---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 02/28/03: 50 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:01 AM - madison wisc (Andrew Morgan) 2. 03:34 AM - Re: Bendix/King Color MAP MFD (Kevin Horton) 3. 03:48 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Dwight Frye) 4. 04:40 AM - Re: Tach VS Hobbs; was Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt (Wayne R. Couture) 5. 04:50 AM - Raise your hand!/Flying to SunNFun (Boyd C. Braem) 6. 05:04 AM - Re: Bendix/King Color MAP MFD (James E. Clark) 7. 05:12 AM - Re: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun (John Huft) 8. 06:16 AM - Re: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun (Dana Overall) 9. 06:20 AM - Re: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun (Ken Balch) 10. 06:20 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Ken Balch) 11. 06:34 AM - Softcomm ATC-2P intercom (Nightingale Michael) 12. 07:11 AM - Re: Lycoming fuel pump capacity? (Charlie Kuss) 13. 07:18 AM - Bendix/King KMD-150 (Jim Truitt) 14. 07:20 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Charles Rowbotham) 15. 07:42 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Tracy Crook) 16. 07:51 AM - Re: Bendix/King KMD-150 () 17. 08:10 AM - Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Ken Brooks) 18. 08:27 AM - Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (dmedema@att.net) 19. 08:31 AM - Re: Tach VS Hobbs; was Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt (Rob Prior) 20. 08:58 AM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (Rob Miller) 21. 09:15 AM - Re: satellite radio on an RV? (Pat Hatch) 22. 09:19 AM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (Pat Hatch) 23. 09:30 AM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (Scott Bilinski) 24. 09:50 AM - Need Collins GLS350 Glideslope Indicator wiring diagram (Chuck Weyant) 25. 09:50 AM - Intercoms vs. Audio Panel Intercoms (Chuck Weyant) 26. 09:55 AM - to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) (Dan Checkoway) 27. 10:02 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Brian Denk) 28. 10:09 AM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (mstewart@qa.butler.com) 29. 10:10 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Jim Norman) 30. 10:26 AM - Re: Need Collins GLS350 Glideslope Indicator wiring diagram (Kenneth Beene) 31. 10:38 AM - Re: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) (Rob Prior) 32. 10:44 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (mstewart@qa.butler.com) 33. 10:56 AM - Re: Wing wiring (Stucklen, Frederic IFC) 34. 10:58 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Jim Norman) 35. 11:05 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Dan Checkoway) 36. 11:34 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Sam Buchanan) 37. 11:56 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (van Bladeren, Ron) 38. 11:57 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Patrick Kelley) 39. 12:24 PM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (kempthornes) 40. 12:36 PM - Raise Your Hand (Perry Rhoads) 41. 12:59 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Elsa & Henry) 42. 01:07 PM - Re: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) (Jeff Point) 43. 01:53 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Randy Lervold) 44. 02:05 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?-Pics (Dana Overall) 45. 02:51 PM - Re: N2GX First Flight (Jim Streit) 46. 03:20 PM - Tip up canopy frame riveting (Bob Hartley) 47. 05:27 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (thomas a. sargent) 48. 06:06 PM - Re: Raise your hand! (Chopper) 49. 06:42 PM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (Jim Oke) 50. 07:20 PM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (RWPRV6A@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:01:56 AM PST US From: "Andrew Morgan" Subject: RV-List: madison wisc --> RV-List message posted by: "Andrew Morgan" anyone building an rv in the madison area? i'd like to see the project first hand, maybe lend a hand if i can, and get a head start on the learning curve for when my turn comes... ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:34:03 AM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: Bendix/King Color MAP MFD --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton At 10:52 PM -0800 27/2/03, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" > >I working on pricing out my panel and I looked at Bendix/King >KMD-150. I'm seeing this for under 3K. Seem like a great deal >compared to a Garmin 430. Does anyone fly with the KMD-150? I know >you get what you pay for but the Garmin is such a pricy component. > >Also, how do these moving maps handle doing aerobatics? Is it hard >on them? Do you just turn them off? Here is a link to the King I'm >talking about. > >Let me know what you think. >http://www.pacific-coast-avionics.com/detail.asp?id4627 > > >Karie Daniel >Sammamish, WA >RV-7A QB > The KMA-150 and the GNS-430 are very different animals. The KMA-150 provides a very nice moving map display, but it doesn't provide the other capabilities of the GNS-430. The GNS-430 also provides an IFR approved GPS, COM, NAV, Glideslope. If you don't need the additional capabilities that the 430 provides, then the KMA-150 might be a good choice for you. If you do need an IFR GPS, COM, NAV and GS, then you need to price those out too, and add it to the price of the KMA-150. Aerobatics shouldn't bother these things at all, as there are no spinning gyros inside. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:48:41 AM PST US From: Dwight Frye Subject: Re: RV-List: Raise your hand! --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye On Thu Feb 27 21:19:32 2003, RW wrote : >All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand. > >All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand. I'll be going with my wife and another local (non-RV) builder. Since I am working on my wings still, we'll be driving from North Carolina. :) -- Dwight Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:40:42 AM PST US From: "Wayne R. Couture" Subject: Re: RV-List: Tach VS Hobbs; was Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" > ------------snip---------------------- > The tachometer measures revolutions, not time. > > > > This brings up a good point. When a manufacturer specifies TBO, is it Hobb's time or tach time? When a flight school has to do a 50 or 100 hour inspection do they use the tach or hobb's? Do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 04:50:43 AM PST US From: "Boyd C. Braem" Subject: RV-List: Raise your hand!/Flying to SunNFun --> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" Gentle Listers-- If flying into SunNFun please be sure to read the info on LANDING at the airport. Last year, there were several serious problems caused by people LANDING SHORT on the runway/taxiway. At SnF, you need to land long and then expedite your exit from the runway. If you are unsure of your proficiency in this type of landing, practice at your home base beforehand. Also, be advised that the Parts Mart (Fly Market) will not be in its usual building next to the playground/gate to the camping area. It will now be in a tent next to the Ultralight area (ie, closer to the main entrance). Boyd Super-6 Venice, FL > > > Dick, > > I'm raising my hand. Guess which one? ;) Of course, I haven't seen the > arrival procedures on the SNF website yet, so if it doesn't totally freak me > out, I'll still go! > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:04:58 AM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Bendix/King Color MAP MFD --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" Nice unit for the price. It can come with "internal GPS" (add antenna) or can be fed by external GPS you may have in panel. The CDI out can be used for the Navaid autopilot. Make sure you get one with the "new" display (there was an update a while back) as some you find may be older "reconditioned" units. (I think that is what we have). There will be some glare problems in certain conditions but that is the case with just about anything in the RV tip-up. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Karie Daniel > Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 1:53 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Bendix/King Color MAP MFD > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" > > I working on pricing out my panel and I looked at Bendix/King > KMD-150. I'm seeing this for under 3K. Seem like a great deal > compared to a Garmin 430. Does anyone fly with the KMD-150? I > know you get what you pay for but the Garmin is such a pricy component. > > Also, how do these moving maps handle doing aerobatics? Is it > hard on them? Do you just turn them off? Here is a link to the > King I'm talking about. > > Let me know what you think. > http://www.pacific-coast-avionics.com/detail.asp?id4627 > > > Karie Daniel > Sammamish, WA > RV-7A QB > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:12:12 AM PST US From: "John Huft" Subject: RE: RV-List: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun --> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" I will be there with my newly painted 8. I lost the post...was it lunchtime thursday at Van's tent? John Huft Pagosa Springs, CO www.lazy8.net/rv8.html -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RW Subject: RV-List: Raise your hand! --> RV-List message posted by: "RW" All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand. All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand. I have my other hand up. Dick White RV-8 N94DW Old Crow Newport, OR Do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:16:02 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RE: RV-List: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" OK, now what's the deal at Van's on Thursday? Put faces with names?? BTW, got my other Southwest Airline hand up. Flown there, camped there, would do it multiple times again. Dana Overall Richmond, KY http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive >From: "John Huft" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV-List: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun >Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 06:19:10 -0700 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" > >I will be there with my newly painted 8. > >I lost the post...was it lunchtime thursday at Van's tent? > >John Huft >Pagosa Springs, CO >www.lazy8.net/rv8.html > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RW >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Raise your hand! > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" > >All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand. > >All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand. > >I have my other hand up. > >Dick White >RV-8 N94DW >Old Crow >Newport, OR > > >Do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:20:14 AM PST US From: Ken Balch Subject: Re: RV-List: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch I'll be there with my unpainted -8. It's going into the paintshop after SnF, so it'll be painted in time for OSH. 11:30 @ Van's tent on Thursday. Primarily for -8 builders/pilots, but everyone is welcome, of course. Ken Balch RV-8 N118KB John Huft wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" > >I will be there with my newly painted 8. > >I lost the post...was it lunchtime thursday at Van's tent? > >John Huft >Pagosa Springs, CO >www.lazy8.net/rv8.html > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RW >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Raise your hand! > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" > >All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand. > >All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand. > >I have my other hand up. > >Dick White >RV-8 N94DW >Old Crow >Newport, OR > > >Do not archive > > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:20:38 AM PST US From: Ken Balch Subject: Re: RV-List: Raise your hand! --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch I'll be there in my RV. Ken Balch RV-8 N118KB RW wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" > >All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand. > >All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand. > >I have my other hand up. > >Dick White >RV-8 N94DW >Old Crow >Newport, OR > > >Do not archive > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:34:27 AM PST US From: "Nightingale Michael" "'rv-list@matronics.com'" Subject: RV-List: Softcomm ATC-2P intercom --> RV-List message posted by: "Nightingale Michael" Question: Does anyone have experience with Softcomm intercoms especially with the ATC-2P panel mounted 2 place intercom? http://www.softcommheadsets.com/aviation-products/index.htm Thanks 90259 Fuselage Michael V. Nightingale DEERE & Co. Computer Center 400 19th ST. Moline, IL. 61265 pager 563-327-7891 nightingalemichael@johndeere.com ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:11:45 AM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming fuel pump capacity? --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss Jeff, You need to replace the low pressure mechanical fuel pump (LW15472) with the higher pressure unit for fuel injected units (LW15473). You will also need a different electric fuel pump. The Facet unit used on the carburetor models will not generate and regulate the higher (24 -26 PSI needed). Vans electric pump kit should work. Charlie Kuss >--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > >Help, I have an 0-360 that Im trying to convert to fuel injection. I have a bendix fuel injector and am wondering if I need to upgrade my engine fuel pump to one of higher capacity. How about the electric pump requirements? Im thinking about buying Vans kit but Im not sure if I need all of it. Has anyone else done this? > >Jeff Dowling ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:18:22 AM PST US From: Jim Truitt Subject: RV-List: Bendix/King KMD-150 --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Truitt Karie, This may not help much, but ... I have the KMD-150, but haven't flown with it yet. Suggest you see a demo at Sun & Fun or Oshkosh. I did and was impressed enough to buy. One thing I like (or will like, I think) is that the program card that you update contains not just the database, but the entire operating program. The advantage is that you will get any new program features or functions that come along when you update. I was looking at the Skyforce GPS, which is similar to the KMD, but portable. I fould that the Skyforce would require several hundred dollars of interface hardware to work with the Navaid wing leveler. The KMD did not and would wire directly to the Navaid. Best price I found (Oshkosh 2002) was $2750 at American Avionics. ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:20:59 AM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: Raise your hand! --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Dave & I plan to fly our 8A this year and hopefully camp. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "RW" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Raise your hand! >Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 18:19:32 -0800 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" > >All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand. > >All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand. > >I have my other hand up. > >Dick White >RV-8 N94DW >Old Crow >Newport, OR > > >Do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:42:51 AM PST US From: "Tracy Crook" Subject: Re: RV-List: Raise your hand! --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" I be there with my -4. Parked on the Auto Powered row 19 instead of the usual RV parking lot. Next year with the 3 rotor powered RV-8 (if I don't fall off any more ladders) : ) Tracy Crook 13B rotary powered RV-4 > > > >All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand. > > > >All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand. > > > >I have my other hand up. > > > >Dick White > >RV-8 N94DW > >Old Crow > >Newport, OR > > > > > >Do not archive > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:51:02 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Bendix/King KMD-150 From: --> RV-List message posted by: > --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Truitt > > I fould that the Skyforce would require several hundred > dollars of interface hardware to work with the Navaid wing leveler. Not sure what interface option would require several hundred dollars, but there is a reasonable $150 solution available directly from Navaid (Smart Coupler II). Rob Acker (RV-6, Skyforce w/Navaid) do not archive ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:10:26 AM PST US From: "Ken Brooks" Subject: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges? It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo? Thanks in advance! Ken Brooks Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks, Randy! Do not archive ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:27:57 AM PST US From: dmedema@att.net Subject: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass. My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy? The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape? What kind of release agent are people using to prevent any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the canopy? Thanks, Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport. ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 08:31:46 AM PST US From: Rob Prior Subject: Re: RV-List: Tach VS Hobbs; was Wiring Hobbs and 12Volt --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior Wayne R. Couture wrote: >>The tachometer measures revolutions, not time. >> > This brings up a good point. When a manufacturer specifies TBO, is > it Hobb's time or tach time? When a flight school has to do a 50 or 100 > hour inspection do they use the tach or hobb's? I have known flight schools with aircraft whose Hobb's power was wired to the Master. It was a little known trick that you might save 0.1 or so on your bill at the end of the day by turning off the master once Ground had cleared you to taxi in... 50 and 100 hour inspections, as far as I know, are tied to TTAF, which is counted from Air Time (wheels up to wheels down) not Flight Time (startup to shutdown, or tach/hobbs/whatever). A bean-counter would want to use the Hobbs, because it would mean you'd actually get 50 hours between inspections. -RB4 ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 08:58:45 AM PST US From: Rob Miller Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller Doug Fiberglass will not stick to electrical tape. Brown packaging tape also works well and will not stick to the resin (Use this around the front of the slider section). Be careful to squeegie out any excess resin before adding the cloth, otherwise you may have a beautiful one-piece canopy/fuse ;). Use some automotive wax on metal parts that MAY come into contact with resin, just to be on the safe side. Also, spray the entire plexi with Pledge (with the exception of the areas you want to bond) before doing the fiberglass work as insurance against stray resin. Rob Miller -8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 47 hrs --- dmedema@att.net wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net > > Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around > the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was > planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could > match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding > part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was > hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass. > > My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting > inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy? > The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of > electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I > would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape > on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape? > What kind of release agent are people using to prevent > any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the > canopy? > > Thanks, > Doug Medema > RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport. > > > > > > http://taxes.yahoo.com/ ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 09:15:32 AM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: satellite radio on an RV? --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Jeff, I have an XM-ready Pioneer CD receiver in my RV-6 and I have provsioned for an antenna on top of the vertical stab, made the fiberglass tip removable, etc. Problem is I haven't found an XM antenna that will fit there yet. I am sure one will be coming. Sony has one about the size of a large golf ball but still a little too big. Satellite radio will work fine, there is actually an aviation XM receiver out there for big bucks. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shemp" Subject: RV-List: satellite radio on an RV? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > > Has anyone tried using one of the satellite radio services (xm or stratius?) on thier plane? I cant see why it wouldnt work. > > Jeff Dowling > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 09:19:19 AM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Doug, I did exactly that only I used the brown packing tape with the gloss finish. I used the 2" wide stuff and made sure I went back far enough. No release agent required. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing > --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net > > Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around > the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was > planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could > match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding > part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was > hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass. > > My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting > inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy? > The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of > electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I > would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape > on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape? > What kind of release agent are people using to prevent > any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the > canopy? > > Thanks, > Doug Medema > RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport. > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 09:30:59 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Using release agents scare me, if some is left on a surface by freak accident and that will receive paint, well thats one problem I dont want to deal with. I just used brown box tape as mentioned and mummified everything, it works great. At 08:56 AM 2/28/03 -0800, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller > >Doug > >Fiberglass will not stick to electrical tape. Brown packaging tape also >works well and will not stick to the resin (Use this around the front of >the slider section). Be careful to squeegie out any excess resin before >adding the cloth, otherwise you may have a beautiful one-piece canopy/fuse >;). Use some automotive wax on metal parts that MAY come into contact >with resin, just to be on the safe side. Also, spray the entire plexi >with Pledge (with the exception of the areas you want to bond) before >doing the fiberglass work as insurance against stray resin. > >Rob Miller >-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 47 hrs > > >--- dmedema@att.net wrote: >> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net >> >> Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around >> the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was >> planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could >> match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding >> part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was >> hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass. >> >> My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting >> inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy? >> The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of >> electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I >> would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape >> on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape? >> What kind of release agent are people using to prevent >> any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the >> canopy? >> >> Thanks, >> Doug Medema >> RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport. >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >http://taxes.yahoo.com/ > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 09:50:40 AM PST US From: "Chuck Weyant" Subject: RV-List: Need Collins GLS350 Glideslope Indicator wiring diagram --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" Does anyone have a Collins GLS350 Glideslope/Localizer Indicator wiring Install diagram or install instructions I could get a copy of? Chuck Weyant RV9A Slowbuild (Firewall Forward & Electrics) Yaay! ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 09:50:41 AM PST US From: "Chuck Weyant" Subject: RV-List: Intercoms vs. Audio Panel Intercoms --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" Does anyone see any reason I wouldn't want to use the intercom feature of my King KMA (I can't remember the number, but I just bought it reconditioned from Vista Aviation, Van Nuys, CA)? I know some of the guys have a seperate intercom even though they might have an audio panel with the intercom feature. Why? Chuck Weyant RV9A ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 09:55:49 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I'm considering modifying the RV-7 tip-up canopy by riveting on a thin strip of skin along the bottom side edges of the canopy. That strip of skin would overlap the fuselage side skin by about 1/2" or 3/4" or so. I would fill over the joint along the canopy skin so you wouldn't even know it's a separate piece. I would put UHMW tape on the inside of the overlapping skin so it doesn't chafe the fuselage sides. This seems like it would seal better, look better when closed, and alleviate some of the forward fitting headaches I'm having where the fwd canopy frame and canopy meets the longerons. Has anybody done this type of overlap modification? If so, got any pictures? Happy with it? Would you recommend it? Thanks in advance, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (can of pee) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 10:02:56 AM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" >Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" > >What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges? >It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of >hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron >movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used >the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo? >Thanks in advance! > >Ken Brooks >Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks, >Randy! >Do not archive I found no specific safety device was required on my airplane. The pins are so tight they have not budged a millimeter in over three years. I drilled a small hole in the inboard aileron hinge brackets to insert them (via spinning drill motor). Once they were in (after much cussing and gnashing of teeth), I just slightly bent the exposed end so they would not drift out through that same hole and foul the aileron. The pins will not move inboard without hitting the belly of the fuselage. No cotter pins required. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 300+ hours. ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 10:09:32 AM PST US From: mstewart@qa.butler.com Subject: RE: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com I used car wax, nothing else. And don't squeegee excess out. Mike Stewart --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net What kind of release agent are people using to prevent any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the canopy? ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 10:10:44 AM PST US From: "Jim Norman" Subject: RE: RV-List: Raise your hand! --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" I will be there with Razzmatazz... jim tampa ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 10:26:45 AM PST US From: "Kenneth Beene" Subject: RE: RV-List: Need Collins GLS350 Glideslope Indicator wiring diagram --> RV-List message posted by: "Kenneth Beene" Chuck, I have diagrams for GLS350, VIR351 and IND351A. I will get them from the hangar, scan and email them to you. Ken http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/ ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 10:38:40 AM PST US From: Rob Prior Subject: Re: RV-List: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior This sounds a lot like a mod that people have done to their RV-6 slider canopy... I know i've seen it on a few. The mod would probably work just fine on a tip-up canopy, but you'd have to be careful not to get a slight twist in the canopy when dropping it into place... If it was off-center at all, you'd probably bend that overlapping piece quite easily. Search for photos of RV-6 (and maybe -9) sliders for hints. The method does seal the canopy quite well. Dan Checkoway wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > > I'm considering modifying the RV-7 tip-up canopy by riveting on a thin strip > of skin along the bottom side edges of the canopy. That strip of skin would > overlap the fuselage side skin by about 1/2" or 3/4" or so. I would fill > over the joint along the canopy skin so you wouldn't even know it's a > separate piece. I would put UHMW tape on the inside of the overlapping skin > so it doesn't chafe the fuselage sides. > > This seems like it would seal better, look better when closed, and alleviate > some of the forward fitting headaches I'm having where the fwd canopy frame > and canopy meets the longerons. ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 10:44:24 AM PST US From: mstewart@qa.butler.com Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com Have the 90 in the middle of the hinge. You will have to cut off an ear or 2 of the hinge. But the pins will meet in the middle, and be pushed in from the middle out. No safety wire required. Only down side I have found is to be careful when washing the plane that when you stick your hand under there to giver her a wipe, remember those pins are hanging down slightly. Mike Stewart -----Original Message----- From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy@hotmail.com] Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" >Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" > >What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges? ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 10:56:53 AM PST US From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" Subject: RV-List: RE: Wing wiring --> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" Darwin, Running the NAV power wires and the strobes cable together is OK. And running the NAV power leads with a NAV/COM antenna lead is OK. But don't run any NAV/COM antenna leads with strobe cables. That's just asking for an interference problem. That may require you to run a second conduit..... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV Reserved Here's the layout. RV7QB. Existing holes with snap in bushings were drilled out light wire and the strobe wires (Whelens)in the conduit. I also want to mount a comm antenna in one wing tip and a nav in the other. I'd like to know if I can run the coax for the nav and comm antennas in the conduit And, if so, how far apart should they be run? Thanks in advance. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 10:58:46 AM PST US From: "Jim Norman" Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" ditto jim -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" >Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" > >What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges? >It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of >hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron >movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used >the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo? >Thanks in advance! > >Ken Brooks >Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks, >Randy! >Do not archive I found no specific safety device was required on my airplane. The pins are so tight they have not budged a millimeter in over three years. I drilled a small hole in the inboard aileron hinge brackets to insert them (via spinning drill motor). Once they were in (after much cussing and gnashing of teeth), I just slightly bent the exposed end so they would not drift out through that same hole and foul the aileron. The pins will not move inboard without hitting the belly of the fuselage. No cotter pins required. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 300+ hours. ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 11:05:52 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > Have the 90 in the middle of the hinge. You will have to cut off an ear or 2 > of the hinge. But the pins will meet in the middle, and be pushed in from > the middle out. No safety wire required. Only down side I have found is to > be careful when washing the plane that when you stick your hand under there > to giver her a wipe, remember those pins are hanging down slightly. You can also install those pins so that the bent tabs go on the inside and get safetied to the flap brace. Tougher to get at that way, but they're totally hidden (and secured), and how often do you need to remove your flaps? 8-) )_( Dan do not archive ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 11:34:04 AM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com > > Have the 90 in the middle of the hinge. You will have to cut off an ear or 2 > of the hinge. But the pins will meet in the middle, and be pushed in from > the middle out. No safety wire required. Only down side I have found is to > be careful when washing the plane that when you stick your hand under there > to giver her a wipe, remember those pins are hanging down slightly. > > Mike Stewart A method that is similar to the above and has been used many times is to remove a couple eyes in the middle of flap hinge, cut the hinge pin into two pieces, and insert them from the center of the hinge while the flap is hanging at a 90 degree position. You can form a ninety in the ends of the pins at the center of the flap, and the ends can be wired to the flap brace. This method eliminates the snag that Mike mentioned and is easy to access once the flap actuation rods are disconnected. Sam Buchanan (RV-6) ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 11:56:42 AM PST US From: "van Bladeren, Ron" Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" Initially, I drilled the small hole in the aileron bracket and installed the hinge pins from outboard to inboard. I didn't like that method because it seemed to me the only logical place to safety the pin was on the inboard end of the flap (I don't like relying on pin friction to retain the pin. They all loosen up eventually). Problem is, once you bend the pin over on the inboard end, you can no longer extract it out the aileron end. So I decided to try installing from under the fuselage, inboard to outboard. That worked pretty good! I left the pin about 1/2" longer then the hinge, bent it over 90 degrees and used one loop section of an old hinge to secured it to the lower flap skin next to the rod end bracket. An added benefit is that I can remove the flap without having to mess with the aileron. A second pair of hands to move the flap up and down while you push in the pin helps until the hinge wears in a little. Ron. -----Original Message----- From: Ken Brooks [mailto:kenbrooks@charter.net] Subject: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges? It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo? Thanks in advance! Ken Brooks Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks, Randy! Do not archive ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 11:57:43 AM PST US From: "Patrick Kelley" Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" I even went so far as to put a nutplate behind the flap brace and loops in the end of my hinge wires so they can be secured with a screw to the brace. However, I found it extremely difficult to get the hinges in and out during fitting so I think I did a little extra work for no good purpose. If I were to do it again, I would split the hinges but measure them so they butted against each other, leaving them straight so they can be 'spun-in' with a drill. Then I'd install a sleeve (small aluminum tube available at hobby shop) over the ends to complete the butt joint. Heat shrink tubing over the sleeve would keep it from moving until you wanted it to - in fact it would probably be sufficient without the sleeve. Light, easy, and why the heck didn't I think of it until I finished the wings? Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - baggage ribs being fitted to fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com > > Have the 90 in the middle of the hinge. You will have to cut off an ear or 2 > of the hinge. But the pins will meet in the middle, and be pushed in from > the middle out. No safety wire required. Only down side I have found is to > be careful when washing the plane that when you stick your hand under there > to giver her a wipe, remember those pins are hanging down slightly. > > Mike Stewart A method that is similar to the above and has been used many times is to remove a couple eyes in the middle of flap hinge, cut the hinge pin into two pieces, and insert them from the center of the hinge while the flap is hanging at a 90 degree position. You can form a ninety in the ends of the pins at the center of the flap, and the ends can be wired to the flap brace. This method eliminates the snag that Mike mentioned and is easy to access once the flap actuation rods are disconnected. Sam Buchanan (RV-6) ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 12:24:58 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: RE: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes I am Kindergartener when it comes to fiberglass but I had some success with toilet bowl wax. I am not ready to use it on the airplane till I experiment more. Maybe someone already has?? It is very cheap. Perhaps I should keep my mouth shut and re-package it as "RV Fairing Fiberglass No Stick Wax". Only 6.95 for four ounces. Plus crating charge and shipping. :-) K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 12:36:08 PM PST US From: "Perry Rhoads" Subject: RV-List: Raise Your Hand --> RV-List message posted by: "Perry Rhoads" From Litchfield, IL we'll have a motorhome,Luscombe, Pitts S1S, and my RV-3. Perry Rhoads RV-3 N96GW ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 12:59:45 PM PST US From: "Elsa & Henry" Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" I just drilled a hole for a .075 dia cotter-pin in the most outboard hinge eye, in the center of it. I had drilled a hole in the inboard aileron hinge bracket, lined-up with the flap hinge so the hinge pin can be inserted through the bracket (aileron not installed, of course) The pin is cut to length so the inboard end touches the fuselage and the outboard end is just inside the cotter-pin hole. Its easy to insert the cotter pin from below and bend it just like the aileron hinges in the Cessnas Cheers!!--Henry Hore-- -6A, C-GELS, Cornwall, Ont. ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 01:07:11 PM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point Why not just make a new set of side skins, about 1/2 or 3/4 wider? That's what I did, out of neccessity, since I raised the height of the roll over frame and canopy by an inch for more headroom. It seemed to work out OK, but it isn't flying yet. Jeff Point RV-6 finish kit Milwaukee WI > > > ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 01:53:23 PM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" I did exactly what Brian did. Looks like we're either both really smart or both really stupid... ;-) Randy Lervold RV-8, 295 hrs. www.rv-8.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Denk" Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" > > > >Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0600 > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" > > > >What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges? > >It appears to me that putting a 90-degree bend in the extra length of > >hinge pin with a screw loop in it would interfere with the aileron > >movement. Has anyone drilled a cotter pin hole in the hinge and used > >the cotter pin as a hinge pin "stop?" Can anyone send me a photo? > >Thanks in advance! > > > >Ken Brooks > >Roscoe, IL - Randy L.'s flap fairing photos were a big help. Thanks, > >Randy! > >Do not archive > > I found no specific safety device was required on my airplane. The pins are > so tight they have not budged a millimeter in over three years. I drilled a > small hole in the inboard aileron hinge brackets to insert them (via > spinning drill motor). Once they were in (after much cussing and gnashing > of teeth), I just slightly bent the exposed end so they would not drift out > through that same hole and foul the aileron. The pins will not move inboard > without hitting the belly of the fuselage. No cotter pins required. > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > 300+ hours. > > ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 02:05:17 PM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?-Pics --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" Here are two pictures that illustrate what Dan and Sam said. I did this and it works great. The elbows will go on the inside of the hinge at final assembly. Just grind off two eyelets on one side and one on the other. http://rvflying.tripod.com/p1070003.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/p1070006.jpg Dana Overall Richmond, KY http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 02:51:50 PM PST US From: Jim Streit Subject: Re: RV-List: N2GX First Flight --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Streit CONGRATULATIONS Gabe and Marisol. Hope you have many hours of enjoyment with you airplane Jim Streit Coral Springs, fl rv-9a 90073 fuse Gabe and Marisol Ferrer wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe and Marisol Ferrer" > >First flight of RV6 N2GX today. >Uneventful, except that I forgot to lock my tipup canopy. >Not terribly smart. I now have a written checklist. >The canopy stayed open about 4 to 5 inches while I flew around the pattern >to land. >Locked canopy and took off again. > >My thanks to all in the RV List. I've learned a lot from you. > >Gabe A Ferrer >RV6 N2GX. 2 hours. South Florida. >ferrergm@bellsouth.net >Cell: 561 758 8894 >Night or FAX: 561 622 0960 > > > > ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 03:20:17 PM PST US From: "Bob Hartley" Subject: RV-List: Tip up canopy frame riveting --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" Ref: Tip up canopy frame RV9A (same as 7A) I've finished all the fitting and drilling of the canopy frame and the next step is to start fitting and cutting the plexi glass. However, there is no mention of riveting the actual canopy frame skin to the canopy frame. How can I fit the plexi with clecoes sticking out of the canopy frame? Do I go ahead and rivet it together now? Bob Hartley RV9A CA ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 05:27:25 PM PST US From: "thomas a. sargent" Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" Ken Brooks wrote: >What is the method of choice out there for safetying the flap hinges? > > > Ken: Gus at Vans advised me to use the method of inserting the hinge pins thru a carefully aligned hole drilled in the inboard aileron bracket. He said to secure it with a bit of stainless safety wire run thru a small hole drilled thru the last hinge eye, which I will do, but that hinge is pretty soft aluminum and I don't trust it. So what I'm going to do is plug up the hole in the bracket thru which the pin is inserted with a panhead #4 screw with a nylock nut on the other side. That will keep the hinge from ever backing out. Gus said that on his plane he had done the usual design of removing a couple hinge eyes in the middle of the flap and inserting 2 hinge pins from the middle out. But he now thinks it's too hard to get the hinge pin in and out. He favors the hole in the aileron bracket method. >-- > Tom Sargent RV-6A > > ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 06:06:23 PM PST US From: "Chopper" Subject: Re: RV-List: Raise your hand! --> RV-List message posted by: "Chopper" Always lurking here -But,I do intend to be at S-N-F in my -4------------ Mike Kellems Do Not Archive --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] ________________________________ Message 49 ____________________________________ Time: 06:42:42 PM PST US From: Jim Oke Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke Doug; I used modelling clay to fill the canopy bow/frame gap and smooth out the bumps and get the contour I wanted. Then I used a couple of layers of clear packing tape (from Office Depot or similar) to cover this over and work back over the plexi a little way. The epoxy will not stick to this tape and it was no big problem getting the canopy "unstuck" afterwards. I eased a thin steel ruler under the built-up fiberglass stip and slide it back and for a few times and the canopy came open easily enough. (Watch where you put your tape so yu don't seal it close semi-permenantly !) Jim Oke Winnipeg, MB RV-6A (at the airport, finishing details and waiting for warmer vweather...) ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing > --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net > > Ok, I'm ready to make a fiberglass fairing for around > the top of my windscreen on my sliding canopy. I was > planning to make it with the canopy closed so I could > match the contour between the windscreen and the sliding > part. In my case, that isn't a perfect fit, and I was > hoping to smooth things out with the fiberglass. > > My question is: How do you stop the resin from getting > inbetween the fixed windscreen and the sliding canopy? > The only thing I can think of is to place a piece of > electrical tape such that it spans the gap. I think I > would only have to have about 1/8" overlap of the tape > on the windscreen. Does epoxy stick to electrical tape? > What kind of release agent are people using to prevent > any sticking of the fairing to the sliding part of the > canopy? > > Thanks, > Doug Medema > RV-6A N276DM (reserved) Almost ready to bring to the airport. > > ________________________________ Message 50 ____________________________________ Time: 07:20:28 PM PST US From: RWPRV6A@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing --> RV-List message posted by: RWPRV6A@aol.com Doug, I did mine much differently than most. I made my fiberglass fairing removable initially, sanded it, filed it, etc., etc., until I had exactly what I wanted. With the canopy closed and latched, I used regular duct tape (the silver stuff) two or three rows wide. Inevitably, there were some wrinkles around the turns/bends but when the fairing is permanently attached, they are not an issue. After laying the duct tape on, I carefully marked off where I wanted the fiberglass, i.e., approximately two inches wide along the front, wider on the sides, and of course about two inches over the roll bar area with 3/4 inch overlap over the canopy. Once marked, I used some really thick (about 1/16 inch) electrical tape (purchased at the local Lowes store) and followed my marking to outline the fairing area. You could even layer two strips of the thick electrical tape if you wanted. Then I cut all of the pieces of fiberglass strips and had them all ready at glass time. Make sure you use "Epoxy" type resin, not polyester. I believe I had 4 layers in most areas, and 5 or 6 layers where needed (very front of windscreen and on sides). The electrical tape gives you a nice edge to butt up against. After the fiberglass was completely cured (about 36 hours) I did some sanding while still on the airplane, then removed the electrical tape, found a little corner to get under, and popped the whole thing off. I sanded, filed, sanded, filed, yada yada yada, until I was happy with the results. When ready to bond the windscreen on permanently, lightly scuff the plexiglas in the area where the fairing goes, the top skin, and the inside of the fairing. Set the fairing back on and drill about four 1/8 inch holes through the fairing into the front aluminum, one or two into the longeron, and about 5-6 over the roll bar area, right through the windscreen and into the roll bar. Counter sink the holes for pop rivets. Then I placed regular electrical tape both on the inside perimeter and outside perimeter approximately 3/16" away from the fairing except where the sliding canopy goes. In fact, slide the canopy out of your way. At this point, you are ready to permanently mount your masterpiece. There are a couple of bonding agents that are completely safe for plexi, 1, good ol pro-seal (yuck!) and 2, the stuff used on Pitts canopies made by 3M called Scotch-Weld, 2216 B/A (gray) Epoxy Adhesive. The latter is what I used. Mix up very generous amount, spread it heavily on the inside of the fairing except where the fairing overlaps the sliding canopy section. Tape off this section with one width of electrical tape (3/4") to prevent epoxy from the overlap. Place the fairing on the aircraft being careful not to let it touch where it shouldn't. Adjust, put the pop rivets in, and smooth out the "squeezed out" epoxy into the 3/16" space provided by the electrical tape. Clean/remove any epoxy that squeezed out under the fairing by the roll bar, remove the piece of electrical tape from the inside and allow the epoxy to cure. As this epoxy begins to cure (about 2-3 hours) you can smooth it out with a spit cover fingertip. For some reason, it won't stick to spit. After about 4-5 hours, you can remove the electrical tape. The whole thing will cure in about 12-24 hours. The reason for the 3/16" epoxy bead is that when you paint your aircraft, you can mask off about 1/32"-1/16" of the epoxy and paint right on over the fairing onto the epoxy, leaving short this little exposed epoxy, without the fear of paint getting on the Plexiglas and causing crazing. I know this sounds like a lot more work, and in reality it is, but I am very pleased with my results. Ultimately, what ever method you choose, you will be ecstatic just to get passed that frigid stage. I know I was. PS Make sure you sufficiently cover the exposed aluminum on the front and sides of the fuselage to keep resin off. Good Luck, Ralph RV-6A, engine hangin!!!!