Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:53 AM - Re: Superior XP360 (JRWillJR@aol.com)
2. 05:59 AM - Radio and GPS For Sale (Paul Brown)
3. 06:35 AM - Re: CARB HEAT HOOKUP was: Carb mixture hookup (kempthornes)
4. 07:17 AM - Aeroshell 15w50 (Bill VonDane)
5. 07:24 AM - Re: proseal question (glenn williams)
6. 07:26 AM - RV and Rocket Fly-In April 26 and 27 (Frazier, Vincent A)
7. 07:36 AM - Re: proseal question (glenn williams)
8. 07:42 AM - Re: proseal question (glenn williams)
9. 07:46 AM - Re: RV8 rear seat hinge holes (DAVID REEL)
10. 08:08 AM - Primer and Paint (Dana Overall)
11. 08:27 AM - Re: proseal question (Scott Bilinski)
12. 08:58 AM - Re: Primer and Paint (Jerry Springer)
13. 09:11 AM - Re: Aeroshell 15w50 (Cy Galley)
14. 09:36 AM - Re: proseal question (glenn williams)
15. 09:44 AM - Re: Radio and GPS For Sale (Jody Edwards)
16. 10:21 AM - Re: Primer and Paint (Dana Overall)
17. 10:21 AM - Re: proseal question (Scott Bilinski)
18. 10:36 AM - Got to be another way... (Bill VonDane)
19. 10:40 AM - Re: Primer and Paint (kempthornes)
20. 11:29 AM - Re: Primer and Paint (Dana Overall)
21. 12:36 PM - Joysticks (Mark Phillips)
22. 12:45 PM - Electronic Ignition vs. Mags (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
23. 01:57 PM - Re: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags (Tedd McHenry)
24. 02:03 PM - Re: Primer and Paint (RV_8 Pilot)
25. 02:07 PM - Re: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags (Randy Lervold)
26. 02:09 PM - Re: proseal question (glenn williams)
27. 02:12 PM - Re: Got to be another way... (Joe Hine)
28. 02:51 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (Michael Stephan)
29. 03:00 PM - Re: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags (Kyle Boatright)
30. 03:12 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (david just david)
31. 03:30 PM - Re: Got to be another way... (RICKRV6@aol.com)
32. 03:37 PM - Sun & Fun...need campsite (Dana Overall)
33. 03:40 PM - Re: proseal question (Scott Bilinski)
34. 03:57 PM - Re: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags (Keith Vasey)
35. 03:59 PM - SnF Camping (Kyle Boatright)
36. 04:08 PM - Re:Sun & Fun...need campsite (Bert Forero)
37. 04:15 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (kempthornes)
38. 04:17 PM - Re: SnF Camping (Chris Good)
39. 04:19 PM - flew in rv8 (Bert Forero)
40. 04:26 PM - Re: SnF Camping (Rhett Westerman)
41. 04:36 PM - Removing Tires (John)
42. 04:37 PM - Proseal (Wheeler North)
43. 04:44 PM - Re: Removing Tires (Kyle Boatright)
44. 04:59 PM - Flaps Switch (Wheeler North)
45. 05:19 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (Terry Watson)
46. 05:28 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (Jim Jewell)
47. 05:34 PM - Re: Superior XP360 (JRWillJR@aol.com)
48. 05:38 PM - Re: CARB HEAT HOOKUP was: Carb mixture hookup (H.Ivan Haecker)
49. 06:02 PM - Re: flew in rv8 (Tom Gummo)
50. 07:42 PM - Re: flew in rv8 (Jim Jewell)
51. 08:16 PM - Re: SnF Camping (RW)
52. 08:24 PM - Re: Primer and Paint (Stein Bruch)
53. 09:04 PM - Re: Got to be another way... (Brian Denk)
54. 09:04 PM - Dynon Installation manual (Wheeler North)
55. 09:04 PM - Re: SnF Camping (Finn Lassen)
56. 09:42 PM - Re: Got to be another way... (Vanremog@aol.com)
57. 10:46 PM - Re: flew in rv8 (John Starn)
58. 10:50 PM - Re: Primer and Paint (Jerry Springer)
59. 11:07 PM - Pressure testing hoses (Russ Werner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
In a message dated 3/27/2003 3:58:26 PM Central Standard Time,
davlaw1@juno.com writes:
> hello,
> well from what ive been told, they have had some problems with
> reliability ??
> though ive only talked with a few ppl, the response was the
> same..........so for me, i would rather pay a little more for the real
> thing (ie lycoming).... just my opinion!!
Oh baloney macaroni! Whoever told you that has an agenda. Every single part
on an XP is FAA-PMA approved and can be substituted directly for an
equivalent Lycoming part without affecting the engines certification or TCD.
Further, Lycoming has had over the years spats of "unreliable" Lycomings such
as the recent crankshaft problems. This AD does NOT affect Superior cranks so
Lycoming rebuilds with Superior cranks are not affected. I am afraid to tell
you this but the Lycoming has been topped and the new engine at the top of
the pile is the Superior XP360. Improved induction, improved metallurgy,
improved oiling paths, improved thrust bearing, cylinders with more metal in
critical areas and extremely high quality and tolerances that because they
are PMA meet or exceed the same requirements for Lycomings. Buy what you
want, they are all excellent engines, I am going with the new real deal, the
XP360. Can we discuss insurance again? I think I was right there too on that
"agenda" not to bring back bad memories. For another pile of hundred and
thousand dollar bills that Lycoming IO360M1A looks great and the new
experimental IO390 from Lycoming looks hot too. Yep--IO390, see it at the
Lycoming web page. It is built on the angle valve case, quite a bit heavier
than a M1A or XP360 etc parallel valve type engine but -- look--390 cubes,
210 horses. Expect prices over 30,000 dollars.
God bless the USA.
Do Not Archive.
JR
Message 2
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| Subject: | Radio and GPS For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
I have updated my panel, a little, and have a VAL760 and a Northstar GPS60 for
sale. Both were working great when I took them out last week. The GPS60 has it's
antenna, antenna cable and tray. The VAL760 also has it's tray. I also have
the installation and instruction manuals as well.
I would like to get $900 for the GPS and $300 for the VAL. Anyone interested?
Paul
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: CARB HEAT HOOKUP was: Carb mixture hookup |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
It was suggested to me that I use a simple automotive choke cable for the
carb heat cable. It is wire and I terminated it by passing it thru and
then wrapping it around the arm. Good for over 100 hours but I would
really like something more satisfying.
How have you done your carb heat?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 4
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"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Where's the cheapest place to get Aeroshell 15w50?
-Bill
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
Sorry but, yes you are wrong. MEK thins the
consistancy enough to make old proseal or proseal that
is trying to set up workable/useable. The MEK will
evaporate readily within the proseal mix and in
essence is a poor mans "agent A" (agent A is an
accelarant that will make proseal cure extremely fast)
kinda like cyonycralite (super glue) curer, that you
might use on RC airplanes. I would use about 1/2 to 1
ounces of MEK in a cup size proseal batch and stir
with a tongue depresser until the mix is malleable
enough to be the consistancy of between syrup and cold
molases. Make sure the mix is dark in color not gray.
Apply quickly to the desired area to be sealed and
within 1 to 2 hours it should be set. If you are using
B-1/2 proseal.
Regards
Glenn Williams
do not archive
--- mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by:
> mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Glenn my experience was that MEK thinning lengthened
> the curing time. Am I
> wrong here?
>
>
> Mike Stewart
> Do not archive
> <snip>
> --> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams
> <willig10@yahoo.com>
>
> If you have
> any MEK mix it in as well and it will accelerate the
> curing time.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
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> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | RV and Rocket Fly-In April 26 and 27 |
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
MIDWEST RV and ROCKET FLY-IN
April 26th and 27th
Rebel's Bluff Airport (not on the sectional yet) N37 06.1 W93 52.2
2 miles NNE of Mt Vernon (MISSOURI)
Municipal Airport (2MO) About 30 miles west of Springfield, Missouri,
150 miles south of Kansas City, and 150 miles ENE of Tulsa, OK.
2,200' x 75' Very Nice Sod
CTAF 122.9
Av Gas 100LL available for approx $2. (dealer cost)
Special Events Include: Aerobatic demomstration flights, skydivers, and some fun
events with your airplane. Everyone's invited for Bar-B-Que Lunch (please
bring a covered dish of potato salad, or cold slaw, or buns, chips, cookies.
If you are staying overnight, dinner is a cook-it-yursef event. You can bring
your own meat or we will buy it here. Baked potato, and the works.
There is camping on the airstrip, or a motel ($50/couple).
If enough wives/girlfriends show an interest we will have a special trip
arranged to the "Precious Moments Chapel" and museum in Carthage, MO. RSVP Ladies!
Sunday morning will have a great breakfast to guaranteed to get you at least halfway
home.
Very small donations to defray the cost of food/drinks ONLY will be requested.
As you can understand, I really, REALLY
need your RSVP to plan this event. Please request a motel reservation before
April 19th, and please let me know you are coming (if at all possible) before
April 24th. Thanks!
Please contact Les Featherston, e-mail at lwfeatherston@aol.com or 417-466-4663,
or 11853 Lawrence 1105, Mt. Vernon, MISSOURI.
A special e-mail will be sent in response to your RSVP, including motel info, flight
and airport approach info, and answers to any questions you may have.
Send this invitation to anyone you wish to join us. The more the merrier.
And worse case senerio, the RAIN DATE is May 10th. (Bring Mom)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
Rob that is not correct. If proseal is mixed properly
it should be set up and ready for use within 6 to 12
hours. I have personally painted over proseal with a
paint brush within 1 hour of application. It is all in
how you combine the mix. Do not get technical with
weighing the white to the black. The simplest way to
ensure a good mix is to place a bunch of white proseal
and mix in the black part and stir, keep adding black
until the mix is extremely dark gray. If it is light
gray the mix will take longer or in some cases not
cure at all. Another important thing to do is when you
open the black jar stir the contents of the black jar
thoughrouly before mixing it with the white part. the
black jar contents will settle and seperate kinda of
like oil and water. If you mix the two parts together
without doing this in some cases you will have proper
color but the mix will not set up. We use proseal in
the business jet environment for aerodynamic surface
sealing,as well as fuel tank sealing and paint over
the proseal, uses include flap fairings etc.
regards
Glenn Williams
do not archive
--- Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller
> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
>
> If it isn't hard after three days, it probably won't
> achieve this. After
> three days, it should be about as hard as silicon
> sealant when it is
> completely cured. Of course, the Pro Seal needs a
> couple of weeks or so
> to reach its maximum cured state.
>
> Rob Miller
> -8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 53 hours
>
>
> --- "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A" <toys@ufl.edu> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A"
> <toys@ufl.edu>
> >
> > After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I
> just repaired a small
> > leak in
> > one of the tanks with some proseal that has been
> on my shelf for the
> > year since
> > I built them. It does not appear to be "firming
> up" after 3 days. The
> > can says
> > the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it
> will firm up in time,
> > or
> > should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Tom Crawford
> > Gainesville, FL
> > RV6A
> > Wings done- finally.
>
>
> http://platinum.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
the finger nail dig method is not a good method to
use. Proseal is made to be flexible. You could go to
proseal that is 5 years old or older and do the same
thing. If proseal is taking more than 12 hours to set
up only one of two things is happening.
1. incorrect mix
2. old out of dte proseal
solutions= heat and lots of it. Heat lamp directed
onto the mix for 2 to 4 hours will work wonders for
old stubborn proseal that is not curing. Try it on a
sample piece od aluminum.
Regards
Glenn Williams
do not archive
--- "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"
> <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Tom,
>
> Once it took almost 2 weeks for my proseal to
> cure (I use the fingernail
> dig method to confirm proper adhesion & texture).
> But that was due to a
> bunch of "muggy days" with high humidity... but you
> don't get that in
> Florida... right?
>
> Chuck
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: CRAWFORD,THOMAS A <toys@ufl.edu>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: proseal question
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A"
> <toys@ufl.edu>
> >
> > After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I
> just repaired a small leak
> in
> > one of the tanks with some proseal that has been
> on my shelf for the year
> since
> > I built them. It does not appear to be "firming
> up" after 3 days. The can
> says
> > the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it
> will firm up in time,
> or
> > should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Tom Crawford
> > Gainesville, FL
> > RV6A
> > Wings done- finally.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 rear seat hinge holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I drilled my holes per the plans location and have had no interference problem
when the seat was mounted. I drilled the predrilled hole in the hinge also so
that when the floor is fitted I could drill a hole to use the LP4-3 pulled rivet
in that loction. The profile of the LP4-3 head is very shallow and the offset
of the hinge loops creates sufficient clearance for the rivet heads.
Dave Reel RV8A
Message 10
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| Subject: | Primer and Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I just talked with the painter who will get my 7. I am think about jumping
the gun and have my emp. and wings painted right now.
Here's what he wants to do. Use Dupont Veri Prime 615 or 616S and black
Emron. Any pros and cons about this combination?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
There have been many suggestions here but may I add one that I feel is
MANDATORY, call the factory and get the facts. Take all the suggestions
given here and bounce them off the factory rep.
At 07:41 AM 3/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
>
>the finger nail dig method is not a good method to
>use. Proseal is made to be flexible. You could go to
>proseal that is 5 years old or older and do the same
>thing. If proseal is taking more than 12 hours to set
>up only one of two things is happening.
>1. incorrect mix
>2. old out of dte proseal
>solutions= heat and lots of it. Heat lamp directed
>onto the mix for 2 to 4 hours will work wonders for
>old stubborn proseal that is not curing. Try it on a
>sample piece od aluminum.
>
>Regards
> Glenn Williams
>do not archive
>
>--- "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com> wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"
>> <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>>
>> Tom,
>>
>> Once it took almost 2 weeks for my proseal to
>> cure (I use the fingernail
>> dig method to confirm proper adhesion & texture).
>> But that was due to a
>> bunch of "muggy days" with high humidity... but you
>> don't get that in
>> Florida... right?
>>
>> Chuck
>> do not archive
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: CRAWFORD,THOMAS A <toys@ufl.edu>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: proseal question
>>
>>
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS A"
>> <toys@ufl.edu>
>> >
>> > After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I
>> just repaired a small leak
>> in
>> > one of the tanks with some proseal that has been
>> on my shelf for the year
>> since
>> > I built them. It does not appear to be "firming
>> up" after 3 days. The can
>> says
>> > the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if it
>> will firm up in time,
>> or
>> > should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Tom Crawford
>> > Gainesville, FL
>> > RV6A
>> > Wings done- finally.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> Contributions
>> any other
>> Forums.
>>
>> latest messages.
>> List members.
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>=====
>Glenn Williams
>8A
>A&P
>N81GW
>
>http://platinum.yahoo.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Primer and Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Dana Overall wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> I just talked with the painter who will get my 7. I am think about jumping
> the gun and have my emp. and wings painted right now.
>
> Here's what he wants to do. Use Dupont Veri Prime 615 or 616S and black
> Emron. Any pros and cons about this combination?
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
Dana have you given any thought to the tremendous amount of heat that
black well absorb on a warm day? I know that even here in the NOT so
sunny northwest that I can touch the parts of my RV that are painted
white and they well feel cool. On the other hand the dark color well
actually feel hot to touch. This may not be a bad thing, I just do not
like the interior of my airplane to absorb all this heat. Black well
also enhance any blemishes and defects. Of course I know you don't have
any of those. :-)
do not archive
Jerry
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroshell 15w50 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I buy mine from the local Shell Oil distributor. They sell any product I
want a case at a time.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
We support Aeroncas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aeroshell 15w50
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
> Where's the cheapest place to get Aeroshell 15w50?
>
> -Bill
> RV-8A
> www.vondane.com
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
If you want to call the rep go ahead. I am speaking
from 12+ years experience in proseal application. If
personal experience is not what your looking for but
technical data is what your after I would call the rep
too. However I think that it is not MANDATORY. It is
your nickel.
best regards
Glenn Williams
do not archive
--- Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> There have been many suggestions here but may I add
> one that I feel is
> MANDATORY, call the factory and get the facts. Take
> all the suggestions
> given here and bounce them off the factory rep.
>
>
> At 07:41 AM 3/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams
> <willig10@yahoo.com>
> >
> >the finger nail dig method is not a good method to
> >use. Proseal is made to be flexible. You could go
> to
> >proseal that is 5 years old or older and do the
> same
> >thing. If proseal is taking more than 12 hours to
> set
> >up only one of two things is happening.
> >1. incorrect mix
> >2. old out of dte proseal
> >solutions= heat and lots of it. Heat lamp directed
> >onto the mix for 2 to 4 hours will work wonders for
> >old stubborn proseal that is not curing. Try it on
> a
> >sample piece od aluminum.
> >
> >Regards
> > Glenn Williams
> >do not archive
> >
> >--- "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com> wrote:
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"
> >> <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >>
> >> Tom,
> >>
> >> Once it took almost 2 weeks for my proseal to
> >> cure (I use the fingernail
> >> dig method to confirm proper adhesion & texture).
>
> >> But that was due to a
> >> bunch of "muggy days" with high humidity... but
> you
> >> don't get that in
> >> Florida... right?
> >>
> >> Chuck
> >> do not archive
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: CRAWFORD,THOMAS A <toys@ufl.edu>
> >> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >> Subject: RV-List: proseal question
> >>
> >>
> >> > --> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS
> A"
> >> <toys@ufl.edu>
> >> >
> >> > After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I
> >> just repaired a small leak
> >> in
> >> > one of the tanks with some proseal that has
> been
> >> on my shelf for the year
> >> since
> >> > I built them. It does not appear to be "firming
> >> up" after 3 days. The can
> >> says
> >> > the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if
> it
> >> will firm up in time,
> >> or
> >> > should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks,
> >> >
> >> > Tom Crawford
> >> > Gainesville, FL
> >> > RV6A
> >> > Wings done- finally.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Contributions
> >> any other
> >> Forums.
> >>
> >> latest messages.
> >> List members.
> >>
> >> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> >> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> >> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> >> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> >> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> >> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >=====
> >Glenn Williams
> >8A
> >A&P
> >N81GW
> >
> >http://platinum.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Radio and GPS For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jody Edwards <jodyedwards@juno.com>
Hello Paul, I'll take the VAL com for $300 if its still available. Email
me at jodyedwards@juno.com with your payment preference and shipping
info. Thanks, JodyEdwards
On Fri, 28 Mar 2003 08:55:56 -0500 "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
>
> I have updated my panel, a little, and have a VAL760 and a Northstar
> GPS60 for sale. Both were working great when I took them out last
> week. The GPS60 has it's antenna, antenna cable and tray. The VAL760
> also has it's tray. I also have the installation and instruction
> manuals as well.
>
> I would like to get $900 for the GPS and $300 for the VAL. Anyone
> interested?
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer and Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Jerry, the data sheets I have found show black will be 19 degrees warmer
than red in direct sunlight on an ambiant temp. 110 degree day. I figure
there's lots of red RVs out there.
I've checked the archives and can only find where people say they've used
Vari Prime but no reference to how easy it is to spray, cost and so on. Big
question is "How many gallons to paint an RV".
Blemishes..........that's what SuperFil is for!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> >
>
>Dana have you given any thought to the tremendous amount of heat that
>black well absorb on a warm day? I know that even here in the NOT so
>sunny northwest that I can touch the parts of my RV that are painted
>white and they well feel cool. On the other hand the dark color well
>actually feel hot to touch. This may not be a bad thing, I just do not
>like the interior of my airplane to absorb all this heat. Black well
>also enhance any blemishes and defects. Of course I know you don't have
>any of those. :-)
>
>do not archive
>Jerry
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I understand what your saying I just dont beleive everything I read and
verify everything for my plane. I have found many people giving out what
they think is good advice and later find out that their "idea" is not so
good. This is no reflection on you or you experience, just a general
statement because I dont know the source. If this was for my car no
problem, but its not. I take everything for my airplane VERY serious,
probably too serious.
At 09:33 AM 3/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
>
>If you want to call the rep go ahead. I am speaking
>from 12+ years experience in proseal application. If
>personal experience is not what your looking for but
>technical data is what your after I would call the rep
>too. However I think that it is not MANDATORY. It is
>your nickel.
>best regards
> Glenn Williams
>do not archive
>--- Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>> There have been many suggestions here but may I add
>> one that I feel is
>> MANDATORY, call the factory and get the facts. Take
>> all the suggestions
>> given here and bounce them off the factory rep.
>>
>>
>> At 07:41 AM 3/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
>> >--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams
>> <willig10@yahoo.com>
>> >
>> >the finger nail dig method is not a good method to
>> >use. Proseal is made to be flexible. You could go
>> to
>> >proseal that is 5 years old or older and do the
>> same
>> >thing. If proseal is taking more than 12 hours to
>> set
>> >up only one of two things is happening.
>> >1. incorrect mix
>> >2. old out of dte proseal
>> >solutions= heat and lots of it. Heat lamp directed
>> >onto the mix for 2 to 4 hours will work wonders for
>> >old stubborn proseal that is not curing. Try it on
>> a
>> >sample piece od aluminum.
>> >
>> >Regards
>> > Glenn Williams
>> >do not archive
>> >
>> >--- "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com> wrote:
>> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"
>> >> <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>> >>
>> >> Tom,
>> >>
>> >> Once it took almost 2 weeks for my proseal to
>> >> cure (I use the fingernail
>> >> dig method to confirm proper adhesion & texture).
>>
>> >> But that was due to a
>> >> bunch of "muggy days" with high humidity... but
>> you
>> >> don't get that in
>> >> Florida... right?
>> >>
>> >> Chuck
>> >> do not archive
>> >>
>> >> ----- Original Message -----
>> >> From: CRAWFORD,THOMAS A <toys@ufl.edu>
>> >> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> >> Subject: RV-List: proseal question
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> > --> RV-List message posted by: "CRAWFORD,THOMAS
>> A"
>> >> <toys@ufl.edu>
>> >> >
>> >> > After finally pressure testing my fuel tanks,I
>> >> just repaired a small leak
>> >> in
>> >> > one of the tanks with some proseal that has
>> been
>> >> on my shelf for the year
>> >> since
>> >> > I built them. It does not appear to be "firming
>> >> up" after 3 days. The can
>> >> says
>> >> > the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know if
>> it
>> >> will firm up in time,
>> >> or
>> >> > should I just buy new and scrape out the old?
>> >> >
>> >> > Thanks,
>> >> >
>> >> > Tom Crawford
>> >> > Gainesville, FL
>> >> > RV6A
>> >> > Wings done- finally.
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Contributions
>> >> any other
>> >> Forums.
>> >>
>> >> latest messages.
>> >> List members.
>> >>
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>> >> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >=====
>> >Glenn Williams
>> >8A
>> >A&P
>> >N81GW
>> >
>> >http://platinum.yahoo.com
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 305
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>>
>> Contributions
>> any other
>> Forums.
>>
>> latest messages.
>> List members.
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>=====
>Glenn Williams
>8A
>A&P
>N81GW
>
>http://platinum.yahoo.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 18
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|
"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Got to be another way... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Ok, I know there has to be a place to get these without spending $50!
http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/Sacramento_Sky_Ranch_Oil_drain_valves_53
.html
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - 90+ hrs
www.vondane.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Primer and Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 11:04 AM 3/28/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>Here's what <the painter> wants to do. Use Dupont Veri Prime 615 or 616S
>and black
>Emron. Any pros and cons about this combination?
Black??? With all the cool colors?? If Emron is similar to Imron, it is
good stuff.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Primer and Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>Black??? With all the cool colors?? If Emron is similar to Imron, it is
>good stuff.
E or I, yep same thing........a slip of the keystroke. So, my black 7 will
not be "cool" and is cold or will not be "cool" as in neat??
Seriously, how many gallons of Imron to paint a 7? I take it Vari Prime is
a two part primer??
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
There was a recent discussion on using computer gaming joysticks on the
A-list. Does anyone present have any actual experience with these
devices such as how they are wired internally? I would imagine they are
generally robust considering the intended users, but I'm curious as to
their interior wiring. One particularly comfortable one I have looked
at (Saitek Cyborg 3D Force) has a fairly small 8-way hat on top. Are
these actual contacts or are we possibly talking about some kind of
multiplexed pressure or optical sensors that would be impossible to
wire?
This stick is attractive due to the ambidextrous design, fits well left
or right, and has an actual "trigger"- your fingers will fit under the
switch so you can grab the stick with all four fingers without worrying
about keying the mike (or other function for this switch) while hangin'
on to it.
Any of you "PC fighter jocks" ever had one apart?
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips - do not archive -
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition vs. Mags |
03/28/2003 03:42:26 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
List,
I have been trying to resolve an issue regarding the operation of the two
types of ignitions. My question is rather simple, but I will use some make
believe timing settings to ask it:
Let's say that a magneto is set to fire at 40 degrees BTDC and your engine
is also equipped with an electronic ignition. What happens when you are
running at lower rpm's where the optimum spark advance is , lets say 10
degrees BTDC? Does this mean that the engine is not benefitting from the
electronic ignition at these speeds because the mag has already fired off
the fuel charge before the electronic ignition sent its own signal to fire?
It seems that depending on where the mag is set, any benefit from the
electronic ignition is negated as long as the mag is firing first at a
less-than-optimal advance setting. Please educate me.
Don Alexander
RV-8 wings with leaky tank : -(
Do not archive
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Don:
I had a chat with Bart Lalonde about this last year. I'll relate what he
explained, as well as I remember it.
According to Bart, a big advantage of electronic ignition is that the spark
lasts much longer than the spark from a magneto. If you have EI on one set of
plugs and a mag on the other, during full power and cruise power operation the
EI plug will fire before the mag plug and will still be firing after the mag
plug has stopped firing. Consequently, Bart says, on engines equipped with
both ignition types you can scarcely tell the difference between the mag being
on or off.
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Primer and Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Dana -
A -7 would probably require about as much as my -8. If I recall correctly,
it took ~3 gals total. But you'll prob have to purchase more depending on
how many colors you choose.
Re. black or similar dark colors... they look really sharp, but they do get
awfully hot on the ground. Once you're flying though, the temp is probably
not as big of an issue with the air flow over the surfaces. But I really
don't know... mine's white with Aggie maroon trim.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> Let's say that a magneto is set to fire at 40 degrees BTDC and your engine
> is also equipped with an electronic ignition. What happens when you are
> running at lower rpm's where the optimum spark advance is , lets say 10
> degrees BTDC? Does this mean that the engine is not benefitting from the
> electronic ignition at these speeds because the mag has already fired off
> the fuel charge before the electronic ignition sent its own signal to
fire?
Yes, and this is one of the advantages of the LASAR, it operates completely
electronically using whatever advanced or retarded setting is in its map, or
defaults to total operation on both magnetos at the standard fixed setting.
BTW, most small aircraft engines are timed at around 25 degrees BTDC, and of
course they then operate at that setting under all conditions.
> It seems that depending on where the mag is set, any benefit from the
> electronic ignition is negated as long as the mag is firing first at a
> less-than-optimal advance setting. Please educate me.
The compromise you're describing is not as bad as it sounds because the only
time the retarded settings are used are on the ground.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 300.1 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
point taken. However I am a professional A&P. I take
my job very seriously as the work I do for the pay I
recieve is very low. I place my livelyhood on the line
every time I release an aircraft for flight. I
understand you don't trust "the list". In Most cases I
see information that is put out by persons that who
have never built an aircraft or for that matter never
have worked on an aircraft, and I have serious doubts
about some of the info they put out, however, that
said this list has a wealth of ideas and I believe
promote what the heart and soul of aviation should be
about. If you are ever in the Fort Worth area and
would like to see a demo let me know. I will back up
what I say about proseal anytime.
Regards
Glenn Williams
do not archive
--- Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> I understand what your saying I just dont beleive
> everything I read and
> verify everything for my plane. I have found many
> people giving out what
> they think is good advice and later find out that
> their "idea" is not so
> good. This is no reflection on you or you
> experience, just a general
> statement because I dont know the source. If this
> was for my car no
> problem, but its not. I take everything for my
> airplane VERY serious,
> probably too serious.
>
>
> At 09:33 AM 3/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams
> <willig10@yahoo.com>
> >
> >If you want to call the rep go ahead. I am speaking
> >from 12+ years experience in proseal application.
> If
> >personal experience is not what your looking for
> but
> >technical data is what your after I would call the
> rep
> >too. However I think that it is not MANDATORY. It
> is
> >your nickel.
> >best regards
> > Glenn Williams
> >do not archive
> >--- Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >wrote:
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> >> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >>
> >> There have been many suggestions here but may I
> add
> >> one that I feel is
> >> MANDATORY, call the factory and get the facts.
> Take
> >> all the suggestions
> >> given here and bounce them off the factory rep.
> >>
> >>
> >> At 07:41 AM 3/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
> >> >--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams
> >> <willig10@yahoo.com>
> >> >
> >> >the finger nail dig method is not a good method
> to
> >> >use. Proseal is made to be flexible. You could
> go
> >> to
> >> >proseal that is 5 years old or older and do the
> >> same
> >> >thing. If proseal is taking more than 12 hours
> to
> >> set
> >> >up only one of two things is happening.
> >> >1. incorrect mix
> >> >2. old out of dte proseal
> >> >solutions= heat and lots of it. Heat lamp
> directed
> >> >onto the mix for 2 to 4 hours will work wonders
> for
> >> >old stubborn proseal that is not curing. Try it
> on
> >> a
> >> >sample piece od aluminum.
> >> >
> >> >Regards
> >> > Glenn Williams
> >> >do not archive
> >> >
> >> >--- "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com> wrote:
> >> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"
> >> >> <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >> >>
> >> >> Tom,
> >> >>
> >> >> Once it took almost 2 weeks for my proseal
> to
> >> >> cure (I use the fingernail
> >> >> dig method to confirm proper adhesion &
> texture).
> >>
> >> >> But that was due to a
> >> >> bunch of "muggy days" with high humidity...
> but
> >> you
> >> >> don't get that in
> >> >> Florida... right?
> >> >>
> >> >> Chuck
> >> >> do not archive
> >> >>
> >> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> >> From: CRAWFORD,THOMAS A <toys@ufl.edu>
> >> >> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >> >> Subject: RV-List: proseal question
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> > --> RV-List message posted by:
> "CRAWFORD,THOMAS
> >> A"
> >> >> <toys@ufl.edu>
> >> >> >
> >> >> > After finally pressure testing my fuel
> tanks,I
> >> >> just repaired a small leak
> >> >> in
> >> >> > one of the tanks with some proseal that has
> >> been
> >> >> on my shelf for the year
> >> >> since
> >> >> > I built them. It does not appear to be
> "firming
> >> >> up" after 3 days. The can
> >> >> says
> >> >> > the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know
> if
> >> it
> >> >> will firm up in time,
> >> >> or
> >> >> > should I just buy new and scrape out the
> old?
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Thanks,
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Tom Crawford
> >> >> > Gainesville, FL
> >> >> > RV6A
> >> >> > Wings done- finally.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Contributions
> >> >> any other
> >> >> Forums.
> >> >>
> >> >> latest messages.
> >> >> List members.
> >> >>
> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> >> >>
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >=====
> >> >Glenn Williams
> >> >8A
> >> >A&P
> >> >N81GW
> >> >
> >> >http://platinum.yahoo.com
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Scott Bilinski
> >> Eng dept 305
> >> Phone (858) 657-2536
> >> Pager (858) 502-5190
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Contributions
> >> any other
> >> Forums.
> >>
> >> latest messages.
> >> List members.
> >>
> >> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> >> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> >> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> >> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> >> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> >> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
=== message truncated ===
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Got to be another way... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Bill
I saw two of these go on ebay for 10 bucks a few weeks ago.
Joe Hine
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: Got to be another way...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Ok, I know there has to be a place to get these without spending $50!
http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/Sacramento_Sky_Ranch_Oil_drain_valves_53
.html
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - 90+ hrs
www.vondane.com
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael Stephan <mstephan@shr.net>
We have a RV-6A in our local chapter who has been flying an XP-360 for about
six months. He says it is very smooth, and so has everyone who has flown
with him. If wanted I'll try to coax him to respond to the list.
--
Michael Stephan
EAA Chapter 168
RV-8 builder
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
As has been stated in this thread, mags are generally timed to fire at 25
degrees before top dead center (BTDC) for all conditions except startup. It
isn't quite that simple with Electronic Ignitions (EI's), but the
Electroair/Rose EI essentially uses 25 degrees as a baseline setting, and
increases the advance under certain circumstances - i.e. as manifold
pressure reduces, but engine RPM is higher than idle. The low MP and
medium-high RPM means that the cylinder pressure isn't near the detonation
limit, so you can advance the ignition and get "free" power and economy
without the risk of detonation.
So, the EI is *always* (note - absolutes usually aren't) firing at the same
time or earlier than the mag (depending on power setting) and therefore
produces the same or more power as the mag. UNTIL you realize that the EI
produces a much stronger, longer spark, which means that the EI is always
going to give you a little more power than a mag, even at if the spark plugs
fire at the same time.
You could re-time your mag to give you a more advanced spark, but you would
be running a higher risk of detonation, especially at high manifold
pressure/low RPM operations (often described as over-square), since the mag
would always be at the advanced setting.
Fire away if you've got more questions. The more you understand about
various systems, the better decisions you'll be able to make about how to
equip your airplane for your mission.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com>
Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> List,
> I have been trying to resolve an issue regarding the operation of the two
> types of ignitions. My question is rather simple, but I will use some
make
> believe timing settings to ask it:
>
> Let's say that a magneto is set to fire at 40 degrees BTDC and your engine
> is also equipped with an electronic ignition. What happens when you are
> running at lower rpm's where the optimum spark advance is , lets say 10
> degrees BTDC? Does this mean that the engine is not benefitting from the
> electronic ignition at these speeds because the mag has already fired off
> the fuel charge before the electronic ignition sent its own signal to
fire?
> It seems that depending on where the mag is set, any benefit from the
> electronic ignition is negated as long as the mag is firing first at a
> less-than-optimal advance setting. Please educate me.
>
> Don Alexander
> RV-8 wings with leaky tank : -(
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
re: superior xp engines
the information i was given was second hand by other machanics and
builders in the field.
i dont remember the specifics of, but cams, shafts, and cylinders seem to
come to mind right off. i believe the problems were delt with by superior
with out debate, or hassle. but for me i would rather not have to go
though tear down if i can avoid it. given what i was told, i perosonally
would stick to the product that i am familure with, and is proven....
superior engines may be a very good product, but the fact is, its a clone
of an lycoming....
again, for me, saving a few bucks is not worth the possible problems....
assuming what i was told is in fact accurate.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Got to be another way... |
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/28/03 1:39:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, bill@vondane.com
writes:
> Ok, I know there has to be a place to get these without spending $50!
>
>
> http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/Sacramento_Sky_Ranch_Oil_drain_valves_53
> .html
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - 90+ hrs
> www.vondane.com
>
>
Bill,
Try a Curtis Drain Valve. I used one on my -6 and never had a problem.
They're available through a number of sources.
<A HREF="http://www.curtissuperiorvalve.com/history.html">http://www.curtissuperiorvalve.com/history.html
Rick McBride
80027
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Sun & Fun...need campsite |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Anybody on the list going to camp with their RV that would be willing to
"rent, share, barter or beg" some camp space (I will only have one tent).
I'll be driving in on Friday and leaving out on Monday. I'll bring coffee,
beer, brats and a grill.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Ahhhh, see now that we are talking and I am learning more about you, and
you being a "professional A&P" what you stated earlier now carries
considerably more weight than before. Also I do agree that this list is a
great place to get info and ideas, but, buyer beware so to speak, check
everything out when possible.
Have a great weekend.
At 02:08 PM 3/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
>
>point taken. However I am a professional A&P. I take
>my job very seriously as the work I do for the pay I
>recieve is very low. I place my livelyhood on the line
>every time I release an aircraft for flight. I
>understand you don't trust "the list". In Most cases I
>see information that is put out by persons that who
>have never built an aircraft or for that matter never
>have worked on an aircraft, and I have serious doubts
>about some of the info they put out, however, that
>said this list has a wealth of ideas and I believe
>promote what the heart and soul of aviation should be
>about. If you are ever in the Fort Worth area and
>would like to see a demo let me know. I will back up
>what I say about proseal anytime.
>Regards
> Glenn Williams
>do not archive
>
>--- Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>> I understand what your saying I just dont beleive
>> everything I read and
>> verify everything for my plane. I have found many
>> people giving out what
>> they think is good advice and later find out that
>> their "idea" is not so
>> good. This is no reflection on you or you
>> experience, just a general
>> statement because I dont know the source. If this
>> was for my car no
>> problem, but its not. I take everything for my
>> airplane VERY serious,
>> probably too serious.
>>
>>
>> At 09:33 AM 3/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
>> >--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams
>> <willig10@yahoo.com>
>> >
>> >If you want to call the rep go ahead. I am speaking
>> >from 12+ years experience in proseal application.
>> If
>> >personal experience is not what your looking for
>> but
>> >technical data is what your after I would call the
>> rep
>> >too. However I think that it is not MANDATORY. It
>> is
>> >your nickel.
>> >best regards
>> > Glenn Williams
>> >do not archive
>> >--- Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>> >wrote:
>> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>> >> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>> >>
>> >> There have been many suggestions here but may I
>> add
>> >> one that I feel is
>> >> MANDATORY, call the factory and get the facts.
>> Take
>> >> all the suggestions
>> >> given here and bounce them off the factory rep.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> At 07:41 AM 3/28/03 -0800, you wrote:
>> >> >--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams
>> >> <willig10@yahoo.com>
>> >> >
>> >> >the finger nail dig method is not a good method
>> to
>> >> >use. Proseal is made to be flexible. You could
>> go
>> >> to
>> >> >proseal that is 5 years old or older and do the
>> >> same
>> >> >thing. If proseal is taking more than 12 hours
>> to
>> >> set
>> >> >up only one of two things is happening.
>> >> >1. incorrect mix
>> >> >2. old out of dte proseal
>> >> >solutions= heat and lots of it. Heat lamp
>> directed
>> >> >onto the mix for 2 to 4 hours will work wonders
>> for
>> >> >old stubborn proseal that is not curing. Try it
>> on
>> >> a
>> >> >sample piece od aluminum.
>> >> >
>> >> >Regards
>> >> > Glenn Williams
>> >> >do not archive
>> >> >
>> >> >--- "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com> wrote:
>> >> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"
>> >> >> <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Tom,
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Once it took almost 2 weeks for my proseal
>> to
>> >> >> cure (I use the fingernail
>> >> >> dig method to confirm proper adhesion &
>> texture).
>> >>
>> >> >> But that was due to a
>> >> >> bunch of "muggy days" with high humidity...
>> but
>> >> you
>> >> >> don't get that in
>> >> >> Florida... right?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Chuck
>> >> >> do not archive
>> >> >>
>> >> >> ----- Original Message -----
>> >> >> From: CRAWFORD,THOMAS A <toys@ufl.edu>
>> >> >> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> >> >> Subject: RV-List: proseal question
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >> > --> RV-List message posted by:
>> "CRAWFORD,THOMAS
>> >> A"
>> >> >> <toys@ufl.edu>
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > After finally pressure testing my fuel
>> tanks,I
>> >> >> just repaired a small leak
>> >> >> in
>> >> >> > one of the tanks with some proseal that has
>> >> been
>> >> >> on my shelf for the year
>> >> >> since
>> >> >> > I built them. It does not appear to be
>> "firming
>> >> >> up" after 3 days. The can
>> >> >> says
>> >> >> > the shelf life is 9 months. Does anyone know
>> if
>> >> it
>> >> >> will firm up in time,
>> >> >> or
>> >> >> > should I just buy new and scrape out the
>> old?
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > Thanks,
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > Tom Crawford
>> >> >> > Gainesville, FL
>> >> >> > RV6A
>> >> >> > Wings done- finally.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Contributions
>> >> >> any other
>> >> >> Forums.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> latest messages.
>> >> >> List members.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>> >> >>
>> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
>> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >=====
>> >> >Glenn Williams
>> >> >8A
>> >> >A&P
>> >> >N81GW
>> >> >
>> >> >http://platinum.yahoo.com
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Scott Bilinski
>> >> Eng dept 305
>> >> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> >> Pager (858) 502-5190
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Contributions
>> >> any other
>> >> Forums.
>> >>
>> >> latest messages.
>> >> List members.
>> >>
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>> >> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>> >> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>>
>=== message truncated ===
>
>
>=====
>Glenn Williams
>8A
>A&P
>N81GW
>
>http://platinum.yahoo.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 34
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| Subject: | Electronic Ignition vs. Mags |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Keith Vasey" <keith@galvinflying.com>
"Scarcely tell"... is that a good thing or a bad thing? Do you want to
operate with the mag timing "off"?
Keith Vasey
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tedd McHenry
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Don:
I had a chat with Bart Lalonde about this last year. I'll relate what he
explained, as well as I remember it.
According to Bart, a big advantage of electronic ignition is that the spark
lasts much longer than the spark from a magneto. If you have EI on one set
of
plugs and a mag on the other, during full power and cruise power operation
the
EI plug will fire before the mag plug and will still be firing after the mag
plug has stopped firing. Consequently, Bart says, on engines equipped with
both ignition types you can scarcely tell the difference between the mag
being
on or off.
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Once again, I'm forced to choose - Put the RV on the showline at SnF and tote all
of my stuff to a far-away campground .or. go for the convenience of Homebuilt
Camping, where I can camp beside the airplane and avoid carrying anything anywhere...
Problem is, I can't figure out where the "Homebuilt" camping area is located.
It would be just my luck if it was down by "Choppertown" or some other far away
outpost of the show. I've looked at the SnF website for a map showing the Homebuilt
Camping area, but no joy...
Anyone familiar with the area? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
KB
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Sun & Fun...need campsite |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Dana:
I will be camping myself; all you have to do is
go to the camping entrance, and you will be able to
get your own space.
Is better of course to go on Tuesday when is
opening day. After that, spaces become scare, but
you can find something. The people at the entrance
where you pay, will help you with this.
Remember that the minimum, for camping is 3 days,
I understand.
Good luck. I do not know where I would be, I will look
for the best spot I can find.
Bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 04:13 PM 3/28/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
> i perosonally
>would stick to the product that i am familure with, and is proven....
Hi David. Are you still driving that old tried and proven Model A Ford??
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Kyle,
I enjoyed camping with my 6A in the new Homebuilt Camping area last year. I hope
to do the same this year, if I can get away from work :-(
I believe the location is the same as last year. It's just East of the Vintage
area, to the South of the taxiway. It's about half way to Chopper Town. I don't
think it's any further away from the center of things than the nearest of
the planeless camping areas. It might fill up quickly.
Hope to see you there.
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A
--
On Fri, 28 Mar 2003 18:56:18
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
>Once again, I'm forced to choose - Put the RV on the showline at SnF and tote
all of my stuff to a far-away campground .or. go for the convenience of Homebuilt
Camping, where I can camp beside the airplane and avoid carrying anything
anywhere...
>
>Problem is, I can't figure out where the "Homebuilt" camping area is located.
It would be just my luck if it was down by "Choppertown" or some other far away
outpost of the show. I've looked at the SnF website for a map showing the
Homebuilt Camping area, but no joy...
>
>Anyone familiar with the area? Suggestions?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>KB
>
>
Message 39
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
Recently I had the chance to fly in a friend's beautiful
rv8..
I had never flown on tandem seating plane... it was
nice, flying is always a great experience for us..
But, I am glad I am building a side by side..
I found it, a little unconfortable, as your legs really
are supported on the sides..
and then all you see is the back of the head of the pilot;
For me, side by side is the way, you have some
one to talk to, and in case of an emergency, I think
is a better chance that the copilot side if is a pilot
could save the day..
Any how, to each his won, that plane really
moves, with a 18o H>P>.
We will see more rv's at Sun and Fun,
hope to see you there..
Bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 40
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rhett Westerman" <Rhettwesterman@cox.net>
I had he same question and had to call to get the answer. The HBC will be
where the float planes were last year. Across the taxiway from the VOR
between the Vintage and Twins. (1/2 way to chopper town)
best,
Rhett
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: SnF Camping
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Once again, I'm forced to choose - Put the RV on the showline at SnF and
tote all of my stuff to a far-away campground .or. go for the convenience of
Homebuilt Camping, where I can camp beside the airplane and avoid carrying
anything anywhere...
Problem is, I can't figure out where the "Homebuilt" camping area is
located. It would be just my luck if it was down by "Choppertown" or some
other far away outpost of the show. I've looked at the SnF website for a
map showing the Homebuilt Camping area, but no joy...
Anyone familiar with the area? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
KB
Message 41
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Next month I will do my annual condition inspection and plan to replace my
main tires. This is my third set. Removing the tires without a dedicated
'breaker' is something I have not mastered. I tug, pull, swear, and nothing
seems to make it an easy task.
What works for you?
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
I have a small refer in the hangar just for epoxies and proseal,
one can is over three years old, works great.
No one rule, get it black, if its grey it will take a long time to cure.
My fire wall sealing took two months because it was too light, but it
finally got hard.
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I deflate 'em, then place the tire/wheel on a piece of plywood on the floor.
Next, I use my massive body mass (160 lbs, dressed) and jump up and down on
the tire. Seems to break the bead loose fairly easily.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Removing Tires
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> Next month I will do my annual condition inspection and plan to replace my
> main tires. This is my third set. Removing the tires without a dedicated
> 'breaker' is something I have not mastered. I tug, pull, swear, and
nothing
> seems to make it an easy task.
>
> What works for you?
>
>
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
I rigged mine up with an up/down DPDT switch and another circuit with a
button hooked up to a parallel "up" relay with a limit switch for
auto-retraction. Works great, but the motor is now getting intermittant. If
I bang on the motor mount brace when it gets stuck it starts working again.
Guess I need to pull it out and clean it up. What a pain, I only got 300
trouble free flight hours out of it before it needs some lovin'. I'd say
there's an averge of 2.4 actions per flight hour so that works out to 720
actions or 3600 inches traveled per service activity.
I suppose I should be careful here, I don't want to start the "chinsey
parts" flame war again. ;{)
Saw a friend's Lancair Legacy flap motor being installed the other day.
Damm, that thing would raise the Titanic if it was long enoungh. Not quite
sure why they have such a big motor as their flaps are tiny compared to
ours.
Good flying weather in so cal these days, CAVU 60 miles this morning. Ain't
it grand...
do not archive
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Hal, we gotta have guys like david around. Someone has to buy all those
outdated Lycomings.
Terry
RV-8a
Superior XP IO-360-BIB from Aero sport Power
Airflow Performance fuel injection
Lightspeed ignition one side
Lycoming owner's manual??
First flight Tuesday .... In maybe 18 months or so
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: Re: RV-List: Superior XP360
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 04:13 PM 3/28/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: david just david <davlaw1@juno.com>
> i perosonally
>would stick to the product that i am familure with, and is proven....
Hi David. Are you still driving that old tried and proven Model A Ford??
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
By all means, please coax.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Stephan" <mstephan@shr.net>
"If wanted I'll try to coax him to respond to the list.
> Michael Stephan
> EAA Chapter 168
> RV-8 builder
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
In a message dated 3/28/2003 5:14:36 PM Central Standard Time,
davlaw1@juno.com writes:
>
> the information i was given was second hand by other machanics and
> builders in the field.
> i dont remember the specifics of, but cams, shafts, and cylinders seem to
> come to mind right off. i believe the problems were delt with by superior
This could go on forever, second hand, third hand, urban legend. Many of you
guys have Superior or ECi components in your engines or have flown behind
such without knowing it in rental machines etc. Many rebuild shops use a mix
of parts from various companies during rebuild unless specified by the
customer and in many cases the customer specifies Superior or ECi Titan
cylinder/piston assemblies because of their excellent reputation. Since all
the parts are PMA they have the same traceability and possibly in some cases
the same origins as factory Lycoming parts there really is no reason to pay
more for less. The XP360 is really not a clone anyway, not to parse words,
but instead an Evolution of a Lycoming with many improvements that shops in
the field have long been asking for and have been shown to be beneficical.
Both Superior and ECi have been supplying components for many years, I think
more than 30 years or so for both Lycoming and Continental parts.
I realize some guys are not exposed to this stuff everyday but there are an
awfull lots of Lycomings flying that have more Superior or ECi compnents in
them than Lycoming. The Superior cylinders are magnificent and the ECi stuff
maybe better and both have a good rep in the field. Yep, you have seen the
adds from Textron Lycoming exorting you to buy genuine Lyc replacement parts
and their insinuation the aftermarket suppliers are substandard and this is
driven by Textron's loss of market share in the lucrative rebuild support
market where ECi and Superior are increasingly the favored components. In
the competitive market today no company can supply substandard, trouble prone
parts and stay in buisness and the fact is some of the very best and long
time respected names in the rebuild market offer ECi and Superior parts for
their rebuilds/repairs and put their names and in the logbooks and their
reputations on the line and they are not doing that because of low
relaibility or inferior quality.
You cannot go wrong with a Lycoming, you can just do a little better with a
XP.
Have a nice evening, warping out of here.
Do Not Archive.
JR
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: CARB HEAT HOOKUP was: Carb mixture hookup |
--> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: CARB HEAT HOOKUP was: Carb mixture hookup
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> It was suggested to me that I use a simple automotive choke cable for the
> carb heat cable. It is wire and I terminated it by passing it thru and
> then wrapping it around the arm. Good for over 100 hours but I would
> really like something more satisfying.
>
> How have you done your carb heat?
>
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
> I used a control with a wire inner cable that I terminated in a 2 turn
loop with a diameter equal to that of the #8 screw that attaches it to the
arm with an all metal locking nut. Working fine after 900 hrs. and looks
nice too.
Ivan Haecker rv-4
Message 49
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Just one man's opinion - Delete now.
Tandom is the way to go.
As the pilot, you won't be flying in the back.
When you look right, all you will see is everything (side by side - you will
see that head of your pax).
In additional to the pax warning required by the FAA, you should have a sign
which says:
Everything in the back seat is BAGGAGE, please act like it. :-)
Tom Gummo
Would only have a Tandom plane.
HR-2 flying 110.7 hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: flew in rv8
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
> Recently I had the chance to fly in a friend's beautiful
> rv8..
>
> I had never flown on tandem seating plane... it was
> nice, flying is always a great experience for us..
>
> But, I am glad I am building a side by side..
>
> I found it, a little unconfortable, as your legs really
> are supported on the sides..
> and then all you see is the back of the head of the pilot;
>
> For me, side by side is the way, you have some
> one to talk to, and in case of an emergency, I think
> is a better chance that the copilot side if is a pilot
> could save the day..
>
>
> Any how, to each his won, that plane really
> moves, with a 18o H>P>.
>
> We will see more rv's at Sun and Fun,
> hope to see you there..
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 50
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: flew in rv8
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> Just one man's opinion - Delete now.
>
> Tandom is the way to go.
> As the pilot, you won't be flying in the back.
> When you look right, all you will see is everything (side by side - you
will
> see that head of your pax).
> In additional to the pax warning required by the FAA, you should have a
sign
> which says:
>
> Everything in the back seat is BAGGAGE, please act like it. :-)
WHOOHOO!... Duck everybody INCOMING!!! (8-}!
Jim in Kelowna
Message 51
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
Kyle,
Here is a link to SnF map.
http://www.sun-n-fun.org/content/interior.asp?section=flyin&body=convsitemap
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW flying
Old Crow
Newport, OR
Message 52
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| Subject: | Primer and Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Dana,
There is nothing wrong with Black, Jerry is both right and wrong (I know,
he's very rarely wrong...). It is warmer, but these things are warm under
that bubble anyway. I haven't been able to tell a huge difference between
the inside of mine and others that are painted "cool" colors. Take a look at
my bird, http://www.steinair.com.
Plenty of moving air seems to do the trick when flying. Total Paint used on
the plane was 1 Gallon of Black and 1 Gallon of Green (before thinning). I
still have some of both left over. I used PPG Concept, and if you check the
archives you'll find it's a most forgiving paint, plus it wet sands nicely.
Anyway, I won't beleager the point.
I used DP-40 Primer and used two gallons (not thinned) on the whole plane.
I only have one good, heavy color coat, and it seems to be fine.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
90+hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer and Paint
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Jerry, the data sheets I have found show black will be 19 degrees warmer
than red in direct sunlight on an ambiant temp. 110 degree day. I figure
there's lots of red RVs out there.
I've checked the archives and can only find where people say they've used
Vari Prime but no reference to how easy it is to spray, cost and so on. Big
question is "How many gallons to paint an RV".
Blemishes..........that's what SuperFil is for!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Got to be another way... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Got to be another way...
>Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 11:36:00 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
>Ok, I know there has to be a place to get these without spending $50!
>
>http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/Sacramento_Sky_Ranch_Oil_drain_valves_53
>.html
>
>-Bill VonDane
Bill,
Yeah, I feel your pain. I've been searching for the same thing recently. I
have an older style, brass drain that looks like a scaled up tank sump
drain. It works, but dribbles oil. I even looked in the auto racing market
for a quick drain to no avail. There MUST be something out there that
doesn't cost fifty freakin' dollars.
OK, so I'm cheap. But fifty bucks buys me enough avgas for a month of
flying! (Toddler at home, wife works too, I work, old house with old stuff
breaking all the time....yada yada yada).
Brian "busted water heater fixer boy" Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 54
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| Subject: | Dynon Installation manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Folks, after reviewing the Dynon insallation manual I found a few
discrepancies and areas where the description was a little weak.
Below are my questions and Dynon's responses.
WN
1. There is a pinout schematic on page 8 and a chart on page 9 that have a
couple of discrepancies.
Pins Schematic pg8 Chart pg9
13/25 Uart2 Ser Serial 1
11/23 Ext mag Serial 2
Dynon
1. This is a discrepancy and will be fixed in the next version of the
installation guide. For wiring the RS232 and External Magnetomer refer to
the relevant sections on the page following the one you're referring to.
(pgs 8/9)
WN
2. For the purpose of future expansion, what type of connector should be put
on the above mentioned serial port for pins 13/25? Standard DB9 female?
Dynon
2. There are no direct plans at this time to use that port for expansion.
A D-9 female will give you options for the future.
WN
3. There is no dialouge about the use of the "Keep Alive" circuit (Pin 2)
What's kept alive, the Pilot? ;{)
Dynon
3. Keep Alive is used to keep the clock on time if you don't have an
internal battery. If you do have an internal battery, we will also use
power from this pin to keep the internal battery fully charged. Normal draw
is less than 1mA.
(Ed. Note: this might be a good feature to hook up even with the internal
batt installed given the alternators most often fail right after warming
up.)
WN
4. Is Pin 14 a redundant power source or is it necessary.
Dynon
4. Pin 1 and 14 are tied together inside our instrument. You can use
either or both.
WN
5. Pin 15 is the External Batt backup source. What are the requirements/uses
for this. IE should it be independantly switched, can it be powered at the
same time as pin 1 and 14, etc.
Dynon
5. External Battery is used only when the master power goes away. If master
power goes away and either the Emergency Backup or Internal Battery are
present, the EFIS-D10 will display a message and automatically shutoff after
30 seconds unless any front panel button is pressed. If Emergency Backup is
turned on with NO master power being present, the EFIS-D10 will turn on and
operate normally just as it would off of master power.
(Ed. Note: I believe the terms "external batt" and "emergency batt" are one
and the same in this response)
WN
6. On the mounting instructions for the external mag sensor I am assuming
that when you say the mounting lugs should be on the bottom that you mean
they should face down. Also not sure if this device is impacted by being
enclosed in an aluminum wing etc. In other words is it just like a compass,
works anywhere except for near iron and current. I assume it is but you
might want to clarify that in the manual.
Dynon
6. Yes, the device works just like a compass; you need to keep it away from
ferrous metals and current carrying wires. The mounting plate should be
towards the bottom of the airplane.
(Ed. Note: one thing I haven't figured out is where to buy a DB9 connector
that has no steel in it, the one I was able to find that had the least
amount still has steel tangs and a collar for the attach screws, but the
screws are brass and aluminum, another question that arises from their
response is if one is upsidedown will this magnetometer still work?)
Although they have been very responsive to my questions etc. they still
haven't sent me the unit. I tried calling to order on the first day in the
morning, but the phone numbers they had in their manuals were wrong. So I
have a really cool wiring harness made up ready to fly.
Just call me old #63, the guy with the big empty hole in his panel.
Message 55
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
I think it's just south of Taxiway Foxtrot (West of the flightline).
Finn
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
>Once again, I'm forced to choose - Put the RV on the showline at SnF and tote
all of my stuff to a far-away campground .or. go for the convenience of Homebuilt
Camping, where I can camp beside the airplane and avoid carrying anything
anywhere...
>
>Problem is, I can't figure out where the "Homebuilt" camping area is located.
It would be just my luck if it was down by "Choppertown" or some other far away
outpost of the show. I've looked at the SnF website for a map showing the
Homebuilt Camping area, but no joy...
>
>Anyone familiar with the area? Suggestions?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>KB
>
>
>
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Got to be another way... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/28/2003 10:39:23 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
> Ok, I know there has to be a place to get these without spending $50!
Get a brass one from Fumoto for much less. Contact info and P/N has been in
the Yeller Pages for years.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
Message 57
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<SEERONFLY@aol.com>, "JOE FITZGERALD" <jjkfitz@aol.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Do Not Archive. Deleate if you have no humor.
Yea, Yea and Gummi got as far as thinking about the "baggage sign". Then he
remembered who's nornally flys on his SIX. I may not yell very loud but I
carry an 18" pipe wrench. (I told Tom it the "breaking the canopy" tool in
case he screws up) KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: flew in rv8
> From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: flew in rv8
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
> > Just one man's opinion - Delete now.
> > Tandom is the way to go.
> > As the pilot, you won't be flying in the back.
> > When you look right, all you will see is everything (side by side - you
> will
> > see that head of your pax).
> > In additional to the pax warning required by the FAA, you should have a
> sign
> > which says:
> >
> > Everything in the back seat is BAGGAGE, please act like it. :-)
>
>
> WHOOHOO!... Duck everybody INCOMING!!! (8-}!
Message 58
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer and Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
I've only been wrong once, and that was one time when I just thought I
was wrong. :-) Some time when you are on the ramp on a hot day look at
the skins on a dark colored airplane and then the ones on a light
colored airplane, You can see the the expansion between the ribs. I was
not talking about it being warmer under the bubble or flying I was
talking about ramp temps. As I said it probably
does not make any difference, I just did not like how hot they get with
dark colors on a hot day. Stein I bet that your airplane is an eye
catcher were ever you go. I like the color combo it grows on you. :)
Jerry
Stein Bruch wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Hi Dana,
>
> There is nothing wrong with Black, Jerry is both right and wrong (I know,
> he's very rarely wrong...). It is warmer, but these things are warm under
> that bubble anyway. I haven't been able to tell a huge difference between
> the inside of mine and others that are painted "cool" colors. Take a look at
> my bird, http://www.steinair.com.
>
> Plenty of moving air seems to do the trick when flying. Total Paint used on
> the plane was 1 Gallon of Black and 1 Gallon of Green (before thinning). I
> still have some of both left over. I used PPG Concept, and if you check the
> archives you'll find it's a most forgiving paint, plus it wet sands nicely.
> Anyway, I won't beleager the point.
>
> I used DP-40 Primer and used two gallons (not thinned) on the whole plane.
> I only have one good, heavy color coat, and it seems to be fine.
>
> Good luck and let us know how it works out.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis
> 90+hrs.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dana Overall
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer and Paint
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Jerry, the data sheets I have found show black will be 19 degrees warmer
> than red in direct sunlight on an ambiant temp. 110 degree day. I figure
> there's lots of red RVs out there.
>
> I've checked the archives and can only find where people say they've used
> Vari Prime but no reference to how easy it is to spray, cost and so on. Big
> question is "How many gallons to paint an RV".
>
> Blemishes..........that's what SuperFil is for!!
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 59
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| Subject: | Pressure testing hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Werner" <russ@wernerworld.com>
I have been perusing the archives regarding pressure testing hoses. I'd
like to make up a test rig to do my own. I have a few questions for those
in the hose know.
I am planning on testing with fluid (oil). Is it possible to get a valid
test with only air pressure (I understand the difficulties of getting 500psi
air pressure!)
I'm planning on using the pump from a porta-power plumbed through a valve,
through the hose, through a valve, and back to a reservoir feeding the
porta-power pump. If anyone has made something similar, can you contact me
off list with any details or lessons learned.
Aloha,
Russ Werner
HRII
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