---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 03/12/03: 57 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:03 AM - Re: handling the canopy (Jim Jewell) 2. 12:34 AM - Re: Dynon Delivery? (Jim Jewell) 3. 04:54 AM - Re: Re: Power Charts (Gordon or Marge Comfort) 4. 05:19 AM - Re: handling the canopy (Rick Galati) 5. 06:35 AM - Grove Streamline Gear Performance (Stephen J. Soule) 6. 07:57 AM - Re: Grove Streamline Gear Performance (Rob Miller) 7. 08:01 AM - A couple engine questions (Knicholas2@aol.com) 8. 08:05 AM - Engine & mag timing question (Knicholas2@aol.com) 9. 08:22 AM - Gas Tank Seepage External Fix (Dennis Persyk) 10. 08:22 AM - Re: Engine & mag timing question (Nels Hanson) 11. 08:23 AM - Re: Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump (Charlie & Tupper England) 12. 08:27 AM - panel engraving and cutting (Frazier, Vincent A) 13. 08:36 AM - canopy work (Frazier, Vincent A) 14. 08:49 AM - Charging voltage for PC680 (dmedema@att.net) 15. 08:51 AM - Re: panel engraving and cutting (Keith Vasey) 16. 09:24 AM - Re: Engine & mag timing question (RVer273sb@aol.com) 17. 09:33 AM - Re: Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump (Bob) 18. 09:36 AM - Re: Engine & mag timing question (Bill Marvel) 19. 09:36 AM - Re: Gas Tank Seepage External Fix (Van Artsdalen, Scott) 20. 09:39 AM - Re: A couple engine questions (Bill Marvel) 21. 09:42 AM - Re: panel engraving and cutting (Jeff Point) 22. 09:55 AM - Re: Engine & mag timing question () 23. 09:56 AM - Re: A couple engine questions (Kyle Boatright) 24. 09:59 AM - Cool stuff for your plane (Van Artsdalen, Scott) 25. 10:15 AM - Re: Re: Power Charts (SportAV8R@aol.com) 26. 10:21 AM - Re: Lost Builders Logs (czechsix@juno.com) 27. 10:29 AM - Good deals on hardware from B&B Aircraft (czechsix@juno.com) 28. 11:34 AM - Data Logger (Dave von Linsowe) 29. 12:01 PM - Re: Data Logger (Brian Denk) 30. 02:04 PM - Re: Data Logger (George McNutt) 31. 02:08 PM - More canopy questions. (Dana Overall) 32. 02:16 PM - Re: Data Logger (Terry Watson) 33. 02:44 PM - data logger (David.vonLinsowe) 34. 02:48 PM - Re: Data Logger (Rob Prior) 35. 02:51 PM - Re: Cool stuff for your plane (LarryRobertHelming) 36. 02:59 PM - Re: Engine & mag timing question (Knicholas2@aol.com) 37. 03:27 PM - Re: Data Logger (Brian Huffaker) 38. 03:37 PM - Re: first engine failure, need help (Alex Peterson) 39. 03:39 PM - Re: Galls Flasher FS039 (Ed Bundy) 40. 03:41 PM - Re: Data Logger (Laird Owens) 41. 03:45 PM - Re: handling the canopy (kempthornes) 42. 03:58 PM - Re: More canopy questions. (kempthornes) 43. 04:00 PM - Re: Engine & mag timing question (Bill Marvel) 44. 04:07 PM - Re: RV7 Wing conduit (Steve Kiekover) 45. 04:10 PM - Re: Engine & mag timing question (Knicholas2@aol.com) 46. 04:17 PM - Re: Good deals on hardware from B&B Aircraft (kempthornes) 47. 04:36 PM - O320 Hard to find oil leak (kempthornes) 48. 05:29 PM - Re: Scratches in Aluminum (Steven E. Croy) 49. 05:35 PM - Riveting Baffles (Ernest Kells) 50. 06:06 PM - Re: Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump (Paul Stratman) 51. 06:19 PM - Re: O320 Hard to find oil leak (Brian Denk) 52. 06:27 PM - Gyros and VSI for Sale (Paul Stratman) 53. 06:33 PM - Re: More canopy questions. (Dana Overall) 54. 06:36 PM - Re: Riveting Baffles (Cy Galley) 55. 07:06 PM - Re: Dyon Mounting (Richard Sipp) 56. 08:59 PM - Prop wanted! (ranchspinner@Webtv.net (Mary L Bradley)) 57. 10:12 PM - Re: Data Logger (Matthew Orr) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:03:37 AM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: handling the canopy --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hi Dan, As far as handling the canopy before, during and after cutting: Keep in mind that I built the slider version and the following suggestions should be adjusted accordingly for the tip up. I used some of the plywood crate materials that Van's supplied make a "buck" to support the canopy. I cut one piece that followed the fore aft contour of the inside of the canopy but slightly smaller. I then cut two more that followed the contour across the inside of the canopy also slightly smaller. One of these two pieces was situated to support the canopy toward the rear portion. The other was positioned slightly aft of where I expected to cut and then separate the two canopy portions. I then slotted the pieces (box insert style) to fit them together and used small blocks of 2 X 2 and Plaster board screws to gusset the intersections for rigidity. I then used some split plastic pipe insulation over all the edges and stapled in place to protect the inside of the canopy from scratches etc. I made the "buck" tall enough (when assembled) to hold the trimmed canopy off the portable table about 4" to 6" I did all of the canopy handling during the early fall with temperatures in the seventies. I took care not to allow undue stress to be applied to the canopy parts. After separating the two sections the pieces do get quite floppy. Do not move them around in such a manner as to allow excessive bending. This is especially important during the drilling and mounting stages. I managed to do all of the above alone except a helper for the trimming and cutting that was done the first day. This was done over a year ago and so far no cracks.{8-] ! so far I have had the airframe outdoors in the heat of summer only a couple of times. It has lived through some quite cold winter periods as well. I hope this helps, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: handling the canopy > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > > I've got my RV-7 tip-up canopy frame riveted together and I'm about to enter > the FIBERGLASS ZONE... Before I get started with the glass trimming > process, I'd like to get some current advice from those who have > been-there-done-that. My question centers around handling the canopy (other > than the obvious...keep it warm, use plastic drill bits, go slow, etc.). > > Are there any no-nos, like you should never lay the canopy on its > side...never lay it on its back...always lay it down on padding...etc.? > > Is the glass sensitive to temperature only when being drilled or cut, or > should moving & tilting & fitting and all that happen at warm temps as well? > > If you have a recommendation for a useful work surface (laid across > 2x4s...laid top-down on a bench, etc.) and how to make a nice straight cut, > I'd love to hear about it. Any advice is much appreciated! > > Thanks in advance, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (canopy) > http://www.rvproject.com > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 12:34:52 AM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Delivery? --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hi Arther, Dynon developments has informed me that my unit will be shipped on or near the 21st. of march. I am # 40 on their list. So someone should be receiving and possibly powering up their unit as we speak. I have planned for the D10 EFIS and already have both of the Rocky Mountain units for quite a while now. I expect to have a very simple but effective VFR. control panel with lots of room to grow into. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Arthur Nation" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Delivery? > --> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation > > On Tuesday 11 March 2003 14:54, WALTER KERR wrote: > > Just returned from the meeting of Chapter 326 where the RV's are King (so it > appears). > Anyway, I just looked at the site and the instrument looks fantastic. Also the > price. > Checked AS catalog and price for R.C. Allen electric horizon and directional > gyro totals $3600.00. This is a great deal so it seems. Will probably go to > the company and check it out. > Arthur > Tacoma, WA > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" > > > > Has anyone out there received their unit yet? > > > > I would really like to order one, but am also tempted to wait until they > > announce a rate hike or see someone mount one and say it is good to go. > > Dynon told me today that there is a 30 day no questions asked full money > > return. > > > > Bernie Kerr, 6A flying , 9A rotary power building > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:54:00 AM PST US From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Power Charts --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Power Charts > --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com > > In a message dated 3/11/2003 8:39:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, > gcomfo@tc3net.com writes: > > > > Assuming equal temperature change across the > > throttle plate at sea level and altitude > > Wow, I'm truly in way over my head here, but I will blunder into this thread > and ask... can we make this assumption? Won't the temp change across the > throttle plate be nil at altitude, where the throttle must be wide open just > to maintain 24 in. of manifold pressure, and some higher value at sea level, > where the air must be sucked across the partially-closed plate down to a > lower value in the induction system, thereby being expanded and cooled? > > Just wondering. Personally, I liked the retained combustion gasses > explanation, and the reduced crank case pressure theory, because I could wrap > my little mind around them. > > -Bill B Bill: I probably should have said "carburetor" instead of throttle plate since I didn't mean to imply that the throttle plate caused the temp drop but rather the drop occurs near the throttle plate. I believe the temp drop arises mainly from the velocity change at the venturi and the vaporization of the fuel at and downstream from the venturiwith the fuel being the largest factor. This should occur pretty much regardless of the incoming air temperature. I was trying to simplify a non simple situation to make a point. I think the delta T will be about the same at whatever altitude if manifold pressure, rpm and fuel flow are the same. The effect of the throttle position will, I think, be small. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:19:09 AM PST US From: "Rick Galati" Subject: RV-List: Re: handling the canopy --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" I simply placed the canopy on the floor, using no buck. However, before I split the slider canopy, (and partly as a confidence builder) I drilled a few #40 holes in the flange on the sides of the canopy that will eventually be cut away. Some people use duct tape for this operation, but I ran a strings from one side of the canopy to the other using these holes and pulled the strings just taut. The idea was that as the split was made at the windscreen area, no undo stress would be generated on the remaining uncut 'glass because the canopy has a tendency to spread apart when no longer supported and could possibly generate a sudden crack if the stress became too localized as the cut proceeded. When the cut was finally achieved, the 2 canopy pieces pretty much stayed in the same relative position to one another minus the kerf cut. I do believe the horror stories about cutting and drilling plexiglass are way overblown. I took some scrap 'glass and drilled away doing all manner of unreasonable things to it and it never did crack. I did all this however, when the temperature was above 80 degrees. Rick Galati RV-6A FWF I've got my RV-7 tip-up canopy frame riveted together and I'm about to enter the FIBERGLASS ZONE... Before I get started with the glass trimming process, I'd like to get some current advice from those who have been-there-done-that. My question centers around handling the canopy (other than the obvious...keep it warm, use plastic drill bits, go slow, etc.). Are there any no-nos, like you should never lay the canopy on its side...never lay it on its back...always lay it down on padding...etc.? Is the glass sensitive to temperature only when being drilled or cut, or should moving tilting fitting and all that happen at warm temps as well? If you have a recommendation for a useful work surface (laid across 2x4s...laid top-down on a bench, etc.) and how to make a nice straight cut, I'd love to hear about it. Any advice is much appreciated! Thanks in advance, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (canopy) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:35:34 AM PST US From: "Stephen J. Soule" Subject: RV-List: Grove Streamline Gear Performance --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" Rob Miller, Thanks for posting information about performance of your RV-8 with the Grove streamline main gear. I would like to use them on my RV-8 under construction. Would you let us know if the ground handling of your RV-8 was affected by switching from Van's stock gear legs to the Grove gear legs? Stephen Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A N227RV RV-8 N222SZ reserved Grove Streamline Gear Performance Rob Miller, Thanks for posting information about performance of your RV-8 with the Grove streamline main gear. I would like to use them on my RV-8 under construction. Would you let us know if the ground handling of your RV-8 was affected by switching from Van's stock gear legs to the Grove gear legs? Stephen Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A N227RV RV-8 N222SZ reserved ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:57:05 AM PST US From: Rob Miller Subject: Re: RV-List: Grove Streamline Gear Performance --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller Ground handling did not appear to be affected--at least I couldn't tell the difference. Rob --- "Stephen J. Soule" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" > > Rob Miller, > > Thanks for posting information about performance of your RV-8 with the > Grove > streamline main gear. I would like to use them on my RV-8 under > construction. Would you let us know if the ground handling of your RV-8 > was > affected by switching from Van's stock gear legs to the Grove gear legs? > > Stephen Soule > Huntington, Vermont > RV-6A N227RV > RV-8 N222SZ reserved > > > > > > Grove Streamline Gear Performance > > > Rob Miller, > > > Thanks for posting information about performance of your RV-8 with the > Grove streamline main gear. I would like to use them on my RV-8 under > construction. Would you let us know if the ground handling of your RV-8 > was affected by switching from Van's stock gear legs to the Grove gear > legs? > > > Stephen Soule > > Huntington, Vermont > > RV-6A N227RV > > RV-8 N222SZ reserved > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:01:57 AM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: RV-List: A couple engine questions --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com 1. On each cylinder of my Lycoming 0-320 is a threaded hole use to mount the baffles (etc.) What bolt size and thread fits that hole? 2. As I was mounting the baffles I notice that one of the plastic push rod shrouds is cracked. How easy/difficult is it to replace? Does oil circulate in the shroud or does it just protect the push rod? Thanks Kim Nicholas RV9A Seattle ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:05:03 AM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Engine & mag timing question --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com I am installing new mags and wiring harness on my Lyc. 0-320 E2D. The install instructions are less than clear and they say to "set the timing as described in the manual...." Can someone direct me to an (easy to follow) reference on how to set the timing on the mags. Thanks ...the learning curve gets more steep as I get older... Kim Nicholas RV9A Seattle ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:22:01 AM PST US From: "Dennis Persyk" Subject: RV-List: Gas Tank Seepage External Fix --> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk" I have minor seepage from the lower tank flange seam at about 18 inches back from the inboard side of my 6A. It began after about 125 hours of flying. It is seeping either through the joint or though an adjacent rivet. It is curious that I cannot get seepage with the tank removed from the plane. I have tried 1.0 psi overpressure and soap solution and just letting the gas seep thorough, with no luck. I assume the joint is spread slightly when mounted on the plane and this opens the way for seepage. Has anyone applied an external sealant to a seepage like this? I have heard of a Locktite or similar compound with wicking qualities that has been used. I was considering Proseal, but it is not likely to work externally. I am familiar with the method of cutting an access hole and Prosealing on the inside and will do this if I cannot locate a good external sealant. If you have specific knowledge of a suitable compound please let me know at dpersyk@att.net Thank you. Dennis Persyk RV6A N600DP 130 hours ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:22:33 AM PST US From: Nels Hanson Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine & mag timing question --> RV-List message posted by: Nels Hanson There should be a small mark on your starter that you line up with the TDC mark on your starter ring. That is where the points in the mags are to "break". --- Knicholas2@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com > > I am installing new mags and wiring harness on my > Lyc. 0-320 E2D. The > install instructions are less than clear and they > say to "set the timing as > described in the manual...." Can someone direct me > to an (easy to follow) > reference on how to set the timing on the mags. > > Thanks > > ...the learning curve gets more steep as I get > older... > > Kim Nicholas > RV9A > Seattle > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > latest messages. > List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:23:39 AM PST US From: Charlie & Tupper England Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England LarryRobertHelming wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" > >This looks like something Lycoming should stand behind. (Sure hope so cause >I am planning to buy an O-360 real soon.) Let us know how this works out. >I am real interested. (I notice that the XP-360 has a 2 year warranty.) > "This looks like something Lycoming should stand behind." Come on, Larry, you know that humor has no place on this list.... Charlie ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:27:57 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: panel engraving and cutting From: "Frazier, Vincent A" "Bud Starnes (E-mail)" , "Christina Phillips (E-mail)" , "EAA 21 (E-mail)" , "Earl Schroeder (E-mail)" , "Jim Truitt (E-mail)" , "Ric Merriwether (E-mail)" , "Ron Strupp (E-mail)" , "Scott Herschelman @ work (E-mail)" , "Shannon Stewart (E-mail)" , "Steve Fritchley (E-mail)" , "RV-List Digest (E-mail)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" This works great. I mocked up a panel for the Rocket in about 15 minutes. All cutouts and engraving done for $130. Looks like a good deal to me, though I haven't ordered anything yet. Very cool! Vince ********************************** I found this site in an electronics magazine. The make engraved panels for your plane etc. Download a free cad design client. Then lay it out, unpload them the design and voila... your panel shows up at your house. The client will even give you a price estimate. Wish I found this sooner. Looks REAL good! Make the cockpit real spiffy. http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/prices/index.htm Warmest regards, Bob ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:36:36 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: canopy work From: "Frazier, Vincent A" --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" Dan, I found an easy way to work on the floppy bubble. Go steal your kids bean bag chairs. You can mold them to whatever shape you need to support the plexi while trimming. A big bag of packing peanuts would work also. I use a Milwaukee side grinder with a 4" cutoff wheel to cut the plexi. Dremel tools take tooooo long. The 4" wheel is the only way to go, IMHO. Don't forget to ALWAYS smooth the edges before moving it around. And be careful not to clamp the plexi over any lumps or bumps on the frame unless you like cracked plexi. Vince Frazier 1946 Stinson, NC97535, FOR SALE F-1H Rocket, "Shangrila", N540VF reserved, ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:49:58 AM PST US From: dmedema@att.net Subject: RV-List: Charging voltage for PC680 --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net I received my PC680 battery yesterday and need to know what to set my adjustable voltage regulator to for correct charging of this battery. The information that comes with the battery lists two different scenarios: A) Standby, per 12V battery 13.5-13.8V B) Cyclic, per 12V battery 14.7-15.0V. These are actually given for "Constant voltage portable charger parameters", but I can't find anything else in their information. Just thought I would check with listers before I tried to call them. Thanks, Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM (reserved) working on fiberglass finishing. ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:51:26 AM PST US From: "Keith Vasey" Subject: RE: RV-List: panel engraving and cutting --> RV-List message posted by: "Keith Vasey" Sounds interesting to me. I am now at the panel planning stage. This company is about 3/4 of a mile from me here in Seattle. I'll stop in there in the next few days. Keith Vasey RV-8 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Frazier, Vincent A (E-mail); EAA 21 (E-mail); Earl Schroeder (E-mail); Jim Truitt (E-mail); Ric Merriwether (E-mail); Ron Strupp (E-mail); Scott Herschelman @ work (E-mail); Shannon Stewart (E-mail); Steve Fritchley (E-mail); RV-List Digest (E-mail) Subject: RV-List: panel engraving and cutting --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" This works great. I mocked up a panel for the Rocket in about 15 minutes. All cutouts and engraving done for $130. Looks like a good deal to me, though I haven't ordered anything yet. Very cool! Vince ********************************** I found this site in an electronics magazine. The make engraved panels for your plane etc. Download a free cad design client. Then lay it out, unpload them the design and voila... your panel shows up at your house. The client will even give you a price estimate. Wish I found this sooner. Looks REAL good! Make the cockpit real spiffy. http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/prices/index.htm Warmest regards, Bob ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:24:11 AM PST US From: RVer273sb@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine & mag timing question --> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com Don't forget to time the mag with the impulse coupling off of the impulse portion of rotation. Stewart RV4 in Co. do not archive ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:33:38 AM PST US From: Bob Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump --> RV-List message posted by: Bob My fuel pump lasted 12 hours. I sure do hate all of this certified stuff, none of my experimental stuff ever breaks!! Bob A >I bought a new 0-360 from Van's 8/01 that was produced by Lycoming 4/01. >Just found out today, there is a Service Bulletin (#548) dated 3/01 for bad >fuel pumps manufactured from 9/00 through 2/01. > > >Yeah right, the engine, made 1 month after the Service Bulletin was written, >has one of the bad pumps listed. > >So, here I am, 1 year and 1 month after entry into service. (1 month longer >than the warranty) Wonder what the factory will tell me tomorrow? Has anyone >else found this to be the case. Has anyone else even checked, after all, I >assumed that anything dated before the manufacture date did not apply. ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 09:36:18 AM PST US From: Bill Marvel Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine & mag timing question --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel Kim: Get some help on this from someone who knows what he is doing. Hire an A&P if you have to. This is not an area that takes kindly to mistakes. Bill Marvel Knicholas2@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com > > I am installing new mags and wiring harness on my Lyc. 0-320 E2D. The > install instructions are less than clear and they say to "set the timing as > described in the manual...." Can someone direct me to an (easy to follow) > reference on how to set the timing on the mags. > > Thanks > > ...the learning curve gets more steep as I get older... > > Kim Nicholas > RV9A > Seattle > -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 09:36:22 AM PST US From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" Subject: RE: RV-List: Gas Tank Seepage External Fix --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" Dennis, I'd like to know too. I'm having a similar problem. Tank doesn't leak when off the plane. But does leak when mounted on the wing. -- Scott VanArtsdalen Network Manager Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Persyk [mailto:dpersyk@worldnet.att.net] Subject: RV-List: Gas Tank Seepage External Fix --> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk" I have minor seepage from the lower tank flange seam at about 18 inches back from the inboard side of my 6A. It began after about 125 hours of flying. It is seeping either through the joint or though an adjacent rivet. It is curious that I cannot get seepage with the tank removed from the plane. I have tried 1.0 psi overpressure and soap solution and just letting the gas seep thorough, with no luck. I assume the joint is spread slightly when mounted on the plane and this opens the way for seepage. Has anyone applied an external sealant to a seepage like this? I have heard of a Locktite or similar compound with wicking qualities that has been used. I was considering Proseal, but it is not likely to work externally. I am familiar with the method of cutting an access hole and Prosealing on the inside and will do this if I cannot locate a good external sealant. If you have specific knowledge of a suitable compound please let me know at dpersyk@att.net Thank you. Dennis Persyk RV6A N600DP 130 hours ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:39:53 AM PST US From: Bill Marvel Subject: Re: RV-List: A couple engine questions --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel 1. It probably came with your baffle kit. If not, I believe it is a 1/4x20 thread. 2. The pushrod shroud tubes are made of aluminum, not plastic and they do carry oil (but not much!). What you are seeing may be cracked paint. As for replacement, get someone who has done it to show you. Several upper end cylinder parts have to come off and the hydraulic plunger assembly socket may come out with the pushrod. Bill Marvel Knicholas2@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com > > 1. On each cylinder of my Lycoming 0-320 is a threaded hole use to mount the > baffles (etc.) What bolt size and thread fits that hole? > > 2. As I was mounting the baffles I notice that one of the plastic push rod > shrouds is cracked. How easy/difficult is it to replace? Does oil circulate > in the shroud or does it just protect the push rod? > > Thanks > > Kim Nicholas > RV9A > Seattle > -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 09:42:43 AM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: panel engraving and cutting --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point Vince, Very neat. I can't seem to figure out how to create the basic panel in the proper shape. How did you do it? Jeff Point Frazier, Vincent A wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" > > >This works great. I mocked up a panel for the Rocket in about 15 minutes. All cutouts and engraving done for $130. Looks like a good deal to me, though I haven't ordered anything yet. Very cool! > >Vince >********************************** > >I found this site in an electronics magazine. The make engraved panels for your plane etc. > >Download a free cad design client. Then lay it out, unpload them the design and voila... your panel shows up at your house. The client will even give you a price estimate. Wish I found this sooner. Looks REAL good! Make the cockpit real spiffy. > >http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/prices/index.htm > > >Warmest regards, > >Bob > > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 09:55:41 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine & mag timing question From: --> RV-List message posted by: Easy job: http://www.sacskyranch.com/faq_slick_magneto/FAQ00002.htm Rob Acker (RV-6) do not archive > --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com > > I am installing new mags and wiring harness on my Lyc. 0-320 E2D. The > install instructions are less than clear and they say to "set the timing > as described in the manual...." Can someone direct me to an (easy to > follow) reference on how to set the timing on the mags. > > Thanks > > ...the learning curve gets more steep as I get older... > > Kim Nicholas > RV9A > Seattle > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 09:56:25 AM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: Re: RV-List: A couple engine questions --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" A minor correction... Some of the pushrod shrouds are plastic, depending on vintage, engine type, etc. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Marvel" Subject: Re: RV-List: A couple engine questions > --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel > > 1. It probably came with your baffle kit. If not, I believe it is a 1/4x20 > thread. > > 2. The pushrod shroud tubes are made of aluminum, not plastic and they do carry > oil (but not much!). What you are seeing may be cracked paint. As for > replacement, get someone who has done it to show you. Several upper end cylinder > parts have to come off and the hydraulic plunger assembly socket may come out > with the pushrod. > > > Bill Marvel > > Knicholas2@aol.com wrote: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com > > > > 1. On each cylinder of my Lycoming 0-320 is a threaded hole use to mount the > > baffles (etc.) What bolt size and thread fits that hole? > > > > 2. As I was mounting the baffles I notice that one of the plastic push rod > > shrouds is cracked. How easy/difficult is it to replace? Does oil circulate > > in the shroud or does it just protect the push rod? > > > > Thanks > > > > Kim Nicholas > > RV9A > > Seattle > > > > > -- > Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 > P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 > San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 > > One good deed beats 100 good intentions... > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 09:59:25 AM PST US From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" Subject: RV-List: Cool stuff for your plane --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" Last night at our EAA Chapter 90 meeting we had an excellent presentation by a member on designing panels. This guy is really sharp and had some good ideas on panel design. You may actually seem him offering some products in the future. He presented some ideas on panel lighting which included electro-luminescent tape. You can buy this stuff for wads of money at an aircraft supplier but he got his here for cheap (less that $20). You can also find those nifty computer case handles that another lister talked about using on his rollover structure a few weeks ago. Here's the site: http://www.pcmods.com -- Scott VanArtsdalen Network Manager Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 Last night at our EAA Chapter 90 meeting we had an excellent presentation by a member on designing panels. This guy is really sharp and had some good ideas on panel design. You may actually seem him offering some products in the future. He presented some ideas on panel lighting which included electro-luminescent tape. You can buy this stuff for wads of money at an aircraft supplier but he got his here for cheap (less that $20). You can also find those nifty computer case handles that another lister talked about using on his rollover structure a few weeks ago. Here's the site: http://www.pcmods.com -- Scott VanArtsdalen Network Manager Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 10:15:56 AM PST US From: SportAV8R@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Power Charts --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com In a message dated 03/12/2003 7:55:21 AM Eastern Standard Time, gcomfo@tc3net.com writes: > I was trying to simplify a non simple situation to make a > point. I think the delta T will be about the same at whatever altitude if > manifold pressure, rpm and fuel flow are the same. The effect of the > throttle position will, I think, be small. > > Gordon Comfort > I dunno, Gordon; I think you are onto something. The airflow in the venturi is only temporarily accelerated, but does produce the delta T we all worry about with carb icing, as does the evaporative cooling of the fuel. But the butterfly is a real obstruction, and a pressure difference does exist across it, all the way to the intake valves and beyond, until the compression stroke changes everything. I think, if I recall Boyle's Law (or somebody's Law)correctly that the change in pressure will cause the air to expand in the intake manifold and the temp to drop a corresponding amount. A wide-open throttle won't do this, but a nearly closed throttle should cause a noticable effect on intake air temp if I am reasoning this out correctly in my head. Seems like the effect, if present, would be to cause intake air ingested at a manifold pressure of 24 in. at sea level to undergo cooling that is not happening up at 24 in. ambient pressure and wide-open throttle. What effect this would have on power output is anyone's guess; I really have no idea. do not archive BillB ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 10:21:53 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Lost Builders Logs From: czechsix@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com Hey Bob, Glad to hear you're getting an airplane! That's cool. I have a couple cents of advice to give...a friend and I purchased an almost complete Volksplane a couple years ago from the deceased builder's son and it had very few records. What we discovered is that even though we did not do the majority of the work, as long as you do a little bit of the work and you can show that 51% or more was amateur-built (by you and others), you can still apply for the repairman's certificate and registration. If the kit is already registered it gets more complicated because when you register it, the name of the builder goes on the registration and when you apply for the airworthiness certificate, the same name must be used. So if the deceased builder registered this airplane, you need to have the registration amended with a signed letter from whoever has power of attorney for his estate to change his name as the builder to your name. Then things will be straight forward when you apply for the airworthiness certificate and if you did any work at all on the project you should be able to get the repairmans certificate. To elaborate a bit on the 51% rule, remember that a group of people can build an airplane together...only one of them needs to be named on the registration/airworthiness certificate as the builder, and he does not have to prove that he *personally* built 51% of the airplane, only that he was one of a group of amateurs who collectively built at least 51%. He may have personally only built 2% of it. At least that's what I got from EAA and the Des Moines FSDO. As for the missing builder logs, it may be sufficient to get a letter from the deceased' family verifying that he built X% of the airplane and if you can track down the owner previous to that and get the same type of statement, I think you'll be ok. FWIW, YMMV... --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D firewall forward and wiring... From: Bobpaulo@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Lost Builders Logs --> RV-List message posted by: Bobpaulo@aol.com Fellow Listers, I have inherited a nearly completed RV 6 due to a property settlement re: the crash I was in last spring. The airplane appears from photos sent to me today, that the work, except for the paint is complete. I am sure there is still a lot of ... to do. The past owner was killed, and it appears that there are photos of the construction process, but his family is unable to locate the actual builders logs. To complicate things his family feels that he purchased the project partially completed from someone in the Memphis Tenn. area. I need you guys to give me your suggestions as to what steps I need to take re: certification of the airplane. I would think the FAA would make some type of exception or waver due to all the possible reasons for lost logs due to a variety of circumstances. I will call EAA tomorrow and get their advise also. If any of you have first hand knowledge of this type of thing feel free to contact me off list. Thanks in advance, Bob Paulovich in Arkansas ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:03 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Good deals on hardware from B&B Aircraft From: czechsix@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com Guys, Just a heads up for those wanting to save a few bucks on misc hardware and electrical stuff. Give B&B Aircraft a call at (913) 884-5930. I just ordered a 5 A Klixon circuit breaker from them for $7.50 (surplus but new/unused condition). Normally these are over $20 new. Also got some of the little camloc wheel pant access doors (for filling tires) for $7.50 each, Aircraft Spruce charges $10 for these last I checked. They have good prices on pop rivets, misc AN hardware, etc. too.... --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D fwf and wiring... ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 11:34:38 AM PST US From: "Dave von Linsowe" Subject: RV-List: Data Logger --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" Has anyone used or has seen a (inexpensive) data logger that would record A.S., RoC, RPM and M.P.? I'm doing some flight testing and it sure would come in handy. I've used one in a Madera R/C racer years ago, but I don't think it would handle enough inputs. Thanks Dave RV-6 The need for (more) speed----> ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 12:01:34 PM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: Re: RV-List: Data Logger --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" > >Has anyone used or has seen a (inexpensive) data logger that would record >A.S., RoC, RPM and M.P.? > >I'm doing some flight testing and it sure would come in handy. > >I've used one in a Madera R/C racer years ago, but I don't think it would >handle enough inputs. > >Thanks >Dave RV-6 >The need for (more) speed----> Dave, The hard part is interfacing the sensors to whatever form of data acquisition unit you use. There are plenty of interface cards for PC's that handle 4-20mA, 0-10V sensor loops that could do the job. SCADA software is also available to manipulate the data stream with trending, alarm points, and graphics editors to make a user friendly screen to look at. It all costs, and like anything, you get what you pay for! I think the best route would be to use a laptop PC, with interface module for the desired number of channels, and a basic SCADA (supervisory control and data acquisition) software package. Signal conditioning for the various inputs you want would have to be managed to allow the interface card to convert the information to digital format. A small PLC would be really sweet, but would entail more money, power requirements, etc, to be considered. For RoC, Airspeed and manifold pressure, you would need pressure transmitters to generate a 0-10v or 4-20mA signal. For rpm, an optical sensor would probably be the easiest interface. Temps would require analog to digital conversion. It gets kinda ugly when you really look at all that's required to acquire meaningful data! There is probably a ready to go unit out there for aviation data acquisition. The affordability of it would be the prime issue. Best of luck. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD instrumentation and controls geek, Intel Corp. > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 02:04:00 PM PST US From: "George McNutt" Subject: RE: RV-List: Data Logger --> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave von Linsowe Subject: RV-List: Data Logger --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" Has anyone used or has seen a (inexpensive) data logger that would record A.S., RoC, RPM and M.P.? I'm doing some flight testing and it sure would come in handy. I've used one in a Madera R/C racer years ago, but I don't think it would handle enough inputs. Thanks Dave RV-6 Hi Dave If (inexpensive) is the key word, I usually take a small voice tape recorder to record test flight data. George McNutt Langley, B.C Flying ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 02:08:26 PM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RV-List: More canopy questions. --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" I'm getting ready to order the fuselage for my 7 within the week. Yes, I have gone throught the archives but still would like some input. Leaning towards tipper. On the slider when does the glare screen get permanently attached? Any hops to jump through to make the slider not leak at the forward attach point? The apron on the aft portion of the slider: I've heard the talk here lately about the gap varying due to temperature. I am assuming this is the plexi shrinking or expanding due the the temp. as opposed to the alum doing the same. I'm guessing this apron adds structure to the canopy itself, in that regard is it worth doing another way. My first airplane was the plastic variety. I got very good at layups and worked quite a bit with carbon fiber. It would be very easy to lay down duct tape with release agent on the fuse. and lay up a couple layers of carbon fiber to get a perfect (at the temp. it is applied) fit. Can it be done or would it work? Effort is not part of the equation, the layup would be pain free. Pros and cons. Dana Overall Richmond, KY http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 02:16:50 PM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Data Logger --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" For about $13,000 you could buy a Bluemountain EFIS-one, which has a data logger that records all the sensor data every five seconds, including air speed, altitude, time, engine data, etc. Of course that price includes the solid state gyros, magnetometer, 12 channel moving map GPS with all the high and low altitude IFR charts plus approach plates plus sectionals, and all the engine instruments, H.S.I., and a bunch of stuff I can't think of at the moment. It will record a total of 12 hours flight time before you have to download the data. Maybe a little more to the point, I remember seeing ads in the back of various flying magazines for data loggers that probably do what you are looking for. Do not archive Terry RV-8A #80729 It gets kinda ugly when you really look at all that's required to acquire meaningful data! There is probably a ready to go unit out there for aviation data acquisition. The affordability of it would be the prime issue. Best of luck. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD instrumentation and controls geek, Intel Corp. > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 02:44:09 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: data logger From: "David.vonLinsowe" --> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" Actually, I should have said, I need to record airspeed, (pressure) altitude, outside air temp, RPM and manifold pressure. I'll calculate the rate of climb. Dave -----Original Message----- From: vonLinsowe, David Subject: Data logger Has anyone seen or used a (inexpensive) data logger that would record A.S., RoC, RPM and M.P.? I'm doing some flight testing and it sure would come in handy. I've used one in a Madera R/C racer years ago, but I don't think it would handle enough inputs. Thanks Dave RV-6 The need for (more) speed----> ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 02:48:54 PM PST US From: Rob Prior Subject: Re: RV-List: Data Logger --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior George's reply got me thinking about cheap alternatives... If you have a Digital Camera and a Handheld GPS (or any GPS that can record a track log for you that you can download later) try this: 1. Take a digital picture of your GPS' "clock" screen, so you have a record of the difference between the GPS' clock and your Camera's clock. 2. Set the GPS to record a track. 3. Go flying. Occasionally take digital pictures of the entire panel or individual instruments. Maybe tell your co-pilot to do it for you. 4. Land, go home, open one of your favorite HFB's (HFB = Hop Flavoured Beverage) and download the track and pictures to your computer. You should now have a track that says where and when you were, from which you can determine ground speeds. You'll also be able to sort your pictures by date/time. Sure, it means manual correlation and transcribing if what you wanted was a set of numbers in a spreadsheet, but it might be simple enough and cheap enough for your needs if you're only going to do it once (and the HFB should make it go a little easier... 8-). -RB4 George McNutt wrote: > Hi Dave > > If (inexpensive) is the key word, I usually take a small voice tape recorder > to record test flight data. > > George McNutt > Langley, B.C > Flying ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 02:51:47 PM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cool stuff for your plane --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" I am just a poor and not so bright boy/man from southern Indiana. Hope you can understand my position. I don't seem to know about the electro-luminescent tape. If you can see yourself helping one with less ability, please post some info that will/might educate me about how this BFM stuff works. Thanks for any help. Larry in Indiana, ----- Original Message ----- From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" Subject: RV-List: Cool stuff for your plane > --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" > > Last night at our EAA Chapter 90 meeting we had an excellent presentation by > a member on designing panels. This guy is really sharp and had some good > ideas on panel design. You may actually seem him offering some products in > the future. He presented some ideas on panel lighting which included > electro-luminescent tape. You can buy this stuff for wads of money at an > aircraft supplier but he got his here for cheap (less that $20). You can > also find those nifty computer case handles that another lister talked about > using on his rollover structure a few weeks ago. > > Here's the site: > > http://www.pcmods.com > > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen > Network Manager > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > > > > > > > > > name"PersonName"/> > > > > > > > > > font-family:Arial'>Last night at our EAA Chapter 90 meeting we had an excellent > presentation by a member on designing panels. > This guy is really sharp and had some good ideas on panel design. style'mso-spacerun:yes'>You may actually seem him offering some > products in the future. He presented > some ideas on panel lighting which included electro-luminescent tape. style'mso-spacerun:yes'> You can buy this stuff for wads of money at > an aircraft supplier but he got his here for cheap (less that $20). style'mso-spacerun:yes'>You can also find those nifty computer case > handles that another lister talked about using on his > rollover structure a few weeks ago. > > > font-family:Arial'> > > > font-family:Arial'>Here's the site: > > > font-family:Arial'> > > > font-family:Arial'>http://www.pcmods.com > > > font-family:Arial'> > > > font-family:Arial'> > > > font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'>-- yes'> > > > faceArial> mso-no-proof:yes'>Scott VanArtsdalen style'mso-no-proof:yes'> > > > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>Network Manager style'mso-no-proof:yes'> > > > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>Union Safe Deposit Bank style'mso-no-proof:yes'> > > > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:gray;mso-no-proof:yes'>209-946-5116 > > 12.0pt'> > > ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 02:59:48 PM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine & mag timing question --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com In a message dated 3/12/2003 12:54:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, RVer273sb@aol.com writes: << Don't forget to time the mag with the impulse coupling off of the impulse portion of rotation. >> huh? Kim Nicholas Do not archive ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 03:27:46 PM PST US From: Brian Huffaker Subject: Re: RV-List: Data Logger tests=EMAIL_ATTRIBUTION,IN_REP_TO,REFERENCES,SPAM_PHRASE_00_01, SUBJECT_IS_LIST,USER_AGENT_PINE version=2.43 --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Huffaker On Wed, 12 Mar 2003, Rob Prior wrote: For mine, I was thinking of mounting a camcorder somewhere it can see the panel, and taking the sound input from the intercom. Then just watch the video and type in the data. Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft@xmission.com) RV-8A 80091 Installing floor. 1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 03:37:41 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: first engine failure, need help --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > cleared and fired > back up, but I've also heard that fuel injectors are more > sensitive to water. I believe the opposite to be true - injected engines will cough and quit momentarily, but the water will be forced through and fuel flow restored. Carbs may hang up and never pass the water. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 265 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 03:39:32 PM PST US From: "Ed Bundy" Subject: Re: RV-List: Galls Flasher FS039 --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" I've used it in mine for several years now. I have it wired just as you suggest, and it works great. I have a landing light switch on the panel and I leave it on anytime the airplane is in motion. If I actually need steady landing lights, I just turn off the switch on the Gall's unit, which allows normal landing light functionality. Ed Bundy RV6a 550+ hours > Does anyone have actual experience with this flasher in an RV ? > Istead of hard wiring the flasher to the power and using the built-in switch > to control the lights, can you leave the built-in switch permanently on, and > install a switch on the instrument panel to control the power TO the unit > with the same functionality ? ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 03:41:14 PM PST US From: Laird Owens Subject: Re: RV-List: Data Logger --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens Someone mentioned a tape recorder. The ambient noise in the cockpit can make the tape hard to hear on playback. I used a remote mic to the recorder (radio shack special) and taped it in my earcup of my headset. Just talk normally into the boom mic and the intercom will transmit your voice to your earcups (via sidetone) and the remote mic pics up your voice very well, with little background noise. Just rattle off what you want to record. You can even get times if you do a start and stop and then time the recording later. It's amazing the stuff you mutter to yourself when your flying......especially on landing...."Jezz, could you bounce it any HIGHER???" Laird RV-6 Socal >--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior > >George's reply got me thinking about cheap alternatives... > >If you have a Digital Camera and a Handheld GPS (or any GPS that can >record a track log for you that you can download later) try this: > >1. Take a digital picture of your GPS' "clock" screen, so you have a >record of the difference between the GPS' clock and your Camera's clock. > >2. Set the GPS to record a track. > >3. Go flying. Occasionally take digital pictures of the entire panel or >individual instruments. Maybe tell your co-pilot to do it for you. > >4. Land, go home, open one of your favorite HFB's (HFB = Hop Flavoured >Beverage) and download the track and pictures to your computer. > >You should now have a track that says where and when you were, from >which you can determine ground speeds. You'll also be able to sort your >pictures by date/time. > >Sure, it means manual correlation and transcribing if what you wanted >was a set of numbers in a spreadsheet, but it might be simple enough and >cheap enough for your needs if you're only going to do it once (and the >HFB should make it go a little easier... 8-). > >-RB4 > >George McNutt wrote: >> Hi Dave >> >> If (inexpensive) is the key word, I usually take a small voice tape recorder >> to record test flight data. >> >> George McNutt >> Langley, B.C >> Flying > > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 03:45:25 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: handling the canopy --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 09:19 PM 3/11/2003 -0800, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" >Any advice is much appreciated! Don't install the plexiglass untill the very last. Be certain that the frame fits properly. Might cleco on side and aft strips with plexi washers under etc. Last means you are more skilled and less likely to drop stuff on it etc You don't even need it to paint do you? Only need plexi before flight. When I cut mine, I used the high speed cutoff wheel in a high speed grinder. Made fast passes not lingering on any portion to avoid heating plastic. Worked fine. Check the archives K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 03:58:01 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: More canopy questions. --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes Garry LeGare, a member of the list, is Mr Plastic Fantastic! He built an RV6 with a carbon fiber canopy frame. I haven't seen him or plane since finished but I hear the canopy if very rigid. He might do one for you for under $100,000. K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 04:00:43 PM PST US From: Bill Marvel Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine & mag timing question --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel Kim: That's why I suggested you get someone who knows what he is doing to help you. This is easy once you have been through it but trying to learn it by trial and error is asking for trouble. Bill Marvel Knicholas2@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com > > In a message dated 3/12/2003 12:54:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, > RVer273sb@aol.com writes: > > << Don't forget to time the mag with the impulse > coupling off of the impulse portion of rotation. > >> > > huh? > > Kim Nicholas > Do not archive > -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 04:07:05 PM PST US From: "Steve Kiekover" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 Wing conduit --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Kiekover" Hi Karie, I received an email from Todd Cameron with info. If you did not receive it let me know and I can forward it. He also supplied a picture. Thank Steve >From: "Karie Daniel" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 Wing conduit >Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 17:42:04 -0800 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" > >Steve, >I'm working on the same let us know what kind of responses you get offline. > >BTW.... I talked Vans about their wiring harness kit and the Waylon >lighting >system. Both of these have pretty detail instructions for wiring the >basics. >So they tell me. :-) > >Pretty pricy though. > >Karie >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Steve Kiekover" >To: >Subject: RV-List: RV7 Wing conduit > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Kiekover" > > > > > > I am working on my wing and plan on installing conduit for wiring. Can > > strobe hi voltage and com-nav cable be installed in same conduit? If not > > what alternatives are there. Thanks Steve > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 04:10:55 PM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine & mag timing question --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com In a message dated 3/12/2003 4:01:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, bmarvel@cox.net writes: << That's why I suggested you get someone who knows what he is doing to help you. >> I am getting some help by one of my EAA chapter co-members. I don't want to screw this up. Thank you to everyone who sent information and advice. Kim Nicholas DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 04:17:53 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: Good deals on hardware from B&B Aircraft --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes No doubt some good deals but I would avoid breakers and standard light plane switches entirely. Mine has electric Bob's fuse block with 20 fuses and a half a dozen little switches. Working fine at 100+ hours today after a bit of scud running in the canyons of the High Sierras. :-( K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 04:36:52 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: RV-List: O320 Hard to find oil leak --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes Is it acceptable or expected that an older O320 would leak some oil or is it an indication of some problem?? I think of cracked case etc? K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 05:29:26 PM PST US From: "Steven E. Croy" Subject: RE: RV-List: Scratches in Aluminum --> RV-List message posted by: "Steven E. Croy" The skins I was sent were dented from the straps. Eventhough I did not notice for a year, I called Van's and they split the cost of new ones. So if they were that nice to you it would be 67.27/2. I am anal as they come, even 67.27 is cheap compared to worrying about it and the time it would take to sand fill and fix. Steve HS-601 HORIZ. STAB. SKIN $63.50 HS-601PP HORIZ. STAB SKIN $79.67 HS-801PP HORIZ STAB SKIN $67.27 Steve RV8 (wings) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of linenwool@attbi.com Subject: RV-List: Scratches in Aluminum --> RV-List message posted by: linenwool@attbi.com How do you gauge if a scratch is too deep? My HS skin seems to have come with a scratch in it that is about 2 inches long. I might be able to sand it out but it would probably take something as course as 120 grit for how deep it is. and then more fine to polish it. Would this be acceptable for structural reasons? I can put it on the bottom and I'm sure the paint would cover it as well but I don't want to chance it if it is a safety issue. Also...uh oh, here we go.... is it a big deal not to prime the inside of the skins even though I've taken the time to prime all ribs and spars? Thanks, -Will Allen North Bend, Wa. RV8 emp ________________________________ Message 49 ____________________________________ Time: 05:35:28 PM PST US From: "Ernest Kells" Subject: RV-List: Riveting Baffles --> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" Can anyone tell me what kind of fasteners are specified in the normal Baffle Kit. Does it specify the normal 1/8" solid rivets, or something else? I am having to scratch build my baffles, without any instructions. So far, so good. I was thinking that I at least needed steel rivets (large head carbon steel pop rivets) to attach the baffle seal, similar to the Fab. Air Box. Thanks for any help. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 90% Complete ________________________________ Message 50 ____________________________________ Time: 06:06:43 PM PST US From: "Paul Stratman" Subject: RV-List: Re: Lycoming Service Bulletins-bad fuel pump --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" After talking to Lycoming today, They said: Well, it was a bad pump, but we brought it into conformance before installing it on your engine. Turns out, the service bulletin states that if this were done, there would be a letter "A" stamped after the date code on the flange of the pump. Nope, not there. So I went back out to the airport to check again and found what I think is the letter "A" stamped not after the date code, but on the flange on the other side of the pump. Great! So, all is good. Paul Stratman N21PS ________________________________ Message 51 ____________________________________ Time: 06:19:14 PM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: Re: RV-List: O320 Hard to find oil leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" > >--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes > >Is it acceptable or expected that an older O320 would leak some oil or is >it an indication of some problem?? I think of cracked case etc? > > >K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne >RV6-a N7HK flying! >PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) I've heard it said that the only Lycoming that doesn't leak is one that never runs! I get spits and dribbles from my engine too. Some engines stay fairly dry, and others just don't. A common leak source is around the nose section of the case, and at the crankshaft nose seal. Rocker covers can leak too. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________ Message 52 ____________________________________ Time: 06:27:15 PM PST US From: "Paul Stratman" Subject: RV-List: Gyros and VSI for Sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" Import Attitude Gyro with adjustable wing for level flight and Import Directional Gyro, new-$340.00 My price $250.00 each 0-3000 fpm VSI from Van's unlit My price $90.00 All items used for 250 hrs-all work perfectly. Upgrading to Digital. pauls@kc.rr.com or call 816-734-1538 Paul Stratman N21PS ________________________________ Message 53 ____________________________________ Time: 06:33:03 PM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: More canopy questions. --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" >From: kempthornes > > >Garry LeGare, a member of the list, is Mr Plastic Fantastic! He built an >RV6 with a carbon fiber canopy frame. I haven't seen him or plane since >finished but I hear the canopy if very rigid. He might do one for you for >under $100,000. Well, I guess I don't quite know just how to take the above comment but if you want a carbon fiber pink flamino just tell me how large you want it........I'm figuring with the carbon fiber I have in my shop, $10 worth of resin should do it. If someone has some insight into the questions, I would appreciate a response. Is what I am thinking even needed or is the skirt a non issue. The skirt and the timing of the installation of the glare screen are an issue I need to rectify in the next 3-4 days. Any help is appreciated. Dana Overall Richmond, KY http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 54 ____________________________________ Time: 06:36:16 PM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting Baffles --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" They make a large headed aluminum 1/8" pop that works very well. Try a paint and body supply store. You can also use a 1/8 aluminum washer on a regular aluminum pop next to the rubber baffle material. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ernest Kells" Subject: RV-List: Riveting Baffles > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" > > Can anyone tell me what kind of fasteners are specified in the normal > Baffle Kit. Does it specify the normal 1/8" solid rivets, or something > else? I am having to scratch build my baffles, without any instructions. > So far, so good. I was thinking that I at least needed steel rivets (large > head carbon steel pop rivets) to attach the baffle seal, similar to the Fab. > Air Box. Thanks for any help. > Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop > Finish Kit 90% Complete > > ________________________________ Message 55 ____________________________________ Time: 07:06:15 PM PST US From: "Richard Sipp" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dyon Mounting --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" > I must admit to the same concerns. I reallly.....seriously want one of > these units to replace my sucky, whiney, rolly polly gyros. Unfortunately, > it will take more work than I thought: I don't have enough space between the > neighboring instruments for the face bezel to fit. I would have to recut > the panel. Ack. Or, use the flush mount option, which I'd rather not use. > > For folks out there with a standard six cluster, and who want to pop one of > these units in place of the AI or DG, be sure you check the dimensions as > provided on the Dynon website. > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD Why couldn't we put a couple of washers between the Dyon mounting flange and the panel cockpit surface side and then a couple of washers between the back side of the panel and the adjacent other instruments. This would elevate the Dyon EFIS and recess the adjacent instruments. Seems like this might work for initial testing. If all goes well then build a new panel with a whole bunch of other goodies GNC 530, autopilot.....:) Dick Sipp RV4 250DS ________________________________ Message 56 ____________________________________ Time: 08:59:08 PM PST US From: ranchspinner@Webtv.net (Mary L Bradley) Subject: RV-List: Prop wanted! --> RV-List message posted by: ranchspinner@webtv.net (Mary L Bradley) L@@KIN' for a Sensenich 70 CM 7S9-0-79. anyone up grading to a C/S? Please Email me. Dave RV9A Colorado ________________________________ Message 57 ____________________________________ Time: 10:12:14 PM PST US From: "Matthew Orr" Subject: Re: RV-List: Data Logger --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" Has anyone thought about writing a data acquisition program in something such as Labview or Matlab and just running everything through a DAQ card in a laptop? This could be done for a couple thousand dollars and be practical. You could put a couple transducers in the pitot/static system and other systems to measure pressures. (oil, MP, etc.) Then one could use some thermocouples to get whatever temperature data you need. (OAT,EGT,CHT, etc.) I haven't read about anyone taking this approach for a homebuilt flight test, but perhaps I just didn't notice. . If someone has already written a program it would make life easier. For the flight testing process the weight penalty shouldn't be a large issue. Matt (-7) Do not archive