---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 02/24/03: 50 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:43 AM - Re: Ant. distance (Arthur and Christine) 2. 07:10 AM - Hot Cyl Temp (John Furey) 3. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: ELT Antenna (Elsa & Henry) 4. 07:36 AM - Re: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? (Charlie Kuss) 5. 07:52 AM - Re: Alcad Priming (Sam Buchanan) 6. 07:57 AM - Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! (Bill Dube) 7. 08:39 AM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Bill Marvel) 8. 08:51 AM - Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! (Bill Dube) 9. 08:56 AM - Re: Adequate Carb Heat (Gary) 10. 08:56 AM - Re: Brakes Sticking?? (Gary) 11. 09:01 AM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (WFACT01@aol.com) 12. 09:02 AM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Pat Perry) 13. 09:10 AM - Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! (Dwight Frye) 14. 09:35 AM - Re: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? (Dan Checkoway) 15. 10:04 AM - Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (HCRV6@aol.com) 16. 10:29 AM - Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs (Bob Haan) 17. 10:32 AM - Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (Krhooper@aol.com) 18. 11:08 AM - Re: Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs (Jim Norman) 19. 11:15 AM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Wes) 20. 12:00 PM - Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (Rick Galati) 21. 12:14 PM - Wiring Hobbs & 12V (Bob Hartley) 22. 12:24 PM - Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (Mr Christopher McGough) 23. 12:53 PM - Electronic Ignition (Will Cretsinger) 24. 01:25 PM - Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) (david just david) 25. 01:26 PM - Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (panamared2@brier.net) 26. 02:10 PM - Wheel, Tire, & Tube - 2 x Nuts? (Rick Fogerson) 27. 02:20 PM - Re: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (Joshua Siler) 28. 02:33 PM - Re: Wiring Hobbs & 12V (MeangreenRV4@aol.com) 29. 02:34 PM - Doug Bell - Golf Tourn? (Lenleg@aol.com) 30. 02:41 PM - Re: Wiring Hobbs & 12V (Richard Dudley) 31. 02:42 PM - Re: N169AK First Flight (Richard Dudley) 32. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (Larry Pardue) 33. 03:11 PM - Re: Wiring Hobbs & 12V (tchoug) 34. 03:19 PM - Re: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (Kevin Horton) 35. 03:30 PM - Flying IFR in RVs WAS: Air Box Advisory (kempthornes) 36. 03:34 PM - Re: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted) (kempthornes) 37. 04:19 PM - Re: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted) (C. Rabaut) 38. 04:20 PM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Joe Hine) 39. 04:26 PM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Charles Rowbotham) 40. 04:29 PM - Re: N169AK First Flight (Charles Rowbotham) 41. 04:41 PM - Re: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS (kempthornes) 42. 05:21 PM - Re: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? (Charlie Kuss) 43. 05:46 PM - Re: Hot Cyl Temp (Jerry Springer) 44. 06:33 PM - Re: Flying IFR in RVs WAS: Air Box Advisory (Jerry Springer) 45. 06:46 PM - Re: Adequate Carb Heat (Eustace Bowhay) 46. 07:09 PM - Re: Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 47. 07:13 PM - Re: Adequate Carb Heat (Eustace Bowhay) 48. 09:18 PM - Bendix FI servos (Heinrich Gerhardt) 49. 09:46 PM - Headsets - Opinions Wanted (George McNutt) 50. 10:04 PM - Re: Bendix FI servos (Stein Bruch) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:43:30 AM PST US From: "Arthur and Christine" Subject: Re: RV-List: Ant. distance --> RV-List message posted by: "Arthur and Christine" Hi Larry, Have my com antennae under the left footwell and the xpdr antennae on the right sid just in front of the rear spar carry through. Works great. Arthur Whitehead > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" > > I'm considering mounting my bent-whip com antennae under one foot well > and my blade xpdr antennae under the other foot well. This will give > approximately 24" between the two. Is this enough distance between the > two? Has anyone else done this? What were your results? > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:10:50 AM PST US From: "John Furey" Subject: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my high cyl temps for discussion. I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even on a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are OK but they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle arrangement. I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more efficient with very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated. John Furey RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:24:45 AM PST US From: "Elsa & Henry" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: ELT Antenna --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" Larry, I want my ELT to be heard also. After reading quite a few cases in Transport Canada's quarterly news-letters about downed aircraft ELTs not being heard, because the ELT's antenna having been broken off, I compromised and mounted my antenna on the top longeron by the (tip-up) canopy window. The tip of the whip is secured via a 3" long UHMW stand-off mounted to the rear of the roll-bar. Cheers!!----Henry Hore--6A, Cornwall, Ontario. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:36:48 AM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss Been there, done that. Aerosol carb cleaner does not completely evaporate. Use aerosol automotive brake cleaner instead. It will completely evaporate. It removes grease and oil products. I only use it for cleaning a few small parts. It's not very good stuff to be breathing in. Charlie Kuss >--> RV-List message posted by: "" > > >All, > >I was preparing some internal parts for priming, and it hit me that carb cleaner would make an excellent cleaner/degreaser of the parts due to: >* It's made for Alum. carbs >* Most come in high pressue spray cans (blows the stuff out of the holes) >* Cheap >* Extremely powerful cleaner >* Evaporates quickly > >Anyone think of any reason not to? I did not see any mention of such use in the archives. It is important to note that your skin will feel like it is melting if sprayed with the stuff, so definitely use gloves. > >Thanks, >Scott ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:52:02 AM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Alcad Priming --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "" > > Sorry to bother all with another priming question...couldn't find a real direct answer in the archives. I have been priming all of the ribs and internal components with the SW wash primer. To save time, money, and weight, I am planning on not priming the interior surface of the skin (relying on the alcad for corrosion protection). Question is this...I have heard many say that you want to prime just along the "rib line" of the internal skins. I assume a person would have to remove the alcad in that area, or would one just prime over the alcad? If the ribs are primed well, then is primer along the inside skin "rivet line" really necessary. > > Thanks, > Scott > 7A Emp The ribs and bulkheads are also fabricated from AlClad stock even though they don't have the shiny appearance. So.......if a builder is ok with not priming the interior of the skins, there is no reason to prime the ribs and bulkheads. (I really do know better than to post this message, but I'm gonna do it anyway......!?!) ;-) Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 465 hrs) http://thervjournal.com ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:57:55 AM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: Re: RV-List: Wanted: Used Stuff! --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube At 07:36 PM 2/23/2003, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Saffold" > >Hi everyone. I'm looking for a few used things . Orndorf videos, CP 214 >type squeezer, longeron yoke, Avery hand squeezer, quick connect pins for same. Ebay is the best source for these items. Keep your eyes peeled. I bought a 214 knock off for $130. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:39:54 AM PST US From: Bill Marvel Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel John: I have had a lot of experience with Lycoming engines, and in particular their exhaust valve and exhaust valve guide problems. These have been in existence for over 35 years, have been addressed by many different service publications and have been attributed to (at my last count) some 23 different causes. No solution has ever been identified and SB 388B dumps the burden for it squarely onto your shoulders and your wallet. The short answer is that in these engines, cool CHTs are better and their red line of 500 degrees is laughable. Valve and guide problems (the only real weak link in their engines) require much cooler CHTs -- the lower the better. Their suggestion of 400 degrees or less in cruise is pushing it. 350 and below will make things last a lot longer. There are many reasons for this, some of which are sodium filled stems that carry heat into the guide, poor thermal conductivity of the guide material, and practically no oil in the rocker boxes to augment valve and guide cooling. A massive amount of detail on the work Bill Scott and I did several years ago is located at: http://precisionengine.home.mindspring.com/ Scroll down to "Everything you wanted to know about Lycoming valve failures." There is a LOT of information there. As to your specific situation, I suggest you address anything and everything you can to get those CHT levels down to the mid-300s in cruise and less than 400 in climb. I would expect that you should not see CHTs as high as yours in climb except during takeoff from high altitude airports with your mixture leaned. Seeing them in Ohio with full rich mixture, and presumably winter temps, indicates more needs to be done. I have an -8A with the standard baffle setup and have no experience with the plenum you built. However, the fact remains that you have to get enough air in, and out, to get the temps in check. Also, you have to have the mixture rich enough at full throttle to add fuel cooling to air cooling. I don't know if your engine is new, newly overhauled, or what, but regardless, look at every avenue of reducing CHT levels. Bill Marvel John Furey wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" > > With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my high cyl temps for discussion. > > I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even on a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are OK but they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle arrangement. I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more efficient with very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated. > > John Furey > RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio > -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:51:10 AM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: Re: RV-List: Wanted: Used Stuff! --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube > >Hi everyone. I'm looking for a few used things . Orndorf videos, CP 214 >type squeezer, longeron yoke, Avery hand squeezer, quick connect pins for same. After I replied, I thought a bit more. Why would you want both a pneumatic squeezer AND a hand squeezer, especially if they had the same size yokes? ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:56:11 AM PST US From: "Gary" Subject: Re: RV-List: Adequate Carb Heat --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" Eustace........on your RV-6, where you say you had no dedicated carb heat.......I am interested in how it was set up. Did you merely have the carb heat door on the top of the filtered air box open to the area below the crossover pipes? Or did you have some sort of tube connecting to the exhaust such as Van's sells now? I am considering putting an additional cabin heat muff on the crossover pipes, so it would be very convenient to just draw carb heat air out of the plenum with no connection to the exhaust.........IF it will work well. Thanks, Gary 9A 90263 Snip...........My exhaust system is Allen Tolle's cross-over very similar to Larry's system. When I installed the fillterd air box it was obvious that the alternate air source was in an ideal location to capture a good deal of heated air from the two exhaust pipes running over the opening for the alternate air. I decided to do some testing without any dedicated carb heat. I found that my engine was not prone to carb ice........... Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. --- ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:56:13 AM PST US From: "Gary" Subject: Re: RV-List: Brakes Sticking?? --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" Original message: Time: 04:01:26 PM PST US From: Dan DeNeal Subject: Re: Brakes Sticking?? --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal It's not from the DAR it is in the paperwork from the FEDS!!! The comes from the "PROGRAM LETTER" which accompanys the paperwork for final inspection. "The powerplant installation has undergone at least one hour of ground operation at various speeds from idle to full power to determine and insure that all systems are operating properly." Sorry, but I did not write the rules. Dan.......the "Fed" who asked for that requirement from you didn't write the rules either. If you object to it (I would), ask him in writing to show you the Reg that says that. I don't think there is any FAR requiring any form of testing before airworthiness inspection. There was a recent thead here where someone described glazing his new Aeorsport Power cylinders by too much ground running at low power settings when the engine was new........and avoiding the same by running full power in flight as soon as possible on the new set of cylinders. Gary --- ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:01:25 AM PST US From: WFACT01@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp --> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com BILL- ive got a set of roller rocker arms for sale-tom Tom Whelan President EAA Chapter 1097 wfact01@aol.com 249 Hard Hill Road North PO Box 426 Bethlehem, CT 06751 Tel: 203-266-5300 Fax: 202-266-5140 EAA Technical/Flight Advisor RV-8 540 LYC (Getting Close) S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction) ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:02:30 AM PST US From: "Pat Perry" Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" I also had high CHT temp readings on my 320 during my initial flights. On climb I would see mid to high 400s. After extensive research and worry I found the cause to be the probes. I originally configured the engine with spark plug rings to get my temps. Lycomming used bayonet probes to get and set thier temp limits, when I switched the hardware to a bayonet probe on my hottest (#3) cylinder it displayed a 35-50 deg lower temperature. Make sure you're reading the tempurature the same way and at the same point they were when they wrote the recommendation! Pat Perry Dallas, PA RV-4 N154PK Flies great! >From: Bill Marvel >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp >Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 08:38:37 -0800 > >--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel > >John: > >I have had a lot of experience with Lycoming engines, and in particular >their exhaust valve and exhaust valve guide problems. These have been in >existence for over 35 years, have been addressed by many different service >publications and have been attributed to (at my last count) some 23 >different causes. No solution has ever been identified and SB 388B dumps >the >burden for it squarely onto your shoulders and your wallet. > >The short answer is that in these engines, cool CHTs are better and their >red line of 500 degrees is laughable. Valve and guide problems (the only >real weak link in their engines) require much cooler CHTs -- the lower the >better. Their suggestion of 400 degrees or less in cruise is pushing it. >350 and below will make things last a lot longer. There are many >reasons for this, some of which are sodium filled stems that carry heat >into the guide, poor thermal conductivity of the guide material, and >practically no oil in the rocker boxes to augment valve and guide cooling. >A massive amount of detail on the work Bill Scott and I did several years >ago is located at: > >http://precisionengine.home.mindspring.com/ > >Scroll down to "Everything you wanted to know about Lycoming valve >failures." There is a LOT of information there. > >As to your specific situation, I suggest you address anything and >everything you can to get those CHT levels down to the mid-300s in cruise >and less than 400 in climb. I would expect that you should not see CHTs as >high as yours in climb except during takeoff from high altitude airports >with your mixture leaned. Seeing them in Ohio with full rich mixture, and >presumably winter temps, indicates more needs to be done. I have an -8A >with the standard baffle setup and have no experience with the plenum you >built. However, the fact remains that you have to get enough air in, and >out, to get the temps in check. Also, you have to have the mixture rich >enough at full throttle to add fuel cooling to air cooling. I don't know >if >your engine is new, newly overhauled, or what, but regardless, look at >every avenue of reducing CHT levels. > >Bill Marvel > > >John Furey wrote: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" > > > > With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my >high cyl temps for discussion. > > > > I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 >even on a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those >are OK but they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard >baffle arrangement. I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be >much more efficient with very little leakage. Your input would be >appreciated. > > > > John Furey > > RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio > > > > >-- >Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 >P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 >San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 > >One good deed beats 100 good intentions... > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:10:48 AM PST US From: Dwight Frye Subject: Re: RV-List: Wanted: Used Stuff! --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye On Mon Feb 24 11:55:05 2003, Bill Dube wrote : >>Hi everyone. I'm looking for a few used things . Orndorf videos, CP 214 >>type squeezer, longeron yoke, Avery hand squeezer, quick connect pins for same. > > After I replied, I thought a bit more. Why would you want both a >pneumatic squeezer AND a hand squeezer, especially if they had the same >size yokes? The short-but-fat pneumatic squeezer body won't fit easily in every situation you run into. Sometimes it is just too bulky to get into the area where you need to rivet and still stay square with the rivet you are squeezing. I've had cases where the thinner longer handles of the manual squeezer worked great when the pneumatic didn't. I actually started my project with only the pneumatic, and then picked up the manual later for just this reason. Alternatively, I had a fellow local builder who was trying to set some rivets in his fuse .... and the long handles of his manual squeezer would not fit into the short area where he needed to squeeze. I loaned him my short-but-fat pneumatic for a week and he got the problem rivets squashed with little trouble. Maybe this makes me lazy for wanting to have both ... just so I have options ... but I've decided I've become a tool-hound anyway. My resistence to buying new tools has continually dropped over the life of my project. And .. frankly .. as slow as I build, this is a really scary thing if that trend doesn't stop soon! -- Dwight DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:35:57 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Since those products evaporate so quickly, I would think they could potentially cool the part down to the point where condensation might build up slightly on the surface...even if it's only a tiny amount of condensation, that still defeats the purpose. What's wrong with Alumiprep or MEK or lacquer thinner, or even soapy water? do not archive )_( Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Kuss" Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss > > Been there, done that. Aerosol carb cleaner does not completely evaporate. Use aerosol automotive brake cleaner instead. It will completely evaporate. It removes grease and oil products. I only use it for cleaning a few small parts. It's not very good stuff to be breathing in. > Charlie Kuss > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "" > > > > > >All, > > > >I was preparing some internal parts for priming, and it hit me that carb cleaner would make an excellent cleaner/degreaser of the parts due to: > >* It's made for Alum. carbs > >* Most come in high pressue spray cans (blows the stuff out of the holes) > >* Cheap > >* Extremely powerful cleaner > >* Evaporates quickly > > > >Anyone think of any reason not to? I did not see any mention of such use in the archives. It is important to note that your skin will feel like it is melting if sprayed with the stuff, so definitely use gloves. > > > >Thanks, > >Scott > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:04:23 AM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com What are most of you guys doing to finish your engine baffling, leaving them in bare aluminum, painting, gold plating (don't laugh, I just saw some that were gold anodized and looked as if they were gold plated). If painting, do you use high temp paint or what? Do not archive Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, firewall forward ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:24 AM PST US From: Bob Haan Subject: RV-List: Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Haan I have an Uncle who has retired and lives winters in the Tampa area. He has been following my progress building an RV6A for the past seven years. I would like to arrange for him to visit either a shop or an Airport in the greater Tampa area where there are a number of RVs. My Uncle lives on Gandy Blvd, a short distance from the intersection of Gandy Blvd. and High Way 19. I will coordinate the arrangements for this visit, however, if it helps, my Uncle's email address is Harold W. Nielsen My Uncle is an exceptionally nice person. You will enjoy giving him the opportunity to see a real RV instead of the pictures I send him. Perhaps I can return the favor when builders in the Tampa area are planning a visit to the factory here in Portland. Thanks, Bob RV6A Painting http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/ ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 10:32:40 AM PST US From: Krhooper@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) --> RV-List message posted by: Krhooper@aol.com Black Imron looks great and last a long time. No temperature problems. Randy Hooper ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 11:08:09 AM PST US From: "Jim Norman" Subject: RE: RV-List: Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" I'll send you information off list. Jim tampa -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Haan Subject: RV-List: Tampa area - visit shop or airport to see RVs --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Haan I have an Uncle who has retired and lives winters in the Tampa area. He has been following my progress building an RV6A for the past seven years. I would like to arrange for him to visit either a shop or an Airport in the greater Tampa area where there are a number of RVs. My Uncle lives on Gandy Blvd, a short distance from the intersection of Gandy Blvd. and High Way 19. I will coordinate the arrangements for this visit, however, if it helps, my Uncle's email address is Harold W. Nielsen My Uncle is an exceptionally nice person. You will enjoy giving him the opportunity to see a real RV instead of the pictures I send him. Perhaps I can return the favor when builders in the Tampa area are planning a visit to the factory here in Portland. Thanks, Bob RV6A Painting http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/ ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 11:15:56 AM PST US From: "Wes" Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp --> RV-List message posted by: "Wes" I was very concerned my CHT, Oil, and EGT temps were out of range also. Especially in the July temps in West Texas. On page 145 of the Sky Ranch Engineering manual he discusses cruise performance and the desired temps. 1. Minimum in flight CHT is generally 150F. 2. Normal cruise CHT is 350F to 435F 3. Secondary CHT for max service life is 400F. 4. Desired oil temps should be within 160F and 245F with 180F the median value. 5. Oil temps should not be below 165F during continuous operation and Lycoming carbureted engines need an oil temp of 180F to cook out the moisture. Sometimes, (especially during climb) the temps were out of range. Toward the end of the summer, I did open up the exit air by taking off about 1.5 inches. I don't know if the weather was that much cooler or if it helped, but the temps really went down. CHT temps are now between 320 and 375, and the oil temps stay much cooler. For some reason the oil temps really started climbing after landing and taxiing to parking. After landing at OSH in 2000. the oil temps climbed to 230F before shutdown. For some reason this seems unique to my plane. The other builders I have visited with don't seem to have this problem. It does seem better after opening up the exit air at the rear of the intake scoop. If anyone has any thoughts on why the temps climb, I would appreciate hearing from you either on or off list. I would be less worried about the CHT temps as long as the oil temps stayed in the range. YMMV, Wes Hays Winters, TX N844WB 338 hours. "The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard." Michael Collins (1987) ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Furey" Subject: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" > > With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my high cyl temps for discussion. > > I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even on a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are OK but they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle arrangement. I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more efficient with very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated. > > John Furey > RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 12:00:51 PM PST US From: "Rick Galati" Subject: RV-List: Re: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" --- Rick Galati --- rick07x@earthlink.net Subject: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) From: HCRV6@aol.com Date: Mon Feb 24 - 10:04 AM -- RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com What are most of you guys doing to finish your engine baffling, leaving them in bare aluminum, painting, gold plating (don't laugh, I just saw some that were gold anodized and looked as if they were gold plated). If painting, do you use high temp paint or what? Do not archive Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, firewall forward I used the same Akzo epoxy primer as I used on the airframe since it is highly resistant to all the fluids it would ever come into contact with. No doubt that a gold anodizing treatment is very classy, I've seen more than one aircraft with the baffling anodized, and it does look sharp. I thought about it but I worked my baffling in stages making anodizing a bit problematic. In my bid for "originality", I did work the bare aluminum intake floors to mimic the look of the cowling treatment on the "Spirit of St. Louis" though. This is the only area of the baffling the passing visitor is likely to see, and was an easy thing to do. Rick Galati ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 12:14:38 PM PST US From: "Bob Hartley" Subject: RV-List: Wiring Hobbs & 12V --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" I'm almost a wiring master now. Can't figure how to wire 2 things: 1. Hobbs meter. 2. 12V cigarette lighter. Thank you for your help. Bob Hartley RV9A CA ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 12:24:13 PM PST US From: "Mr Christopher McGough" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) --> RV-List message posted by: "Mr Christopher McGough" Paint is weight I left ours bare Chris and Susie VH-MUM ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) > --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com > > What are most of you guys doing to finish your engine baffling, leaving them > in bare aluminum, painting, gold plating (don't laugh, I just saw some that > were gold anodized and looked as if they were gold plated). If painting, do > you use high temp paint or what? > > Do not archive > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, firewall forward > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 12:53:20 PM PST US From: Will Cretsinger Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition --> RV-List message posted by: Will Cretsinger I have one mag and one EI installed on my O-320 Lyc. My tach reading shown on my EIS is used to obtain the RPM drop on preflight check when the EI is turned off to check the mag, but I merely listen for any adverse indications when the mag is turned off to check the EI. Traditionally we check the RPM drop with one mag off and then the other to determine the operational readiness of the mags before flight. I am comfortable to not have an RPM drop figure for my EI but simply listen for any problem. Has anyone ever determined by an RPM drop during preflight check that something was wrong with their EI and that this problem would not have been obvious by simply listening? It seems to me that the traditional check for RPM drop during preflight is unnecessary for the EI. I discussed this with Jeff Rose and he did not disagree. Comments requested. Do those with dual EI check for RPM drop on preflight runup? Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas -6A flying past 550 hours ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 01:25:09 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Dumb Baffling Question (pun intended) From: david just david --> RV-List message posted by: david just david hello, if you want to paint, i would use high temp paint. or ive seen some that were primed with zinc. however i prefer just the bare, cleaned, aluminum.... for what ever thats worth to you?? dave a&p soon to start 8a ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 01:26:05 PM PST US From: panamared2@brier.net Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS --> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net I have checked the archives, unable to find anything on the subject of wether to fly based upon TAS or IAS. Assuming that IAS = CAS (which it does not), is it wiser to fly based upon IAS or TAS? My RMI MicroEncoder will provide either output on the screen. Is Vne based upon TAS or IAS? Which airspeed does Van's Aircraft base their performance statistics? All these airspeeds are really confusing! Thanks for any enlightenment. Bob ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 02:10:42 PM PST US From: "Rick Fogerson" Subject: RV-List: Wheel, Tire, & Tube - 2 x Nuts? --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" The archives say to discard the tube nut & washer. My tube came with 2 nuts ( 1x silver, 1x brass) and a shiny stepped washer. I assume both nuts and the fancy washer still get discarded. Would someone please confirm. Do not archive Thanks, Rick Fogerson RV3 finish kit Boise, ID ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 02:20:29 PM PST US From: "Joshua Siler" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS --> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" Definitely fly based on IAS. IAS is essentially indicating how the air outside is affecting the airplane. If you try to land at a high altitude airport on a hot day at 1.2 Vso using TAS, you'd stall the plane - the IAS stall speed won't change regardless of altitude/temperature. Josh -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of panamared2@brier.net Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS --> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net I have checked the archives, unable to find anything on the subject of wether to fly based upon TAS or IAS. Assuming that IAS = CAS (which it does not), is it wiser to fly based upon IAS or TAS? My RMI MicroEncoder will provide either output on the screen. Is Vne based upon TAS or IAS? Which airspeed does Van's Aircraft base their performance statistics? All these airspeeds are really confusing! Thanks for any enlightenment. Bob ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 02:33:45 PM PST US From: MeangreenRV4@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Hobbs & 12V --> RV-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4@aol.com In a message dated 2/24/2003 12:16:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv9a_9@hotmail.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" > > I'm almost a wiring master now. > > Can't figure how to wire 2 things: > 1. Hobbs meter. > 2. 12V cigarette lighter. > > Thank you for your help. > > > Bob Hartley > RV9A > CA > Smoking is bad for you, your better off sniffing AV gas. As far as the Hobbs meter one wire goes to ground the other one goes to the Avionics master breaker /switch ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 02:34:01 PM PST US From: Lenleg@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Doug Bell - Golf Tourn? --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com Doug: You mentioned several times over the past few years of having a golf outing up in Michigan ..... could this be the summer you fly the 8 and host a golf outing ????? Len Leggette RV-8A N901LL Greensboro, N.C. 56 hours !! ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 02:41:49 PM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Hobbs & 12V --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley Bob, I have a Hobbs-type meter from Van's. It has two terminals. They are not marked for + and - . It works with either polarity. I am using an oil pressure switch in which the normally open closes when the oil pressure rises ( not sure at what pressure) when the engine starts. It is wired to the battery buss so that it operates whether or not the master switch is on. The pressure switch is a spdt and the normally closed terminal is connected to a light which lights when there is no oil pressure an off when there is oil pressure providing a quick signal if oil pressure is lost. I have no experience with the cigarette lighter. Depending on how you want to use it, it could be connected to the battery buss for power when the master is off or it could connected to the main buss if you want to use it only when the buss is energized. Hope this helps. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A FWF Bob Hartley wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" > > I'm almost a wiring master now. > > Can't figure how to wire 2 things: > 1. Hobbs meter. > 2. 12V cigarette lighter. > > Thank you for your help. > > Bob Hartley > RV9A > CA > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 02:42:15 PM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: Re: RV-List: N169AK First Flight --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley Congratulations, Andy!!! Richard Dudley Andy Karmy wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" > > RV9A 90374 - N169AK first flight > > The day dawned clear and cold Sunday February 23, 2003. With the inspection over, the planning done, checks and double checks finished, fuel added, it was time to fly. Pulling the plane from the hanger people started showing up. My wife and I had the plan in mind, but it was great to see a few of my local EAA buds from the chapter show up just because they knew that I was going to fly today > > Engine starts easily, and a quick trip down to the pumps for 5 more gallons of gas. Now its run up time. 2200 RPM static full throttle on the ground is good for the Sensenich FP prop. Everything is still looking good, so out to the runway we go. Lineup full throttle, with no flaps I am off in a very short amount of time. I run a bit on the main gear with the nose in the air as the RV9 has such a large tail and good elevator control. Lift off is smooth and climb out is brisk. Its about 40degrees and I am seeing 1600fpm at 100+mph! Still turning about 2250 RPM during climb out. > > Pitch felt good, ailerons needed just 2-3 taps on the electric aileron trim. Hey this is just too cool The RV grin is starting! By downwind I am at 2000agl and climbing, level off at 3000 and start the racetrack around the airport. I flew about 20 minuets of just turning right and left in circles around the airport. Next came slow flight, everything felt nice a easy at 70mph, so I dropped the flaps to half and then full. Everything still nice and balanced, controls are now much lighter in feel at 70mph. Everything looking good I accelerated back to cruise. > > At 3000agl with 2400RPM I was indicating a solid 160mph with no gear leg fairings or wheel pants. Not bad, this baby is going to cruise nicely. Well everything is still looking good, so its time to let down for landing. Pushing the nose downhill winds the airspeed through 185+ very quickly, pull the power back and float down onto the 45. Downwind established at about 120mph, pull the power to idle abeam the numbers and start feeding in flaps as I come through 85, full flaps on base and capture 70mph and about 500fpm descent. Sweeping around to final and holding about 70 gives a nice approach for this first one, everything is lined up and working great as I setup the landing flair from memory of my training in the RV6A (Thanks Mike Seager) I hold the pitch attitude and wait, however I was used to the 6A which sits quite a bit lower than the 9A, so next thing I know the wheels hit and I get a little bounce out of it, holding attitude the speed bleeds off and the second landi! ng! > is smooth YEA first flight is a success! > > Post flight inspection did not uncover any leaks, or anything else that needed working on. So whats a guy to do, but a second flight. While I was orbiting on the second flight a friend from the EAA chapter came up in his RV6 to do some formation inspection and video camera work. We had a great 30 min of air to air shots and compared airspeeds etc. Great fun! > > All in all 1.5 hours TT today and my face is still hurting from the famous RV grin! > > As in those famous words, Keep pounding those rivets, because you are going to love this plane! > > Andy Karmy > RV9A Seattle WA > N169AK - Flying > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 02:45:56 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS From: Larry Pardue --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue > >--> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net > >I have checked the archives, unable to find anything on the subject of >wether to fly based upon TAS or IAS. > >Assuming that IAS = CAS (which it does not), is it wiser to fly based upon >IAS or TAS? My RMI MicroEncoder will provide either output on the screen. > >Is Vne based upon TAS or IAS? > >Which airspeed does Van's Aircraft base their performance statistics? > >All these airspeeds are really confusing! Thanks for any enlightenment. > >Bob > It depends on what you mean by "fly based upon." If you mean what should you use for things such as approach speeds, TAS should never be used for that. It could get you killed. IAS should be used for that as it will give you the proper speed under all conditions of temperature and altitude, and it is easy to determine as opposed to CAS. Just look at the ASI. TAS is of interest when you want to know what performance is and that is what Van's or anyone else uses when they are telling you things like how fast will the airplane go. So, use IAS on climb if you are attempting to fly at Vx or Vy, after you have determined what those IAS speeds are for your airplane. Use IAS on approach so you will not stall and kill yourself trying to fly a certain TAS that you can not get down to at high density altitude. Use TAS when telling friends how fast your airplane goes or use GS if you are going downwind and you are telling friends how fast your airplane has gone with the help of wind. There are disputes regarding Vne, particularly in the glider world. It is usually thought to refer to CAS. In your case, as the manufacturer, I guess you get to decide. There may be flutter effects at high altitude that would cause you to be more conservative up around 30 thousand feet. Please do not do what I see so often on this list. That is, do not say the airplane indicates some certain value, when refering to performance. That is pretty meaningless information without additional data. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 03:11:44 PM PST US From: tchoug Subject: RE: RV-List: Wiring Hobbs & 12V --> RV-List message posted by: tchoug An even better way to wire the Hobbs is to put an oil pressure activated switch in your oil pressure sensor manifold (assuming you have an extra port) and connect the ground wire of the hobbs to the switch. That way the Hobbs will only run if the engine is running. Then you won't accumulate time when you just have your master on - or the time when you forget and leave it on for a few days. This is generally how Hobbs meters on heavy equipment are wired. Todd Houg RV9A Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: MeangreenRV4@aol.com [mailto:MeangreenRV4@aol.com] Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Hobbs & 12V --> RV-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4@aol.com In a message dated 2/24/2003 12:16:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv9a_9@hotmail.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" > > I'm almost a wiring master now. > > Can't figure how to wire 2 things: > 1. Hobbs meter. > 2. 12V cigarette lighter. > > Thank you for your help. > > > Bob Hartley > RV9A > CA > Smoking is bad for you, your better off sniffing AV gas. As far as the Hobbs meter one wire goes to ground the other one goes to the Avionics master breaker /switch ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 03:19:56 PM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue >There are disputes regarding Vne, >particularly in the glider world. It is usually thought to refer to CAS. > In your case, as the manufacturer, I guess you get to decide. There may >be flutter effects at high altitude that would cause you to be more >conservative up around 30 thousand feet. > From a structural loads point of view, VNE would ideally be based on Equivalent Airspeed (EAS). However, we don't have an EAS indicator, and EAS and CAS are almost exactly the same thing in the range of interest for our RVs. So, the VNE that Van recommends is based on CAS. Larry's point about flutter possibly varying with TAS is valid, but not likely a problem for us in the altitude range we normally fly. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 03:30:00 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: RV-List: Flying IFR in RVs WAS: Air Box Advisory --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes An ancient flight instructor wrote: >First I would not fly mine at night IFR in the rain I guess that is me >being cautious and 39 years flying experience and 29 years flight >instructing. Do you fly yours at night in the rain in hard IFR? Sure, under appropriate conditions. A warm summer evening with rain and no thunderstorms such as might be found in western Oregon ought not ground an experienced instrument rated pilot. Instructing pilots to be too cautious discourages many and causes students to drop out. I've met several who said their instructor scared them away from flying. It is also sort of like crying wolf all the time - eventually no one pays attention. Weather briefers in advising pilots say 'VFR not recommended' so often have caused everyone to ignore all such warnings. The proper advice is to obey the rules and have regard for the limitations of yourself and your aircraft. Someone even said we should not fly VFR unless it was CAVU. Surely that was in jest. K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 03:34:28 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted) --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes I have an 81 pitch prop. I need to get it twisted to 85 or, sell it to my friend who finds it just right for his purpose. How do you price something for a friend? It would cost $150 to twist it and it already has 90 hours on it. So, my question is, what is it worth? K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 04:19:11 PM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted) --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Hal, That depends on how "well" you like your friend. I usually let my friends name their price, then under-cut it some, so they know they got a good deal. Chuck do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Prop (was Prop testing data posted) > --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes > > I have an 81 pitch prop. I need to get it twisted to 85 or, sell it to my > friend who finds it just right for his purpose. How do you price something > for a friend? It would cost $150 to twist it and it already has 90 hours > on it. So, my question is, what is it worth? > > > K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > RV6-a N7HK flying! > PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) > > ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 04:20:51 PM PST US From: "Joe Hine" Subject: RE: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" How much Tom???? Joe Hine RV4 C-FYTQ - --> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com BILL- ive got a set of roller rocker arms for sale-tom Tom Whelan President EAA Chapter 1097 wfact01@aol.com 249 Hard Hill Road North PO Box 426 Bethlehem, CT 06751 Tel: 203-266-5300 Fax: 202-266-5140 EAA Technical/Flight Advisor RV-8 540 LYC (Getting Close) S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction) _ ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 04:26:21 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" John, What are oil temps and were is your oil cooler mounted? Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A (150 hrs) >From: "John Furey" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp >Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 10:10:22 -0500 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" > >With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my high >cyl temps for discussion. > >I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even >on a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are >OK but they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle >arrangement. I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more >efficient with very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated. > >John Furey >RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio > > ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 04:29:50 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: N169AK First Flight --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Andy, CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "Andy Karmy" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: "RV List" , "RV9 List" , > "RV-9A@yahoogroups.com" >Subject: RV-List: N169AK First Flight >Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 23:05:38 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" > > >RV9A 90374 - N169AK first flight > >The day dawned clear and cold Sunday February 23, 2003. With the inspection >over, the planning done, checks and double checks finished, fuel added, it >was time to fly. Pulling the plane from the hanger people started showing >up. My wife and I had the plan in mind, but it was great to see a few of my >local EAA buds from the chapter show up just because they knew that I was >going to fly today > >Engine starts easily, and a quick trip down to the pumps for 5 more gallons >of gas. Now its run up time. 2200 RPM static full throttle on the ground is >good for the Sensenich FP prop. Everything is still looking good, so out to >the runway we go. Lineup full throttle, with no flaps I am off in a very >short amount of time. I run a bit on the main gear with the nose in the air >as the RV9 has such a large tail and good elevator control. Lift off is >smooth and climb out is brisk. Its about 40degrees and I am seeing 1600fpm >at 100+mph! Still turning about 2250 RPM during climb out. > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 04:41:08 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List, TAS Vs IAS --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 04:25 PM 2/24/2003 -0600, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net > >I have checked the archives, unable to find anything on the subject of >wether to fly based upon TAS or IAS. Get out the private pilot books!! We need to really understand all the various airspeeds and why they exist. Let's see if I remember from student pilot days: CAS - airspeed adjusted for instrument error IAS - what the instrument shows TAS - airspeed corrected for temperature and altitude K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 05:21:34 PM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss Dan, I have seen the condensation you mention using carb clean. I've never seen it using the brake clean. I live in SE Florida, not exactly the Gobi desert! :-) I only use the brake clean for "quick and dirty" cleaning. As you say, the other solutions are better. I usually scuff with ScotchBrite pads soaked in lacquer thinner. The parts are then treated in AlumiPrep. Others will do more or less. To each his own. Charlie Kuss >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >Since those products evaporate so quickly, I would think they could >potentially cool the part down to the point where condensation might build >up slightly on the surface...even if it's only a tiny amount of >condensation, that still defeats the purpose. > >What's wrong with Alumiprep or MEK or lacquer thinner, or even soapy water? > >do not archive >)_( Dan > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Charlie Kuss" >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Cleaner as pre-prime cleaner? > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss >> >> Been there, done that. Aerosol carb cleaner does not completely evaporate. >Use aerosol automotive brake cleaner instead. It will completely evaporate. >It removes grease and oil products. I only use it for cleaning a few small >parts. It's not very good stuff to be breathing in. >> Charlie Kuss >> >> >--> RV-List message posted by: "" >> > >> > >> >All, >> > >> >I was preparing some internal parts for priming, and it hit me that carb >cleaner would make an excellent cleaner/degreaser of the parts due to: >> >* It's made for Alum. carbs >> >* Most come in high pressue spray cans (blows the stuff out of the holes) >> >* Cheap >> >* Extremely powerful cleaner >> >* Evaporates quickly >> > >> >Anyone think of any reason not to? I did not see any mention of such use >in the archives. It is important to note that your skin will feel like it >is melting if sprayed with the stuff, so definitely use gloves. >> > >> >Thanks, >> >Scott >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 05:46:53 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot Cyl Temp --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer Of course the gauge is accurate right? Jerry do not archive John Furey wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" > > With the discussion about cold cyl temps I thought I would throw in my high cyl temps for discussion. > > I have an O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop. Cyl temps reach 430~450 even on a short climbs. They run 325~390 in cruise. I have been told those are OK but they seem high to me. By the way, I do not have the standard baffle arrangement. I have an enclosed pressure plenum that "should" be much more efficient with very little leakage. Your input would be appreciated. > > John Furey > RV6A - O-320 60hrs in Ohio > > > ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 06:33:15 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying IFR in RVs WAS: Air Box Advisory --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer kempthornes wrote: > > Instructing pilots to be too cautious discourages many and causes students > to drop out. I've met several who said their instructor scared them away > from flying. It is also sort of like crying wolf all the time - eventually > no one pays attention. Weather briefers in advising pilots say 'VFR not > recommended' so often have caused everyone to ignore all such warnings. > "Instructing pilots to be to cautious discourages many and causes many to drop out." Don't even know how to respond to that Hal other than praise the instructor gods for weeding out the pilots that don't like to be cautious. I guess I could teach them to not be cautious and have them push on and be dead now as several are the used to be on this list. :( Jerry do not archive > > Someone even said we should not fly VFR unless it was CAVU. Surely that > was in jest. > > K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > RV6-a N7HK flying! > PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 06:46:00 PM PST US From: "Eustace Bowhay" Subject: Re: RV-List: Adequate Carb Heat --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" Hi Gary: No connection between the crossover pipes and the air box. I built the air box and the door as per the drawings, and now I guess you can call it both, "carb heat or alternate air". Anyway Gary it works well for me, I believe that by not having a direct connection between the crossover and the door you get hotter and higher volume to the air box. The crossover is probably running in the area of 900- 1000 degrees and the hot air has to be drawn down by the air coming through the cylinders so when you close the door this air is sucked directly into the air box and I have a hunch it far exceeds the 75 degree rise required for a carburated engine.As I said I don't have any numbers to back this up but it works in my installation. Is it possible that by installing a muff over the crossovers you might loose a lot of the heat available to the air box. Could you install the second muff on the other exhaust, just a thought, I have Larry's exhaust on the 6A and will take a look tomorrow. I am working on the wheel covers and leg fairings. Eustace ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary" Subject: Re: RV-List: Adequate Carb Heat > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" > > Eustace........on your RV-6, where you say you had no dedicated carb heat.......I am interested in how it was set up. Did you merely have the carb heat door on the top of the filtered air box open to the area below the crossover pipes? Or did you have some sort of tube connecting to the exhaust such as Van's sells now? > > I am considering putting an additional cabin heat muff on the crossover pipes, so it would be very convenient to just draw carb heat air out of the plenum with no connection to the exhaust.........IF it will work well. > > Thanks, > > Gary 9A 90263 > > Snip...........My exhaust system is Allen Tolle's cross-over very similar to Larry's system. When > I installed the fillterd air box it was obvious that the alternate air source > was in an ideal location to capture a good deal of heated air from the two > exhaust pipes running over the opening for the alternate air. I decided to do > some testing without any dedicated carb heat. > > I found that my engine was not prone to carb ice........... > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. > > > --- > > ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 07:09:57 PM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re: Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com To wire the Hobbs properly you should run the wire from your Instrument breaker to one terminal on the oil pressure activator switch. From the other terminal the wire goes to one terminal ( + ) on the Hobbs. From the other (- ) terminal on the Hobbs to ground. This way the Hobbs only runs when the engine has oil pressure to close the activator switch. The lighter socket must run through a circuit breaker, preferably to be off when the master switch is off. If you get smoke from something plugged in you can stop it with the master if circuit breaker doesn't. I want my master to kill ALL electrical stuff. The only thing the wiring from switch/breaker to oil switch to ground would do is pop the breaker or burn up the wire. Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now Charleston, Arkansas "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers" ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 07:13:49 PM PST US From: "Eustace Bowhay" Subject: Re: RV-List: Adequate Carb Heat --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" Hi Gary: In my reply to you I said when you "close the door" it should have read "open the door" Eustace ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary" Subject: Re: RV-List: Adequate Carb Heat > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" > > Eustace........on your RV-6, where you say you had no dedicated carb heat.......I am interested in how it was set up. Did you merely have the carb heat door on the top of the filtered air box open to the area below the crossover pipes? Or did you have some sort of tube connecting to the exhaust such as Van's sells now? > > I am considering putting an additional cabin heat muff on the crossover pipes, so it would be very convenient to just draw carb heat air out of the plenum with no connection to the exhaust.........IF it will work well. > > Thanks, > > Gary 9A 90263 > > Snip...........My exhaust system is Allen Tolle's cross-over very similar to Larry's system. When > I installed the fillterd air box it was obvious that the alternate air source > was in an ideal location to capture a good deal of heated air from the two > exhaust pipes running over the opening for the alternate air. I decided to do > some testing without any dedicated carb heat. > > I found that my engine was not prone to carb ice........... > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. > > > --- > > ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 09:18:26 PM PST US From: "Heinrich Gerhardt" Subject: RV-List: Bendix FI servos --> RV-List message posted by: "Heinrich Gerhardt" Who's a good supplier of parts and/or overhauls for Bendix fuel injection servos and fuel distributors? I've rebuilt diesel fuel injection pumps myself, and these things can't be any more complicated. So far I haven't been able to find parts for rebuild. Heinrich Gerhardt ________________________________ Message 49 ____________________________________ Time: 09:46:28 PM PST US From: "George McNutt" Subject: RV-List: Headsets - Opinions Wanted --> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" Opinions Wanted I have been looking at ANR headsets listed on E-bay and was wondering if the Bose headsets are worth the extra money they go for. I have not tried any of the ANR headsets and wondered if anyone on the List has first hand experience comparing the Bose against Lightspeed or the other ANR sets in their RV. Thanks George McNutt Langley B.C. ________________________________ Message 50 ____________________________________ Time: 10:04:02 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Bendix FI servos --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Hi Heinrich, You can buy parts directly from Precision Airmotive or through their distributors like Aviall. They sell new Bendix Servos, and and overhaul kit for the RSA servos. Warning, it's not cheap. I was just on the phone with them today. An "Overhaul Kit" for the typical RSA-5AD1 is over $900.00. Airflow performance has a few parts, but less than they used to. Hope this helps, Stein Bruch RV6 (Injected), Minneapolis. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Heinrich Gerhardt Subject: RV-List: Bendix FI servos --> RV-List message posted by: "Heinrich Gerhardt" Who's a good supplier of parts and/or overhauls for Bendix fuel injection servos and fuel distributors? I've rebuilt diesel fuel injection pumps myself, and these things can't be any more complicated. So far I haven't been able to find parts for rebuild. Heinrich Gerhardt