---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 04/09/03: 24 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 07:04 AM - Re: Re:Sealing Fuel Tanks (Elsa & Henry) 2. 07:04 AM - Re: T & W Propeller notice (Bill Dube) 3. 07:22 AM - Rivet cutter on E bay (Bill Dube) 4. 07:27 AM - Re: Re:Sealing Fuel Tanks (Scott Vanartsdalen) 5. 10:54 AM - Re: RV Grin (Terry Watson) 6. 11:09 AM - Subcommittee on Aviation (Bill VonDane) 7. 11:37 AM - Re: RV Grin (Rob Prior) 8. 11:38 AM - Re: RV Grin (Chris W) 9. 12:27 PM - wheel bearing failures (SportAV8R@aol.com) 10. 12:56 PM - Re: RV Grin (Larry Bowen) 11. 01:50 PM - Re: RV Grin (Elsa & Henry) 12. 02:00 PM - Re: wheel bearing failures (Cy Galley) 13. 02:49 PM - Re: Prop test results posted (LeastDrag93066@aol.com) 14. 03:01 PM - Re: RV Grin (Rick Galati) 15. 03:32 PM - Re: wheel bearing failures (van Bladeren, Ron) 16. 04:29 PM - Superior XP-360 Oiling system changes (long) (Charlie Kuss) 17. 05:52 PM - Re: Prop test results posted (Dave Bristol) 18. 06:11 PM - Re: wheel bearing failures (David Carter) 19. 06:18 PM - Re: wheel bearing failures (John Starn) 20. 07:04 PM - Re: Prop test results posted (Geoff Evans) 21. 08:40 PM - Electric Instruments For Sale (Speedy11@aol.com) 22. 09:26 PM - Stripped axle/nut (Dan Checkoway) 23. 10:24 PM - Re: Electric Instruments For Sale () 24. 10:57 PM - Got the axle nut off...disregard previous message (Dan Checkoway) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 07:04:04 AM PST US From: "Elsa & Henry" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Sealing Fuel Tanks --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" Got to agree with Bob Olds post on the subject. Sometime before I started building my tanks in 1996, I read an article by Van in an RVator on sealing them and he stated that if you use Pro-seal "sparingly" you should be able to get by with one can of it. My reaction was "I don't want to use it sparingly!! I'll use what it takes!" After riveting the ribs in and letting the pro-seal cure for a day I applied a second coat over the seams and rivet heads essentially coating the rib's and stiffener's flanges.That would cover any pin-holes in the first coat. I used 1 1/3 quarts of proseal. No Leaks! Cheers!! ---Henry Hore ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:04:15 AM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: Re: RV-List: T & W Propeller notice --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube At 10:38 PM 4/8/2003, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Kunkel" > >Here's the first fall-out about this. Such a criminal shame!!! > >http://www.ntsb.gov/NTSB/brief.asp?ev_id=20030206X00174&key=1 The phrase "reckless endangerment" comes to mind. Someone should do some jail time, if there is any justice in the world. My primary motivation for building my own airplane is to be able to do my own maintenance on my own plane. Slipshod and negligent maintenance have caused me a number of tense moments and a couple of official emergencies in rental aircraft. On a rental 172, I had the oil temperature peg AND the oil pressure go deep into the red and stay there while I nursed the plane back to the ground. The last straw was when the FBO said, "Yeah, we know. That one just runs hot. Don't worry about it." ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:22:29 AM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: RV-List: Rivet cutter on E bay --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2521019602 Nice rivet cutter on E bay. Two days left. No one bidding. $2.99 plus $5.95 S+H. Not clearly listed so it will likely be a bargain. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:27:15 AM PST US From: Scott Vanartsdalen Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Sealing Fuel Tanks --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen I have to agree too. I went with Van's recommendations and now I have two leaky tanks. Now I'm heading for the store to buy some green loc-tite. Elsa & Henry wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" Got to agree with Bob Olds post on the subject. Sometime before I started building my tanks in 1996, I read an article by Van in an RVator on sealing them and he stated that if you use Pro-seal "sparingly" you should be able to get by with one can of it. My reaction was "I don't want to use it sparingly!! I'll use what it takes!" After riveting the ribs in and letting the pro-seal cure for a day I applied a second coat over the seams and rivet heads essentially coating the rib's and stiffener's flanges.That would cover any pin-holes in the first coat. I used 1 1/3 quarts of proseal. No Leaks! Cheers!! ---Henry Hore -- For God says, "At just the right time, I heard you. On the day of salvation, I helped you." Indeed, God is ready to help you right now. Today is the day of salvation. 2 Corinthians 6:2, New Living Translation --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:54:36 AM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Grin --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Rick, I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for information about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a competing Yahoo RV-8 list. It is necessary to subscribe to both to keep up with what's happening with RV-8's. Many but not all RV-8 builders and flyers subscribe to both, so many post the same message on both lists, and some also copy that to the RV list. I don't know how active the RV-3, 6, 7 & 9 lists are, but much of the information overlaps between models of RVs. Lists are great ways to keep up with information, but I don't understand the need to fragment RV information even more. Terry Subject: RV-List: RV Grin --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati Listers, I initiated a new Yahoo group dedicated to RV information sharing with the goal of exchanging RV information with one another in as short a time as possible. Intended only to broaden and promote the RV experience, the success of this Yahoo group forum will be based entirely upon the support (or die for the lack thereof ) of those interested souls who choose to participate. The only intent of the "RV Grin" is to offer an alternative open forum for the free and open distribution of thoughts and ideas relative to the RV experience. If you are of a mind, check out and participate in this brand new Yahoo group dedicated to RV'ers everywhere. We are starting with a blank page and it is entirely up to the like-minded to fill in the blanks and make the "Grin" an agreeable if alternative RV web site. Rick Galati http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rvgrin/ ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:09:12 AM PST US From: "Bill VonDane" , "vansairforce" Subject: RV-List: Subcommittee on Aviation --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" I case anyone is interested in hearing Phil Boyer address congress regarding the Meigs issue: http://www.house.gov/transportation/audio/ do not archive ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:37:44 AM PST US From: Rob Prior Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Grin --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior Fragmenting RV information? Believe it or not, it's possible to build absolutely stunning RV's without access to *any* email lists... 8-) Join the groups you want, skip the ones you don't. Personally I only read the Matronics RV- and RV7-Lists, but I know there are lots of other Matronics and Yahoo groups out there. -RB4 Terry Watson wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" > > Rick, > > I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a > negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for information > about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a competing Yahoo RV-8 > list. It is necessary to subscribe to both to keep up with what's happening > with RV-8's. Many but not all RV-8 builders and flyers subscribe to both, > so many post the same message on both lists, and some also copy that to the > RV list. I don't know how active the RV-3, 6, 7 & 9 lists are, but much of > the information overlaps between models of RVs. Lists are great ways to keep > up with information, but I don't understand the need to fragment RV > information even more. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:38:28 AM PST US From: Chris W Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Grin --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W Knowing what I know now, I would have to agree. I was once subscribed to 12 different RV lists now I am down to 6 I think maybe 5. Unless someone can give me a good reason for another one that I can't think of. BTW for those of you who don't already know what the lists are. RV-3,4,6,7,8,9,10 as well as a general RV-whatever list on both Yahoo and matronics.com That's a lot of rv lists with at least 4 being applicable no matter what plane you are building or planing on building. Terry Watson wrote: > --? RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" ?terry@tcwatson.com? > > Rick, > > I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a > negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for information > about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a competing Yahoo RV-8 > list. It is necessary to subscribe to both to keep up with what's happening > with RV-8's. Many but not all RV-8 builders and flyers subscribe to both, > so many post the same message on both lists, and some also copy that to the > RV list. I don't know how active the RV-3, 6, 7 ? 9 lists are, but much of > the information overlaps between models of RVs. Lists are great ways to keep > up with information, but I don't understand the need to fragment RV > information even more. > > Terry > > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RV Grin > > --? RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati ?rick6a@yahoo.com? > > Listers, > > I initiated a new Yahoo group dedicated to RV information sharing with the > goal of exchanging RV information with one another in as short a time as > possible. Intended only to broaden and promote the RV experience, the > success of this Yahoo group forum will be based entirely upon the support > (or die for the lack thereof ) of those interested souls who choose to > participate. The only intent of the "RV Grin" is to offer an alternative > open forum for the free and open distribution of thoughts and ideas relative > to the RV experience. If you are of a mind, check out and participate in > this brand new Yahoo group dedicated to RV'ers everywhere. We are starting > with a blank page and it is entirely up to the like-minded to fill in the > blanks and make the "Grin" an agreeable if alternative RV web site. > > Rick Galati > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rvgrin/ > -- Chris Woodhouse 3147 SW 127th St. Oklahoma City, OK 73170 405-691-5206 chrisw@programmer.net N35? 20.492' W97? 34.342' "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:27:22 PM PST US From: SportAV8R@aol.com Subject: RV-List: wheel bearing failures --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com Well, I pulled the wheel off and answered my own question: RV-6 wheel bearings are Timken part numbers 08125 (cone) and 08231 (cup). Found some on the internet for about 20 bucks a set, plus UPS. Ordered 2 sets so I'd have a spare (and because the minimum order was $25). Research I just did in the Archives suggests the blue heavy duty lithium grease I just bought nd loaded into my new Lisle bearing packer may not be the best choice, so I may look for AeroShell #5 if it's available from my local Shell guy. My real concern is just what's going on here with my always-hangared airplane... two bearing failures in 280 hours... one was a nose wheel bearing at about 200 hrs, and now the outside left main. I don't think I am overtightening them, and I repacked them when I changed out of the cheapo tires and into some Michelins last year. The bearings both showed galling of the cups in the pattern of roller contact, as if something happened to corrode or pit them while the bearing was sitting. The rollers themselves became discolored (heat?) but appeared smooth. Fortunately, the failure mode is gradual, and announced by enough noise that it is hard to miss the problem or to pull the wrong wheel looking for the culprit. Should I be repacking every year? Thanks, everybody. Bill B RV-6A ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:56:48 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Grin From: "Larry Bowen" --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" Exactly. Remember the good 'ol days when there was just one list? One place to look for the answer. There are too many now. -- Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com 2003: The Year of Flight! do not archive Terry Watson said: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" > > Rick, > > I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a > negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for > information about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a > competing Yahoo RV-8 list. It is necessary to subscribe to both to keep > up with what's happening with RV-8's. Many but not all RV-8 builders > and flyers subscribe to both, so many post the same message on both > lists, and some also copy that to the RV list. I don't know how active > the RV-3, 6, 7 & 9 lists are, but much of the information overlaps > between models of RVs. Lists are great ways to keep up with information, > but I don't understand the need to fragment RV information even more. > > Terry > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RV Grin > > --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > > Listers, > > I initiated a new Yahoo group dedicated to RV information sharing with > the goal of exchanging RV information with one another in as short a > time as possible. Intended only to broaden and promote the RV > experience, the success of this Yahoo group forum will be based entirely > upon the support (or die for the lack thereof ) of those interested > souls who choose to participate. The only intent of the "RV Grin" is to > offer an alternative open forum for the free and open distribution of > thoughts and ideas relative to the RV experience. If you are of a mind, > check out and participate in this brand new Yahoo group dedicated to > RV'ers everywhere. We are starting with a blank page and it is entirely > up to the like-minded to fill in the blanks and make the "Grin" an > agreeable if alternative RV web site. > > Rick Galati > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rvgrin/ ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:50:09 PM PST US From: "Elsa & Henry" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Grin --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" Pursuant to Rob Prior's post, I only joined the one and only list (this one) six months after the first flight of my RV6-A. I was told about this list by my hangar mate (not RV) and I joined last November for pure interest and provide comments on things where IMHO I could help out. There was only one RV being built in my area and that was~100 miles away and its progress was behind mine. The only pre-punched holes were in the wing skins and I was one of the first to purchase that option in 1994. Otherwise it was sweated out! Cheers!!----Henry Hore ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 02:00:15 PM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: wheel bearing failures --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" Wheel bearings should be re-packed every year. You may be over tightening the axle nut. It should be just snugged up and then backed off until the wheel turns free with out any play. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: wheel bearing failures > --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com > > Well, I pulled the wheel off and answered my own question: RV-6 wheel > bearings are Timken part numbers 08125 (cone) and 08231 (cup). Found some on > the internet for about 20 bucks a set, plus UPS. Ordered 2 sets so I'd have > a spare (and because the minimum order was $25). > > Research I just did in the Archives suggests the blue heavy duty lithium > grease I just bought nd loaded into my new Lisle bearing packer may not be > the best choice, so I may look for AeroShell #5 if it's available from my > local Shell guy. > > My real concern is just what's going on here with my always-hangared > airplane... two bearing failures in 280 hours... one was a nose wheel bearing > at about 200 hrs, and now the outside left main. I don't think I am > overtightening them, and I repacked them when I changed out of the cheapo > tires and into some Michelins last year. The bearings both showed galling of > the cups in the pattern of roller contact, as if something happened to > corrode or pit them while the bearing was sitting. The rollers themselves > became discolored (heat?) but appeared smooth. Fortunately, the failure mode > is gradual, and announced by enough noise that it is hard to miss the problem > or to pull the wrong wheel looking for the culprit. > > Should I be repacking every year? > > Thanks, everybody. > > Bill B > RV-6A > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 02:49:07 PM PST US From: LeastDrag93066@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop test results posted --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com I didn't write 2200 to 2300 RPM. I wrote 2000 to 2300 RPM. I didn't write all Lycoming engines. I wrote Lycoming 360 engines with a undampened crankshaft. (The second definition of dampen is to check or stop. So undampened is one possible spelling.) It depends on the propellers response to the undampened crankshaft Lycoming 360 engine. The MT Propeller engine RPM restriction is 2050 to 2300 RPM. Applies to all Lycoming 360 engines with undampened crankshaft. There is NOT a midrange engine RPM restriction on Lycoming 360 engines with a dampened crankshaft. Hartzell propellers respond diferently because of the difference in propeller weight. I don't know the exact RPM range to avoid extended operation with that propeller (other than somewhere between 2000 to 2300 RPM). It will be documented for each certified engine/propeller combination. Jim Ayers EAA Flight Advisor ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 03:01:15 PM PST US From: Rick Galati Subject: RV-List: Re: RV Grin --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati Terry and others, One complaint I note is that some people from time to time grow frustrated with the delays inherent in some moderated groups. The RV Grin forum was started for one reason. When someone chooses to post a question or comment, it gets posted NOW. I do not believe that a group dedicated to all-encompassing RV information will cause undue fragmentation, certainly far less than the 3,4,6,7,8,9,10 or even 11 model groups do now, on the various lists such as they are. If you want to visit the RV Grin and participate, fine. If not, that is most certainly your prerogative. I have simply prepared a room. That's all. Now as you probably now, Yahoo groups come and go all the time. And this group, like any other will succeed or fail based entirely on the active participation it gets. Anyway, it should come as no surprise that many RV builders do not subscribe to this list or any other for that matter. Still others do not rely on any single list to be their sole source of informal RV information. And new people do get a builders number every day, the RV family is growing, now more than ever. I only provided a new room addition, and with it the promise of a faster potential response time for its users. Only time will tell if this new group will be accepted. Its just a simple idea and I gave it a shot. Either way, I know I did what I could to happily promote the best airplane available to the average homebuilder at any price. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rvgrin/ Rick I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a > negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for > information about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a > competing Yahoo RV-8 list. ........ Lists are great ways to keep up with information, but I don't understand the need to fragment RV information even more. > Terry --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:32:41 PM PST US From: "van Bladeren, Ron" Subject: RE: RV-List: wheel bearing failures --> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" Hmmm.. A French tire relying on a good 'ol American bearing. No doubt the underperfoming tire caused the premature failure of the bearing doing it's best (as usual) to carry the load! -----Original Message----- From: SportAV8R@aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R@aol.com] Subject: RV-List: wheel bearing failures --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com Well, I pulled the wheel off and answered my own question: RV-6 wheel bearings are Timken part numbers 08125 (cone) and 08231 (cup). Found some on the internet for about 20 bucks a set, plus UPS. Ordered 2 sets so I'd have a spare (and because the minimum order was $25). Research I just did in the Archives suggests the blue heavy duty lithium grease I just bought nd loaded into my new Lisle bearing packer may not be the best choice, so I may look for AeroShell #5 if it's available from my local Shell guy. My real concern is just what's going on here with my always-hangared airplane... two bearing failures in 280 hours... one was a nose wheel bearing at about 200 hrs, and now the outside left main. I don't think I am overtightening them, and I repacked them when I changed out of the cheapo tires and into some Michelins last year. The bearings both showed galling of the cups in the pattern of roller contact, as if something happened to corrode or pit them while the bearing was sitting. The rollers themselves became discolored (heat?) but appeared smooth. Fortunately, the failure mode is gradual, and announced by enough noise that it is hard to miss the problem or to pull the wrong wheel looking for the culprit. Should I be repacking every year? Thanks, everybody. Bill B RV-6A ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:29:30 PM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: RV-List: Superior XP-360 Oiling system changes (long) --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss While at Sun N' Fun, I attended Superior's forum on the XP360. From what I learned there, the engine sounds great. Sunday afternoon, I stopped by the Superior tent. I asked the alleged (the guy's lack of knowledge about his product bordered on criminal) salesman to show me how and where Superior had modified the oiling system to achieve "balanced" oil flow. The salesman attempted to explain the oiling system to me. It became apparent to me within 30 seconds that this individual had no clue what he was talking about. I waited around and spoke to Superior's engineer when he came back to the tent. While I waited, I tried to separate the display case halves in the tent. No go, they were bolted together. I wanted to determine exactly WHAT Superior had done to achieve their claim of "balanced" oiling. By groping with my fingers, I was able to determine that all Superior had done, was to move the oil source for the forward and middle camshaft journals from the right side oil galley to the left side. When the engineer returned, he confirmed this. I asked him if he was aware of the complaints that Bill Marvel and Bill Scott had published regarding Lycoming's oiling system. See http://eaga.home.mindspring.com/valves.html to get up to speed on this issue. The engineer told me that it was after reading these articles, that he decided to see if something could be done to improve the situation. I asked if Superior had done any testing to verify that they had achieved a "balanced" oiling system to the cylinder heads. He told me that they had NOT done any scientifically accurate tests. They had simply removed the valve covers on the XP 360, run the engine and collected the oil which drained out of the cylinder head area into coffee cans. He stated that visually the flow appeared to be fairly equal. They left it at that and did not do any further testing. I appreciate his honesty and candor. However, his answer did not fill me with confidence. It seems odd to me that a company would deviate from Lycoming's oiling system based on Mr. Marvel's and Mr. Scott's testing. YET, not do verification testing as detailed as Mr. Scott/Marvel did in the first place, to determine if the modifications had succeeded. Superior seems to have used the TLAR (that looks about right) method of verification testing. The gentleman I spoke to (I've forgotten his name) told me that Superior's testing of the 360 cu. in. Lycoming indicated that there was a fair amount of "pulsation" of the oil pressure on the right side oil galley. He stated that the modifications that Superior made, have improved this situation. Would anyone with a flying XP-360 be willing to make their engine available to Mr. Scott for verification testing? Would Misters Marvel and Scott be willing to test Superior's claims? For my own edification, this afternoon I examined the crankcases of my own O-360-A4K engine. This is a 2nd design 360 crankcase (1978). I was told by my local engine overhaul facility (AirMark at FXE) that Lycoming has since changed their crankcase design again. (3rd generation). My crankcase has oil feed holes to all 3 camshaft bearing surfaces originating from the right side, as mentioned by Misters Scott and Marvel. My crankcase ALSO has an oil feed hole supplying oil from the left crankcase half to the forward most journal surface. From this observation, there are only 2 differences between my Lycoming 2nd generation crankcase set and Superior's new crankcase design. My #1 (forward most) camshaft journal is oiled from both case halves. The Superior is oiled only from the left. My #2 camshaft journal is oiled from the right. The Superior cases supply oil only from the left. While I may be wrong, this minor change seems insufficient to me, to create a "balanced" oiling system. Tomorrow morning my friend Eric Hensen and I will continue our re-assembly of his 1967 IO-320 engine. I will examine his oiling system very carefully. I want to see if there are differences between my 1978 engine and his 1967 engine's oiling system. I would also greatly appreciate it if anyone could enlighten me as to any changes that Lycoming has made with it's 3rd generation crankcase design. I would greatly appreciate the comments of all who can further enlighten me on this subject. Charlie Kuss RV-8A cockpit systems stuff PS I had a great time volunteering at Sun N' Fun. ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 05:52:00 PM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop test results posted --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol The RPM restrictions are listed in the Type Certificate Data Sheet No. P920 for the Hartzell props. For the O360-A1A and the Hartzell prop that Van's sells (I don't have the model # handy) it says: "Avoid continuous operation between 2000 and 2250 r.p.m." This paper lists all the approved propeller-engine combinations and the restrictions that apply to them. Dave RV6, So Cal EAA Technical Counselor/Flight Advisor LeastDrag93066@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com > > I didn't write 2200 to 2300 RPM. I wrote 2000 to 2300 RPM. > I didn't write all Lycoming engines. I wrote Lycoming 360 engines with a undampened crankshaft. > (The second definition of dampen is to check or stop. So undampened is one possible spelling.) > > It depends on the propellers response to the undampened crankshaft Lycoming 360 engine. > > The MT Propeller engine RPM restriction is 2050 to 2300 RPM. > Applies to all Lycoming 360 engines with undampened crankshaft. > > There is NOT a midrange engine RPM restriction on Lycoming 360 engines with a dampened crankshaft. > > Hartzell propellers respond diferently because of the difference in propeller weight. I don't know the exact RPM range to avoid extended operation with that propeller (other than somewhere between 2000 to 2300 RPM). It will be documented for each certified engine/propeller combination. > > Jim Ayers > EAA Flight Advisor > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 06:11:26 PM PST US From: "David Carter" Subject: Re: RV-List: wheel bearing failures --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" I'll be looking at replies to this one - my only experience is cars: You don't put ANY "torque" on car wheel bearings, just hand tighten nut until can't wiggle wheel/bearing assembly and then back off the smallest amount possible to get the cotter pin in - never tighten to next cotter pin alignment. Never had a bearing failure doing it that way. - I have no idea how the A&Ps do it on airplanes - willing to learn. David ----- Original Message ----- From: "van Bladeren, Ron" Subject: RE: RV-List: wheel bearing failures > --> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" > > Hmmm.. A French tire relying on a good 'ol American bearing. No doubt the > underperfoming tire caused the premature failure of the bearing doing it's > best (as usual) to carry the load! > > -----Original Message----- > From: SportAV8R@aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R@aol.com] > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: wheel bearing failures > > > --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com > > Well, I pulled the wheel off and answered my own question: RV-6 wheel > bearings are Timken part numbers 08125 (cone) and 08231 (cup). Found some > on > the internet for about 20 bucks a set, plus UPS. Ordered 2 sets so I'd have > > a spare (and because the minimum order was $25). > > Research I just did in the Archives suggests the blue heavy duty lithium > grease I just bought nd loaded into my new Lisle bearing packer may not be > the best choice, so I may look for AeroShell #5 if it's available from my > local Shell guy. > > My real concern is just what's going on here with my always-hangared > airplane... two bearing failures in 280 hours... one was a nose wheel > bearing > at about 200 hrs, and now the outside left main. I don't think I am > overtightening them, and I repacked them when I changed out of the cheapo > tires and into some Michelins last year. The bearings both showed galling > of > the cups in the pattern of roller contact, as if something happened to > corrode or pit them while the bearing was sitting. The rollers themselves > became discolored (heat?) but appeared smooth. Fortunately, the failure > mode > is gradual, and announced by enough noise that it is hard to miss the > problem > or to pull the wrong wheel looking for the culprit. > > Should I be repacking every year? > > Thanks, everybody. > > Bill B > RV-6A > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 06:18:19 PM PST US From: "John Starn" Subject: Re: RV-List: wheel bearing failures --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" HUMMMMM..... could it be the "wobble" of the tires pedigree, waving ones hands over the head is a tough position to get anything constructive done. Unless your trying to "be a tree". Do Not Archive. KABONG 8+) ----- Original Message ----- From: "van Bladeren, Ron" Subject: RE: RV-List: wheel bearing failures > --> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" > > Hmmm.. A French tire relying on a good 'ol American bearing. No doubt the ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:04:23 PM PST US From: Geoff Evans Subject: RV-List: RE: Prop test results posted --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans >>>>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rhett Westerman" Where does the info that all Lycoming undamped engines have this "minimun time" between 2200 and 2300 RPM come from? Is this written someplace? I have an 0-360 A1A with an MT Prop and there are no restrictions with the combination. <<<<< I sent an email to MT a few weeks ago to ask about their prop restrictions. Here is what they said (un-edited): thank you for the interest in our product. For the RV8 with the FADEC.controlled XP-360 engine we can inform you that our 3-bladed composite propeller MTV-12-B/183-59 has on the counter weighted IO-360 or O-360 no restricted RPM. If you have a none counterweighted crankshaft we have a restricted RPM for continuous operation between 2100 and 2300. There is no difference if it is a FADEC controlled engine or not. Nevertheless with our composite design you can use 2000 RPM and 22 MAP for economic cruising or all other power settings like 2300 RPM and 23 MAP and so on..... The only thing is therefore that you should take care if you have a counterweighted or none-counterweighted engine. We prefer the counterweighted engine because it is so much smoother and better for the propeller. With best regards, MT - Propeller Entwicklung GmbH Martin Albrecht Engineering ------------------------------- I sent the same query to Hartzell. Here is what they said (un-edited): The only FADEC approval we have, to date, is on the Lycoming 360 engine. We have not tested the new prop on the XP-360 with FADEC. Here are the restrictions on the Lycoming FADEC. Hartzell Propeller Model HC-C2YR-1BF/F7496 is satisfactory vibrationwise mounted on Lycoming model IOF-360-A1A rated at 180 HP at 2700 RPM and equipped with Aerosance FADEC engine control installed in Vans Aircraft Model RV-8 and similar single engine tractor aircraft with the following operating restrictions. Do not operate above 22" manifold pressure below 2350 RPM. Maximum engine RPM must be limited to 2650 RPM. The propeller diameter limits are 74 to 72 inches. Not sure when we will test the Superior engine with FADEC. This prop is approved though on the "Stock" 180 HP 360 Superior engine. Here are the restrictions on that engine prop combination. Hartzell Propeller Model HC-C2YR-1BF/F7496 is satisfactory vibrationwise mounted on Superior Air Parts model O-360-B1A2 and IO-360-B1A2 engines rated at 180 HP at 2700 RPM installed in Vans Model RV-6A and similar single engine tractor aircraft with the following operating restrictions. 1. Continuous operation is prohibited above 22" manifold pressure between 2050 and 2200 RPM 2. Diameter range is 74" to 71" Best Regards, Brad Huelsman http://tax.yahoo.com ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 08:40:03 PM PST US From: Speedy11@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Electric Instruments For Sale --> RV-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com I have three instruments available for an all-electric panel. Two of them are new and have never been installed. I was told the third one (the DG) was also new but it appears to have been installed however it is in new condition. I got them with a project I bought and I've decided to install the Blue Mountain EFIS so I no longer need them. All are 14v unlighted. I will sell them for less than anyone in Trade-a-Plane and pay for insured Fedex shipping. I will sell them as a group for even less. I can send digital photos if desired. Send a cashiers check or I will ship COD if the buyer is willing to pay the COD charges. Instruments Available: One RC Allen Attitude Indicator model RCA26AK-4 Aircraft Spruce - $1785 Chief (new surplus) - $1675 American - $1695 Gulf Coast - $1895 My Price - $1495 with free shipping One RC Allen Directional Gyro model RCA15AK-2 Aircraft Spruce - $1695 Chief - $1689 American - $1425 Gulf Coast - $1895 My Price - $1195 with free shipping One RC Allen Turn Coordinator model 82A-11 Aircraft Spruce - $483 Chief - $515 American - $495 My Price - $399 with free shipping Buy all three for $2985. The prices are a very good value and the instruments are new so please don't call to haggle. Once the buyer receives the instruments I will accept them back if shipped back within 2 days of delivery. If returned, shipping is at buyers expense and I will deduct my shipping costs from the amount paid. The buyer will need to call me if returning an instrument. If all are purchased for $2985, then all must be returned if any is returned. In other words, you can't buy all three and then return only one. Don't respond on Matronics - contact me via email at "Speedy11@aol.com" or by phone at 813-318-9074 or 813-732-7369. Stan Sutterfield Tampa, FL RV-8A QB ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 09:26:23 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: Stripped axle/nut --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Now I've done it... Tonight I was installing the landing gear on my RV-7, and all was going well until the very last step...drilling the cotter pin hole in the 2nd axle (the first one went fine!). The problem is that I center-punched the hole in the axle, but as soon as I started turning the axle nut it got stiff real quick. I'm not sure if the axle nut is totally stripped (turning without engaging) or just badly stripped, but I'm having a heck of a time getting it off. I need to go snag a big socket and see, I guess. But my questions are: - Has this happened to anybody before? I didn't see anything about it in the archives, so I'm probably the first bonehead to do this. I'm curious if there are any tricks for getting the nut (probably stripped) off the axle without cutting it off, or worse...ordering a new gear leg! Is there any hope? - I must have punched too hard or too deep or something, damaging the threads just enough to screw it all up. What's the proper technique for doing this (punching/marking the axle for drilling) without causing major damage? The instructions say to center punch it. Thanks in advance, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (finish) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 10:24:27 PM PST US From: <315@cox.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric Instruments For Sale --> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net> One other question, Are the instruments tilted 8degfor use in an RV? Thanks, ned ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Electric Instruments For Sale > --> RV-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com > > I have three instruments available for an all-electric panel. Two of them > are new and have never been installed. I was told the third one (the DG) was > also new but it appears to have been installed however it is in new > condition. I got them with a project I bought and I've decided to install > the Blue Mountain EFIS so I no longer need them. All are 14v unlighted. > > I will sell them for less than anyone in Trade-a-Plane and pay for insured > Fedex shipping. I will sell them as a group for even less. > > I can send digital photos if desired. Send a cashiers check or I will ship > COD if the buyer is willing to pay the COD charges. > > Instruments Available: > One RC Allen Attitude Indicator model RCA26AK-4 > Aircraft Spruce - $1785 > Chief (new surplus) - $1675 > American - $1695 > Gulf Coast - $1895 > My Price - $1495 with free shipping > > One RC Allen Directional Gyro model RCA15AK-2 > Aircraft Spruce - $1695 > Chief - $1689 > American - $1425 > Gulf Coast - $1895 > My Price - $1195 with free shipping > > One RC Allen Turn Coordinator model 82A-11 > Aircraft Spruce - $483 > Chief - $515 > American - $495 > My Price - $399 with free shipping > > Buy all three for $2985. > > The prices are a very good value and the instruments are new so please don't > call to haggle. Once the buyer receives the instruments I will accept them > back if shipped back within 2 days of delivery. If returned, shipping is at > buyers expense and I will deduct my shipping costs from the amount paid. The > buyer will need to call me if returning an instrument. If all are purchased > for $2985, then all must be returned if any is returned. In other words, you > can't buy all three and then return only one. > > Don't respond on Matronics - contact me via email at "Speedy11@aol.com" or by > phone at 813-318-9074 or 813-732-7369. > > Stan Sutterfield > Tampa, FL > RV-8A QB > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 10:57:13 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: Got the axle nut off...disregard previous message --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I got the nut off... Home Depot didn't have a 1.5" socket, but I figured out a method anyway -- with the gear leg removed, I clamped the axle nut in my bench vise and used the gear leg as a giant breaker bar. Fortunately the nut was still engaging (or rather *cutting*) threads. So now the nut is off, the wheel is off...phew! But now I need to tap or thread-file the axle to repair it, since the threads are chewed up a bit. I'll obviously get a new axle nut. Anybody know where you can get/borrow a tap for these axle threads? )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (finish) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: Stripped axle/nut > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > > Now I've done it... > > Tonight I was installing the landing gear on my RV-7, and all was going well > until the very last step...drilling the cotter pin hole in the 2nd axle (the > first one went fine!). > > The problem is that I center-punched the hole in the axle, but as soon as I > started turning the axle nut it got stiff real quick. I'm not sure if the > axle nut is totally stripped (turning without engaging) or just badly > stripped, but I'm having a heck of a time getting it off. I need to go snag > a big socket and see, I guess. > > But my questions are: > > - Has this happened to anybody before? I didn't see anything about it in > the archives, so I'm probably the first bonehead to do this. I'm curious if > there are any tricks for getting the nut (probably stripped) off the axle > without cutting it off, or worse...ordering a new gear leg! Is there any > hope? > > - I must have punched too hard or too deep or something, damaging the > threads just enough to screw it all up. What's the proper technique for > doing this (punching/marking the axle for drilling) without causing major > damage? The instructions say to center punch it. > > Thanks in advance, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (finish) > http://www.rvproject.com > >