Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:24 AM - Re: Re: Of Service (Kyle Boatright)
2. 05:59 AM - pitot line (Bob Hartley)
3. 06:21 AM - Re: Electricvs.manual (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
4. 06:59 AM - fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap (lucky macy)
5. 07:26 AM - Re: Re: Of Service (C. Rabaut)
6. 07:29 AM - Prosealing tank drain (Wiethe, Philip (P.J.))
7. 07:32 AM - 6 fuse jig needed, southeast PA (John Bright)
8. 07:38 AM - Grove Streamline Gear Performance Data--Good Stuff (Rob Miller)
9. 07:41 AM - Re: Prosealing tank drain (Rob Miller)
10. 08:25 AM - Re: homebrew shrinking/stretching, whether or not to flute (Jeff Point)
11. 08:26 AM - Re: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap (Ed Tate)
12. 08:33 AM - Re: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap (Ed Bundy)
13. 08:52 AM - Re: homebrew shrinking/stretching, whether or not to flute (Dan Checkoway)
14. 09:35 AM - Re: Flap/Aileron gap (DAVID REEL)
15. 09:35 AM - Trailing edge bending brake construction (Mark Antenbring)
16. 10:03 AM - landings.com - off topic (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
17. 10:22 AM - Re: Flap/Aileron gap (van Bladeren, Ron)
18. 11:25 AM - New RV (Tom Gummo)
19. 12:03 PM - Re: Re: Of Service (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
20. 12:50 PM - manual trim vs electric (Wheeler North)
21. 01:12 PM - Re: New RV (Laird Owens)
22. 01:33 PM - Re: Trailing edge bending brake construction (Elsa & Henry)
23. 01:34 PM - Re: New RV (Charles Rowbotham)
24. 03:58 PM - Re: manual trim vs electric (Tedd McHenry)
25. 04:05 PM - Re: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap (Michel)
26. 04:09 PM - Re: Trailing edge bending brake construction (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
27. 04:10 PM - Electric Flap Motor (JDaniel343@aol.com)
28. 04:36 PM - Re: Publications about Lyc 0320 (Richard Dudley)
29. 05:16 PM - Re: Electric Flap Motor (Alex Peterson)
30. 05:38 PM - Re: manual trim vs electric (Jerry Springer)
31. 05:40 PM - Re: Holes in firewall (Norman)
32. 05:50 PM - > Re: Of service (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
33. 05:57 PM - Re: Holes in firewall (John Starn)
34. 06:27 PM - Rocket (Dr. Leathers)
35. 06:35 PM - King Transponder For Sale, eBay (Shemp)
36. 06:47 PM - Re: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap (RV8ter@aol.com)
37. 06:50 PM - Re: King Transponder For Sale, eBay (Shemp)
38. 06:57 PM - Re: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap (Vanremog@aol.com)
39. 07:11 PM - Re: landings.com - off topic (Tom Gummo)
40. 07:38 PM - Re: manual trim vs electric (Gary Zilik)
41. 08:21 PM - Re: Flap/Aileron gap (JusCash@aol.com)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I wouldn't open it. Sounds like one of the trojan horse viruses. They are
often sent using a false return e-mail address.
KB
Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: <JNice51355@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Of Service
> --> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
>
> Folks
> Did anybody receive a Zip file under the subject heading "Of Service" from
> rv-list@matronics.com??? I did, and I am apprehensive about opening zip
> files that do not have any messages with them.
> Jim Nice
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
How does one transition from the aluminum pitot tube (not heated) in the
wing to the plastic in the cockpit? Which fitting to use and which drawing
to look at?
Thank you
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Electricvs.manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
I prefer the electric for the additional space provided in the center on the
RV-6. I used that space for a center console which I would NOT want to give
up. The relaxing of my elbow on that console while holding the throttles
etc. makes it worth it for me.
I have had the trim run to the stops on me while flying. A short in the
right stick. So there is addition issues no doubt with the electric. But
even with my problem. Id still take the elec.
Do not archive
Mike Stewart
Subject: RV-List: Electricvs.manual Manual manual/electric Elev. trim- Elect
vs manual
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Both fuel caps turns relatively easily when installed and do not seal air
tight. The nut on the bottom is already on OH MY GOD TIGHT and I am unable
to make it close any better and seal the tank. I've heard of this problem
before. Is there a replacement O ring which is a little wider? Any other
ideas?
TIA,
lucky
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Jim,
NEVER! NEVER! NEVER! open any files (even if they are listed as zip,
photo, etc...) that you weren't expecting. The viruses can take over as
soon as you give the order to "open"... that's when they "execute" their
instructions.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <JNice51355@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Of Service
> --> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
>
> Folks
> Did anybody receive a Zip file under the subject heading "Of Service" from
> rv-list@matronics.com??? I did, and I am apprehensive about opening zip
> files that do not have any messages with them.
> Jim Nice
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Prosealing tank drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wiethe, Philip (P.J.)" <pwiethe@ford.com>
I made the following observation when prosealing the rivet shop heads for
the tank drain on the inside of the tank - this may be obvious to some, but
I didn't see it in the directions, so I thought I would post it. You don't
want to "connect" the rivet heads and form a complete ring of proseal on the
skin surrounding the drain. This raised lip may keep a small amount of
water from emptying into the drain. I made sure the rivet heads were
covered, but that some skin between the heads was free of proseal.
Phil
8A wings
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 6 fuse jig needed, southeast PA |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Bright <johninvaus@yahoo.com>
If anyone has an orphaned 6 fuse jig near York County,
PA (Harrisburg / Gettysburg area) I can give it a
home.
Thanks,
John Bright
do not archive
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Grove Streamline Gear Performance Data--Good Stuff |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Hello Listers
I have test flown my newly installed Grove Streamlined Gear Legs. Testing
has been delayed while I tried almost everything to prevent the brake
fittings on the gear legs from leaking brake fluid. The solution was good
ole Pro Seal on the 1/8 NPT threads.
The following data was collected on my RV-8. The aircraft has no leg,
intersection, or wheel fairings. The gear access panels beneath the
fuselage were also left off of both tests. Speed numbers were obtained
with full throttle 19.4" MAP, EGT 100 rich of peak, at 11,500 MSL.
Weight OAT Climb Rate to 11K Speed
MPH
Van's Standard Gear 1525 55F 1025 184
Grove Streamlined Gear 1514 43F 1242 185
I am somewhat disappointed that there was no speed increase. The Grove
Gear is much thicker where the legs intersect the fuselage (about 1/2
inch). The outside gear hold down is now exposed. The root of the leg is
concave and obviously very draggy. This will, off course be completely
covered by an intersection fairing which should greatly enhance
performance. It is interesting to note that my stall speed increased by 6
mph--I attribute this to the phenomenon experienced by Randy Lervold and
his tail shake data on unfaired legs--the thicker Grove legs may have
aggravated this problem until the fairings are installed.
My question is how much of my increased climb performance is related to
test temperature change, how much to lighter weight, and how much to the
legs, themselves. Any number crunchers know the answer to this one?
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 48 hours
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Prosealing tank drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Excellent point Phil. You definely want to give water and crud complete
access to the drain.
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 48 hours
Do not Archive
--- "Wiethe, Philip (P.J.)" <pwiethe@ford.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wiethe, Philip (P.J.)"
> <pwiethe@ford.com>
>
> I made the following observation when prosealing the rivet shop heads
> for
> the tank drain on the inside of the tank - this may be obvious to some,
> but
> I didn't see it in the directions, so I thought I would post it. You
> don't
> want to "connect" the rivet heads and form a complete ring of proseal on
> the
> skin surrounding the drain. This raised lip may keep a small amount of
> water from emptying into the drain. I made sure the rivet heads were
> covered, but that some skin between the heads was free of proseal.
>
> Phil
> 8A wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: homebrew shrinking/stretching, whether or not to flute |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Dan,
I had the same problem with my 6. I bent the side rails into shape as
best I could and said good enough. I planned to (and did) use a few
shims between the frame and the side skins to get it to line up better,
but now that it is done, I wish I had found a shrinker/ stretcher and
made the fit better. There is a gap on the left side of about 1/4 inch
in one spot.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit
Milwaukee WI
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Question for any tip-up builders/fliers out there:
>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Tate" <tate@onlinemac.com>
I believe that is a lock nut which is to be loosened so the needed
adjustment can be made. Should be instructions with the caps.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
Subject: RV-List: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Both fuel caps turns relatively easily when installed and do not seal air
tight. The nut on the bottom is already on OH MY GOD TIGHT and I am unable
to make it close any better and seal the tank. I've heard of this problem
before. Is there a replacement O ring which is a little wider? Any other
ideas?
TIA,
lucky
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@velocitus.net>
This is a common mistake. The nut on the bottom does not tighten the
assembly, it locks the bottom half of the cap in place. The cap has two
parts, an upper and lower, separated by the O-ring. You need to loosen the
nut, then screw the bottom half of the cap clockwise which brings the two
parts closer together, forcing the O-ring outward. Then tighten the locknut
to keep them from moving.
Ed Bundy RV6a 500+ hours
> Both fuel caps turns relatively easily when installed and do not seal air
> tight. The nut on the bottom is already on OH MY GOD TIGHT and I am
unable
> to make it close any better and seal the tank. I've heard of this problem
> before. Is there a replacement O ring which is a little wider? Any other
> ideas?
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: homebrew shrinking/stretching, whether or not to flute |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Thanks for all the responses. I managed to get the sides bent into perfect
alignment using the good old "in-vise longeron bending" technique. I just
clamped the weldment flange in the vise, pulled up or down depending on
stretch or shrink needs, then whacked it with a hammer. Worked great!
http://www.rvproject.com/20030309.html (see about 1/2 way down)
Thanks again,
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: homebrew shrinking/stretching, whether or not to flute
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> Dan,
>
> I had the same problem with my 6. I bent the side rails into shape as
> best I could and said good enough. I planned to (and did) use a few
> shims between the frame and the side skins to get it to line up better,
> but now that it is done, I wish I had found a shrinker/ stretcher and
> made the fit better. There is a gap on the left side of about 1/4 inch
> in one spot.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 finish kit
> Milwaukee WI
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> >Question for any tip-up builders/fliers out there:
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap/Aileron gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
On my RV8A, the FL406B plate on the inboard end of the flaps wound up 1/64" outboard
of the trim line needed to clear the fuselage by the 1/16" shown on drawing
43. If the flap were placed 3/32 inboard of the plans position, there would
be little or no gap obtainable between flap and fuselage. I believe the safest
course would be to reposition the flap per the plans.
Dave Reel
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Trailing edge bending brake construction |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Antenbring <mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
Vans says to make the bending brake out of 2x8's and door hinges as shown in
a diagram in the manual. Now, there's 2 different diagrams of the brake that
aren't consistent. One diagram shows the hinge plates attached to the 1.5"
side of the 2x8, and the other shows the hinge attached to the wide side
(7.5") of the 2x8. Which is better -- bending with the wide or narrow sides?
What size gap (if any) is between the 2 boards? And what about that dowel in
the trailing edge while bending trick? I've heard of 2 sizes mentioned --
3/16" and 1/8". Also, has anyone inset the hinge plates (like a door frame
is) into the wood, or is that unnecessary? Thanks in advance for any
pointers.
Mark
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | landings.com - off topic |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
I am considering doing a project in partnership with a company called
www.landings.com and am wondering what people think of them?
___ never heard of 'em
___ heard of them, but no big deal
___ I like their web site and view it often
any other comments about them?
please respond off list to
agold@buildersbooks.com
Thanks,
Andy
http://buildersbooks.com
do not archive
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap/Aileron gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
I agree with Dave and Bill, you need to have the wings in place to properly
position the flaps. I had to move my right flap 1/8" further inboard
because the FL406B plate was to far outboard and would have required too
much slot enlargement in the fuselage side to provide adequate rod end
clearance.
Repositioning is easy. You only have to derivet the hinge half on the flap.
Take it to your table to make working on it more convenient. After
deriveting, lay the old hinge half next to an identical new hinge half and
mark on the new a starter hole at one end where the hole should be to move
the flap in the proper direction and amount. Drill the starter hole in the
new hinge, cleco to the flap and drill in sequence, rivet and your done.
But don't do anything until the wings are mounted, aft spar drilled, aileron
mounted and rigged, etc.
Good luck
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: DAVID REEL [mailto:dreel@cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap/Aileron gap
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
On my RV8A, the FL406B plate on the inboard end of the flaps wound up 1/64"
outboard of the trim line needed to clear the fuselage by the 1/16" shown on
drawing 43. If the flap were placed 3/32 inboard of the plans position,
there would be little or no gap obtainable between flap and fuselage. I
believe the safest course would be to reposition the flap per the plans.
Dave Reel
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Everybody,
I have been waiting for Bob Watson to post that he has his RV-9A flying.
I asked him when he was going to post and he gave me premission to info
everybody.
I don't remember the extact day but he has about 8 hours on it now.
So THERE IS A NEW RV-9A flying at Apple Valley (APV). :-)
BTW, it should win awards once it starts going the airshows. He did a great
job.
Good on you Bob.
Tom Gummo
Pres EAA Ch 768
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Matt's email server will NEVER EVER send you anything with an attachment in
it.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: JNice51355@aol.com [mailto:JNice51355@aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Re: Of Service
--> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
Folks
Did anybody receive a Zip file under the subject heading "Of Service" from
rv-list@matronics.com??? I did, and I am apprehensive about opening zip
files that do not have any messages with them.
Jim Nice
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | manual trim vs electric |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
I can talk at this as I have had both in my plane for the pitch, and just
recently went back to manual.
It has taking me a while to identify why I prefer the manual. For the entire
time that I had the electric in I didn't trust it. But it never failed, it
worked flawlessly, and I stand by Allen's servo systems completely.
The issue was tactile feedback. With the cable I can feel the motion of the
tab in one hand while feeling the result from the stick in the other hand. I
didn't get this from the electric trim.
If you have never had the manual, then it won't be an issue as your comfort
zone won't be affected by something it has not experienced.
do not archive
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
I saw Bob's RV-9a last weekend. Very nicly done.
What a nice looking panel as well! (That's kinda of an inside joke,
as Bob was one of my early customers of my composite panel. His is
the first RV-9a with one.)
Congratulations again Bob.
Laird RV-6 SoCal
http://www.planes-wings-things.com/rv-6_panel.htm
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>Everybody,
>
>I have been waiting for Bob Watson to post that he has his RV-9A flying.
>I asked him when he was going to post and he gave me premission to info
>everybody.
>
>I don't remember the extact day but he has about 8 hours on it now.
>
>So THERE IS A NEW RV-9A flying at Apple Valley (APV). :-)
>
>BTW, it should win awards once it starts going the airshows. He did a great
>job.
>
>Good on you Bob.
>
>Tom Gummo
>Pres EAA Ch 768
>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge bending brake construction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I used Kiln-dried 2X10's for my brake with the hinges installed on the 1
1/2" edges as shown in fig.
6-16 of my -6 manual (1995 vintage), with both boards separated by a 1/8"
thk. spacer strip which was cut to 1" wide and positioned against hinges at
the time of bending. This acted as a back-stop to position the skin being
bent equi-distant to the hinge axis. Worked ok with the empennage parts, and
got a nice bend radius. I have a small 18" hand brake on which I bent a
piece of .016 scrap (lots of pieces came in my kit) and finished the bend on
the wood brake to ensure the radius was not too sharp.-OK.
I modified the brake for the ailerons by laying the two boards side-by-side
with a 3/16" spacer between them and installing the hinges on the wide side
of the boards. I used the 1 1/2" side ends to do the actual bending of the
skins with a 3/16" dia steel rod placed inside the bend of the skin. One
precaution I took was to duct-tape about six strips of wood, 3/16" thick
along the skin
( on what will become the top side) to hold the steel rod right against the
bend radius to prevent it moving away during the bending operation.
The final result is that I obtained a perfect bend radius that matches the
flap's one perfectly. No heavy wing in flight test!
Hope this helps-----Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Tom,
Please on to Bob - our CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV08A
>From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: New RV
>Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 11:19:02 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>Everybody,
>
>I have been waiting for Bob Watson to post that he has his RV-9A flying.
>I asked him when he was going to post and he gave me premission to info
>everybody.
>
>I don't remember the extact day but he has about 8 hours on it now.
>
>So THERE IS A NEW RV-9A flying at Apple Valley (APV). :-)
>
>BTW, it should win awards once it starts going the airshows. He did a
>great
>job.
>
>Good on you Bob.
>
>Tom Gummo
>Pres EAA Ch 768
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: manual trim vs electric |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
I trained on an airplane that has electric trim (with coolie hat) on the stick,
and most of my hours have been flown with that arrangement. I prefer it.
However, I have a few hours on an RV-4 with manual trim, and found it just
fine. One caveat, though: if you do formation flying you will probably find
the coolie hat very helpful.
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michel" <rv8ter@rogers.com>
Loosen the nut again and turn the bottom disk it is threaded on the shaft.
Michel
RV81117 55 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky macy
Subject: RV-List: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Both fuel caps turns relatively easily when installed and do not seal air
tight. The nut on the bottom is already on OH MY GOD TIGHT and I am unable
to make it close any better and seal the tank. I've heard of this problem
before. Is there a replacement O ring which is a little wider? Any other
ideas?
TIA,
lucky
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge bending brake construction |
--> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
Mark,
It's been a few years since I made my brake. (They haven't caught me yet, so
I guess it worked) But seriously, I made mine with the 8" boards facing each
other
(Wide sides against the metal) The hinges are recessed into the face of each
side so that they don't contact the skin. I think I used 1/8" dowel, but
whatever it was matched the call out on the drawings. (E.g. 1/16" bend radius
= 1/8 dowel)
Hope this helps.
Hal Benjamin
RV-4, Fuselage
Long Island, NY
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Electric Flap Motor |
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
Has anyone had trouble with their elec. flap motor?
I have had some problems with flaps sticking up and down. A coulple bangs on the
attachment has freed the motor to run. (no the flaps aren't binding or hanging
up on some part of the air frame).
I called Vans and they said it was probablly the brushes in the motor. (I only
had about 80 hrs on the plane when the problem developed). I have since taken
the motor apart and bleaned the armature and the part where the bruches ride.
(the brushed looked ok but the motor was pretty dirty) This worked for about 30
hrs and now its beginning to act up again. Any ideas and has anyone else had
this problem?
John Danielson
RV-6
130 hrs.
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Publications about Lyc 0320 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Thanks, Charlie for the suggestions and links. I have noted others
earlier who mentioned the Skyranch Engineering Manual as being a good
resource. I'll plan to purchase that. I have started downloading the A&P
chapters also.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A cowl fitting
Do not archive
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> At 07:53 AM 3/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> Richard,
> 3 good general reference books are available on line from the FAA. They are
the A&P's Handbook of General Knowledge. AC65-9A Get it at:
> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/ACNumber/A563729E3DAAC121862569F1005F80F1?OpenDocument
> The A&P's Powerplant Handbook. AC 65-12A Get it at:
> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/ACNumber/614BD958F4D610DF862569EE0077E5F0?OpenDocument
>
> And the A&P's Airframe Handbook. AC 65-15A Download it at:
> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/ACNumber/66AB237BAF7184A0862569F1005F7733?OpenDocument
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Publications about Lyc 0320
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
> >>
> >> Greetings Listers,
> >>
> >> I would appreciate your suggestions about any publications that you have
> >> found helpful in learning details about the O-320-D1A. So far, I have
> >> only the "Operator's Manual" which is good, as far as it goes. I would
> >> like more details about this engine as well as generic Lycoming engine
> >> and general care and feeding of aircraft engine information.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
> >>
> >> Richard Dudley
> >> -6A FWF
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Electric Flap Motor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
John, there is someone here in MN with what sounds like the same problem
with a new RV6, and it seems I heard about one other. There might be a
general problem with the motors or something. If it were me, I would
look in Newark or some other electric supply house and buy just the
motor, because I believe the whole flap jack is expensive. IIRC, the
motor brand is a common one.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 265 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
>
> Has anyone had trouble with their elec. flap motor?
> I have had some problems with flaps sticking up and down. A
> coulple bangs on the attachment has freed the motor to run.
> (no the flaps aren't binding or hanging up on some part of
> the air frame). I called Vans and they said it was probablly
> the brushes in the motor. (I only had about 80 hrs on the
> plane when the problem developed). I have since taken the
> motor apart and bleaned the armature and the part where the
> bruches ride. (the brushed looked ok but the motor was pretty
> dirty) This worked for about 30 hrs and now its beginning to
> act up again. Any ideas and has anyone else had this problem?
>
> John Danielson
> RV-6
> 130 hrs.
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: manual trim vs electric |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
For the other side of the story I had manual and switched to electric
and well never go back to manual.
Jerry
do not archive
Wheeler North wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Well,
>
> I can talk at this as I have had both in my plane for the pitch, and just
> recently went back to manual.
>
> It has taking me a while to identify why I prefer the manual. For the entire
> time that I had the electric in I didn't trust it. But it never failed, it
> worked flawlessly, and I stand by Allen's servo systems completely.
>
> The issue was tactile feedback. With the cable I can feel the motion of the
> tab in one hand while feeling the result from the stick in the other hand. I
> didn't get this from the electric trim.
>
> If you have never had the manual, then it won't be an issue as your comfort
> zone won't be affected by something it has not experienced.
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Holes in firewall |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> Since reading the post yesterday regarding a new stainless steel heat box,
Im a little concerned about the holes I patched on my firewall with .032 AL.
I removed the two thru-firewall fittings used to bring vent air into the
cockpit before the NACA scoops arrived and had to patch the holes. I
samwiched the firewall with the 032 and riveted it on. Im wondering if I
should have used stainless instead. Any opinions?
> Jeff Dowling
I had to move the fuel line bulkhead fitting leaving behind a small hole. I
was concerned to have the firewall in it's original condition so I phoned
Van and asked them what to do. They promptly sent me a small scrap of
Stainless Steel which I happily riveted on with probably too many rivets. Oh
well....
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Of service |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I never open any email that looks odd. If the subject looks like I might be
interested , I send email back to the sender to see if they are legit.
I may miss a few emails , but I don't want to have to go through buying a new
computer again !!!
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Holes in firewall |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Do Not Archive
"Too many rivits" is that possible ?. Only if the the pieces put together
fall out due to lack of material between rivit holes. :') KABONG
> Van and asked them what to do. They promptly sent me a small scrap of
> Stainless Steel which I happily riveted on with probably too many rivets.
Oh
> well....
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Hello Listers,
I would like to take a ride in a HRII or F1. If any Rocket Men in the Seattle area
would like to oblige, I fly out of Harvey Field in Snohomish. I could meet
you any Tuesday, Thursday, or weekends. I'd be happy to buy you lunch at the
Buzz Inn and top off your tanks after the ride.
Fence Sitting for now!
DOC
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | King Transponder For Sale, eBay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Hello all, I just posted my transponder on eBay. I decided to keep up with the
rest of my new radios and get a new transponder.
Jeff Dowling
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2916174755&ssPageNameADME:B:LC:US:1
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
In a message dated 3/10/2003 7:06:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8ter@rogers.com writes:
> Loosen the nut again and turn the bottom disk it is threaded on the shaft.
>
> Michel
> RV81117 55 hrs
I did and the darn latch piece on top of the post snapped clean off! I went
ahead and tried the second cap and had no problem loosening up the nut and
tightening it up and I think it's going to seal just fine now.
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: King Transponder For Sale, eBay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
For some reason the ebay link didnt work. Here it is again.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2916174755&ssPageName=ADM
E:B:LC:US:1
> Hello all, I just posted my transponder on eBay. I decided to keep up
with the rest of my new radios and get a new transponder.
>
> Jeff Dowling
>
>
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank pressure test & fuel cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/10/2003 7:01:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
luckymacy@hotmail.com writes:
> Both fuel caps turns relatively easily when installed and do not seal air
> tight. The nut on the bottom is already on OH MY GOD TIGHT and I am unable
>
> to make it close any better and seal the tank. I've heard of this problem
> before. Is there a replacement O ring which is a little wider? Any other
> ideas?
As others have correctly stated, the locknut on the bottom is functioning as
a jam nut. The lower part of the cap is also threaded so you need to hold
the lower part well and break the jam nut loose (CCW). Give the lower part a
turn or two (CW) on the threaded post and then tighten the jam nut against
the lower part.
Now having said all that, this tightening is done at your peril if you have
not at the same time replaced the cheesy roll pin in the latch/post with a
solid drill blank or CRES dowel pin of equivalent or slightly greater
diameter. This is a glaring weakness in the Usher caps.
Please check the archives, as this has been discussed ad nauseum many years
back. If you don't do the roll pin replacement, you may end up shearing the
roll pin as the lower part drops, not unexpectedly, to the bottom of your
fuel tank on your next cross-country (not fun). It also helps to always put
a little fuel on the O-ring or use Fuelube between the O-ring and the PTFE
ramp washers to foster lower friction during closure.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: landings.com - off topic |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
I don't surf the web much but I have looked at it a couple of times.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV-List: landings.com - off topic
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
<winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
>
> I am considering doing a project in partnership with a company called
> www.landings.com and am wondering what people think of them?
>
> ___ never heard of 'em
>
> ___X heard of them, but no big deal
>
> ___ I like their web site and view it often
>
> any other comments about them?
>
> please respond off list to
> agold@buildersbooks.com
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> http://buildersbooks.com
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: manual trim vs electric |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Just another opinion. I have manual trim and really like it. I have
flown elec and prefer my manual trim.
Gary
Jerry Springer wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
>For the other side of the story I had manual and switched to electric
>and well never go back to manual.
>
>Jerry
>do not archive
>
>Wheeler North wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>>
>>Well,
>>
>>I can talk at this as I have had both in my plane for the pitch, and just
>>recently went back to manual.
>>
>>It has taking me a while to identify why I prefer the manual. For the entire
>>time that I had the electric in I didn't trust it. But it never failed, it
>>worked flawlessly, and I stand by Allen's servo systems completely.
>>
>>The issue was tactile feedback. With the cable I can feel the motion of the
>>tab in one hand while feeling the result from the stick in the other hand. I
>>didn't get this from the electric trim.
>>
>>If you have never had the manual, then it won't be an issue as your comfort
>>zone won't be affected by something it has not experienced.
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap/Aileron gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
All of my flight controls where drilled and mounted with the wings standing
vertically. All adjustments where made at this time. To determine where to
cut the flap inboard ends I drew a reference line across the wing and flap.=20
After installing the wings I was able to use the line on the wing to make an
accurate posterboard template of the fuselage contour. Using the line on the
flap as a guide I was able to trim the skin very accurately. The bottom was
left long to cover the pushrod hole with the flaps retracted.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
Geoff:
> After mounting the control
> surfaces, I discovered that the flap/aileron gap is about 3/32" wider than
the
> 1/4" specified on the plans. I think this happened because when I drilled
the
> flap hinges, I measured the gap with the ailerons positioned as far inboard
as
> they would go, thinking that this would insure a *minimum* of 1/4" gap.
The plans with my QB showed a set of spacers/washers to be used to postion
the
ailerons correctly regarding inboard/outboard location.=A0 Did you get the same
info?=A0 If not, I don't think it is a big deal.
> I realize that the larger gaps will cause a drag penalty (hopefully
> negligible), but the real question is will the inboard ends of the flaps
> interfere with the fuselage since I now know they are 3/32" farther inboard
> then they need to be.
No way in hades are you going to detect any speed difference.=A0 This is like
an
extra hair on the left hind leg of a flea.=A0 No biggie.=A0 As to the flaps, the
truth
is that you cannot fit them until and unless the wings are installed.=A0 You
have
to
cut quite a bit off of the inboard section of the flaps to get them to match
the
contour of the fuselage.=A0 This can only be done with the wings installed,=20and
is
an iterative process.=A0 I think I made about 10 cuts on the upper inboard
surface
of the flaps before I got a good match to the fuselage.=A0 3/32 of an inch is a
joke
-- you'll be cutting off more like an inch and a half.
> I'm obviously a long way from mounting the wings, but if I'm going to have
to
> re-drill the flap hinges, I'd rather do it now as opposed to later.
Don't worry about the flaps until you mount the wings.=A0 Once they are
mounted,
you
will have the geometry pinned down that the flaps have to fit.=A0 Trim the flap
inboard ends accordingly.=A0 You do not have to re-drill anything.=A0 Don't=20even
think
about doing that.
Bill Marvel
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|