Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:03 AM - Re: Dynon Installation manual (Jim Jewell)
2. 03:43 AM - Re: Pressure testing hoses (Richard V. Reynolds)
3. 04:56 AM - Re: Primer and Paint (Larry Pardue)
4. 05:46 AM - oil filter drain (PLTDBEEZER@aol.com)
5. 06:38 AM - Re: Pressure testing hoses (Larry Bowen)
6. 06:56 AM - Re: Got to be another way... (Bill VonDane)
7. 06:56 AM - Re: Got to be another way... (Bill VonDane)
8. 08:55 AM - Re: Pressure testing hoses (Elsa & Henry)
9. 09:48 AM - Lister's at SnF (WALTER KERR)
10. 11:36 AM - Re: Prop test results posted (PittsS1@aol.com)
11. 12:15 PM - Re: Wire ID Tags (David Wentzell)
12. 03:51 PM - Re: Lister's at SnF (Dana Overall)
13. 04:22 PM - Re: Radio and GPS For Sale (Jody Edwards)
14. 06:31 PM - Re: Prop test results posted (Randy Lervold)
15. 06:58 PM - Paint color (Wheeler North)
16. 07:05 PM - Re: Lister's at SnF (John Starn)
17. 07:12 PM - Re: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags (Gary)
18. 07:12 PM - Re: Aeroshell 15w50 (Gary)
19. 07:28 PM - Re: Removing Tires (Gary)
20. 07:35 PM - Re: Lister's at SnF (Bobby Hester)
21. 07:42 PM - Re: Removing Tires (Chris Good)
22. 08:36 PM - SF Bay Area Airports (Michael J. Robbins)
23. 09:06 PM - Re: SF Bay Area Airports (WPAerial@aol.com)
24. 09:07 PM - Re: oil filter drain (Don Diehl)
25. 09:23 PM - Cowling (Russ Alnutt)
26. 09:27 PM - carb heat auto cables (MICK MULLER)
27. 10:03 PM - Re: Cowling (Dan Checkoway)
28. 10:04 PM - Re: Cowling (Stein Bruch)
29. 10:23 PM - Re: Cowling (James E. Clark)
30. 11:23 PM - Re: oil filter drain (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Installation manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi there old #63,
I'm #40 and they tell me that My unit will ship no later than late next week
but maybe earlier. Earlier would be better Iwaaaann it!{|;-)
From the sound of it they are having and handling the usual assembly line
start up bugs.
Sure will be nice to get the panel done won't it?
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Installation manual
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Folks, after reviewing the Dynon insallation manual I found a few
> discrepancies and areas where the description was a little weak.
>
> Below are my questions and Dynon's responses.
>
> WN
> 1. There is a pinout schematic on page 8 and a chart on page 9 that have a
> couple of discrepancies.
>
> Pins Schematic pg8 Chart pg9
> 13/25 Uart2 Ser Serial 1
> 11/23 Ext mag Serial 2
>
> Dynon
> 1. This is a discrepancy and will be fixed in the next version of the
> installation guide. For wiring the RS232 and External Magnetomer refer to
> the relevant sections on the page following the one you're referring to.
> (pgs 8/9)
>
>
> WN
> 2. For the purpose of future expansion, what type of connector should be
put
> on the above mentioned serial port for pins 13/25? Standard DB9 female?
>
> Dynon
> 2. There are no direct plans at this time to use that port for expansion.
> A D-9 female will give you options for the future.
>
>
> WN
> 3. There is no dialouge about the use of the "Keep Alive" circuit (Pin 2)
> What's kept alive, the Pilot? ;{)
>
> Dynon
> 3. Keep Alive is used to keep the clock on time if you don't have an
> internal battery. If you do have an internal battery, we will also use
> power from this pin to keep the internal battery fully charged. Normal
draw
> is less than 1mA.
> (Ed. Note: this might be a good feature to hook up even with the internal
> batt installed given the alternators most often fail right after warming
> up.)
>
>
> WN
> 4. Is Pin 14 a redundant power source or is it necessary.
>
> Dynon
> 4. Pin 1 and 14 are tied together inside our instrument. You can use
> either or both.
>
>
> WN
> 5. Pin 15 is the External Batt backup source. What are the
requirements/uses
> for this. IE should it be independantly switched, can it be powered at the
> same time as pin 1 and 14, etc.
>
> Dynon
> 5. External Battery is used only when the master power goes away. If
master
> power goes away and either the Emergency Backup or Internal Battery are
> present, the EFIS-D10 will display a message and automatically shutoff
after
> 30 seconds unless any front panel button is pressed. If Emergency Backup
is
> turned on with NO master power being present, the EFIS-D10 will turn on
and
> operate normally just as it would off of master power.
> (Ed. Note: I believe the terms "external batt" and "emergency batt" are
one
> and the same in this response)
>
>
> WN
> 6. On the mounting instructions for the external mag sensor I am assuming
> that when you say the mounting lugs should be on the bottom that you mean
> they should face down. Also not sure if this device is impacted by being
> enclosed in an aluminum wing etc. In other words is it just like a
compass,
> works anywhere except for near iron and current. I assume it is but you
> might want to clarify that in the manual.
>
> Dynon
> 6. Yes, the device works just like a compass; you need to keep it away
from
> ferrous metals and current carrying wires. The mounting plate should be
> towards the bottom of the airplane.
>
>
> (Ed. Note: one thing I haven't figured out is where to buy a DB9 connector
> that has no steel in it, the one I was able to find that had the least
> amount still has steel tangs and a collar for the attach screws, but the
> screws are brass and aluminum, another question that arises from their
> response is if one is upsidedown will this magnetometer still work?)
>
> Although they have been very responsive to my questions etc. they still
> haven't sent me the unit. I tried calling to order on the first day in the
> morning, but the phone numbers they had in their manuals were wrong. So I
> have a really cool wiring harness made up ready to fly.
>
> Just call me old #63, the guy with the big empty hole in his panel.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Pressure testing hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Never use air pressure for pressure testing!!!! Air is very compressible and
stores lots of energy. An air filled balloon pops. A water filled balloon just
leaks.
Use only water (best) or oil (messy).
A pressure test need only be done to 1.5 X working pressure.
i.e. oil pressure 75 psi X 1.5 = 112.5 psi
Richard Reynolds, RV-6A, Norfolk, VA
Russ Werner wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Werner" <russ@wernerworld.com>
>
> I have been perusing the archives regarding pressure testing hoses. I'd
> like to make up a test rig to do my own. I have a few questions for those
> in the hose know.
>
> I am planning on testing with fluid (oil). Is it possible to get a valid
> test with only air pressure (I understand the difficulties of getting 500psi
> air pressure!)
>
> I'm planning on using the pump from a porta-power plumbed through a valve,
> through the hose, through a valve, and back to a reservoir feeding the
> porta-power pump. If anyone has made something similar, can you contact me
> off list with any details or lessons learned.
>
> Aloha,
>
> Russ Werner
> HRII
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Primer and Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> I've only been wrong once, and that was one time when I just thought I
> was wrong. :-) Some time when you are on the ramp on a hot day look at
> the skins on a dark colored airplane and then the ones on a light
> colored airplane, You can see the the expansion between the ribs. I was
> not talking about it being warmer under the bubble or flying I was
> talking about ramp temps. As I said it probably
> does not make any difference, I just did not like how hot they get with
> dark colors on a hot day.
Speaking as one with a largely black airplane, there are a few other
effects. One is that after I pull the airplane out of the hangar into the
Sun, I am likely to get a couple of loud and disconcerting bangs as the
skins warm up. Another is that if the tanks are filled to too near full, in
the Sun, fuel will come shooting out of the vents intermittently, causing
FBO people to come running and yelling about the fuel coming out of your
airplane, thereby disturbing your lunch of vending machine peanut butter
crackers.
The black is hard to keep clean looking too.
Still like the black.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 4
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| Subject: | oil filter drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: PLTDBEEZER@aol.com
Has anyone used the oil filter drain kit that Sporty's sells?
Dave Beizer
RV6
Message 5
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| Subject: | Pressure testing hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Just FYI, I've only made up one hose so far. But I took it to the local
airport's hose shop. They tested it for free. He said the paperwork
was so intense it wasn't worth the trouble to write it all up just to
charge me for one hose. How about that -- FAA paperwork working to my
advantage!
-LB
> -----Original Message-----
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Werner" <russ@wernerworld.com>
>
> I have been perusing the archives regarding pressure testing
> hoses. I'd like to make up a test rig to do my own. I have
> a few questions for those in the hose know.
>
> I am planning on testing with fluid (oil). Is it possible to
> get a valid test with only air pressure (I understand the
> difficulties of getting 500psi air pressure!)
>
> I'm planning on using the pump from a porta-power plumbed
> through a valve, through the hose, through a valve, and back
> to a reservoir feeding the porta-power pump. If anyone has
> made something similar, can you contact me off list with any
> details or lessons learned.
>
> Aloha,
>
> Russ Werner
> HRII
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Got to be another way... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Brian...
That's the same one I have now too... I would have thought Aeroquip would
have made one, but I have been unable to find one...
I did see the one in the yeller pages made by Fumoto. It looks ok...
http://www.kennedydiesel.com/fumotovalve.html
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Got to be another way...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Got to be another way...
>Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 11:36:00 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
>Ok, I know there has to be a place to get these without spending $50!
>
>http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/Sacramento_Sky_Ranch_Oil_drain_valves_5
3
>.html
>
>-Bill VonDane
Bill,
Yeah, I feel your pain. I've been searching for the same thing recently. I
have an older style, brass drain that looks like a scaled up tank sump
drain. It works, but dribbles oil. I even looked in the auto racing market
for a quick drain to no avail. There MUST be something out there that
doesn't cost fifty freakin' dollars.
OK, so I'm cheap. But fifty bucks buys me enough avgas for a month of
flying! (Toddler at home, wife works too, I work, old house with old stuff
breaking all the time....yada yada yada).
Brian "busted water heater fixer boy" Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Got to be another way... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Yeah, that's what I have on there now, and it's getting a little weak...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <RICKRV6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Got to be another way...
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/28/03 1:39:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bill@vondane.com
writes:
> Ok, I know there has to be a place to get these without spending $50!
>
>
http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/Sacramento_Sky_Ranch_Oil_drain_valves_53
> .html
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - 90+ hrs
> www.vondane.com
>
>
Bill,
Try a Curtis Drain Valve. I used one on my -6 and never had a problem.
They're available through a number of sources.
<A
HREF="http://www.curtissuperiorvalve.com/history.html">http://www.curtissupe
riorvalve.com/history.html
Rick McBride
80027
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Pressure testing hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I bought the fittings and hose material from Van's,- 2-1/4", 2-3/8" and
2-1/2" for pressures, fuel and oil respectively and made them up ok. I took
them to an Aeroquip dealer in Montreal (that supplies a lot of hoses to
Bombardier, here) and they tested them for me. ($8 Can. each) They invited
me in to witness the test. The same size hoses were mounted in series in a
transparent test chamber and filled with fluid of some kind, and pressurized
to 3,000 PSI! And left for one minute! It was amusing to see the 3/8" and
1/2" ones "erect" under pressure. The technician told me that I had done a
good job because I had really tightened the nut into the ferrule so that
there was a tiny gap (<.015") between them and a lot of hoses fail the test
because that gap was not closed enough. Anyway, $48 Can. has given me full
confidence in them.
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
Every year someone comes up with a let's get together so we can put a face
on some of the other listers we do not know other than by this list.
I am going to put a note in van's tent ( if they allow me :>) ) that says
let's meet here at noon each day. I will usually show up and we can go
somewhere to eat lunch together and get to chat eyeball to eyeball.
Let's plan on being there at noon and departing for lunch around 10 minutes
after that.
See you there,
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, 9A rotary power building
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Prop test results posted |
--> RV-List message posted by: PittsS1@aol.com
randy,
can't open your prop results. attached is a comparison i did a while
back. it was published in SPORT AEROBATICS.
mike
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wire ID Tags |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Wentzell <wntzl@execpc.com>
Hey,
A while ago I made up wire ID tags and offered them to listers.
I first made up no's 1 - 40, - silly me - no where near enough!
So, then 41 - 80, and still needed more!
So, for those who are interested , I now have no's 81 - 120.
Same deal ... same price! (let me know which no's you need
since I have not kept track of to whom I sent what))
SASE to:
David Wentzell
220 White Sand Lane
Racine, Wisconsin 53402
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Lister's at SnF |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
>Every year someone comes up with a let's get together so we can put a face
>on some of the other listers we do not know other than by this list.
I am going to put a note in van's tent ( if they allow me :>) ) that says
let's meet here at noon each day. I will usually show up and we can go
somewhere to eat lunch together and get to chat eyeball to eyeball.
Let's plan on being there at noon and departing for lunch around 10 minutes
after that.
See you there,
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, 9A rotary power building
Well, I'm starting the "let's get together thread". Since I am new (one
year) to the RV list, but very old on the plastic airplane list, I would
truly like to put some faces to names to those on the dark side (alum.).
Bernie's idea of meeting for lunch provides me with a great lunch plan on
Sat. and Sun.
However, is anyone up for a "let's swap airplane lies" get together? The
regular airshow on Sat. starts at 2PM and ends and 5PM. I'd like to suggest
a gathering at the Van's tent 5PM Saturday and walk to someone's campsite
(even the parking lot if we have too) for a very informal beer and brats
Saturday evening dinner. The night airshow starts at 8:45PM for those who
will not fall over looking skyward after partaking in more beer than brats.
If we can pull this together, I will bring the grill and a couple large
coolers (I'm driving as I can't take the chance of a line of thunder boomers
moving in and missing work (CPA)).
For all you "pre pre-punched" guys who are flying I'd really like to hand
you a handful of dirt to see just how you mine the ore for spars and fit
that red cape Van's give you when you order that little wheel on the back
end.
Seriously, anybody up for it??
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Radio and GPS For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jody Edwards <jodyedwards@juno.com>
Did you sell your com radio yet? I'm still interested if its still
available.
On Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:42:23 -0500 Jody Edwards <jodyedwards@juno.com>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jody Edwards <jodyedwards@juno.com>
>
> Hello Paul, I'll take the VAL com for $300 if its still available.
> Email
> me at jodyedwards@juno.com with your payment preference and shipping
>
> info. Thanks, JodyEdwards
> On Fri, 28 Mar 2003 08:55:56 -0500 "Paul Brown"
> <nightmare@adelphia.net>
> writes:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown"
> <nightmare@adelphia.net>
> >
> > I have updated my panel, a little, and have a VAL760 and a
> Northstar
> > GPS60 for sale. Both were working great when I took them out last
>
> > week. The GPS60 has it's antenna, antenna cable and tray. The
> VAL760
> > also has it's tray. I also have the installation and instruction
> > manuals as well.
> >
> > I would like to get $900 for the GPS and $300 for the VAL. Anyone
>
> > interested?
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Prop test results posted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Do you mean the web page or the Sport Aerobatics article?
I just checked and the prop page is working fine...
www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: <PittsS1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop test results posted
> --> RV-List message posted by: PittsS1@aol.com
>
> randy,
> can't open your prop results. attached is a comparison i did a
while
> back. it was published in SPORT AEROBATICS.
> mike
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
I don't know much about anything but I can tell you that black paint is a
lot hotter than any other color.
I have had several customers who owned black BMWs that often complained
about having to have interior work done all the time.
We stuck some calibrated temp recorders in the car and inside the dash area,
one of these reached 240 degress F on a hot 100+ degree day in the sun. The
car was so hot bugs were getting it confused with the sun and were going
inverted over it thereby augering into the paint to lie there and burn.
My plane and both cars be white. Or at least dirty white.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Lister's at SnF |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Sorry we wouldn't be able to be there, working at the ovens and anvil, ya
know. Just got a new shipment of ore from downunder. Our capes have a JH on
them and they came from John his-self, (little wheel in back ?) HRII don't
come no odder way. :<)) Wish we could join ya but have a great time.
GUMMIBEAR & KABONG N561FS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lister's at SnF
> For all you "pre pre-punched" guys who are flying I'd really like to hand
> you a handful of dirt to see just how you mine the ore for spars and fit
> that red cape Van's give you when you order that little wheel on the back
> end.
>
> Seriously, anybody up for it??
>
>
> Dana Overall
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
No, he didn't mean with the timing off, he meant with the MAGNETO off.
Gary
Original message:
Time: 03:57:35 PM PST US
From: "Keith Vasey" <keith@galvinflying.com>
Subject: Electronic Ignition vs. Mags
--> RV-List message posted by: "Keith Vasey" <keith@galvinflying.com>
"Scarcely tell"... is that a good thing or a bad thing? Do you want to
operate with the mag timing "off"?
Keith Vasey
Seattle
---
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroshell 15w50 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Sam's Club.
Gary
Time: 07:17:07 AM PST US
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Aeroshell 15w50
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Where's the cheapest place to get Aeroshell 15w50?
-Bill
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
---
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
I made a simple homemade bead breaker. It is just a lever pinned to a bracket
on the wall, and pinned to a bar with a curved piece of 1/8 inch steel welded
on the end. The curved piece fits on the bead next to the rim. Put a piece of
plywood under the wheel to avoid scratching it.
Gary
Time: 04:36:04 PM PST US
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: Removing Tires
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Next month I will do my annual condition inspection and plan to replace my
main tires. This is my third set. Removing the tires without a dedicated
'breaker' is something I have not mastered. I tug, pull, swear, and nothing
seems to make it an easy task.
What works for you?
---
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Lister's at SnF |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Dana Overall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
>
>
>>From: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
>>Every year someone comes up with a let's get together so we can put a face
>>on some of the other listers we do not know other than by this list.
>>
>>
>I am going to put a note in van's tent ( if they allow me :>) ) that says
>let's meet here at noon each day. I will usually show up and we can go
>somewhere to eat lunch together and get to chat eyeball to eyeball.
>Let's plan on being there at noon and departing for lunch around 10 minutes
>after that.
>See you there,
>Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, 9A rotary power building
>
>
>Well, I'm starting the "let's get together thread". Since I am new (one
>year) to the RV list, but very old on the plastic airplane list, I would
>truly like to put some faces to names to those on the dark side (alum.).
>Bernie's idea of meeting for lunch provides me with a great lunch plan on
>Sat. and Sun.
>
>However, is anyone up for a "let's swap airplane lies" get together? The
>regular airshow on Sat. starts at 2PM and ends and 5PM. I'd like to suggest
>a gathering at the Van's tent 5PM Saturday and walk to someone's campsite
>(even the parking lot if we have too) for a very informal beer and brats
>Saturday evening dinner. The night airshow starts at 8:45PM for those who
>will not fall over looking skyward after partaking in more beer than brats.
>If we can pull this together, I will bring the grill and a couple large
>coolers (I'm driving as I can't take the chance of a line of thunder boomers
>moving in and missing work (CPA)).
>
>For all you "pre pre-punched" guys who are flying I'd really like to hand
>you a handful of dirt to see just how you mine the ore for spars and fit
>that red cape Van's give you when you order that little wheel on the back
>end.
>
>Seriously, anybody up for it??
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider/fuselage
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
Hey, Dana I'm planing on driving down with a buddy on Wed. and going to
the show Thru. and Friday, then driving back Sat. will you be there
then? Maybe we'll bump into each other.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Having struggled though a couple of tire changes, & not having the welding skills
to fabricate the sort of device Gary described, I bought a "mini tire changer"
from this place for $49 + shipping.
http://www.asedeals.com/manual_tire_changers.html
It made my last tire change a pleasure. I think Harbor Freight has something similar.
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A
--
On Sat, 29 Mar 2003 20:15:11
Gary wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
>I made a simple homemade bead breaker. It is just a lever pinned to a bracket
on the wall, and pinned to a bar with a curved piece of 1/8 inch steel welded
on the end. The curved piece fits on the bead next to the rim. Put a piece
of plywood under the wheel to avoid scratching it.
>
>Gary
>
> Time: 04:36:04 PM PST US
>
> From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> Subject: Removing Tires
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> Next month I will do my annual condition inspection and plan to replace
my
> main tires. This is my third set. Removing the tires without a dedicated
> 'breaker' is something I have not mastered. I tug, pull, swear, and nothing
> seems to make it an easy task.
>
> What works for you?
>
>
>
>---
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | SF Bay Area Airports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins@verizon.net>
To those of you in the bay area, I'm planning on visiting a friend in
Fremont and it looks like San Jose Muni is the closest airport. Is it
friendly to us little guys? Last time I flew out of SJC was in 1969. I
know things have changed a lot. I have the option of filing IFR if
necessary. I'm planning on arriving next Saturday or Sunday.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 N88MJ 185 hours
Seattle area
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: SF Bay Area Airports |
--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
i have not been there in a long time myself, but u might think hayward, i
think it would be closer 2 fremont.
do not archive
jerry wilken
rv6a n699wp 52 hr.
albany oregon
going 2 sun - fun 2 morrow : )
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: oil filter drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Diehl <diehldon@attbi.com>
>
> Has anyone used the oil filter drain kit that Sporty's sells?
>
The "tooling" for my RV-4 filter drain is a whole lot cheaper:
1. Loosen and unscrew the filter about 1/4 turn.
2. Use and awl to poke a small hole near the aft end of the filter
can, just about at the transition from cylinder to dome.
3. Place a cottage cheese carton on the firewall shelf under the filter.
4. Rotate the filter so the oil dribbles into the carton.
5. Go away and do something else for about 5 minutes.
Don Diehl
Bremerton WA
RV-4 N28EW
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
Does anyone know what a Sam Jones speed cowling is?
Message 26
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| Subject: | carb heat auto cables |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM@bigpond.com>
Hal,
For what its worth, my partners and I in a Comanche 180 had to replace both
the carby heat cable and mixture cable. In both cases, they were auto parts
according to our LAME - (that's Aussie for A & P I think) based on the part numbers
stamped on the outside. The dates said they were less than five years old,
and the failure occurred when the nylon inner cable had become so hot it
had seized up. One of us was extremely lucky to survive the in flight final failure(happened
as he pulled carby heat coming on base leg). I know now why the
people in charge insist on genuine certified parts - in this case it was a valid
reason. We had a minor heart attack when the two cables came in at A$700 including
taxes, but sometimes you just gotta pay the extra.
Mick Muller
From: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: CARB HEAT HOOKUP was: Carb mixture hookup
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
It was suggested to me that I use a simple automotive choke cable for the
carb heat cable. It is wire and I terminated it by passing it thru and
then wrapping it around the arm. Good for over 100 hours but I would
really like something more satisfying.
How have you done your carb heat?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I think you mean a Sam James cowl:
http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (canopy)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cowling
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
>
> Does anyone know what a Sam Jones speed cowling is?
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Check the archives, and look specifically at Jim Norman's posts. LOTS of
information on the Sam James Cowls.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Russ Alnutt
Subject: RV-List: Cowling
--> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
Does anyone know what a Sam Jones speed cowling is?
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
You probably mean "Sam James".
Sam James and his son (Will?) do a bit of fiberglass work. Sam has a
"Fiberglass 101" video even.
Same took wha I **think** was the old Barnard cowl (round circular inlets)
and improved upon it. He made and sold a plenum to go with it. Supposedly it
gets a little more speed due to less and/or more efficient airflow (drag)
through the cowl with just as good (or better) cooling.
Hope this helps.
p.s. If anyone is interested I still have a plenum with the circular inlets
that *think* I am willing to sell as I suspect I am not going to be willing
to do the extra work in a month or two.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Russ Alnutt
> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 12:10 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Cowling
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
>
> Does anyone know what a Sam Jones speed cowling is?
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: oil filter drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/29/2003 9:07:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
diehldon@attbi.com writes:
> The "tooling" for my RV-4 filter drain is a whole lot cheaper:
> 1. Loosen and unscrew the filter about 1/4 turn.
> 2. Use and awl to poke a small hole near the aft end of the filter
> can, just about at the transition from cylinder to dome.
> 3. Place a cottage cheese carton on the firewall shelf under the filter.
> 4. Rotate the filter so the oil dribbles into the carton.
> 5. Go away and do something else for about 5 minutes.
I've got what I think is an even better technique. Leave your filter
installed, but poke a 1/16" diameter hole in the top of it using your toad
sticker. Open your sump drain valve. Let the first quart or so drain out,
take your sample for analysis and let the balance drain into a pail until you
think it's just about done.
Then fire up your air compressor (clean filtered dry air only need apply) set
at 10 psi or so and blow air into the hole in your filter (the rubber tipped
nozzles seal well). You will see a lot more oil that was trapped in the
system and filter get blown down into the sump to drain out. Do this a few
times while you clean and gap your plugs and when you finally unscrew the
filter, it will be 99.44% empty. Don't forget to cut it open to inspect for
metal.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 593hrs)
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