Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:35 AM - Re: Stripped axle/nut (Jim Jewell)
2. 12:46 AM - Re: Stripped axle/nut (Dan Checkoway)
3. 12:59 AM - Re: Got the axle nut off...disregard previous message (Jeff Point)
4. 06:36 AM - Re: RV-List RV GRIN (Why) (P M Condon)
5. 06:50 AM - Re: Got the axle nut off...disregard previous message (Bill Dube)
6. 07:35 AM - Wheel Bearing Question (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
7. 08:10 AM - Alternator conversion (Wheeler North)
8. 08:16 AM - Re: Wheel Bearing Question (Pat Hatch)
9. 09:06 AM - fuelube substitute (Ross Schlotthauer)
10. 09:28 AM - Re: Wheel Bearing Question (Kyle Boatright)
11. 09:52 AM - Prop Failure research (Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO)
12. 09:57 AM - Prop Failure (do you know of any) (Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO)
13. 10:27 AM - Re: fuelube substitute (Michael McGee)
14. 10:29 AM - Re: Prop Failure (do you know of any) (Jerry Springer)
15. 10:37 AM - Re: fuelube substitute (John Starn)
16. 11:04 AM - Re: Stripped axle/nut (HCRV6@aol.com)
17. 12:30 PM - Fw: fuelube substitute (Cy Galley)
18. 01:17 PM - 2 fly ins at Bakersfield Municipal Airport (L45) (MeangreenRV4@aol.com)
19. 02:02 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 04/09/03 Wheel Bearings (PSPRV6A@aol.com)
20. 02:05 PM - SNF Award winners (Dana Overall)
21. 03:32 PM - Alternator conversion updated (Wheeler North)
22. 03:57 PM - Micro Air radio (Scott Vanartsdalen)
23. 04:02 PM - Primer line question (HCRV6@aol.com)
24. 04:18 PM - Re: Primer line question (JDaniel343@aol.com)
25. 04:41 PM - Primer fitting installation (HCRV6@aol.com)
26. 04:48 PM - Re: Primer line question (HCRV6@aol.com)
27. 05:39 PM - Re: Primer line question (Cy Galley)
28. 06:51 PM - Fw: Primer line question (Cy Galley)
29. 06:57 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 04/09/03 (Jim Bean)
30. 07:06 PM - Re: Micro Air radio (Ken Stribling)
31. 07:59 PM - Which engine setup? (Bobby Hester)
32. 08:25 PM - Gyros (Alex Peterson)
33. 10:14 PM - Re: Primer line question (Curt Reimer)
34. 10:43 PM - proper torque for a AN509-10R16 screw (Karie Daniel)
35. 11:33 PM - Re: proper torque for a AN509-10R16 screw (Jeff Point)
36. 11:38 PM - Re: Primer line question (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Stripped axle/nut |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dan,
I just read your second post on this subject. If you look close up with a
good magnifier at the axle threads, you will most likely find that what
looks like ruined steel threads will be aluminum threads clogging up the
existing steel threads. That is if your luck holds a bit. If this is in fact
what you find, a good very sharp point, a fine deep angle file and a bit of
patience might work.
I send along the following response to your first email that I was about to
send when I read your second post.
Hello Dan,
It sounds like you center punched hard enough to raise the edges of the
threads. This then causes the damaged steel thread to gall the threads
inside the aluminum axle nut. The galled threads pile up and begin binding
causing what you describe.
There is hope, the axle threads are steel and will be OK I think. You will
however, have to order a new axle nut.
I too have been at this task on my 6-A for the last day or so. My approach:
After taking great care to install and torque the brake flange Allen bolt
retainer, I slid the wheel assembly into place. I then installed the Axle
nut and set the bearing pre-load a bit high while rotating the wheel. I then
backed off the axle nut to zero play and re-set it to a light pre-load. I
consider one flat or less of the hex nut to be "a light pre-load".
To locate and drill the first cotter pin hole I used a fresh sharp 12" long
3/32" drill and used the hole in the most forward facing flat as a guide. I
drilled only deep enough to place an unmistreakable center mark in the
threads.
It is good advise to use air pressure after drilling to remove cuttings from
the hole before trying to move the threaded parts
I then removed the nut and cleaned the inner threads with a small wire
brush. I removed the wheel and checked the mark made by the drill.
Satisfied that the mark was deep enough I then proceeded to drill the hole
through that side of the hollow axle. I again cleaned the threads etc. and
replaced the wheel and the axle nut. I used the shank of the 3/32" drill to
find the hole and check that the hole was indeed positioned right when the
pre-load was set as before. It was, so again I removed the axle nut and
wheel.
Next with the wheel off I drilled the 3/32" hole out to #30 and after once
again cleaning all threads etc. I installed the wheel nut so that I could
use the cotter pin to position the wheel nut in the desired position.
After double checking positioning etc. I then used the #30 drill to mark the
hole on the opposite side of the hollow axle.
After removing the nut and cleaning all the threads again I used the 3/32"
drill to drill through the axle wall. I followed with the #30 drill, this
time passing all the way through both sides of the axle so as to align the
two holes.
I then re-installed the nut and checked the fit of the cotter pin.
Finally after repeating the process for the other axle, I disassembled
cleaned and reassembled all the parts, set the pre-load installed the cotter
pins. I did not bend the ends of the cotter pins at this time as I expect to
have the wheels on and off again.
At various times during this process I found it necessary to use a small
Exacto hobby file to remove burrs from the edges of the axle threads.
The burrs will eat at the inner axle threads if not removed
Sorry to hear of the trouble, I hope this helps,
Jim (I never make Mistreakes) Jewell in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Stripped axle/nut
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Now I've done it...
>
> Tonight I was installing the landing gear on my RV-7, and all was going
well
> until the very last step...drilling the cotter pin hole in the 2nd axle
(the
> first one went fine!).
>
> The problem is that I center-punched the hole in the axle, but as soon as
I
> started turning the axle nut it got stiff real quick. I'm not sure if the
> axle nut is totally stripped (turning without engaging) or just badly
> stripped, but I'm having a heck of a time getting it off. I need to go
snag
> a big socket and see, I guess.
>
> But my questions are:
>
> - Has this happened to anybody before? I didn't see anything about it in
> the archives, so I'm probably the first bonehead to do this. I'm curious
if
> there are any tricks for getting the nut (probably stripped) off the axle
> without cutting it off, or worse...ordering a new gear leg! Is there any
> hope?
>
> - I must have punched too hard or too deep or something, damaging the
> threads just enough to screw it all up. What's the proper technique for
> doing this (punching/marking the axle for drilling) without causing major
> damage? The instructions say to center punch it.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Stripped axle/nut |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The problem is completely resolved now...total expenses: $0
DISREGARD my previous messages. Here on the west coast after midnight I'm
having a little email dialogue with myself, since all the other RV-ers
across the US are undoubtedly sleeping at this point. Hit delete now if you
don't want to hear me ramble about how I got the nut off.
As it turns out, when I center-punched the hole location on the axle, I hit
a thread directly, square, dead-on. It literally SPLIT the thread (I know
this now after much work)! Had the punch centered itself between threads
(in a valley, so to speak), there would have been no issue. But with the
thread basically split open, it locked the axle nut in place.
When I first went to loosen it, it was firm. I didn't have much choice,
though...the wheel was on there (it needed to be in order to set the axle
nut position properly). I didn't have a 1.5" socket, nor did I have a
crescent wrench large enough. So of course I got out the channel lock
pliers (aka "Can I Please Chew Your Nut" pliers) and had a go with those.
That worked for a few turns, but it got stiffer and stiffer, and I didn't
want to gouge the nut.
It had made some progress, since I could see the wheel was loose (could push
it in and out on the axle, maybe 3/16" or so). But it was going so hard and
so slowly that I couldn't tell whether or not the nut was totally stripping
and settling in an "I'm spinning here forever" position. That's when I
decided to go to our late-night Home Depot and pick up a 1.5" socket so I
wouldn't destroy the *outside* of the axle nut. Even though I half-figured
the nut would be scrapped anyway, it couldn't hurt to have the right tool
for the job.
Also at that point I was unfortunately envisioning placing an order with
Van's for a new gear leg. I figured if the nut wouldn't come off by
loosening it, I would probably have to cut it off. And with the wheel right
there that would be risky business for sure. I was picturing just chopping
it off (cutoff wheel) inboard of the strip point and scrapping the gear leg.
Man, what did I *DO*?! This sucks.
Home Depot didn't have any sockets bigger than 1.25", so I was SOL (it was
10pm and at that point and Sears was long since closed). Guess I'll have to
wait until tomorrow morning when I can hit Sears. Home Depot had a large
crescent wrench, but it was 40 bucks...forget that. I can wait until
tomorrow (even though I'll probably way overpay Sears for a single large
socket...I figure at least $10).
When I got home, I couldn't leave well enough alone. I tried to think of
ways to get the nut off. Cutting that sucker off without disturbing the
axle or the wheel would be a real feat. I was staring at the thing when it
hit me...the freakin' bench vise!!!
I clamped the axle nut in the vise (rubber pads on) and proceeded to rotate
the axle...using it like a big breaker bar. It turned, but still I couldn't
tell whether it was making any progress or just spinning in its
now-totally-stripped rut. But after much grunting (the gear leg with the
wheel on is heavy and awkward, to say the least) and rotating, the nut
actually came off.
That was a major turning point, because at least I had the wheel off the
axle and unscathed. And I figured worst case, I could find a shop to re-cut
the axle threads for me...because after thinking about it, I realized that
even if I were to scrounge up a large enough die, what would I use to turn
it?! The bench vise method wouldn't be too kosher for that.
Then I went into "I can fix this here and now" mode...the night is young
(11:30). I got out my little thread gauge from my tap & die set, and I
"combed" the axle with the 16TPI gauge, feeling for inconsistencies or rough
spots. It bumped into the split thread and it stood out like a sore thumb.
Wild.
I got out my needle files and went to work on it. I used the good axle nut
from the other side to test the threads...of course I didn't force it on, I
just hand-turned it until it hit resistance. I filed the split thread clean
until the good nut would finger-spin on without any resistance.
Then there was the "bad" nut, which would go on a turn or so and then jam
up. I could visually see where the nut threads were slightly damaged. Way
less damage than I would have thought, especially considering the torque it
took to get the nut off. I figured I would give it a try...I put Boelube on
the threads and spun it on, and then used a duct-taped channel lock pliers
to "force" it past the hump. It got re-tapped, and that was that. After a
couple of iterations the thing is as good as new...steel is rock to
aluminum's scissors. So with no money spent, I'm back to square one with
good parts.
So now for the official CAVEAT and moral of this story:
When center-punching your axle to drill it, try to feel around with the
punch to make sure you're in a valley, not right on top of a thread!!! And
also, go lightly...just hard enough to make a mark. I really wanged on mine
and I obviously paid the price.
Good night,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Stripped axle/nut
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Now I've done it...
>
> Tonight I was installing the landing gear on my RV-7, and all was going
well
> until the very last step...drilling the cotter pin hole in the 2nd axle
(the
> first one went fine!).
>
> The problem is that I center-punched the hole in the axle, but as soon as
I
> started turning the axle nut it got stiff real quick. I'm not sure if the
> axle nut is totally stripped (turning without engaging) or just badly
> stripped, but I'm having a heck of a time getting it off. I need to go
snag
> a big socket and see, I guess.
>
> But my questions are:
>
> - Has this happened to anybody before? I didn't see anything about it in
> the archives, so I'm probably the first bonehead to do this. I'm curious
if
> there are any tricks for getting the nut (probably stripped) off the axle
> without cutting it off, or worse...ordering a new gear leg! Is there any
> hope?
>
> - I must have punched too hard or too deep or something, damaging the
> threads just enough to screw it all up. What's the proper technique for
> doing this (punching/marking the axle for drilling) without causing major
> damage? The instructions say to center punch it.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Got the axle nut off...disregard previous message |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
But now I need to tap or thread-file the axle to repair it, since the
threads are chewed up a bit. I'll obviously get a new axle nut. Anybody
know where you can get/borrow a tap for these axle threads?
Forget the die, use a thread file (16 TPI if memory serves) to clean up
around the holes, You will need to do this anyway after drilling to
cotter pin holes to full size. A thread file is cheap, very easy and
effective.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit FWF
Milwaukee
PS my engine is arriving today from Aerosport power and I am giddy as hell.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List RV GRIN (Why) |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
Time: 10:54:36 AM PST US
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Grin
Why, Rick ?
Does the Yahoo list offer a search engine by keyword ?? a CD of past
chats ?? sorting by date, subject or author ?? What is missing from the
Matronics list ??? Whats to be gained by creating a new chat group ??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Rick,
I don't understand the reason for another RV list. In my mind, it is a
negative because it makes one more place necessary to check for
information
about RV's. Already, there is Matt's RV-8 list and a competing Yahoo
RV-8
list. It is necessary to subscribe to both to keep up with what's
happening
with RV-8's. Many but not all RV-8 builders and flyers subscribe to
both,
so many post the same message on both lists, and some also copy that to
the
RV list. I don't know how active the RV-3, 6, 7 & 9 lists are, but much
of
the information overlaps between models of RVs. Lists are great ways to
keep
up with information, but I don't understand the need to fragment RV
information even more.
Terry
Subject: RV-List: RV Grin
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Got the axle nut off...disregard previous message |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
You need a "Thread Restoring File".
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/viewCatalogPDF.shtml?browserCompatable=true&adobeCompatable=true&CatPage=971
MUCH cheaper than messing around with other methods and screwing up the
gear leg.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wheel Bearing Question |
04/10/2003 10:33:15 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
As a neophyte to the aircraft building world, the recent posts regarding
the annual packing of wheel bearings caught my attention. Why is it that a
wheel that only rolls probably less than 100 miles in a year needs packing
every year? Most of the rolling will be done at a fast walking pace. I
realize that the little wheels must really spin up at flying / landing
speeds, but this is only for a short duration. What says the list?
RV-8
Wings
Do Not Archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Alternator conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/alternator/index.h
tm
As promised the above link is a webpage showing lots of pictures of the
conversion I did to install a true 60amp continuous duty alternator.
W
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Bearing Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Don,
True, but this area is exposed to a lot of dirt, brake dust, etc., plus the
grease has a tendency to deteriorate with time. Also, I think you want to
check the bearings for condition and wear, so you would have to re-pack
anyway.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Bearing Question
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> As a neophyte to the aircraft building world, the recent posts regarding
> the annual packing of wheel bearings caught my attention. Why is it that
a
> wheel that only rolls probably less than 100 miles in a year needs packing
> every year? Most of the rolling will be done at a fast walking pace. I
> realize that the little wheels must really spin up at flying / landing
> speeds, but this is only for a short duration. What says the list?
> RV-8
> Wings
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | fuelube substitute |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
Dear list,
I am putting together my fuel and brake system. I
ordered some fuelube but it is on back order. Is
there something else I can use that is more readily
available to seal the pipe threads on these fittings?
Thanks in advance.
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Fuse
http://tax.yahoo.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Bearing Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
The other factor to consider is that most modern bearings are of the sealed
variety, and need no maintenance until replacement. On my old Triumph TR-6,
there are a million and one areas that (per the manual) are on a 3
month/3000 mile grease/lube/etc. maintenance schedule. Our RV wheel
bearings are the same kind of old, high maintenance technology, so they need
regular cleaning and repacking.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel Bearing Question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
> Don,
>
> True, but this area is exposed to a lot of dirt, brake dust, etc., plus
the
> grease has a tendency to deteriorate with time. Also, I think you want to
> check the bearings for condition and wear, so you would have to re-pack
> anyway.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> Vero Beach, FL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Wheel Bearing Question
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
> >
> >
> > As a neophyte to the aircraft building world, the recent posts regarding
> > the annual packing of wheel bearings caught my attention. Why is it
that
> a
> > wheel that only rolls probably less than 100 miles in a year needs
packing
> > every year? Most of the rolling will be done at a fast walking pace. I
> > realize that the little wheels must really spin up at flying / landing
> > speeds, but this is only for a short duration. What says the list?
> > RV-8
> > Wings
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Prop Failure research |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO <Brock.Vaughn@hanscom.af.mil>
AYMAR DEMUTH PROP FAILURE.
I am searching for any information about Aymar DeMuth prop failures. As of
today I know of two. One can be found on the NTSB site involving a RV-4 and
the other was me in an RV-3 which will post to the NTSB in 60 days. The
reputation of Mr DeMuth precedes him. I understand he has denied any
responsibility and liability for what is clear evidence of delaminating
through inadequate technique or manufacturing. I am looking for any fact
based data to document any prop failures.
I realize most experimental incidents go unreported due to various reasons
(lack of time to file, lack of knowledge of procedures to file, not knowing
who to contact, fear of FAA etc). I would speculate there are several prop
failures that are out there and I would like to learn of them. Particularly
Aymar DeMuth props. Rest assured, that there is no repercussion for
surviving a prop failure and not reporting it to the FAA and my purpose is
to simply scope the size of the problem.
The facts are my prop failed at 10,500 feet and shook enough to instantly
rip the spinner off. I was above a broken cloud deck and could not see the
ground clearly. I declared an emergency with NY approach and the controller
vectored me to the closest airport 8 miles away. I landed without event or
damage (other than the prop and spinner).
Put yourself in my position. Would you have made it? If so, would your
wife let you keep the plane after the fact? Do you have the disposable
income to buy a prop and press on? Is the risk of doubling your insurance
premium for the next 10 years sound like the solution?
I would like to write how well the prop worked and increased the top end by
18 knots and only lost 700 FPM climb performance. Unfortunately the prop
delaminated and failed.
BV
Message 12
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| Subject: | Prop Failure (do you know of any) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO <Brock.Vaughn@hanscom.af.mil>
AYMAR DEMUTH PROP FAILURE.
I am searching for any information about Aymar DeMuth prop failures. As of
today I know of two. One can be found on the NTSB site involving a RV-4 and
the other was me in an RV-3 which will post to the NTSB in 60 days. The
reputation of Mr DeMuth precedes him. I understand he has denied any
responsibility and liability for what is clear evidence of delaminating
through inadequate technique or manufacturing. I am looking for any fact
based data to document any prop failures.
I realize most experimental incidents go unreported due to various reasons
(lack of time to file, lack of knowledge of procedures to file, not knowing
who to contact, fear of FAA etc). I would speculate there are several prop
failures that are out there and I would like to learn of them. Particularly
Aymar DeMuth props. Rest assured, that there is no repercussion for
surviving a prop failure and not reporting it to the FAA and my purpose is
to simply scope the size of the problem.
The facts are my prop failed at 10,500 feet and shook enough to instantly
rip the spinner off. I was above a broken cloud deck and could not see the
ground clearly. I declared an emergency with NY approach and the controller
vectored me to the closest airport 8 miles away. I landed without event or
damage (other than the prop and spinner).
Put yourself in my position. Would you have made it? If so, would your
wife let you keep the plane after the fact? Do you have the disposable
income to buy a prop and press on? Is the risk of doubling your insurance
premium for the next 10 years sound like the solution?
I would like to write how well the prop worked and increased the top end by
18 knots and only lost 700 FPM climb performance. Unfortunately the prop
delaminated and failed.
BV
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: fuelube substitute |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 09:06 2003-04-10 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
>
>Dear list,
>
>I am putting together my fuel and brake system. I
>ordered some fuelube but it is on back order. Is
>there something else I can use that is more readily
>available to seal the pipe threads on these fittings?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Ross Schlotthauer
>RV-7 Fuse
For the fuel and oil line threaded fittings I use Permatex High temp thread
sealant (p/n 59214) from your local National Aircraft Parts Association
store or equivalent. It'll be on the rack with the Permatex Thread Locker
(Loctite).
I've not used it on the brake fittings but it should work as well.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Failure (do you know of any) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
If there are only two that is a good record IMO for as many props
as Mr Demuth has made. Wood props can and do come apart. Metal blades do
break also.My favorite wood prop when I was running a wood prop was a
Warnke "almost constant speed" prop. There were several failures with
this prop. One of the failures was mine, I had loaned it to Bill
Benedict to test on his RV-4 he lost 6" of the tip in flight. Wood props
can and do break. Sounds to me like maybe you are trying to build a case
against Mr DuMuth? BTW incidents do not need to be reported to FAA.
Jerry
Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO <Brock.Vaughn@hanscom.af.mil>
>
> AYMAR DEMUTH PROP FAILURE.
> I am searching for any information about Aymar DeMuth prop failures. As of
> today I know of two. One can be found on the NTSB site involving a RV-4 and
> the other was me in an RV-3 which will post to the NTSB in 60 days. The
> reputation of Mr DeMuth precedes him. I understand he has denied any
> responsibility and liability for what is clear evidence of delaminating
> through inadequate technique or manufacturing. I am looking for any fact
> based data to document any prop failures.
>
> I realize most experimental incidents go unreported due to various reasons
> (lack of time to file, lack of knowledge of procedures to file, not knowing
> who to contact, fear of FAA etc). I would speculate there are several prop
> failures that are out there and I would like to learn of them. Particularly
> Aymar DeMuth props. Rest assured, that there is no repercussion for
> surviving a prop failure and not reporting it to the FAA and my purpose is
> to simply scope the size of the problem.
>
> The facts are my prop failed at 10,500 feet and shook enough to instantly
> rip the spinner off. I was above a broken cloud deck and could not see the
> ground clearly. I declared an emergency with NY approach and the controller
> vectored me to the closest airport 8 miles away. I landed without event or
> damage (other than the prop and spinner).
>
> Put yourself in my position. Would you have made it? If so, would your
> wife let you keep the plane after the fact? Do you have the disposable
> income to buy a prop and press on? Is the risk of doubling your insurance
> premium for the next 10 years sound like the solution?
>
> I would like to write how well the prop worked and increased the top end by
> 18 knots and only lost 700 FPM climb performance. Unfortunately the prop
> delaminated and failed.
>
> BV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: fuelube substitute |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
NO. Where do you live, must be someone close that has a bit to share. We
started with 1/2 a 35mm film container of the stuff and completed the HRII.
We still have a good bit left over. It dosen't take much. P.S. Put it on the
male threads ONLY. Do Not Archive. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: fuelube substitute
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer
<rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
>
> Dear list,
>
> I am putting together my fuel and brake system. I
> ordered some fuelube but it is on back order. Is
> there something else I can use that is more readily
> available to seal the pipe threads on these fittings?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV-7 Fuse
>
> http://tax.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stripped axle/nut |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 4/10/03 12:48:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
<< So now for the official CAVEAT and moral of this story:
When center-punching your axle to drill it, try to feel around with the
punch to make sure you're in a valley, not right on top of a thread!!! And
also, go lightly...just hard enough to make a mark. I really wanged on mine
and I obviously paid the price.
>>
The other way to do this is to use your 12 in. #40 aircraft drill to mark the
axle, just enough to make a clear dimple. If I recall correctly that's what
my circa 1994 RV-6 instructions suggested doing and it worked great.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | fuelube substitute |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuelube substitute
> If you are sealing pipe fittings use Loctite PST or even just ordinary
pipe
> dope with powdered Teflon. DO NOT use Teflon tape.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 11:06 AM
> Subject: RV-List: fuelube substitute
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer
> <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Dear list,
> >
> > I am putting together my fuel and brake system. I
> > ordered some fuelube but it is on back order. Is
> > there something else I can use that is more readily
> > available to seal the pipe threads on these fittings?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Ross Schlotthauer
> > RV-7 Fuse
> >
> > http://tax.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | 2 fly ins at Bakersfield Municipal Airport (L45) |
--> RV-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4@aol.com
> There will be 2 fly ins at Bakersfield Municipal Airport (L45) this year.
> Home of the Harmon Rocket and many fast RV's
>
> 1st Event....2nd annual Peace Wing & Ride May 2nd & 3rd
> This is a fund raiser for C.A.R.E. (Children's Advocates Resource
> Endowment)
> This is a combination Airplanes (GA & Experimental), Hot Rods &
> Motorcycles. There will be a live band, BBQ by the Outback Restaurant and
> many other event's. Fly In on Friday spend the night with Buck Owens @ the
> Crystal Palace, Shuttles & Lodging will be available. Fly In will start AM
> on Saturday Morning May 3rd. For More Info please see the web site
> www.PeaceRide.com or call Tim Barnes @ (611) 393-7519
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **********************************************************************************************
>
> 2nd Event......EAA Chapter 71 annual BBQ & Fly In May 31st.
> This will be just like old times, All Experimental Aircraft welcome,
> BBQ will be Tri-Tip, Beans, Salad, Rolls and Desert
> Plenty of Planes & Hangar Talk. BBQ served around 3:00 pm
> More Info Call John Harmon @ (661) 836-1028 Or Tim Barnes @ (661) 393-7519
>
> Put This on your Calender, Hope To See You There!
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 04/09/03 Wheel Bearings |
--> RV-List message posted by: PSPRV6A@aol.com
My brother & I have maintained our 1975 172 since new. We repack
bearings on a 3-year interval. The bearings have new appearance except for
one tiny dark spot on one race that has been there for 15 years. We are darn
careful about nut setting, always slight clearance for free running. 28
years & no problems. We are both mechanical engineers but we probably get it
right anyway!!! Paul S. Petersen RV6A, building with son Eric
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | SNF Award winners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Since Rick Gray http://rvflying.tripod.com/rickgray.jpg won't say anything
about the little ol award he won, it just so happened to be Grand
Champion-Kit. You can tell how much traffic was around his airplane by the
trampled down grass.
The entire list is posted at
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/030408_sunnfun_winners.html
Looks like we won with numbers on the flight line and in the awards.
Congrats to all the RV award winners.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Alternator conversion updated |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/alternator/index.h
tm
I just updated this some to clarify and made it into two pages, disassembly
and reassembly. (I really shouldn't design technical webpages after not
sleeping for two days)
Sorry about the large images but it makes it possible to save and print them
a little larger.
I put an hour on it yesterday evening and it ran fine, with no radio noise,
although I do have my radio buss reasonably well filtered.
W
Message 22
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
This is a shot in the dark but it gives me something to do while I wait for Micro
Air to respond. My Micro Air 760 radio started displaying the frequencies
on the LED readout in Kanji characters. Can anyone either teach me Kanji or else
point me to some resources that might help me teach my radio English? Thanks!
--
For God says, "At just the right time, I heard you. On the day of salvation, I
helped you." Indeed, God is ready to help you right now. Today is the day of
salvation.
2 Corinthians 6:2, New Living Translation
---------------------------------
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Primer line question |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Can anyone tell me if the 1/8" seamless stainless tubing with 0.035" wall
that ACS sells is the right stuff to use for primer lines? It seems to me
that 0.035" wall is pretty stout for a primer line but I can't seem to find
anything else.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer line question |
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
I am using 1/8" copper, which I purchased from Vans or ACS.
I would think this would be better for vibration purposes.
John Danielson
RV-6
140 hours
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Primer fitting installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Can anyone who has used the upper primer/manifold pressure ports (O-360 A1A)
for primer ports please share with me the method and tools you used to get at
the fittings in the ports on the back side of #2 And #1 cylinders to connect
the lines. I realize I can use a deep socket to put the fitting in, but I'm
stuck as to how to get a wrench in that hole to connect the line to the
fitting.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer line question |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Thanks John, you saved me from asking my next question about using copper
instead of stainless tubing. Did you silver solder the copper lines to the
primer fittings or did you use flare or compression fittings?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer line question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I suppose that would work but many use Copper. And yes it work hardens and
cracks.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Primer line question
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> Can anyone tell me if the 1/8" seamless stainless tubing with 0.035" wall
> that ACS sells is the right stuff to use for primer lines? It seems to me
> that 0.035" wall is pretty stout for a primer line but I can't seem to
find
> anything else.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, firewall forward
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Primer line question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>
> > Primer is low-pressure so that silver solder isn't necessary. You can
get
> > the compression rings from your hardware store.
> >
> > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> >
> > Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> > cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
> >
> > Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 6:45 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer line question
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
> > >
> > > Thanks John, you saved me from asking my next question about using
> copper
> > > instead of stainless tubing. Did you silver solder the copper lines
to
> > the
> > > primer fittings or did you use flare or compression fittings?
> > >
> > > Harry Crosby
> > > Pleasanton, California
> > > RV-6, firewall forward
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 04/09/03 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
I wonder if the culprit isn't that the bearings sit for years, loaded
but not moving, while we build. I have been told that this kills gyro
bearings. The rollers/balls make tiny impressions in the races.
Maybe we need to rotate the wheels periodically? What do you all think?
Jim Bean
RV-8 engine stuff
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Well, I pulled the wheel off and answered my own question: RV-6 wheel
> bearings are Timken part numbers 08125 (cone) and 08231 (cup). Found some on
> the internet for about 20 bucks a set, plus UPS. Ordered 2 sets so I'd have
> a spare (and because the minimum order was $25).
>
> Research I just did in the Archives suggests the blue heavy duty lithium
> grease I just bought nd loaded into my new Lisle bearing packer may not be
> the best choice, so I may look for AeroShell #5 if it's available from my
> local Shell guy.
>
> My real concern is just what's going on here with my always-hangared
> airplane... two bearing failures in 280 hours... one was a nose wheel bearing
> at about 200 hrs, and now the outside left main. I don't think I am
> overtightening them, and I repacked them when I changed out of the cheapo
> tires and into some Michelins last year. The bearings both showed galling of
> the cups in the pattern of roller contact, as if something happened to
> corrode or pit them while the bearing was sitting. The rollers themselves
> became discolored (heat?) but appeared smooth. Fortunately, the failure mode
> is gradual, and announced by enough noise that it is hard to miss the problem
> or to pull the wrong wheel looking for the culprit.
>
> Should I be repacking every year?
>
> Thanks, everybody.
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Micro Air radio |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Stribling" <ken@soundsuckers.com>
Mine started doing that mainly when it was cold out I would have to turn it
off and on several times before I could read it, replaced it with icom much
easer to read and set channels in bumpy air.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Vanartsdalen" <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Micro Air radio
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> This is a shot in the dark but it gives me something to do while I wait
for Micro Air to respond. My Micro Air 760 radio started displaying the
frequencies on the LED readout in Kanji characters. Can anyone either teach
me Kanji or else point me to some resources that might help me teach my
radio English? Thanks!
>
> --
>
> For God says, "At just the right time, I heard you. On the day of
salvation, I helped you." Indeed, God is ready to help you right now. Today
is the day of salvation.
>
> 2 Corinthians 6:2, New Living Translation
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Which engine setup? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Ok, I've been thinking that I would go with a Brand new 0-360 from Van's
with fixed metal prop, but an offer of a 0-timed rebuilt 0-320 engine
has come up. Which would be the better setup 0-360 fixed pitch prop or
0-320 constant speed prop and some money left for instrument panel
goodies? Can I use auto fuel with the 0-320? What are the good point and
the bad? Any help appreciated!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 32
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> I wonder if the culprit isn't that the bearings sit for years, loaded
> but not moving, while we build. I have been told that this kills gyro
> bearings. The rollers/balls make tiny impressions in the
> races. Maybe we need to rotate the wheels periodically? What
> do you all think? Jim Bean RV-8 engine stuff
I'm sorry, and I mean no disrespect to Jim, but what he has heard is
junk science. Bearings don't simply "go soft" and allow the balls to
make dents while they sit on a shelf. This stuff about gyros goes on
and on, and comes up on the list about every six months. The most
likely problem is crappy bearings coming from the factory. We need to
apply judgement here - yes, it is still allowed. If someone told us the
wing spar might break if our planes our not flown occasionally, would be
believe it? Come on, apply critical thinking - some amount of
skepticism can go a long way. Some of what we hear about gyros belongs
in the cold fusion junkheap.
Often, I have heard that oil "draining out" of the bearings is a big
culprit, but is this reasonable? These gyros spin at rediculous rpms,
and if oil could simply fall out of the bearings, what would happen to
the oil under the g loads at 20 thousand rpms, or whatever these things
spin at? I suspect there are many gyros out there that are older than I
that have spun billions of revolutions without problems. Generally and
generically speaking, bearings either fail quite early or go a long,
long time. Early failures are usually craftsmanship problems.
Maybe I'm full of crap, but I'd like to hear some sort of scientifically
valid theories on some of this stuff, theories that can hold up to known
engineering truths.
Fire away -
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 291 hours
www.rvforum.org
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer line question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
I used the 1/8 stainless line for my primer. Not as easy to work with as
copper but quite doable. I also ran a flexible line from the primer solonoid
to the engine. I'm not a big fan of the coiled solid line approach, even
though a zillion other airplanes use it.
As for soldering on the cone union fittings, be sure to at least use a
solder that has a melting point higher than the cylinders will see in
service. I used hardware store solder made for stainless lines. It also
happened to have a higher melting point than regular plumbing solder.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Primer line question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>
> >
> >
> > > Primer is low-pressure so that silver solder isn't necessary. You can
> get
> > > the compression rings from your hardware store.
> > >
> > > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> > >
> > > Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> > > cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
> > >
> > > Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 6:45 PM
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer line question
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
> > > >
> > > > Thanks John, you saved me from asking my next question about using
> > copper
> > > > instead of stainless tubing. Did you silver solder the copper lines
> to
> > > the
> > > > primer fittings or did you use flare or compression fittings?
> > > >
> > > > Harry Crosby
> > > > Pleasanton, California
> > > > RV-6, firewall forward
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | proper torque for a AN509-10R16 screw |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
I can't seem to locate on any torque chart the proper torque for a AN509-10R16
screw. This screw holds in the counterbalance weight in the top of the rudder
for the RV-7 and 9. Also, what is the best method for cutting the fiberglass piece
that fits the bottom of the rudder. It looks like I just follow the line
but I'm not sure what to cut it with.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
Sammamish, WA
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: proper torque for a AN509-10R16 screw |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Karie,
http://www1.faa.gov/avr/afs/300/pdf/2u-ch7_2.pdf
http://www1.faa.gov/avr/afs/300/pdf/2v-ch7_3.pdf
AN509 are structural screws and use the same torque as AN3 bolts (20-25
in-lbs.)
I find that a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel works the best for
cutting Fglass, but snips can also be used.
Jeff Point
RV-6 FWF
Milwaukee WI
Karie Daniel wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
>
>I can't seem to locate on any torque chart the proper torque for a AN509-10R16
screw. This screw holds in the counterbalance weight in the top of the rudder
for the RV-7 and 9. Also, what is the best method for cutting the fiberglass
piece that fits the bottom of the rudder. It looks like I just follow the line
but I'm not sure what to cut it with.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A
> Sammamish, WA
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Primer line question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/10/2003 4:03:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time, HCRV6@aol.com
writes:
> Can anyone tell me if the 1/8" seamless stainless tubing with 0.035" wall
> that ACS sells is the right stuff to use for primer lines?
Harry-
That's what I used and it is properly silver soldered to the cone union
fittings.
I don't understand the comment from someone regarding putting primer fittings
into the upper cylinder ports. Why?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 596hrs)
No ancient folk tale quotes from the bible appended here, just random
musings:
News flash cavemen and cavewomen, there are no gods.
The earth is not the center of the universe.
You will never be closer to heaven than you are right now.
Try to enjoy the one life you have and be nice to one another, you won't get
another chance.
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