Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:01 AM - Re: Re: RV-6 tip-up latch - any improvements available? (Jerry Calvert)
2. 05:32 AM - ICOM Battery (REGAES@aol.com)
3. 06:28 AM - H2AD enigine parts required. (graham jones)
4. 06:35 AM - Re: ICOM Battery (Denis Walsh)
5. 07:10 AM - Re: Alt cooling air required? (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
6. 07:28 AM - Re: ICOM Battery (John Starn)
7. 07:57 AM - Re: HS 710 and HS 714 drilling (Phil Birkelbach)
8. 08:50 AM - Re: ICOM Battery (Rob Prior)
9. 09:57 AM - Re: Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently (Michael McGee)
10. 09:57 AM - Re: Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently (Michael McGee)
11. 10:42 AM - Re: Alternative Engines (Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO)
12. 11:01 AM - Re: VOR prognosis? (KostaLewis)
13. 11:58 AM - Re: Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently poor power. (Dave Bristol)
14. 12:45 PM - Re: RV-6 tow bar (Larygagnon@aol.com)
15. 01:15 PM - Re: Re: RV-6 tow bar (Sam Buchanan)
16. 01:16 PM - To lock or not lock canopy? (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
17. 01:36 PM - Re: Re: RV-6 tow bar (Larry Pardue)
18. 02:16 PM - Re: To lock or not lock canopy? (Scott Vanartsdalen)
19. 02:18 PM - Alternator fans (Wheeler North)
20. 03:16 PM - Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently poor power. (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
21. 03:50 PM - Re: Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently poor power. (RobHickman@aol.com)
22. 03:53 PM - Re: To lock or not lock canopy? (Dave Bristol)
23. 04:00 PM - Battery voltage, long (was: Alternator fans) (Bill Dube)
24. 04:13 PM - Re: To lock or not lock canopy? (Kyle Boatright)
25. 04:37 PM - Re: Battery voltage, long (was: Alternator fans) (Randy Lervold)
26. 04:55 PM - Re: To lock or not lock canopy? (Chris W)
27. 05:18 PM - Rocket vs Extra 300S (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers)
28. 06:11 PM - pop rivets (Bert Forero)
29. 06:14 PM - Test Vacum... (Bert Forero)
30. 06:16 PM - Re: Re: RV-6 tow bar (H.Ivan Haecker)
31. 06:23 PM - Re: pop rivets (Kyle Boatright)
32. 07:19 PM - Re: Test Vacum... (Jim Oke)
33. 07:27 PM - Re: Alternative Engines (Jerry Springer)
34. 07:46 PM - Re: Test Vacum... (John Starn)
35. 07:55 PM - Re: Rocket vs Extra 300S (Doug Rozendaal)
36. 08:17 PM - Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Paul Stratman)
37. 08:23 PM - Re: Alternative Engines (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
38. 08:26 PM - Re: Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently (Michael McGee)
39. 08:32 PM - RV with apparently low power (Donald Mei)
40. 08:39 PM - Re: Canopy locks (Meketa)
41. 08:46 PM - Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Larry Bowen)
42. 09:00 PM - Re: pop rivets (Dan Checkoway)
43. 09:03 PM - Re: Test Vacum... (Craig Warner)
44. 09:12 PM - Re: pop rivets (Kyle Boatright)
45. 09:35 PM - Yaesu Aviator Pilot (Rob W M Shipley)
46. 09:35 PM - Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style (Rick Fogerson)
47. 09:43 PM - Re: Rocket vs Extra 300S (Tom Gummo)
48. 09:50 PM - Re: Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently poor power. (Vanremog@aol.com)
49. 10:57 PM - Re: Test Vacum... (John Starn)
50. 11:09 PM - (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
51. 11:24 PM - Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (James E. Clark)
52. 11:30 PM - Re: Test Vacum... (James E. Clark)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip-up latch - any improvements available? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
I went with this option on my -6 and really like it. It took very minimal
trimming on the sides to fit the canopy frame. Highly recommend this
option.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: RV-6 tip-up latch - any improvements available?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Yep, it's an alternative to the foam/glass approach. Disregard... 8-)
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gilbert Alexander" <gilalex@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: RV-6 tip-up latch - any improvements available?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gilbert Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Dan .. does that kit replace the foam and glass re-inforcement in the
> front of the tip-up frame?
> >
> > If so, I've already done that...:
> > ( gil A
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: REGAES@aol.com
My backup handheld IC-A22 battery has died. Is there a good source for
replacement batterys?
CLYDE SEAGER
RV4 N28CS
PENSACOLA,FL.
Message 3
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| Subject: | H2AD enigine parts required. |
--> RV-List message posted by: graham jones <gratech2@bigpond.com>
Listers,
I have a request for a mate with an RV4 that is just about finished and who has
a H2AD to go into it that needs a few bits and pieces to get it going. He was/is
on a budget and has experienced all the 'finest things' that the 'nicest'
aviation parts suppliers could throw at him (he got ripped off with no comeback
in other words......). What he needs are some bits and pieces, big and small
as you will see from the list and I figured that it might be cheaper for him
to be able to source them from over there rather than pay the elevated prices
we see out here in Australia..... I don't expect to source them all from listers
(or at all, unless you or someone real close to you has them ...). What
I am after is the best source of the bits on the following list?
1. Crankcases (his are badly fretted and it seems that it will cost as much
to line bore them as a serviceable secondhand set ....)
2. Main Bearings - Rods are standard - crank is/will be -3 thou.
3. A camshaft and probably a set of lifters too but he didn't mention them.
I'll call him and ask when he gets home from touring in a day or so.
4. A set of Exhaust Valves, Collets, & Retainers (and springs - again to be
checked)
5. A gasket set (complete)
6. A pair of cylinders complete with pistons and rings...
I know of Bart Lalonde at Aerosport power but if there is another good source for
this stuff it would be good to know too, especially if he could get a set of
cases in genuinely serviceable second hand condition for a good price. There
are the obvious bits he'll have to have as new so if anyone can tell me the
best source for it we/he will be very grateful.
Cheers
Graham Jones
Kilmore, Victoria
Australia
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: ICOM Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: REGAES@aol.com
>
> My backup handheld IC-A22 battery has died. Is there a good source for
> replacement batterys?
> CLYDE SEAGER
> RV4 N28CS
> PENSACOLA,FL.
>
>
>
>
>
>
I got mine from batteriesamerica.com. Works good lasts lots better than the
original
Message 5
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| Subject: | Alt cooling air required? |
tests=AWL,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST
version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
I have 800 hours on my 6A with 3 failures.. 35A. I have a blast tube.
1 broken arm. One unknown, one toasted bearings.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>This question is related to alternators but not electrically. I have a RV-8
>and want to know if a cooling tube is necessary to a 40 amp alt? If yes
>does it blow onto the back or the front?
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: ICOM Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
I've replaced porta phone to keyless lock to watch batteries at Radio Shack.
They seem to stock'em all. KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <REGAES@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: ICOM Battery
> --> RV-List message posted by: REGAES@aol.com
>
> My backup handheld IC-A22 battery has died. Is there a good source for
> replacement batterys?
> CLYDE SEAGER
> RV4 N28CS
> PENSACOLA,FL.
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: HS 710 and HS 714 drilling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
I had to move those holes slightly inboard from where they were originally
supposed to be drilled to maintain edge distance. Am I glad I didn't drill
them when I built the HS. In short I wouldn't even center punch them.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: HS 710 and HS 714 drilling
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> All,
>
> A quick question came up on the HS that left me a little confused...on
view A-A there are four holes near the center of HS710 and HS714 that say to
"enlarge to 3/16 in assembly with fuselage". There is also a note
specifying which rivet to use in all of the HS710/HS714 holes. Do I A) Put
rivets in all the holes as specified, or B) Rivet everything but the four
holes, drill the four holes out to 3/16, then a rivet/bolt goes in later on.
>
> Glad I did the VS first...it was definitely easier.
>
> THanks,
> Scott
> 7A Emp
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: ICOM Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
I would recommend not replacing it with a stock iCOM battery, if you're
considering it. The NiCd on my iCOM doesn't hold a charge that well,
and for that matter never really did.
I bought two replacement 1100mAh NiMh batteries for my IC-A3 (A22
without the Nav feature) at Kendoo batteries (www.kendoo.com). The
stock iCOM NiCd battery is 600mAh. The new ones are the same size, and
work great.
I think Kendoo may be based in Florida, too... But I may be wrong.
-RB4
REGAES@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: REGAES@aol.com
>
> My backup handheld IC-A22 battery has died. Is there a good source for
> replacement batterys?
> CLYDE SEAGER
> RV4 N28CS
> PENSACOLA,FL.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently |
poor power.
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 21:45 2003-04-21 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
>
>Michael McGee wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
> >
> > (Gettin' long winded but I still think it's a good discussion)
> >
>
>You are right it is long winded but still does not add up with
>those numbers. I don't even remember who the original poster
>was, did they follow up with any numbers on the prop? :-)
>If the prop stops are correct it should still fly fine at flat pitch.
>
>Jerry
No prop numbers on the original post. The follow up noted that they
discovered the fuel injection servo was set up too rich at the factory.
MGM
Original post:
Subject: Lasar and/or fuel injection problems on first flight
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
First flight of a friends RV7A was a little disappointing. His new XP-360
with fuel injection and Lasar would not develop full power. The vision
guages indicated 2700 rpm with 28 in man press. but the airplane was sluggish
and climbed at only 500 fpm and required leaning to run in flight (seemed to
be flooding out). We plan to start trouble shooting today and trying to
narrow down the problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Our group
does not have any experience with the Lasar sys. or the Bendix (Precision)
fuel injection.
Thanks,
Wayne Petrus
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently |
poor power.
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 02:49 2003-04-22 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 4/21/2003 3:54:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>jmpcrftr@teleport.com writes:
>
> > Why didn't the governor keep it from overspeeding?
> >
>Look in your Hartzell prop setup instructions and you will find that the high
>speed stop should be at the prop, not the governor.
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV 598hrs)
AH-HA! Learn something new every day!
Thx G.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO <Brock.Vaughn@hanscom.af.mil>
Jeff,
Sorry I did not have time to write more clearly. Short, choppy is about all I
have time for lately.
Air Force flying: Where there is a will, there is a way... In my day I was one
of 4 selected in the state (TN) of 2500 applicants. I'm not very smart and
got selected. Now days if you have a pulse and two marbles you are fighter bound.
My peer group is now the instructor corps in the AF now and definitely agree.
That eye crap you wrote of is BS. It seems you research or drive to fly
is not what it takes at first read. Reads like a slacker with an excuse. Back
to the point... The real challenge is going the civil route. Damn near everyone
I know is a pilot for the majors and all of them agree the civil route
is extremely difficult compared to the military. You should at least call me
or do some research and I'll give you a few pointers you don't read about.
I want to help you if I can and since you want to fly an RV (who can argue that),
I'll give you an option I am using. Lets talk cheap flying. Anyone out there
let me know if you can beat this. I bought into a RV-3 for $5K, I pay of
the fixed cost (MX, condition inspection and hanger and 50% of insurance cost
which is $450 a year). I fly out of the base so I have access to a one hell
of a MX shop with tools for days, a heated hanger, 2 A&Ps and one IA. The Boston
FSDO is on field and gives me a once over every so often, and let me just
state my stuff is in a pile IAW the FAA. My co owner (whom I met in the CAP;
more cheap flying) and I are good friends and get along better than any other
shared airplane I have heard of.
Pay attention to this part. I fly for $20-25 an hour. Well... ...not exactly.
Except for one detail. We paid $5K in MX last year for 150 hours of flight
time due to unforeseen MX items (radio failure, taxi accident, exhaust replacement,
prop replacement). That adds $33 an hour to cost totaling $53-58 an hour
of flight time. I worked on the plane 4-5 hours per flying hour just to keep
it in shape. My time is roughly worth $50-75 an hour to me. My last condition
inspection included removing all the jugs from the engine and removing the
wings for starters. The tank, canopy, instruments, brakes, electrical system,
gear soon followed. It took a month and would have cost another $4K. Do you
have the resources and know how? All that added up is $76-101 an hour for
a $20K RV-3.
The only people who think flying is cheap are people who do not own a plane and
want justification to own one. Those that own a plane (or two) know all to well
the real cost of flying. I did not add the cost of the $32K kit sitting in
my living room which will some day return my investment if the stars are aligned
and the Gods are smiling.
The largest disservice anyone can do is making an uninformed decision. You wrote
you love to fly, you are doing nothing to get there soon. Building is a far
cry from flying and actually more expensive. Play devils advocate with yourself
and find all the flaws and have a plan for them. My love for flying is
real and proven in the fact I own a RV-3 (the best RV ever designed according
to Vans himself) and I am building a plane in my house to be completed in May.
There is a reason only a few people have the privilege to fly. There is a reason
there are 8000 kits sold and only 3000 flying. If you need encouragement
to buy a plane I would guess you are destine for failure. If you use your head
and plan you are destine to do formation loops in a year or so with a small
group of great guys who have proven that flying is more than a desire and made
it happen.
BROCK VAUGHN
Office 781 377-7843 Fax 5776 (DSN 478) Home 781 354-6656
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "KostaLewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>There's nothing like having 2 independent systems to cross-check...
VOR: Very Old Radio navigational system. But there is a system that is
even older, more reliable and independent of outside forces (unless they
get blown out the window): Sectionals/WAC. I like sectionals because of
the detail, even in the fast-moving RV's.
I have used a VOR once and that was for my check ride in 1971. I have
flown a lot since then and do an above average amount of cross country,
using my panel-mounted GPS. I still have a sectional on my knee board
with the old reliable red line drawn on it to keep on track. Call me old
fashion but they have never failed me. I do not fly IFR and did not put
a VOR in Suzie Q. My handheld ICOM has a VOR but I have never used the
feature. I got the radio at the same price as the one without it because
that was all they had at the time.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Well, there was the time I was loafing along in the Cub coming back from
OSH and found myself suddenly 5 miles off course. I think I may have
been abducted. Or flew through a rent in the time-space continuum. There
were these strange marks on my legs..........(oh, wait; those were from
me kicking myself).
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently poor power. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
The mechanical stops on the prop will only set the STATIC rpm of the engine on
the
ground - they will not stop the engine from overspeed in flight, only the governor
will do that.
Dave RV6 180 cs, So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Michael McGee wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
> At 02:49 2003-04-22 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> >
> >In a message dated 4/21/2003 3:54:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >jmpcrftr@teleport.com writes:
> >
> > > Why didn't the governor keep it from overspeeding?
> > >
> >Look in your Hartzell prop setup instructions and you will find that the high
> >speed stop should be at the prop, not the governor.
> >
> >-GV (RV-6A N1GV 598hrs)
>
> AH-HA! Learn something new every day!
> Thx G.
> Mike
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tow bar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
I've just started pulling my RV 6 into and out of my hanger and because space
is tight wanted to use a tow bar. The only thing I can find is the
tail-dragger dragger that won't work with my tailwheel fairing. I looked at
a tow bar for a friends Glassair lll that looks like it might work on the
bolt that goes through the tailwheel. Does anyone on the list use it or some
modified Cessna tow bar to move a taildragger? The archives list has a lot
of info on the 6A and 8A but very little on the 6. Is everyone just pushing
on the horizontal stab or prop to move them around? Thanks in advance, this
list is a great source of information.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG at the airport
Kitfox N102LG 220 hrs
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tow bar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Larygagnon@aol.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
>
> I've just started pulling my RV 6 into and out of my hanger and because space
> is tight wanted to use a tow bar. The only thing I can find is the
> tail-dragger dragger that won't work with my tailwheel fairing. I looked at
> a tow bar for a friends Glassair lll that looks like it might work on the
> bolt that goes through the tailwheel. Does anyone on the list use it or some
> modified Cessna tow bar to move a taildragger? The archives list has a lot
> of info on the 6A and 8A but very little on the 6. Is everyone just pushing
> on the horizontal stab or prop to move them around? Thanks in advance, this
> list is a great source of information.
>
This bar works very well with my RV-6:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/airport.html#towbar
Sam Buchanan
Message 16
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| Subject: | To lock or not lock canopy? |
04/22/2003 04:10:46 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
I have been reading the thread about airplane security with interest. My
personal opinion is that a lock is not a deterrent to avionics theft, but
it may prevent the theft of a headset or something similar. My reasoning
is that the lock will only help prevent a crime of opportunity, not a
planned heist of avionics that will most likely occur in the middle of the
night when there are no witnesses hanging around. If your plane is parked
on the ramp with the canopy unlocked and your expensive headsets are in
view, then the temptation may be too great to resist for the
snatch-and-grabbers. Locks only keep honest people honest. The avionics
thief knows his target from his scouting trips to the airport. He also
knows that a locked canopy adds less than a minute to the heist, but untold
hours of labor for the repairs after the breakin.
My idea is to install a locking heavy steel face plate/bar over the front
of the radio stack which can be part of my "away" kit for trips away from
the hangar where an overnight stay is in the works. If you want to really
screw with the bad guys, rig a blinking L.E.D. or two to the cover plate
with the word "armed" next to the diode. You might consider installing one
of these blinking diodes next to the canopy release as well. They don't
need to be turned off, and a small battery will power them for many years.
If you want to make an alarm sound, the rig a magnetic switch to the face
plate (keep it away from the compass) and put an obnoxious horn wired to
your battery with a hidden cut-off switch. When the plate is removed
without first having turned off the switch, the magnetic switch triggers
the horn. Bingo! You have just made a "Welfare" alarm system.
Do Not Archive
Don Alexander
RV-8 or RV-8A (We will know after a few more hours behind the stick of a
'46 Luscombe...what a sweet machine!)
Wings
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tow bar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
>
>I've just started pulling my RV 6 into and out of my hanger and because
>space
>is tight wanted to use a tow bar. The only thing I can find is the
>tail-dragger dragger that won't work with my tailwheel fairing. I looked at
>a tow bar for a friends Glassair lll that looks like it might work on the
>bolt that goes through the tailwheel. Does anyone on the list use it or
>some
>modified Cessna tow bar to move a taildragger? The archives list has a lot
>of info on the 6A and 8A but very little on the 6. Is everyone just pushing
>on the horizontal stab or prop to move them around? Thanks in advance, this
>list is a great source of information.
>
You don't say if you have a full swivel tailwheel. Makes all the
difference.
With my full swivel, I use a piece of rope with some hose over the grab
loop. The loop on the other end goes around the tailwheel spring. Cost
is nothing.
That's why you don't hear much about it. Too easy.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: To lock or not lock canopy? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Don,Don't judge an RV-8 by the manners of a Luscombe. Luscombes can be pretty
cantakerous to land. The RV tailwheel models are pretty easy to land in my opinion.
At least the -4 and the -6 that I've flown. Both have really wonderful
manners in the landing flare. For what it's worth, I don't have a lock on my
canopy. If they want it, they can have it. I'll take my portable GPS and my
crappy headphones with me when I leave, except when it's in my hangar.
Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
I have been reading the thread about airplane security with interest. My
personal opinion is that a lock is not a deterrent to avionics theft, but
it may prevent the theft of a headset or something similar. My reasoning
is that the lock will only help prevent a crime of opportunity, not a
planned heist of avionics that will most likely occur in the middle of the
night when there are no witnesses hanging around. If your plane is parked
on the ramp with the canopy unlocked and your expensive headsets are in
view, then the temptation may be too great to resist for the
snatch-and-grabbers. Locks only keep honest people honest. The avionics
thief knows his target from his scouting trips to the airport. He also
knows that a locked canopy adds less than a minute to the heist, but untold
hours of labor for the repairs after the breakin.
My idea is to install a locking heavy steel face plate/bar over the front
of the radio stack which can be part of my "away" kit for trips away from
the hangar where an overnight stay is in the works. If you want to really
screw with the bad guys, rig a blinking L.E.D. or two to the cover plate
with the word "armed" next to the diode. You might consider installing one
of these blinking diodes next to the canopy release as well. They don't
need to be turned off, and a small battery will power them for many years.
If you want to make an alarm sound, the rig a magnetic switch to the face
plate (keep it away from the compass) and put an obnoxious horn wired to
your battery with a hidden cut-off switch. When the plate is removed
without first having turned off the switch, the magnetic switch triggers
the horn. Bingo! You have just made a "Welfare" alarm system.
Do Not Archive
Don Alexander
RV-8 or RV-8A (We will know after a few more hours behind the stick of a
'46 Luscombe...what a sweet machine!)
Wings
--
For God says, "At just the right time, I heard you. On the day of salvation, I
helped you." Indeed, God is ready to help you right now. Today is the day of
salvation.
2 Corinthians 6:2, New Living Translation
---------------------------------
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Hummm,
The older certified units (prestolite etc.) mostly used a blast tube as they
needed it. They used centrifugal fans that pulled air out from the front of
the unit. So the airflow goes backwards from the outside airstream.
Many of the japanese units have fans on both ends and they try to move air
across the armature from the rear fan to the front fan as well as moving air
outwards from the inlets on both ends.
The problem with most automotive applications is their engines spin the
other way from airmotive. This is why the unit I built and posted on the web
about uses a rotor from a Honda. The Hondas spin the right direction to
maximize air pumping.
To install a blast tube one would need to direct the air into the center of
the unit on the rear end, as the vents on the sides are outlets.
The aramature will go forever as long as it is not overheated. What fails is
the wire insulation. The diodes in the rectifier will eventually fail. The
more heat, the sooner this will happen. If they never get warm then they may
last close to forever. Out of the hundreds of alternators I have replaced in
cars the common failure is the rectifier, the next most common is the
internal regulator. After this its bearings and brushes/slip rings which all
fail fairly rarely.
I have also found that most internal regulators keep system voltage to high
for lead acid batteries. This makes for bright lights and rapid charging but
it shortens the life of the motors, lights and batteries as they are all
designed to be operated at 13.68 V not 14.XX V. At the higher voltage they
produce more heat as they have more energy to get rid of. Some of the newer
battery technology seems to be impervious to higher charging rates but I
haven't done much with actually testing these units in the field. I believe
this is because the addiotnal current isn't translated into heat as much, or
the additional heat doesn't reduce the electrolyte as rapidly as a
conventional lead acid unit.
just my two cents worth
W
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently poor power. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Wow, I've been gone for 2 days, but have been losing sleep over this one.
Regardless of MP, regardless of mixture, any prop turning 2700 is going to be
thrusting like crazy, unless it's in zero pitch. Assuming this guy's prop had
effective pitch, say at the low stops even, at 2700 the prop had to be
yanking the plane hard. Sumpin' else is fishy here, maybe like the numbers...
If it's so rich it will barely run, then the rpm's will not be 2700.
Assume you've got this plane tied down on the ground with the tail attached
to a spring scale. How can this prop be turning 2700 and NOT put a large load
on the scale?
Sorry to bring this horse to life again, but inquiring minds...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
RV6a/FWF
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently poor power. |
--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
In a message dated 4/22/2003 5:14:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, Jerry2DT writes:
> Regardless of MP, regardless of mixture, any prop turning 2700 is going to be
> thrusting like crazy, unless it's in zero pitch. Assuming this guy's prop had
> effective pitch, say at the low stops even, at 2700 the prop had to be
> yanking the plane hard. Sumpin' else is fishy here, maybe
> like the numbers...
Wait I want to get on this dead horse also...
Try this,
Go fly the plane in level flight and full power at 2700 RPM. Now pull the power
until the prop drops below 2700 RPM and notice the power setting that it takes
in flight to get 2700 RPM.
Try it in a 500fpm climb..
You are going to find that the prop is way off the fine pitch stop when you are
going 120mph and climbing at full power. If your engine had only 100hp you are
still going to get the 2700rpm but the prop will be a lot less pitch=less thrust
to get the 2700RPM.
Rob Hickman
N401RH (RV4 180HP CS Prop)
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: To lock or not lock canopy? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
A Luscombe should be good prep for landing an RV. While they are very different
in handling, if you can land a Luscombe you will have no trouble with an RV.
Dave RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> Don,Don't judge an RV-8 by the manners of a Luscombe. Luscombes can be pretty
cantakerous to land. The RV tailwheel models are pretty easy to land in my
opinion. At least the -4 and the -6 that I've flown. Both have really wonderful
manners in the landing flare.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Battery voltage, long (was: Alternator fans) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>I have also found that most internal regulators keep system voltage to high
>for lead acid batteries. This makes for bright lights and rapid charging but
>it shortens the life of the motors, lights and batteries as they are all
>designed to be operated at 13.68 V not 14.XX V. At the higher voltage they
>produce more heat as they have more energy to get rid of. Some of the newer
>battery technology seems to be impervious to higher charging rates but I
>haven't done much with actually testing these units in the field. I believe
>this is because the addiotnal current isn't translated into heat as much, or
>the additional heat doesn't reduce the electrolyte as rapidly as a
>conventional lead acid unit.
The new sealed lead acid batteries are typically AGM (Absorbed
Glass Mat) type. They need 13.8 to 14.2 volts from the charging system.
They are pressurized slightly and they recombine the oxygen and hydrogen
gas formed during charging and discharging. Thus, they don't use much water
and don't need topping up like flooded lead-acid batteries. AGMs prefer
higher charging voltage than do flooded lead-acid batteries.
In reality, AGM batteries are not fully charged by a typical 14.2
constant-voltage system. To fully charge these batteries, and to make them
last the longest, you need to occasionally go well above 15 volts. The very
same recombination action causes a minor problem with charging the negative
plate. It gets farther and farther behind the positive plate with each
cycle. This causes the negative plate to collect lead sulfate and slowly
become useless.
The only way to get rid of the lead sulfate (or prevent it's
formation) is to fully charge the negative plate on a regular basis. To do
this, you must bring the battery up to 15 volts until it tapers off in
current to below 0.5% of it's rated capacity. This makes a significant
difference in the cycle life of the battery. Even better, after the current
tapers off at 15 volts, you switch over to constant current at 1% of the
rated capacity for one hour. This fully charges the negative plate and
helps knock off any accumulated lead sulfate.
I sincerely doubt that anyone will build a charging system for
their airplane that will run this ideal algorithm. However, if your battery
is getting a bit "tired" you may want to take it out of the plane and give
it a couple of cycles using the method above.
Electric vehicle types have a lot more invested in our batteries,
so we are forced to learn how to make them last as long as possible with
maximum capacity. My bike http://www.killacycle.com has 26 12 volt
batteries, each very much like an RV starting battery both in capacity and cost.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: To lock or not lock canopy? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
If you're worried about someone stealing your avionics, why not just unbolt
them and take 'em with you when you have to leave the airplane outside a
locked hangar? All it takes is an Allen wrench and 30 seconds to remove
'em.
As a follow-on - If the airplane is in a locked hangar, it is as safe as it
is going to be. If a burglar can get inside a locked hangar, the canopy or
a locking mechanism isn't going to be a problem.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com>
Subject: RV-List: To lock or not lock canopy?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> I have been reading the thread about airplane security with interest. My
> personal opinion is that a lock is not a deterrent to avionics theft, but
> it may prevent the theft of a headset or something similar. My reasoning
> is that the lock will only help prevent a crime of opportunity, not a
> planned heist of avionics that will most likely occur in the middle of the
> night when there are no witnesses hanging around. If your plane is parked
> on the ramp with the canopy unlocked and your expensive headsets are in
> view, then the temptation may be too great to resist for the
> snatch-and-grabbers. Locks only keep honest people honest. The avionics
> thief knows his target from his scouting trips to the airport. He also
> knows that a locked canopy adds less than a minute to the heist, but
untold
> hours of labor for the repairs after the breakin.
> My idea is to install a locking heavy steel face plate/bar over the front
> of the radio stack which can be part of my "away" kit for trips away from
> the hangar where an overnight stay is in the works. If you want to really
> screw with the bad guys, rig a blinking L.E.D. or two to the cover plate
> with the word "armed" next to the diode. You might consider installing
one
> of these blinking diodes next to the canopy release as well. They don't
> need to be turned off, and a small battery will power them for many years.
> If you want to make an alarm sound, the rig a magnetic switch to the face
> plate (keep it away from the compass) and put an obnoxious horn wired to
> your battery with a hidden cut-off switch. When the plate is removed
> without first having turned off the switch, the magnetic switch triggers
> the horn. Bingo! You have just made a "Welfare" alarm system.
> Do Not Archive
> Don Alexander
> RV-8 or RV-8A (We will know after a few more hours behind the stick of a
> '46 Luscombe...what a sweet machine!)
> Wings
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Battery voltage, long (was: Alternator fans) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Bill, regarding properly charging the RG batteries we're all likely using,
do you know if any of this "pulse charging" technology actually works?
Here's a link to one of this type of charger...
http://www.vdcelectronics.com/batteryminder.htm
I've been using this on my Concord 25XC but of course have no idea if it's
actually preventing sulfation and extending it's life. I'd love to hear
something from some who actually knows.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 304 hrs
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Battery voltage, long (was: Alternator fans)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>
> >
> >I have also found that most internal regulators keep system voltage to
high
> >for lead acid batteries. This makes for bright lights and rapid charging
but
> >it shortens the life of the motors, lights and batteries as they are all
> >designed to be operated at 13.68 V not 14.XX V. At the higher voltage
they
> >produce more heat as they have more energy to get rid of. Some of the
newer
> >battery technology seems to be impervious to higher charging rates but I
> >haven't done much with actually testing these units in the field. I
believe
> >this is because the addiotnal current isn't translated into heat as much,
or
> >the additional heat doesn't reduce the electrolyte as rapidly as a
> >conventional lead acid unit.
>
> The new sealed lead acid batteries are typically AGM (Absorbed
> Glass Mat) type. They need 13.8 to 14.2 volts from the charging system.
> They are pressurized slightly and they recombine the oxygen and hydrogen
> gas formed during charging and discharging. Thus, they don't use much
water
> and don't need topping up like flooded lead-acid batteries. AGMs prefer
> higher charging voltage than do flooded lead-acid batteries.
>
> In reality, AGM batteries are not fully charged by a typical 14.2
> constant-voltage system. To fully charge these batteries, and to make them
> last the longest, you need to occasionally go well above 15 volts. The
very
> same recombination action causes a minor problem with charging the
negative
> plate. It gets farther and farther behind the positive plate with each
> cycle. This causes the negative plate to collect lead sulfate and slowly
> become useless.
>
> The only way to get rid of the lead sulfate (or prevent it's
> formation) is to fully charge the negative plate on a regular basis. To do
> this, you must bring the battery up to 15 volts until it tapers off in
> current to below 0.5% of it's rated capacity. This makes a significant
> difference in the cycle life of the battery. Even better, after the
current
> tapers off at 15 volts, you switch over to constant current at 1% of the
> rated capacity for one hour. This fully charges the negative plate and
> helps knock off any accumulated lead sulfate.
>
> I sincerely doubt that anyone will build a charging system for
> their airplane that will run this ideal algorithm. However, if your
battery
> is getting a bit "tired" you may want to take it out of the plane and give
> it a couple of cycles using the method above.
>
> Electric vehicle types have a lot more invested in our batteries,
> so we are forced to learn how to make them last as long as possible with
> maximum capacity. My bike http://www.killacycle.com has 26 12 volt
> batteries, each very much like an RV starting battery both in capacity and
cost.
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: To lock or not lock canopy? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
Something a friend of mine did with his car could also work for airplanes. He
had an old Thunderbird that had a factory stereo in it. He took the factory
stereo out and cut the face plate off with a band saw then held it in place
with magnets and had the good stereo hidden behind it. His ingenuity paid off
one night when 4 or 5 cars on his street had the stereos stolen from them and
his car, which he neglected to lock, was untouched. It would be a bit more
work to make a fully equipped radio stack look like one with just an old com
radio, but well worth the effort if it makes your plane an undesirable target
to the five finger discount crowd.
Not near as fun as my previous idea, but a lot less likely to have the police
show up at your door.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Rocket vs Extra 300S |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Below are the specs for the Extra 300S and below that, those for the F1 Rocket
/ Harmon Rocket II
Engine: Lycoming
Model Number: AE10-540-L1B5
Max. Power: 330 hp (as modified by Barrett Performance Aircraft)
Propeller: 3-blade constant speed MT Propeller
Landing Gear: Fixed taildragger
Crew: 1
Seats: 1
Length: 21.82 ft.
Height: 8.6 ft.
Wingspan: 24.6 ft.
Wing area: 112.38 sq. ft.
Max. Landing Weight: 2,028 lbs.
Aerobatic Weight: 1,808 lbs.
Std. emtpy weight: 1,342 lbs.
Max. usable fuel: 55 U.S. gal.
Max. cruise: 185 knots
Max. maneuvering speed: 158 knots
Max. climb rate: >4,000 ft./min.
Max. roll rate: 420 deg./sec.
Max. G load: +/- 10 G
VNE: 220 KIAS
VNO: 158 KIAS
VA: 112 KIAS
VR: 70 KIAS
VY: 80 KIAS
Max. glide: 80 KIAS
Approach no engine: 70 KIAS
VSO: 55 KIAS
Approach speed: 90 KIAS
VREF: ~70 KIAS
Rocket Specs.
Top Speed.............................................................250 mph
Cruise Speed.......................................................230 mph
...........( TAS @ 10,000MSL @ 60% power)..............
Stall Speed............................................................54 mph
Range @ 55% power........................................1000 sm
Rate of Climb @ Sea Level.............................3500 fpm
Takeoff Distance.................................................300 ft
Landing Distance................................................700 ft
Engine Used...............................................Lycoming IO-540
HP/HP Range......................................................250-300+
Fuel Capacity......................................................52 gals
Empty Weight.....................................................1200lbs
Gross Weight.......................................................2000 lbs
Length....................................................................21 ft
Wing Span............................................................21' 10"
Wing Area............................................................104 sq ft
No. of Seats...........................................................2
Landing Gear......................................................tailwheel
Building Materials.............................................Metal
Building Time.....(Quick build)............800-1200 man-hrs
Building Time.....(Parts Kit)..........Aprox.. 2000 man-hrs
-------------------Depending on experiance-----------------
G Limit..................................................................+6 -3
g
I'm not saying that I wouldn't like to have an Extra 300S, but the Rocket compares
very favorably to the Extra at about 1/3 the cost. Plus, the Rocket carries
2 people!
Just Dreaming
DOC
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hello:
I am ready to start riveting the top forward skin
it will not be possible to use regular rivets all thru;
so I will have to use pop rivets..
Question, what is the exact description, no. etc.
of the ones I should use. Is this a structural section
if so It must be a special kind to accept the streess
etc..
Comments and information always appreciated
Bert
rv6a
Working and working...
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
I have looked around auto stores around here, to see
if I found a Vacumm test, gauge...with no luck...
From pep boys, to Sears, to Discount auto, this town
does not have many things one need..
I would like to test the static system, before
closing the to skin. It is so much easier now...
Any suggestions..
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tow bar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <Larygagnon@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-6 tow bar
> --> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
>
> I've just started pulling my RV 6 into and out of my hanger and because
space
> is tight wanted to use a tow bar.
I made a simple inexpensive towbar to push or pull my rv-4 which has a
non-swivelling tail wheel. I drilled a 3/16" hole in each end of the bolt
that is the axle for the tailwheel to a depth of about 1/4". I made a
wishbone shaped towbar out of thinwall 1/2" 4130 steel that has a short
piece of 3/16" solid rod welded on each side to engage the holes in the
aforementioned bolt. It has functioned flawlessly for 10 years.
Ivan Haecker rv-4 901 hrs So.Cen. TX
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Bert,
Cherry-max rivets are the ticket here. All you need to do is look in your
Aircraft Spruce catalog, make sure you understand what grip length to order,
and buy the number you need. They are structural rivets, and they ain't
particularly cheap. I used a dozen or so of 'em on my front fuse top skin.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: pop rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hello:
>
> I am ready to start riveting the top forward skin
> it will not be possible to use regular rivets all thru;
> so I will have to use pop rivets..
> Question, what is the exact description, no. etc.
> of the ones I should use. Is this a structural section
> if so It must be a special kind to accept the streess
> etc..
>
>
> Comments and information always appreciated
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> Working and working...
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Test Vacum... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Bert;
My suggestion would be to try and locate an oversize syringe or hypodermic
needle around the 200 c.c. or so size. (You might have luck in a well
stocked drug store, a medical supplies store, or possibly a friend who works
in a hospital - they toss lots of these things out.)
A bit of ingenuity with some plastic tube will be needed to connect it to
your system. Try some modeling clay molded around the tubing placed against
a static port if you want to check the whole circuit. Push the plunger in,
make the connection and pull the plunger slowly out to apply vacuum. Do the
reverse if you want to apply pressure to the pitot tube.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, Man
RV-3 (fly occasionally)
RV-6A (taxiing now - fly soon)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: Test Vacum...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
>
> I have looked around auto stores around here, to see
> if I found a Vacumm test, gauge...with no luck...
> From pep boys, to Sears, to Discount auto, this town
> does not have many things one need..
>
> I would like to test the static system, before
> closing the to skin. It is so much easier now...
>
> Any suggestions..
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Bert
>
>
> rv6a
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO
<Brock.Vaughn@hanscom.af.mil>
>
> Jeff,
>
> Sorry I did not have time to write more clearly. Short, choppy is about all
I have time for lately.
>
> Air Force flying: Where there is a will, there is a way... In my day I was
one of 4 selected in the state (TN) of 2500 applicants. I'm not very smart and
got selected. Now days if you have a pulse and two marbles you are fighter
bound. My peer group is now the instructor corps in the AF now and definitely
agree. That eye crap you wrote of is BS. It seems you research or drive to
fly is not what it takes at first read. Reads like a slacker with an excuse.
Back to the point... The real challenge is going the civil route. Damn near
everyone I know is a pilot for the majors and all of them agree the civil route
is extremely difficult compared to the military. You should at least call me
or do some research and I'll give you a few pointers you don't read about.
>
> I want to help you if I can and since you want to fly an RV (who can argue that),
I'll give you an option I am using. Lets talk cheap flying. Anyone out
there let me know if you can beat this. I bought into a RV-3 for $5K, I pay
of the fixed cost (MX, condition inspection and hanger and 50% of insurance cost
which is $450 a year). I fly out of the base so I have access to a one hell
of a MX shop with tools for days, a heated hanger, 2 A&Ps and one IA. The Boston
FSDO is on field and gives me a once over every so often, and let me just
state my stuff is in a pile IAW the FAA. My co owner (whom I met in the CAP;
more cheap flying) and I are good friends and get along better than any other
shared airplane I have heard of.
>
> Pay attention to this part. I fly for $20-25 an hour. Well... ...not exactly.
Except for one detail. We paid $5K in MX last year for 150 hours of flight
time due to unforeseen MX items (radio failure, taxi accident, exhaust replacement,
prop replacement). That adds $33 an hour to cost totaling $53-58 an
hour of flight time. I worked on the plane 4-5 hours per flying hour just to
keep it in shape. My time is roughly worth $50-75 an hour to me. My last condition
inspection included removing all the jugs from the engine and removing
the wings for starters. The tank, canopy, instruments, brakes, electrical system,
gear soon followed. It took a month and would have cost another $4K. Do
you have the resources and know how? All that added up is $76-101 an hour for
a $20K RV-3.
>
> The only people who think flying is cheap are people who do not own a plane and
want justification to own one. Those that own a plane (or two) know all to
well the real cost of flying. I did not add the cost of the $32K kit sitting
in my living room which will some day return my investment if the stars are aligned
and the Gods are smiling.
>
> The largest disservice anyone can do is making an uninformed decision. You wrote
you love to fly, you are doing nothing to get there soon. Building is a
far cry from flying and actually more expensive. Play devils advocate with yourself
and find all the flaws and have a plan for them. My love for flying is
real and proven in the fact I own a RV-3 (the best RV ever designed according
to Vans himself) and I am building a plane in my house to be completed in May.
There is a reason only a few people have the privilege to fly. There is a
reason there are 8000 kits sold and only 3000 flying. If you need encouragement
to buy a plane I would guess you are destine for failure. If you use your
head and plan you are destine to do formation loops in a year or so with a small
group of great guys who have proven that flying is more than a desire and
made it happen.
>
>
> BROCK VAUGHN
> Office 781 377-7843 Fax 5776 (DSN 478) Home 781 354-6656
>
>
I still think that you are misleading, I really don't thank that anyone
that builds for the FUN of it considers their time at $50-$75.00 hour.
that would be ridiculous. Also it sounds like maybe you have a lemon of
an airplane if you do 4-5 hours of mechanical labor for each hour of
flight. I would imagine that Van has sold more than 8000 kits, and you
are right there are many that are not being built. There are also many
being finished and that 3000+ number is/well grow very fast in the near
future. There are so many RVs being built and taking to the air that I
was told the flyin people are going to start spraying the grounds before
a flyin so they well stop breeding. (g)
Jerry
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Test Vacum... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Check out NAPA Auto online. Balkamp Part# 7001068 $34.99 Vac & Pressure
tester, hand operated. Do Not Archive
KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: Test Vacum...
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Rocket vs Extra 300S |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I have flown both, well actually an Extra 300L (which has 2 seats) and the
Extra is a Wonderful airplane! So is the Rocket. For all but the hardcore
acro types, and those who need a certified airplane, the Rocket is clearly
the hands down favorite.
But if you want to Lump, snap, square loop, rolling 360, or charge someone
to fly with you, then you need an Extra.... and $300K.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal RV-4
I wanna Rocket!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers"
<DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
>
> I'm not saying that I wouldn't like to have an Extra 300S, but the Rocket
compares very favorably to the Extra at about 1/3 the cost. Plus, the Rocket
carries 2 people!
>
> Just Dreaming
> DOC
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
I just wanted to let everyone know the Dynon is flying.
I have had it installed for 4 weeks now and absolutely love it! The attitude
indication is so accurate that it is hard to believe. I replaced a vacuum
pump, attitude and directional gyro and VSI with the Dynon, leaving the
airspeed and altimeter in the panel as backup.
I have taken the Dynon out on many flights simply to see at what point it
will loose attitude reference. Well, I am still waiting. Fact is, I have
been unable to upset it, no matter what I do. I am not talking about the
occasional light roll. I am talking about every aerobatic maneuver me and my
plane do, one after another after another non stop for 15 minutes. 4g pulls,
triple rolls, hammer heads, loops, Cuban eight's etc......
And for those that think a light standard rate turn is the real test, give
me a break! If anyone has dealt with a manufacturer of an AHRS system that
couldn't hold a standard rate turn, they shouldn't walk away from that
manufacturer, THEY SHOULD RUN!
I am here to tell you, the DYNON unit is the real deal. I have tested this
sucker non-stop standard rate turn for 2520 degrees or seven 360 degree
turns, then switched direction for an additional 4-360 degree standard rate
turns. Not once has the Dynon shown any ill effects. I have been with it
cross country for 30 hours, in and out of the soup flying IFR quite often,
and the Dynon is extremely able.
Here is what I got for my $2000.
Glass Artificial Horizon
Glass Airspeed
Glass Altimeter
Glass VSI
Glass G-Meter
Glass Heading Gyro
Glass Turn and Bank
Glass Clock
Glass Timer
Glass Volt Meter
Altitude Encoder
No Vacuum pump kit
Add it up and the $2000 price tag is an incredible deal.
All of this packaged in a nice size screen with a unit that will slip into a
standard 3-1/8" hole.
The people at Dynon are great to work with and are currently correcting
small software bugs as more and more units get into the air. Things like,
keep alive power not storing some screen presentations correctly. Or the
clock time is reset without a backup internal battery. (Small stuff that has
already been fixed with software updates)
I don't have an affiliation with the company, just an extremely happy
customer, glad to pass on the news that $6000 is way to much for this type
of unit, unlike what the other manufacturers will lead you to believe.
Paul Stratman
RV-6A N21PS 310 hrs in 14 months
"Taylor Maid"
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO <Brock.Vaughn@hanscom.af.mil>
>
> Jeff,
>
> Sorry I did not have time to write more clearly. Short, choppy is about all
I have time for lately.
>
> Air Force flying: Where there is a will, there is a way... In my day I was
one of 4 selected in the state (TN) of 2500 applicants. I'm not very smart and
got selected. Now days if you have a pulse and two marbles you are fighter
bound. My peer group is now the instructor corps in the AF now and definitely
agree. That eye crap you wrote of is BS. It seems you research or drive to
fly is not what it takes at first read. Reads like a slacker with an excuse.
Back to the point... The real challenge is going the civil route. Damn near
everyone I know is a pilot for the majors and all of them agree the civil route
is extremely difficult compared to the military. You should at least call me
or do some research and I'll give you a few pointers you don't read about.
>
> I want to help you if I can and since you want to fly an RV (who can argue that),
I'll give you an option I am using. Lets talk cheap flying. Anyone out
there let me know if you can beat this.
> I fly an RV3 for FREE. He usually puts the gas in it too. I help him with the
Annual. His hangar is right behind mine but we don't have a door between them
yet. That will make it real easy for me . Phil (he will probably read this
and cut me off, but last week he invited me to take it to the Kansas City RV
thingy because he has a new girl friend who is taking all his RV time)
>
> I bought into a RV-3 for $5K, I pay of the fixed cost (MX, condition inspection
and hanger and 50% of insurance cost which is $450 a year). I fly out of
the base so I have access to a one hell of a MX shop with tools for days, a heated
hanger, 2 A&Ps and one IA. The Boston FSDO is on field and gives me a once
over every so often, and let me just state my stuff is in a pile IAW the FAA.
My co owner (whom I met in the CAP; more cheap flying) and I are good friends
and get along better than any other shared airplane I have heard of.
>
> Pay attention to this part. I fly for $20-25 an hour. Well... ...not exactly.
Except for one detail. We paid $5K in MX last year for 150 hours of flight
time due to unforeseen MX items (radio failure, taxi accident, exhaust replacement,
prop replacement). That adds $33 an hour to cost totaling $53-58 an
hour of flight time. I worked on the plane 4-5 hours per flying hour just to
keep it in shape. My time is roughly worth $50-75 an hour to me. My last condition
inspection included removing all the jugs from the engine and removing
the wings for starters. The tank, canopy, instruments, brakes, electrical system,
gear soon followed. It took a month and would have cost another $4K. Do
you have the resources and know how? All that added up is $76-101 an hour for
a $20K RV-3.
>
> The only people who think flying is cheap are people who do not own a plane and
want justification to own one. Those that own a plane (or two) know all to
well the real cost of flying. I did not add the cost of the $32K kit sitting
in my living room which will some day return my investment if the stars are aligned
and the Gods are smiling.
>
> The largest disservice anyone can do is making an uninformed decision. You wrote
you love to fly, you are doing nothing to get there soon. Building is a
far cry from flying and actually more expensive. Play devils advocate with yourself
and find all the flaws and have a plan for them. My love for flying is
real and proven in the fact I own a RV-3 (the best RV ever designed according
to Vans himself) and I am building a plane in my house to be completed in May.
There is a reason only a few people have the privilege to fly. There is a
reason there are 8000 kits sold and only 3000 flying. If you need encouragement
to buy a plane I would guess you are destine for failure. If you use your
head and plan you are destine to do formation loops in a year or so with a small
group of great guys who have proven that flying is more than a desire and
made it happen.
>
> BROCK VAUGHN
> Office 781 377-7843 Fax 5776 (DSN 478) Home 781 354-6656
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently |
poor power.
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 18:47 2003-04-22 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 4/22/2003 5:14:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, Jerry2DT
>writes:
>
> > Regardless of MP, regardless of mixture, any prop turning 2700 is going
> to be
> > thrusting like crazy, unless it's in zero pitch. Assuming this guy's
> prop had
> > effective pitch, say at the low stops even, at 2700 the prop had to be
> > yanking the plane hard. Sumpin' else is fishy here, maybe
> > like the numbers...
>
>Wait I want to get on this dead horse also...
>
>Try this,
>
>Go fly the plane in level flight and full power at 2700 RPM. Now pull the
>power until the prop drops below 2700 RPM and notice the power setting
>that it takes in flight to get 2700 RPM.
>
>Try it in a 500fpm climb..
>
>You are going to find that the prop is way off the fine pitch stop when
>you are going 120mph and climbing at full power. If your engine had only
>100hp you are still going to get the 2700rpm but the prop will be a lot
>less pitch=less thrust to get the 2700RPM.
>
>Rob Hickman
>N401RH (RV4 180HP CS Prop)
Thanks Rob! I needed someone to bail me out!
Simply and accurately put, this demonstrates the power vs thrust vs pitch
for the CS. The reduced power that Rob described is equivalent to the
reduced power due to an extreme over rich mixture that the original post
described.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 39
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| Subject: | RV with apparently low power |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Sam,
<snip>
Ahhhhh..........I don't think so. The real problem with the original
post that started this thread was the 27-ish" of manifold pressure that
was stated. If you have 2700 rpm and ~27" MAP, a LOT of power is being
generated regardless of what kind of propeller is installed. That is why
many repliers have questioned the numbers stated originally because they
just don't add up.<snip>
I have read your posts for years. I respect you totally. As one who
purchased his RV fully built, I defer to your expertise in almost all
circumstances. You have forgoten more about aircraft construction and
maintenance than I will probably ever know, but . . here, I think you're
wrong.
This rambling, but I think it will make sense eventually.
I had a physics professor who was an absolute gearhead. He and his kids
used to go to Englishtown NJ and drag race on weekends. When he found out I
built my own engines for my race bikes we started to talk a lot about
physics and engines. He had 2 cardinal rules.
1) Nature has no square edged curves. Think about it. This is HUGE, HUGE.
one small application is the idea that as you lean out an engine it runs
hotter, then begins to run cooler again gradually. GRADUALLY nothing is
stair stepped in nature. (unless it changes states solid to liquid, etc)
2) Use the "ad absurdum" method to find the ends, then interpolate.
Extremes are usually easy to predict. When we know the result at extreme
conditions, it can assist us in figuring things out. Combine it with rule 1
and you get a good idea of how the universe (airplane engines
included)works. For example. If you stuffed so much fuel into an engine
that it wouldn't run (rich), would it be hot or cold? cold obviously. If
you put so much air into an engine that it wouldn't run , would it be hot or
cold. (lean) Well since its not running, it is cold. Somewhere in the
middle of those two absurd scenarios, your engine runs, makes power and
makes heat. So what we have is a curve that at full rich is ambient, at
full lean is ambient and somewhere in the middle is peak. (Just where the
peak falls with respect to stoichiometric (sp?) ratio is something that real
experts discuss, out of my league.)
What this has to do with the issue at hand it Sam's statement that if the
engine is turning 2700 and has 27 mp it must be making power. Well first
lets remember that an engine that is not running reads somewhere around 30
inches of manifold pressure. Interesting thought, but this doesn't really
stand up because rpm is 0.
What mp measures is the amount of air that the throttle lets into the
engine. NOT the amount of properly metered air fuel mixture. (which is
what is required to make power) The idea that MP relates to power ASSUMES a
whole number of things.
1) Engine is running on all 4 cylinders - my ad absurdum sparkplug example
from a week ago.
2) Mixture at or near best power - Try this one, those of you with constant
speed props. Set up your plane in a steady climb. Pick a reasonably sedate
pitch to keep temps in line. Now begin pulling back on the mixture. The
engine will eventually lose power. But the prop governor will compensate
for this by flattening the prop. THE MP WILL NOT CHANGE. (This is a
function of outside pressure, engine rpm, and throttle position, none of
which has changed) What will change is airspeed and/or climb rate,
depending on how the pilot adjusts for he decreased power.
3) No significant leakage of combustion pressures.
4,5,etc) a whole bunch of other items that I'm not smart enough to think of.
Reasonable internal friction is one of them.
I am by no means saying that MP is useless, it is just not the end all be
all when it comes to power measurement. Power is force times speed, or in
our case torque x rpm. We can't measure that in our aircraft. So we use MP
to effectively measure torque. In a properly running engine this works
great. More MP means more air, more air means more air/fuel mixture. More
air/fuel mixture means higher combustion chamber pressures (BMEP). Higher
combustion chamber pressure means more torque. If RPM is held constant
(constant speed prop), then more torque means more power.
Lots of assumptions there.
I'm rambling here, so here's the bottom line:
force x speed = power
torque x rpm = power
If the engine can't make enough torque to maintain the rpm the governor is
set for, it adjusts pitch to decrease torque (and therefore power) required
to maintain a given rpm.
This same physics professor once asked me what it takes for an engine to
run. I answered "fuel, air, compression, and spark" close he said. Then he
reminded me that an engine needed "fuel and air IN THE PROPER PROPORTION,
compression, and spark AT THE PROPER TIME"
(This guy also had a great engineer's sense of humor. When I was having a
hard time bleeding the air out of my brakes, I asked "what's the best way to
set up brakes to get the air out of them. He told me I should assemble my
brakes in a swimming pool of brake fluid, but I digress)
Interestingly enough, our turboprop friends measure torque and rpm to figure
out how much power they are making. . . hmmm.
This has been really rambling and I apologize, but I just feel the need to
open my big, opinionated mouth.
Like someone stated earlier. Fixed pitch prop is a different story all
together. If power goes down, then rpm goes down. (torque AND rpm change
with power provided) End of story.
I hope I've contributed something to this discussion.
Oh yeah like I said last week, mp combined with fuel flow, EGT and CHT would
definitively tell you what was going on.
Don Mei
(Rank novice with this aircraft stuff, but a physics and engine geek)
p.s. Yes I screwed up on the carb ice example last week.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy locks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
Hello Yall
I have also been following this thread with interest. I feel that a lock
would offer little true security on my 8. I would rather call the insurance
company with a radio loss than a vandalism claim along with the theft.
Installing a canopy cover is the best deterrent. The opportunistic thief
will not steal what they can not see.
I assume that the majority of RV's are hangered like mine. There is little
chance of a thief targeting RV's as easy pickins if they are all locked up
in hangers.
The only time mine is left out is when on a trip. At large airports it is
usually in a hanger or at an all night FBO. If at an out of the way strip
the
radio and transponder are pulled and locked up along with everything
else in the front baggage compartment and the canopy cover is installed.
(one advantage with the 8's)
It would be interesting to hear from others that have been vandalized.
What was stolen, where was the plane, was there a lock, was a cover
installed, where the thiefs ever caught, etc. Any occurences would be
of use.
George Meketa
RV8, N444TX, 300.4 hours
> Sorry for the late reply to this, but I've been out of town and just read
the
> list. I'm building an 8A for the first time so I'm new to the RV stuff,
but I'm
> very familiar with security issues and crime (a little opinionated too).
And
> I just have to say something.
> I read with interest the entries from Larry Pardue, Scott Bilinski and
Kyle
> Boatwright last week concerning the issue of locking your canopy or
> not. I understand your reasoning that leaving the canopy unlocked will
> save you some time and money if your electronics are stolen. The thief
> leaves the canopy and airframe undamaged, but gets the avionics.
> Insurance pays either way, but you save the time and trouble of
> rebuilding the airframe. Your reasoning, however, is flawed.
> The scenario MAY play out that way, and you feel like you got a break
> that the scumbag didn't damage your canopy. But what about when you
> replace the avionics? MANY times these turds will wait for you to
> replace the stolen equipment with insurance money, then come back and
> steal the new equipment too. And even if they don't come back
> themselves, they spread the word to their dirtbag friends about the
> "easy" time they had ripping you off. Maybe the friends come and rip
> you off. Again, insurance pays off for you, but one criminal act
> perpetrated another.
> But besides all of that, why make it easy for these mopes? Most crimes
> are crimes of opportunity. It is easier to find a plane with the canopy
> unlocked than to try to break into the canopy AND steal the avionics.
> And if they have to break into the canopy or defeat the lock, just maybe
> they will make enough noise or it will make them stay at the scene long
> enough to draw attention to themselves. Maybe the ###hole got away
> just because he wasn't delayed by a lock. Maybe he continues to rip of
> other RVs because yours was easy.
> I hate to draw this analogy, and I hope the ladies will forgive me - but
> your thinking is kinda like a woman facing a rapist. She may choose to
> not resist and do as told in the hope that the rapist will "ONLY" rape her
> and not beat or kill her. Or she may fight, kick, scream and do what she
> can to ward him off. In doing so she risks enraging the rapist or she may
> scare him off and remain relatively unscathed. There are proponents of
> both courses of action, and each person makes their own choice. My
> wife Terri once faced a guy coming in her kitchen window in the middle
> of the night. She scared the guy off before he ever touched her, but she
> vows never to be a compliant victim. She WILL kick and scream (and
> shoot).
> My point here is - don't make it any easier for these scumbags than you
> have to. Each person has to be involved and do what you can to stop
> and/or prevent crime. You HAVE to be involved! I'm a firm believer in
> AOPA's "Airport Watch" program. I'm a firm believer in Neighborhood
> Watches - I've seen them work. Risk your canopy but know you won't
> be an easy victim. And if you catch one of these guys in the act - beat
> the HELL out of him. Civilians can do that, I can't.
> BTW - I'm working on my canopy (love that fiberglass) and I've been
> racking my thought processes on a canopy lock. I will have one.
Message 41
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| Subject: | Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Thanks for the glowing report. Where did you mount the compass module?
I hope to place my order soon.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
>
> I just wanted to let everyone know the Dynon is flying.
>
> I have had it installed for 4 weeks now and absolutely love
> it! The attitude indication is so accurate that it is hard to
> believe. I replaced a vacuum pump, attitude and directional
> gyro and VSI with the Dynon, leaving the airspeed and
> altimeter in the panel as backup.
>
> I have taken the Dynon out on many flights simply to see at
> what point it will loose attitude reference. Well, I am still
> waiting. Fact is, I have been unable to upset it, no matter
> what I do. I am not talking about the occasional light roll.
> I am talking about every aerobatic maneuver me and my plane
> do, one after another after another non stop for 15 minutes.
> 4g pulls, triple rolls, hammer heads, loops, Cuban eight's etc......
>
> And for those that think a light standard rate turn is the
> real test, give me a break! If anyone has dealt with a
> manufacturer of an AHRS system that couldn't hold a standard
> rate turn, they shouldn't walk away from that manufacturer,
> THEY SHOULD RUN!
>
> I am here to tell you, the DYNON unit is the real deal. I
> have tested this sucker non-stop standard rate turn for 2520
> degrees or seven 360 degree turns, then switched direction
> for an additional 4-360 degree standard rate turns. Not once
> has the Dynon shown any ill effects. I have been with it
> cross country for 30 hours, in and out of the soup flying IFR
> quite often, and the Dynon is extremely able.
>
> Here is what I got for my $2000.
>
> Glass Artificial Horizon
> Glass Airspeed
> Glass Altimeter
> Glass VSI
> Glass G-Meter
> Glass Heading Gyro
> Glass Turn and Bank
> Glass Clock
> Glass Timer
> Glass Volt Meter
> Altitude Encoder
> No Vacuum pump kit
>
> Add it up and the $2000 price tag is an incredible deal.
> All of this packaged in a nice size screen with a unit that
> will slip into a standard 3-1/8" hole. The people at Dynon
> are great to work with and are currently correcting small
> software bugs as more and more units get into the air. Things
> like, keep alive power not storing some screen presentations
> correctly. Or the clock time is reset without a backup
> internal battery. (Small stuff that has already been fixed
> with software updates)
>
> I don't have an affiliation with the company, just an
> extremely happy customer, glad to pass on the news that $6000
> is way to much for this type of unit, unlike what the other
> manufacturers will lead you to believe.
>
> Paul Stratman
> RV-6A N21PS 310 hrs in 14 months
> "Taylor Maid"
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I will soon be doing this on my RV-7, and I'm curious in which spots using
solid rivets is an impossibility. Just want to get a heads-up so I'm not
surprised when I hit it.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pop rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
> Bert,
>
> Cherry-max rivets are the ticket here. All you need to do is look in your
> Aircraft Spruce catalog, make sure you understand what grip length to
order,
> and buy the number you need. They are structural rivets, and they ain't
> particularly cheap. I used a dozen or so of 'em on my front fuse top
skin.
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: pop rivets
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> >
> > Hello:
> >
> > I am ready to start riveting the top forward skin
> > it will not be possible to use regular rivets all thru;
> > so I will have to use pop rivets..
> > Question, what is the exact description, no. etc.
> > of the ones I should use. Is this a structural section
> > if so It must be a special kind to accept the streess
> > etc..
> >
> >
> > Comments and information always appreciated
> >
> >
> > Bert
> >
> > rv6a
> >
> > Working and working...
> >
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
> http://isp.BlueLight.com
> >
> >
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Test Vacum... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
Go to Sears and get their tool catalog. There is one in there. Or call a
NAPA parts store and tell them you want a hand held vacuum pump(Mityvac). Or
go to Eastwoods.com and search for vacuum or JCwhitney.com. One of these
should do it.
Best reguards
Craig
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: Test Vacum...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
>
> I have looked around auto stores around here, to see
> if I found a Vacumm test, gauge...with no luck...
> From pep boys, to Sears, to Discount auto, this town
> does not have many things one need..
>
> I would like to test the static system, before
> closing the to skin. It is so much easier now...
>
> Any suggestions..
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Bert
>
>
> rv6a
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Impossible may be too strong a word. However, there were locations (for
instance along the side longerons where they attach to the sub-panel) where
I simply couldn't get a bucking bar to fit.
I probably could have smashed rivets in some or all of the places where I
used the cherry-max rivets, but I was convinced that the degree of
difficulty made setting a "good" rivet problematic at best.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pop rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I will soon be doing this on my RV-7, and I'm curious in which spots using
> solid rivets is an impossibility. Just want to get a heads-up so I'm not
> surprised when I hit it.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: pop rivets
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Bert,
> >
> > Cherry-max rivets are the ticket here. All you need to do is look in
your
> > Aircraft Spruce catalog, make sure you understand what grip length to
> order,
> > and buy the number you need. They are structural rivets, and they ain't
> > particularly cheap. I used a dozen or so of 'em on my front fuse top
> skin.
> >
> > KB
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: pop rivets
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> > >
> > > Hello:
> > >
> > > I am ready to start riveting the top forward skin
> > > it will not be possible to use regular rivets all thru;
> > > so I will have to use pop rivets..
> > > Question, what is the exact description, no. etc.
> > > of the ones I should use. Is this a structural section
> > > if so It must be a special kind to accept the streess
> > > etc..
> > >
> > >
> > > Comments and information always appreciated
> > >
> > >
> > > Bert
> > >
> > > rv6a
> > >
> > > Working and working...
> > >
> > >
> > > Do Not Archive
> > >
> > > Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
> > http://isp.BlueLight.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Yaesu Aviator Pilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
I've had this Yaesu handheld navcom for about three years as a backup and (fortunately)
had little occasion to use it to transmit. A couple of weeks ago whilst
providing ground support to a gliding friend I attempted to use this radio.
Receive is fine but Xmit produces a loud 'scream' on any radio on the frequency.
This was tested with three different antennas on the Yaesu and three different
receiving radios.
Does anyone on the list have a similar experience with these radios and what are
suggested solutions? Return to Yaesu?
Thanks
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
Message 46
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| Subject: | Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Hi listers,
I have used the eyeball bulkhead with 6 tiny screws on my throttle and mixture
cables at the firewall before. I understand that Avery has a "new style" that
only uses one threaded fitting to attach. I haven't seen one so I don't know
how it is suppose to work. Has anyone used this on your firewall and what do
you think of it?
Thanks, Rick Fogerson
RV3 finish kit
Boise, ID
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Rocket vs Extra 300S |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Humor - Non RV related - Delete Now if not interested
do not archive
> I have flown both, well actually an Extra 300L
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal RV-4
> I wanna Rocket!
I still hate you for all the different types of planes you get to fly.
(For newbies on the list, Doug and I have a contest to see who hates the
other the most.)
AND I BUILT AND FLY A ROCKET. :-)
Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
Harmon Rocket FLYING 120 hours
Retired USAF Major
F-4G Instructor Pilot and Wild Weasel
PS. - The Air Force and Navy Pilots with GPS and Laser Guided Bombs
killed so many tanks, etc., that there was no organized force for the army
to fight. Still, the Air Force has never controlled any ground. My hats
off to the Army and Marine guys and gals who still had to fight man to man
on the way to victory. Their actions sure made me proud to once have been
a member of a proud fighting force.
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re:Late reply to plane new RV with apparently poor power. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/22/2003 11:59:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bj034@lafn.org writes:
> The mechanical stops on the prop will only set the STATIC rpm of the engine
> on the
> ground - they will not stop the engine from overspeed in flight, only the
> governor
> will do that.
Yes, I fully understand. It was takeoff rpm I was referring to. That
required readjustment (listed in Hartzell Manual 115N Rev 7 page 4-4) of the
low pitch stop to prevent the overspeed early in the first 10 hours of
testing. Since making the readjustment there has never been an issue during
takeoff or in-flight.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 598hrs)
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Test Vacum... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Just happened to have a Sears Tools Catalog (ID# 02T20111). Page 78, part#
30092, $99.99 (less than a 'undred dollars 8+{ ) It's a "Kal Equip Vacuum
Pump and Brake Bleed Kit." and is a Catalog Only item.
www.sears.com/craftsman 1-800-377-7414 Do Not Archive KABONG
> Go to Sears and get their tool catalog. There is one in there. Or call a
> NAPA parts store and tell them you want a hand held vacuum pump(Mityvac).
Or
> go to Eastwoods.com and search for vacuum or JCwhitney.com. One of these
> should do it.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Test Vacum...
Message 50
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Rob...
Hmmm... except this guy said "wide open throttle"... I guess if it was
pumping excess fuel in, displacing oxygen, leaving a trail of black soot...
that might be kinda like throttling it, I guess... maybe...Oh well, you're
probably right. :)
Jerry Cochran
<<Wait I want to get on this dead horse also...
Try this,
Go fly the plane in level flight and full power at 2700 RPM. Now pull the
power
until the prop drops below 2700 RPM and notice the power setting that it takes
in flight to get 2700 RPM.
Try it in a 500fpm climb..
You are going to find that the prop is way off the fine pitch stop when you
are
going 120mph and climbing at full power. If your engine had only 100hp you
are
still going to get the 2700rpm but the prop will be a lot less pitch=less
thrust
to get the 2700RPM.
Rob Hickman
N401RH (RV4 180HP CS Prop)>>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Great to see your post to this list Paul.
I mentioned that things were going well with you and the Dynon unit earlier
on this list. Glad you didn't make a liar out of me. :-)
Curious question for me (and the list I guess) ... How long did the
"conversion" (installation) from your vacuum based system to the Dynon take?
James
p.s. Hope to see ya in front of the Thunderbirds in Greenville on Saturday!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Stratman
> Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 11:16 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
>
> I just wanted to let everyone know the Dynon is flying.
>
> I have had it installed for 4 weeks now and absolutely love it!
> The attitude
> indication is so accurate that it is hard to believe. I replaced a vacuum
> pump, attitude and directional gyro and VSI with the Dynon, leaving the
> airspeed and altimeter in the panel as backup.
>
> I have taken the Dynon out on many flights simply to see at what point it
> will loose attitude reference. Well, I am still waiting. Fact is, I have
> been unable to upset it, no matter what I do. I am not talking about the
> occasional light roll. I am talking about every aerobatic
> maneuver me and my
> plane do, one after another after another non stop for 15
> minutes. 4g pulls,
> triple rolls, hammer heads, loops, Cuban eight's etc......
>
> And for those that think a light standard rate turn is the real test, give
> me a break! If anyone has dealt with a manufacturer of an AHRS system that
> couldn't hold a standard rate turn, they shouldn't walk away from that
> manufacturer, THEY SHOULD RUN!
>
> I am here to tell you, the DYNON unit is the real deal. I have tested this
> sucker non-stop standard rate turn for 2520 degrees or seven 360 degree
> turns, then switched direction for an additional 4-360 degree
> standard rate
> turns. Not once has the Dynon shown any ill effects. I have been with it
> cross country for 30 hours, in and out of the soup flying IFR quite often,
> and the Dynon is extremely able.
>
> Here is what I got for my $2000.
>
> Glass Artificial Horizon
> Glass Airspeed
> Glass Altimeter
> Glass VSI
> Glass G-Meter
> Glass Heading Gyro
> Glass Turn and Bank
> Glass Clock
> Glass Timer
> Glass Volt Meter
> Altitude Encoder
> No Vacuum pump kit
>
> Add it up and the $2000 price tag is an incredible deal.
> All of this packaged in a nice size screen with a unit that will
> slip into a
> standard 3-1/8" hole.
> The people at Dynon are great to work with and are currently correcting
> small software bugs as more and more units get into the air. Things like,
> keep alive power not storing some screen presentations correctly. Or the
> clock time is reset without a backup internal battery. (Small
> stuff that has
> already been fixed with software updates)
>
> I don't have an affiliation with the company, just an extremely happy
> customer, glad to pass on the news that $6000 is way to much for this type
> of unit, unlike what the other manufacturers will lead you to believe.
>
> Paul Stratman
> RV-6A N21PS 310 hrs in 14 months
> "Taylor Maid"
>
>
Message 52
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Try this link ...
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAN45.html
Looks like: $42.92 - $52.08 (if I picked the right thing)
Hope this helps.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Starn
> Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 1:55 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Test Vacum...
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
>
> Just happened to have a Sears Tools Catalog (ID# 02T20111). Page 78, part#
> 30092, $99.99 (less than a 'undred dollars 8+{ ) It's a "Kal Equip Vacuum
> Pump and Brake Bleed Kit." and is a Catalog Only item.
> www.sears.com/craftsman 1-800-377-7414 Do Not Archive KABONG
> > Go to Sears and get their tool catalog. There is one in there. Or call a
> > NAPA parts store and tell them you want a hand held vacuum
> pump(Mityvac).
> Or
> > go to Eastwoods.com and search for vacuum or JCwhitney.com. One of these
> > should do it.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Test Vacum...
>
>
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