Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:01 AM - madison wisc (Andrew Morgan)
2. 03:34 AM - Re: Bendix/King Color MAP MFD (Kevin Horton)
3. 03:48 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Dwight Frye)
4. 04:40 AM - Re: Tach VS Hobbs; was Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt (Wayne R. Couture)
5. 04:50 AM - Raise your hand!/Flying to SunNFun (Boyd C. Braem)
6. 05:04 AM - Re: Bendix/King Color MAP MFD (James E. Clark)
7. 05:12 AM - Re: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun (John Huft)
8. 06:16 AM - Re: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun (Dana Overall)
9. 06:20 AM - Re: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun (Ken Balch)
10. 06:20 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Ken Balch)
11. 06:34 AM - Softcomm ATC-2P intercom (Nightingale Michael)
12. 07:11 AM - Re: Lycoming fuel pump capacity? (Charlie Kuss)
13. 07:18 AM - Bendix/King KMD-150 (Jim Truitt)
14. 07:20 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Charles Rowbotham)
15. 07:42 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Tracy Crook)
16. 07:51 AM - Re: Bendix/King KMD-150 ()
17. 08:10 AM - Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Ken Brooks)
18. 08:27 AM - Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (dmedema@att.net)
19. 08:31 AM - Re: Tach VS Hobbs; was Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt (Rob Prior)
20. 08:58 AM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (Rob Miller)
21. 09:15 AM - Re: satellite radio on an RV? (Pat Hatch)
22. 09:19 AM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (Pat Hatch)
23. 09:30 AM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (Scott Bilinski)
24. 09:50 AM - Need Collins GLS350 Glideslope Indicator wiring diagram (Chuck Weyant)
25. 09:50 AM - Intercoms vs. Audio Panel Intercoms (Chuck Weyant)
26. 09:55 AM - to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) (Dan Checkoway)
27. 10:02 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Brian Denk)
28. 10:09 AM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
29. 10:10 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Jim Norman)
30. 10:26 AM - Re: Need Collins GLS350 Glideslope Indicator wiring diagram (Kenneth Beene)
31. 10:38 AM - Re: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) (Rob Prior)
32. 10:44 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
33. 10:56 AM - Re: Wing wiring (Stucklen, Frederic IFC)
34. 10:58 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Jim Norman)
35. 11:05 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Dan Checkoway)
36. 11:34 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Sam Buchanan)
37. 11:56 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (van Bladeren, Ron)
38. 11:57 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Patrick Kelley)
39. 12:24 PM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (kempthornes)
40. 12:36 PM - Raise Your Hand (Perry Rhoads)
41. 12:59 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Elsa & Henry)
42. 01:07 PM - Re: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) (Jeff Point)
43. 01:53 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Randy Lervold)
44. 02:05 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?-Pics (Dana Overall)
45. 02:51 PM - Re: N2GX First Flight (Jim Streit)
46. 03:20 PM - Tip up canopy frame riveting (Bob Hartley)
47. 05:27 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (thomas a. sargent)
48. 06:06 PM - Re: Raise your hand! (Chopper)
49. 06:42 PM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (Jim Oke)
50. 07:20 PM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (RWPRV6A@aol.com)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Andrew Morgan" <amorgan53@charter.net>
anyone building an rv in the madison area?
i'd like to see the project first hand, maybe
lend a hand if i can, and get a head start on
the learning curve for when my turn comes...
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/King Color MAP MFD |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
At 10:52 PM -0800 27/2/03, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>
>I working on pricing out my panel and I looked at Bendix/King
>KMD-150. I'm seeing this for under 3K. Seem like a great deal
>compared to a Garmin 430. Does anyone fly with the KMD-150? I know
>you get what you pay for but the Garmin is such a pricy component.
>
>Also, how do these moving maps handle doing aerobatics? Is it hard
>on them? Do you just turn them off? Here is a link to the King I'm
>talking about.
>
>Let me know what you think.
>http://www.pacific-coast-avionics.com/detail.asp?id4627
>
>
>Karie Daniel
>Sammamish, WA
>RV-7A QB
>
The KMA-150 and the GNS-430 are very different animals. The KMA-150
provides a very nice moving map display, but it doesn't provide the
other capabilities of the GNS-430. The GNS-430 also provides an IFR
approved GPS, COM, NAV, Glideslope.
If you don't need the additional capabilities that the 430 provides,
then the KMA-150 might be a good choice for you. If you do need an
IFR GPS, COM, NAV and GS, then you need to price those out too, and
add it to the price of the KMA-150.
Aerobatics shouldn't bother these things at all, as there are no
spinning gyros inside.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Raise your hand! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
On Thu Feb 27 21:19:32 2003, RW wrote :
>All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand.
>
>All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand.
I'll be going with my wife and another local (non-RV) builder. Since I
am working on my wings still, we'll be driving from North Carolina. :)
-- Dwight
Do Not Archive
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tach VS Hobbs; was Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
> ------------snip----------------------
> The tachometer measures revolutions, not time.
> >
> > This brings up a good point. When a manufacturer specifies TBO, is
it Hobb's time or tach time? When a flight school has to do a 50 or 100
hour inspection do they use the tach or hobb's?
Do not archive
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Raise your hand!/Flying to SunNFun |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Gentle Listers--
If flying into SunNFun please be sure to read the info on LANDING at the
airport. Last year, there were several serious problems caused by people
LANDING SHORT on the runway/taxiway. At SnF, you need to land long and then
expedite your exit from the runway. If you are unsure of your proficiency in
this type of landing, practice at your home base beforehand.
Also, be advised that the Parts Mart (Fly Market) will not be in its usual
building next to the playground/gate to the camping area. It will now be in a
tent next to the Ultralight area (ie, closer to the main entrance).
Boyd
Super-6
Venice, FL
> <snip>
>
> Dick,
>
> I'm raising my hand. Guess which one? ;) Of course, I haven't seen the
> arrival procedures on the SNF website yet, so if it doesn't totally freak me
> out, I'll still go!
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Bendix/King Color MAP MFD |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
Nice unit for the price.
It can come with "internal GPS" (add antenna) or can be fed by external GPS
you may have in panel.
The CDI out can be used for the Navaid autopilot.
Make sure you get one with the "new" display (there was an update a while
back) as some you find may be older "reconditioned" units. (I think that is
what we have).
There will be some glare problems in certain conditions but that is the case
with just about anything in the RV tip-up.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Karie Daniel
> Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 1:53 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Bendix/King Color MAP MFD
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>
> I working on pricing out my panel and I looked at Bendix/King
> KMD-150. I'm seeing this for under 3K. Seem like a great deal
> compared to a Garmin 430. Does anyone fly with the KMD-150? I
> know you get what you pay for but the Garmin is such a pricy component.
>
> Also, how do these moving maps handle doing aerobatics? Is it
> hard on them? Do you just turn them off? Here is a link to the
> King I'm talking about.
>
> Let me know what you think.
> http://www.pacific-coast-avionics.com/detail.asp?id4627
>
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA
> RV-7A QB
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Raise your hand! -- sun n fun |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <aflyer@direcway.com>
I will be there with my newly painted 8.
I lost the post...was it lunchtime thursday at Van's tent?
John Huft
Pagosa Springs, CO
www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RW
Subject: RV-List: Raise your hand!
--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand.
All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand.
I have my other hand up.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Old Crow
Newport, OR
Do not archive
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Raise your hand! -- sun n fun |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
OK, now what's the deal at Van's on Thursday? Put faces with names??
BTW, got my other Southwest Airline hand up. Flown there, camped there,
would do it multiple times again.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "John Huft" <aflyer@direcway.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun
>Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 06:19:10 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <aflyer@direcway.com>
>
>I will be there with my newly painted 8.
>
>I lost the post...was it lunchtime thursday at Van's tent?
>
>John Huft
>Pagosa Springs, CO
>www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RW
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Raise your hand!
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
>
>All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand.
>
>All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand.
>
>I have my other hand up.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8 N94DW
>Old Crow
>Newport, OR
>
>
>Do not archive
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
I'll be there with my unpainted -8. It's going into the paintshop after
SnF, so it'll be painted in time for OSH.
11:30 @ Van's tent on Thursday. Primarily for -8 builders/pilots, but
everyone is welcome, of course.
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
John Huft wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <aflyer@direcway.com>
>
>I will be there with my newly painted 8.
>
>I lost the post...was it lunchtime thursday at Van's tent?
>
>John Huft
>Pagosa Springs, CO
>www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RW
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Raise your hand!
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
>
>All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand.
>
>All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand.
>
>I have my other hand up.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8 N94DW
>Old Crow
>Newport, OR
>
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Raise your hand! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
I'll be there in my RV.
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
RW wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
>
>All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand.
>
>All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand.
>
>I have my other hand up.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8 N94DW
>Old Crow
>Newport, OR
>
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
"'rv-list@matronics.com'" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Softcomm ATC-2P intercom |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichaelV@JohnDeere.com>
Question:
Does anyone have experience with Softcomm intercoms especially with the
ATC-2P panel mounted 2 place intercom?
http://www.softcommheadsets.com/aviation-products/index.htm
Thanks
90259 Fuselage
Michael V. Nightingale
DEERE & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST.
Moline, IL. 61265
pager 563-327-7891
nightingalemichael@johndeere.com
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming fuel pump capacity? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Jeff,
You need to replace the low pressure mechanical fuel pump (LW15472) with the higher
pressure unit for fuel injected units (LW15473). You will also need a different
electric fuel pump. The Facet unit used on the carburetor models will
not generate and regulate the higher (24 -26 PSI needed). Vans electric pump kit
should work.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>Help, I have an 0-360 that Im trying to convert to fuel injection. I have a bendix
fuel injector and am wondering if I need to upgrade my engine fuel pump
to one of higher capacity. How about the electric pump requirements? Im thinking
about buying Vans kit but Im not sure if I need all of it. Has anyone else
done this?
>
>Jeff Dowling
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Bendix/King KMD-150 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov>
Karie,
This may not help much, but ... I have the KMD-150, but haven't flown
with it yet. Suggest you see a demo at Sun & Fun or Oshkosh. I did and
was impressed enough to buy. One thing I like (or will like, I think) is that
the program card that you update contains not just the database, but the
entire operating program. The advantage is that you will get any new
program features or functions that come along when you update.
I was looking at the Skyforce GPS, which is similar to the KMD, but
portable. I fould that the Skyforce would require several hundred dollars
of interface hardware to work with the Navaid wing leveler. The KMD
did not and would wire directly to the Navaid.
Best price I found (Oshkosh 2002) was $2750 at American Avionics.
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Raise your hand! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Dave & I plan to fly our 8A this year and hopefully camp.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Raise your hand!
>Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 18:19:32 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
>
>All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand.
>
>All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand.
>
>I have my other hand up.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8 N94DW
>Old Crow
>Newport, OR
>
>
>Do not archive
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Raise your hand! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
I be there with my -4. Parked on the Auto Powered row 19 instead of the
usual RV parking lot. Next year with the 3 rotor powered RV-8 (if I don't
fall off any more ladders) : )
Tracy Crook
13B rotary powered RV-4
> >
> >All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand.
> >
> >All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other
hand.
> >
> >I have my other hand up.
> >
> >Dick White
> >RV-8 N94DW
> >Old Crow
> >Newport, OR
> >
> >
> >Do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/King KMD-150 |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov>
>
> I fould that the Skyforce would require several hundred
> dollars of interface hardware to work with the Navaid wing leveler.
Not sure what interface option would require several hundred dollars, but
there is a reasonable $150 solution available directly from Navaid (Smart
Coupler II).
Rob Acker (RV-6, Skyforce w/Navaid)
do not archive
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges?
It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of
hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron
movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used
the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo?
Thanks in advance!
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks,
Randy!
Do not archive
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around
the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was
planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could
match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding
part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was
hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass.
My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting
inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy?
The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of
electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I
would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape
on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape?
What kind of release agent are people using to prevent
any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the
canopy?
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport.
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tach VS Hobbs; was Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Wayne R. Couture wrote:
>>The tachometer measures revolutions, not time.
>>
> This brings up a good point. When a manufacturer specifies TBO, is
> it Hobb's time or tach time? When a flight school has to do a 50 or 100
> hour inspection do they use the tach or hobb's?
I have known flight schools with aircraft whose Hobb's power was wired
to the Master. It was a little known trick that you might save 0.1 or
so on your bill at the end of the day by turning off the master once
Ground had cleared you to taxi in...
50 and 100 hour inspections, as far as I know, are tied to TTAF, which
is counted from Air Time (wheels up to wheels down) not Flight Time
(startup to shutdown, or tach/hobbs/whatever). A bean-counter would
want to use the Hobbs, because it would mean you'd actually get 50 hours
between inspections.
-RB4
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Doug
Fiberglass will not stick to electrical tape. Brown packaging tape also
works well and will not stick to the resin (Use this around the front of
the slider section). Be careful to squeegie out any excess resin before
adding the cloth, otherwise you may have a beautiful one-piece canopy/fuse
;). Use some automotive wax on metal parts that MAY come into contact
with resin, just to be on the safe side. Also, spray the entire plexi
with Pledge (with the exception of the areas you want to bond) before
doing the fiberglass work as insurance against stray resin.
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 47 hrs
--- dmedema@att.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around
> the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was
> planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could
> match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding
> part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was
> hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass.
>
> My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting
> inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy?
> The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of
> electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I
> would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape
> on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape?
> What kind of release agent are people using to prevent
> any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the
> canopy?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport.
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: satellite radio on an RV? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Jeff,
I have an XM-ready Pioneer CD receiver in my RV-6 and I have provsioned for
an antenna on top of the vertical stab, made the fiberglass tip removable,
etc. Problem is I haven't found an XM antenna that will fit there yet. I
am sure one will be coming. Sony has one about the size of a large golf
ball but still a little too big. Satellite radio will work fine, there is
actually an aviation XM receiver out there for big bucks.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: satellite radio on an RV?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Has anyone tried using one of the satellite radio services (xm or
stratius?) on thier plane? I cant see why it wouldnt work.
>
> Jeff Dowling
>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Doug,
I did exactly that only I used the brown packing tape with the gloss finish.
I used the 2" wide stuff and made sure I went back far enough. No release
agent required.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around
> the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was
> planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could
> match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding
> part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was
> hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass.
>
> My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting
> inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy?
> The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of
> electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I
> would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape
> on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape?
> What kind of release agent are people using to prevent
> any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the
> canopy?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport.
>
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Using release agents scare me, if some is left on a surface by freak
accident and that will receive paint, well thats one problem I dont want to
deal with. I just used brown box tape as mentioned and mummified
everything, it works great.
At 08:56 AM 2/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
>
>Doug
>
>Fiberglass will not stick to electrical tape. Brown packaging tape also
>works well and will not stick to the resin (Use this around the front of
>the slider section). Be careful to squeegie out any excess resin before
>adding the cloth, otherwise you may have a beautiful one-piece canopy/fuse
>;). Use some automotive wax on metal parts that MAY come into contact
>with resin, just to be on the safe side. Also, spray the entire plexi
>with Pledge (with the exception of the areas you want to bond) before
>doing the fiberglass work as insurance against stray resin.
>
>Rob Miller
>-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 47 hrs
>
>
>--- dmedema@att.net wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>>
>> Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around
>> the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was
>> planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could
>> match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding
>> part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was
>> hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass.
>>
>> My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting
>> inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy?
>> The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of
>> electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I
>> would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape
>> on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape?
>> What kind of release agent are people using to prevent
>> any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the
>> canopy?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Doug Medema
>> RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Need Collins GLS350 Glideslope Indicator wiring diagram |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck@chuckdirect.com>
Does anyone have a Collins GLS350 Glideslope/Localizer Indicator wiring Install
diagram or install instructions I could get a copy of?
Chuck Weyant
RV9A Slowbuild (Firewall Forward & Electrics) Yaay!
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Intercoms vs. Audio Panel Intercoms |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck@chuckdirect.com>
Does anyone see any reason I wouldn't want to use the intercom feature of my King
KMA (I can't remember the number, but I just bought it reconditioned from Vista
Aviation, Van Nuys, CA)? I know some of the guys have a seperate intercom
even though they might have an audio panel with the intercom feature. Why?
Chuck Weyant
RV9A
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm considering modifying the RV-7 tip-up canopy by riveting on a thin strip
of skin along the bottom side edges of the canopy. That strip of skin would
overlap the fuselage side skin by about 1/2" or 3/4" or so. I would fill
over the joint along the canopy skin so you wouldn't even know it's a
separate piece. I would put UHMW tape on the inside of the overlapping skin
so it doesn't chafe the fuselage sides.
This seems like it would seal better, look better when closed, and alleviate
some of the forward fitting headaches I'm having where the fwd canopy frame
and canopy meets the longerons.
Has anybody done this type of overlap modification? If so, got any
pictures? Happy with it? Would you recommend it?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (can of pee)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>
>What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges?
>It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of
>hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron
>movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used
>the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo?
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Ken Brooks
>Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks,
>Randy!
>Do not archive
I found no specific safety device was required on my airplane. The pins are
so tight they have not budged a millimeter in over three years. I drilled a
small hole in the inboard aileron hinge brackets to insert them (via
spinning drill motor). Once they were in (after much cussing and gnashing
of teeth), I just slightly bent the exposed end so they would not drift out
through that same hole and foul the aileron. The pins will not move inboard
without hitting the belly of the fuselage. No cotter pins required.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
300+ hours.
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
I used car wax, nothing else. And don't squeegee excess out.
Mike Stewart
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
What kind of release agent are people using to prevent
any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the
canopy?
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Raise your hand! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
I will be there with Razzmatazz...
jim
tampa
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Need Collins GLS350 Glideslope Indicator wiring diagram |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kenneth Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
Chuck,
I have diagrams for GLS350, VIR351 and IND351A. I will get them from the
hangar, scan and email them to you.
Ken
http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
This sounds a lot like a mod that people have done to their RV-6 slider
canopy... I know i've seen it on a few. The mod would probably work
just fine on a tip-up canopy, but you'd have to be careful not to get a
slight twist in the canopy when dropping it into place... If it was
off-center at all, you'd probably bend that overlapping piece quite easily.
Search for photos of RV-6 (and maybe -9) sliders for hints. The method
does seal the canopy quite well.
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm considering modifying the RV-7 tip-up canopy by riveting on a thin strip
> of skin along the bottom side edges of the canopy. That strip of skin would
> overlap the fuselage side skin by about 1/2" or 3/4" or so. I would fill
> over the joint along the canopy skin so you wouldn't even know it's a
> separate piece. I would put UHMW tape on the inside of the overlapping skin
> so it doesn't chafe the fuselage sides.
>
> This seems like it would seal better, look better when closed, and alleviate
> some of the forward fitting headaches I'm having where the fwd canopy frame
> and canopy meets the longerons.
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Have the 90 in the middle of the hinge. You will have to cut off an ear or 2
of the hinge. But the pins will meet in the middle, and be pushed in from
the middle out. No safety wire required. Only down side I have found is to
be careful when washing the plane that when you stick your hand under there
to giver her a wipe, remember those pins are hanging down slightly.
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy@hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>
>What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges?
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Darwin,
Running the NAV power wires and the strobes cable together is OK. And
running the NAV power leads with a NAV/COM antenna lead is OK. But don't run
any NAV/COM antenna leads with strobe cables. That's just asking for an
interference problem. That may require you to run a second conduit.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV Reserved
Here's the layout. RV7QB. Existing holes with snap in bushings were
drilled out
light wire
and the strobe wires (Whelens)in the conduit. I also want to mount a
comm antenna
in one wing tip and a nav in the other.
I'd like to know if I can run the coax for the nav and comm antennas
in the conduit
And, if
so, how far apart should they be run?
Thanks in advance.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
ditto
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>
>What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges?
>It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of
>hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron
>movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used
>the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo?
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Ken Brooks
>Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks,
>Randy!
>Do not archive
I found no specific safety device was required on my airplane. The pins are
so tight they have not budged a millimeter in over three years. I drilled a
small hole in the inboard aileron hinge brackets to insert them (via
spinning drill motor). Once they were in (after much cussing and gnashing
of teeth), I just slightly bent the exposed end so they would not drift out
through that same hole and foul the aileron. The pins will not move inboard
without hitting the belly of the fuselage. No cotter pins required.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
300+ hours.
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Have the 90 in the middle of the hinge. You will have to cut off an ear or
2
> of the hinge. But the pins will meet in the middle, and be pushed in from
> the middle out. No safety wire required. Only down side I have found is to
> be careful when washing the plane that when you stick your hand under
there
> to giver her a wipe, remember those pins are hanging down slightly.
You can also install those pins so that the bent tabs go on the inside and
get safetied to the flap brace. Tougher to get at that way, but they're
totally hidden (and secured), and how often do you need to remove your
flaps? 8-)
)_( Dan
do not archive
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Have the 90 in the middle of the hinge. You will have to cut off an ear or 2
> of the hinge. But the pins will meet in the middle, and be pushed in from
> the middle out. No safety wire required. Only down side I have found is to
> be careful when washing the plane that when you stick your hand under there
> to giver her a wipe, remember those pins are hanging down slightly.
>
> Mike Stewart
A method that is similar to the above and has been used many times is to
remove a couple eyes in the middle of flap hinge, cut the hinge pin into
two pieces, and insert them from the center of the hinge while the flap
is hanging at a 90 degree position. You can form a ninety in the ends of
the pins at the center of the flap, and the ends can be wired to the
flap brace. This method eliminates the snag that Mike mentioned and is
easy to access once the flap actuation rods are disconnected.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
Initially, I drilled the small hole in the aileron bracket and installed the
hinge pins from outboard to inboard. I didn't like that method because it
seemed to me the only logical place to safety the pin was on the inboard end
of the flap (I don't like relying on pin friction to retain the pin. They
all loosen up eventually). Problem is, once you bend the pin over on the
inboard end, you can no longer extract it out the aileron end.
So I decided to try installing from under the fuselage, inboard to outboard.
That worked pretty good! I left the pin about 1/2" longer then the hinge,
bent it over 90 degrees and used one loop section of an old hinge to
secured it to the lower flap skin next to the rod end bracket. An added
benefit is that I can remove the flap without having to mess with the
aileron. A second pair of hands to move the flap up and down while you push
in the pin helps until the hinge wears in a little.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Brooks [mailto:kenbrooks@charter.net]
Subject: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges?
It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of
hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron
movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used
the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo?
Thanks in advance!
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks,
Randy!
Do not archive
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
I even went so far as to put a nutplate behind the flap brace and loops
in the end of my hinge wires so they can be secured with a screw to the
brace. However, I found it extremely difficult to get the hinges in and
out during fitting so I think I did a little extra work for no good
purpose. If I were to do it again, I would split the hinges but measure
them so they butted against each other, leaving them straight so they
can be 'spun-in' with a drill. Then I'd install a sleeve (small
aluminum tube available at hobby shop) over the ends to complete the
butt joint. Heat shrink tubing over the sleeve would keep it from
moving until you wanted it to - in fact it would probably be sufficient
without the sleeve. Light, easy, and why the heck didn't I think of it
until I finished the wings?
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - baggage ribs being fitted to fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Have the 90 in the middle of the hinge. You will have to cut off an
ear or 2
> of the hinge. But the pins will meet in the middle, and be pushed in
from
> the middle out. No safety wire required. Only down side I have found
is to
> be careful when washing the plane that when you stick your hand under
there
> to giver her a wipe, remember those pins are hanging down slightly.
>
> Mike Stewart
A method that is similar to the above and has been used many times is to
remove a couple eyes in the middle of flap hinge, cut the hinge pin into
two pieces, and insert them from the center of the hinge while the flap
is hanging at a 90 degree position. You can form a ninety in the ends of
the pins at the center of the flap, and the ends can be wired to the
flap brace. This method eliminates the snag that Mike mentioned and is
easy to access once the flap actuation rods are disconnected.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I am Kindergartener when it comes to fiberglass but I had some success with
toilet bowl wax. I am not ready to use it on the airplane till I
experiment more. Maybe someone already has??
It is very cheap. Perhaps I should keep my mouth shut and re-package it as
"RV Fairing Fiberglass No Stick Wax".
Only 6.95 for four ounces. Plus crating charge and shipping. :-)
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Perry Rhoads" <perryrhoads@ctnet.net>
From Litchfield, IL we'll have a motorhome,Luscombe, Pitts S1S, and my RV-3.
Perry Rhoads
RV-3
N96GW
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I just drilled a hole for a .075 dia cotter-pin in the most outboard hinge
eye, in the center of it. I had drilled a hole in the inboard aileron hinge
bracket, lined-up with the flap hinge so the hinge pin can be inserted
through the bracket (aileron not installed, of course) The pin is cut to
length so the inboard end touches the fuselage and the outboard end is just
inside the cotter-pin hole. Its easy to insert the cotter pin from below and
bend it just like the aileron hinges in the Cessnas
Cheers!!--Henry Hore-- -6A, C-GELS, Cornwall, Ont.
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Why not just make a new set of side skins, about 1/2 or 3/4 wider?
That's what I did, out of neccessity, since I raised the height of the
roll over frame and canopy by an inch for more headroom. It seemed to
work out OK, but it isn't flying yet.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit
Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
I did exactly what Brian did. Looks like we're either both really smart or
both really stupid... ;-)
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 295 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0600
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
> >
> >What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges?
> >It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of
> >hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron
> >movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used
> >the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo?
> >Thanks in advance!
> >
> >Ken Brooks
> >Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks,
> >Randy!
> >Do not archive
>
> I found no specific safety device was required on my airplane. The pins
are
> so tight they have not budged a millimeter in over three years. I drilled
a
> small hole in the inboard aileron hinge brackets to insert them (via
> spinning drill motor). Once they were in (after much cussing and gnashing
> of teeth), I just slightly bent the exposed end so they would not drift
out
> through that same hole and foul the aileron. The pins will not move
inboard
> without hitting the belly of the fuselage. No cotter pins required.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 300+ hours.
>
>
Message 44
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?-Pics |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Here are two pictures that illustrate what Dan and Sam said. I did this and
it works great. The elbows will go on the inside of the hinge at final
assembly. Just grind off two eyelets on one side and one on the other.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/p1070003.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/p1070006.jpg
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 45
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: N2GX First Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
CONGRATULATIONS Gabe and Marisol. Hope you have many hours of enjoyment with you
airplane
Jim Streit
Coral Springs, fl
rv-9a
90073
fuse
Gabe and Marisol Ferrer wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe and Marisol Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
>
>First flight of RV6 N2GX today.
>Uneventful, except that I forgot to lock my tipup canopy.
>Not terribly smart. I now have a written checklist.
>The canopy stayed open about 4 to 5 inches while I flew around the pattern
>to land.
>Locked canopy and took off again.
>
>My thanks to all in the RV List. I've learned a lot from you.
>
>Gabe A Ferrer
>RV6 N2GX. 2 hours. South Florida.
>ferrergm@bellsouth.net
>Cell: 561 758 8894
>Night or FAX: 561 622 0960
>
>
>
>
Message 46
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tip up canopy frame riveting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
Ref: Tip up canopy frame RV9A (same as 7A)
I've finished all the fitting and drilling of the canopy frame and the next
step is to start fitting and cutting the plexi glass. However, there is no
mention of riveting the actual canopy frame skin to the canopy frame. How
can I fit the plexi with clecoes sticking out of the canopy frame? Do I go
ahead and rivet it together now?
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
Message 47
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.com>
Ken Brooks wrote:
>What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges?
>
>
>
Ken:
Gus at Vans advised me to use the method of inserting the hinge pins
thru a carefully aligned hole drilled in the inboard aileron bracket.
He said to secure it with a bit of stainless safety wire run thru a
small hole drilled thru the last hinge eye, which I will do, but that
hinge is pretty soft aluminum and I don't trust it. So what I'm going
to do is plug up the hole in the bracket thru which the pin is inserted
with a panhead #4 screw with a nylock nut on the other side. That will
keep the hinge from ever backing out.
Gus said that on his plane he had done the usual design of removing a
couple hinge eyes in the middle of the flap and inserting 2 hinge pins
from the middle out. But he now thinks it's too hard to get the hinge
pin in and out. He favors the hole in the aileron bracket method.
>--
>
Tom Sargent RV-6A
>
>
Message 48
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Raise your hand! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chopper" <mkellems@tnweb.com>
Always lurking here -But,I do intend to be at S-N-F in my -4------------
Mike Kellems
Do Not Archive
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC]
Message 49
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Doug;
I used modelling clay to fill the canopy bow/frame gap and smooth out the
bumps and get the contour I wanted. Then I used a couple of layers of clear
packing tape (from Office Depot or similar) to cover this over and work back
over the plexi a little way.
The epoxy will not stick to this tape and it was no big problem getting the
canopy "unstuck" afterwards. I eased a thin steel ruler under the built-up
fiberglass stip and slide it back and for a few times and the canopy came
open easily enough. (Watch where you put your tape so yu don't seal it close
semi-permenantly !)
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A (at the airport, finishing details and waiting for warmer vweather...)
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around
> the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was
> planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could
> match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding
> part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was
> hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass.
>
> My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting
> inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy?
> The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of
> electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I
> would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape
> on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape?
> What kind of release agent are people using to prevent
> any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the
> canopy?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport.
>
>
Message 50
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: RWPRV6A@aol.com
Doug, I did mine much differently than most. I made my fiberglass fairing
removable initially, sanded it, filed it, etc., etc., until I had exactly
what I wanted. With the canopy closed and latched, I used regular duct tape
(the silver stuff) two or three rows wide. Inevitably, there were some
wrinkles around the turns/bends but when the fairing is permanently attached,
they are not an issue. After laying the duct tape on, I carefully marked off
where I wanted the fiberglass, i.e., approximately two inches wide along the
front, wider on the sides, and of course about two inches over the roll bar
area with 3/4 inch overlap over the canopy. Once marked, I used some really
thick (about 1/16 inch) electrical tape (purchased at the local Lowes store)
and followed my marking to outline the fairing area. You could even layer
two strips of the thick electrical tape if you wanted. Then I cut all of the
pieces of fiberglass strips and had them all ready at glass time. Make sure
you use "Epoxy" type resin, not polyester. I believe I had 4 layers in most
areas, and 5 or 6 layers where needed (very front of windscreen and on
sides). The electrical tape gives you a nice edge to butt up against. After
the fiberglass was completely cured (about 36 hours) I did some sanding while
still on the airplane, then removed the electrical tape, found a little
corner to get under, and popped the whole thing off. I sanded, filed,
sanded, filed, yada yada yada, until I was happy with the results. When
ready to bond the windscreen on permanently, lightly scuff the plexiglas in
the area where the fairing goes, the top skin, and the inside of the fairing.
Set the fairing back on and drill about four 1/8 inch holes through the
fairing into the front aluminum, one or two into the longeron, and about 5-6
over the roll bar area, right through the windscreen and into the roll bar.
Counter sink the holes for pop rivets. Then I placed regular electrical tape
both on the inside perimeter and outside perimeter approximately 3/16" away
from the fairing except where the sliding canopy goes. In fact, slide the
canopy out of your way. At this point, you are ready to permanently mount
your masterpiece. There are a couple of bonding agents that are completely
safe for plexi, 1, good ol pro-seal (yuck!) and 2, the stuff used on Pitts
canopies made by 3M called Scotch-Weld, 2216 B/A (gray) Epoxy Adhesive. The
latter is what I used. Mix up very generous amount, spread it heavily on the
inside of the fairing except where the fairing overlaps the sliding canopy
section. Tape off this section with one width of electrical tape (3/4") to
prevent epoxy from the overlap. Place the fairing on the aircraft being
careful not to let it touch where it shouldn't. Adjust, put the pop rivets
in, and smooth out the "squeezed out" epoxy into the 3/16" space provided by
the electrical tape. Clean/remove any epoxy that squeezed out under the
fairing by the roll bar, remove the piece of electrical tape from the inside
and allow the epoxy to cure. As this epoxy begins to cure (about 2-3 hours)
you can smooth it out with a spit cover fingertip. For some reason, it won't
stick to spit. After about 4-5 hours, you can remove the electrical tape.
The whole thing will cure in about 12-24 hours. The reason for the 3/16"
epoxy bead is that when you paint your aircraft, you can mask off about
1/32"-1/16" of the epoxy and paint right on over the fairing onto the epoxy,
leaving short this little exposed epoxy, without the fear of paint getting on
the Plexiglas and causing crazing.
I know this sounds like a lot more work, and in reality it is, but I am very
pleased with my results.
Ultimately, what ever method you choose, you will be ecstatic just to get
passed that frigid stage. I know I was.
PS Make sure you sufficiently cover the exposed aluminum on the front and
sides of the fuselage to keep resin off.
Good Luck,
Ralph
RV-6A, engine hangin!!!!
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|