Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:04 AM - Re: Re:Sealing Fuel Tanks (Elsa & Henry)
2. 07:04 AM - Re: T & W Propeller notice (Bill Dube)
3. 07:22 AM - Rivet cutter on E bay (Bill Dube)
4. 07:27 AM - Re: Re:Sealing Fuel Tanks (Scott Vanartsdalen)
5. 10:54 AM - Re: RV Grin (Terry Watson)
6. 11:09 AM - Subcommittee on Aviation (Bill VonDane)
7. 11:37 AM - Re: RV Grin (Rob Prior)
8. 11:38 AM - Re: RV Grin (Chris W)
9. 12:27 PM - wheel bearing failures (SportAV8R@aol.com)
10. 12:56 PM - Re: RV Grin (Larry Bowen)
11. 01:50 PM - Re: RV Grin (Elsa & Henry)
12. 02:00 PM - Re: wheel bearing failures (Cy Galley)
13. 02:49 PM - Re: Prop test results posted (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
14. 03:01 PM - Re: RV Grin (Rick Galati)
15. 03:32 PM - Re: wheel bearing failures (van Bladeren, Ron)
16. 04:29 PM - Superior XP-360 Oiling system changes (long) (Charlie Kuss)
17. 05:52 PM - Re: Prop test results posted (Dave Bristol)
18. 06:11 PM - Re: wheel bearing failures (David Carter)
19. 06:18 PM - Re: wheel bearing failures (John Starn)
20. 07:04 PM - Re: Prop test results posted (Geoff Evans)
21. 08:40 PM - Electric Instruments For Sale (Speedy11@aol.com)
22. 09:26 PM - Stripped axle/nut (Dan Checkoway)
23. 10:24 PM - Re: Electric Instruments For Sale ()
24. 10:57 PM - Got the axle nut off...disregard previous message (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re:Sealing Fuel Tanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Got to agree with Bob Olds post on the subject. Sometime before I started
building my tanks in 1996, I read an article by Van in an RVator on sealing
them and he stated that if you use Pro-seal
"sparingly" you should be able to get by with one can of it. My reaction was
"I don't want to use it sparingly!! I'll use what it takes!" After riveting
the ribs in and letting the pro-seal cure for a day I applied a second coat
over the seams and rivet heads essentially coating the rib's and stiffener's
flanges.That would cover any pin-holes in the first coat. I used 1 1/3
quarts of proseal. No Leaks!
Cheers!! ---Henry Hore
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: T & W Propeller notice |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 10:38 PM 4/8/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Kunkel" <rvator@socal.rr.com>
>
>Here's the first fall-out about this. Such a criminal shame!!!
>
>http://www.ntsb.gov/NTSB/brief.asp?ev_id=20030206X00174&key=1
The phrase "reckless endangerment" comes to mind. Someone should
do some jail time, if there is any justice in the world.
My primary motivation for building my own airplane is to be able
to do my own maintenance on my own plane. Slipshod and negligent
maintenance have caused me a number of tense moments and a couple of
official emergencies in rental aircraft. On a rental 172, I had the oil
temperature peg AND the oil pressure go deep into the red and stay there
while I nursed the plane back to the ground. The last straw was when the
FBO said, "Yeah, we know. That one just runs hot. Don't worry about it."
Message 3
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| Subject: | Rivet cutter on E bay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2521019602
Nice rivet cutter on E bay. Two days left. No one bidding. $2.99 plus
$5.95 S+H.
Not clearly listed so it will likely be a bargain.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re:Sealing Fuel Tanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I have to agree too. I went with Van's recommendations and now I have two leaky
tanks.
Now I'm heading for the store to buy some green loc-tite.
Elsa & Henry <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by:
"Elsa & Henry"
Got to agree with Bob Olds post on the subject. Sometime before I started
building my tanks in 1996, I read an article by Van in an RVator on sealing
them and he stated that if you use Pro-seal
"sparingly" you should be able to get by with one can of it. My reaction was
"I don't want to use it sparingly!! I'll use what it takes!" After riveting
the ribs in and letting the pro-seal cure for a day I applied a second coat
over the seams and rivet heads essentially coating the rib's and stiffener's
flanges.That would cover any pin-holes in the first coat. I used 1 1/3
quarts of proseal. No Leaks!
Cheers!! ---Henry Hore
--
For God says, "At just the right time, I heard you. On the day of salvation, I
helped you." Indeed, God is ready to help you right now. Today is the day of
salvation.
2 Corinthians 6:2, New Living Translation
---------------------------------
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Rick,
I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a
negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for information
about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a competing Yahoo RV-8
list. It is necessary to subscribe to both to keep up with what's happening
with RV-8's. Many but not all RV-8 builders and flyers subscribe to both,
so many post the same message on both lists, and some also copy that to the
RV list. I don't know how active the RV-3, 6, 7 & 9 lists are, but much of
the information overlaps between models of RVs. Lists are great ways to keep
up with information, but I don't understand the need to fragment RV
information even more.
Terry
Subject: RV-List: RV Grin
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Listers,
I initiated a new Yahoo group dedicated to RV information sharing with the
goal of exchanging RV information with one another in as short a time as
possible. Intended only to broaden and promote the RV experience, the
success of this Yahoo group forum will be based entirely upon the support
(or die for the lack thereof ) of those interested souls who choose to
participate. The only intent of the "RV Grin" is to offer an alternative
open forum for the free and open distribution of thoughts and ideas relative
to the RV experience. If you are of a mind, check out and participate in
this brand new Yahoo group dedicated to RV'ers everywhere. We are starting
with a blank page and it is entirely up to the like-minded to fill in the
blanks and make the "Grin" an agreeable if alternative RV web site.
Rick Galati
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rvgrin/
Message 6
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<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>, "vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Subcommittee on Aviation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I case anyone is interested in hearing Phil Boyer address congress regarding
the Meigs issue:
http://www.house.gov/transportation/audio/
do not archive
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Fragmenting RV information? Believe it or not, it's possible to build
absolutely stunning RV's without access to *any* email lists... 8-)
Join the groups you want, skip the ones you don't. Personally I only
read the Matronics RV- and RV7-Lists, but I know there are lots of other
Matronics and Yahoo groups out there.
-RB4
Terry Watson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Rick,
>
> I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a
> negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for information
> about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a competing Yahoo RV-8
> list. It is necessary to subscribe to both to keep up with what's happening
> with RV-8's. Many but not all RV-8 builders and flyers subscribe to both,
> so many post the same message on both lists, and some also copy that to the
> RV list. I don't know how active the RV-3, 6, 7 & 9 lists are, but much of
> the information overlaps between models of RVs. Lists are great ways to keep
> up with information, but I don't understand the need to fragment RV
> information even more.
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
Knowing what I know now, I would have to agree. I was once subscribed to 12
different RV lists now I am down to 6 I think maybe 5. Unless someone can give
me a good reason for another one that I can't think of. BTW for those of you
who don't already know what the lists are.
RV-3,4,6,7,8,9,10 as well as a general RV-whatever list on both Yahoo and
matronics.com That's a lot of rv lists with at least 4 being applicable no
matter what plane you are building or planing on building.
Terry Watson wrote:
> --? RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" ?terry@tcwatson.com?
>
> Rick,
>
> I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a
> negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for information
> about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a competing Yahoo RV-8
> list. It is necessary to subscribe to both to keep up with what's happening
> with RV-8's. Many but not all RV-8 builders and flyers subscribe to both,
> so many post the same message on both lists, and some also copy that to the
> RV list. I don't know how active the RV-3, 6, 7 ? 9 lists are, but much of
> the information overlaps between models of RVs. Lists are great ways to keep
> up with information, but I don't understand the need to fragment RV
> information even more.
>
> Terry
>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV Grin
>
> --? RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati ?rick6a@yahoo.com?
>
> Listers,
>
> I initiated a new Yahoo group dedicated to RV information sharing with the
> goal of exchanging RV information with one another in as short a time as
> possible. Intended only to broaden and promote the RV experience, the
> success of this Yahoo group forum will be based entirely upon the support
> (or die for the lack thereof ) of those interested souls who choose to
> participate. The only intent of the "RV Grin" is to offer an alternative
> open forum for the free and open distribution of thoughts and ideas relative
> to the RV experience. If you are of a mind, check out and participate in
> this brand new Yahoo group dedicated to RV'ers everywhere. We are starting
> with a blank page and it is entirely up to the like-minded to fill in the
> blanks and make the "Grin" an agreeable if alternative RV web site.
>
> Rick Galati
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rvgrin/
>
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35? 20.492'
W97? 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 9
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| Subject: | wheel bearing failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Well, I pulled the wheel off and answered my own question: RV-6 wheel
bearings are Timken part numbers 08125 (cone) and 08231 (cup). Found some on
the internet for about 20 bucks a set, plus UPS. Ordered 2 sets so I'd have
a spare (and because the minimum order was $25).
Research I just did in the Archives suggests the blue heavy duty lithium
grease I just bought nd loaded into my new Lisle bearing packer may not be
the best choice, so I may look for AeroShell #5 if it's available from my
local Shell guy.
My real concern is just what's going on here with my always-hangared
airplane... two bearing failures in 280 hours... one was a nose wheel bearing
at about 200 hrs, and now the outside left main. I don't think I am
overtightening them, and I repacked them when I changed out of the cheapo
tires and into some Michelins last year. The bearings both showed galling of
the cups in the pattern of roller contact, as if something happened to
corrode or pit them while the bearing was sitting. The rollers themselves
became discolored (heat?) but appeared smooth. Fortunately, the failure mode
is gradual, and announced by enough noise that it is hard to miss the problem
or to pull the wrong wheel looking for the culprit.
Should I be repacking every year?
Thanks, everybody.
Bill B
RV-6A
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Exactly. Remember the good 'ol days when there was just one list? One
place to look for the answer. There are too many now.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003: The Year of Flight!
do not archive
Terry Watson said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Rick,
>
> I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a
> negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for
> information about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a
> competing Yahoo RV-8 list. It is necessary to subscribe to both to keep
> up with what's happening with RV-8's. Many but not all RV-8 builders
> and flyers subscribe to both, so many post the same message on both
> lists, and some also copy that to the RV list. I don't know how active
> the RV-3, 6, 7 & 9 lists are, but much of the information overlaps
> between models of RVs. Lists are great ways to keep up with information,
> but I don't understand the need to fragment RV information even more.
>
> Terry
>
>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV Grin
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I initiated a new Yahoo group dedicated to RV information sharing with
> the goal of exchanging RV information with one another in as short a
> time as possible. Intended only to broaden and promote the RV
> experience, the success of this Yahoo group forum will be based entirely
> upon the support (or die for the lack thereof ) of those interested
> souls who choose to participate. The only intent of the "RV Grin" is to
> offer an alternative open forum for the free and open distribution of
> thoughts and ideas relative to the RV experience. If you are of a mind,
> check out and participate in this brand new Yahoo group dedicated to
> RV'ers everywhere. We are starting with a blank page and it is entirely
> up to the like-minded to fill in the blanks and make the "Grin" an
> agreeable if alternative RV web site.
>
> Rick Galati
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rvgrin/
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Pursuant to Rob Prior's post, I only joined the one and only list (this one)
six months after the first flight of my RV6-A. I was told about this list by
my hangar mate (not RV) and I joined last November for pure interest and
provide comments on things where IMHO I could help out. There was only one
RV being built in my area and that was~100 miles away and its progress was
behind mine. The only pre-punched holes were in the wing skins and I was one
of the first to purchase that option in 1994. Otherwise it was sweated out!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: wheel bearing failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Wheel bearings should be re-packed every year. You may be over tightening
the axle nut. It should be just snugged up and then backed off until the
wheel turns free with out any play.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: wheel bearing failures
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Well, I pulled the wheel off and answered my own question: RV-6 wheel
> bearings are Timken part numbers 08125 (cone) and 08231 (cup). Found some
on
> the internet for about 20 bucks a set, plus UPS. Ordered 2 sets so I'd
have
> a spare (and because the minimum order was $25).
>
> Research I just did in the Archives suggests the blue heavy duty lithium
> grease I just bought nd loaded into my new Lisle bearing packer may not be
> the best choice, so I may look for AeroShell #5 if it's available from my
> local Shell guy.
>
> My real concern is just what's going on here with my always-hangared
> airplane... two bearing failures in 280 hours... one was a nose wheel
bearing
> at about 200 hrs, and now the outside left main. I don't think I am
> overtightening them, and I repacked them when I changed out of the cheapo
> tires and into some Michelins last year. The bearings both showed galling
of
> the cups in the pattern of roller contact, as if something happened to
> corrode or pit them while the bearing was sitting. The rollers themselves
> became discolored (heat?) but appeared smooth. Fortunately, the failure
mode
> is gradual, and announced by enough noise that it is hard to miss the
problem
> or to pull the wrong wheel looking for the culprit.
>
> Should I be repacking every year?
>
> Thanks, everybody.
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Prop test results posted |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
I didn't write 2200 to 2300 RPM. I wrote 2000 to 2300 RPM.
I didn't write all Lycoming engines. I wrote Lycoming 360 engines with a undampened
crankshaft.
(The second definition of dampen is to check or stop. So undampened is one possible
spelling.)
It depends on the propellers response to the undampened crankshaft Lycoming 360
engine.
The MT Propeller engine RPM restriction is 2050 to 2300 RPM.
Applies to all Lycoming 360 engines with undampened crankshaft.
There is NOT a midrange engine RPM restriction on Lycoming 360 engines with a dampened
crankshaft.
Hartzell propellers respond diferently because of the difference in propeller weight.
I don't know the exact RPM range to avoid extended operation with that
propeller (other than somewhere between 2000 to 2300 RPM). It will be documented
for each certified engine/propeller combination.
Jim Ayers
EAA Flight Advisor
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Terry and others,
One complaint I note is that some people from time to time grow frustrated with
the delays inherent in some moderated groups. The RV Grin forum was started
for one reason. When someone chooses to post a question or comment, it gets posted
NOW. I do not believe that a group dedicated to all-encompassing RV information
will cause undue fragmentation, certainly far less than the 3,4,6,7,8,9,10
or even 11 model groups do now, on the various lists such as they are.
If you want to visit the RV Grin and participate, fine. If not, that is most
certainly your prerogative. I have simply prepared a room. That's all. Now as
you probably now, Yahoo groups come and go all the time. And this group, like
any other will succeed or fail based entirely on the active participation it
gets.
Anyway, it should come as no surprise that many RV builders do not subscribe to
this list or any other for that matter. Still others do not rely on any single
list to be their sole source of informal RV information. And new people do
get a builders number every day, the RV family is growing, now more than ever.
I only provided a new room addition, and with it the promise of a faster potential
response time for its users. Only time will tell if this new group will
be accepted. Its just a simple idea and I gave it a shot. Either way, I
know I did what I could to happily promote the best airplane available to the
average homebuilder at any price.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rvgrin/
Rick
I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a
> negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for
> information about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a
> competing Yahoo RV-8 list. ........ Lists are great ways to keep up with information,
but I don't understand the need to fragment RV information even more.
> Terry
---------------------------------
Message 15
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| Subject: | wheel bearing failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
Hmmm.. A French tire relying on a good 'ol American bearing. No doubt the
underperfoming tire caused the premature failure of the bearing doing it's
best (as usual) to carry the load!
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R@aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R@aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: wheel bearing failures
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Well, I pulled the wheel off and answered my own question: RV-6 wheel
bearings are Timken part numbers 08125 (cone) and 08231 (cup). Found some
on
the internet for about 20 bucks a set, plus UPS. Ordered 2 sets so I'd have
a spare (and because the minimum order was $25).
Research I just did in the Archives suggests the blue heavy duty lithium
grease I just bought nd loaded into my new Lisle bearing packer may not be
the best choice, so I may look for AeroShell #5 if it's available from my
local Shell guy.
My real concern is just what's going on here with my always-hangared
airplane... two bearing failures in 280 hours... one was a nose wheel
bearing
at about 200 hrs, and now the outside left main. I don't think I am
overtightening them, and I repacked them when I changed out of the cheapo
tires and into some Michelins last year. The bearings both showed galling
of
the cups in the pattern of roller contact, as if something happened to
corrode or pit them while the bearing was sitting. The rollers themselves
became discolored (heat?) but appeared smooth. Fortunately, the failure
mode
is gradual, and announced by enough noise that it is hard to miss the
problem
or to pull the wrong wheel looking for the culprit.
Should I be repacking every year?
Thanks, everybody.
Bill B
RV-6A
Message 16
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| Subject: | Superior XP-360 Oiling system changes (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
While at Sun N' Fun, I attended Superior's forum on the XP360. From what I learned
there, the engine sounds great.
Sunday afternoon, I stopped by the Superior tent. I asked the alleged (the guy's
lack of knowledge about his product bordered on criminal) salesman to show
me how and where Superior had modified the oiling system to achieve "balanced"
oil flow. The salesman attempted to explain the oiling system to me. It became
apparent to me within 30 seconds that this individual had no clue what he was
talking about.
I waited around and spoke to Superior's engineer when he came back to the tent.
While I waited, I tried to separate the display case halves in the tent. No
go, they were bolted together. I wanted to determine exactly WHAT Superior had
done to achieve their claim of "balanced" oiling.
By groping with my fingers, I was able to determine that all Superior had done,
was to move the oil source for the forward and middle camshaft journals from
the right side oil galley to the left side.
When the engineer returned, he confirmed this. I asked him if he was aware of
the complaints that Bill Marvel and Bill Scott had published regarding Lycoming's
oiling system. See
http://eaga.home.mindspring.com/valves.html
to get up to speed on this issue.
The engineer told me that it was after reading these articles, that he decided
to see if something could be done to improve the situation. I asked if Superior
had done any testing to verify that they had achieved a "balanced" oiling system
to the cylinder heads. He told me that they had NOT done any scientifically
accurate tests. They had simply removed the valve covers on the XP 360, run
the engine and collected the oil which drained out of the cylinder head area
into coffee cans. He stated that visually the flow appeared to be fairly equal.
They left it at that and did not do any further testing. I appreciate his honesty
and candor. However, his answer did not fill me with confidence.
It seems odd to me that a company would deviate from Lycoming's oiling system
based on Mr. Marvel's and Mr. Scott's testing. YET, not do verification testing
as detailed as Mr. Scott/Marvel did in the first place, to determine if the
modifications had succeeded. Superior seems to have used the TLAR (that looks
about right) method of verification testing.
The gentleman I spoke to (I've forgotten his name) told me that Superior's testing
of the 360 cu. in. Lycoming indicated that there was a fair amount of "pulsation"
of the oil pressure on the right side oil galley. He stated that the
modifications that Superior made, have improved this situation.
Would anyone with a flying XP-360 be willing to make their engine available to
Mr. Scott for verification testing? Would Misters Marvel and Scott be willing
to test Superior's claims?
For my own edification, this afternoon I examined the crankcases of my own O-360-A4K
engine. This is a 2nd design 360 crankcase (1978). I was told by my local
engine overhaul facility (AirMark at FXE) that Lycoming has since changed their
crankcase design again. (3rd generation).
My crankcase has oil feed holes to all 3 camshaft bearing surfaces originating
from the right side, as mentioned by Misters Scott and Marvel. My crankcase ALSO
has an oil feed hole supplying oil from the left crankcase half to the forward
most journal surface.
From this observation, there are only 2 differences between my Lycoming 2nd generation
crankcase set and Superior's new crankcase design. My #1 (forward most)
camshaft journal is oiled from both case halves. The Superior is oiled only
from the left. My #2 camshaft journal is oiled from the right. The Superior cases
supply oil only from the left. While I may be wrong, this minor change seems
insufficient to me, to create a "balanced" oiling system.
Tomorrow morning my friend Eric Hensen and I will continue our re-assembly of
his 1967 IO-320 engine. I will examine his oiling system very carefully. I want
to see if there are differences between my 1978 engine and his 1967 engine's
oiling system. I would also greatly appreciate it if anyone could enlighten me
as to any changes that Lycoming has made with it's 3rd generation crankcase
design. I would greatly appreciate the comments of all who can further enlighten
me on this subject.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit systems stuff
PS I had a great time volunteering at Sun N' Fun.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Prop test results posted |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
The RPM restrictions are listed in the Type Certificate Data Sheet No. P920 for
the Hartzell props.
For the O360-A1A and the Hartzell prop that Van's sells (I don't have the model
# handy) it says:
"Avoid continuous operation between 2000 and 2250 r.p.m."
This paper lists all the approved propeller-engine combinations and the restrictions
that apply to them.
Dave RV6, So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor/Flight Advisor
LeastDrag93066@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
> I didn't write 2200 to 2300 RPM. I wrote 2000 to 2300 RPM.
> I didn't write all Lycoming engines. I wrote Lycoming 360 engines with a undampened
crankshaft.
> (The second definition of dampen is to check or stop. So undampened is one possible
spelling.)
>
> It depends on the propellers response to the undampened crankshaft Lycoming 360
engine.
>
> The MT Propeller engine RPM restriction is 2050 to 2300 RPM.
> Applies to all Lycoming 360 engines with undampened crankshaft.
>
> There is NOT a midrange engine RPM restriction on Lycoming 360 engines with a
dampened crankshaft.
>
> Hartzell propellers respond diferently because of the difference in propeller
weight. I don't know the exact RPM range to avoid extended operation with that
propeller (other than somewhere between 2000 to 2300 RPM). It will be documented
for each certified engine/propeller combination.
>
> Jim Ayers
> EAA Flight Advisor
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: wheel bearing failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I'll be looking at replies to this one - my only experience is cars: You
don't put ANY "torque" on car wheel bearings, just hand tighten nut until
can't wiggle wheel/bearing assembly and then back off the smallest amount
possible to get the cotter pin in - never tighten to next cotter pin
alignment. Never had a bearing failure doing it that way.
- I have no idea how the A&Ps do it on airplanes - willing to learn.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: wheel bearing failures
> --> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
>
> Hmmm.. A French tire relying on a good 'ol American bearing. No doubt the
> underperfoming tire caused the premature failure of the bearing doing it's
> best (as usual) to carry the load!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SportAV8R@aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R@aol.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: wheel bearing failures
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Well, I pulled the wheel off and answered my own question: RV-6 wheel
> bearings are Timken part numbers 08125 (cone) and 08231 (cup). Found some
> on
> the internet for about 20 bucks a set, plus UPS. Ordered 2 sets so I'd
have
>
> a spare (and because the minimum order was $25).
>
> Research I just did in the Archives suggests the blue heavy duty lithium
> grease I just bought nd loaded into my new Lisle bearing packer may not be
> the best choice, so I may look for AeroShell #5 if it's available from my
> local Shell guy.
>
> My real concern is just what's going on here with my always-hangared
> airplane... two bearing failures in 280 hours... one was a nose wheel
> bearing
> at about 200 hrs, and now the outside left main. I don't think I am
> overtightening them, and I repacked them when I changed out of the cheapo
> tires and into some Michelins last year. The bearings both showed galling
> of
> the cups in the pattern of roller contact, as if something happened to
> corrode or pit them while the bearing was sitting. The rollers themselves
> became discolored (heat?) but appeared smooth. Fortunately, the failure
> mode
> is gradual, and announced by enough noise that it is hard to miss the
> problem
> or to pull the wrong wheel looking for the culprit.
>
> Should I be repacking every year?
>
> Thanks, everybody.
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: wheel bearing failures |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
HUMMMMM..... could it be the "wobble" of the tires pedigree, waving ones
hands over the head is a tough position to get anything constructive done.
Unless your trying to "be a tree". Do Not Archive. KABONG 8+)
----- Original Message -----
From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: wheel bearing failures
> --> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
>
> Hmmm.. A French tire relying on a good 'ol American bearing. No doubt the
Message 20
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| Subject: | RE: Prop test results posted |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>>>>>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rhett Westerman" <Rhettwesterman@cox.net>
Where does the info that all Lycoming undamped engines have this "minimun
time" between 2200 and 2300 RPM come from? Is this written someplace?
I have an 0-360 A1A with an MT Prop and there are no restrictions with the
combination.
<<<<<
I sent an email to MT a few weeks ago to ask about their prop restrictions.
Here is what they said (un-edited):
thank you for the interest in our product. For the RV8 with the
FADEC.controlled XP-360 engine we can inform you that our 3-bladed
composite propeller
MTV-12-B/183-59 has on the counter weighted IO-360 or O-360 no restricted
RPM. If you have a none counterweighted crankshaft we have a restricted RPM
for continuous operation between 2100 and 2300. There is no difference if
it is a FADEC controlled engine or not. Nevertheless with our composite
design you can use 2000 RPM and 22 MAP for economic cruising or all other
power settings like 2300 RPM and 23 MAP and so on.....
The only thing is therefore that you should take care if you have a
counterweighted or none-counterweighted engine. We prefer the
counterweighted engine because it is so much smoother and better for the
propeller.
With best regards,
MT - Propeller Entwicklung GmbH
Martin Albrecht
Engineering
-------------------------------
I sent the same query to Hartzell. Here is what they said (un-edited):
The only FADEC approval we have, to date, is on the Lycoming 360 engine.
We have not tested the new prop on the XP-360 with FADEC.
Here are the restrictions on the Lycoming FADEC.
Hartzell Propeller Model HC-C2YR-1BF/F7496 is satisfactory vibrationwise
mounted on Lycoming model IOF-360-A1A rated at 180 HP at 2700 RPM and equipped
with Aerosance FADEC engine control installed in Vans Aircraft Model RV-8 and
similar single engine tractor aircraft with the following operating
restrictions.
Do not operate above 22" manifold pressure below 2350 RPM.
Maximum engine RPM must be limited to 2650 RPM.
The propeller diameter limits are 74 to 72 inches.
Not sure when we will test the Superior engine with FADEC.
This prop is approved though on the "Stock" 180 HP 360 Superior engine.
Here are the restrictions on that engine prop combination.
Hartzell Propeller Model HC-C2YR-1BF/F7496 is satisfactory vibrationwise
mounted on Superior Air Parts model O-360-B1A2 and IO-360-B1A2 engines rated at
180 HP at 2700 RPM installed in Vans Model RV-6A and similar single engine
tractor aircraft with the following operating restrictions.
1. Continuous operation is prohibited above 22" manifold pressure between 2050
and 2200 RPM
2. Diameter range is 74" to 71"
Best Regards,
Brad Huelsman
http://tax.yahoo.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Electric Instruments For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com
I have three instruments available for an all-electric panel. Two of them
are new and have never been installed. I was told the third one (the DG) was
also new but it appears to have been installed however it is in new
condition. I got them with a project I bought and I've decided to install
the Blue Mountain EFIS so I no longer need them. All are 14v unlighted.
I will sell them for less than anyone in Trade-a-Plane and pay for insured
Fedex shipping. I will sell them as a group for even less.
I can send digital photos if desired. Send a cashiers check or I will ship
COD if the buyer is willing to pay the COD charges.
Instruments Available:
One RC Allen Attitude Indicator model RCA26AK-4
Aircraft Spruce - $1785
Chief (new surplus) - $1675
American - $1695
Gulf Coast - $1895
My Price - $1495 with free shipping
One RC Allen Directional Gyro model RCA15AK-2
Aircraft Spruce - $1695
Chief - $1689
American - $1425
Gulf Coast - $1895
My Price - $1195 with free shipping
One RC Allen Turn Coordinator model 82A-11
Aircraft Spruce - $483
Chief - $515
American - $495
My Price - $399 with free shipping
Buy all three for $2985.
The prices are a very good value and the instruments are new so please don't
call to haggle. Once the buyer receives the instruments I will accept them
back if shipped back within 2 days of delivery. If returned, shipping is at
buyers expense and I will deduct my shipping costs from the amount paid. The
buyer will need to call me if returning an instrument. If all are purchased
for $2985, then all must be returned if any is returned. In other words, you
can't buy all three and then return only one.
Don't respond on Matronics - contact me via email at "Speedy11@aol.com" or by
phone at 813-318-9074 or 813-732-7369.
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
RV-8A QB
Message 22
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| Subject: | Stripped axle/nut |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Now I've done it...
Tonight I was installing the landing gear on my RV-7, and all was going well
until the very last step...drilling the cotter pin hole in the 2nd axle (the
first one went fine!).
The problem is that I center-punched the hole in the axle, but as soon as I
started turning the axle nut it got stiff real quick. I'm not sure if the
axle nut is totally stripped (turning without engaging) or just badly
stripped, but I'm having a heck of a time getting it off. I need to go snag
a big socket and see, I guess.
But my questions are:
- Has this happened to anybody before? I didn't see anything about it in
the archives, so I'm probably the first bonehead to do this. I'm curious if
there are any tricks for getting the nut (probably stripped) off the axle
without cutting it off, or worse...ordering a new gear leg! Is there any
hope?
- I must have punched too hard or too deep or something, damaging the
threads just enough to screw it all up. What's the proper technique for
doing this (punching/marking the axle for drilling) without causing major
damage? The instructions say to center punch it.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Instruments For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
One other question, Are the instruments tilted 8degfor use in an RV?
Thanks,
ned
----- Original Message -----
From: <Speedy11@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Electric Instruments For Sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com
>
> I have three instruments available for an all-electric panel. Two of them
> are new and have never been installed. I was told the third one (the DG)
was
> also new but it appears to have been installed however it is in new
> condition. I got them with a project I bought and I've decided to install
> the Blue Mountain EFIS so I no longer need them. All are 14v unlighted.
>
> I will sell them for less than anyone in Trade-a-Plane and pay for insured
> Fedex shipping. I will sell them as a group for even less.
>
> I can send digital photos if desired. Send a cashiers check or I will
ship
> COD if the buyer is willing to pay the COD charges.
>
> Instruments Available:
> One RC Allen Attitude Indicator model RCA26AK-4
> Aircraft Spruce - $1785
> Chief (new surplus) - $1675
> American - $1695
> Gulf Coast - $1895
> My Price - $1495 with free shipping
>
> One RC Allen Directional Gyro model RCA15AK-2
> Aircraft Spruce - $1695
> Chief - $1689
> American - $1425
> Gulf Coast - $1895
> My Price - $1195 with free shipping
>
> One RC Allen Turn Coordinator model 82A-11
> Aircraft Spruce - $483
> Chief - $515
> American - $495
> My Price - $399 with free shipping
>
> Buy all three for $2985.
>
> The prices are a very good value and the instruments are new so please
don't
> call to haggle. Once the buyer receives the instruments I will accept
them
> back if shipped back within 2 days of delivery. If returned, shipping is
at
> buyers expense and I will deduct my shipping costs from the amount paid.
The
> buyer will need to call me if returning an instrument. If all are
purchased
> for $2985, then all must be returned if any is returned. In other words,
you
> can't buy all three and then return only one.
>
> Don't respond on Matronics - contact me via email at "Speedy11@aol.com" or
by
> phone at 813-318-9074 or 813-732-7369.
>
> Stan Sutterfield
> Tampa, FL
> RV-8A QB
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Got the axle nut off...disregard previous message |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I got the nut off...
Home Depot didn't have a 1.5" socket, but I figured out a method anyway --
with the gear leg removed, I clamped the axle nut in my bench vise and used
the gear leg as a giant breaker bar. Fortunately the nut was still engaging
(or rather *cutting*) threads. So now the nut is off, the wheel is
off...phew!
But now I need to tap or thread-file the axle to repair it, since the
threads are chewed up a bit. I'll obviously get a new axle nut. Anybody
know where you can get/borrow a tap for these axle threads?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Stripped axle/nut
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Now I've done it...
>
> Tonight I was installing the landing gear on my RV-7, and all was going
well
> until the very last step...drilling the cotter pin hole in the 2nd axle
(the
> first one went fine!).
>
> The problem is that I center-punched the hole in the axle, but as soon as
I
> started turning the axle nut it got stiff real quick. I'm not sure if the
> axle nut is totally stripped (turning without engaging) or just badly
> stripped, but I'm having a heck of a time getting it off. I need to go
snag
> a big socket and see, I guess.
>
> But my questions are:
>
> - Has this happened to anybody before? I didn't see anything about it in
> the archives, so I'm probably the first bonehead to do this. I'm curious
if
> there are any tricks for getting the nut (probably stripped) off the axle
> without cutting it off, or worse...ordering a new gear leg! Is there any
> hope?
>
> - I must have punched too hard or too deep or something, damaging the
> threads just enough to screw it all up. What's the proper technique for
> doing this (punching/marking the axle for drilling) without causing major
> damage? The instructions say to center punch it.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
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