation you mention using carb clean. I've never seen it
using the brake clean. I live in SE Florida, not exactly the Gobi desert! :-)
I only use the brake clean for "quick and dirty" cleaning. As you say, the
other solutions are better. I usually scuff with ScotchBrite pads soaked in lacquer
thinner. The parts are then treated in AlumiPrep. Others will do more or
less. To each his own.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Since those products evaporate so quickly, I would think they could
>potentially cool the part down to the point where condensation might build
>up slightly on the surface...even if it's only a tiny amount of
>condensation, that still defeats the purpose.
>
>What's wrong with Alumiprep or MEK or lacquer thinner, or even soapy water?
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner?
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Been there, done that. Aerosol carb cleaner does not completely evaporate.
>Use aerosol automotive brake cleaner instead. It will completely evaporate.
>It removes grease and oil products. I only use it for cleaning a few small
>parts. It's not very good stuff to be breathing in.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> >--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>> >
>> >
>> >All,
>> >
>> >I was preparing some internal parts for priming, and it hit me that carb
>cleaner would make an excellent cleaner/degreaser of the parts due to:
>> >* It's made for Alum. carbs
>> >* Most come in high pressue spray cans (blows the stuff out of the holes)
>> >* Cheap
>> >* Extremely powerful cleaner
>> >* Evaporates quickly
>> >
>> >Anyone think of any reason not to? I did not see any mention of such use
>in the archives. It is important to note that your skin will feel like it
>is melting if sprayed with the stuff, so definitely use gloves.
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >Scott
>>
>>
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Hot Cyl Temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Of course the gauge is accurate right?
Jerry
do not archive
John Furey wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my high cyl
temps for discussion.
>
> I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even on
a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are OK but
they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle arrangement.
I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more efficient with
very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated.
>
> John Furey
> RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio
>
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Flying IFR in RVs WAS: Air Box Advisory |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
kempthornes wrote:
>
> Instructing pilots to be too cautious discourages many and causes students
> to drop out. I've met several who said their instructor scared them away
> from flying. It is also sort of like crying wolf all the time - eventually
> no one pays attention. Weather briefers in advising pilots say 'VFR not
> recommended' so often have caused everyone to ignore all such warnings.
>
"Instructing pilots to be to cautious discourages many and
causes many to drop out." Don't even know how to respond to that
Hal other than praise the instructor gods for weeding out the pilots
that don't like to be cautious.
I guess I could teach them to not be cautious and have them push on
and be dead now as several are the used to be on this list. :(
Jerry
do not archive
>
> Someone even said we should not fly VFR unless it was CAVU. Surely that
> was in jest.
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Adequate Carb Heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Gary:
No connection between the crossover pipes and the air box. I built the air
box and the door as per the drawings, and now I guess you can call it both,
"carb heat or alternate air". Anyway Gary it works well for me, I believe
that by not having a direct connection between the crossover and the door
you get hotter and higher volume to the air box.
The crossover is probably running in the area of 900- 1000 degrees and the
hot air has to be drawn down by the air coming through the cylinders so when
you close the door this air is sucked directly into the air box and I have a
hunch it far exceeds the 75 degree rise required for a carburated engine.As
I said I don't have any numbers to back this up but it works in my
installation.
Is it possible that by installing a muff over the crossovers you might loose
a lot of the heat available to the air box.
Could you install the second muff on the other exhaust, just a thought, I
have Larry's exhaust on the 6A and will take a look tomorrow.
I am working on the wheel covers and leg fairings.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Adequate Carb Heat
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
> Eustace........on your RV-6, where you say you had no dedicated carb
heat.......I am interested in how it was set up. Did you merely have the
carb heat door on the top of the filtered air box open to the area below the
crossover pipes? Or did you have some sort of tube connecting to the
exhaust such as Van's sells now?
>
> I am considering putting an additional cabin heat muff on the crossover
pipes, so it would be very convenient to just draw carb heat air out of the
plenum with no connection to the exhaust.........IF it will work well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary 9A 90263
>
> Snip...........My exhaust system is Allen Tolle's cross-over very similar
to Larry's system. When
> I installed the fillterd air box it was obvious that the alternate
air source
> was in an ideal location to capture a good deal of heated air from
the two
> exhaust pipes running over the opening for the alternate air. I
decided to do
> some testing without any dedicated carb heat.
>
> I found that my engine was not prone to carb ice...........
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
To wire the Hobbs properly you should run the wire from your Instrument
breaker to one terminal on the oil pressure activator switch. From the other
terminal the wire goes to one terminal ( + ) on the Hobbs. From the other (-
) terminal on the Hobbs to ground. This way the Hobbs only runs when the
engine has oil pressure to close the activator switch.
The lighter socket must run through a circuit breaker, preferably to be off
when the master switch is off. If you get smoke from something plugged in
you can stop it with the master if circuit breaker doesn't. I want my master
to kill ALL electrical stuff.
The only thing the wiring from switch/breaker to oil switch to ground would
do is pop the breaker or burn up the wire.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Adequate Carb Heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Gary:
In my reply to you I said when you "close the door" it should have read
"open the door"
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Adequate Carb Heat
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
> Eustace........on your RV-6, where you say you had no dedicated carb
heat.......I am interested in how it was set up. Did you merely have the
carb heat door on the top of the filtered air box open to the area below the
crossover pipes? Or did you have some sort of tube connecting to the
exhaust such as Van's sells now?
>
> I am considering putting an additional cabin heat muff on the crossover
pipes, so it would be very convenient to just draw carb heat air out of the
plenum with no connection to the exhaust.........IF it will work well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary 9A 90263
>
> Snip...........My exhaust system is Allen Tolle's cross-over very similar
to Larry's system. When
> I installed the fillterd air box it was obvious that the alternate
air source
> was in an ideal location to capture a good deal of heated air from
the two
> exhaust pipes running over the opening for the alternate air. I
decided to do
> some testing without any dedicated carb heat.
>
> I found that my engine was not prone to carb ice...........
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Bendix FI servos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Heinrich Gerhardt" <hgerhardt@earthlink.net>
Who's a good supplier of parts and/or overhauls for Bendix fuel
injection servos and fuel distributors? I've rebuilt diesel fuel
injection pumps myself, and these things can't be any more complicated.
So far I haven't been able to find parts for rebuild.
Heinrich Gerhardt
Message 49
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| Subject: | Headsets - Opinions Wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
Opinions Wanted
I have been looking at ANR headsets listed on E-bay and was wondering if the
Bose headsets are worth the extra money they go for. I have not tried any of
the ANR headsets and wondered if anyone on the List has first hand
experience comparing the Bose against Lightspeed or the other ANR sets in
their RV.
Thanks
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
Message 50
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| Subject: | Bendix FI servos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Heinrich,
You can buy parts directly from Precision Airmotive or through their
distributors like Aviall.
They sell new Bendix Servos, and and overhaul kit for the RSA servos.
Warning, it's not cheap. I was just on the phone with them today. An
"Overhaul Kit" for the typical RSA-5AD1 is over $900.00.
Airflow performance has a few parts, but less than they used to.
Hope this helps,
Stein Bruch
RV6 (Injected), Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Heinrich
Gerhardt
Subject: RV-List: Bendix FI servos
--> RV-List message posted by: "Heinrich Gerhardt" <hgerhardt@earthlink.net>
Who's a good supplier of parts and/or overhauls for Bendix fuel
injection servos and fuel distributors? I've rebuilt diesel fuel
injection pumps myself, and these things can't be any more complicated.
So far I haven't been able to find parts for rebuild.
Heinrich Gerhardt
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