Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:05 AM - floscan location (Dave Ford)
2. 05:23 AM - Re: Publications about Lyc 0320 (Charlie Kuss)
3. 06:55 AM - Publications about Lyc 0320 - a sales pitch (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
4. 07:58 AM - Electric flap motor failures (John Allen)
5. 08:07 AM - Re: floscan location (Dave Bristol)
6. 08:27 AM - Re: floscan location (Laird Owens)
7. 10:24 AM - Re: Electric flap motor failures (Stucklen, Frederic IFC)
8. 11:11 AM - Re: Electric flap motor failures (SportAV8R@aol.com)
9. 11:39 AM - Re: Re: Electric flap motor failures (Garry LeGare)
10. 12:55 PM - Re: Electric flap motor failures (Sam Buchanan)
11. 01:51 PM - Garmin 250XL (Paul Brown)
12. 03:03 PM - Dynon Delivery? (WALTER KERR)
13. 03:22 PM - Re: Power Charts (PSPRV6A@aol.com)
14. 03:40 PM - Re: Re: Power Charts (Kevin Horton)
15. 04:20 PM - Re: floscan location (Tim Lewis)
16. 05:01 PM - Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump (Paul Stratman)
17. 05:37 PM - Re: Re: Power Charts (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
18. 06:12 PM - Re: pitot line (Gary)
19. 06:31 PM - Re: floscan location (William Davis)
20. 06:40 PM - Re: Re: Power Charts (SportAV8R@aol.com)
21. 06:46 PM - Re: pitot line (Kyle Boatright)
22. 07:19 PM - Scratches in Aluminum (linenwool@attbi.com)
23. 07:40 PM - Re: Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump (LarryRobertHelming)
24. 07:47 PM - Re: Dynon Delivery? (Brian Denk)
25. 08:01 PM - first engine failure, need help (Rvmils@aol.com)
26. 08:16 PM - Re: Re: Power Charts (John Huft)
27. 08:39 PM - Lost Builders Logs (Bobpaulo@aol.com)
28. 08:41 PM - Charlie in Mississippi (Bobpaulo@aol.com)
29. 09:20 PM - handling the canopy (Dan Checkoway)
30. 10:32 PM - Re: pitot line (Geoff Evans)
31. 11:42 PM - Re: Dynon Delivery? (Arthur Nation)
Message 1
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| Subject: | floscan location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
I was reading a website about the flo-scan transducer and it states the device
must be located on the suction side of the fuel pump. Is this referring to the
boost pump (FI) or the mechanical pump? Also has anyone located this after
the mechanical pump in the engine compartment? I don't quite understand why location
would make a difference if it is the fuel moving in the fuel line that
it is sensing & measuring.
Dave Ford
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Publications about Lyc 0320 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Here are 4 more web links with good "on line" tech info.
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Manuf.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/maintenancePublications/servicePubsIndex/servicePubsIndex.pdf
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Manuf_Page/sb388b-1.html
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Manuf_Page/si1479a-1.html
Charlie
>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
>Thanks, Charlie for the suggestions and links. I have noted others
>earlier who mentioned the Skyranch Engineering Manual as being a good
>resource. I'll plan to purchase that. I have started downloading the A&P
>chapters also.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>-6A cowl fitting
>Do not archive
>
>Charlie Kuss wrote:
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> At 07:53 AM 3/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>> Richard,
>> 3 good general reference books are available on line from the FAA. They are
the A&P's Handbook of General Knowledge. AC65-9A Get it at:
>> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/ACNumber/A563729E3DAAC121862569F1005F80F1?OpenDocument
>> The A&P's Powerplant Handbook. AC 65-12A Get it at:
>> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/ACNumber/614BD958F4D610DF862569EE0077E5F0?OpenDocument
>>
>> And the A&P's Airframe Handbook. AC 65-15A Download it at:
>> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/ACNumber/66AB237BAF7184A0862569F1005F7733?OpenDocument
>>
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> >Subject: RV-List: Publications about Lyc 0320
>> >
>> >
>> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>> >>
>> >> Greetings Listers,
>> >>
>> >> I would appreciate your suggestions about any publications that you have
>> >> found helpful in learning details about the O-320-D1A. So far, I have
>> >> only the "Operator's Manual" which is good, as far as it goes. I would
>> >> like more details about this engine as well as generic Lycoming engine
>> >> and general care and feeding of aircraft engine information.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance.
>> >>
>> >> Richard Dudley
>> >> -6A FWF
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Publications about Lyc 0320 - a sales pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
A sales pitch
To you guys considering downloading the FAAs AC-65 series, you should know
that these are large books which also happen to be quite cheap. Downloading
and printing well over 1000 pages may not be the most economical or best use
of your time, especially when you've still got about 11,000 more rivets to
go..
The complete set of three AC 65-9, -12, and -15 is only $57.50; on Builder's
Bookstore (in the A&P Training section).
Want it even cheaper? The Standard Flight Library CD ($43.95, shown on the
same page) includes the full AC 65 series, + AC 43.13 + all the FARs and AIM
+ about 500 other relevant advisory circulars and FAA publications, all
searchable and printable.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
> Charlie
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
> >
> >Thanks, Charlie for the suggestions and links. I have noted others
> >earlier who mentioned the Skyranch Engineering Manual as being a good
> >resource. I'll plan to purchase that. I have started downloading the A&P
> >chapters also.
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Richard Dudley
> >-6A cowl fitting
> >Do not archive
> >
> >Charlie Kuss wrote:
> >>
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >> At 07:53 AM 3/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >> Richard,
> >> 3 good general reference books are available on line from the FAA.
They are the A&P's Handbook of General Knowledge. AC65-9A Get it at:
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Electric flap motor failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Allen <fliier@yahoo.com>
My electric flap motor also quits every 30 hours or so. I've gotten to the point
where I keep a special kit in the airplane just for that problem. I can open
and clean that motor armature in about 30 minutes in the field, without removing
the assembly from the airplane.
I have never had them stick in the down position, but I have had to make a couple
of no-flap landings. Fortunately the RV slips well and is not hard to land
without flaps.
It seems that the interval between failures has increased over time.
John Allen
RV6A
---------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: floscan location |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Dave,
This is interesting, my instructions say to install the transducer: "Between engine
driven pump and servo/throttle body or carburetor." which is the pressure
side of the pump.
It makes a difference because fuel pumps would rather push than suck so any more
restriction on the suction side makes it more difficult for the pump.
Dave RV6, So Cal
Dave Ford wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
> I was reading a website about the flo-scan transducer and it states the device
must be located on the suction side of the fuel pump. Is this referring to
the boost pump (FI) or the mechanical pump? Also has anyone located this after
the mechanical pump in the engine compartment? I don't quite understand why
location would make a difference if it is the fuel moving in the fuel line that
it is sensing & measuring.
>
> Dave Ford
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: floscan location |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
>I was reading a website about the flo-scan transducer and it states
>the device must be located on the suction side of the fuel pump. Is
>this referring to the boost pump (FI) or the mechanical pump? Also
>has anyone located this after the mechanical pump in the engine
>compartment? I don't quite understand why location would make a
>difference if it is the fuel moving in the fuel line that it is
>sensing & measuring.
>
>Dave Ford
Dave,
I have my transducer downstream (closer to the engine) of the boost
pump in the engine compartment.
When the boost pump is on, it reads about 2 ghp higher than with it off.
Seeing the high fuel flow on climb out does remind me to turn off the
boost pump though.
Laird
RV-6 SoCal
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Electric flap motor failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
John,
Failure of the flap motor surprises me. My last RV is still flying with
over 2000 Hrs on the same electric flap system, and has never been a
problem. What appears to be the failure mechanism?
If the brushes are not making proper contact with the armature and
arching is occurring, you may have a bad motor and/or brushes.
If the end-of-movement clutches are not working properly, and the motor
is going into a locked rotor condition, that might also explain aching on
the armature. Or if the motor is failing to shut off at the end of flap
movement condition, that also might cause excessive arching on the armature.
The normal current draw on this motor is usually quit low. The fact that
you have to clean it every 30 hours should be a big red flag warning that
something isn't right.......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV Reserved
--> RV-List message posted by: John Allen
My electric flap motor also quits every 30 hours or so. I've gotten
to the point
where I keep a special kit in the airplane just for that problem. I
can open
and clean that motor armature in about 30 minutes in the field,
without removing
the assembly from the airplane.
I have never had them stick in the down position, but I have had to
make a couple
of no-flap landings. Fortunately the RV slips well and is not hard
to land
without flaps.
It seems that the interval between failures has increased over time.
John Allen
RV6A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Electric flap motor failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Funny, I 've never had this problem, but I have had the trouble the original
poster mentioned in passing: my left flap snagged somehow on the wing walk
doubler skin where it overhangs the rear spar. The metal was quite snarled
up inside there when I took the flap loose to sort things out. A few
minutes' careful cutting with a diamond wheel in the Dremel tool removed the
offending sheet metal. Not sure why the doubler skin laps over the rear spar
anyway; you're certainly not going to step there and expect it to hold your
weight! The flap leading edge, visible only in the deployed position, is a
bit cosmetically damaged, but otherwise we are fully operational again. The
symptom of this binding was a loud "bang" when raising the flaps, about
halfway up in the travel range. No noise going down, since the edges slid
smoothly past each other in that direction. If your flaps ever make a
strange noise, investigate... I let this continue longer than I should have.
Bill B
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Electric flap motor failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garry LeGare <versadek@earthlink.net>
Guys,
My flap motor started acting up on the trip up to the Langley Fly In. Sometimes
it would work other
times not.
When we got back home I checked out the switch which was fine and eventually removed
the flap motor.
I was going to buy another, but after getting the price I decided to open it up.
What I found was
the com and brushes were covered with grease, so much so that the brushes couldn't
make contact.
After cleaning and reassembling it worked fine and has ever since. In my early
years I worked for
Rockwell as a power tool mechanic and it looks like a case of excess grease in
the gear box leaking
onto the com.
Casper
"Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>
> John,
>
> Failure of the flap motor surprises me. My last RV is still flying with
> over 2000 Hrs on the same electric flap system, and has never been a
> problem. What appears to be the failure mechanism?
> If the brushes are not making proper contact with the armature and
> arching is occurring, you may have a bad motor and/or brushes.
> If the end-of-movement clutches are not working properly, and the motor
> is going into a locked rotor condition, that might also explain aching on
> the armature. Or if the motor is failing to shut off at the end of flap
> movement condition, that also might cause excessive arching on the armature.
> The normal current draw on this motor is usually quit low. The fact that
> you have to clean it every 30 hours should be a big red flag warning that
> something isn't right.......
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV Reserved
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: John Allen
>
> My electric flap motor also quits every 30 hours or so. I've gotten
> to the point
> where I keep a special kit in the airplane just for that problem. I
> can open
> and clean that motor armature in about 30 minutes in the field,
> without removing
> the assembly from the airplane.
>
> I have never had them stick in the down position, but I have had to
> make a couple
> of no-flap landings. Fortunately the RV slips well and is not hard
> to land
> without flaps.
>
> It seems that the interval between failures has increased over time.
>
> John Allen
> RV6A
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Electric flap motor failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
SportAV8R@aol.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Funny, I 've never had this problem, but I have had the trouble the original
> poster mentioned in passing: my left flap snagged somehow on the wing walk
> doubler skin where it overhangs the rear spar. The metal was quite snarled
> up inside there when I took the flap loose to sort things out. A few
> minutes' careful cutting with a diamond wheel in the Dremel tool removed the
> offending sheet metal.
<snip>
I experienced the same problem when the doubler caught the edge of the
antiscuff tape on the flap leading edge. As Bill mentioned, I heard the
motor laboring (it happened on the ground during preflight) followed by
a large BANG as the flap broke free. Fortunately the only result was the
doubler was bent down.
When installing the tape, be sure you have not created a situation where
the tape and doubler could hang. I too recommend you trim the doubler
back even with the rear spar to prevent this situation.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
Builders,
I have a Garmin 250XL still new. Price new is $2795. the first $2200 takes it.
Paul
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
Has anyone out there received their unit yet?
I would really like to order one, but am also tempted to wait until they announce
a rate hike or see someone mount one and say it is good to go. Dynon told me
today that there is a 30 day no questions asked full money return.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying , 9A rotary power building
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Power Charts |
--> RV-List message posted by: PSPRV6A@aol.com
There have been a number of postings about the "mystery" of why 24"
manifold pressure & 2400 RPM should give more power at say, 7000 feet than at
sea level. There are a number of interrelated reasons, but the primary one
is simple when you think it thru. At 24" at sea level, the exhaust stroke
has to push the used-up combustion products into a pressure of about 29"
ambient. As the piston next goes down on the intake stroke, the remaining
products of combustion in the cylinder simply re-expand to the reduced 24"
pressure before any new combustion charge can be inhaled. Thus, the intake
of fresh air and fuel is less, resulting in reduced power, also slightly less
fuel consumption! In short, the breathing capacity of the cylinder has been
reduced.
It's been nearly fifty years since I was in over my head for a some years
studying thermodynamics, but the essentials have not changed. There are many
factors involved, but the re-expansion of the old combustion products in the
cylinder is the primary reason for the slightly reduced power at lower
altitude. Paul S. Petersen, RV6A ,(building)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Power Charts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
At 6:20 PM -0500 11/3/03, Paul S. Petersen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: PSPRV6A@aol.com
>
> There have been a number of postings about the "mystery" of why 24"
>manifold pressure & 2400 RPM should give more power at say, 7000 feet than at
>sea level. There are a number of interrelated reasons, but the primary one
>is simple when you think it thru. At 24" at sea level, the exhaust stroke
>has to push the used-up combustion products into a pressure of about 29"
>ambient. As the piston next goes down on the intake stroke, the remaining
>products of combustion in the cylinder simply re-expand to the reduced 24"
>pressure before any new combustion charge can be inhaled. Thus, the intake
>of fresh air and fuel is less, resulting in reduced power, also slightly less
>fuel consumption! In short, the breathing capacity of the cylinder has been
>reduced.
> It's been nearly fifty years since I was in over my head for a some years
>studying thermodynamics, but the essentials have not changed. There are many
>factors involved, but the re-expansion of the old combustion products in the
>cylinder is the primary reason for the slightly reduced power at lower
>altitude. Paul S. Petersen, RV6A ,(building)
>
>
Paul,
Thanks for the explanation. This makes a lot of sense, and could
easily explain differences in power vs altitude on the order of that
found on the Lycoming power charts.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 15
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owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: floscan location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
Mine is located after the fuel selector valve, but before the boost
pump and mechanical pump. I have a Fram G-3 filter between the
Floscan and the mechanical pump. The Fram is about 1/2 full of air,
and serves to dampen out the pressure pulses flowing back down the
fuel line from the pumps. Without the Fram I got erratic readings from
the Floscan.
This is discussed in some detail in the airchives.
Tim
From: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: floscan location
Date sent: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 08:03:35 -0500
Send reply to: rv-list@matronics.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
> I was reading a website about the flo-scan transducer and it states the device
must be located on the suction side of the fuel pump. Is this referring to
the boost pump (FI) or the mechanical pump? Also has anyone located this after
the mechanical pump in the engine compartment? I don't
quite understand why location would make a difference if it is the fuel moving
in the fuel line that it is sensing & measuring.
>
> Dave Ford
>
>
>
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
Message 16
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| Subject: | Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
I bought a new 0-360 from Van's 8/01 that was produced by Lycoming 4/01.
Just found out today, there is a Service Bulletin (#548) dated 3/01 for bad
fuel pumps manufactured from 9/00 through 2/01.
So, since I am in the middle of my condition inspection, thought, what the
heck, I'll check it. Surely it's not one of the pumps listed.
Yeah right, the engine, made 1 month after the Service Bulletin was written,
has one of the bad pumps listed.
So, here I am, 1 year and 1 month after entry into service. (1 month longer
than the warranty) Wonder what the factory will tell me tomorrow? Has anyone
else found this to be the case. Has anyone else even checked, after all, I
assumed that anything dated before the manufacture date did not apply.
Paul Stratman
N21PS with 260 hrs
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Power Charts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Power Charts
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
> At 6:20 PM -0500 11/3/03, Paul S. Petersen wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: PSPRV6A@aol.com
> >
> > There have been a number of postings about the "mystery" of why 24"
> >manifold pressure & 2400 RPM should give more power at say, 7000 feet
than at
> >sea level. There are a number of interrelated reasons, but the primary
one
> >is simple when you think it thru. At 24" at sea level, the exhaust
stroke
> >has to push the used-up combustion products into a pressure of about 29"
> >ambient. As the piston next goes down on the intake stroke, the
remaining
> >products of combustion in the cylinder simply re-expand to the reduced
24"
> >pressure before any new combustion charge can be inhaled. Thus, the
intake
> >of fresh air and fuel is less, resulting in reduced power, also slightly
less
> >fuel consumption! In short, the breathing capacity of the cylinder has
been
> >reduced.
> > It's been nearly fifty years since I was in over my head for a some
years
> >studying thermodynamics, but the essentials have not changed. There are
many
> >factors involved, but the re-expansion of the old combustion products in
the
> >cylinder is the primary reason for the slightly reduced power at lower
> >altitude. Paul S. Petersen, RV6A ,(building)
> >
> >
> Paul,
>
> Thanks for the explanation. This makes a lot of sense, and could
> easily explain differences in power vs altitude on the order of that
> found on the Lycoming power charts.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
There may be something else involved here also. A look at the standard
atmosphere tables shows that the air density decreases with altitude, but
more slowly than the pressure. Assuming equal temperature change across the
throttle plate at sea level and altitude, the intake density at 24"mp will
be less than the intake density at altitude with the same mp. The higher
one goes, the larger the difference, at least up to the altitudes we are
interested in. The difference at 5000' is about 3%. At 10000' it's about
5%. All of the Lycoming power charts that I have show the same trend with
increasing altitude, that is for any combination of mp and rpm, the hp is
higher at altitude than it is at sea level. The factors mentioned by others
certainly are important and is not likely very simple. It would be
interesting to know how Lycoming derived their altitude curves. I'd guess
they are calculated using empirical formulae based on research done years
ago by different groups who didn't all arrive at the same values. Perhaps
they picked the report that most nearly matched their ideas of how things
should be. This is pure speculation on my part.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
How does one transition from the aluminum pitot tube (not heated) in the
wing to the plastic in the cockpit? Which fitting to use and which drawing
to look at?
Thank you
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
Bob.......no drawing reference, but there was an article in a past RVator which
suggested simply flaring the plastic and using the same fitting, sleeve, and
nut that the aluminum flared tube uses.
So just use a 1/4 inch bulkhead flare fitting at the fuselage side next to the
wing root. Connect the aluminum to one side, plastic to the other.
Gary
---
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: floscan location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
Dave's
I have tried it both ways. On my RV-4, it was after the engine driven pump.
This set up constantly varied about .3 to .4 GPH. Although the fuel
totalizer averaged it out and was accurate, the constant dithering was
annoying. On my RV-8, the Flo-scan is mounted inside the firewall in a long
straight run that goes slightly uphill from the left side of the firewall to
the right. The order is: fuel selector-air flow performance filter-boost
pump-flo scan-engine driven pump. This set up has proven to be rock solid.
As an aside, the Flo-scan on the 4 had to be replaced twice, it evidently
couldn't take the heat.
Bill, RV-8 Tiger-Kat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034@lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: floscan location
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Dave,
>
> This is interesting, my instructions say to install the transducer:
"Between engine driven pump and servo/throttle body or carburetor." which is
the pressure side of the pump.
> It makes a difference because fuel pumps would rather push than suck so
any more restriction on the suction side makes it more difficult for the
pump.
>
> Dave RV6, So Cal
>
>
> Dave Ford wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
> >
> > I was reading a website about the flo-scan transducer and it states the
device must be located on the suction side of the fuel pump. Is this
referring to the boost pump (FI) or the mechanical pump? Also has anyone
located this after the mechanical pump in the engine compartment? I don't
quite understand why location would make a difference if it is the fuel
moving in the fuel line that it is sensing & measuring.
> >
> > Dave Ford
> >
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Power Charts |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 3/11/2003 8:39:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gcomfo@tc3net.com writes:
> Assuming equal temperature change across the
> throttle plate at sea level and altitude <snip>
Wow, I'm truly in way over my head here, but I will blunder into this thread
and ask... can we make this assumption? Won't the temp change across the
throttle plate be nil at altitude, where the throttle must be wide open just
to maintain 24 in. of manifold pressure, and some higher value at sea level,
where the air must be sucked across the partially-closed plate down to a
lower value in the induction system, thereby being expanded and cooled?
Just wondering. Personally, I liked the retained combustion gasses
explanation, and the reduced crank case pressure theory, because I could wrap
my little mind around them.
-Bill B
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
A common solution is a piece of flexible tubing used as a coupling. You can
find something with the correct inside diameter at Home Depot, Lowe's, the
local auto part store, or any decent hardware store. All you need is a
tight fit.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot line
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
>
> How does one transition from the aluminum pitot tube (not heated) in
the
> wing to the plastic in the cockpit? Which fitting to use and which
drawing
> to look at?
>
> Thank you
>
>
> Bob Hartley
> RV9A
> CA
> Bob.......no drawing reference, but there was an article in a past RVator
which suggested simply flaring the plastic and using the same fitting,
sleeve, and nut that the aluminum flared tube uses.
>
> So just use a 1/4 inch bulkhead flare fitting at the fuselage side next to
the wing root. Connect the aluminum to one side, plastic to the other.
>
> Gary
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Scratches in Aluminum |
--> RV-List message posted by: linenwool@attbi.com
How do you gauge if a scratch is too deep? My HS skin seems to have come with
a scratch in it that is about 2 inches long. I might be able to sand it out
but it would probably take something as course as 120 grit for how deep it is.
and then more fine to polish it. Would this be acceptable for structural
reasons? I can put it on the bottom and I'm sure the paint would cover it as
well but I don't want to chance it if it is a safety issue.
Also...uh oh, here we go.... is it a big deal not to prime the inside of the
skins even though I've taken the time to prime all ribs and spars?
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa.
RV8 emp
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
This looks like something Lycoming should stand behind. (Sure hope so cause
I am planning to buy an O-360 real soon.) Let us know how this works out.
I am real interested. (I notice that the XP-360 has a 2 year warranty.)
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up O-360 3XG reserved.
Working on Canopy of Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
>
> I bought a new 0-360 from Van's 8/01 that was produced by Lycoming 4/01.
> Just found out today, there is a Service Bulletin (#548) dated 3/01 for
bad
> fuel pumps manufactured from 9/00 through 2/01.
>
> So, since I am in the middle of my condition inspection, thought, what the
> heck, I'll check it. Surely it's not one of the pumps listed.
>
> Yeah right, the engine, made 1 month after the Service Bulletin was
written,
> has one of the bad pumps listed.
>
> So, here I am, 1 year and 1 month after entry into service. (1 month
longer
> than the warranty) Wonder what the factory will tell me tomorrow? Has
anyone
> else found this to be the case. Has anyone else even checked, after all, I
> assumed that anything dated before the manufacture date did not apply.
>
> Paul Stratman
> N21PS with 260 hrs
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Delivery? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
>Has anyone out there received their unit yet?
>
>I would really like to order one, but am also tempted to wait until they
>announce a rate hike or see someone mount one and say it is good to go.
>Dynon told me today that there is a 30 day no questions asked full money
>return.
>
>Bernie Kerr, 6A flying , 9A rotary power building
>
I must admit to the same concerns. I reallly.....seriously want one of
these units to replace my sucky, whiney, rolly polly gyros. Unfortunately,
it will take more work than I thought: I don't have enough space between the
neighboring instruments for the face bezel to fit. I would have to recut
the panel. Ack. Or, use the flush mount option, which I'd rather not use.
For folks out there with a standard six cluster, and who want to pop one of
these units in place of the AI or DG, be sure you check the dimensions as
provided on the Dynon website.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 25
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| Subject: | first engine failure, need help |
rv6-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Rvmils@aol.com
Well, I had my first engine failure and landed without incident. I need some
help trouble shooting this one. On takeoff at FPR, at about 800 AGL, the
engine lost most of its power. It was a sputter, followed my an almost shut
down. It reminded me of the time I was setting up my fuel flow on the RMI
and ran a tank try. I check the boost, it was confirmed on, mixture rich,
and switch tanks. No luck. I jockeyed the throttle and mixture on the down
wind, just to see if I could get more power and still no luck. I landed rwy
32 with no problems and after a few sputters to taxi clear, the engine
completely shut down on the runway. I tried to restart on the ramp and the 3
year old battery also decided to quit.
My plane is normally hangared, right now I'm doing my CFI at Aviator and the
4 has been left out for a week with half tanks. I thought it might had been
fuel contamination or moisture, but the full cup samples I took after the
long push to the ramp showed no problems with the fuel. No samples were
inspected prior to the flight. It took about a minute to land and I was
thinking that if it were water in the line it would have cleared and fired
back up, but I've also heard that fuel injectors are more sensitive to water.
Where to start, first thing tomorrow, after I order a new battery, I'll pull
the filters and purge the system, but other than that I don't know what it
could be. My system is an 0360, Bendix injector, and airflow performance
boost/filter setup. I do have the RMI fuel flow transducer between the
injector and flowdivider/spider. If anyone has any ideal where else I could
look, please advise.
Thanks,
Carey Mills
RV4 310 hours
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Power Charts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <aflyer@direcway.com>
hmmm, funny I didn't get Mr. Petersen's post...but reading it from Kevin...
I remember Kevin gave reduced scavenging as a reason, but I guess I needed
the more detailed explaination given here to convince me. Thank you, and
thanks to all who tried to help.
John Huft
RV8 almost finished painting (52 hrs)
Pagosa Springs, CO
www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Power Charts
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
At 6:20 PM -0500 11/3/03, Paul S. Petersen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: PSPRV6A@aol.com
>
> There have been a number of postings about the "mystery" of why 24"
>manifold pressure & 2400 RPM should give more power at say, 7000 feet than
at
>sea level. There are a number of interrelated reasons, but the primary one
>is simple when you think it thru. At 24" at sea level, the exhaust stroke
>has to push the used-up combustion products into a pressure of about 29"
>ambient. As the piston next goes down on the intake stroke, the remaining
>products of combustion in the cylinder simply re-expand to the reduced 24"
>pressure before any new combustion charge can be inhaled. Thus, the intake
>of fresh air and fuel is less, resulting in reduced power, also slightly
less
>fuel consumption! In short, the breathing capacity of the cylinder has
been
>reduced.
> It's been nearly fifty years since I was in over my head for a some
years
>studying thermodynamics, but the essentials have not changed. There are
many
>factors involved, but the re-expansion of the old combustion products in
the
>cylinder is the primary reason for the slightly reduced power at lower
>altitude. Paul S. Petersen, RV6A ,(building)
>
>
Paul,
Thanks for the explanation. This makes a lot of sense, and could
easily explain differences in power vs altitude on the order of that
found on the Lycoming power charts.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 27
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| Subject: | Lost Builders Logs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobpaulo@aol.com
Fellow Listers,
I have inherited a nearly completed RV 6 due to a property settlement re: the
crash I was in last spring. The airplane appears from photos sent to me
today, that the work, except for the paint is complete. I am sure there is
still a lot of ... to do.
The past owner was killed, and it appears that there are photos of the
construction process, but his family is unable to locate the actual builders
logs. To complicate things his family feels that he purchased the project
partially completed from someone in the Memphis Tenn. area. I need you guys
to give me your suggestions as to what steps I need to take re: certification
of the airplane. I would think the FAA would make some type of exception or
waver due to all the possible reasons for lost logs due to a variety of
circumstances. I will call EAA tomorrow and get their advise also.
If any of you have first hand knowledge of this type of thing feel free to
contact me off list.
Thanks in advance,
Bob Paulovich in Arkansas
Message 28
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| Subject: | Charlie in Mississippi |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobpaulo@aol.com
Anyone knowing Charlie Daniel's in Jackson? Please forward his e-mail addy to
me. I lost his phone number/e-mail address.
Thanks, Bob
Message 29
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| Subject: | handling the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I've got my RV-7 tip-up canopy frame riveted together and I'm about to enter
the FIBERGLASS ZONE... Before I get started with the glass trimming
process, I'd like to get some current advice from those who have
been-there-done-that. My question centers around handling the canopy (other
than the obvious...keep it warm, use plastic drill bits, go slow, etc.).
Are there any no-nos, like you should never lay the canopy on its
side...never lay it on its back...always lay it down on padding...etc.?
Is the glass sensitive to temperature only when being drilled or cut, or
should moving & tilting & fitting and all that happen at warm temps as well?
If you have a recommendation for a useful work surface (laid across
2x4s...laid top-down on a bench, etc.) and how to make a nice straight cut,
I'd love to hear about it. Any advice is much appreciated!
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (canopy)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
How does one transition from the aluminum pitot tube (not heated) in the
wing to the plastic in the cockpit? Which fitting to use and which drawing
to look at?
<<
Look in the Aircraft Spruce catalog on page 104-106. Here you will find some
fittings that will accept the 37-degree flared line on one end and an NPT
(national pipe thread) nut on the other. Then go to page 110 and you'll see
some pastic (nylo-seal) NPT fittings.
Just mix/match the appropriate fittings to do what you need to do.
You can find some pictures of this in the archives, but I don't remember where.
-Geoff
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Delivery? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
On Tuesday 11 March 2003 14:54, WALTER KERR wrote:
Just returned from the meeting of Chapter 326 where the RV's are King (so it
appears).
Anyway, I just looked at the site and the instrument looks fantastic. Also the
price.
Checked AS catalog and price for R.C. Allen electric horizon and directional
gyro totals $3600.00. This is a great deal so it seems. Will probably go to
the company and check it out.
Arthur
Tacoma, WA
> --> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
>
> Has anyone out there received their unit yet?
>
> I would really like to order one, but am also tempted to wait until they
> announce a rate hike or see someone mount one and say it is good to go.
> Dynon told me today that there is a 30 day no questions asked full money
> return.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A flying , 9A rotary power building
>
>
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