Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:31 AM - Wiring Diagram (Jim Nolan)
2. 06:24 AM - Raise Your Hand--Su 'N Fun (Stuart B McCurdy)
3. 06:36 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (Kevin Mannon)
4. 06:48 AM - Re: Softcomm ATC-2P intercom (Ernest Kells)
5. 06:59 AM - Re: Bendix FI servos (Dane Sheahen)
6. 07:13 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Elsa & Henry)
7. 07:44 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (thomas a. sargent)
8. 07:46 AM - Rear wing spar (jeckenroth@nbn.net)
9. 09:41 AM - Odyssey Battery (best source these days) (Dan Checkoway)
10. 09:46 AM - Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! (kempthornes)
11. 10:15 AM - RV7A elevator trailing edge (Steve Kiekover)
12. 01:06 PM - Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) (Jerry Springer)
13. 01:11 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Jerry Springer)
14. 01:49 PM - Re: Rear wing spar (Alex Peterson)
15. 02:17 PM - Re: Raise Your Hand--Su 'N Fun (WALTER KERR)
16. 02:49 PM - Re: Raise Your Hand--Su 'N Fun (Jerry Springer)
17. 02:51 PM - Re: RV7A elevator trailing edge (Phil Birkelbach)
18. 03:13 PM - Re: Raise Your Hand--Su 'N Fun (Stein Bruch)
19. 03:53 PM - Vancouver and Oregon RVers (Al Grajek)
20. 03:54 PM - Vancouver and Oregon RVers (Al Grajek)
21. 04:09 PM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Tom Gummo)
22. 05:23 PM - Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid (John)
23. 09:57 PM - RV7/9 Rudder TE (Matthew Orr)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jimnolan@insightbb.com>
Listers,
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a KX155 and a KI209A combination. Also
I'm using the Infinity grip and want to use the frequency change function on
the KX155. You could save me a lot of headaches if you've got it.
Also I've got a KN53-00 I'll be selling when I install the 155. I'ts two years
old since factory recondition and it still looks new and you can come go flying
with me now to see that it functions perfectly.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Message 2
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| Subject: | Raise Your Hand--Su 'N Fun |
--> RV-List message posted by: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy@att.net>
I'll be there again in the RV-8. At 1130-1200 each day I will again be
leading other FFI cardholders in formation flybys in the flyby pattern.
About a dozen FFI formation flyers have responded so far.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Stu McCurdy
RV-8, 78TX, 245 hrs
RV-3, 74TX, 805 hrs
----------------------------
Time: 06:20:14 AM PST US
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Raise your hand! -- sun n fun
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
I'll be there with my unpainted -8. It's going into the paintshop after
SnF, so it'll be painted in time for OSH.
11:30 @ Van's tent on Thursday. Primarily for -8 builders/pilots, but
everyone is welcome, of course.
Ken Balch
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Raise your hand! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Mannon" <kevin@mannon.org>
Hi folks,
I'm raising my other hand.
I've been lurking here, but just stated posting in the Yahoo 9A group (since
I just got my 9A emp kit.) I've got 12 hours into it and I'm just as happy
as pig I you know what! Looking forward to meeting a bunch of folks and
learning a bunch of stuff.
Regards,
Kevin Mannon
Londonderry, NH
RV-9A, Empennage
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Softcomm ATC-2P intercom |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
This is an interesting queston. I would also be very interested in a
comparison between the Flightcom 403x and the Softcomm 2P (and 2PS). There
is nothing in the archives.
The Softcomm seems to have great features for a comparable or less price.
The factory and other flying RVs seem to have predominantly the Flightcom -
especially with the round faceplate. Is there a reason for this anomally ?
?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Nightingale Michael"
<NightingaleMichaelV@JohnDeere.com>
> Question: Does anyone have experience with Softcomm intercoms especially
with the
> ATC-2P panel mounted 2 place intercom?
> http://www.softcommheadsets.com/aviation-products/index.htm
Message 5
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| Subject: | Bendix FI servos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
* > RV-List message posted by: "Heinrich Gerhardt" <hgerhardt@earthlink.net>
Who's a good supplier of parts and/or overhauls for Bendix fuel injection
servos and fuel distributors? I've rebuilt diesel fuel injection pumps
myself, and these things can't be any more complicated. So far I haven't
been able to find parts for rebuild.
Heinrich Gerhardt
If you want the best and you want the guy the FAA goes to with
investigations on fuel systems and can not figure out call Bob. The last
time I was at his house two suburbans with government plates park out front
and were bring this guy a lot of parts. All he would say that he does a lot
of investigation work for the NTSB . He did my fuel lines and rebuilt my
Bendix servo. He can bench test the servo in his shop.
Bob Bejna(630) 543-9213
971 N Babbit Ave
Addison, IL. 60101-1221
(630) 543-9213
Good luck
Dane Sheahen
RV8a Still flying naked without pants (wheel)
Painting on March 10th
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Tom,
Re your post on the subject 2/28, in which you are going to plug the hole in
the hinge bracket with a #4 screw, etc. No point in doing that: If the
hinge-pin eases outboard near the stationary hinge bracket, it will
interfere with the aileron hinge movement, not a happy occurrence! In fact
I'm surprised by some posts in which the builders said they did nothing to
anchor the flap hinge pins because they were tough to feed them in. Sooner
or later they might loosen-up and the pilot may find his aileron movement
impaired!!
The info given to you by Gus is exactly what I did on mine. See my post of
2/28 detailing what I did. If you are worried that the outboard hinge-eye
may break-off (with the cotter-pin) and you want to retain capability to
remove the pin at some time later, you could install a brass ferrule with a
grub-screw on the inboard end of the pin, akin to an old radio knob but with
the hole diameter to fit the pin.
---------Cheers!!---Henry Hore
.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.com>
Henry:
The brass ferrule is a good idea.
I did think about the pin fouling the aileron, though. To further
complicate matters, somehow my aileron bracket slightly overlapped and
interfered with the end of the flap hinge by about 1/8". I could have
just cut half of the last hinge eye off, but the possibility of
interference, should the pin back out, bother me. So, after discussing
it with Vans, I cut a notch about 1/4" deep in the edge of the inboard
aileron bracket - the A-607 that is mounted to the aileron. I had to
do it on both ailerons. It is now impossible for the flap hinge pin to
foul the A-607. I think the amount of weakening to the aileron is
negligble. I hope the DAR agrees with me when that day comes!
Elsa & Henry wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
>Tom,
>Re your post on the subject 2/28, in which you are going to plug the hole in
>the hinge bracket with a #4 screw, etc. No point in doing that: If the
>hinge-pin eases outboard near the stationary hinge bracket, it will
>interfere with the aileron hinge movement, not a happy occurrence! In fact
>I'm surprised by some posts in which the builders said they did nothing to
>anchor the flap hinge pins because they were tough to feed them in. Sooner
>or later they might loosen-up and the pilot may find his aileron movement
>impaired!!
>
>The info given to you by Gus is exactly what I did on mine. See my post of
>2/28 detailing what I did. If you are worried that the outboard hinge-eye
>may break-off (with the cotter-pin) and you want to retain capability to
>remove the pin at some time later, you could install a brass ferrule with a
>grub-screw on the inboard end of the pin, akin to an old radio knob but with
>the hole diameter to fit the pin.
>
>---------Cheers!!---Henry Hore
>
>
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "jeckenroth@nbn.net" <jeckenroth@nbn.net>
I am looking for advise on the following. The Z shaped rear spar on
my RV9 is bowed up 3/16" vertical in the center of the spar. The
right wing is bowed down 1/32". Van's engineer says no problem, but
I would like the opinion of the knowledgeable builders on the list.
Is this something that will not affect the appearance and flying
qualities of the plane or should it be replaced. The spar is riveted
but the wing is not. The spar cannot be straightened since the bow
is through the web.
Paul Eckenroth RV90550
Palmyra, PA
Message 9
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<SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Odyssey Battery (best source these days) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I figured I'd pass this info on to the lists...I just ordered my Odyssey
PC680 battery online from Sunn Battery Co. Originally I was going to order
it from Batteries4Everything.com, which had it slightly cheaper, but here's
the deal:
I shopped around for cheaper alternatives to the PC680, such as the P174-ND
and P231-ND (both Panasonic) from Digi-Key. The problem I had with those
two models, while they are MUCH cheaper and possibly a few ounces lighter
than the Odyssey, is that they have higher internal resistance (12 and 11
milliohms respectively, compared to the Odyssey's 7 milliohms)...and they
also have a very slightly different form factor. I didn't want to screw
around with that. For $30 more I'll have the peace of mind that I'm using
what Van's uses (I know that's a somewhat passive approach, but oh well).
Buying from Sunn Battery there's no sales tax since they're in Florida (I'm
in CA), they don't charge any handling fees (that I could see), and shipping
is FIXED at $5.50 for Priority Mail. It worked out to $80.09 door-to-door.
Batteries4Everything, while having a $12 cheaper price, is in CA...so there
would be sales tax. Plus they tack on a handling fee. Then, having to ship
15 pounds via UPS (possibly hazmat?), would probably end up being more
expensive in the end.
Hope this helps if you're still looking to buy the PC680.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <sunnbattery@hotmail.com>
Subject: Thank you for your order - #4779
> Dear Dan Checkoway,
>
> Thank You for your order. We'll begin processing immediately. It
> should ship out within 2-3 business days at the latest. If you have
> any questions please email us at sunnbattery@hotmail.com We
> appreciate your business.
> Order no. 4779
>
> Item Description Qty Unit Price Total Price
> Odyssey PC680 1 $74.59 $74.59
> Battery
> Subtotal $74.59
> Shipping $5.50
> Tax $0.00
> Total $80.09
> Total amount reserved on your credit card: $80.09
>
> Your card will not be charged until the order has been shipped (if
> applicable). When the order ships, or if your order is canceled,
> we'll send you another email.
>
> If you have any questions about your
> order, please reply to this email.
>
>
> Shipping address:
> ...
>
> USPS Priority Mail
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Used Stuff! |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
What is a ten year old 1300 hour VFR RV3 worth today?
Any ruff ideas welcome.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV7A elevator trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Kiekover" <stneki@hotmail.com>
In my instructions it mentioned proseal for the elevator but no reference to
using it during assembly. Is proseal used on the stiffeners at the trailing
edge? To me it looks like it is not needed as the upper and lower stiffeners
are far enough apart. Thanks Steve
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
That is where I bought mine and received good service. The only
thing I thought was funny was that when I called them to order, the
lady told me it would cost me more over the phone than it would if I
ordered online. She said she was the one that took online orders also
but It was cheaper online so I hung up and ordered it online. As you
said Batteries4everything was a little cheaper but they had to back
order it at the time I was shopping. So far I am really happy with that
little Odyssey-PC680.
Jerry
do not archive.
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I figured I'd pass this info on to the lists...I just ordered my Odyssey
> PC680 battery online from Sunn Battery Co. Originally I was going to order
> it from Batteries4Everything.com, which had it slightly cheaper, but here's
> the deal:
>
> I shopped around for cheaper alternatives to the PC680, such as the P174-ND
> and P231-ND (both Panasonic) from Digi-Key. The problem I had with those
> two models, while they are MUCH cheaper and possibly a few ounces lighter
> than the Odyssey, is that they have higher internal resistance (12 and 11
> milliohms respectively, compared to the Odyssey's 7 milliohms)...and they
> also have a very slightly different form factor. I didn't want to screw
> around with that. For $30 more I'll have the peace of mind that I'm using
> what Van's uses (I know that's a somewhat passive approach, but oh well).
>
> Buying from Sunn Battery there's no sales tax since they're in Florida (I'm
> in CA), they don't charge any handling fees (that I could see), and shipping
> is FIXED at $5.50 for Priority Mail. It worked out to $80.09 door-to-door.
>
> Batteries4Everything, while having a $12 cheaper price, is in CA...so there
> would be sales tax. Plus they tack on a handling fee. Then, having to ship
> 15 pounds via UPS (possibly hazmat?), would probably end up being more
> expensive in the end.
>
> Hope this helps if you're still looking to buy the PC680.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <sunnbattery@hotmail.com>
> To: <dan@rvproject.com>
> Subject: Thank you for your order - #4779
>
>
>
>>Dear Dan Checkoway,
>>
>>Thank You for your order. We'll begin processing immediately. It
>>should ship out within 2-3 business days at the latest. If you have
>>any questions please email us at sunnbattery@hotmail.com We
>>appreciate your business.
>>Order no. 4779
>>
>>Item Description Qty Unit Price Total Price
>>Odyssey PC680 1 $74.59 $74.59
>>Battery
>> Subtotal $74.59
>> Shipping $5.50
>> Tax $0.00
>> Total $80.09
>>Total amount reserved on your credit card: $80.09
>>
>>Your card will not be charged until the order has been shipped (if
>>applicable). When the order ships, or if your order is canceled,
>>we'll send you another email.
>>
>>If you have any questions about your
>>order, please reply to this email.
>>
>>
>>Shipping address:
>>...
>>
>>USPS Priority Mail
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Ouch!!! no cutting brackets for me. So far the best way is the way
others have done and I did on mine and that is to cut a couple loops out
of the center of the hinge and cut the pin in half and run the pin in
from the center. It is easy to get to with the flap push rod unhooked.
Jerry
thomas a. sargent wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.com>
>
> Henry:
> The brass ferrule is a good idea.
>
> I did think about the pin fouling the aileron, though. To further
> complicate matters, somehow my aileron bracket slightly overlapped and
> interfered with the end of the flap hinge by about 1/8". I could have
> just cut half of the last hinge eye off, but the possibility of
> interference, should the pin back out, bother me. So, after discussing
> it with Vans, I cut a notch about 1/4" deep in the edge of the inboard
> aileron bracket - the A-607 that is mounted to the aileron. I had to
> do it on both ailerons. It is now impossible for the flap hinge pin to
> foul the A-607. I think the amount of weakening to the aileron is
> negligble. I hope the DAR agrees with me when that day comes!
>
> Elsa & Henry wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>>
>>Tom,
>>Re your post on the subject 2/28, in which you are going to plug the hole in
>>the hinge bracket with a #4 screw, etc. No point in doing that: If the
>>hinge-pin eases outboard near the stationary hinge bracket, it will
>>interfere with the aileron hinge movement, not a happy occurrence! In fact
>>I'm surprised by some posts in which the builders said they did nothing to
>>anchor the flap hinge pins because they were tough to feed them in. Sooner
>>or later they might loosen-up and the pilot may find his aileron movement
>>impaired!!
>>
>>The info given to you by Gus is exactly what I did on mine. See my post of
>>2/28 detailing what I did. If you are worried that the outboard hinge-eye
>>may break-off (with the cotter-pin) and you want to retain capability to
>>remove the pin at some time later, you could install a brass ferrule with a
>>grub-screw on the inboard end of the pin, akin to an old radio knob but with
>>the hole diameter to fit the pin.
>>
>>---------Cheers!!---Henry Hore
>>
>>
>
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
3/16" sounds a bit excessive - I'd replace it or find a way to
straighten it. It'll bug you forever if you don't, plus that is a fair
amount of washout that you'll have to deal with.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 264 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "jeckenroth@nbn.net"
> <jeckenroth@nbn.net>
>
> I am looking for advise on the following. The Z shaped rear
> spar on my RV9 is bowed up 3/16" vertical in the center of
> the spar. The right wing is bowed down 1/32". Van's
> engineer says no problem, but I would like the opinion of the
> knowledgeable builders on the list.
> Is this something that will not affect the appearance and
> flying qualities of the plane or should it be replaced. The
> spar is riveted but the wing is not. The spar cannot be
> straightened since the bow is through the web.
>
> Paul Eckenroth RV90550
> Palmyra, PA
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Raise Your Hand--Su 'N Fun |
--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
I'll be there, but do not know which hand to raise at this time. Will be
flying the 6A back from Memphis babysitting the day before it starts.
May flyin and camp in tent if wife doesn't wish to bring the RV camping
trailer.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, 9A rotary building, SE Fla
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Raise Your Hand--Su 'N Fun |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
WALTER KERR wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
>
> I'll be there, but do not know which hand to raise at this time. Will be
> flying the 6A back from Memphis babysitting the day before it starts.
>
> May flyin and camp in tent if wife doesn't wish to bring the RV camping
> trailer.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, 9A rotary building, SE Fla
>
Bernie, how is the "RV camping trailer" handle behind your RV-6A?
does it cause a lot of drag? :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV7A elevator trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
The Pro-Seal is not in there to keep the stiffeners apart it is there to
hold them together. Sorta. Actually it's there to keep them from moving
too much and causing cracks. I wouldn't use pro-seal as it is way to early
to order and you won't need it for anything else until it's fuel tank time.
It has a short shelf life, and it ain't cheap. Go to the auto parts store
and get some Blue RTV and use that.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach
RV-7 - N727WB (reserved)
http://wwwmyrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Kiekover" <stneki@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7A elevator trailing edge
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Kiekover" <stneki@hotmail.com>
>
> In my instructions it mentioned proseal for the elevator but no reference
to
> using it during assembly. Is proseal used on the stiffeners at the
trailing
> edge? To me it looks like it is not needed as the upper and lower
stiffeners
> are far enough apart. Thanks Steve
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Raise Your Hand--Su 'N Fun |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
That reminds me....Today several (4-RV's) of us flew to a casino in MN which
treats pilots wonderfully. They picked us up at the airport then they gave
us each 5 bucks. Just about covered breakfast!
Anyway, one of the questions on the form was:
"How did you arrive....CAR, BUS, RV, OTHER"??
So, we had to check "RV"! Makes sense to me!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Springer
Subject: Re: RV-List: Raise Your Hand--Su 'N Fun
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
WALTER KERR wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
>
> I'll be there, but do not know which hand to raise at this time. Will be
> flying the 6A back from Memphis babysitting the day before it starts.
>
> May flyin and camp in tent if wife doesn't wish to bring the RV camping
> trailer.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, 9A rotary building, SE Fla
>
Bernie, how is the "RV camping trailer" handle behind your RV-6A?
does it cause a lot of drag? :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 19
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"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>, "RV8ListVANS" <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>,
"rv8-list" <rv8-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Vancouver and Oregon RVers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
I am building an 8, and I will be in Vancouver Sunday Mar.2 until Friday. I may
take a drive to Vans ( I still have not been able to get a ride in one) and look
around. If anyone wants to show me thier RV give me a call or email me. 859-381-9460.
Thanks. Al Grajek
RV8
Finish kit
Message 20
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"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>, "RV8ListVANS" <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>,
"rv8-list" <rv8-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Vancouver and Oregon RVers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
I am building an 8, and I will be in Vancouver Sunday Mar.2 until Friday. I may
take a drive to Vans ( I still have not been able to get a ride in one) and look
around. If anyone wants to show me thier RV give me a call or email me. 859-381-9460.
Thanks. Al Grajek
RV8
Finish kit
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Double OUCH.
I am a pilot who built a plane and not a A&P or pro of any kind, but we just
put a countersunk pop rivet in the hole. No rubbing on the aileron and NO
way the hingle pin can come out.
Drill it out when you need to work on the flap and then re pop rivet the
hole.
Keep it simple _______ (KISS) works for me.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Hinge Pin Safety?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Ouch!!! no cutting brackets for me. So far the best way is the way
> others have done and I did on mine and that is to cut a couple loops out
> of the center of the hinge and cut the pin in half and run the pin in
> from the center. It is easy to get to with the flap push rod unhooked.
>
> Jerry
>
>
> thomas a. sargent wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
<sarg314@earthlink.com>
> >
> > Henry:
> > The brass ferrule is a good idea.
> >
> > I did think about the pin fouling the aileron, though. To further
> > complicate matters, somehow my aileron bracket slightly overlapped and
> > interfered with the end of the flap hinge by about 1/8". I could have
> > just cut half of the last hinge eye off, but the possibility of
> > interference, should the pin back out, bother me. So, after discussing
> > it with Vans, I cut a notch about 1/4" deep in the edge of the inboard
> > aileron bracket - the A-607 that is mounted to the aileron. I had to
> > do it on both ailerons. It is now impossible for the flap hinge pin to
> > foul the A-607. I think the amount of weakening to the aileron is
> > negligble. I hope the DAR agrees with me when that day comes!
> >
> > Elsa & Henry wrote:
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> >>
> >>Tom,
> >>Re your post on the subject 2/28, in which you are going to plug the
hole in
> >>the hinge bracket with a #4 screw, etc. No point in doing that: If the
> >>hinge-pin eases outboard near the stationary hinge bracket, it will
> >>interfere with the aileron hinge movement, not a happy occurrence! In
fact
> >>I'm surprised by some posts in which the builders said they did nothing
to
> >>anchor the flap hinge pins because they were tough to feed them in.
Sooner
> >>or later they might loosen-up and the pilot may find his aileron
movement
> >>impaired!!
> >>
> >>The info given to you by Gus is exactly what I did on mine. See my post
of
> >>2/28 detailing what I did. If you are worried that the outboard
hinge-eye
> >>may break-off (with the cotter-pin) and you want to retain capability
to
> >>remove the pin at some time later, you could install a brass ferrule
with a
> >>grub-screw on the inboard end of the pin, akin to an old radio knob but
with
> >>the hole diameter to fit the pin.
> >>
> >>---------Cheers!!---Henry Hore
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I have been looking at how I could couple my AnywhereMap/Garmin GPS35 to the
Smart Coupler and ultimately to the NavAid wing leveler in my RV6A I now
use my Lowarnce for that and it works perfectly, but wanted the GPS 35 as a
backup.
I now find that the Garmin 35 does not output the GRB sentence that
contains the 'cross track' information needed for course correction.
Looks like a dead end...I thought that since the '35 outputs NMEA 0183 data
that it would all be there, but the crutial GRB sentence isn't there.
Did I miss something?
John at Salida, CO
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
Question: Is there any substitute adhesive for gluing the rudder trailing
edge together,before riveting, for the newer RV-7? The manual suggests the
fuel tank sealant (pro-seal). I have a newer kit with the RV-9 rudder.
If there are any builders in the southwestern Virginia area (BCB,ROA) who
have some extra sealent please, which they wouldn't mind parting with,
please send me a note.
Thanks in advance,
Matt
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