Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:57 AM - Center Armrest/Console Ideas (David Sundberg)
2. 06:19 AM - Re: O320 Hard to find oil leak (John Bright)
3. 06:19 AM - Re: Data Logger (Phil Birkelbach)
4. 06:24 AM - Re: Data Logger (Ed Holyoke)
5. 06:29 AM - oil leaks (Wheeler North)
6. 06:42 AM - Flaps (Wheeler North)
7. 06:47 AM - Re: Center Armrest/Console Ideas (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
8. 07:06 AM - Re: Data Logger (Chris)
9. 07:09 AM - Re: Center Armrest/Console Ideas (Chris)
10. 07:12 AM - Re: Data Logger (Dave von Linsowe)
11. 07:35 AM - Re: Center Armrest/Console Ideas (Phil)
12. 07:52 AM - Re: Data Logger (Ollie Washburn)
13. 08:08 AM - Re: Riveting Baffles (Gary)
14. 08:20 AM - Re: Center Armrest/Console Ideas (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
15. 08:41 AM - Re: Flaps (Garry LeGare)
16. 09:49 AM - Sealing fuel leaks from the outside (John Allen)
17. 09:53 AM - Re: Scratches in Aluminum (LarryRobertHelming)
18. 10:07 AM - Re: Good deals on hardware from B&B Aircraft (czechsix@juno.com)
19. 10:48 AM - Connector pinout for Narco Com 810, 811?? (kempthornes)
20. 10:56 AM - Re: Center Armrest/Console Ideas (HCRV6@aol.com)
21. 11:38 AM - Re: Center Armrest/Console Ideas (Patrick Kelley)
22. 12:25 PM - Re: SkyTec Starter (Bob)
23. 01:32 PM - Re: SkyTec Starter (HCRV6@aol.com)
24. 01:49 PM - Re: SkyTec Starter (Jim Cimino)
25. 02:10 PM - Re: SkyTec Starter (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
26. 03:05 PM - >Re: Engine and Mag Timing Question (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
27. 03:13 PM - Re: Dynon mounting (Arthur Nation)
28. 03:20 PM - Re: SkyTec Starter (Garth Shearing)
29. 04:34 PM - RV6 Project for Sale (Bobpaulo@aol.com)
30. 04:42 PM - engine failure solved (Rvmils@aol.com)
31. 05:01 PM - Narco Pin out (Chris Fordham)
32. 05:28 PM - ACS2002 Data Logger (RobHickman@aol.com)
33. 05:34 PM - Re: Flaps (Vince Himsl)
34. 06:14 PM - Re: Flaps (Alex Peterson)
35. 09:06 PM - Re: SkyTec Starter (RV6 Flyer)
36. 11:02 PM - Re: Re: Dynon mounting (Randall Henderson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Center Armrest/Console Ideas |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Sundberg" <david_fs@hotmail.com>
I'm looking for innovative ideas for constructing an armrest/console between the
seats of my 7A. Mike Stewart has a nice armrest but his website has only one
picture of it taken after his beautiful interior was completed.....Mike, any
additional info/pics on it?
I know there are lots of great design modifications out there and would appreciate
reading/seeing your ideas. Thanks.............
Dave
7A Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: O320 Hard to find oil leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Bright <johninvaus@yahoo.com>
I read a fascinating story about a Lyconming engine
that had a cracked crankshaft... symptom was leaking
oil... the guy assumed it was the shaft seal and would
fail gracefully... then one day it leaked too fast to
keep the airplane up... good lesson on assumptions.
Cause was a defect on the ID of the crank where
someone had clamped a welding cable 15 years earlier
to weld the crankcase.
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
This is just a thought and it may not help people that have already picked
thier instrumentation but the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids EIS Engine
monitor both have serial ports that output data. I intend to carry a
notebook computer with a few serial ports on it, sync the clocks of these
two instruments to the GPS and record the data in the computer. Then it's a
no brainer to extract the data that you want.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Data Logger
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
>
> Has anyone thought about writing a data acquisition program in
something
> such as Labview or Matlab and just running everything through a DAQ card
in
> a laptop? This could be done for a couple thousand dollars and be
> practical.
>
> You could put a couple transducers in the pitot/static system and
other
> systems to measure pressures. (oil, MP, etc.) Then one could use some
> thermocouples to get whatever temperature data you need. (OAT,EGT,CHT,
etc.)
> I haven't read about anyone taking this approach for a homebuilt flight
> test, but perhaps I just didn't notice. .
>
> If someone has already written a program it would make life easier.
For
> the flight testing process the weight penalty shouldn't be a large issue.
>
> Matt
> (-7)
>
> Do not archive
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Take a look at:
http://www.flightperformance.com/flight_performance_recorder.htm
Ed Holyoke
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Orr
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 10:10 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Data Logger
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
>
> Has anyone thought about writing a data acquisition program in
> something
> such as Labview or Matlab and just running everything through a DAQ
card
> in
> a laptop? This could be done for a couple thousand dollars and be
> practical.
>
> You could put a couple transducers in the pitot/static system and
> other
> systems to measure pressures. (oil, MP, etc.) Then one could use some
> thermocouples to get whatever temperature data you need. (OAT,EGT,CHT,
> etc.)
> I haven't read about anyone taking this approach for a homebuilt
flight
> test, but perhaps I just didn't notice. .
>
> If someone has already written a program it would make life
easier.
> For
> the flight testing process the weight penalty shouldn't be a large
issue.
>
> Matt
> (-7)
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Aft engine oil leaks are also found on studs that penetrate the accessory
case. The oil wicks out along the threads.
These can be a bear to seek out and destroy.
I've also seen some cases with areas of porosity, the oil just seeps right
through very slowly, but all the NDT in the world shows no crack. This is
why a washdown prior to every condition inspection is good.
Now with that said, good luck with the leaf lickers and Flipper flamers when
you go to wash it. ;{)
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Good thread on flaps,
can you tell me if the grease condition acted intermittantly?
Mine for some time now have been getting stuck occasionally, then when I go
at it with a meter they start working, every time. I've been hesitant to
just start throwing repairs at it until I'm more certain of the problem. And
I now have about 250 hours on the flap motor.
w
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Center Armrest/Console Ideas |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Dave,
I have updated my website with new better pictures of the center console
this morning for you. Check the interior section again.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: David Sundberg [mailto:david_fs@hotmail.com]
Subject: RV-List: Center Armrest/Console Ideas
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Sundberg" <david_fs@hotmail.com>
I'm looking for innovative ideas for constructing an armrest/console between
the seats of my 7A. Mike Stewart has a nice armrest but his website has
only one picture of it taken after his beautiful interior was
completed.....Mike, any additional info/pics on it?
I know there are lots of great design modifications out there and would
appreciate reading/seeing your ideas. Thanks.............
Dave
7A Fuselage
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
Matthew Orr wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
>
> Has anyone thought about writing a data acquisition program in something
> such as Labview or Matlab and just running everything through a DAQ card in
> a laptop? This could be done for a couple thousand dollars and be
> practical.
>
> You could put a couple transducers in the pitot/static system and other
> systems to measure pressures. (oil, MP, etc.) Then one could use some
> thermocouples to get whatever temperature data you need. (OAT,EGT,CHT, etc.)
> I haven't read about anyone taking this approach for a homebuilt flight
> test, but perhaps I just didn't notice. .
>
> If someone has already written a program it would make life easier. For
> the flight testing process the weight penalty shouldn't be a large issue.
I'm a computer programmer and I am still a ways away from starting my project
but if someone in the OKC area has the hardware I would be happy to help write
the software.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Center Armrest/Console Ideas |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
what is your web site?
do not archive
mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Dave,
> I have updated my website with new better pictures of the center console
> this morning for you. Check the interior section again.
>
> Mike
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
This may not be the cheapest way to go, but it sure looks like the best way
to go!
BTW, I still have a couple of turn key T.O.C. airplanes for sale. hint,
hint...
Dave
RV-6
The need for (more) speed---->
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Data Logger
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Take a look at:
>
> http://www.flightperformance.com/flight_performance_recorder.htm
>
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Orr
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 10:10 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Data Logger
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Orr" <morr@vt.edu>
> >
> > Has anyone thought about writing a data acquisition program in
> > something
> > such as Labview or Matlab and just running everything through a DAQ
> card
> > in
> > a laptop? This could be done for a couple thousand dollars and be
> > practical.
> >
> > You could put a couple transducers in the pitot/static system and
> > other
> > systems to measure pressures. (oil, MP, etc.) Then one could use some
> > thermocouples to get whatever temperature data you need. (OAT,EGT,CHT,
> > etc.)
> > I haven't read about anyone taking this approach for a homebuilt
> flight
> > test, but perhaps I just didn't notice. .
> >
> > If someone has already written a program it would make life
> easier.
> > For
> > the flight testing process the weight penalty shouldn't be a large
> issue.
> >
> > Matt
> > (-7)
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Center Armrest/Console Ideas |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil" <Phil@camsnet.com>
Mike,
What is the link to the Website?
Phil
Dave,
I have updated my website with new better pictures of the center console
this morning for you. Check the interior section again.
Mike
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator@msn.com>
AND hopefully soon Grand Rapids Technology will have their EFIS out which also
will have a serial port. Take a look at what looks fantastic.
Ollie--------6A--------Central Fl.
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Birkelbach
Subject: Re: RV-List: Data Logger
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
This is just a thought and it may not help people that have already picked
thier instrumentation but the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids EIS Engine
monitor both have serial ports that output data.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting Baffles |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
05:35:28 PM PST US
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Riveting Baffles
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
Can anyone tell me what kind of fasteners are specified in the normal
Baffle Kit. Does it specify the normal 1/8" solid rivets, or something
else? I am having to scratch build my baffles, without any instructions.
So far, so good. I was thinking that I at least needed steel rivets (large
head carbon steel pop rivets) to attach the baffle seal, similar to the Fab.
Air Box. Thanks for any help.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 90% Complete
Earnest........I had just decided to abandon the large headed steel pop rivets
in the baffle kit for some other option. The ones in the kit are indeed the same
as the ones in the FAB kit. I didn' t like them because they pull so hard.
They tended to crush the fiberglass, and I see on some finished baffle installations
that they really distort the aluminum baffles, too. Seems to be that
a big pucker around the fastener would not result in a good seal between the
baffle and baffle seal.
Also, what is it going to be like to drill those hard steel suckers out if you
ever want to replace the baffle seal?
Think I'll use #6 machine screws with washers.
Gary
---
Message 14
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| Subject: | Center Armrest/Console Ideas |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris [mailto:chrisw3@cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Center Armrest/Console Ideas
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
what is your web site?
do not archive
mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Dave,
> I have updated my website with new better pictures of the center console
> this morning for you. Check the interior section again.
>
> Mike
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Garry LeGare <versadek@earthlink.net>
Yes, one time they would work they next time they wouldn't, it acted like the
switch was failing. If you jiggled the switch and held your tongue just right
the flaps would work. As I said earlier, this started this on the trip to
Langley last year. As soon as I got home I fixed the problem, as I didn't want
to be stuck somewhere with the flaps partly or completely down.
If you take the motor apart be very careful as the brush holder is also the end
cap and the brushes are quite small.
To get the brushes back in place after cleaning them and the com, you'll have to
hold them in place compressed against the spring pressure with a piece of fine
wire.
Good luck, Doing my annual.
Casper
Wheeler North wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Good thread on flaps,
>
> can you tell me if the grease condition acted intermittantly?
>
> Mine for some time now have been getting stuck occasionally, then when I go
> at it with a meter they start working, every time. I've been hesitant to
> just start throwing repairs at it until I'm more certain of the problem. And
> I now have about 250 hours on the flap motor.
>
> w
>
> do not archive
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Sealing fuel leaks from the outside |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Allen <fliier@yahoo.com>
To fix a weeping rivet this is what I did
Drained tank completely.
Put a spot facing bit in my microstop and removed the paint directly over the rivet.
Bought a small transfer pump used for transferring liquids from an auto parts store.
Hooked the inlet tube over the fuel tank vent and pumped until I had a
SMALL!! vacuum in the tank. You know you have a vacuum when you depress the fuel
drain and hear a slight hiss.
Applied Loctite 290 (Green) over the leaking rivet. This is available at auto
parts or hardware stores.
Since then I have had no leaks.
John Allen
RV-6A
---------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Scratches in Aluminum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Vans seems to meet us at least half way. Glad to hear you got it resolved.
You will find use for the bad skins. Trust me on that.
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up O-360 3XG reserved.
Working on Canopy of Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven E. Croy" <scroy@houston.rr.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Scratches in Aluminum
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steven E. Croy" <scroy@houston.rr.com>
>
> The skins I was sent were dented from the straps. Eventhough I did not
> notice for a year, I called Van's and they split the cost of new ones. So
> if they were that nice to you it would be 67.27/2. I am anal as they
come,
> even 67.27 is cheap compared to worrying about it and the time it would
take
> to sand fill and fix.
> Steve
>
> HS-601 HORIZ. STAB. SKIN $63.50
> HS-601PP HORIZ. STAB SKIN $79.67
> HS-801PP HORIZ STAB SKIN $67.27
>
> Steve RV8 (wings)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> linenwool@attbi.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com; rv8-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Scratches in Aluminum
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: linenwool@attbi.com
>
> How do you gauge if a scratch is too deep? My HS skin seems to have come
> with
> a scratch in it that is about 2 inches long. I might be able to sand it
out
> but it would probably take something as course as 120 grit for how deep it
> is.
> and then more fine to polish it. Would this be acceptable for structural
> reasons? I can put it on the bottom and I'm sure the paint would cover it
as
> well but I don't want to chance it if it is a safety issue.
>
> Also...uh oh, here we go.... is it a big deal not to prime the inside of
> the
> skins even though I've taken the time to prime all ribs and spars?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, Wa.
> RV8 emp
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Good deals on hardware from B&B Aircraft |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Don't worry....I'm using fuse blocks too, but remember 'lectric Bob also recommends
a 5 A circuit breaker for the alternator field. That's what I got at B&B...
--Mark Navratil
Ceda Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf and wiring...
From: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Good deals on hardware from B&B Aircraft
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
No doubt some good deals but I would avoid breakers and standard light
plane switches entirely. Mine has electric Bob's fuse block with 20 fuses
and a half a dozen little switches. Working fine at 100+ hours today after
a bit of scud running in the canyons of the High Sierras. :-(
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 19
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| Subject: | Connector pinout for Narco Com 810, 811?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Anyone have one or know where I can find one?
Put another way, what wires go to which position in the connector.?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Center Armrest/Console Ideas |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/13/03 6:49:21 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mstewart@qa.butler.com writes:
<< Dave,
I have updated my website with new better pictures of the center console
this morning for you. Check the interior section again.
Mike >>
Hey Mike, how about posting your web site address so that we can all see how
you did your console. Thanks.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 21
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| Subject: | Center Armrest/Console Ideas |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
If you were frustrated by the lack of links for Finishing, etc., click
on the dials next to the section you want. Mike is using a script which
expands the choices, but does not change your cursor when you are over
it, so you may not realize it is clickable. Took me a moment even
though I have seen this on many sites.
Nice site, Mike, I spent some time looking. BTW, it's tonneau...
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - fuselage j-stringers being fitted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
mstewart@qa.butler.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Center Armrest/Console Ideas
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris [mailto:chrisw3@cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Center Armrest/Console Ideas
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
what is your web site?
do not archive
mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Dave,
> I have updated my website with new better pictures of the center
console
> this morning for you. Check the interior section again.
>
> Mike
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: SkyTec Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
A comment on my experiences with the SkyTec starter.
At 70 hours it had to be overhauled. Still under warranty, SkyTec told me
my warranty did not apply because the damage to the starter was due to
kickback.
SkyTec stated that kickback is specifically not covered by the warranty and
the kickback was caused because of incorrect Mag timing.
I had my A&P IA, not me, retime the Mags, installed overhauled SkyTec
starter and at 73 hours it quit again. Installed an old Delco-Remy (30+
years old) it works great. Only drawback is that it is 10 pounds
heavier. Which in my RV6, is not a drawback but a plus due to the tail
heavy nature of my aircraft.
I have an IO 360 A1A 180 hp engine, with two mags, no electronic
ignition. If anyone wants a SkyTec starter that does not work (it can be
overhauled), I will sell for $150. Otherwise I will use the starter as a
wheel chock!
Bob
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: SkyTec Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/13/03 12:27:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
panamared2@brier.net writes:
<< At 70 hours it had to be overhauled. Still under warranty, SkyTec told me
my warranty did not apply because the damage to the starter was due to
kickback. >>
Bob, any chance the kickback could be happening because the SkyTec spins the
engine fast enough for the non-retarded mag to fire? "Lectric Bob has warned
of this and suggests ways to prevent it in his schematics.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: SkyTec Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
I have a Skytech on an IO-360 with about 100hrs and no problems. My
ignition switch cancels the right mag during cranking.
Jim
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
80+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SkyTec Starter
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 3/13/03 12:27:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> panamared2@brier.net writes:
>
> << At 70 hours it had to be overhauled. Still under warranty, SkyTec told
me
> my warranty did not apply because the damage to the starter was due to
> kickback. >>
>
> Bob, any chance the kickback could be happening because the SkyTec spins
the
> engine fast enough for the non-retarded mag to fire? "Lectric Bob has
warned
> of this and suggests ways to prevent it in his schematics.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, firewall forward
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: SkyTec Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared2@brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SkyTec Starter
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>
> A comment on my experiences with the SkyTec starter.
>
> At 70 hours it had to be overhauled. Still under warranty, SkyTec told me
> my warranty did not apply because the damage to the starter was due to
> kickback.
>
> SkyTec stated that kickback is specifically not covered by the warranty
and
> the kickback was caused because of incorrect Mag timing.
>
> I had my A&P IA, not me, retime the Mags, installed overhauled SkyTec
> starter and at 73 hours it quit again. Installed an old Delco-Remy (30+
> years old) it works great. Only drawback is that it is 10 pounds
> heavier. Which in my RV6, is not a drawback but a plus due to the tail
> heavy nature of my aircraft.
>
> I have an IO 360 A1A 180 hp engine, with two mags, no electronic
> ignition. If anyone wants a SkyTec starter that does not work (it can be
> overhauled), I will sell for $150. Otherwise I will use the starter as a
> wheel chock!
>
> Bob
Bob: Get a B & C starter. I've used mine for 10 years. Flawless.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: >Re: Engine and Mag Timing Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Bill Marvel said it ALL.
Get someone who knows what they are doing - AND has a magneto syncronizer to
set them with !!!! The mags MUST be set to fire properly in relation to each
other too.
Burned pistons .broken conn rods , etc can come from the
'By Guess & By Gosh' methods.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
Hi list,
I measured the panel cutouts, in a not yet installed panel. Same problem, no
room.However it occurred to me that, since I have no instruments yet, I could
mount it where the AH would go and simply cover the unused holes. It appears
to substitute for most flight instruments anyway. In a six-pak configuration,
the turn coordinator could remain and even the VSI. Lower left and right.
Same for an existing panel .Remove the unused instruments, cover the holes,
reconnect to the Dynon and fly away.
Arthur
do not archive
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: SkyTec Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Garth Shearing" <garth@islandnet.com>
A non-impulse magneto may start to fire at about 100 rpm. An impulse
magneto should fire at top dead centre (TDC) up to about 150 rpm. It should
never fire at TDC above 450 rpm. The impulse coupling may be intermittent
between these two rpm's.
The bottom line is that either type of magneto could be the source of your
problem if the starter spins the engine above 150 rpm. The starter rpm's
depend upon the size and quality of the battery, starting temperatures, and
the size of the starter wiring. Do the starter manufacturers specify this?
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
>
> Bob, any chance the kickback could be happening because the SkyTec spins
the
> engine fast enough for the non-retarded mag to fire? "Lectric Bob has
warned
> of this and suggests ways to prevent it in his schematics.
>
> Harry Crosby
Message 29
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| Subject: | RV6 Project for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobpaulo@aol.com
I have a completed RV6 airframe and finish kit. The wings, tail and fuselage
(primed) are fitted and on gear. The yokes, cables, rudders/brakes, wiring
(all the plumbing) has been completed. The panel has been completed minus
avionics. A tip-up canopy has been installed along with all the fiberglass
work completed/installed. The workmanship is first class from an experienced
RV builder. Hang an engine and go fly or keep the Mazda engine which has been
installed along with appropriate instrumentation. Obviously this aircraft was
in the final stages of completion. I have located the construction photos and
builders logs. Contact me off list for more details and photos. Serious
inquiries only.
18K
Thanks,
Bob
Message 30
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| Subject: | engine failure solved |
rv8-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Rvmils@aol.com
After trouble shooting the system, it turn out to be my fuel injector. I
pick it up from Southeast Fuel Systems today and the problem was the bellows
assembly. I bought this servo when I had my engine overhauled. The servo
was overhauled by a company in Alabama, not sure the name, but they used a
few after market PMA parts and Bill from Southeast seems to think that was
the problem. The bellows assembly was stainless, instead of brass/berillum
and I had excessive wear on a spacer.
Just glad it happen a 600 ft in the pattern. My biggest concern was the lack
of warning of the impending failure and the fact that I could not catch the
problem on any of my inspections.
I appreciate the help and use most of the ideals to trouble shoot the
problem.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Fordham" <consult@island.net>
Hal check NARCO's website http://www.narco-avionics.com/
Chris RV-4
Message 32
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| Subject: | ACS2002 Data Logger |
--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
With the ACS2002 Engine Monitor you can get the last 2 hours of data recorded every
5 seconds from the serial port. All data is recorded including trim and
flap positions.
www.Advanced-Control-Systems.com
Rob Hickman
N401RH RV-4 (225+ Hours)
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Regarding erratic flap motor operation:
When a DC motor or relay coil is suddenly deenergized, there is a
residual voltage opposite in polarity to the applied voltage that
remains. This counter emf voltage tends to cause a lot of the problems
you are describing.
If you observe the flap wiring diagram at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/flaps.pdf you will notice that each
time the flap motor is deenergized, both terminals are grounded thus
allowing this counter EMF to dissipate through ground.
So...I suspect implementing in some fashion the grounding technique at
the above web site will solve your problems.
At least this is my crude understanding of it.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 (SB) fuselage/finish
Idaho USA
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Regarding erratic flap motor operation:
>
> When a DC motor or relay coil is suddenly deenergized, there
> is a residual voltage opposite in polarity to the applied
> voltage that remains. This counter emf voltage tends to
> cause a lot of the problems you are describing.
How does it cause these problems?
Normally, the only reason one needs to short the motor leads after
energizing is to make it act as a brake, and that is not needed in this
case.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 265 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: SkyTec Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Bob:
Is this the permanent magnet starter? If it is and you have not sold the
starter, I will give you $50 for it. Contact me off list.
I have used a SkyTec starter since day one on my RV-6. At about 1,000
hours, the solenoid went out. The same starter is still flying with a new
solenoid 5.5 years later.
If your non-impulse mag is not grounded out during starting, you will have
the problem of breaking the housing from the case.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,255 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SkyTec Starter
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
A comment on my experiences with the SkyTec starter.
At 70 hours it had to be overhauled. Still under warranty, SkyTec told me
my warranty did not apply because the damage to the starter was due to
kickback.
SkyTec stated that kickback is specifically not covered by the warranty and
the kickback was caused because of incorrect Mag timing.
I had my A&P IA, not me, retime the Mags, installed overhauled SkyTec
starter and at 73 hours it quit again. Installed an old Delco-Remy (30+
years old) it works great. Only drawback is that it is 10 pounds
heavier. Which in my RV6, is not a drawback but a plus due to the tail
heavy nature of my aircraft.
I have an IO 360 A1A 180 hp engine, with two mags, no electronic
ignition. If anyone wants a SkyTec starter that does not work (it can be
overhauled), I will sell for $150. Otherwise I will use the starter as a
wheel chock!
Bob
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
A panel blank is only like $30.... seems to me now's the time to do that
rather than later....
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arthur Nation" <anation@eskimo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Dynon mounting
> --> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
>
> Hi list,
> I measured the panel cutouts, in a not yet installed panel. Same problem,
no
> room.However it occurred to me that, since I have no instruments yet, I
could
> mount it where the AH would go and simply cover the unused holes.
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