Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:39 AM - Delco Starter Overhaul (Mark Phillips)
2. 04:42 AM - Re: ACS2002 Data Logger (LarryRobertHelming)
3. 11:48 AM - Re: Route to OR... (kempthornes)
4. 02:10 PM - back riveting wing skins (lucky macy)
5. 02:22 PM - Re: back riveting wing skins (Curt Hoffman)
6. 03:10 PM - Re: [rv8list] back riveting wing skins (Michael D. Crowe)
7. 03:43 PM - shimmy (Dave von Linsowe)
8. 04:17 PM - Re: back riveting wing skins (John Bright)
9. 06:23 PM - wheel bearing dimension help needed (SportAV8R@aol.com)
10. 06:23 PM - Re: Experimental Placard in single seaters (Gary)
11. 07:03 PM - 7-Day Matronics List Browse Enhancement... (Matt Dralle)
12. 07:14 PM - Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 (Dave von Linsowe)
13. 07:37 PM - cowling hinges idea (Amit Dagan)
14. 07:47 PM - Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 (Dan Checkoway)
15. 08:17 PM - Re: shimmy (Brian Denk)
16. 09:18 PM - Re: shimmy (Dave von Linsowe)
17. 09:34 PM - Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 (Dave von Linsowe)
18. 10:01 PM - Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Delco Starter Overhaul |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
I will be using the Delco-Remy starter that came with my E3D and wish to
disassemble it for inspection and/or overhaul before re-installation.
Before I take this sucker apart I'd like to find some documentation
about it. Can anyone point to a service manual or procedure
description, or is this thing simple enough to just start pulling screws
without it going "sproing!!!!" on me? Are overhaul kits available for
it and where from? It is model #1109657.
Thanks!
Mark Phillips - do not archive -
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: ACS2002 Data Logger |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Rob, hopefully you have my check by now. Thanks for you patience. Now I
need to find my engine so I can order the rest of your system.
I have a question regarding the data logging in your original email: What
is needed to make this work and be able to get some form of meaningful
output out of it? Right now I am thinking of the flight testing phase of
things. It would be nice to concentrate on flying primarily and analyze the
logged data after I am back on the ground.
Thanks,
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up O-360 3XG reserved.
Working on Canopy of Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <RobHickman@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: ACS2002 Data Logger
> --> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
>
> With the ACS2002 Engine Monitor you can get the last 2 hours of data
recorded every 5 seconds from the serial port. All data is recorded
including trim and flap positions.
> www.Advanced-Control-Systems.com
>
> Rob Hickman
> N401RH RV-4 (225+ Hours)
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Route to OR... |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 03:00 PM 3/21/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
> I don't own an O2 system and I don't want to purchase one at
>this point, as it'll be very rarely used.
Like your ELT, huh? I have flown from Oshkosh to the West Coast half a
dozen times but only once without oxygen. I had the equipment but
neglected to check the amount of gas still remaining. Dumb. That trip, in
the Debonair, I looked for all the low ground so as to have as much
altitude as possible in case something went wrong. Another trip was IFR in
the rain and I had to stay pretty low due to ice fear. The Rockies are
rough on landing gear in places.
April huh? Mine were in summer.
Last summer coming back to Paso Robles (halfway between LA and SF) there
was heavy forest fire smoke in the Sierras. The country is high and so was
the smoke but I topped it in the RV6a at 17,900 ft. (No IFR equipment yet).
It is a shame to be able to fly high and safe and not have the
oxygen. Another benefit is gas savings. Often, there are often powerful
tail winds up high even over the flat country. Maybe buy an outfit with a
partner?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 4
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| Subject: | back riveting wing skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Is there an offset flat set for back riveting the top wing skins or can I
take my AN470-4 offset rivet set and use it to make the shop heads on the
AN426-3 rivets?
It looks like it would make a half decent shop head...
TIA, lucky
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting wing skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
Avery makes an offset back rivet set for use on the wings. It's about 8"
long or so in order to get into every where. It works fine but is easy to
get a slightly tilted shop head (ask me how I know). The also sell a nice
round flat bucking bar to use on the skin side that makes real nice flat
rivets with no marks in the skin.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: back riveting wing skins
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> Is there an offset flat set for back riveting the top wing skins or can I
> take my AN470-4 offset rivet set and use it to make the shop heads on the
> AN426-3 rivets?
>
> It looks like it would make a half decent shop head...
>
> TIA, lucky
> do not archive
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] back riveting wing skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D. Crowe" <tripacer@bellsouth.net>
Avery makes one.
Mike Crowe
RV8A
Waiting on wings
Part # : 4580 Extra long back riveting set $26.00
Some "RV" builders are back-riveting the wing & fuselage skins to
obtain a smoother finish. This requires a long (10-1/2") rivet set, modified
with a flat recess instead of a cupped recess; and with a slight (3 - 4
degree) single offset bend near the tip to aid in clearing rib flanges.
(Works great with our #635 bucking bar).
-----Original Message-----
From: lucky macy [mailto:luckymacy@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 5:08 PM
To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: [rv8list] back riveting wing skins
Is there an offset flat set for back riveting the top wing skins or can I
take my AN470-4 offset rivet set and use it to make the shop heads on the
AN426-3 rivets?
It looks like it would make a half decent shop head...
TIA, lucky
do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
ADVERTISEMENT
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
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Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
I seem to be getting a lot of shimmy on the main gear and tailwheel on my
RV-6 during landing roll out, that seems to be getting worse. A fast taxi,
tail down, will cause it sometimes too. I've got the stiffeners in the gear
legs. I've recently switch to the Jantzi steering link, but it didn't seem
to make any difference one way or the other.
It doesn't do it every time, the tailwheel seems to do it more often than
the main gear. Although, it may be just the tailwheel and may just feel
like the main gear are going too. I'm thinking it's an alignment problem,
but which way? The tailwheel pivot is not vertical, but slanted back
slightly which may be the main culprit. How do you fix that? The tailwheel
rod isn't bent. The main gear tires don't show any signs of abnormal wear.
No problems on takeoff or wheel landings until the tailwheel is on the
ground. Has anyone else run into this?
Thanks,
Dave
RV-6
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting wing skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Bright <johninvaus@yahoo.com>
Tony Bingelis said it's OK to use an AN470-4 offset
rivet set. I bucked them and used a flat swivel set
with rubber boot... this worked great except the
bucking bar rested on one cleco and the swivel set
made a depression in the skin.
On an RV-6 if you do the top skins first you can't put
the wingwalk ribs in one at a time because the flap
brace won't allow access to buck the rib to rear spar
rivets. Some dexterity will allow you to buck the
wingwalk rib to skin rivets with all the ribs in
though... other than that it's blind rivets.
John Bright
RV-6A fuselage
Hanover, PA
do not archive
> Is there an offset flat set for back riveting the
> top wing skins or can I
> take my AN470-4 offset rivet set and use it to make
> the shop heads on the
> AN426-3 rivets?
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | wheel bearing dimension help needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Can anyone kindly tell me the dimensions of the main wheel bearings? I can't
seem to find the callout on my old plans set, and I have a main definitely
sounding like it's on its last legs. It would save me down time if I could
get the new bearing from the local industrial supplier before pulling the
wheelpants/wheel/bearings and getting to work. Thanks in advance, guys.
Bill B
275 hrs in the RV-6A and still don't have my airplane maintenance poop in a
group...
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Experimental Placard in single seaters |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Randall........got it, it works, and I see what you were saying. Thanks!
Gary
Do not archive.
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Experimental Placard in single seaters
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> Anyway, you answered my question.....it is in the Experimental EXHIBITION
> category this is mentioned. That is not what RV's are. We are
Experimental
> AMATEUR BUILT........
>
> Gary
Oops -- you're right, but only in that I cited the wrong part. The one I
meant to cite (and posted the URL for) is in fact for AMATEUR BUILT
category. Try that "short link" I posted
(http://makeashorterlink.com/?S5B816AE3) and correct me if I'm still
wrong....
Randall
---
Message 11
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| Subject: | 7-Day Matronics List Browse Enhancement... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Neil Hulin of the Zenith-List at Matronics wrote to me suggesting I add a
"total of available messages" column to the 7-Day List Browse Main page,
and it seemed like a great idea! I've made the modifications and I think
many will find it extremely helpful as well. Have a look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin...
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Dan,
Are you sure about the Q? The Q stands for "Q" Tip, which were the bent
tips Hartzell used to reduce noise. The TCDS no. P-920 shows the HC-C2YK /
7666A-4Q for the IO-360-A1B and the straight blade for the IO-360-A1B6.
I'm not sure what the 7692 blade is, but it doesn't show up in the table of
propeller and engine combinations.
Dave
RV-6
Subject: RV-List: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Does anybody know anything about Hartzell's 7692 blades? From the TCDS
they
> look identical to the 7666 blades except the 7692 is 5 pounds lighter.
>
> I don't really want to stray from the recommended HC-C2YK / 7666A-4Q
> recommendation for the IO-360-A1B6, but I'm curious more than anything
what
> the deal with the 7692 series blade is all about.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (canopy)
> http://www.rvproject.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | cowling hinges idea |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
In preperation for mouting the engine (due in about 2 weeks) I have drilled
holes in the firewall for engine controls, battery box, gascolator, etc.
In fact I think it might be a good idea for those who have just started the
fuselage kit, to order the FWF plans and take a look - there are quite a few
rivets I had to drill out, and it would have been easier to dimple the SS
before it is mounted in the fuselage.
I also prepared the cowling hinges, and the required shims, and before I
rivet them to the FW flange (which would be more difficult to do once the
engine mount is permanently bolted on), I wanted to ask what you might think
about this idea:
You know how vibration in the engine compartment has been blamed for
hinge-eyelets breaking off in this place. well, what do you think about
"sandwiching", or spreading, some high-temp RTV between the hinges, the
shims and the firewall flange before rivetting ?
My thought is, that this thin layer of rubberized compound might act as a
little "shock absorber", to dampen the vibrations before they get to the
hinge.
Am I making sense or is this going to cause more trouble than help ?
Has anyone tried this before ?
Any Tech counselors want to offer their opinion ?
Thanks,
Amit.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Yeah, I have no intention of using the Q tips...but according to the latest
TCDS (P-920 rev. 25), these are the blades that can be used with the
IO-360-A1B6:
F7068 (68"/66")
F7666A-4Q (72")
7666 (76")
F7666 (74"/72")
F8477 (84"/78")
Of those, the only "approved combination" using a 72" version with the -A1B6
is the Q prop...which is strange because Van's sells the F7666A-4 as a 72".
I'm sure I'm just picking nits here, but oh well.
I'd love to find out about the 7692 and 7694. I believe Van's listing of
the "7496" prop in their catalog is a misprint...and should read 7694-2.
I'm not sure about this, but I intend to call Van's on Monday to find out.
Blah blah...too many numbers not enough info. 8-) I just want the fastest,
lightest prop possible without spending a fortune (i.e. MT).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (canopy)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
>
> Dan,
>
> Are you sure about the Q? The Q stands for "Q" Tip, which were the bent
> tips Hartzell used to reduce noise. The TCDS no. P-920 shows the HC-C2YK
/
> 7666A-4Q for the IO-360-A1B and the straight blade for the IO-360-A1B6.
>
> I'm not sure what the 7692 blade is, but it doesn't show up in the table
of
> propeller and engine combinations.
>
> Dave
> RV-6
>
> Subject: RV-List: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > Does anybody know anything about Hartzell's 7692 blades? From the TCDS
> they
> > look identical to the 7666 blades except the 7692 is 5 pounds lighter.
> >
> > I don't really want to stray from the recommended HC-C2YK / 7666A-4Q
> > recommendation for the IO-360-A1B6, but I'm curious more than anything
> what
> > the deal with the 7692 series blade is all about.
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D (canopy)
> > http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
>
>I seem to be getting a lot of shimmy on the main gear and tailwheel on my
>RV-6 during landing roll out, that seems to be getting worse. A fast taxi,
>tail down, will cause it sometimes too. I've got the stiffeners in the
>gear
>legs. I've recently switch to the Jantzi steering link, but it didn't seem
>to make any difference one way or the other.
>
>It doesn't do it every time, the tailwheel seems to do it more often than
>the main gear. Although, it may be just the tailwheel and may just feel
>like the main gear are going too. I'm thinking it's an alignment problem,
>but which way? The tailwheel pivot is not vertical, but slanted back
>slightly which may be the main culprit. How do you fix that? The
>tailwheel
>rod isn't bent. The main gear tires don't show any signs of abnormal wear.
>No problems on takeoff or wheel landings until the tailwheel is on the
>ground. Has anyone else run into this?
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
>RV-6
>
Dave,
If the tailwheel pivot is vertical while under load, that's OK. If it's
canted forward, that's better. It helps to dampen out oscillations. If it's
canted back, that's bad. It can chatter like a beat up Walmart shopping
cart.
Another possibility is the tailwheel bearings or condition of the rubber.
My tailwheel wore one side more than the other. I swapped it around to even
out the wear. It never caused any chatter or shimmy that I could discern,
just looked odd.
The main gear on the -6 is so totally different than on the -8 that I can't
comment much on it. I have seen Whitman gear that wobbled like shell
shocked Iraqi Republican Guard when a certain ground speed was attained,
then smoothed out just as quickly. Others shimmy all the time.
Probably the quickest and easiest test would be to swap the tailwheel around
and see if anything changes. Beyond that, the main wheels could be
switched, and/or air pressure changed a bit.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> >I seem to be getting a lot of shimmy on the main gear and tailwheel on my
> >RV-6 during landing roll out, that seems to be getting worse.
> >
> Dave,
>
> If the tailwheel pivot is vertical while under load, that's OK. If it's
> canted forward, that's better. It helps to dampen out oscillations. If
it's
> canted back, that's bad. It can chatter like a beat up Walmart shopping
> cart.
>
> Another possibility is the tailwheel bearings or condition of the rubber.
> My tailwheel wore one side more than the other. I swapped it around to
even
> out the wear. It never caused any chatter or shimmy that I could discern,
> just looked odd.
>
> The main gear on the -6 is so totally different than on the -8 that I
can't
> comment much on it. I have seen Whitman gear that wobbled like shell
> shocked Iraqi Republican Guard when a certain ground speed was attained,
> then smoothed out just as quickly. Others shimmy all the time.
>
> Probably the quickest and easiest test would be to swap the tailwheel
around
> and see if anything changes. Beyond that, the main wheels could be
> switched, and/or air pressure changed a bit.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
Thanks Brian. I'll try that.
I've heard that Tailwinds can be very sensitive to tire pressure and wheel
shimmy. Lower pressure is better.
Dave
RV-6
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
They must have made some changes. The copy I have of the TCDS is rev. 24,
July 30, 2002
Check out page 9, third prop down. The diameter range shown is 76" to 72",
Van's -4 is a 72". The "A" is a minor mod that doesn't effect eligibility.
The fastest RV guys thus far, have taken the Hartzell's and retwisted them
(better twist distribution for the rpm and airspeed), turn them at higher
rpm (up to 3000 rpm) and in some cases clipped them less than 72".
It's going to be interesting to see Randy Lervold's test results with the
Whirl Wind 200C vs. the 150 3 blade.
MT has got some new interesting stuff too, I'll know more soon.
Spending a fortune would be Aero Composites...
Dave
RV-6
The need for (more) speed---->
(I need to beat a buddy's 7 :-)
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Yeah, I have no intention of using the Q tips...but according to the
latest
> TCDS (P-920 rev. 25), these are the blades that can be used with the
> IO-360-A1B6:
>
> F7068 (68"/66")
> F7666A-4Q (72")
> 7666 (76")
> F7666 (74"/72")
> F8477 (84"/78")
>
> Of those, the only "approved combination" using a 72" version with
the -A1B6
> is the Q prop...which is strange because Van's sells the F7666A-4 as a
72".
> I'm sure I'm just picking nits here, but oh well.
>
> I'd love to find out about the 7692 and 7694. I believe Van's listing of
> the "7496" prop in their catalog is a misprint...and should read 7694-2.
> I'm not sure about this, but I intend to call Van's on Monday to find out.
>
> Blah blah...too many numbers not enough info. 8-) I just want the
fastest,
> lightest prop possible without spending a fortune (i.e. MT).
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (canopy)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> >
> > Dan,
> >
> > Are you sure about the Q? The Q stands for "Q" Tip, which were the bent
> > tips Hartzell used to reduce noise. The TCDS no. P-920 shows the
HC-C2YK
> /
> > 7666A-4Q for the IO-360-A1B and the straight blade for the IO-360-A1B6.
> >
> > I'm not sure what the 7692 blade is, but it doesn't show up in the table
> of
> > propeller and engine combinations.
> >
> > Dave
> > RV-6
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> > >
> > > Does anybody know anything about Hartzell's 7692 blades? From the
TCDS
> > they
> > > look identical to the 7666 blades except the 7692 is 5 pounds lighter.
> > >
> > > I don't really want to stray from the recommended HC-C2YK / 7666A-4Q
> > > recommendation for the IO-360-A1B6, but I'm curious more than anything
> > what
> > > the deal with the 7692 series blade is all about.
> > >
> > > )_( Dan
> > > RV-7 N714D (canopy)
> > > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Check out page 9, third prop down. The diameter range shown is 76" to
72",
> Van's -4 is a 72". The "A" is a minor mod that doesn't effect
eligibility.
Right...but that's for the -A1A, not the -A1B6. Am I picking nits?
do not archive
)_( Dan
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