Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:00 AM - Re: crimping big terminals (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks))
2. 01:57 AM - rental near Tampa (Arnold de Brie)
3. 04:24 AM - Re: rental near Tampa (Jim Norman)
4. 04:27 AM - Electrical Connectors (J. R. Dial)
5. 04:51 AM - Re: slow hand (Dana Overall)
6. 05:04 AM - Re: RV6A top fuselage skins (Mark Phillips)
7. 06:53 AM - >Re:slow hand (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
8. 06:54 AM - Lycoming Service Instructions needed (Charlie Kuss)
9. 07:26 AM - Airspeed Indicator ()
10. 07:48 AM - Anyone near Cambridge England?? (KAKlewin@aol.com)
11. 08:06 AM - A300 Handheld Nav/Com Tranceiver 4 Sale (eregensburg)
12. 08:26 AM - Re: crimping big terminals (John Huft)
13. 08:29 AM - Re: Airspeed Indicator (Bill Marvel)
14. 08:43 AM - Re: slow hand (kempthornes)
15. 08:45 AM - Re: Lycoming Service Instructions needed (Bill Marvel)
16. 11:00 AM - Re: Lycoming Service Instructions needed (Tracy Crook)
17. 01:03 PM - [ James E. Bean ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
18. 01:05 PM - [ John Harris ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
19. 03:00 PM - Re: Lycoming Service Instructions needed (WFACT01@aol.com)
20. 05:35 PM - Publications about Lyc 0320 (Richard Dudley)
21. 05:40 PM - Test of my system (John Starn)
22. 05:52 PM - Re: Re: Crimp versus Solder(was:crimping big terminals) (R. Craig Chipley)
23. 07:40 PM - Re: Lycoming Service Instructions needed (Michael McGee)
24. 10:31 PM - Re: crimping big terminals (JusCash@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
I crimped my #8 wire, and #2 cable terminals with my rivet squeezer. I
used a rat-tail file and a scotch-brite wheel to "concave" the faces of
some flat rivet sets. I think it would be great if Avery, or Cleaveland
aircraft tool offered crimping die sets for rivet squeezers for the
larger wires.
Chris Brooks
Message 2
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| Subject: | rental near Tampa |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie@interestate.nl>
Hello Listers
We're three Dutchmen, one RV8 and two Lancair pilots, coming to Tampa,
FL March 26.
We would like to do a bit of aerial sightseeing before Sun and Fun.
Can anyone advise about a good place to go for renting?
Meeting other RV (8) builders/pilots would be nice too
Sincerely
Arnold de Brie , RV8 PH-PWA
Benno Meijer, Lancair 360 PH-PWZ
Chris Heijning, Lancair 360 PH-LNC
Message 3
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| Subject: | rental near Tampa |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
The most 'pilot' friendly airport in the Tampa area is Zephyrhills airport
(ZPH). Its about 15 miles north of Lakeland (LAL). The amount of fun
little airplanes taking off and landing there on a typical day is more than
all the other airports around here combined. All of us at Vandenberg got to
ZPH for gas, its $125 CHEAPER per gallon, so we fly the 10 miles there for
all of our gas. Winter Haven airport is also very friendly. They are about
10 miles East of LAL
Also, I guess this is a good time to remind the list to avoid Vandenberg
airport during Sun-n-Fun (18 miles West of LAL). Besides having the highest
gas prices, they also have the highest tie-down fees and hangar fees. AND,
they are the A--holes that tried to get me and a few others evicted from the
airport because we were working on our airplanes and not using their
mechanics. Some listers will remember this big problem from back in
November... The EAA had to come to our rescue.
SO remember, VDF (Vandenberg) hates experimentals and wants our hangars for
the bigger biz planes.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Arnold de Brie
Subject: RV-List: rental near Tampa
--> RV-List message posted by: "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie@interestate.nl>
Hello Listers
We're three Dutchmen, one RV8 and two Lancair pilots, coming to Tampa,
FL March 26.
We would like to do a bit of aerial sightseeing before Sun and Fun.
Can anyone advise about a good place to go for renting?
Meeting other RV (8) builders/pilots would be nice too
Sincerely
Arnold de Brie , RV8 PH-PWA
Benno Meijer, Lancair 360 PH-PWZ
Chris Heijning, Lancair 360 PH-LNC
Message 4
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| Subject: | Electrical Connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
What is the make and model number of tool and connectors
that are specifically for aircraft? I want to use the type that is not
split like the cheap automotive variety. Also where is the best place to
order this stuff from? You can answer off list.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>I know one thing slow builders do that QBs don't, they drill holes. ;{)
>
>do not archive
Drilling, in and of itself, is becoming lost "art". I'm figuring up to
closing the wings on my 7, I haven't had to drill 30 holes:-) Lots of
reaming but drill.........nah. You know I would just about say you 3,4 & 6
guys should walk around with a halo for all that drilling to go along with
the Red S on the chest and red cape for dragging that
wheel:-)
I've told several people off the list, a high quality bunch of #30s & #40s
are a waste of money as all you are doing is reaming. I'm still hangin with
my statement that all we do anymore is more "assembling" than the QB gang.
Trust me, I had to BUILD my last plastic airplane.............just ask
Eberhart from Evansville:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>I know one thing slow builders do that QBs don't, they drill holes. ;{)
>
>do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV6A top fuselage skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Jeff-
I'm not too sure if this effects the gaps between the rivets you mention, but having
the skins pulled down as tightly as you dare when you drill should help.
But here's a "heads-up" if you haven't heard of this before- you need to be
VERY careful that the top outer corners of the bulkheads do not creep forward
from the tension of the skin. I used the "piece of plywood clamped to the flimsy
bulkhead" trick for the 606, and should have done so on the 607 & 608 as well.
Everything fits well at this point, (ready to rivet) with the
exception of that annoying little curve in the rivet line where those dang flimsy-arse
bulkhead corners scooted forward a little!!! 8-(
I also highly recommend back-riveting wherever you can comfortably do so, particularly
around the curved areas of the bulkheads.
FWIW from The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A, FWF & panel stuff...
Jeff Orear wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> List:
>
> I am in the process of fitting/drillling my top fuselage skins and am concerned
about the overlap area where the rear and aft top skins meet. In going to
OSH and looking at this area on completed airplanes, it seems that it has been
a troublesome spot to not get gaps between these skins. Where they are riveted
together looks fine, but then between rivets the aft skin buldges out and leaves
a gap between it and the rear skin until the next rivet. I have seen several
RV's with this condition and would like to prevent it if possible.
>
> With my rear skin drilled and clecoed in place, my aft skin seems to make good
tight contact at bulkhead F607, but the excess skin that extends aft of the
bulkhead has a small gap to it. I can stick my flexible metal rule between the
skins until it reaches the area of the bulkhead.
>
> I realize that once I trim the excess, I shouldn't have a problem, but I am spooked
after seeing problems in this area on completed airplanes.
>
> Any suggestions, words of encouragement, kicks in my butt to just drill the danged
thang??!
>
> Thanks
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A fuse
> Peshtigo, WI
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:slow hand |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I had to drill and ream all the holes in the main spars on our first RV-4
back in 1981-83 . I guess that dates me as an oldtimer. It was worth even
all that time/effort !!
Keep working you easy builders.
do not archive
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 8
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| Subject: | Lycoming Service Instructions needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
While doing research on obtaining all the ADs, SBs and SIs needed for overhauling
a Lycoming, there are several I have not been able to find "on line" or in
my Advantext CDs. Does anyone have a copy of the following documents that they
could email to me?
Lycoming Service Instruction 1011 Lifter Hydraulic units
" " " 1111 Crankshaft
" " " 1435 "
" " " 1142 Crankshaft counterweight
bushings
" " " 1143 " "
"
" " " 1267 Piston Wrist Pins
" " " 1340 " " "
" " " 1359 Connecting Rods
" " " 1183 " "
" " " 1479 Valve guide wear
Lycoming Service Bulletin 388B Valve guide wobble check
" " " 293B Valve sticking
Charlie Kuss
Message 9
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| Subject: | Airspeed Indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sgesele@yahoo.com>
Has anyone had any experiences with a United airspeed
indicator leaking internally? I'm just finishing up
installing a new instrument panel in my 6A and, when
bench testing the new static lines, the A/S is leaking
very bad. Without the A/S in the system, I can get
the altimeter, old VSI, and new micromonitor up to
20,000 feet with a hand operated vacuum pump. The
system holds this altitude with a loss of less than 50
feet over ten minutes. When I replace the old VSI
with the A/S and run the suction up to 200 kts, it
will initially leak down in excess of 10,000 fpm,
passing 70 kts, the leak is around 3000 fpm. I've
checked the fittings and am sure that the leak is
internal.
Is it worth it to try to take it apart, or should I
just order a new one from Van's.
Thanks in advance,
Scott Gesele
N506RV, 500+ hrs
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Message 10
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| Subject: | Anyone near Cambridge England?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin@aol.com
Just wondering if there are any builders near Cambridge england? Im stuck here
for a few days and wouldn't mind helping out on an RV for a few hours or looking
at a project (finished or not).
Cheers,
Kurt
Message 11
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| Subject: | A300 Handheld Nav/Com Tranceiver 4 Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: eregensburg <eregensburg@triad.rr.com>
My wife just bought me a new handheld tranceiver. I have a perfectly good
Sportys A300 Nav/Com handheld tranceiver I will sell for $100 (plus
shipping)I have used it as a back up for five years. It is great if you lose
radios (happened once to me) or to contact ground/clearance etc. If anyone
is interested email me or call me.
Ed Regensburg
N925RV 2000+hrs
336-275-3009
Message 12
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| Subject: | crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <aflyer@direcway.com>
Lots of crimpers and connectors at www.terminaltown.com
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Arthur Nation
Subject: Re: RV-List: crimping big terminals
--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
On Friday 07 March 2003 04:02, Kevin Horton wrote:
I bought size ' 2-ought', (large welding cable) for ground cable in my
Amateur
Radio station. I also bought a lug to fit the cable. I asked the shop man if
he could crimp this connection. It was done in a few seconds with a smack of
the hammer. In other words, try a welding sales shop.
Arthur
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
> At 8:33 PM -0500 6/3/03, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
> >
> >Can someone give me a source to buy a large crimping tool for 6
> >and 8 AWG ring terminals (not insulated)?
> >
> >I tried to find a rental shop but no luck. Plus I'll need it for several
> >other projects as well.
> >
> >Thank you
> >
> >Steve Hurlbut
> >RV7A
> >CFZQX
> >Wiring
>
> Why not solder them? Bob Nuckolls has a How-To on the web - I
> soldered mine and it wasn't difficult at all.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
Scott:
They're cheap. Either get yours overhauled or buy a new one. You've
probably got more important things to occupy your time.
Bill Marvel
DO NOT ARCHIVE
sgesele@yahoo.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <sgesele@yahoo.com>
>
> Has anyone had any experiences with a United airspeed
> indicator leaking internally? I'm just finishing up
> installing a new instrument panel in my 6A and, when
> bench testing the new static lines, the A/S is leaking
> very bad. Without the A/S in the system, I can get
> the altimeter, old VSI, and new micromonitor up to
> 20,000 feet with a hand operated vacuum pump. The
> system holds this altitude with a loss of less than 50
> feet over ten minutes. When I replace the old VSI
> with the A/S and run the suction up to 200 kts, it
> will initially leak down in excess of 10,000 fpm,
> passing 70 kts, the leak is around 3000 fpm. I've
> checked the fittings and am sure that the leak is
> internal.
>
> Is it worth it to try to take it apart, or should I
> just order a new one from Van's.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Scott Gesele
> N506RV, 500+ hrs
>
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 09:39 PM 3/7/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>I know one thing slow builders do that QBs don't, they drill holes. ;{)
Maybe not now. I sure drilled a lot. Older QBs involved lotsa measuring
and drilling. Layout is the main skill, drilling is really pretty simple
tho it can be done wrong.
Skills ladder: (?)
Design & specify
Measure & layout
Cut & finish
Assemble & adjust
Polish & paint
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
820 Jackson Drive
Paso Robles, CA 93446-1812
805.239.8112
805.674.5140 Cell
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Service Instructions needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
Charlie:
I have a full set and could photocopy and send them to you if you want. My scanner
is temporarily kaput.
However, depending on the engine you are working on, some of those you mention
do not apply. What do you have, or are you just looking to acquire the full set?
FYI, be SURE to read SB 293B and SB 388B for comparison. 293B is one of the big
discoveries Bill Scott and I made several years ago researching Lyc. valve and
guide problems. It shows that guide wear/valve sticking has existed since
at least 1967,
originally affected only O-320s and would magically vanish if you upgraded to sodium
filled valves. Now it has been largely superceded by 388B, which is almost
identical to 293B except that it applies to every one of their engines despite
the fact that they
all have sodium filled valves. It is pretty stunning.
Let me know if you want copies.
Bill Marvel
Charlie Kuss wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers,
> While doing research on obtaining all the ADs, SBs and SIs needed for overhauling
a Lycoming, there are several I have not been able to find "on line" or
in my Advantext CDs. Does anyone have a copy of the following documents that they
could email to me?
>
> Lycoming Service Instruction 1011 Lifter Hydraulic units
> " " " 1111 Crankshaft
> " " " 1435 "
> " " " 1142 Crankshaft counterweight
bushings
> " " " 1143 "
" "
> " " " 1267 Piston Wrist Pins
> " " " 1340 " " "
> " " " 1359 Connecting Rods
> " " " 1183 " "
> " " " 1479 Valve guide wear
>
> Lycoming Service Bulletin 388B Valve guide wobble check
> " " " 293B Valve sticking
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Service Instructions needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> FYI, be SURE to read SB 293B and SB 388B for comparison. 293B is one of
the big discoveries Bill Scott and I made several years ago researching Lyc.
valve and guide problems. It shows that guide wear/valve sticking has
existed since at least 1967,
>
> Bill Marvel
Sticking Valves........ HAaaaaaa!
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Tracy Crook
Rotary powered RV-4 No valves, no pistons, no rods, no cam.........
Do Not Archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | [ James E. Bean ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: James E. Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
Subject: RV-8 Cooling Cowl Flap
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jim-bean@att.net.03.08.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | [ John Harris ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Harris <johnharris@nc.rr.com>
Subject: Bracket for Wing Wiring Conduit
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/johnharris@nc.rr.com.03.08.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Service Instructions needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
Tracy-roller rocker arms no valve problems ever plus about 20 more HP-TOM
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Tom Whelan
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01@aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Getting Close)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Publications about Lyc 0320 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Greetings Listers,
I would appreciate your suggestions about any publications that you have
found helpful in learning details about the O-320-D1A. So far, I have
only the "Operator's Manual" which is good, as far as it goes. I would
like more details about this engine as well as generic Lycoming engine
and general care and feeding of aircraft engine information.
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Message 21
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| Subject: | Test of my system |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Do not archive Do not respond. KABONG
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Crimp versus Solder(was:crimping big terminals) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81@yahoo.com>
For what its worth, The NAVAIR manual had it best when
it said to use heat shrink as support for the wire
when no other strain relief is available, such as on a
circular aircraft connector. The problem with
soldering is negated with both, quick application of
the solder, and heat shrink. Crimp applications are
usually used in dry areas, and solder was used in
extreme enviroments. Pick your application and choose
your method. On the solder method, tinning the wire
before pin insertion usually ensures you do not get a
lot of wicking. Use Heat shrink to stabilize the
contact and your done. (Tinning is the application of
solder to a prepped wire). I have seen a lot of
crimped wires broken in contacts, a lot fewer of the
solder contacts were broken. This on F-14A's. That
might be called an extreme enviroment. Still, use it
for what its worth...............
Craig Chipley
RV-8A EMP
USN Aviation Electrician
FEDEX Avionics
--- Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol
> <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> The wicking problem is not negated by crimping the
> pin. The solder can still flow up the wire under the
> insulation and cause the wire to break if it's moved
> too much. If the pin has a good strain relief and
> it's properly crimped (many crimpers don't crimp the
> strain relief
> portion of the pin at all ) then good soldering
> technique will solve the wicking problem. By good
> technique I mean using a hot enough iron and being
> quick. Most bad solder joints are caused by keeping
> the heat on the pin too long which allows the heat
> and therefore the
> solder to flow up the wire.
> BTW, I don't have any problem with crimping small,
> low current wires. Crimping usually works just fine
> but I still like to solder them just to make sure --
> I've seen a lot of bad crimps that looked just fine.
>
> Dave RV6 So.Cal
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
> Rick Galati wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati"
> <rick07x@earthlink.net>
> >
> > I am currently involved with many of these same
> issues, including not
> > finding an adequate crimper for #8 ring terminals.
> One lister did suggest a
> > West Marine product but the one public review of
> its quality did not exactly
> > inspire confidence. I did have use of a crimper
> specifically designed for
> > use on the larger #2 and #4 wires though. It would
> be hard for me to
> > believe that any normal or even unreasonably
> abnormal forces could generate
> > enough strain to separate the wires from those
> terminal rings!
> >
> > I am now fabricating the wiring harnesses for a
> VM-1000 engine
> > monitor and the specs call out both crimping AND
> soldering the several
> > dozens of small pin connectors that make up the
> harnesses.
> > Reading this thread got me to thinking, ( a
> dangerous thing).
> > Could this technique be applied to the much larger
> (#2, 4 and 8) ring
> > terminals as well? That is, crimp em first, then
> solder
> > them. Seems to me once crimped, the wicking issue
> with a solder
> > becomes somewhat academic. Just though I'd put
> that out there for
> > thought.
> >
> > Rick Galati
> >
> > Subject:
> >
> > Re: Crimp versus Solder(was: crimping big
> > terminals)
> >
> > From:
> >
> > Dave Bristol (bj034@lafn.org )
> >
> > Date:
> >
> > Fri Mar 07 - 4:05
> > PM
> > -- RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol
> bj034@lafn.org
> >
> > You'll get a better electrical connection with
> solder and, with proper soldering
> > technique and good strain relief practices a
> solder connection will be just as
> > good, or better than a crimp.....snip.......I
> won't crimp a battery cable becauseat best it's not
> a 100% electrical connection and it's only going to
> get worse with age and corrosion and a littlebit of
> resistance when you're drawing starter current will
> generate heat and
> > promote more corrosion. BUT, in either case, the
> wire must be properly supported.
> >
> > Dave RV6, So. Cal
> > EAA Technical Counselor
> >
> > --- Rick Galati
> >
> > --- rick07x@earthlink.net
> >
>
>
>
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Service Instructions needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 13:57 2003-03-08 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
> > FYI, be SURE to read SB 293B and SB 388B for comparison. 293B is one of
>the big discoveries Bill Scott and I made several years ago researching Lyc.
>valve and guide problems. It shows that guide wear/valve sticking has
>existed since at least 1967,
> >
> > Bill Marvel
>
>Sticking Valves........ HAaaaaaa!
>
>Sorry, couldn't resist.
>
>Tracy Crook
>Rotary powered RV-4 No valves, no pistons, no rods, no cam.........
>
>Do Not Archive
YEAH BABY!! WOOHOO!!
(sorry...two martinis...do not archive)
MGM
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 24
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| Subject: | RE: crimping big terminals |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
I have been reading this thread about crimping terminals and thought I might
share my experiences. About 15 years ago I undertook the complete
restoration of my 1949 A35 Bonanza. In replacing all of the "Big" wires I to
wondered how am I going to crimp these things. The IA that was supervising
me lent me his "Hammer Crimper" which I used to crimp the battery cables.
After reading the post of concern about hammer crimpers I can tell you all
that I haven't had any problems with my charging or starting systems. When I
started the wiring of my RV6 I bought a hammer crimper of my own to do the
battery cables and I don't expect any problems with them either.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
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