Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:22 AM - Re: VM Fuel Flow Sender needed (Vanremog@aol.com)
2. 03:27 AM - Re: RV9-A QB fuselage (Dana Overall)
3. 04:09 AM - Re: crimping big terminals (Kevin Horton)
4. 05:42 AM - Re: crimping big terminals (Gene Gottschalk)
5. 05:42 AM - Re: VM Fuel Flow Sender needed (Larry Pardue)
6. 05:45 AM - Re: RV9-A QB fuselage (Larry Pardue)
7. 06:08 AM - (Frazier, Vincent A)
8. 06:23 AM - Re: SportAir RV workshop (Bruce Anthony)
9. 06:26 AM - Re: VM Fuel Flow Sender needed (Scott Bilinski)
10. 07:45 AM - Re: RV9-A QB fuselage (Bill Marvel)
11. 07:51 AM - Cell phone wiring (Shemp)
12. 08:08 AM - Crimp versus Solder (long) (was: crimping big terminals) (Bill Dube)
13. 08:09 AM - Re: crimping big terminals (Elsa & Henry)
14. 08:27 AM - Re: crimping big terminals (Arthur Nation)
15. 08:46 AM - Re: RV9-A QB fuselage (Jerry Springer)
16. 09:09 AM - Re: For Sale (was:Altimeter heads up) (Elsa & Henry)
17. 09:15 AM - RV7 Wing conduit (Steve Kiekover)
18. 09:36 AM - Re: RV9-A QB fuselage (kempthornes)
19. 09:38 AM - Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) (kempthornes)
20. 09:40 AM - Re: crimping big terminals (Bill Dube)
21. 09:43 AM - Re: RV9-A QB fuselage (Bill Marvel)
22. 10:00 AM - Re: crimping big terminals (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
23. 10:07 AM - Re: VM Fuel Flow Sender needed (Matt Dralle)
24. 10:40 AM - Re: For Sale (was:Altimeter heads up) (Konrad Werner)
25. 10:44 AM - Re: RV9-A QB fuselage (Scott Bilinski)
26. 10:52 AM - Re: Paint on canopies (Christopher J Fortin)
27. 10:55 AM - Re: crimping big terminals (Arthur Nation)
28. 11:01 AM - Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) (Rob Prior)
29. 11:13 AM - Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) (Arthur Nation)
30. 11:37 AM - Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
31. 11:43 AM - Re: For Sale (was:Altimeter heads up) (Arthur Nation)
32. 01:04 PM - Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) (Bill Dube)
33. 03:16 PM - F-639-640 floor skins & F-604 attach (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
34. 03:49 PM - Re: Crimp versus Solder (long) (was: crimping big terminals) (Doug Gray)
35. 04:05 PM - Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) (Dave Bristol)
36. 04:09 PM - RV6A top fuselage skins (Jeff Orear)
37. 04:11 PM - Galls Flasher FS039 (Amit Dagan)
38. 05:36 PM - Re: RV6A top fuselage skins (Alex Peterson)
39. 05:43 PM - Re: RV7 Wing conduit (Karie Daniel)
40. 06:11 PM - Re: RV6A top fuselage skins (Jeff Orear)
41. 06:45 PM - Re: Crimp versus Solder(was:crimping big terminals) (Rick Galati)
42. 06:53 PM - Re: F-639-640 floor skins & F-604 attach (Elsa & Henry)
43. 07:24 PM - Re: RV6A top fuselage skins (Jim Jewell)
44. 07:35 PM - Re: Re: Crimp versus Solder(was:crimping big terminals) (Dave Bristol)
45. 09:40 PM - slow hand (Wheeler North)
46. 09:43 PM - Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) (Vanremog@aol.com)
47. 11:37 PM - Re: crimping big terminals (Wayne R. Couture)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: VM Fuel Flow Sender needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/6/2003 11:04:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dralle@matronics.com writes:
> You might consider calling FloScan and seeing about sending it in for
> "repair". They stand behind their transducers pretty well, and if its
> a totally blocked rotor, they might very well send you a replacement.
>
Matt-
Thanks for the inside info. I'll try the blowout method.
Can I use compressed air to back flush it or will that hurt it?
Do you have a phone number and contact person for FloScan?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV9-A QB fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Hal, I hate to catagorize us "new" builders but with this pre punched
stuff.........until you get to the finish kit, you could call us assemblers,
not builders and we probably wouldn't get mad:-)
Kinda like calling a runner a jogger.
Trust me, the new stuff isn't very daunting. Like many have said before, to
each his own, but the time factor is no longer in the equation. You can
build a component now before you would get a QB, if you ordered both at the
same time.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
At 8:33 PM -0500 6/3/03, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
>Can someone give me a source to buy a large crimping tool for 6
>and 8 AWG ring terminals (not insulated)?
>
>I tried to find a rental shop but no luck. Plus I'll need it for several
>other projects as well.
>
>Thank you
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>RV7A
>CFZQX
>Wiring
Why not solder them? Bob Nuckolls has a How-To on the web - I
soldered mine and it wasn't difficult at all.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gene Gottschalk <geneg@sled.gsfc.nasa.gov>
West Marine P/N 214080 (Ancor 701010)
At 08:33 PM 3/6/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
>Can someone give me a source to buy a large crimping tool for 6
>and 8 AWG ring terminals (not insulated)?
>
>I tried to find a rental shop but no luck. Plus I'll need it for several
>other projects as well.
>
>Thank you
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>RV7A
>CFZQX
>Wiring
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: VM Fuel Flow Sender needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
> My Vision Microsystems P/N 3010019 fuel flow sender (for O-360-A1A
carbureted
> use)has just been declared DOA by VM. It had been intermittent for the
last
> 18 mos but, to quote VM every time I voiced the possibility (at OSH) that
> their sender could be bogus, "there must be something wrong in the rest of
> your wiring, these things never go bad". Ha.
>
FWIW, my VM fuel flow sender was also intermittent from first use. I
finally replaced it after about 2 years and the new one is solid. I spoke
with an RV-8 pilot this winter that had exactly the same problem. I spoke
with a Glastar pilot last year with exactly the same problem.
And yes, they are big bucks to replace.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV9-A QB fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> At 02:59 PM 3/6/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
> >
> >I must have missed something. Do you mean that you feel that you get more
> >experience building a quick build than building a slow build?
>
> I believe that it was one of Van's engineers who pointed this out to
> me. Having never built a slow build I am not certain. One thing I am
> fairly sure of is that I would not have had the patience to do the
> slow. It is an awesome endeavor.
>
> The QB'er forms bulkhead and ribs. He makes one of the arm rests by
> shaping flat aluminum.
You mean you actually did that? I think I tried to make one end rib and
forthwith ordered all those parts from Van's. My guess is that I am in the
majority on that.
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Steve said: Can someone give me a source to buy a large crimping tool for 6
and 8 AWG ring terminals (not insulated)?
I have had good luck with larger terminal crimping by using my nicropress tool.
YMMV.
Vince
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: SportAir RV workshop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Anthony" <bruce.anthony@holidaycompanies.com>
Hi Paul,
Took the EAA sheet metal workshop last November before starting on my 9A. I highly
recommend this type of course to someone with little or no sheet metal experience
like me. I thought the most useful part of the course was the wing section
project. We did not have enough time to complete the project, but we learned
all the basic techniques. We had one very good instructor for about a
dozen people. If you forget to ask any questions - well there's no shortage of
help on the list or your local RV Wing/EAA chapter. I would concentrate on
learning good technique. The instructor will demonstrate, but don't hesitate
to have him/her watch you do it and make suggestions. The book stuff you can
read at your leisure, but you're really buying the hands on experience. Also,
make sure you understand how good your work must be to be acceptable. The perfection
thing will drive you nuts if you let it.
One other thought: don't wait to long to get into a project - either yours or
someone else. Your new skills will fade after awhile.
Bruce K. Anthony
RV-9A empennage
Rosemount, MN
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: VM Fuel Flow Sender needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I was told they cost more VM because they only buy the ones that are
manually adjusted/ set for better accuracy.
At 01:18 AM 3/7/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>My Vision Microsystems P/N 3010019 fuel flow sender (for O-360-A1A carbureted
>use)has just been declared DOA by VM. It had been intermittent for the last
>18 mos but, to quote VM every time I voiced the possibility (at OSH) that
>their sender could be bogus, "there must be something wrong in the rest of
>your wiring, these things never go bad". Ha.
>
>In the odd chance any lister has a new one for sale I would like to be made
>aware. My understanding is that they cost dearly from VM. Any help here?
>
>TIA
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV9-A QB fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
Hal:
kempthornes wrote:
> One thing I am
> fairly sure of is that I would not have had the patience to do the
> slow. It is an awesome endeavor.
>
Patience and time commitment are important issues, and in my case a QB option
was the difference between building and not building. Aside from the added
cost, which I think was a bargain, it was the time savings alone that put me in
the builder's column. OK, maybe less of a builder than someone with the full
kit, but I got plenty of challenge, plenty of experience, plenty of fun and
most important, I am now flying an airplane rather than still thinking about
one. If there is something I missed out on by buying the QB, it certainly does
not strike me as any real loss when I fly across the Golden Gate or the
Colorado Rockies and look down on all that majesty.
Bill Marvel
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
Message 11
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| Subject: | Cell phone wiring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Im trying to figure out how to wire my Nokia 6100 series to my audio panel for
"ground use" only. I have the appollo 10ms panel. Has anyone done this?
tia
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a
Message 12
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| Subject: | Crimp versus Solder (long) (was: crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>Why not solder them? Bob Nuckolls has a How-To on the web - I
>soldered mine and it wasn't difficult at all.
The Navy did a reliability study on soldering versus crimping.
Crimping is much more reliable if done correctly, especially in a
high-vibration environment (like an airplane.) This is because the solder
tends to wick up the stranded conductor. This creates a stress
concentration at the point where the solder stops. the wire tends to
fatigue and break at that point. The crimped conductor does not have this
abrupt stress concentration point, but a more gradual change in stiffness
as the wire emerges from the crimp sleeve.
Part of the Navy study set a "pull test" standard for determining
if the crimp was properly made. They would pull on the conductor a
specified amount for the wire gage. If it did not pull free of the terminal
at the specified load, the crimp was considered properly made.
We electric vehicle types are really into this sort of stuff.
I have successfully made my own crimping tools to save a few
bucks, however, if you are crimping a lot of different sizes, you are
probably better off buying the commercial tool with its multitude of jaws.
Beware of the crimp tool that comes packaged with an assortment of
terminals at you local Radio Shack or auto parts store. These tools
typically are of low quality and make crimps that will not pass the pull
test and have very low reliability.
If you want to make your own tool, carefully measure the dies in a
high-quality commercial tool or carefully measure the dimensions of the
crimped region of a terminal that has been crimped with a high-quality
commercial tool. Make your own die based on the dimensions that you measured.
I made a 2/0 crimper from a 13 mm impact socket and a pair of flea
market bolt cutters. I ground a hole in the jaws, welded in the socket and
then cut it in two. I then chamfered the edges and adjusted the bolt cutter
until it made perfect hex crimps.
If you have made the crimp perfectly, the wire should break before
it pulls out of the crimp. The Navy test allows it to pull out before the
breaking point of the wire. Basically, the wire should cold weld to the
terminal, but not be reduced significantly in cross-section. Makes sense if
you think about it.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I thought I could borrow a crimper from an electrical contractor,-he was
amused and said "nobody crimps big terminals these days, thick wires are
connected using Allen head set-screws in the terminals" He's right.-Looking
into my house service panel, there they are, all screwed in!
So I built my own crimper for the two gauges I have, #4 for starter wiring,
engine grounding and #8 for alternator and main bus connections. I used two
brass bocks with "U" shaped slots cut so that the stub of the terminal
fits into it, and with enough "meat" below the "U" slot to allow a blind
tapped 10-32 hole right below the bottom of the "U". Each these two blocks
(the anvils) are screwed-in to the yoke of the squeezer using a 10-32 screw.
I ground the heads of two AN-3 bolts to a "V" shape (with a slightly
rounded point to prevent cutting into the terminal), one for the #8 and one
for the #4 sizes. They are inserted into the rivet-squeezer piston and
setting the terminal in the anvil, pump squeezer and "Voil"!, a nicely
crimped terminal (assuming you had inserted the wire into the terminal in
the first place, of course). Works Great!!
Cheers!! ------Henry Hore
PS, I saw a post that recommended soldering the wire to the terminal. I
DON'T recommend that! Solder will wick up the wire and solidify it making it
vulnerable to break off. Ask Ken Scott,- he described that scenario in his
installation in an early RVator.-----H. H.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
On Friday 07 March 2003 04:02, Kevin Horton wrote:
I bought size ' 2-ought', (large welding cable) for ground cable in my Amateur
Radio station. I also bought a lug to fit the cable. I asked the shop man if
he could crimp this connection. It was done in a few seconds with a smack of
the hammer. In other words, try a welding sales shop.
Arthur
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
> At 8:33 PM -0500 6/3/03, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
> >
> >Can someone give me a source to buy a large crimping tool for 6
> >and 8 AWG ring terminals (not insulated)?
> >
> >I tried to find a rental shop but no luck. Plus I'll need it for several
> >other projects as well.
> >
> >Thank you
> >
> >Steve Hurlbut
> >RV7A
> >CFZQX
> >Wiring
>
> Why not solder them? Bob Nuckolls has a How-To on the web - I
> soldered mine and it wasn't difficult at all.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV9-A QB fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Bill Marvel wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
>
> Hal:
>
> kempthornes wrote:
>
>
>> One thing I am
>>fairly sure of is that I would not have had the patience to do the
>>slow. It is an awesome endeavor.
>>
>
>
> Patience and time commitment are important issues, and in my case a QB option
> was the difference between building and not building. Aside from the added
> cost, which I think was a bargain, it was the time savings alone that put me
in
> the builder's column. OK, maybe less of a builder than someone with the full
> kit, but I got plenty of challenge, plenty of experience, plenty of fun and
> most important, I am now flying an airplane rather than still thinking about
> one. If there is something I missed out on by buying the QB, it certainly does
> not strike me as any real loss when I fly across the Golden Gate or the
> Colorado Rockies and look down on all that majesty.
>
> Bill Marvel
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> --
True stuff Bill, but I found out that I built my old slow build RV-6
faster than most people build their QB kits. Having built the # 2
customer built RV-6, I was flying it 20 months from the day I started
building. Close to half of that time was waiting for kits because the
RV-6 kit was not even completed by Van at that time. I realize most
people probably can not dedicate the amount of time I did to building
but I still worked 10 hours days (4 days x 10hrs) at a regular job. It
was a lot of long weekends and long evenings that did it. Either way QB
or slow build, there is a lot of work and each well fit the fun and
education requirements. Each one well draw blood, teach you how to cuss
if you don't already and in the end, as you said, looking down flying
around the country it was all worth it.
Jerry (coming up on 14 years flying my RV-6) Springer
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: For Sale (was:Altimeter heads up) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
DO NOT ARCHIVE
History says that all the wars that France has been involved in, they have
not won a single one! EXCEPT ONE!! But then that one was amongst themselves
at a place called the BASTILLE!
Message 17
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| Subject: | RV7 Wing conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Kiekover" <stneki@hotmail.com>
I am working on my wing and plan on installing conduit for wiring. Can
strobe hi voltage and com-nav cable be installed in same conduit? If not
what alternatives are there. Thanks Steve
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RV9-A QB fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 06:43 AM 3/7/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
> > The QB'er forms bulkhead and ribs. He makes one of the arm rests by
> > shaping flat aluminum.
>
>You mean you actually did that? I think I tried to make one end rib and
>forthwith ordered all those parts from Van's.
I wouldn't say that where the friendlies might hear it!!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 09:12 AM 3/7/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
> The Navy did a reliability study on soldering versus crimping.
Pop the cover off your avionics - all soldered. Thousands of solder joints.
All securely anchored.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 09:27 AM 3/7/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
>
>On Friday 07 March 2003 04:02, Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>I bought size ' 2-ought', (large welding cable) for ground cable in my
>Amateur
>Radio station. I also bought a lug to fit the cable. I asked the shop man if
>he could crimp this connection. It was done in a few seconds with a smack of
>the hammer. In other words, try a welding sales shop.
Hammer crimpers tend to make pretty low quality connections. The
"bolt cutter" or ratchet style make much, much more consistent and reliable
crimps. The hammer crimper tools do not properly swage the sleeve onto the
wire, but merely put a big dent in the sleeve. Only a fraction of the
strands on the cable are compacted. You can test this for yourself by
cutting the cable about 3 inches away from the sleeve. You can easily pluck
strands out of the sleeve with your fingers.
While it is very possible to make acceptable crimps with just a
hammer, the quality control is difficult if not impossible. Using a hammer
and anvil to make the crimp can actually result in better connections than
using the hammer crimper device. They are typically not as pretty, but if
done correctly, the connection can be almost as good as a hex crimp.
Would you feel comfortable swaging the ends on your control cables
with a hammer? If not, then get (or build) the proper tool for your
electrical terminals. :-)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RV9-A QB fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
Jerry Springer wrote:
(snip)
Having built the # 2
> customer built RV-6, I was flying it 20 months from the day I started
> building. Close to half of that time was waiting for kits because the
> RV-6 kit was not even completed by Van at that time. I realize most
> people probably can not dedicate the amount of time I did to building
> but I still worked 10 hours days (4 days x 10hrs) at a regular job. It
> was a lot of long weekends and long evenings that did it.
>
This must be some sort of record for building while working full time. I did my
-8A
QB in 16 months from delivery of boxes to first flight and worked almost full time
on
it. My hat's off to you, Jerry. That is an accomplishment.
Bill Marvel
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
Message 22
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| Subject: | crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I use the Nicopress tool.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve J Hurlbut
Subject: RV-List: crimping big terminals
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Can someone give me a source to buy a large crimping tool for 6
and 8 AWG ring terminals (not insulated)?
I tried to find a rental shop but no luck. Plus I'll need it for several
other projects as well.
Thank you
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
CFZQX
Wiring
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: VM Fuel Flow Sender needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Compressed air will be too much pressure and could damage the
bearings. Just put it up to your mouth and blow gently at first. You
should easily be able to hear the rotor spinning inside. If you can't hear
it, then its not spinning. If you can hear it spinning, then a blocked
rotor isn't the problem.
FloScan Instrument Co., Inc.
3016 N.E. Blakeley Street
Seattle, Washington 98105 USA
Tel: (206) 524-6625
Fax: (206) 523-4961
Joe Dydasco Sales Manager ext 316
Ray Van Winkle Sales Admin. ext 306
Ed Sanford Service Manager ext 302
Jon Zimmerman Tech Support ext 309
At 12:20 AM 3/7/2003 Friday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 3/6/2003 11:04:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>dralle@matronics.com writes:
>
> > You might consider calling FloScan and seeing about sending it in for
> > "repair". They stand behind their transducers pretty well, and if its
> > a totally blocked rotor, they might very well send you a replacement.
> >
>
>Matt-
>
>Thanks for the inside info. I'll try the blowout method.
>
>Can I use compressed air to back flush it or will that hurt it?
>
>Do you have a phone number and contact person for FloScan?
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: For Sale (was:Altimeter heads up) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner@wans.net>
Come on now everybody. There ACTUALLY IS something good that we would not
have without France, namely French Wine & French Bread.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: For Sale (was:Altimeter heads up)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> History says that all the wars that France has been involved in, they have
> not won a single one! EXCEPT ONE!! But then that one was amongst
themselves
> at a place called the BASTILLE!
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV9-A QB fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I am right in there. My slow build 8a should be flying in May for its first
flight, and this includes painting which I am doing now. First flight in May, 18
months. This is with a full time job and wife.............. Well I think I
have a wife, I saw whats here name a few months ago. Just kidding!!!!! I am
still happily married.
At 09:41 AM 3/7/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
>
>Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>(snip)
>
>Having built the # 2
>
>> customer built RV-6, I was flying it 20 months from the day I started
>> building. Close to half of that time was waiting for kits because the
>> RV-6 kit was not even completed by Van at that time. I realize most
>> people probably can not dedicate the amount of time I did to building
>> but I still worked 10 hours days (4 days x 10hrs) at a regular job. It
>> was a lot of long weekends and long evenings that did it.
>>
>
>This must be some sort of record for building while working full time. I
>did my -8A
>QB in 16 months from delivery of boxes to first flight and worked almost
>full time on
>it. My hat's off to you, Jerry. That is an accomplishment.
>
>Bill Marvel
>
>Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
>P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
>San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
>
>One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint on canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher J Fortin <cjfortin@juno.com>
Just a heads up. Used copier toner also will contain small amounts of the
developer base, which is magnetic. So you may have stray fields to
contend with.
Chris
--> RV-List message posted by: "Garth Shearing" <garth@islandnet.com>
Copier toner also works really well as a black pigment for epoxy resin.
Some of this is thrown out every time a toner bottle is replaced.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
>
> I bought a small bottle of black pigment from West Marine to mix with
the
> epoxy resin. Works great. Brush a coat onto the plexi and let it cure
for
> a short while before the first fiberglass lay up. Easier than paint
and
> looks very professional.
>
> Ken Harrill
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
On Friday 07 March 2003 09:43, Bill Dube wrote:
I shouled have said 'smacked the crimping tool with the hammer' In this case,
the ground wire does not suffer constant vibration as when flying.
Arthur
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
> At 09:27 AM 3/7/2003, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
> >
> >On Friday 07 March 2003 04:02, Kevin Horton wrote:
> >
> >I bought size ' 2-ought', (large welding cable) for ground cable in my
> >Amateur
> >Radio station. I also bought a lug to fit the cable. I asked the shop man
> > if he could crimp this connection. It was done in a few seconds with a
> > smack of the hammer. In other words, try a welding sales shop.
>
> Hammer crimpers tend to make pretty low quality connections. The
> "bolt cutter" or ratchet style make much, much more consistent and reliable
> crimps. The hammer crimper tools do not properly swage the sleeve onto the
> wire, but merely put a big dent in the sleeve. Only a fraction of the
> strands on the cable are compacted. You can test this for yourself by
> cutting the cable about 3 inches away from the sleeve. You can easily pluck
> strands out of the sleeve with your fingers.
>
> While it is very possible to make acceptable crimps with just a
> hammer, the quality control is difficult if not impossible. Using a hammer
> and anvil to make the crimp can actually result in better connections than
> using the hammer crimper device. They are typically not as pretty, but if
> done correctly, the connection can be almost as good as a hex crimp.
>
> Would you feel comfortable swaging the ends on your control cables
> with a hammer? If not, then get (or build) the proper tool for your
> electrical terminals. :-)
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
kempthornes wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>>
>> The Navy did a reliability study on soldering versus crimping.
>
> Pop the cover off your avionics - all soldered. Thousands of solder joints.
> All securely anchored.
The difference is that 95% of the components in your avionics are
teeny-tiny and soldered to the same board that they're sitting on. They
don't connect anywhere else, and don't vibrate around relative to the
board they're soldered to when the plane is moving. For all intents and
purposes, you can consider them a rigid structure.
The wires that hang off the back of your avionics, on the other hand,
can all move relative to the avionics due to vibration from the engine
(if nothing else... the stresses of pulling, snagging, bending, etc. as
you try to access other components nearby will also move these joints).
The wire itself may be able to handle this motion, but the solder
joint won't take it. A crimped joint will.
-RB4
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
On Friday 07 March 2003 09:40, kempthornes wrote:
Gentlemen,
Go to the Subaru page 'Subaruaircraft.com' of Jan Eggenfellner (sp).The
installation guide shows (in wiring section) the recommended way to do all
this. With pictures, "crimp it, solder it, shrink it"
A wonderful engine installation guide courtesy of Mr. Gary Newsted in
co-operation with Eggenfellner Aircraft.
Thanks guys!
Arthur Nation
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> At 09:12 AM 3/7/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
> >
> > The Navy did a reliability study on soldering versus crimping.
>
> Pop the cover off your avionics - all soldered. Thousands of solder
> joints. All securely anchored.
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
All my connections in my RV-4 were crimped. Nothing to burn myself with
that way. Plus it's much faster to crimp than solder, no power needed, you
have enough hands to hold the work and the tools, etc.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Prior [mailto:rv7@b4.ca]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals)
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
kempthornes wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>>
>> The Navy did a reliability study on soldering versus crimping.
>
> Pop the cover off your avionics - all soldered. Thousands of solder
joints.
> All securely anchored.
The difference is that 95% of the components in your avionics are
teeny-tiny and soldered to the same board that they're sitting on. They
don't connect anywhere else, and don't vibrate around relative to the
board they're soldered to when the plane is moving. For all intents and
purposes, you can consider them a rigid structure.
The wires that hang off the back of your avionics, on the other hand,
can all move relative to the avionics due to vibration from the engine
(if nothing else... the stresses of pulling, snagging, bending, etc. as
you try to access other components nearby will also move these joints).
The wire itself may be able to handle this motion, but the solder
joint won't take it. A crimped joint will.
-RB4
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: For Sale (was:Altimeter heads up) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
On Friday 07 March 2003 10:39, Konrad Werner wrote:
What about the 'Statue of Liberty'.
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner@wans.net>
>
> Come on now everybody. There ACTUALLY IS something good that we would not
> have without France, namely French Wine & French Bread.
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: For Sale (was:Altimeter heads up)
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
>
> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> > History says that all the wars that France has been involved in, they
> > have not won a single one! EXCEPT ONE!! But then that one was amongst
>
> themselves
>
> > at a place called the BASTILLE!
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 12:13 PM 3/7/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
>
>On Friday 07 March 2003 09:40, kempthornes wrote:
>Gentlemen,
>Go to the Subaru page 'Subaruaircraft.com' of Jan Eggenfellner (sp).The
>installation guide shows (in wiring section) the recommended way to do all
>this. With pictures, "crimp it, solder it, shrink it"
This identical debate has gone on in the electric vehicle
community for awhile. You can look it up in the archives of the electric
vehicle discussion list. (I even did high-current resistance tests on
crimped versus soldered connections. It turns out they have the same
conductivity.)
The consensus is; crimps are better than solder for wiring subject
to movement and/or vibration. Solder has a slight edge in connections not
subject to movement or vibration. This is what the Navy study concluded.
You can't effectively argue with actual test data, (although some folks
always will.)
You must keep in mind that every harness and long cable on an
airplane is subjected to movement and vibration. When the airplane
maneuvers the cables move slightly. The engine vibration and rough air
really shake the cables around. Don't forget thermal contraction and
expansion as the cables heat and cool.
I suppose I should dig back into the EV discussion list archives
to find the reference to the Navy study. However, I already know what it
says. :-)
http://www.crest.org/discussiongroups/index.html
I think it would be around 1997.
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | F-639-640 floor skins & F-604 attach |
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello IM getting ready to drill the forward F-639 & 640 seat floor skins on.
Were the floor skins attach to the f-604 bulked with the K-1000-08 nutplates
there seems to be very limited edge distance not on the f-604 flange but on
the flanges on the seat ribs under the 604 bulked flange. Has any one else
had this problem. I could just rivet the seat ribs to the f-604 and move the
nutplates over but they say in the instructions that the 639& 640 are
structural and not to alter. Any feed back would be helpful thanks.
Bill Higgins
RV-6
Pembroke Ma
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder (long) (was: crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
I personally conducted a trial about 15 years ago to determine whether
to crimp or solder. In every case the crimp gave a slightly lower
resistance across the connection. We crimped.
There are other considerations and soldering is acceptable in most
cases. I would be reluctant to solder joints which will be located in
the engine compartment.
Doug Gray
Bill Dube wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>
>>Why not solder them? Bob Nuckolls has a How-To on the web - I
>>soldered mine and it wasn't difficult at all.
>
>
> The Navy did a reliability study on soldering versus crimping.
> Crimping is much more reliable if done correctly, especially in a
> high-vibration environment (like an airplane.) This is because the solder
> tends to wick up the stranded conductor. This creates a stress
> concentration at the point where the solder stops. the wire tends to
> fatigue and break at that point. The crimped conductor does not have this
> abrupt stress concentration point, but a more gradual change in stiffness
> as the wire emerges from the crimp sleeve.
>
> Part of the Navy study set a "pull test" standard for determining
> if the crimp was properly made. They would pull on the conductor a
> specified amount for the wire gage. If it did not pull free of the terminal
> at the specified load, the crimp was considered properly made.
>
> We electric vehicle types are really into this sort of stuff.
>
> I have successfully made my own crimping tools to save a few
> bucks, however, if you are crimping a lot of different sizes, you are
> probably better off buying the commercial tool with its multitude of jaws.
> Beware of the crimp tool that comes packaged with an assortment of
> terminals at you local Radio Shack or auto parts store. These tools
> typically are of low quality and make crimps that will not pass the pull
> test and have very low reliability.
>
> If you want to make your own tool, carefully measure the dies in a
> high-quality commercial tool or carefully measure the dimensions of the
> crimped region of a terminal that has been crimped with a high-quality
> commercial tool. Make your own die based on the dimensions that you measured.
>
> I made a 2/0 crimper from a 13 mm impact socket and a pair of flea
> market bolt cutters. I ground a hole in the jaws, welded in the socket and
> then cut it in two. I then chamfered the edges and adjusted the bolt cutter
> until it made perfect hex crimps.
>
> If you have made the crimp perfectly, the wire should break before
> it pulls out of the crimp. The Navy test allows it to pull out before the
> breaking point of the wire. Basically, the wire should cold weld to the
> terminal, but not be reduced significantly in cross-section. Makes sense if
> you think about it.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
You'll get a better electrical connection with solder and, with proper soldering
technique and good strain relief practices a solder connection will be just as
good, or better than a crimp. Note that I said "proper soldering technique". Not
all solder joints are equal and if you don't know what you are doing then a crimp
is definitely better. But, which ever method you use to connect the wire, if it
isn't restrained from flopping around it's going to give trouble eventually.
I won't crimp a battery cable because at best it's not a 100% electrical
connection and it's only going to get worse with age and corrosion and a little
bit of resistance when you're drawing starter current will generate heat and
promote more corrosion. BUT, in either case, the wire must be properly supported.
Dave RV6, So. Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Rob Prior wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> kempthornes wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
> >>
> >> The Navy did a reliability study on soldering versus crimping.
> >
> > Pop the cover off your avionics - all soldered. Thousands of solder joints.
> > All securely anchored.
>
> The difference is that 95% of the components in your avionics are
> teeny-tiny and soldered to the same board that they're sitting on. They
> don't connect anywhere else, and don't vibrate around relative to the
> board they're soldered to when the plane is moving. For all intents and
> purposes, you can consider them a rigid structure.
>
> The wires that hang off the back of your avionics, on the other hand,
> can all move relative to the avionics due to vibration from the engine
> (if nothing else... the stresses of pulling, snagging, bending, etc. as
> you try to access other components nearby will also move these joints).
> The wire itself may be able to handle this motion, but the solder
> joint won't take it. A crimped joint will.
>
> -RB4
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | RV6A top fuselage skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
List:
I am in the process of fitting/drillling my top fuselage skins and am concerned
about the overlap area where the rear and aft top skins meet. In going to OSH
and looking at this area on completed airplanes, it seems that it has been a
troublesome spot to not get gaps between these skins. Where they are riveted
together looks fine, but then between rivets the aft skin buldges out and leaves
a gap between it and the rear skin until the next rivet. I have seen several
RV's with this condition and would like to prevent it if possible.
With my rear skin drilled and clecoed in place, my aft skin seems to make good
tight contact at bulkhead F607, but the excess skin that extends aft of the bulkhead
has a small gap to it. I can stick my flexible metal rule between the
skins until it reaches the area of the bulkhead.
I realize that once I trim the excess, I shouldn't have a problem, but I am spooked
after seeing problems in this area on completed airplanes.
Any suggestions, words of encouragement, kicks in my butt to just drill the danged
thang??!
Thanks
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A fuse
Peshtigo, WI
Message 37
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| Subject: | Galls Flasher FS039 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Q:
Does anyone have actual experience with this flasher in an RV ?
Istead of hard wiring the flasher to the power and using the built-in switch
to control the lights, can you leave the built-in switch permanently on, and
install a switch on the instrument panel to control the power TO the unit
with the same functionality ?
Thanks,
Amit.
PS:
http://www.galls.com/shop/viewProductDetail.jsp?item=FS039
Message 38
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| Subject: | RV6A top fuselage skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Be sure to fit them up with the plastic protective skins removed, the
layers add up and will create gaps (ask me how I know).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 264 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> I am in the process of fitting/drillling my top fuselage
> skins and am concerned about the overlap area where the rear
> and aft top skins meet. In going to OSH and looking at this
> area on completed airplanes, it seems that it has been a
> troublesome spot to not get gaps between these skins. Where
> they are riveted together looks fine, but then between rivets
> the aft skin buldges out and leaves a gap between it and the
> rear skin until the next rivet. I have seen several RV's
> with this condition and would like to prevent it if possible.
>
> With my rear skin drilled and clecoed in place, my aft skin
> seems to make good tight contact at bulkhead F607, but the
> excess skin that extends aft of the bulkhead has a small gap
> to it. I can stick my flexible metal rule between the skins
> until it reaches the area of the bulkhead.
>
> I realize that once I trim the excess, I shouldn't have a
> problem, but I am spooked after seeing problems in this area
> on completed airplanes.
>
> Any suggestions, words of encouragement, kicks in my butt to
> just drill the danged thang??!
>
> Thanks
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A fuse
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Wing conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
Steve,
I'm working on the same let us know what kind of responses you get offline.
BTW.... I talked Vans about their wiring harness kit and the Waylon lighting
system. Both of these have pretty detail instructions for wiring the basics.
So they tell me. :-)
Pretty pricy though.
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Kiekover" <stneki@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 Wing conduit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Kiekover" <stneki@hotmail.com>
>
>
> I am working on my wing and plan on installing conduit for wiring. Can
> strobe hi voltage and com-nav cable be installed in same conduit? If not
> what alternatives are there. Thanks Steve
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: RV6A top fuselage skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Thanks Alex. Copy that and will comply!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage
Peshtigo, WI
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6A top fuselage skins
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> Be sure to fit them up with the plastic protective skins removed, the
> layers add up and will create gaps (ask me how I know).
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 264 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
> > I am in the process of fitting/drillling my top fuselage
> > skins and am concerned about the overlap area where the rear
> > and aft top skins meet. In going to OSH and looking at this
> > area on completed airplanes, it seems that it has been a
> > troublesome spot to not get gaps between these skins. Where
> > they are riveted together looks fine, but then between rivets
> > the aft skin buldges out and leaves a gap between it and the
> > rear skin until the next rivet. I have seen several RV's
> > with this condition and would like to prevent it if possible.
> >
> > With my rear skin drilled and clecoed in place, my aft skin
> > seems to make good tight contact at bulkhead F607, but the
> > excess skin that extends aft of the bulkhead has a small gap
> > to it. I can stick my flexible metal rule between the skins
> > until it reaches the area of the bulkhead.
> >
> > I realize that once I trim the excess, I shouldn't have a
> > problem, but I am spooked after seeing problems in this area
> > on completed airplanes.
> >
> > Any suggestions, words of encouragement, kicks in my butt to
> > just drill the danged thang??!
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jeff Orear
> > RV6A fuse
> > Peshtigo, WI
> >
> >
> > ==========
> > Matronics Forums.
> > ==========
> > List members.
> > ==========
> > ==========
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder(was:crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
I am currently involved with many of these same issues, including not
finding an adequate crimper for #8 ring terminals. One lister did suggest a
West Marine product but the one public review of its quality did not exactly
inspire confidence. I did have use of a crimper specifically designed for
use on the larger #2 and #4 wires though. It would be hard for me to
believe that any normal or even unreasonably abnormal forces could generate
enough strain to separate the wires from those terminal rings!
I am now fabricating the wiring harnesses for a VM-1000 engine
monitor and the specs call out both crimping AND soldering the several
dozens of small pin connectors that make up the harnesses.
Reading this thread got me to thinking, ( a dangerous thing).
Could this technique be applied to the much larger (#2, 4 and 8) ring
terminals as well? That is, crimp em first, then solder
them. Seems to me once crimped, the wicking issue with a solder
becomes somewhat academic. Just though I'd put that out there for
thought.
Rick Galati
Subject:
Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big
terminals)
From:
Dave Bristol (bj034@lafn.org )
Date:
Fri Mar 07 - 4:05
PM
-- RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol bj034@lafn.org
You'll get a better electrical connection with solder and, with proper soldering
technique and good strain relief practices a solder connection will be just as
good, or better than a crimp.....snip.......I won't crimp a battery cable becauseat
best it's not a 100% electrical connection and it's only going to get worse
with age and corrosion and a littlebit of resistance when you're drawing starter
current will generate heat and
promote more corrosion. BUT, in either case, the wire must be properly supported.
Dave RV6, So. Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: F-639-640 floor skins & F-604 attach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Welcome to the edge distance problem on quite a few locations on Van's
placement of nut -plates! you'll find there are many locations where this
occurs! The solution is to buy a good quantity of single leg MS21051-L08 nut
plates to have on hand. (they used to call them "single lug" nut-plates).
The two mounting #40 holes are on one side. Although this was brought to the
attention of Van's in 1997 (by me and no doubt many others), there was no
change in plans.- A question of large quantity discount in their stocking,
no doubt! Same as 8-32 screws are all 1/2" long where 3/8" could be used in
a lot of places!
Cheers!!--------Henry Hore
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: RV6A top fuselage skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Jeff,
With the two top skins off and the bulkheads suitably supported, run a
straight edge or a string line along the top center off the four turtle deck
ribs. Look for either the center ribs being too high or too low. Also check
and adjust the flanges for a straight fit to the edge of the straight
edge/string. Now move the straight edge over one rivet station at a time and
check again. do this down both sides from the top center to the longeron
rivet stations. You will most likely find that some areas will be a bit high
and some low. Using shims spot riveted in the low places and carefully
adjusting the high flange areas downward should bring everything in line for
a good skin fit.
If the F-607 rib is way too high so that f-608 flanges are not actually
getting good square contact with the middle of the rear skin you will have
to consider adjusting the height of one or more center ribs. this sounds
drastic but in fact it is quite easy to accomplish. it involves cutting the
rib off down near the longeron area, trimming to fit and re riveting it to
fit using some scrap stock to bridge the cut areas.
I ran into this with one of the two center ribs F-607 or f-608 but have
forgotten which one it was.
There is a edge rolling tool ( Avery Tools page 54 in their 2002 catalog)
that can be used to put an ever so slight turn down along the rear edge of
the "aft" skin so as to enhance the after rivet fit. use this very lightly
to get a good fit without an obvious crease line being left.
Happy fitting,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6A top fuselage skins
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> List:
>
> I am in the process of fitting/drillling my top fuselage skins and am
concerned about the overlap area where the rear and aft top skins meet. In
going to OSH and looking at this area on completed airplanes, it seems that
it has been a troublesome spot to not get gaps between these skins. Where
they are riveted together looks fine, but then between rivets the aft skin
buldges out and leaves a gap between it and the rear skin until the next
rivet. I have seen several RV's with this condition and would like to
prevent it if possible.
>
> With my rear skin drilled and clecoed in place, my aft skin seems to make
good tight contact at bulkhead F607, but the excess skin that extends aft of
the bulkhead has a small gap to it. I can stick my flexible metal rule
between the skins until it reaches the area of the bulkhead.
>
> I realize that once I trim the excess, I shouldn't have a problem, but I
am spooked after seeing problems in this area on completed airplanes.
>
> Any suggestions, words of encouragement, kicks in my butt to just drill
the danged thang??!
>
> Thanks
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A fuse
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder(was:crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
The wicking problem is not negated by crimping the pin. The solder can still flow
up the wire under the insulation and cause the wire to break if it's moved
too much. If the pin has a good strain relief and it's properly crimped (many
crimpers don't crimp the strain relief
portion of the pin at all ) then good soldering technique will solve the wicking
problem. By good technique I mean using a hot enough iron and being quick.
Most bad solder joints are caused by keeping the heat on the pin too long which
allows the heat and therefore the
solder to flow up the wire.
BTW, I don't have any problem with crimping small, low current wires. Crimping
usually works just fine but I still like to solder them just to make sure -- I've
seen a lot of bad crimps that looked just fine.
Dave RV6 So.Cal
EAA Tech Counselor
Rick Galati wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
>
> I am currently involved with many of these same issues, including not
> finding an adequate crimper for #8 ring terminals. One lister did suggest a
> West Marine product but the one public review of its quality did not exactly
> inspire confidence. I did have use of a crimper specifically designed for
> use on the larger #2 and #4 wires though. It would be hard for me to
> believe that any normal or even unreasonably abnormal forces could generate
> enough strain to separate the wires from those terminal rings!
>
> I am now fabricating the wiring harnesses for a VM-1000 engine
> monitor and the specs call out both crimping AND soldering the several
> dozens of small pin connectors that make up the harnesses.
> Reading this thread got me to thinking, ( a dangerous thing).
> Could this technique be applied to the much larger (#2, 4 and 8) ring
> terminals as well? That is, crimp em first, then solder
> them. Seems to me once crimped, the wicking issue with a solder
> becomes somewhat academic. Just though I'd put that out there for
> thought.
>
> Rick Galati
>
> Subject:
>
> Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big
> terminals)
>
> From:
>
> Dave Bristol (bj034@lafn.org )
>
> Date:
>
> Fri Mar 07 - 4:05
> PM
> -- RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol bj034@lafn.org
>
> You'll get a better electrical connection with solder and, with proper soldering
> technique and good strain relief practices a solder connection will be just as
> good, or better than a crimp.....snip.......I won't crimp a battery cable becauseat
best it's not a 100% electrical connection and it's only going to get worse
with age and corrosion and a littlebit of resistance when you're drawing
starter current will generate heat and
> promote more corrosion. BUT, in either case, the wire must be properly supported.
>
> Dave RV6, So. Cal
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
> --- Rick Galati
>
> --- rick07x@earthlink.net
>
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
I know one thing slow builders do that QBs don't, they drill holes. ;{)
do not archive
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/7/2003 9:40:10 AM Pacific Standard Time,
kempthornes@earthlink.net writes:
> Pop the cover off your avionics - all soldered. Thousands of solder joints.
> All securely anchored.
1. It has long been known that a PROPER gas tight crimped joint is far more
reliable that a properly soldered joint. The figures of merit used in
calculating MTBF on all military hardware bear this out.
2. Not mentioned so far is that only multistranded wires can be properly
crimped. A proper crimp will cold flow the strands together with the
terminal under a high pressure. This requires the manufacturer's recommended
tooling (and not that piece of sh** thing that Radio Shack sells for $10).
Good tools often cost $50-$100 each so see if you have an electronics guru in
your chapter and borrow the tools he uses at work. Hal's observation that
all avionics internal electrical joints are soldered is quite true. All
solid (single strand) wire leads must be soldered or thermocompression
bonded (it's so hard to get circuit boards and integrated circuit dies in the
crimpers you know).
3. Another thing not mentioned is that some wires (thermocouple and nichrome
wires for instance) will not accept normal low temperature tin-lead solders,
so you better know what you are trying to solder.
Therefore, if it is a stranded wire connection and crimping is an option
(configuration wise), do it with the right tool and it will be the most
reliable. If all else fails or you don't have the right tool, solder it if
it will take solder (inspect under magnification to see that solder wetting
has occurred).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
A terminal connection requires two things, a good mechanical connection
and a good electrical connection. Solder alone does not make a good
mechanical connection! I brought my cables to a battery supply store and
they crimped them for free.
Wayne
RV-8A
> I bought size ' 2-ought', (large welding cable) for ground cable in my
Amateur
> Radio station. I also bought a lug to fit the cable. I asked the shop man
if
> he could crimp this connection. It was done in a few seconds with a smack
of
> the hammer. In other words, try a welding sales shop.
> Arthur
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
> >
> > At 8:33 PM -0500 6/3/03, you wrote:
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
> > >
> > >Can someone give me a source to buy a large crimping tool for 6
> > >and 8 AWG ring terminals (not insulated)?
> > >
> > >I tried to find a rental shop but no luck. Plus I'll need it for
several
> > >other projects as well.
> > >
> > >Thank you
> > >
> > >Steve Hurlbut
> > >RV7A
> > >CFZQX
> > >Wiring
> >
> > Why not solder them? Bob Nuckolls has a How-To on the web - I
> > soldered mine and it wasn't difficult at all.
> >
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