Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:04 AM - Re: Tip up canopy frame riveting (Gary)
2. 02:04 AM - Re: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) (Gary)
3. 04:37 AM - Re: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid (PASSPAT@aol.com)
4. 05:57 AM - Cedar Key, Fl (Lenleg@aol.com)
5. 06:57 AM - Need tank sealant for QB? (Roger Evenson)
6. 07:03 AM - Re: Rear wing spar (Gary)
7. 07:35 AM - Re: RV7/9 Rudder TE Sealant (Jack Lockamy)
8. 07:42 AM - Re: Need tank sealant for QB? (Kyle Boatright)
9. 07:42 AM - Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing (Imfairings@aol.com)
10. 07:58 AM - Re: Rear wing spar (Patrick Kelley)
11. 08:06 AM - Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? (Elsa & Henry)
12. 08:07 AM - Re: Tip up canopy frame riveting (Bob Hartley)
13. 08:09 AM - Re: RV7/9 Rudder TE (Patrick Kelley)
14. 08:21 AM - Re: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid (Todd Houg)
15. 09:07 AM - Fw: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid (John)
16. 09:47 AM - Re: RV7/9 Rudder TE (Stein Bruch)
17. 10:18 AM - Re: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid (Vanremog@aol.com)
18. 11:00 AM - Re: Raise your hand! (eregensburg)
19. 12:02 PM - Control Stick w. AN4? (Larry Bowen)
20. 12:48 PM - Re: RV7/9 Rudder TE (Bob Coalson)
21. 03:05 PM - Re: Wire I D Tags (David Wentzell)
22. 03:40 PM - Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front wheel off to put air in it?" (Dan DeNeal)
23. 03:51 PM - Re: Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front wheel off to put air in it?" (Alex Peterson)
24. 04:05 PM - Re: Wheel Pants on RV6a (Jim Oke)
25. 04:09 PM - Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) (Ed Bundy)
26. 04:33 PM - Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) (Jerry Springer)
27. 04:40 PM - Re: RV7/9 Rudder TE (WALTER KERR)
28. 05:28 PM - Re: Fw: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid (Sam Buchanan)
29. 05:35 PM - NACA Scoops (RVer273sb@aol.com)
30. 05:41 PM - Re: Control Stick w. AN4? (Charlie Kuss)
31. 06:27 PM - Re: NACA Scoops (Larry Pardue)
32. 06:57 PM - Re: NACA Scoops (Gary Zilik)
33. 06:58 PM - Re: Need tank sealant for QB? (Gary Zilik)
34. 07:28 PM - Re: Control Stick w. AN4? (Vanremog@aol.com)
35. 07:30 PM - Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) (Denis Walsh)
36. 07:34 PM - Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) (Vanremog@aol.com)
37. 07:34 PM - Re: Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front wheel ... (Vanremog@aol.com)
38. 07:41 PM - Free speed (Russ Alnutt)
39. 08:36 PM - Re: Free speed (Dr. Leathers)
40. 08:36 PM - Re: Free speed (Chris)
41. 09:15 PM - Re: Control Stick w. AN4? (Larry Bowen)
42. 10:02 PM - Re: Raise your hand! (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
43. 10:23 PM - Re: Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front wheel off to put air in it?" (Jim Jewell)
44. 11:26 PM - Re: Fw: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Tip up canopy frame riveting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Time: 03:20:17 PM PST US
From: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
Subject: Tip up canopy frame riveting
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
Ref: Tip up canopy frame RV9A (same as 7A)
I've finished all the fitting and drilling of the canopy frame and the next
step is to start fitting and cutting the plexi glass. However, there is no
mention of riveting the actual canopy frame skin to the canopy frame. How
can I fit the plexi with clecoes sticking out of the canopy frame? Do I go
ahead and rivet it together now?
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
Bob......are you talking about the C-702 Canopy forward Skin? On page 9-8 in my
manual it tells you to rivet it and the C-603 side skins on after the plexi
is fitted and drilled, and the side skins are fitted and drilled. You can leave
out the clecos that interfere with the plexi if you use this method.
However, as I recall, I had already riveted the forward skin before this. Just
read ahead, and make sure you are not going to mess up a sequence before you
decide to rivet it. Pay close attention to the area where the front and side
skins come together, and the 614 splice plate, the ball stud mount, and the 723
wedge spacer go. In this section of the manual, there were several instances
where I felt they had the sequences messed up.
Gary
---
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
: 09:55:49 AM PST US
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: to overap or not to overlap (tip-up canopy)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm considering modifying the RV-7 tip-up canopy by riveting on a thin strip
of skin along the bottom side edges of the canopy. That strip of skin would
overlap the fuselage side skin by about 1/2" or 3/4" or so...............
Dan.......if you do this, you will need to install canopy guides on the roll bar
which guide the latches very accurately straight down as the canopy closes the
last couple of inches. This is a good idea anyway, but would be even more
necessary in this case.
As you open or close the canopy, lifting from one side, it will twist slightly.
This would cause the skins you describe to hit the canopy deck. Even without
your overlaping skin, the corner of the plexi will bump the roll bar as it closes.
UHMW guides which engage the latches as it comes down will keep the rear
of the canopy centered.
Also be aware that the sides of the canopy frame will have to be fitted to conform
very closely to the curve of the longerons in this area......not too easy
to do with extreme accuracy. Mine sure doesn't match that close.
Good Luck, let us know how it works.
Gary
---
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid |
--> RV-List message posted by: PASSPAT@aol.com
I think Procine makes a smart coupler that converts the 35 data stream
to the left / right output that the navaid requires .
Pat Patterson RV-7-A N 602 EP
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
We have several RVs making a trip to the Keys in May with a night over in
Cedar Key ... has been a while since I stayed there ... do any of you Florida
guys have suggestions for hotels, bed & breakfast, restaurants?
Thanks !!
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
57 hours !!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Need tank sealant for QB? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Evenson <revenson@comcast.net>
I need to order some more sealant to finish my empennage. Will I need more for
the rest of the airframe? (I've got a QB, so the fuel tanks are already sealed.)
Any need for more?
Roger. RV9A
Tucson, AZ
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rear wing spar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Time: 07:46:49 AM PST US
From: "jeckenroth@nbn.net" <jeckenroth@nbn.net>
Subject: Rear wing spar
--> RV-List message posted by: "jeckenroth@nbn.net" <jeckenroth@nbn.net>
I am looking for advise on the following. The Z shaped rear spar on
my RV9 is bowed up 3/16" vertical in the center of the spar. The
right wing is bowed down 1/32". Van's engineer says no problem, but
I would like the opinion of the knowledgeable builders on the list.
Is this something that will not affect the appearance and flying
qualities of the plane or should it be replaced. The spar is riveted
but the wing is not. The spar cannot be straightened since the bow
is through the web.
Paul Eckenroth RV90550
Palmyra, PA
Paul.......I am not sure what you mean by the spar being riveted......to the ribs?
Have you clecoed the skins on yet?
It seems to me that if the pre-punched skins will cleco on and fit well, top and
bottom, then the wing must come out straight. If they will not cleco on properly,
then the answer is obvious.......Van's should replace the spar.
Gary
---
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV7/9 Rudder TE Sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Matt (and others),
I used 3M Marine 5200 Sealant on my rudder trailing edge (see http://www.iboats.com/products/7/3399_3m_marine_5200_adhesive_sealant.html
). Worked great! It
goes on easily, can be purchased locally if you have a Marine supplier nearby,
and a 3 oz. squeeze tube only cost me $6.
BTW.... I also used this sealant when I installed Van's NACA vents to the sidewalls
in my Sonex. The stuff is incredibly strong when cured.
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL reserved
Camarillo, CA.
www.jacklockamy.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Need tank sealant for QB? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Proseal is very handy for sealing cracks, and adding a bit of "stick" on
miscellaneous assemblies. Also, it can be used on the canopy as a bead
between the canopy and the skirts around the plexi.
You can also use T-88 or some other epoxy to glue the trailing edge. I'd be
tempted to use one of the 15 minute or 1-hour epoxies you can find at any
hardware or home improvement store. That way, you could glue, wait a couple
of hours, and go ahead and rivet the assembly. Sometimes, particularly if
temps are cold or you don't add enough catalyst, proseal can take a week or
more to cure.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Need tank sealant for QB?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Roger Evenson <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> I need to order some more sealant to finish my empennage. Will I need
more for the rest of the airframe? (I've got a QB, so the fuel tanks are
already sealed.) Any need for more?
>
> Roger. RV9A
> Tucson, AZ
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing windscreen top fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Good Morning Doug,
Don't use electrical tape, it will probably melt. The blear box, or package tape
will work better. It will leave some sticky behind but acetone will clean
it.
Any good automotive wax (No Silicone) will help
Bob
Fairings-Etc
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Paul, if you mean that the spar is bowed in the plane of the web, it can
certainly be straightened. 3/16" is not so much that you will risk
kinking it. Once you get it to within a 1/16th or so, the skins, flap
brace, gap seal, etc. will serve to lock it in position. One method to
straighten the spar is to support the ends (with the web vertical) on a
couple of sawhorses with the bow toward the ceiling. At the high point,
use cargo strap (not rope, so the pressure is spread) to hang a bucket
in which you place weight until the spar is slightly reflexed. Remove
the weight and see how much springback you got; add more weight and
repeat as necessary. Go slow, you don't want to bend the spar the other
way.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Baggage ribs going into structure
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "jeckenroth@nbn.net"
<jeckenroth@nbn.net>
I am looking for advise on the following. The Z shaped rear spar
on
my RV9 is bowed up 3/16" vertical in the center of the spar. The
right wing is bowed down 1/32". Van's engineer says no problem,
but
I would like the opinion of the knowledgeable builders on the
list.
Is this something that will not affect the appearance and flying
qualities of the plane or should it be replaced. The spar is
riveted
but the wing is not. The spar cannot be straightened since the
bow
is through the web.
Paul Eckenroth RV90550
Palmyra, PA
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Hinge Pin Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
T.G,
I presume you mean the hole in the aileron mount (W413 on the RV-6/6A)? But
how did you anchor the flap hinge-pin to prevent it moving out and fouling
the steel A607 aileron bracket? I don't know if the design has changed since
1995 when I got my kit, but on my build (to then plans), with the access
hole for the flap hinge pin-drilled in the W413, if the pin slid outboard,
it would definitely hit he A607 and interfere with aileron movement, unless
you slotted the A607 as
Tom Sargent did. Otherwise filling the hole in the W413 serves no purpose.
That's why I put the cotter-pin in as I stated in my post 2/28.
Cheers!!---Henry Hoer.
>Tom Gummo wrote:
>I am a pilot who built a plane and not a&P or pro of any kind, but we just
>put a countersunk pop rivet in the hole. No rubbing on the aileron and NO
>way the hingle pin can come out.
>Drill it out when you need to work on the flap and then re pop rivet the
>hole.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Tip up canopy frame riveting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
Yes it is the C-702 canopy frame skin I'm talking about. I will not rivet it
right now and start the plexi fitting as suggested by another builder as
well. I guess I'll just remove all the clecoes that cause interference.
Thank you for your help,
$1000 pastic piece, here I come!
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
>From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Tip up canopy frame riveting
>Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 02:32:52 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
> Time: 03:20:17 PM PST US
>
> From: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
>
> Subject: Tip up canopy frame riveting
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
>
> Ref: Tip up canopy frame RV9A (same as 7A)
>
> I've finished all the fitting and drilling of the canopy frame and
>the next
> step is to start fitting and cutting the plexi glass. However, there
>is no
> mention of riveting the actual canopy frame skin to the canopy
>frame. How
> can I fit the plexi with clecoes sticking out of the canopy frame?
>Do I go
> ahead and rivet it together now?
>
> Bob Hartley
> RV9A
> CA
>
>
>Bob......are you talking about the C-702 Canopy forward Skin? On page 9-8
>in my manual it tells you to rivet it and the C-603 side skins on after the
>plexi is fitted and drilled, and the side skins are fitted and drilled.
>You can leave out the clecos that interfere with the plexi if you use this
>method.
>
>However, as I recall, I had already riveted the forward skin before this.
>Just read ahead, and make sure you are not going to mess up a sequence
>before you decide to rivet it. Pay close attention to the area where the
>front and side skins come together, and the 614 splice plate, the ball stud
>mount, and the 723 wedge spacer go. In this section of the manual, there
>were several instances where I felt they had the sequences messed up.
>
>Gary
>
>
>---
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Use RTV. If your skins are not primed inside, ask for the electronic
grade RTV - it doesn't produce any corrosive byproducts as it cures.
This has been discussed before and you can check the archives; IIRC, it
is sometimes difficult to locate the electronic grade RTV. I think it's
because the clerks at the hardware store don't know what the different
types of RTV are; I found my tube at an ACE store when still in Chicago
- but the store clerks had no idea what I was talking about. Oddly
enough, I have never been able to find it at an electronic supply...
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A Baggage bulkheads going into structure
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Orr
Subject: RV-List: RV7/9 Rudder TE
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
Question: Is there any substitute adhesive for gluing the rudder
trailing
edge together,before riveting, for the newer RV-7? The manual suggests
the
fuel tank sealant (pro-seal). I have a newer kit with the RV-9 rudder.
If there are any builders in the southwestern Virginia area (BCB,ROA)
who
have some extra sealent please, which they wouldn't mind parting with,
please send me a note.
Thanks in advance,
Matt
Message 14
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| Subject: | Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Todd Houg <thoug@attglobal.net>
Pat,
The Porcine smart coupler simply takes the cross track error from an NMEA data
stream and converts it to a course deviation signal that the Navaid uses. The
original poster indicated that the data stream from the GPS 35 did no have this
cross track error information in the data stream. This is perfectly logical,
since the GPS 35 is only a GPS receiver and does not have course information
or waypoints. It merely generates the data stream of current position. It has
no clue about where you want to go! That's where the AnywhereMap comes in, AnywhereMap
understands the course and waypoint information. The only way to make
the GPS 35 drive a Navaid would be to have the Anywhere map software merge the
GPS 35 data stream with the course correction data on a seperate serial interface
that could then be sent to the smart coupler.
Todd Houg
RV-9A Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: PASSPAT@aol.com [SMTP:PASSPAT@aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid
--> RV-List message posted by: PASSPAT@aol.com
I think Procine makes a smart coupler that converts the 35 data stream
to the left / right output that the navaid requires .
Pat Patterson RV-7-A N 602 EP
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aRUnBtA7sSIwIFkIYCds3wMgFxAuohEwGOBiAHAy0f8c0DwRBbEAcBqwL4A3AX34/yjSNEIjsEcy
iIEekgQAZOL/IFEbMjngX/WAlCIgeR+Oby+Pf5CPfV9+YSE4ME5FXlcEAEYwkuB9+EIDYHdzH7Fi
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ZdbgwgFAAAgwgFV7ZdbgwgELAACACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAADhQAAAAAAAAMAAoAIIAYA
AAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABCFAAAAAAAAAwAFgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAUoUAALcNAAAD
AAmACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAABhQAAAAAAAB4AE4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAFSF
AAABAAAABAAAADguMAALABeACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAOhQAAAAAAAAMAGIAIIAYAAAAA
AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABGFAAAAAAAAAwAagAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAGIUAAAAAAAAeACmA
CCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA2hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgAqgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYA
AAAAN4UAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4AK4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADiFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAA
AAAeAD0AAQAAAAUAAABSRTogAAAAAAMADTT9NwAArM4
Message 15
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| Subject: | Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
That's correct...the problem is that the Garmin GPS 35 apparently does NOT
output an RMB sentence which contains the 'cross track error' - that's what
the Smart Coupler converts into analog voltages which feed the controller
that moves the ailerons to keep you on course. My guess is that I am
"screwed" trying to make this system work...might be easiest to look for an
old Lowrance for a back up, that works just fine.
Thanks for your response anyway.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: <PASSPAT@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid
> --> RV-List message posted by: PASSPAT@aol.com
>
>
> I think Procine makes a smart coupler that converts the 35 data
stream
> to the left / right output that the navaid requires .
>
> Pat Patterson RV-7-A N 602 EP
>
>
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Matt,
If you're carefull you won't need any glue. I'll probably get flamed here,
but I didn't use a thing and my T/E came out straight as an arrow. I was
just VERY carefull when doing the final riveting. I only set the rivets
partially every 10th rivet or so, then did the same thing over and over
untill all rivets were partially set. Then I went back and set them for
good. Using a good backriveting plate and patience, there should be no
reason you can't have a good T/E.
Keep in mind, this isn't my 1st or 2nd project, so you might want to take
experience into consideration.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Flying
RV7, Tail Done.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Orr
Subject: RV-List: RV7/9 Rudder TE
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
Question: Is there any substitute adhesive for gluing the rudder trailing
edge together,before riveting, for the newer RV-7? The manual suggests the
fuel tank sealant (pro-seal). I have a newer kit with the RV-9 rudder.
If there are any builders in the southwestern Virginia area (BCB,ROA) who
have some extra sealent please, which they wouldn't mind parting with,
please send me a note.
Thanks in advance,
Matt
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/2/2003 4:39:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, PASSPAT@aol.com
writes:
> I think Procine makes a smart coupler that converts the 35 data stream
> to the left / right output that the Navaid requires
That's Porcine (as in... pig). Jim Ham (get it?) is the guy who designed it.
Contact info is in the Yeller Pages.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Raise your hand! |
--> RV-List message posted by: eregensburg <eregensburg@triad.rr.com>
I am going !! Flying N925RV - RV 6A
Ed
>On Thu, 27 Feb 2003 18:19:32 -0800 "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com> wrote.
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
>
>All those who intend to fly their RV's to SnF raise your hand.
>
>All those who intend to get to SnF any way they can raise your other hand.
>
>I have my other hand up.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8 N94DW
>Old Crow
>Newport, OR
>
>
>Do not archive
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Control Stick w. AN4? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
According to the plans, the forward control stick is installed with an
AN4-27 bolt. So, it seems odd that the WD-807 weldment, the big with
the control stick mounts to, is pre-drilled to AN3.
It also seems odd there is nothing in the archives about this. Is my
WD-807 a one-of-a-kind, or did everyone else have to enlarge it to .25"
too?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RV7/9 Rudder TE |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Coalson" <bcoalson@verizon.net>
Matt; Where are you in SWVA? I'm in Radford, Va and I have an extra can of
the stuff(someone at Van's told me that I needed two cans but the people at
the plant told me I only needed one when I visited them a couple months
ago.) You can contact me at bcoalson@verizon .net or give me a call at
540-239-1572 Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV7/9 Rudder TE
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Hi Matt,
>
> If you're carefull you won't need any glue. I'll probably get flamed
here,
> but I didn't use a thing and my T/E came out straight as an arrow. I was
> just VERY carefull when doing the final riveting. I only set the rivets
> partially every 10th rivet or so, then did the same thing over and over
> untill all rivets were partially set. Then I went back and set them for
> good. Using a good backriveting plate and patience, there should be no
> reason you can't have a good T/E.
>
> Keep in mind, this isn't my 1st or 2nd project, so you might want to take
> experience into consideration.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Flying
> RV7, Tail Done.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Orr
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV7/9 Rudder TE
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
>
> Question: Is there any substitute adhesive for gluing the rudder trailing
> edge together,before riveting, for the newer RV-7? The manual suggests
the
> fuel tank sealant (pro-seal). I have a newer kit with the RV-9 rudder.
>
> If there are any builders in the southwestern Virginia area (BCB,ROA) who
> have some extra sealent please, which they wouldn't mind parting with,
> please send me a note.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Matt
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Wire I D Tags |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Wentzell <wntzl@execpc.com>
Greetings
I have discovered that on the wire I D Tags that I gave to listers on
that first go-around (No's 1 - 40 only), have an unacceptable
adhesive. I have since made new ones, and want to notify those with that
first group of numbers of this problem.
I will replace them, but I did not keep records of whom I sent to.
So, if you would like the replacements you need to notify me (e-mail off
list, or send SASE) and I will send you a new set.
David Wentzell
220 White Sand Lane
Racine, Wisconsin 53402
Those who received no's 1 - 80 are notaffected, you already have the
replacement material.
Do not archieve
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front wheel |
off to put air in it?"
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
I have been trying to mount the wheel pants on my 6A
this week (only because they are closer to the blast
of warm air from the furnace). Burrrrr!!
I think I understand how the wheel pants go on and
off. The problem I see is that if you need to work on
the front wheel for anything (even to add air), you
have to take the bolt out that holds the front wheel
on just to remove the wheel pant.
Tell me this is not right?!?
Confused,
Dan DeNeal
Not taxing anymore
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front |
wheel off to put air in it?"
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
It is so, and this topic comes up every few months. Search for
nosewheel and fairing and alexpeterson, much has been discussed about
this rather "weak" design, and how to make it better. Most of Van's
designs are truly elegant, but the nosewheel fairing mounting design
just might get the award for weakest.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 264 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> -----Orig
> I think I understand how the wheel pants go on and
> off. The problem I see is that if you need to work on
> the front wheel for anything (even to add air), you
> have to take the bolt out that holds the front wheel
> on just to remove the wheel pant.
>
> Tell me this is not right?!?
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants on RV6a |
"Do you really have to take the front wheel off to put air in it?"
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Dan;
If you follow the plans, YES. However, there are other options.
Try searching the archives with "peterson" & "nosewheel" to see what a
fellow builder on the list has done. (Basically use a few screws and blind
nuts vice rivets to fasten the alum. bracket which the axle bolt passes
through to the fiberglass - somewhat like the mainwheel pants use).
(I wish I had come across this idea before the riveted my nosewheel fairing
barckets in place and painted the whole thing. A bit late now but I'll see
how it flies and think about changing later. Maybe there will not be many
occaisions when nosewheel fairing removal is needed.)
Jim Oke
RV-6A (at the airport - tinkering - waiting for warmer weather)
WInnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front
wheel off to put air in it?"
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> I have been trying to mount the wheel pants on my 6A
> this week (only because they are closer to the blast
> of warm air from the furnace). Burrrrr!!
>
> I think I understand how the wheel pants go on and
> off. The problem I see is that if you need to work on
> the front wheel for anything (even to add air), you
> have to take the bolt out that holds the front wheel
> on just to remove the wheel pant.
>
> Tell me this is not right?!?
>
> Confused,
> Dan DeNeal
> Not taxing anymore
>
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@velocitus.net>
I think I'm going to replace my Concord with one of these also. Are the
terminals on the Odyssey compatible with the terminals on a Concord, or do
you need something else?
Ed Bundy RV6a 500+ hours
> That is where I bought mine and received good service. The only
> thing I thought was funny was that when I called them to order, the
> lady told me it would cost me more over the phone than it would if I
> ordered online. She said she was the one that took online orders also
> but It was cheaper online so I hung up and ordered it online. As you
> said Batteries4everything was a little cheaper but they had to back
> order it at the time I was shopping. So far I am really happy with that
> little Odyssey-PC680.
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Ed,
Here is a picture.
http://www.sunnbattery.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=553828%7C1209500&PRID=1292858
Ed Bundy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@velocitus.net>
>
> I think I'm going to replace my Concord with one of these also. Are the
> terminals on the Odyssey compatible with the terminals on a Concord, or do
> you need something else?
>
> Ed Bundy RV6a 500+ hours
>
>
>>That is where I bought mine and received good service. The only
>>thing I thought was funny was that when I called them to order, the
>>lady told me it would cost me more over the phone than it would if I
>>ordered online. She said she was the one that took online orders also
>>but It was cheaper online so I hung up and ordered it online. As you
>>said Batteries4everything was a little cheaper but they had to back
>>order it at the time I was shopping. So far I am really happy with that
>>little Odyssey-PC680.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7/9 Rudder TE |
--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
Hi Matt,
I am not doing a QB, but had no trouble keeping my TE's straight on all
surfaces. I used a 1/4 inch set on one side of the squeezer and a 1/2 on the
other. Keep the 1/2 inch on the top and position the 1/4 inch as far forward
as you can on the bottom side. This way you can squeeze the rivet down
without touching the bottom side almost all the way. I held the TE straight
during this operation by clamping a 1 1/2 X
1 1/2 inch Home depot al angle to the part just in from of the rivets. I
then back riveted it to get the bottom of the rivet flush. Came out true and
was done in very short order.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, 9A rotary power building
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV7/9 Rudder TE
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Hi Matt,
>
> If you're carefull you won't need any glue. I'll probably get flamed
here,
> but I didn't use a thing and my T/E came out straight as an arrow. I was
> just VERY carefull when doing the final riveting. I only set the rivets
> partially every 10th rivet or so, then did the same thing over and over
> untill all rivets were partially set. Then I went back and set them for
> good. Using a good backriveting plate and patience, there should be no
> reason you can't have a good T/E.
>
> Keep in mind, this isn't my 1st or 2nd project, so you might want to take
> experience into consideration.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Flying
> RV7, Tail Done.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Orr
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV7/9 Rudder TE
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
>
> Question: Is there any substitute adhesive for gluing the rudder trailing
> edge together,before riveting, for the newer RV-7? The manual suggests
the
> fuel tank sealant (pro-seal). I have a newer kit with the RV-9 rudder.
>
> If there are any builders in the southwestern Virginia area (BCB,ROA) who
> have some extra sealent please, which they wouldn't mind parting with,
> please send me a note.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Matt
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
John wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> That's correct...the problem is that the Garmin GPS 35 apparently does NOT
> output an RMB sentence which contains the 'cross track error' - that's what
> the Smart Coupler converts into analog voltages which feed the controller
> that moves the ailerons to keep you on course. My guess is that I am
> "screwed" trying to make this system work...might be easiest to look for an
> old Lowrance for a back up, that works just fine.
>
> Thanks for your response anyway.
>
> John at Salida, CO
John, why not use the AnywhereMap/GPS35 powered iPAQ for your backup?
The NMEA data stream out of the iPAQ has all the sentences the Smart
Coupler needs for full functionality. Here is a link to the system I
installed in my RV-6 that used the iPAQ to drive the Navaid with backup
duties assigned to the Lowrance Airmap 100:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/ipaq.htm
Sam Buchanan
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
Looking for a supplier for Naca scoops
for fresh air inlet on a rocket
Stewart, N273SB
do not archive
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick w. AN4? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Larry,
I wondered the same thing. Double checked the blueprint and opened the hole up
to 1/4".
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>According to the plans, the forward control stick is installed with an
>AN4-27 bolt. So, it seems odd that the WD-807 weldment, the big with
>the control stick mounts to, is pre-drilled to AN3.
>
>It also seems odd there is nothing in the archives about this. Is my
>WD-807 a one-of-a-kind, or did everyone else have to enlarge it to .25"
>too?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>2003 - The year of flight!
>
>
Message 31
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
>
> Looking for a supplier for Naca scoops
> for fresh air inlet on a rocket
> Stewart, N273SB
>
> do not archive
>
http://www.vansaircraft.com
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Stu if you need just one I have a spare one from Van's kit.
Gary Zilik
RVer273sb@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
>
>Looking for a supplier for Naca scoops
>for fresh air inlet on a rocket
> Stewart, N273SB
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Need tank sealant for QB? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Just curious, where in/on the empenage are you using proseal?
Gary Zilik
RV-6A with no proseal on/in my empenage
Roger Evenson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Evenson <revenson@comcast.net>
>
>I need to order some more sealant to finish my empennage. Will I need more for
the rest of the airframe? (I've got a QB, so the fuel tanks are already sealed.)
Any need for more?
>
>Roger. RV9A
>Tucson, AZ
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Control Stick w. AN4? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/2/2003 12:03:55 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
> According to the plans, the forward control stick is installed with an
> AN4-27 bolt. So, it seems odd that the WD-807 weldment, the big with
> the control stick mounts to, is pre-drilled to AN3.
>
> It also seems odd there is nothing in the archives about this. Is my
> WD-807 a one-of-a-kind, or did everyone else have to enlarge it to .25"
> too?
Why is having a smaller hole than the final one odd? Just a wild guess, but
I'd say that it probably was undersized intentionally so that the
manufacturer (you) could ream it out in assembly for the right class of fit.
Are the new kits really so complete now that you can just assemble them to
this stage without the need to drill or ream holes?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@velocitus.net>
>
> I think I'm going to replace my Concord with one of these also. Are the
> terminals on the Odyssey compatible with the terminals on a Concord, or do
> you need something else?
>
> Ed Bundy RV6a 500+ hours
>
>> That is where I bought mine and received good service. The only
>> thing I thought was funny was that when I called them to order, the
>> lady told me it would cost me more over the phone than it would if I
>> ordered online. She said she was the one that took online orders also
>> but It was cheaper online so I hung up and ordered it online. As you
>> said Batteries4everything was a little cheaper but they had to back
>> order it at the time I was shopping. So far I am really happy with that
>> little Odyssey-PC680.
>
>
I think it is some funky metric size; however mine was slightly smaller so
the old terminals worked ok. This was with the 625, which may be a better
choice than the 680, who knows? My 625 has threaded post and my 680 has a
threaded hole. I was able to scrunch the old leads in to place and add some
wood spacers to the box, with out much trouble.
The reason I have two of these beauties is my original odyssey is over two
years old, but is still showing great strength so have been too lazy ( and
cold) to swap out.
Denis
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery (best source these days) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/2/2003 4:10:13 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ebundy@velocitus.net writes:
> I think I'm going to replace my Concord with one of these also. Are the
> terminals on the Odyssey compatible with the terminals on a Concord, or do
> you need something else?
The Odyssey terminals are 8mm. Check archives for the particulars. I made
spacers.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front |
wheel ...
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/2/2003 3:41:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv6apilot@yahoo.com writes:
> I think I understand how the wheel pants go on and
> off. The problem I see is that if you need to work on
> the front wheel for anything (even to add air), you
> have to take the bolt out that holds the front wheel
> on just to remove the wheel pant.
Most of us put a 7/8" diameter hole in each pant the right distance for the
axle and fill thru it with an extension. Cover the hole with a plastic or
metal cap.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
I wish to share something with all RVers. I discovered this by accident. If you
put a reverse scoop on the belly of your plane towards the back you will likely
pickup about 5mph. I did this because I thought that the cockpit had to much
positive pressure and couldn't get out. I was partially right. When you let
the air out of the back the sliding canopy does not go our as far and the speed
increases. Try it it will only cost you a little time.
rsalnutt@inreach.com
Message 39
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
RUSS,
Can you post a picture of your scoop?
DOC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
Subject: RV-List: Free speed
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
>
> I wish to share something with all RVers. I discovered this by accident.
If you put a reverse scoop on the belly of your plane towards the back you
will likely pickup about 5mph. I did this because I thought that the cockpit
had to much positive pressure and couldn't get out. I was partially right.
When you let the air out of the back the sliding canopy does not go our as
far and the speed increases. Try it it will only cost you a little time.
>
> rsalnutt@inreach.com
>
>
Message 40
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--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
what do you mean by the sliding canopy does not go as far?
Chris
Russ Alnutt wrote:
> I wish to share something with all RVers. I discovered this by accident. If you
put a reverse scoop on the belly of your plane towards the back you will likely
pickup about 5mph. I did this because I thought that the cockpit had to much
positive pressure and couldn't get out. I was partially right. When you let
the air out of the back the sliding canopy does not go our as far and the speed
increases. Try it it will only cost you a little time.
>
> rsalnutt@inreach.com
Message 41
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| Subject: | Control Stick w. AN4? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
All holes in the WD807 weldment are already AN3. Not undersized AN3,
just AN3. All take an AN3 bolt, except the fwd control stick takes an
AN4. Odd how that hole is only AN3. Hmmmm. Ask questions. Avoid
reordering parts. Save money. Make new friends. Fly sooner. Etc...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Vanremog@aol.com
>
> Why is having a smaller hole than the final one odd? Just a
> wild guess, but
> I'd say that it probably was undersized intentionally so that the
> manufacturer (you) could ream it out in assembly for the
> right class of fit.
>
> Are the new kits really so complete now that you can just
> assemble them to
> this stage without the need to drill or ream holes?
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Raise your hand! |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
I'm planning to be there. Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front |
wheel off to put air in it?"
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dan,
What you see is true unless you decide to replace the rivets that hold the
wheel axel brackets with plate nuts (4 #8 plate nuts for each bracket).
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Pants on RV6a "Do you really have to take the front
wheel off to put air in it?"
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> I have been trying to mount the wheel pants on my 6A
> this week (only because they are closer to the blast
> of warm air from the furnace). Burrrrr!!
>
> I think I understand how the wheel pants go on and
> off. The problem I see is that if you need to work on
> the front wheel for anything (even to add air), you
> have to take the bolt out that holds the front wheel
> on just to remove the wheel pant.
>
> Tell me this is not right?!?
>
> Confused,
> Dan DeNeal
> Not taxing anymore
>
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 35/AnywhereMap feeding a NavAid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Sam,
If I read you correctly, when you switched from the Sentinal flash card
GPS to the GPS35, you wired the Lowrance back into the Naviad and use
the GPS35 to drive the Ipaq only. In all your experimenting, did you
ever have a setup where the Navaid was driven by the anywhere map, which
was getting signal from the GPS35? If so how did it work?
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit
Milwaukee WI
>John, why not use the AnywhereMap/GPS35 powered iPAQ for your backup?
>The NMEA data stream out of the iPAQ has all the sentences the Smart
>Coupler needs for full functionality. Here is a link to the system I
>installed in my RV-6 that used the iPAQ to drive the Navaid with backup
>duties assigned to the Lowrance Airmap 100:
>
>http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/ipaq.htm
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
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