Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:24 AM - flap wiring (Bob Hartley)
2. 06:35 AM - Re: GRT EFIS (WAS: TruTrak Stand Alone Altitude Hold) (Phil Birkelbach)
3. 06:50 AM - Re: Stolen engine (Scott Bilinski)
4. 07:32 AM - Superior XP360 (Robert E. Newhall II)
5. 07:36 AM - Re: Route to OR... (Jim Wittman)
6. 08:20 AM - Re: flap wiring (John Furey)
7. 08:59 AM - Re: Stolen engine (Randall Henderson)
8. 09:05 AM - Re: flap wiring (Phil Birkelbach)
9. 09:14 AM - Re: Looking for a used RMI MicroEncoder (SportAV8R@aol.com)
10. 09:25 AM - proseal question (CRAWFORD,THOMAS A)
11. 09:38 AM - Re: Superior XP360 (Scott Bilinski)
12. 09:57 AM - Re: proseal question (Don Diehl)
13. 10:11 AM - Re: proseal question (glenn williams)
14. 10:12 AM - Re: proseal question (Rob Miller)
15. 10:29 AM - Re: proseal question (Scott Bilinski)
16. 10:44 AM - Re: flap wiring (Elsa & Henry)
17. 10:48 AM - Re: TruTrak Stand Alone Altitude Hold (Ed Perry)
18. 10:51 AM - Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler (rpmiller)
19. 11:08 AM - Re: proseal question (Phil Birkelbach)
20. 11:13 AM - Re: flap wiring (Bob Hartley)
21. 11:16 AM - Re: proseal question (C. Rabaut)
22. 11:22 AM - Re: proseal question (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
23. 11:24 AM - Re: Superior XP360 (Laird Owens)
24. 11:50 AM - Re: Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
25. 12:03 PM - Re: Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler (Bill VonDane)
26. 12:21 PM - Re: Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler (Elsa & Henry)
27. 01:00 PM - Re: proseal question (Elsa & Henry)
28. 01:15 PM - Avionics Location - Offset From Panel Centerline? (John H. Wiegenstein)
29. 01:15 PM - battery connection (Bert Forero)
30. 01:30 PM - Re: flap wiring (Schilling Karl)
31. 01:34 PM - Re: flap wiring (Schilling Karl)
32. 01:42 PM - Re: proseal question (Jim Jewell)
33. 01:56 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (david just david)
34. 02:18 PM - Re: flap wiring (Scott Bilinski)
35. 02:22 PM - Re: RV6 - Wood on gear legs (Tom Gummo)
36. 02:57 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (Scott Bilinski)
37. 03:06 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (Kyle Boatright)
38. 04:19 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (Dana Overall)
39. 04:21 PM - RV8 rear seat hinge holes (Geoff Evans)
40. 04:34 PM - RV8 main spar bulkhead channels (Geoff Evans)
41. 06:26 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (Gary Coonan)
42. 07:37 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (RV6 Flyer)
43. 07:43 PM - Re: RV8 main spar bulkhead channels (Terry Watson)
44. 08:27 PM - Re: proseal question (HCRV6@aol.com)
45. 08:46 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (kempthornes)
46. 08:57 PM - Carb mixture hookup question. (HCRV6@aol.com)
47. 09:23 PM - Re: Carb mixture hookup question. (Jerry Calvert)
48. 09:45 PM - Re: Vision MicroSystems Fuel Flow Sender (Vanremog@aol.com)
49. 09:49 PM - Re: Carb mixture hookup question. (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
After wiring a Garmin 430 I can't figure out this simple task:
The flap motor has 2 wires. Reversing the polarity causes the flaps to
change direction.
My momentary flap switch (ON)/OFF/(ON) has 3 wires. How do I wire these 3
wires to the flap motor to change direction?
Thank you
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: GRT EFIS (WAS: TruTrak Stand Alone Altitude Hold) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
> I have been really keen on GRT's new EFIS offering. Apparently, Greg
> from GRT designed a lot of the FMS software for the 737, so he really
> knows about these types of systems. Curiously, I noticed that his EFIS
> system concept looks a lot like Sierra Flight systems. Have you ever
> noticed that their Sierra EAU engine monitor that works with their EFIS
> looks identical to the EIS? I wonder if Greg had a part in that system
> as well. Greg's system in my view looks right on in terms of
> implementation.
The Sierra system IS an EIS according to the guy at SnF last year.
>
> I really like the idea of the GRT EFIS system effectively operating as a
> MFD or Slave to an outboard GPS (UPS & Garmin have a significant leg up
> in technology). This is how all of the major avionics vendors are
> structuring their MFD's and electronic HSI's. The BMA system lacks this
> feature as their GPS is hardwired in and you cannot use your IFR
> certified GPS as a primary NAV source on the BMA EFIS.
I agree I think that the GRT EFIS will be the system to beat.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Stolen engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Homeowners specifically does NOT cover aircraft.
At 10:11 PM 3/26/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>
>Yep, my wife put up a bit of grief over the $350 bucks claiming our home
>owners insurance would cover anything. Doubtful it would have covered this,
>glad I didn't give in now.
>
>Like I ever do anyway...... :-)
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Stolen engine
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>>
>> Yes, it does. But I paid $508.00/ year
>>
>> Terry
>> Do not archive
>>
>> Where was the builders insurance? 300 bucks a year sounds pretty cheap
>> after the fact. If you are debating builders insurance I hope you learn
>> from this.
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2@yahoo.com>
Has anyone flown behind an XP360? I was hoping to get
some actual feedback beyond the marketing brochures.
Can you tell the difference from a standard Lycoming?
Bob Newhall
Boulder, CO
RV7 Fuselage
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Wittman" <fmico@iaxs.net>
I don't know Scotts Bluff but I can vouch for the people at North Platte and
the restaurant on the field. We've stopped there a half dozen times and
always found warm cookies at the FBO and the good restaurant that Hal
mentioned.
Jim
MIC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Subject: RE: RV-List: Route to OR...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
<svanarts@unionsafe.com>
I'd like to know. I'm probably going to be stopping there for the night on
my way to OSH.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: kempthornes [mailto:kempthornes@earthlink.net]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Route to OR...
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Hi Nick from Nebraska!
I stop in Scotts Bluff often. That's where the west really begins. There
is a courtesy jalopy waiting for you at the FBO if you stay at the (name
goes here) bed and breakfast which sets a fine spread in the morning. No
garbage gooey buns and wobbly coffee at this fine place. What is the
name? The FBO knows. Maybe you do.
I stopped one time in (North Platte? Sidney?? ) wish I knew the name
because the restaurant on the field is very fine and has '50's prices.
Nebraska is in the fifties mostly, huh? Wide open spaces and nice people.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Very simple. 1 2
3 4
5 6
The flap motor wires go to 3 & 4
Connect 1 & 6 together
Connect 2 & 5 together
Connect 5 or 6 to power and the other (5 or 6) to Ground
Call me if I can help
330-592-4944
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Stolen engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
GA News (www.generalaviationnews.com) has a "Theft" section where victims of
theft can list stolen items at no charge. Might be worth putting it in
there.
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Short answer... You can't. You'll either need a DPDT switch (six wires) or
a couple of DPST or DPDT relays. Wire the flaps up with one polarity to the
first relay, reverse the polarity on the other relay, supply 12V to the (+)
side of each relay coil then run the (-) of each relay to one of the outside
positions of the switch and ground the center (common) of the switch. If
both relays come on together you WILL blow the fuse/CB. There is a circuit
out there somewhere that can do this with one relay but it requires that the
switch carry all the current of the flap motor and I'd rather have only the
coil current in my switch and let the (easily replaceable) relay handle the
flap motor current, for this you will need two relays. I admit this is no
big deal on the little 3A flap motor so do what you think is best. Let me
know if nobody responds with any circuit drawings and I'll see if I can come
up with one.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: flap wiring
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
>
> After wiring a Garmin 430 I can't figure out this simple task:
>
> The flap motor has 2 wires. Reversing the polarity causes the flaps to
> change direction.
>
> My momentary flap switch (ON)/OFF/(ON) has 3 wires. How do I wire these 3
> wires to the flap motor to change direction?
>
> Thank you
> Bob Hartley
> RV9A
> CA
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for a used RMI MicroEncoder |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Charlie: you're kidding, right? Part with my RMI?
Since I use it as my sole altimeter, there's no separate encoder, no
correspondence checks, and never any doubt what ATC is seeing on my mode-C
squawk. Got the unit flooded with rainwater 2 years ago and all that crapped
out on it was the power supply module for the electroluminescent display; an
easy fix... that's bulletproof design! Literally was awash in water when I
powered it up, unawares... dumped quite a bit out when pulled for repairs.
Good luck finding someone to part with theirs!
Cheers!
Bill B
> Hi listers,
> Does anyone out there have an Rocky Mountain Instruments MicroEncoder they
> would like to sell?
> Charlie Kuss
> Please contact me "off list"
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A" <toys@ufl.edu>
After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I just repaired a small leak in
one of the tanks with some proseal that has been on my shelf for the year since
I built them. It does not appear to be "firming up" after 3 days. The can says
the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it will firm up in time, or
should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
Thanks,
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
RV6A
Wings done- finally.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I dont have one, but from what I have read it is smoother and creates more
than 180 HP.
At 07:31 AM 3/27/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2@yahoo.com>
>
>Has anyone flown behind an XP360? I was hoping to get
>some actual feedback beyond the marketing brochures.
>Can you tell the difference from a standard Lycoming?
>
>Bob Newhall
>Boulder, CO
>RV7 Fuselage
>
>http://platinum.yahoo.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Diehl <diehldon@attbi.com>
> After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I just repaired a small leak in
> one of the tanks with some proseal that has been on my shelf for the year
> since
> I built them. It does not appear to be "firming up" after 3 days. The can says
> the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it will firm up in time, or
> should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Crawford
> Gainesville, FL
> RV6A
> Wings done- finally.
My experience has been IF THE PROSEAL WAS MIXED PROPERLY, it will set up,
even if several years old. Try keeping the tank in a warm place for several
days before starting over. If you start over, measure and mix carefully.
Don't ask me how know all about leaky tanks and Proseal.
Don Diehl
Bremerton WA
RV-4, N28EW
200 delightful hours
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
If you have a heat lamp. place near the EMPTY fuel
tank by the proseal and let it heat soak for about 2
to 4 hours. Let stand overnight. If it is not firm by
the next day use a phenolic or plexi scraper to remove
the new proseal. Mix a new batch using more
accelerator than usual. (mix thougrougly)If you have
any MEK mix it in as well and it will accelerate the
curing time.
Regards
Glenn Williams
do not archive
--- "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A" <toys@ufl.edu> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A"
> <toys@ufl.edu>
>
> After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I just
> repaired a small leak in
> one of the tanks with some proseal that has been on
> my shelf for the year since
> I built them. It does not appear to be "firming up"
> after 3 days. The can says
> the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it
> will firm up in time, or
> should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Crawford
> Gainesville, FL
> RV6A
> Wings done- finally.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
If it isn't hard after three days, it probably won't achieve this. After
three days, it should be about as hard as silicon sealant when it is
completely cured. Of course, the Pro Seal needs a couple of weeks or so
to reach its maximum cured state.
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 53 hours
--- "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A" <toys@ufl.edu> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A" <toys@ufl.edu>
>
> After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I just repaired a small
> leak in
> one of the tanks with some proseal that has been on my shelf for the
> year since
> I built them. It does not appear to be "firming up" after 3 days. The
> can says
> the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it will firm up in time,
> or
> should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Crawford
> Gainesville, FL
> RV6A
> Wings done- finally.
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I should harden but VERY slowly. I use old sealaant in non critical places
and it really takes a LONG time to firm up. Wait a week and see. If you
need more get new. Also call the factory listed on the can and discuss with
them to see if there might be a problem.
At 12:25 PM 3/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A" <toys@ufl.edu>
>
>After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I just repaired a small leak in
>one of the tanks with some proseal that has been on my shelf for the year
>since
>I built them. It does not appear to be "firming up" after 3 days. The can
says
>the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it will firm up in time, or
>should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tom Crawford
>Gainesville, FL
>RV6A
>Wings done- finally.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
The way you describe the switch with only 3 wires coming out of it (and no
other terminals) it is a single-pole-double-throw switch (SPDT) with a
center-off position and no way can you wire that without 2 external SPDT
relays or solid-state switches to accomplish the polarity change and power
on-off function.The relay coils would be powered so one of them is powered
in the "flaps-up" and the other relay would be powered in the "flaps down" .
The flap motor would be connected to the common terminals and the two other
terminals would be cross-connected to the power supply so that polarity
reversal occurs with one relay energized and vice versa
Cheers!! ----Henry Hore
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Stand Alone Altitude Hold |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Perry" <eperry@san.rr.com>
Hi Laird,
I was at CCB on Tuesday working on my -8, was that you or your Dad that
departed? That was nothing less than awesome. I have not seen your -6 in
anything but pictures, is that an O-360/CS combo? If it wasn't you guys it
sure looked like your airplane.....
Ed Perry
eperry@san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laird Owens" <owens@aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Stand Alone Altitude Hold
> --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
> Just ran across this. Anyone know any more about it?
>
> http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsdigiflightslick.html
>
>
> Laird
> RV-6 (with TruTrak Digitrak)
> SoCal
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Has anyone got any information on the Aero Carb, (www.AeroConversions.com),?
I have an )-320 with no Carb and I came across this thing which on the face
of it looks good, but than so do a lot of things. On an unrelated note: I
checked in the archives about the wing walk doubler and I just want to know
does anyone have a reason/experience with having the doubler overhang the
aft spar that suggests that this is a good idea? I am planning to cut mine
off flush with the aft edge of the rear spar flange. The plans show a big
overhang but the dimension called out would only overhang by a smidge.
do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
When I pro-sealed my AOA ports onto the wings with some really old (> year)
Pro-seal it took over a week for it to set up, but it did set.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A" <toys@ufl.edu>
Subject: RV-List: proseal question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A" <toys@ufl.edu>
>
> After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I just repaired a small leak
in
> one of the tanks with some proseal that has been on my shelf for the year
since
> I built them. It does not appear to be "firming up" after 3 days. The can
says
> the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it will firm up in time,
or
> should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Crawford
> Gainesville, FL
> RV6A
> Wings done- finally.
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
Can you explain your diagram for me please. Its almost Friday.
Thank you
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
>From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: flap wiring
>Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 11:20:36 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
>Very simple. 1 2
> 3 4
> 5 6
>
>The flap motor wires go to 3 & 4
>Connect 1 & 6 together
>Connect 2 & 5 together
>Connect 5 or 6 to power and the other (5 or 6) to Ground
>
>Call me if I can help
>330-592-4944
>
>
t salomost
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Tom,
Once it took almost 2 weeks for my proseal to cure (I use the fingernail
dig method to confirm proper adhesion & texture). But that was due to a
bunch of "muggy days" with high humidity... but you don't get that in
Florida... right?
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: CRAWFORD,THOMAS A <toys@ufl.edu>
Subject: RV-List: proseal question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A" <toys@ufl.edu>
>
> After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I just repaired a small leak
in
> one of the tanks with some proseal that has been on my shelf for the year
since
> I built them. It does not appear to be "firming up" after 3 days. The can
says
> the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it will firm up in time,
or
> should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Crawford
> Gainesville, FL
> RV6A
> Wings done- finally.
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Glenn my experience was that MEK thinning lengthened the curing time. Am I
wrong here?
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
<snip>
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
If you have
any MEK mix it in as well and it will accelerate the
curing time.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
I'm reminded of the old saying "Paper never refuses ink".
Everything you read is always correct, right??? ;-)
No flame intended.
Laird
RV-6 (700 trouble-free hrs behind a new Lycoming 0-360...except that
time I left the rag in the carb after working on the aircleaner
box....doh!)
Do not archive
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>I dont have one, but from what I have read it is smoother and creates more
>than 180 HP.
>
>
>At 07:31 AM 3/27/03 -0800, you wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2@yahoo.com>
>>
>>Has anyone flown behind an XP360? I was hoping to get
>>some actual feedback beyond the marketing brochures.
>>Can you tell the difference from a standard Lycoming?
>>
>>Bob Newhall
>>Boulder, CO
>>RV7 Fuselage
>>
>>http://platinum.yahoo.com
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Cut it off.
There is a potential for the flap to catch it, particularly if the uhm
antiscuff tape is used. You will find this in the archives no doubt.
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: rpmiller [mailto:rpmiller@1usa.net]
Subject: RV-List: Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler
--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Has anyone got any information on the Aero Carb, (www.AeroConversions.com),?
I have an )-320 with no Carb and I came across this thing which on the face
of it looks good, but than so do a lot of things. On an unrelated note: I
checked in the archives about the wing walk doubler and I just want to know
does anyone have a reason/experience with having the doubler overhang the
aft spar that suggests that this is a good idea? I am planning to cut mine
off flush with the aft edge of the rear spar flange. The plans show a big
overhang but the dimension called out would only overhang by a smidge.
do not archive
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
This company is owned and operated by John Monnett, and I can say without
any hesitation that I WOULD NEVER do business with him or his family...
They once screwed me, and other people that I know, big time!
However, This is just my opinion ... I know nothing about this product...
-Bill VonDane - RV-8A
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Subject: RV-List: Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler
--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Has anyone got any information on the Aero Carb, (www.AeroConversions.com),?
I have an )-320 with no Carb and I came across this thing which on the face
of it looks good, but than so do a lot of things. On an unrelated note: I
checked in the archives about the wing walk doubler and I just want to know
does anyone have a reason/experience with having the doubler overhang the
aft spar that suggests that this is a good idea? I am planning to cut mine
off flush with the aft edge of the rear spar flange. The plans show a big
overhang but the dimension called out would only overhang by a smidge.
do not archive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Aero Carb, Wing Walk Doubler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Re the wing walk doubler, I have heard of three or four builders having
trouble with the flap leading edge skin, that nests below the doubler,
snagging it as the flaps are retracted. They had the SS tape on the flaps
that snagged and ending up having to remove the flap to fix it and cut the
doubler off. I used the Teflon tape that Van's substituted for the SS one
and it was wide enough that I could wrap it around the lip of the flap's
skin. If I were to do it again, I would cut off the rear of the doubler. I
put several NO STEP labels on the area between the wing trailing edge and
the wing-walk strip.
Cheers!!-------Henry Hore
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I had some Pro-seal in one of our refrigerators for over two years and
recently I mixed up some to glue on a rubber heel on the wife's
shoe.---Surprise!-Surprise! it set-up OK! I've heard of others having the
same type of experience and they had theirs also stored in the 'Fridge.
Wouldn't use it for fuel sealing though!
Cheers!!---Henry Hore
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Avionics Location - Offset From Panel Centerline? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John H. Wiegenstein" <johnw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
Getting ready to layout the panel in my -6 tip-up, and data on the UPSAT
GX-60 GPS/Comm I plan to use shows depth behind panel of 11+ inches. This
is also true for transponder (8+ inches), and maybe a few other items. With
only 6 inches between the panel and subpanel, it would appear the avionics
stack has to go right of centerline so as to allow a hole to be cut in the
subpanel that will stay clear of the vertical bracket that mounts the canopy
release actuator shaft. This would then leave some extra room on the left
side for flight instrument layout, CDI, etc., some of which also will be
deep enough to require a penetration through the subpanel.
Am I looking at all this correctly, or missing something? Some RV-6s seem
to have centerline avionics stacks, but maybe they are sliders and don't
have the bracket in the way like the tip-ups. Or are people dispensing with
the canopy release bracket and linkage, a setup which looks (to me, anyway)
to be of marginal value in most situations? Either way, it looks like
that subpanel is going to be pretty well punctured by the time everything is
in place. . . .
John H. Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 S/N 23961 - N727JW (reserved)
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | battery connection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
I just find out from van's that the new batteries
come with a top plastic, handle?
Beforer, they were more, flat on top..
So what?
I had made my connections to the fire wall
following the plans, and have drilled all holes, for
the battery cables that way.
Also I had checked with a friend who just finished
his rv6a, I confirmed all my measurements were correct.
There is not way to connect the cables to the fire
wall...
I do not know what to do now,, the box is not made
for the new batteries... I have the concord ..xc.
Vans insist that they do not have the old style ...
that even the rg25 (regular) is ther same... I do not
believe them...
I will see them at Sun and fun, and see what they said..
Tought I would let you know for those who have not
drill hole on the box...
Bert
rv6a
Do not archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling@ssfhs.org>
Try this. Karl
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hartley [mailto:rv9a_9@hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: flap wiring
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
Can you explain your diagram for me please. Its almost Friday.
Thank you
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
>From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: flap wiring
>Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 11:20:36 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
>Very simple. 1 2
> 3 4
> 5 6
>
>The flap motor wires go to 3 & 4
>Connect 1 & 6 together
>Connect 2 & 5 together
>Connect 5 or 6 to power and the other (5 or 6) to Ground
>
>Call me if I can help
>330-592-4944
>
>
t salomost
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling@ssfhs.org>
If this doesn't help let me know and I will try to provide more. I won't be
able to answer you till in the morning. I am in Indy and I am leaving for
the day now. Karl
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hartley [mailto:rv9a_9@hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: flap wiring
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
Can you explain your diagram for me please. Its almost Friday.
Thank you
Bob Hartley
RV9A
CA
>From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: flap wiring
>Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 11:20:36 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
>Very simple. 1 2
> 3 4
> 5 6
>
>The flap motor wires go to 3 & 4
>Connect 1 & 6 together
>Connect 2 & 5 together
>Connect 5 or 6 to power and the other (5 or 6) to Ground
>
>Call me if I can help
>330-592-4944
>
>
t salomost
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
The same experience here, chilling does seem to extend shelf life.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: proseal question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> I had some Pro-seal in one of our refrigerators for over two years and
> recently I mixed up some to glue on a rubber heel on the wife's
> shoe.---Surprise!-Surprise! it set-up OK! I've heard of others having the
> same type of experience and they had theirs also stored in the 'Fridge.
> Wouldn't use it for fuel sealing though!
> Cheers!!---Henry Hore
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
hello,
well from what ive been told, they have had some problems with
reliability ??
though ive only talked with a few ppl, the response was the
same..........so for me, i would rather pay a little more for the real
thing (ie lycoming).... just my opinion!!
dave
a&p
soon to start 8a
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I have my flaps set up so I just flip the switch to the up position, when
the flaps are 100% retracted the flap motor stops. This requires a limit
switch which I mounted on the flap motor assy. When the flaps are up the
limit switch hits the arm rest turning off the motor via the relay.
At 11:03 AM 3/27/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>Short answer... You can't. You'll either need a DPDT switch (six wires) or
>a couple of DPST or DPDT relays. Wire the flaps up with one polarity to the
>first relay, reverse the polarity on the other relay, supply 12V to the (+)
>side of each relay coil then run the (-) of each relay to one of the outside
>positions of the switch and ground the center (common) of the switch. If
>both relays come on together you WILL blow the fuse/CB. There is a circuit
>out there somewhere that can do this with one relay but it requires that the
>switch carry all the current of the flap motor and I'd rather have only the
>coil current in my switch and let the (easily replaceable) relay handle the
>flap motor current, for this you will need two relays. I admit this is no
>big deal on the little 3A flap motor so do what you think is best. Let me
>know if nobody responds with any circuit drawings and I'll see if I can come
>up with one.
>
>Godspeed,
>
>Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
>http://www.myrv7.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: flap wiring
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hartley" <rv9a_9@hotmail.com>
>>
>> After wiring a Garmin 430 I can't figure out this simple task:
>>
>> The flap motor has 2 wires. Reversing the polarity causes the flaps to
>> change direction.
>>
>> My momentary flap switch (ON)/OFF/(ON) has 3 wires. How do I wire these 3
>> wires to the flap motor to change direction?
>>
>> Thank you
>> Bob Hartley
>> RV9A
>> CA
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV6 - Wood on gear legs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Me too.
Tom
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 - Wood on gear legs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 3/26/2003 9:01:21 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Lenleg@aol.com
> writes:
>
> > I have the Rocket fairings also with no wood.
>
> That's funny, when I look at a Rocket I get wood ;
> ).
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Any way you could find out details on reliability issues? On paper they are
of better design.
At 03:00 PM 3/27/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
>
>
>hello,
>well from what ive been told, they have had some problems with
>reliability ??
> though ive only talked with a few ppl, the response was the
>same..........so for me, i would rather pay a little more for the real
>thing (ie lycoming).... just my opinion!!
>
>dave
>a&p
>soon to start 8a
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
David,
Reliability? That's never come up on the list before. Since there are not
very many XP's flying, I have a hard time believing any second hand reports
of reliability concerns. Do you personally know anyone who has had a
problem and what the problem was? Whether you have or have not, you really
need to follow up on your note with some specifics, or at least say "It was
second (or third, or fourth) hand info"...
I'd hate for an unsubstantiated seed to get planted on the
RV list about reliability problems with this engine. That's the kind of
thing people will remember for a dozen years, whether there is any proof or
not.
KB- Flying a "Boatright" 0-320, so I don't have a dog in this fight...
----- Original Message -----
From: "david just david" <davlaw1@juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Superior XP360
> --> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
>
>
> hello,
> well from what ive been told, they have had some problems with
> reliability ??
> though ive only talked with a few ppl, the response was the
> same..........so for me, i would rather pay a little more for the real
> thing (ie lycoming).... just my opinion!!
>
> dave
> a&p
> soon to start 8a
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
David, I'm joining in now too. If you have first hand information, please
post it so it can be brought into the open for discussion. My boat just
sold today, so I've got XP money just burning a hole in my pocket.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Superior XP360
>Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 15:00:35 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
>
>
>hello,
>well from what ive been told, they have had some problems with
>reliability ??
> though ive only talked with a few ppl, the response was the
>same..........so for me, i would rather pay a little more for the real
>thing (ie lycoming).... just my opinion!!
>
>dave
>a&p
>soon to start 8a
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | RV8 rear seat hinge holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
I'm looking for some advice on rear seat hinges.
The hinge halves that mount on the floor for the rear seat go over the top of a
pre-punched hole in the floor skin where the floor will attach to the F-814C
below. Drawing 29 shows only five rivets in each hinge (holding it to the
floor) with no hole in the hinge to match the pre-punched hole in the floor
underneath it where the floor attaches to the sub-structure with pop rivets.
Should I...
A) not drill this hole through the hinge and then subsequently not attach the
floor to the F-814C at this location, or
B) drill this hole through the hinge so I can pop rivet the floor to the F-814C
later, or
C) drill this hole through the hinge but countersink the hinge and use a CS4-4
pop rivet here instead of the LP4-3s that will be used to attach the floor
elsewhere?
I mention option C because it looks like later when I mount the seat, the rivet
heads along the hinge might interfere with each other when the seat is all the
way back. Does this actually happen, or does the seat back contact the rear
bulkhead before the hinge closes enough for the rivet heads to touch?
I can offset the rivet heads on the seat part of the hinge from the floor part
of the hinge so they won't interfere, but adding this one extra hole takes away
that option in this location.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB Fuselage
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | RV8 main spar bulkhead channels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
I'm building a QB fuselage.
When I fit the F-804PP main spar bulkhead channels to the fuselage, there is
about a 3/16" gap between the flange of the channel and the F-804C to which the
channel is riveted. Although the F-804C is flexible, the gap is big enough that
it will be darn near impossible to pop rivet the F-804PP (or even install a
cleco) without pushing the F-804Cs out from the inside. Unfortunately, there is
no access to do this with the spar channel in place.
The gap is most prominent in the middle of the fuselage, with a smaller gap at
the top and almost no gap at the bottom. Has anyone else noticed this problem?
-----
Also, the drawings don't specify how far the spar channel should be pushed on
to the F-804C. Should I just go enough to get the required edge distance for
drilling the holes in the F-804C, or should I go farther? It doesn't seem to me
like it will make much difference one way or the other (we're only talking
about a 1/4 inch or so that I can play with here), but I don't want to drill
the holes now, only to realize later that I should have put them in different
place to make something else fit better.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB Fuselage
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 41
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|
<210691D7AF75D6119B7900508B8BD1194BDD18@sbserver.stingerindustries.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Coonan <gcoonan@comcast.net>
There are not many, if any, that are flying. I have one mounted, wired,
propped and cowled. It will be flying this summer so, I am afraid any
info will have to wait till then.
Gary Coonan
Rockvale, TN
RV-7 N696TT (Avionics)
gcoonan@comcast.net
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert E.
Newhall II
Subject: RV-List: Superior XP360
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II"
<renewhall2@yahoo.com>
Has anyone flown behind an XP360? I was hoping to get
some actual feedback beyond the marketing brochures.
Can you tell the difference from a standard Lycoming?
Bob Newhall
Boulder, CO
RV7 Fuselage
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
WHO told you that?
I have Superior Millenium Cylinders S/N: 8, 9, 10, & 11 on my engine and
they have been flying GREAT for the past 5.5 years. From what I have seen
of Superior Air Part, their parts are equal if not superior to the Lycoming
parts.
Did the person that told you there were problems put their own together?
Would like to have a name and contact info.
Gary A. Sobek
FAA A&P
EAA TC
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,259 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Superior XP360
--> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
hello,
well from what ive been told, they have had some problems with
reliability ??
though ive only talked with a few ppl, the response was the
same..........so for me, i would rather pay a little more for the real
thing (ie lycoming).... just my opinion!!
dave
a&p
soon to start 8a
Message 43
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| Subject: | RV8 main spar bulkhead channels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
When you install the arm rests, switch panel, and throttle quadrant it will
be obvious that the channel caps need to be drilled quite a bit inboard from
where they would be if you pushed them tight onto the bulkhead the cover. I
would suggest putting off drilling them until then. I did it too early and
had to re-do them.
Terry
Also, the drawings don't specify how far the spar channel should be pushed
on
to the F-804C. Should I just go enough to get the required edge distance for
drilling the holes in the F-804C, or should I go farther? It doesn't seem to
me
like it will make much difference one way or the other (we're only talking
about a 1/4 inch or so that I can play with here), but I don't want to drill
the holes now, only to realize later that I should have put them in
different
place to make something else fit better.
Thanks.
-Geoff
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/27/03 9:27:29 AM Pacific Standard Time, toys@ufl.edu
writes:
<< After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I just repaired a small leak
in
one of the tanks with some proseal that has been on my shelf for the year
since
I built them. It does not appear to be "firming up" after 3 days. The can
says
the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it will firm up in time, or
should I just buy new and scrape out the old? >>
Give it a week, if no sign of hardening, then star thinking about digging it
out.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Hey!!!
Let's have facts, not nasty gossip! I can imagine all the checkered suit
salesmen attacking the new XP360 with rumors and bogus stories.
I had an experience once. IBM salesman said to my prospect that he thought
the computer I was trying to sell was from a company that was in
bankruptcy. Fortunately the prospect called his lawyer and found Altos
Computer Systems to have 60 million bucks in the bank. IBM guy was
spreading what, in the computer industry, is called FUD. Fear, Uncertainty
and Doubt. Not quite lying, but dirty.
Now, let me spread the rumor that Lycoming has had a few problems over the
years.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
At 06:03 PM 3/27/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
>David,
>
>Reliability? That's never come up on the list before. Since there are not
>very many XP's flying, I have a hard time believing any second hand reports
>of reliability concerns. Do you personally know anyone who has had a
>problem and what the problem was? Whether you have or have not, you really
>need to follow up on your note with some specifics, or at least say "It was
>second (or third, or fourth) hand info"...
>
>I'd hate for an unsubstantiated seed to get planted on the
>RV list about reliability problems with this engine. That's the kind of
>thing people will remember for a dozen years, whether there is any proof or
>not.
>
>KB- Flying a "Boatright" 0-320, so I don't have a dog in this fight...
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "david just david" <davlaw1@juno.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Superior XP360
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
> >
> >
> > hello,
> > well from what ive been told, they have had some problems with
> > reliability ??
> > though ive only talked with a few ppl, the response was the
> > same..........so for me, i would rather pay a little more for the real
> > thing (ie lycoming).... just my opinion!!
> >
> > dave
> > a&p
> > soon to start 8a
> >
> >
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Carb mixture hookup question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
I guess I'm brain dead from struggling with the ##@@!!@!! baffles, but I
can't figure out how to make the connection from a 10/32 mixture cable to the
1/4 in. hole in the mixture lever on my carb. All of the rod end bearings I
can find in the catalogs that are threaded for the 10/32 cable have a 3/16
in., or smaller, hole in the bearing. I guess I can make a bushing, but I'm
sure I must be missing something. How are you guys doing this?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Carb mixture hookup question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
I couldnt find a bushing to fit, so I bought some of the hobby brass tubing.
One size fit the lever arm hole and the next smaller size tube went inside
that piece and the 3/16 bolt went throgh both pieces.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok rv6
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Carb mixture hookup question.
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> I guess I'm brain dead from struggling with the ##@@!!@!! baffles, but I
> can't figure out how to make the connection from a 10/32 mixture cable to
the
> 1/4 in. hole in the mixture lever on my carb. All of the rod end bearings
I
> can find in the catalogs that are threaded for the 10/32 cable have a 3/16
> in., or smaller, hole in the bearing. I guess I can make a bushing, but
I'm
> sure I must be missing something. How are you guys doing this?
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, firewall forward
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Vision MicroSystems Fuel Flow Sender |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
Just to followup with the resolution to my recent trouble with an
intermittent VM1000 fuel flow sender as installed on my O-360-A1A
(carbureted) FWF. For background I had discussed the possibility of a bad
sender with the factory people at OSH for the past 2 yrs or so but was
assured that "those senders rarely go bad/intermittent. It must be your
installation/wiring." Since then I have received many e-mails from others
with intermittent senders.
I sent the sender and DPU in for checkout (and for the 5 yr internal lithium
battery replacement) in early March. I assure you it was great fun laying on
my back under the instrument panel for the hour or so that it took to get the
DPU cabling disconnected, and yes, it was only an hour because I used the
intermediate headers installed on the wiring when first installed. Otherwise
I would be under there still. I coordinated with VMI to get the RMA number
so the testing would go quickly and smoothly. VMI called three days later to
say that the sender was DOA but that they were having a special price
reduction on replacement senders ($190). I said okay and they waived the
normal 1 hr shop charge ($47) for troubleshooting/testing.
I got it back a few days later and reinstalled the new sender and DPU (more
fun under the panel). After resetting the fuel tank volume in the RAM, all
works perfect now.
The old sender wheel still turns (I can hear it when I blow in it) but the
output of the counter is intermittent. Sometime I might send it off to
Floscan for a post mortem. We'll see if the new sender lasts more than three
years. Just glad it's an Experimental and I didn't have to pay a high
powered Ao).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Carb mixture hookup question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/27/2003 8:59:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6@aol.com
writes:
> I guess I'm brain dead from struggling with the ##@@!!@!! baffles, but I
> can't figure out how to make the connection from a 10/32 mixture cable to
> the
> 1/4 in. hole in the mixture lever on my carb. All of the rod end bearings
> I
> can find in the catalogs that are threaded for the 10/32 cable have a 3/16
> in., or smaller, hole in the bearing. I guess I can make a bushing, but
> I'm
> sure I must be missing something. How are you guys doing this?
Harry-
Come by Saturday and I'll fix you up with the same setup Tim Lewis and I
have.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
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