Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:24 AM - Re: Brake pedal geom (N13eer@aol.com)
2. 06:22 AM - items for sale--SOLD (Don Wilson)
3. 07:07 AM - Re: N256GD FLYS (Rob Miller)
4. 07:10 AM - Radio Noise (revisited) (Dan DeNeal)
5. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: O320 Hard to find oil leak (RV_8 Pilot)
6. 07:25 AM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 03/15/03 (RV_8 Pilot)
7. 07:30 AM - Re: Running Drugs in your RV... (RV_8 Pilot)
8. 07:31 AM - Re: N256GD FLYS (C. Rabaut)
9. 07:38 AM - Re: Brake pedal geom (SportAV8R@aol.com)
10. 08:15 AM - Running drugs in your RV (Jim Truitt)
11. 08:24 AM - wing tip screws (Scott Bilinski)
12. 08:37 AM - Re: Brake pedal geom (Randall Henderson)
13. 08:41 AM - Re: PTT Switch (Randall Henderson)
14. 08:47 AM - Re: wing tip screws (Randall Henderson)
15. 08:59 AM - Re:Wingtip Screws (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
16. 09:11 AM - Re:RV-4 Cowling (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
17. 09:33 AM - Re: wing tip screws (Larry Pardue)
18. 09:55 AM - Re: wing tip screws (Elsa & Henry)
19. 10:30 AM - Re: wing tip screws (Scott Bilinski)
20. 10:50 AM - Re: Radio Noise (revisited) (kempthornes)
21. 11:32 AM - Antenna locations (Rick Galati)
22. 11:47 AM - Re: Antenna locations (Canyon)
23. 01:43 PM - Re: Antenna locations (Rick Galati)
24. 01:47 PM - Re: Tubes (Gary)
25. 02:26 PM - Oil Cooler Air Duct (John)
26. 03:21 PM - Re: Re: Antenna locations (Canyon)
27. 03:22 PM - Re: wing tip screws (Lenleg@aol.com)
28. 04:41 PM - Operating Limitations (Eric Whiteside)
29. 04:45 PM - Fw: Re: GX-65 Intercom (Arthur Nation)
30. 04:45 PM - Fw: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/17/03 (C. Rabaut)
31. 06:30 PM - Re: Re: Antenna locations (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
32. 06:51 PM - KY97A radio has been sold (eregensburg)
33. 07:18 PM - Hole In Skin (Glenn Brasch)
34. 07:30 PM - Re: Antenna locations (Bill Marvel)
35. 07:41 PM - Re: Hole In Skin (Dan Checkoway)
36. 07:49 PM - Re: Hole In Skin (Tom Gummo)
37. 07:49 PM - Re: Antenna locations (Alex Peterson)
38. 07:58 PM - Fw: Hole In Skin (Ralph E. Capen)
39. 08:02 PM - Hole in Skin Resolved (Glenn Brasch)
40. 09:09 PM - Re: Operating Limitations (Randall Henderson)
41. 09:12 PM - Break pedal geom (Gary Graham)
42. 09:13 PM - Re: Hole In Skin (Randall Henderson)
43. 09:13 PM - Engine help (Karen and Robert Brown)
44. 09:18 PM - Re: Hole In Skin (Jim Jewell)
45. 09:27 PM - Break pedal geom (Gary Graham)
46. 10:06 PM - Re: Operating Limitations (Tom Gummo)
47. 11:39 PM - Re: Fw: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/17/03 (Ken And Gretchen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Brake pedal geom |
--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
In a message dated 3/17/2003 9:37:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, akroguy@hotmail.com
writes:
> Still get brake pressure. I might rivet
> on some angles or combination of angle and half round tube to move the foot
> contact point on the pedals aft and down an inch or so. We'll see how
> Randy's mods work out and if successful, I'll shamelessly
> copy!
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
Brian,
This is what I did after taxi testing. I used 3/4 0.063 angle and tube (I think
it was left over from one of the push rods that I cut to the wrong length).
I cut the tube in half and had parts for both pedals. Now I only hear the squeak
when I use my toes. The mod only took about an hour and I did not even have
to remove the bagage floor.
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8, 15 hours
Message 2
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| Subject: | items for sale--SOLD |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Wilson <dcwilson@budget.net>
The Hobbyair 1 and spray gun are sold. Thanks to all who were
interested. Don
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Congrats Dan!
What an accomplishment!! Welcome to the club!!!
Enjoy the fruits of your labor. You are going to have a ball with this
airplane.
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 50 hours
Do Not Archive
--- Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> After a couple of high speed taxies today I realized
> that it takes a lot of right rudder to keep it down
> the middle. With that thought I shoved the throttle
> forward and up I went. My next thought was "okay, that
> was easy, now can you land this thing." So before
> landing I just enjoyed the moment(s). Flew it for 1/2
> hour and brought it back in on the mile long runway
> and just let it settle down. Tires squecked! and then
> I had to call everbody on the my cell phone.
>
> After 8 1/2 years "IT REALLY DOES FLY"
>
> Dan DeNeal
> RV6a N256GD
> Hobbs meter blew a fuse?? today? So I still have 25
> hours to burn off.
>
> http://platinum.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Radio Noise (revisited) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
In the archives I found Donald Nowakowski talking
about the noise he gets when he keys the mic on his
Icom A-200 radio.
I too have the same problem with my Icom A-200 radio
and a friend at the airport flying a Thorp has an Icom
A-200 radio with the same problem. Receiving is
excellent, transmitting noise get so extreme that it
hurts my ears to key the mic.
I also found that Pat Perry had the problem and
corrected it with a better headset.
Any other ideas!!
Dan DeNeal
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: O320 Hard to find oil leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
a little late replying, but my O-320-E2A (high comp pistons, CS prop) has
leaked at the front main seal almost from day one (since I overhauled it).
I've changed the seal two times in 460 hrs and now I have one that only
seeps a little. Not sure what the deal is, but may be related to the CS
prop arrgt. it's a little messy, but managable.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
>From: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: O320 Hard to find oil leak
>Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 15:12:45 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>...guess you've never owned a british air-cooled motorcycle, or a Harley
>for
>that matter. They are also "externally lubricated"... :)
>
>Jerry Cochran
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 03/15/03 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Also, don't reply. Then they'll know they have a good email address. Just
delete.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
>From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 03/15/03
>Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 12:44:34 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
>All should note that this type of scam, those most often from a so-called
>Nigerian official "grand puh bah" of sorts, is not limited to Nigeria.
>
>I have received similar email scams from other countries as well. So ...
>"be
>careful out there".
>
>James
>
>
>[SNIP]
> >
> > About those Nigerian Bank Check Scammers, The same thing
>[SNIP]
>
> > So you fellow RV drivers, tell your friends to be
> > wary of this
> > scam and anything else concerning purchasing coming out of that place.
> >
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Running Drugs in your RV... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Was on a charter fishing trip once when we had engine trouble coming back
in. We stopped and started once or twice. Guess who met us at the entrance
to the port area? Polite but fairly thorough little get together with the
USCG. spotted "unusual, erratic" movement on their radar as it turned out.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Dan,
My old AP-IA (in his 80's) says that for every hour on your Hobbs, you
get two added to your life span.
Happy flying,
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: N256GD FLYS
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> After a couple of high speed taxies today I realized
> that it takes a lot of right rudder to keep it down
> the middle. With that thought I shoved the throttle
> forward and up I went. My next thought was "okay, that
> was easy, now can you land this thing." So before
> landing I just enjoyed the moment(s). Flew it for 1/2
> hour and brought it back in on the mile long runway
> and just let it settle down. Tires squecked! and then
> I had to call everbody on the my cell phone.
>
> After 8 1/2 years "IT REALLY DOES FLY"
>
> Dan DeNeal
> RV6a N256GD
> Hobbs meter blew a fuse?? today? So I still have 25
> hours to burn off.
>
> http://platinum.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Brake pedal geom |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
I have learned to press my feet against the outside frame of the rudder pedal
assembly when I need only rudder input, and to slide my feet inward onto the
brake pedals as needed, during ground ops. Otherwise there is definite brake
application happening. I placed a split length of radiator hose over the
bottom cross-tubes to try to keep my feet off the brake pedals when using
rudder, but was never impressed that it helped much.
This foot placement habit is so ingrained in me now that I keep my feet
against the outside of the pedal frame even when airborn, unless I
consciously tell myself, "okay, we can place our feet squarely on the pedals
now; a little inadvertent brake application at 3000 feet AGL won't hurt
anything until we touch down..."
Bill B
Message 10
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| Subject: | Running drugs in your RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov>
I hope you don't take your experience too hard, Alan. As a law
enforcement officer, it warms my heart to hear that some people still get
involved and report suspicious behavior.
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I remember reading a while back about what size screws people use on their
wing tips. Some said 4-40 others 6-32. There are plenty of 6-32 nut plates
but the question is, where does one find nut plates for 4-40 screws? If
4-40's are being used to retain the wing tips what are they threaded into
if not nut plates?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Brake pedal geom |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
One solution is to slit a brake hose and slip it over the cross-tube, held
in place with wire ties or safety wire.
I haven't done it myself -- it doesn't seem to be an issue. I did move my
pedals up and back to accomodate my long legs and gunboat feet. But I have
to admit I still probably ride the brakes a bit without realizing it.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
Ya the switch they used was crap anyway. I melted mine the first time I
tried to solder it. got a quality switch from a local radio shop to replace
it. The tricky part is making it fit the cap but what the heck, we're
homebuilders.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: wing tip screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> I remember reading a while back about what size screws people use
> on their wing tips. Some said 4-40 others 6-32. There are plenty of
> 6-32 nut plates but the question is, where does one find nut plates
> for 4-40 screws? If 4-40's are being used to retain the wing tips what
> are they threaded into if not nut plates?
I think they mostly (all?) use nutplates. Cleaveland has a kit for these
with #40 (or used to anyway).
Personally I used #6s. The #4s are just too much of a pain to install/remove
without stripping the head IMHO. And the 6s look fine (again IMHO!)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re:Wingtip Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I used 6-32 nutplates and screws (countersunk type) on my wingtips.
I drilled the tips and wing skin edges , then put a 1 1/2 "
.025 aluminum strip inside the fibreglas and drilled to match the screw
holes. With these clecoed together I drilled for AN 426 AD3 rivets along the
other edge , spaced about 4" apart. I riveted the platenuts to the aluminum
strip and epoxied the strip inside the wingtip and squeezed the AN426AD3
rivets. I put the wingtips on while the epoxy cured.
I don't have to wonder if the screws will pull out of the wingtip at a
faraway place someday !! I had that happen on our RV-4 with the tips
pop-riveted on.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
If you change to the new Van's pre-preg cowl, then you also have to use the 2
1/4" prop extension. The new cowl is shorter. I had bought my extension and
bolts for the 4" extension prior to ordering the finish kit. SURPRISE ! They
sent the new cowl. Expensive to replace my parts !
do not archive
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: wing tip screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>I remember reading a while back about what size screws people use on their
>wing tips. Some said 4-40 others 6-32. There are plenty of 6-32 nut plates
>but the question is, where does one find nut plates for 4-40 screws? If
>4-40's are being used to retain the wing tips what are they threaded into
>if not nut plates?
>
>
I used the kit from Cleaveland Tools.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=2
Includes "hardware for attaching RV wing tips with #4 screws; 100 AN509-4
Screws (steel or stainless) 100 Nut-plates 200 Soft Rivets"
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: wing tip screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Scott,
I used the Cleaveland Tools kit pt. # WHS 200. It comes with 100 AN 509-4
screws (steel or stainless), 100 nut plates and 200 soft rivets (to rivet
the nut plates to the fiberglass)
Cheers!!-------Henry Hore
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: wing tip screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Thanks for all the replies. I did not have a ACS catalog in front of me
which made it much more difficult to find the right parts on line. The
parts are now ordered and on the way.
At 10:30 AM 3/18/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>>I remember reading a while back about what size screws people use on their
>>wing tips. Some said 4-40 others 6-32. There are plenty of 6-32 nut plates
>>but the question is, where does one find nut plates for 4-40 screws? If
>>4-40's are being used to retain the wing tips what are they threaded into
>>if not nut plates?
>>
>>
>I used the kit from Cleaveland Tools.
>
>http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=2
>
>Includes "hardware for attaching RV wing tips with #4 screws; 100 AN509-4
>Screws (steel or stainless) 100 Nut-plates 200 Soft Rivets"
>
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Noise (revisited) |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Noise? As in growl, squeal, rumble, scrape, hum?????
Is your wiring to the headphones, microphone, key all shielded??
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Antenna locations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
In the interests of optimum
performance, I have (reluctantly) elected
to mount a COM antenna and
transponder antenna on the belly of my
under-construction 6A. Is any belly
location better than the next?
Also, I'm told some builders mount a marker
beacon and VOR antenna
in the wing tips. I find this concept highly
desirable. However,
with my 2 strobe light powerpacks, each one mounted
nearby on an
outboard wing rib, could this somehow degrade the efficiency of
wingtip mounted antenna's?
Rick Galati RV-6A
FWF
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna locations |
--> RV-List message posted by: Canyon <steve.canyon@verizon.net>
Rick Galati wrote:
>I'm told some builders mount a marker beacon and VOR antenna
>in the wing tips. I find this concept highly desirable. However,
>with my 2 strobe light powerpacks, each one mounted nearby on an
>outboard wing rib, could this somehow degrade the efficiency of
>wingtip mounted antenna's?
---
Hi Rick,
How large is the metal mass of the power pack and what would be the
distance from it to the antenna? Is the power pack possibly mounted
inside the outboard wing rib?
Steve
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna locations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Antenna
locations
From:
Canyon (steve.canyon@verizon.net )
Date:
Tue Mar 18 - 11:47
AM
-- RV-List message posted by: Canyon steve.canyon@verizon.net
Rick Galati wrote:
I'm told some builders mount a marker beacon and VOR antenna
in the wing tips. I find this concept highly desirable. However,
with my 2 strobe light powerpacks, each one mounted nearby on an
outboard wing rib, could this somehow degrade the efficiency of
wingtip mounted antenna's?
---
Hi Rick,
How large is the metal mass of the power pack and what would be the
distance from it to the antenna? Is the power pack possibly mounted
inside the outboard wing rib?
Steve
Steve,
The Whelen A490ATSCF powerpacks are approximately 3"X3"X41/2", and
are centrally located
on the upper outboard surface of both wingtip ribs, (favoring the upper
skin). Assuming the NAV
antenna
lies reasonably flat on the lower surface of the selected wingtip,
approximately 4" of spacing
would
exist between the components at the immediate location of the
powerpack. While on this
subject, does an internally located nav antenna exist that also
provides for glide slope? I want to avoid
cat
whiskers at all costs, and I sure would like to have that capability
since a GI-106A CDI is already
installed.
Rick
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
I had the standard tires and tubes from Van's and had to air them almost
every
time I went flying. I finally discovered the tires and tubes from Michelin
Condor.
The tubes are not cheap around $ 40.00 each. I have had them on since the
last Oshkosh and have only put air in them one time. If you buy them at Oshkosh
you will get a good deal. I would suggest everyone buy them.
Russ.......I assume these are for the mains, and will not fit the nosewheel?
Gary
do not archive
---
Message 25
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| Subject: | Oil Cooler Air Duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Van's Airforce web site has a Greg Bitzer design for a variable 'door'
feeding air from the plenum to the oil cooler. I have a similiar, but
mechanically slightly different arrangement that works very well. I can vary
oil temperatures a few degrees very easily.
BUT, I have often wondered if using the SCAT tube (as both my and Greg's
design does) makes a difference in air flow as opposed to a smooth interior
tube of some kind. I have thought of making a fiberglass duct with a small
flex joint to allow for engine-firewall vibration, with the idea of
increasing air flow in very hot conditions.
What opinions are out there regarding how much, if any, turbulence is
caused by the wires inside SCAT tubing vs using a smooth interior tube of
some sort. Worth the trouble?
John at Salida, CO
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna locations |
--> RV-List message posted by: Canyon <steve.canyon@verizon.net>
Rick Galati wrote:
>The Whelen A490ATSCF powerpacks are approximately 3"X3"X41/2", and
>are centrally located on the upper outboard surface of both wingtip
>ribs, (favoring the upper skin). Assuming the NAV antenna lies
>reasonably flat on the lower surface of the selected wingtip,
>approximately 4" of spacing would
>exist between the components at the immediate location of the
>powerpack. While on this subject, does an internally located nav
>antenna exist that also
>provides for glide slope? I want to avoid cat whiskers at all costs,
>and I sure would like to have that capability since a GI-106A CDI is
>already installed.
---
I think it should work just fine. Maybe if you run into a problem with
it that way you could try a remount of the power pack. It's always
nice when you can leave yourself a back door. How hard would it be to
install that power pack inside the rib -- do you have a lightening hole
it will fit through and bolt up on a mirror image bolt pattern? That
would do it for sure. What does the antenna mfg'r say?
Sorry, don't have a wingtip area to look at here.
What kind of nav antenna -- VOR, HF or what? Someone else could
probably give you a better answer on this one, but I'm pretty sure one
exists but, sorry, don't have a reference for you.
Steve
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: wing tip screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
In a message dated 3/18/2003 11:25:44 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
> I remember reading a while back about what size screws people use on their
> wing tips. Some said 4-40 others 6-32. There are plenty of 6-32 nut plates
> but the question is, where does one find nut plates for 4-40 screws? If
> 4-40's are being used to retain the wing tips what are they threaded into
> if not nut plates?
>
>
Cleveland Tool
Message 28
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| Subject: | Operating Limitations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Whiteside" <erwhites@bellsouth.net>
Anyone on the list have experience with getting a replacement copy of a
lost Operating Limitations document? I am not referring to getting the
original
language revised, just getting an FAA blessed copy of the original.
I am interested in procedure followed, and how long it took to get the
new document in hand.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Fwd: RE: GX-65 Intercom |
--> RV-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@eskimo.com>
---------- Forwarded Message ----------
Maybe this will cure the flap about this subject.
do not archive
Subject: RE: GX-65
From: Bill Lehmanowsky <iim1bel@iim.ups.com>
Thank you for your inquiry about the GX65. The problem you are describing
was fixed in June 1998 with a com board change from mod. "C" to a mod "D".
If you have any questions about any of the UPSAT products please call our
tech. support Dept. at 1-800-525-6726 ext 3991
thank you
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Arthur Nation [mailto:anation@eskimo.com]
Subject: GX-65
Gentlemen:
Today, on the RV-List postings, a real rubarb started.
The question asked was "how good is the intercom function on the GPS-Com and
who has actual experience.
One reply said it (the GX-65) was good as gold in all functions. The next
reply said it was the worst on the market.
Five other people said, when using the intercom function, it was not
possible
to use the standby frequency monitoring. All thought this lacking to not be
good.
Is this true or not? Can one not monitor standby frequency and use the
intercom?
As I am quite interested in this unit for my Kitfox, I would appreciate the
correct information.
Thank You.
Arthur Nation
-------------------------------------------------------
Message 30
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<rv4-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/17/03 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
This request for an engine reminds me... I have a Lycoming O-320 D1A, with
200~ hours TTSN, for sale $16-k in Coalinga, California (short range
delivery negotiable).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg P Jannakos <gpjann@juno.com>
Subject: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/17/03
> --> Engines-List message posted by: Greg P Jannakos <gpjann@juno.com>
>
>
> I'm looking for an engine for sale to install on my Zodiac CH601HDS.
> Anyone have one for sale?
> Greg Jannakos
> gpjann@juno.com
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna locations |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Try sending a message to Bob Archer. Sportcraft Antenna's.
He has a very nice wingtip NAV antenna.
bobsantennas@earthlink.com
Or call him at (310) 316-8796. Bob loves to talk aircraft antenna's.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | KY97A radio has been sold |
--> RV-List message posted by: eregensburg <eregensburg@triad.rr.com>
Thank everyone for the overwhelming response. I delivered my KY97A to its
new owner today
Ed
N925RV
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Dimpling a HS skin with a pneumatic as I am about to call it a night the thing
slips as I pull the trigger and I put a very nice hole in my skin. Of course
it is on the top side. It is 1" from the aft end and 1" in from the tip. I am
not sure how the fiberglass tips come into play later, but I don't think it
will help me in covering the hole. Is this something I can repair in the finishing/painting
process, or should I right now chalk it up to my stupidity and
buy a new skin? Your comments are appreciated in advance. Wish I could remain
anonymous! Glenn in Arizona. -9A Emp.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna locations |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Marvel <bmarvel@cox.net>
Rick:
I have the Bob Archer nav/glideslope antenna in the right wing tip of an
RV-8A, along with his simple marker beacon antenna. I have both nav lights
out there and strobes with the power supply on the outboard side of the
outer wing rib. There is no problem of interference with any of this, and
in fact, the installation diagram shows how to route strobe and nav wires
across his antenna.
In short, it works great and there are no problems.
Another poster gave you his name and phone number so you might want to get
in touch.
Bill Marvel
Rick Galati wrote:
> Also, I'm told some builders mount a marker
> beacon and VOR antenna
> in the wing tips. I find this concept highly
> desirable. However,
> with my 2 strobe light powerpacks, each one mounted
> nearby on an
> outboard wing rib, could this somehow degrade the efficiency of
>
> wingtip mounted antenna's?
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Hole In Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Debur it, dimple it, put an AN426AD3-3 rivet in (back rivet it to get it
ultra smooth), done deal.
1" is plenty of edge distance, sounds like there won't be any structural
interference (i.e. overlapping rib or spar). That's about the cleanest
messup you can make! Welcome to the "What's that hole for?" club... 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (canopy)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Hole In Skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> Dimpling a HS skin with a pneumatic as I am about to call it a night the
thing slips as I pull the trigger and I put a very nice hole in my skin. Of
course it is on the top side. It is 1" from the aft end and 1" in from the
tip. I am not sure how the fiberglass tips come into play later, but I
don't think it will help me in covering the hole. Is this something I can
repair in the finishing/painting process, or should I right now chalk it up
to my stupidity and buy a new skin? Your comments are appreciated in
advance. Wish I could remain anonymous! Glenn in Arizona. -9A Emp.
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Hole In Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
put a rivet in just like it belonged there.
put one on the other side to match it.
maybe, that way no one will know it was a mistake.
don't ask.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Hole In Skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> Dimpling a HS skin with a pneumatic as I am about to call it a night the
thing slips as I pull the trigger and I put a very nice hole in my skin. Of
course it is on the top side. It is 1" from the aft end and 1" in from the
tip. I am not sure how the fiberglass tips come into play later, but I
don't think it will help me in covering the hole. Is this something I can
repair in the finishing/painting process, or should I right now chalk it up
to my stupidity and buy a new skin? Your comments are appreciated in
advance. Wish I could remain anonymous! Glenn in Arizona. -9A Emp.
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Antenna locations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> I have the Bob Archer nav/glideslope antenna in the right
> wing tip of an RV-8A, along with his simple marker beacon
> antenna. I have both nav lights out there and strobes with
> the power supply on the outboard side of the outer wing rib.
> There is no problem of interference with any of this, and in
> fact, the installation diagram shows how to route strobe and
> nav wires across his antenna.
>
> In short, it works great and there are no problems.
I too have the Archer nav/loc/gs wingtip antenna, and I have a Whelen
strobe power supply perhaps 4 inches from the antenna, mounted on the
spar just inboard of the outboard rib. It seems to work well, and when
the nav audio is on, I can hear a faint tick-tick-tick each time the
strobes fire, but it is much fainter than the audio coming in.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP hours
www.rvforum.org
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Glenn,
I kinda did the same thing...if you're using a prepunched skin, you can swap
it for the other one...putting the offending hole on the bottom...if it's
not near a spar or rib - it's already dimpled so you can put a rivet in it
and a little filler right before painting and noone but you will know where
it is. If it's near a spar or rib (my offense), flatten it out and fill it
later when you're finishing your tips (a little resin/microballoon mix that
you're gonna use elsewhere anyway).
First try swapping the skins...
I've already had my anonymity removed from me on this one...
Pictures if you want them...zap me directly...
Ralph Capen
RV6A
Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Hole In Skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> Dimpling a HS skin with a pneumatic as I am about to call it a night the
thing slips as I pull the trigger and I put a very nice hole in my skin. Of
course it is on the top side. It is 1" from the aft end and 1" in from the
tip. I am not sure how the fiberglass tips come into play later, but I
don't think it will help me in covering the hole. Is this something I can
repair in the finishing/painting process, or should I right now chalk it up
to my stupidity and buy a new skin? Your comments are appreciated in
advance. Wish I could remain anonymous! Glenn in Arizona. -9A Emp.
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Hole in Skin Resolved |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
It didn't take Scott Brown long to solve my problem (about 5 minutes) to put a
rivet in the hole, which will be covered later in the finishing process. DUH!
Looks good already. Thanks!
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Operating Limitations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> Anyone on the list have experience with getting a replacement copy of a
> lost Operating Limitations document? I am not referring to getting the
> original
> language revised, just getting an FAA blessed copy of the original.
> I am interested in procedure followed, and how long it took to get the
> new document in hand.
No direct experience with it but the FSDO through which the airworthiness
certificate was issued should have it on file -- if you know which office it
is and can go in there, I'd think you'd be able to go in and get it pretty
quickly. At any rate I would think that's the place to start, rather than
OKC.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 41
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| Subject: | Break pedal geom |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Graham <beeb@teleport.com>
A simple fix for the RV-8 break pedal/ rudder pedal is to replace the
individual # 3 bolts at the pivot point with an aprox. 7.5" (buy the proper
grip length) bolt that goes clear through the pedal(threads to the outside).
This is covered with a built up rubber hose foot pad. My pal Scott used an
alum. tube with rubber hose over it so that as the pedal moved the pad would
roll. This was all copied from an antique Belanca(sp).
So simple, so great,
GG
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Hole In Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
>
> Welcome to the "What's that hole for?" club... 8-)
A-men! If I had a dollar for every RV builder who did that I'd have... well,
let's see, how many RVs have been built to date? :-) Seriously though, just
stick a rivet in it and move on.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 43
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
I may be able to buy a Lycoming at a good price...I'm not sure whether it's an
engine I want or not. Here's the story... The engine was sold with a Glasair
kit, is an IO-360B1E, and was manufactured (he thinks) in 1985. It is still
pickled in original crate. It has been in a dry climate (Nevada) since it left
the factory. I am not sure if this engine would be subject to the oil pump
AD or what other AD's it would be subject to.
I will get the serial number of the engine tomorrow and try to find out some more
details...but if anyone could help me out on advice on whether this would be
suitable for my RV-7, I would appreciate it. I want a forward facing induction...and
I don't know how this engine is set up, nor what fuel injection system
it may have. Are there any other concerns I should have about buying this
engine?
Help!
Bob Brown
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: Hole In Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Glenn,
'If I read your description right the damage you describe will not be a risk
to overall structural integrity.'
Is the unwanted hole well clear of the rivet line that will join the skin to
the framework?
If the hole will be clear of the underlying structural frame flange, the
repair can be as simple as putting a rivet in the hole and carrying on. The
offending rivet head can then be filled and sanded smooth at paint prep
time.
If the hole will intersect with the underlying structural flange so that the
shop head will interfere with that structure it might be easy to drill and
dimple the structural flange and add an 'out of place' rivet.
If putting a rivet in the hole will result in the rivet's shop head
interfering with the radius of the structural flange (Murphy's Law predicts
this condition) (:-{! you might be wise to carefully re-flatten the
unwanted dimple with the rivet squeezer.
To practice flattening the dimple do this;
Dimple a piece of scrap material of the same thickness. Then use your
squeezer 'not too' aggressively several times to squeeze the dimple flat.
Try to focus the center of the squeezer's force around the edge of the hole.
Avoid squeezing directly on the center of the hole. The outcome should leave
a hole with a very slight mark or low ridge around it. This can be filed and
filled etc. at paint prep time.
Keeping in mind that this should not be done anywhere that would risk
structural integrity:
If you feel you must not have a hole, try practicing this. Drill a rivet
hole in some scrap. Machine dimple or aggressively de-burr two thirds into
the scrap's thickness from one side. Then one third in from the other side.
Cut a rivet very short, the shank should be about the thickness of the scrap
material. Squeeze the rivet into the hole. The trick is not to squeeze so
tight as to deform the material around the hole but tight enough to for the
rivet to grab a good hold. You will be left with a rivet head that will
stand proud of the surface on both sides of the scrap. When filed off there
will be little trace of the repaired hole.
Note; Check your female dimple die for the presence of the aluminum material
that got punched out during your miss-adventure. if you find some drill it
out, If left in there it could be the cause of quite a few poorly formed
dimples in the days ahead.
This rule generally works:
When in doubt leave it temporarily and move on to the next thing to be done.
Coming back later to mistreaks gives you time gain some more experiance and
to relax and come up with the right choice of action.
In all cases when the crap hits the fan, a call and a question to Van's will
not lead you astray.
Good luck with the building,
Do not archive Jim in Kelowna ...Yet
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Hole In Skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> Dimpling a HS skin with a pneumatic as I am about to call it a night the
thing slips as I pull the trigger and I put a very nice hole in my skin. Of
course it is on the top side. It is 1" from the aft end and 1" in from the
tip. I am not sure how the fiberglass tips come into play later, but I
don't think it will help me in covering the hole. Is this something I can
repair in the finishing/painting process, or should I right now chalk it up
to my stupidity and buy a new skin? Your comments are appreciated in
advance. Wish I could remain anonymous! Glenn in Arizona. -9A Emp.
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Break pedal geom |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Graham <beeb@teleport.com>
I forgot to to give the long bolt details, IIRC The bolt was a plated
1/4" and fit the weldment perfectly therefore I must have misstated the
original bolt size as #3 should have been #4 (R1)
GG
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Operating Limitations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
My DAR stated that he would keep copies if I ever needed them.
Might want to check him.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Operating Limitations
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
>
> > Anyone on the list have experience with getting a replacement copy of a
> > lost Operating Limitations document? I am not referring to getting the
> > original
> > language revised, just getting an FAA blessed copy of the original.
> > I am interested in procedure followed, and how long it took to get the
> > new document in hand.
>
> No direct experience with it but the FSDO through which the airworthiness
> certificate was issued should have it on file -- if you know which office
it
> is and can go in there, I'd think you'd be able to go in and get it pretty
> quickly. At any rate I would think that's the place to start, rather than
> OKC.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/17/03 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken And Gretchen" <Ken@soundsuckers.com>
If you are interested I just took a 0-320 h2ad out of my rv 6a and replaced
it with a subaru.
It was runing great when I took it out but was geting a weak cylinder that
was giving me high egt temps, may be a valve 2000 hrs.
Complete firewall foward with oil cooler air shields light weight starter
Great planes engine anyliser exhaust heater ducting motor mounts prop and
air vacumn pump pluse vavume gages and everything else firewall foward Only
12,000 today.
E-mail ken@soundsuckers.com
Eastern Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
<rv4-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs -
03/17/03
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Greg P Jannakos <gpjann@juno.com>
> To: <engines-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/17/03
>
>
> > --> Engines-List message posted by: Greg P Jannakos <gpjann@juno.com>
> >
> >
> > I'm looking for an engine for sale to install on my Zodiac CH601HDS.
> > Anyone have one for sale?
> > Greg Jannakos
> > gpjann@juno.com
> >
> >
>
>
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