Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:34 AM - Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 (Kevin Horton)
2. 06:33 AM - Re: cowling hinges idea (Tracy Crook)
3. 06:33 AM - Re: back riveting wing skins (emrath)
4. 06:46 AM - New Lycoming IO-360A1B6 for sale (Stephen Johnson)
5. 06:54 AM - Finish kit for RV-8 for sale (Stephen Johnson)
6. 07:00 AM - New S-Tec 30 autopilot installation kit for RV-8/8A for sale (Stephen Johnson)
7. 07:02 AM - Re: back riveting wing skins (Gary)
8. 07:02 AM - Re: cowling hinges idea (Gary)
9. 07:28 AM - avionics purchasing (lucky macy)
10. 07:40 AM - Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 (Dave von Linsowe)
11. 07:57 AM - Re: cowling hinges idea (Elsa & Henry)
12. 08:26 AM - Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 (Dan Checkoway)
13. 09:11 AM - landing lights (Bert Forero)
14. 09:39 AM - Glass Panels vs Vac Gyros. (Michael Saffold)
15. 10:09 AM - Re: back riveting wing skins (Elsa & Henry)
16. 11:57 AM - Re: landing lights (HCRV6@aol.com)
17. 12:02 PM - Re: Glass Panels vs Vac Gyros. (Brian Denk)
18. 12:02 PM - Re: shimmy (Louis Willig)
19. 12:13 PM - Re: landing lights (Bill VonDane)
20. 12:53 PM - RC Allen Artificial Horizon Question (George McNutt)
21. 01:11 PM - Re: landing lights (George McNutt)
22. 01:25 PM - Re: Glass Panels vs Vac Gyros. (Jim Jewell)
23. 01:52 PM - [ Bob Paulo ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
24. 03:56 PM - Re: landing lights (Ed Perry)
25. 04:59 PM - Stealth RV (Dana Overall)
26. 06:05 PM - Re: shimmy (Dave von Linsowe)
27. 06:08 PM - Cleveland 10-30 master cyl. (Phil Smith)
28. 06:40 PM - Re: landing lights (Bobby Hester)
29. 07:56 PM - Re: Stealth RV (Larry Pardue)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> Check out page 9, third prop down. The diameter range shown is 76" to
>72",
>> Van's -4 is a 72". The "A" is a minor mod that doesn't effect
>eligibility.
>
>Right...but that's for the -A1A, not the -A1B6. Am I picking nits?
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>
Dan,
My P-920 rev 25 TCDS seems to read a bit differently than yours. Not
sure why. I just pulled mine off the FAA web site, and it has the
prop Van sells near the top of page 9.
HC-C2YK or YR hub, F7666 blades, LYC IO-360-A1B6, -A1D6 (and some C
models), diameter range of 72 to 74 inches, and no rpm restrictions.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: cowling hinges idea |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>
> You know how vibration in the engine compartment has been blamed for
> hinge-eyelets breaking off in this place. well, what do you think about
> "sandwiching", or spreading, some high-temp RTV between the hinges, the
> shims and the firewall flange before rivetting ?
> My thought is, that this thin layer of rubberized compound might act as a
> little "shock absorber", to dampen the vibrations before they get to the
> hinge.
>
> Am I making sense or is this going to cause more trouble than help ?
> Has anyone tried this before ?
> Any Tech counselors want to offer their opinion ?
>
> Thanks,
> Amit.
If your idea works, it would result in the rivets 'working' and getting
loose.
Some of us solved the problem by eliminating the source of the vibration
)
Tracy Crook
Mazda Rotary powered RV-4, 1300 hrs.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting wing skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: emrath <emrath@comcast.net>
I built my RV-6A wings by riveting the top skin first. There were issues of
bucking the inboard rib rivets and interference with the flap brace, but
that was solved with some immaginative use of the bucking bar. If needed
you can modify or make a bar of the shape needed to get into there.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 04:17:15 PM PST US
From: John Bright <johninvaus@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: back riveting wing skins
--> RV-List message posted by: John Bright <johninvaus@yahoo.com>
Tony Bingelis said it's OK to use an AN470-4 offset
rivet set. I bucked them and used a flat swivel set
with rubber boot... this worked great except the
bucking bar rested on one cleco and the swivel set
made a depression in the skin.
On an RV-6 if you do the top skins first you can't put
the wingwalk ribs in one at a time because the flap
brace won't allow access to buck the rib to rear spar
rivets. Some dexterity will allow you to buck the
wingwalk rib to skin rivets with all the ribs in
though... other than that it's blind rivets.
John Bright
RV-6A fuselage
Hanover, PA
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | New Lycoming IO-360A1B6 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
Some of you may have seen my earlier post regarding the sale of my RV-8
project. The wings and tail have been sold. I will sell the brand new in
the box IO-360A1B6 for what I paid for it. The engine which is equipped
with LASAR ignition and long term storage cost me $33525. It was delivered
last December. The identical engine today would cost $1025 more. I'm
located in Minneapolis. Please contact off list. Do not archive.
Steve Johnson
Message 5
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| Subject: | Finish kit for RV-8 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
Some of you may have seen my earlier post regarding the sale of my RV-8
project. The wings and fuselage have been sold. I will sell the brand new
finish kit with the cowl and mount for the IO-360A1B6 for $4000. The kit
has been unpacked and inventoried but is otherwise untouched. You pick up.
I'm located in Minneapolis. Do not archive.
Steve Johnson
Message 6
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| Subject: | New S-Tec 30 autopilot installation kit for RV-8/8A for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
Some of you may have seen my my earlier post regardin the sale of my RV-8
project. The wings and fuselage have been sold. I will sell the brand new
S-Tec 30 installation kit for $2400 which is a savings of $515 from what I
paid for it. Please contact off list. Do not archive.
Steve Johnson
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting wing skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Lucky.............Yes, you can use a cupped set to backrivet. I used a -3 cupped
set that way several times. The only real problem is that you don't have the
spring to hold the parts together while you rivet. If you are careful, it
works fine. The shop head is not quite as pretty, no big deal.
I have not tried the offset backrivet set.
Gary
Original Message:
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: back riveting wing skins
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Is there an offset flat set for back riveting the top wing skins or can I
take my AN470-4 offset rivet set and use it to make the shop heads on the
AN426-3 rivets?
It looks like it would make a half decent shop head...
TIA, lucky
do not archive
---
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: cowling hinges idea |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Amit,
I used a similar method, except I used epoxy flox. Troweled it over the dimples
and riveted the hinges on without dimpling them. This gave the proper spacing
on the hinge without shims, and, I feel, bonds and supports the hinges to the
flange very well. It seems RTV would allow vibration of the hinge relative
to the flange, and not accomplish the objective.
Flox is very hard and strong, much more so than Micro slurry. Of course rough
up the surfaces well with 60 grit sandpaper so it will bond well.
I hope I never have to replace the hinges! Might be very tough to get them off.
I did use screws and Tinnerman nut plates on the curved areas at the top corners,
so the hinge pins don't have to negotiate the curves. They go in and out okay.
By the way, I riveted all the hinges on after the engine was mounted. Two
or three rivets were hard to reach, but I got them with a thin-nose yoke on
the squeezer.
Gary
Time: 07:37:45 PM PST US
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Subject: cowling hinges idea
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
In preperation for mouting the engine (due in about 2 weeks) I have drilled
holes in the firewall for engine controls, battery box, gascolator, etc.
In fact I think it might be a good idea for those who have just started the
fuselage kit, to order the FWF plans and take a look - there are quite a
few
rivets I had to drill out, and it would have been easier to dimple the SS
before it is mounted in the fuselage.
I also prepared the cowling hinges, and the required shims, and before I
rivet them to the FW flange (which would be more difficult to do once the
engine mount is permanently bolted on), I wanted to ask what you might think
about this idea:
You know how vibration in the engine compartment has been blamed for
hinge-eyelets breaking off in this place. well, what do you think about
"sandwiching", or spreading, some high-temp RTV between the hinges, the
shims and the firewall flange before rivetting ?
My thought is, that this thin layer of rubberized compound might act as a
little "shock absorber", to dampen the vibrations before they get to the
hinge.
Am I making sense or is this going to cause more trouble than help ?
Has anyone tried this before ?
Any Tech counselors want to offer their opinion ?
Thanks,
Amit.
---
Message 9
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| Subject: | avionics purchasing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Can someone help educate me on the general aviation choices available and
appropriate for an RV-8. I'm going to SNF with the intent of demoing and
hopefully purchasing avionics.
I like everything about the military avionics I work with (currently the
Army's Comanche helicopter - RAH-66). I especially like the idea of being
able to operate main map and comm functions via grip switches and have the
two systems "integrated to the fullest practical extent".
All I see out there on the lower end of the price spectrum is the Apollo
GX65 but the GPS side is a little too sparse for my taste.
What are the competitors to the Apollo GX65?
Can any "standalone capable" GPS unit like the 295 or 196 interface with any
comm units to transfer comm freqs yet and can you operate the GPS units yet
from stick switches?
Also, I saw a great email that I didn't save from someone who works at an
avionics repair place that said there was a definite transponder commonly
found to stay away from and another which was all solid state that was much
preferrred. Anyone remember which was which?
sweating the small stuff,
lucky
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Mine shows the IO-360A1B6, A1D6, C1C6 and C1E6. As Kevin says, no rpm
restriction. From that I would assume those engines have the counter
weighted cranks.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > Check out page 9, third prop down. The diameter range shown is 76" to
> 72",
> > Van's -4 is a 72". The "A" is a minor mod that doesn't effect
> eligibility.
>
> Right...but that's for the -A1A, not the -A1B6. Am I picking nits?
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: cowling hinges idea |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I would suggest that you file the sharp hinge eye corners to relieve them as
I mentioned in my post of 3/15 replying to the post on "RV-6A bottom
cowl/fuse mounting alternatives", regardless of the method of mounting them.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell 7692 vs. 7666 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Mine shows the IO-360A1B6, A1D6, C1C6 and C1E6. As Kevin says, no rpm
> restriction. From that I would assume those engines have the counter
> weighted cranks.
Doh! There it is...brain fart. Thanks for pointing this out guys.
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
I would like to add a flasher unit to the landing
lights.
What is the easiest way to do this.
I see that some of you use a regular auto type unit.
I would appreciate it, if some one send me or fax
drawing showing how to connect this to the system..
Thanks you
Bert
rv6a
finishing electrical
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Glass Panels vs Vac Gyros. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Saffold" <michaelsaffold@hotmail.com>
First, I did check the archives. There was a thread about this a few years ago.
I'm pretty sure there have been some improvements in electric instruments in
the mean time. So, I would like to hear some well thought out arguments on both
sides. comparing state of the art electrics with reliable old vacuum instruments.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting wing skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I used the Avery long off-set tool they sell, while my helper (wife) pushed
on the rivet head with the large round bucking-bar they sell also. One
precaution I took was to grind down the lip a bit of the rivet set business
end to prevent it hitting and causing smiles in the rib flanges. Got
excellent results.
I guess Van's changed their builder's manual since my 1995 version, because
it directed to rivet the bottom skins on first. I decided to put the top
ones on first for two reasons, 1):--The back-riveting would prevent
hammering the skins with a flush-set thus getting a nice finish without
dings.--Achieved. And 2):-- It would be easier to fold-back the bottom skins
to reach in and buck the rivets because those skins don't have the chord
curvature the top ones have.--Easy!
The only "pop" rivets I have in my wings are the ones that secure the main
ribs to the main spar in the fuel-tank doubler area. I was able to install
the root wing-walk ribs sequentially from outboard to inboard using AN3
rivets after the top skins were all installed and the wing is off the jig.
Sliding them in to place was made easier to clear the rear spar and flap
brace because the rivets holding the rear spar inboard stiffeners were
installed with the shop-heads to the rear. I made some innovative
bucking-bars to clear the flap brace and to install the aileron gap-seals.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: landing lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Bert: Check out www.perihelion.com. Eric Jones has a neat little wig wag
flasher that is so compact and lightweight you can mount it just about
anywhere, and Eric claims it will handle up to 250 watts per light. I have
been running one on the bench off and on for a few months with 50 watt lights
and no problems so far, It remains to be seen how it will work in the long
haul. Eric's E-mail is emjones@charter.net.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Glass Panels vs Vac Gyros. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Saffold"
><michaelsaffold@hotmail.com>
>
>First, I did check the archives. There was a thread about this a few years
>ago. I'm pretty sure there have been some improvements in electric
>instruments in the mean time. So, I would like to hear some well thought
>out arguments on both sides. comparing state of the art electrics with
>reliable old vacuum instruments.
"reliable old vacuum instruments"? Oxymoron alert! ;)
I have the standard sucky, whiny vacuum gyros and can't wait to offload them
on Ebay. I'm going to check out the Dynon EFIS at SNF. I plan to install
one as soon as I can afford to lay down the cash. The reliability of
electronics these days is simply outstanding. When I was installing my
vacuum system and gyros, I just could not believe the amount of junk
required to make it work. Vac pump (which requires some small amount of
engine power to operate), filter, regulator, hoses, vac guage, big a$$ heavy
gyros, fittings, etc. If I can get rid of all this crap, and shed a few
pounds off the airframe in the process, it's worth the $2k for the Dynon.
I'll recover some of the cost from selling off the vacuum junk.
I used to consider myself a very old fashioned, conservative type of
airplane builder/flyer. However, the advances in modern aviation
electronics is really starting to appeal to me. How could I resist? When you
work for Intel, you can't help but want to be state-of-the-art. (donning
asbestos suit for Intel/AMD flame war)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
300+ hrs.
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Dave,
I have an RV-4 that has no noticeable shimmy in the mains. However I
discovered two phenomena that creates "shimmy" in the tail area. The first
is not keeping the stick back in your crotch when taxying at more than
walking speed. On a nose heavy RV the tailwheel has little pressure and
skips over the ground surface if not forced down.
The second phenomenon is out-of-round tailwheels. The tailwheel often turns
at 3000 RPM on take-off and landing. The small tailwheel can create a hell
of a noise in the tail cone and shimmies if it is out of round. After
finding that the tailwheels wear non uniformly, I decided to see if I could
easily grind them back to concentricity. I used a coarse drum sander in my
drill press, and chucked the tailwheel axle bolt in a drill press. Then I
slowly ran the tailwheel against the drum sander. The wheel must be at some
angle(30-45 degrees) to the drum so that it doesn't spin with the drum. I
did this to a few wheels that I had saved so that I have a quick
replacement when needed. I'm not just trying to save money. My wheels are
now truer than the wheels that Van's provide. I think that the initial
eccentricity of the wheels speeds up the wear and useful life of the wheel.
Now my only problem is finding a persistent oil leak at the front of the
engine ( and, yes, my mechanic already replaced the front seal.)
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
3000 exciting Hrs.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: landing lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I will be offering a kit in the near future...
http://www.creativair.com/ex13a/index.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: landing lights
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
I would like to add a flasher unit to the landing
lights.
What is the easiest way to do this.
I see that some of you use a regular auto type unit.
I would appreciate it, if some one send me or fax
drawing showing how to connect this to the system..
Thanks you
Bert
rv6a
finishing electrical
Message 20
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| Subject: | RC Allen Artificial Horizon Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
I have had some trouble with my RC Allen artificial horizon at about 125
hours. The pendulum valves underneath the rotor are occasionally sticking
and the gyro failed to erect during taxi on one or two occasions. Another
time the horoizon bar piched down for a few minutes in flight.
A search of the archives indicates others have had problems around the 125
hr mark.
These gyros come apart easily and I did find stickiness in the pendulum
valves, after cleaning the pendulum pivots the gyro erects promptly however
now that I am watching the AH more closely I am seeing what I percieve to be
greater turning & acceleration errors.
Therefore my question to any instrument techie is this; should there be a
slight preload on these pendulum valve pivots from the end caps or are they
there to simply keep the valve assembly from coming off the support shaft.
Putting it another way, should the pendulum valves swing as freely as
possible or should they have a slight preload or friction to supress turning
errors? Is any lubricant used?
It's great what you can try/learn with a homebuilt!
Thanks,
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
I would like to add a flasher unit to the landing
lights.
What is the easiest way to do this.
Hi Bert
The old Cessna flashing beacons had 100 watt bulbs, and their flashers could
handle two lights.
Many of these flashers have been removed for strobe light upgrades so you
may find one in the back of somebodys hangar.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Glass Panels vs Vac Gyros. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Michael and Brian,
Like you Brian I will be removing the vacuum pump drive and the vacuum pump
from my engine compartment.
I will not be installing the various expensive fittings, hoses, fire wall
penetrations, regulator, filter and a number of gauges, some with noticeable
weight. A lot of potential failure points will be gone.
To create redundancy of vital flight information I will rely on Rocky
Mountain Instrument's two units, A backup battery system and the now popular
Ipaq with a good compliment of programming for an additional level of stand
alone information.
With a light starter an Odyssey battery and electronic ignition some more
pounds will be shed.
The trade off in potential failure points, Mechanical versus Electronic
seems to favor the electronics, we'll see in time if the reliability trends
continue.
Some custom built finishing touches such as metal foot well floors and a
custom built switch sub panel to the RV6-A with O-360 C/S will add about six
to eight pounds total to the airframe.
With this RV project and general personal well being in mind I have shed
about fifteen pounds so far from my frame, the goal is twenty five.
All in all a rough guess of about 30 lb.from the airframe after accounting
for custom additions.
The personal weight loss will be all but nullified by the wifes hand bag.
{;-)! Adjustable C of G Ballast?!
Brian, I wonder how much horse power it takes to drive the Vacuum system?
Does anyone have a reasonably accurate number to quote?
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glass Panels vs Vac Gyros.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Saffold"
> ><michaelsaffold@hotmail.com>
> >
> >First, I did check the archives. There was a thread about this a few
years
> >ago. I'm pretty sure there have been some improvements in electric
> >instruments in the mean time. So, I would like to hear some well thought
> >out arguments on both sides. comparing state of the art electrics with
> >reliable old vacuum instruments.
>
> "reliable old vacuum instruments"? Oxymoron alert! ;)
>
> I have the standard sucky, whiny vacuum gyros and can't wait to offload
them
> on Ebay. I'm going to check out the Dynon EFIS at SNF. I plan to install
> one as soon as I can afford to lay down the cash. The reliability of
> electronics these days is simply outstanding. When I was installing my
> vacuum system and gyros, I just could not believe the amount of junk
> required to make it work. Vac pump (which requires some small amount of
> engine power to operate), filter, regulator, hoses, vac guage, big a$$
heavy
> gyros, fittings, etc. If I can get rid of all this crap, and shed a few
> pounds off the airframe in the process, it's worth the $2k for the Dynon.
> I'll recover some of the cost from selling off the vacuum junk.
>
> I used to consider myself a very old fashioned, conservative type of
> airplane builder/flyer. However, the advances in modern aviation
> electronics is really starting to appeal to me. How could I resist? When
you
> work for Intel, you can't help but want to be state-of-the-art. (donning
> asbestos suit for Intel/AMD flame war)
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 300+ hrs.
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | [ Bob Paulo ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Paulo <Bobpaulo@aol.com>
Subject: RV Project For Sale
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Bobpaulo@aol.com.03.23.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: landing lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Perry" <eperry@san.rr.com>
I'm using one and I got it off eBay for $4. It seems to work great and I
bench tested it overnight before I installed it. It works great. Just make
sure you get the one for the 14volt system.
Ed Perry
eperry@san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: landing lights
> --> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
> I would like to add a flasher unit to the landing
> lights.
> What is the easiest way to do this.
>
> Hi Bert
>
> The old Cessna flashing beacons had 100 watt bulbs, and their flashers
could
> handle two lights.
> Many of these flashers have been removed for strobe light upgrades so you
> may find one in the back of somebodys hangar.
>
> George McNutt
> Langley, B.C.
>
>
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I've seen a reference of a black 4 in the archives. Does anyone know where
I can find a picture of this, or any other, black RV.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Thanks Louis.
Went flying today and it didn't shimmy once.
From my Pitts flying days, the stick back is burned in.... I thought that
maybe the opposite might be happening with the RV i.e. full up was planting
the tail harder, springing the tailwheel down further and introducing more
caster and sending it into the high speed wobblies.
Dave
RV-6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: shimmy
> --> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
>
>
> Dave,
>
> I have an RV-4 that has no noticeable shimmy in the mains. However I
> discovered two phenomena that creates "shimmy" in the tail area. The first
> is not keeping the stick back in your crotch when taxying at more than
> walking speed. On a nose heavy RV the tailwheel has little pressure and
> skips over the ground surface if not forced down.
>
> The second phenomenon is out-of-round tailwheels. The tailwheel often
turns
> at 3000 RPM on take-off and landing. The small tailwheel can create a hell
> of a noise in the tail cone and shimmies if it is out of round. After
> finding that the tailwheels wear non uniformly, I decided to see if I
could
> easily grind them back to concentricity. I used a coarse drum sander in my
> drill press, and chucked the tailwheel axle bolt in a drill press. Then I
> slowly ran the tailwheel against the drum sander. The wheel must be at
some
> angle(30-45 degrees) to the drum so that it doesn't spin with the drum. I
> did this to a few wheels that I had saved so that I have a quick
> replacement when needed. I'm not just trying to save money. My wheels are
> now truer than the wheels that Van's provide. I think that the initial
> eccentricity of the wheels speeds up the wear and useful life of the
wheel.
> Now my only problem is finding a persistent oil leak at the front of the
> engine ( and, yes, my mechanic already replaced the front seal.)
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
> 3000 exciting Hrs.
Message 27
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<rv4-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Cleveland 10-30 master cyl. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Smith" <phil@analysis-inc.com>
Hi guys,
I'm putting some right side floor mounted brakes in a RV-6 that I just purchased
and I am looking for a pair of Cleveland 10-30 master cylinders. I purchased
everything I needed except for the cylinders from Van's the other day. They do
not stock them anymore.
Thanks,
Phil Smith
916BN
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: landing lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
HCRV6@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
>Bert: Check out www.perihelion.com. Eric Jones has a neat little wig wag
>flasher that is so compact and lightweight you can mount it just about
>anywhere, and Eric claims it will handle up to 250 watts per light. I have
>been running one on the bench off and on for a few months with 50 watt lights
>and no problems so far, It remains to be seen how it will work in the long
>haul. Eric's E-mail is emjones@charter.net.
>
>Harry Crosby
>Pleasanton, California
>RV-6, firewall forward
>
>
>
Website listed wrong here is the correct website:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> I've seen a reference of a black 4 in the archives. Does anyone know
where
> I can find a picture of this, or any other, black RV.
>
>
Probably not what you are looking for as it does not show the whole
airplane, but I have a photo of General Jim Cash's F1 Rocket at
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/Chile.htm
near the bottom of the page.
My personal opinion is that this is simply a stunning airplane. Lots of
dusting required though.
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
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