Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Re: Test Vacum... (Jim Jewell)
2. 01:24 AM - Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Howard Ogle)
3. 04:18 AM - Re: ICOM Battery (wes hays)
4. 04:57 AM - Re: Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style (Larry Bowen)
5. 05:04 AM - Re: pop rivets (Alex Peterson)
6. 06:14 AM - ICOM Battery (P M Condon)
7. 06:24 AM - Re: ICOM Battery (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
8. 06:27 AM - Test Vacum... (P M Condon)
9. 06:49 AM - Microair 760 VHF users (Al Grajek)
10. 06:57 AM - Re: RV with apparently low power (Sam Buchanan)
11. 07:01 AM - Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Brian Denk)
12. 07:09 AM - Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Stucklen, Frederic IFC)
13. 07:19 AM - Re: Battery voltage, long (was: Alternator fans) (Bill Dube)
14. 07:27 AM - Re: To lock or not lock canopy? (Bill Dube)
15. 07:47 AM - Re: Vans Capacitive senders (Vision micro)
16. 07:52 AM - Was... Dynon, now whiskey compass (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
17. 08:18 AM - what MAP tubing? (Knicholas2@aol.com)
18. 08:46 AM - Re: Microair 760 VHF users (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
19. 08:48 AM - Missouri fly-in (Frazier, Vincent A)
20. 08:55 AM - Re: Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style (Michael McGee)
21. 09:23 AM - Re: Was... Dynon, now whiskey compass (Doug Rozendaal)
22. 09:29 AM - Shimmy and Groan (Austin)
23. 09:36 AM - Re: Microair 760 VHF users (Bill VonDane)
24. 09:47 AM - Re: Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Doug Rozendaal)
25. 09:51 AM - Spam (Austin)
26. 09:58 AM - Re: what MAP tubing? (Paul Besing)
27. 10:01 AM - Re: Shimmy and Groan (John B. Abell)
28. 10:04 AM - Re: Spam (John B. Abell)
29. 10:25 AM - Re: Spam (Chris W)
30. 10:27 AM - Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (czechsix@juno.com)
31. 10:43 AM - Re: Shimmy and Groan (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
32. 10:47 AM - Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Joshua Siler)
33. 10:51 AM - Re: Shimmy and Groan (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
34. 10:53 AM - Re: Spam (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
35. 10:59 AM - Re: Spam (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
36. 11:05 AM - Re: Spam (Rob Prior)
37. 11:05 AM - Re: Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Craig Hiers)
38. 11:12 AM - Re: Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
39. 11:24 AM - Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Steven Eberhart)
40. 11:26 AM - Re: Shimmy and Groan (Scott Bilinski)
41. 11:50 AM - Re: Spam (Ed Zercher)
42. 11:56 AM - Re: Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal (Rob Prior)
43. 12:12 PM - Re: Spam (Kysh)
44. 12:18 PM - Re: Spam (Ed Zercher)
45. 12:24 PM - Re: Spam (Chris W)
46. 12:24 PM - Re: Microair 760 VHF users (Don Mack)
47. 12:31 PM - Re: Spam (RW)
48. 12:33 PM - Re: Spam (WPAerial@aol.com)
49. 12:41 PM - Re: Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style (Don Mack)
50. 12:59 PM - Re: Spam (Don Mack)
51. 12:59 PM - Transmit Interference (Scott Brumbelow)
52. 01:28 PM - Re: Microair 760 VHF users (Scott Vanartsdalen)
53. 01:48 PM - Re: Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style (Garry LeGare)
54. 01:50 PM - Fw: Shimmy and Groan (Elsa & Henry)
55. 02:25 PM - Shimmy And Groan (John)
56. 02:36 PM - Re: Spam (Cy Galley)
57. 02:47 PM - Re: Spam (prober@iwaynet.net)
58. 02:49 PM - Re: Spam (kempthornes)
59. 02:51 PM - Re: Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style (Bill Dube)
60. 03:19 PM - Re: Spam (Kysh)
61. 03:49 PM - Re: DIY VHF Antenna (Bartrim, Todd)
62. 03:50 PM - EAA Airventure Cup Race (John Helms)
63. 03:55 PM - alternative engines (rpmiller)
64. 04:37 PM - Flying with the Dynon-Answers (Paul Stratman)
65. 04:44 PM - Re: Spam (Austin)
66. 04:49 PM - Re: Spam (Paul Stratman)
67. 05:01 PM - Lowrance airmap 100 GPS (glenn williams)
68. 05:02 PM - Re: Test Vacum... (Bert Forero)
69. 05:03 PM - fuel tanks (glenn williams)
70. 05:25 PM - Re: Spam (Kevin Horton)
71. 05:48 PM - Re: Lowrance airmap 100 GPS (Jim Brownfield)
72. 06:08 PM - Interior Paint Tips (lots of detail) (Jordan Grant)
73. 06:24 PM - Re: Lowrance airmap 100 GPS (glenn williams)
74. 06:25 PM - DeVilbiss HVLP Gravity Feed Paint Gun Finish Line II (Jordan Grant)
75. 06:30 PM - Re: Hello (Jerry Springer)
76. 06:55 PM - Re: Shimmy and Groan (Alex Peterson)
77. 07:15 PM - Prop bushings, Buy, sell or Trade. (DEREK REED)
78. 07:38 PM - Re: Alternative Engines (j tramontano)
79. 08:31 PM - Re: Yaesu Aviator Pilot (C J Heitman)
80. 09:14 PM - Dynon EFIS D-10 report (Wheeler North)
81. 09:14 PM - Re: Spam (GW)
82. 09:53 PM - Re: Re: RV-6 tow bar (Curt Reimer)
83. 10:29 PM - Re: ICOM Battery (David Taylor)
84. 11:08 PM - Re: Spam (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Test Vacum... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Bert,
Someone in an earlier post suggested using a fairly large capacity
hypodermic needle chamber, without the needle.
Try adding to that some automotive vacuum tubing a short length of metal or
stiff walled plastic tube with a small hole drilled into it for a finger
hole and plastic a one way in line vacuum valve. Assembled in the correct
order, and given enough time a person could evacuate or pressurize a
considerable volume of area.
My guess is the cost of the parts required would not be over $15.00,
probably closer to half that.
The unit could be re-used for brake bleeding and providing low pressure for
testing Various fluid containers including fuel tanks.
Pull some vacuum,.. remove finger from over the small hole,.. bottom the
plunger,.. cover hole,.. repeat.
As a matter of fact the small hole could be drilled at the bottom of the
hypodermic pump chamber eliminating the short length of stiff wall tubing.
One type of hypodermic chamber comes with a plastic piston plunger and is
all but impervious to oil and brake fluids etc. The rubber plunger type work
fine but will not last as long stored in the tool box after use with oils
etc..
Try it, you will be quite surprised at how much air or fluid volume and
pressure either positive or negative you can move with this setup.
The larger hypodermic chambers are more readily found at the local
veterinary
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Test Vacum...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
>
> Go to Sears and get their tool catalog. There is one in there. Or call a
> NAPA parts store and tell them you want a hand held vacuum pump(Mityvac).
Or
> go to Eastwoods.com and search for vacuum or JCwhitney.com. One of these
> should do it.
>
> Best reguards
> Craig
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Test Vacum...
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> >
> > Hi:
> >
> >
> > I have looked around auto stores around here, to see
> > if I found a Vacumm test, gauge...with no luck...
> > From pep boys, to Sears, to Discount auto, this town
> > does not have many things one need..
> >
> > I would like to test the static system, before
> > closing the to skin. It is so much easier now...
> >
> > Any suggestions..
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Bert
> >
> >
> > rv6a
> >
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
> http://isp.BlueLight.com
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: Howard Ogle <pub@macrotechcorp.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
> I just wanted to let everyone know the Dynon is flying.
> I have had it installed for 4 weeks now and absolutely love it! The attitude
> indication is so accurate that it is hard to believe.
<snip>
Is the "heading Gyro" stabilized? In other words, does it fly like a DG? Or,
does it have some magnetic dip (lead or lag in turns)? I can see how Dynon
should be able to stabilize it somewhat with airspeed, altitude and AHRS
sensors. But, I just wonder how gyro like true it may be without GPS?
Thanks for the report.
Howard Ogle
Message 3
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| From: | wes hays <whays@camalott.com> (SquirrelMail authenticated user whays) by www.camalott.com with HTTP; Wed, |
23 Apr 2003 06:14:55.-0600@matronics.com (CST)
| Subject: | Re: ICOM Battery |
I would recommend you check your Interstate Battery store. They just
"reconditioned" a battery pack for a friends I-com. They said they could
replace all the batteries in the pack for around 30 bucks if the
reconditioning didn't hold, or they could sell him a new battery pack for
about $60. That sounded very reasonable since one of the aircraft supply
stores was going to charge him $150+ for a new battery pack.
Wes Hays
Winters, TX
> --> RV-List message posted by: REGAES@aol.com
>
> My backup handheld IC-A22 battery has died. Is there a good source for
> replacement batterys?
> CLYDE SEAGER
> RV4 N28CS
> PENSACOLA,FL.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Bowen <lcbowen@yahoo.com>
I'm using three of them for my cable pass-throughs. They work fine. It was a
pain enlarging the hole in the eyeball to fit the cables. Otherwise they are
fine.
-LB
--- Rick Fogerson <rickf@cableone.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
> Hi listers,
> I have used the eyeball bulkhead with 6 tiny screws on my throttle and
> mixture cables at the firewall before. I understand that Avery has a "new
> style" that only uses one threaded fitting to attach. I haven't seen one so
> I don't know how it is suppose to work. Has anyone used this on your
> firewall and what do you think of it?
> Thanks, Rick Fogerson
> RV3 finish kit
> Boise, ID
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Another angle on getting these rivets pounded is to carve access holes
in the sub-panel large enough to get one's hand through. There is not
much left of this panel in my plane - I put a lateral reinforcing angle
across the bottom of it to make up for lost strength.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 291 hours
www.rvforum.org
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 10:59 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: pop rivets
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I will soon be doing this on my RV-7, and I'm curious in
> which spots using solid rivets is an impossibility. Just
> want to get a heads-up so I'm not surprised when I hit it.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: pop rivets
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Bert,
> >
> > Cherry-max rivets are the ticket here. All you need to do
> is look in
> > your Aircraft Spruce catalog, make sure you understand what grip
> > length to
> order,
> > and buy the number you need. They are structural rivets, and they
> > ain't particularly cheap. I used a dozen or so of 'em on my front
> > fuse top
> skin.
> >
> > KB
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: pop rivets
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero"
> <bert6@mybluelight.com>
> > >
> > > Hello:
> > >
> > > I am ready to start riveting the top forward skin
> > > it will not be possible to use regular rivets all thru;
> > > so I will have to use pop rivets..
> > > Question, what is the exact description, no. etc.
> > > of the ones I should use. Is this a structural section
> > > if so It must be a special kind to accept the streess
> > > etc..
> > >
> > >
> > > Comments and information always appreciated
> > >
> > >
> > > Bert
> > >
> > > rv6a
> > >
> > > Working and working...
> > >
> > >
> > > Do Not Archive
> > >
> > > Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
> > http://isp.BlueLight.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
ICOM and other battery suppliers make a "empty", snap apart battery
cases that you populate with the Duracell AA batteries. This battery
case slides in and locks in place like the orginal ICOM battery case.I
and many others at my airport went this way and have no regrets. I get
over a year of use from the battery pack with most all weekends using
the ICOM.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: ICOM Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
most good local battery stores can dis-assemble your pack. and reassemble it with
new cells, all spot welded in series, for half or less than after market replacements.
Phil
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
Why ? IF you have one piece of tubing secured to the ribs then there
should be no issue with leaks. Continue working on closing the wing and
do the leak test later. BTW check the archives for my write-up on a 15
dollar drug store blood pressure tester converted for airspeed and Pitot
testing....
Message 9
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vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Microair 760 VHF users |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
Listers:
Is anyone out there using the Microair 760 VHF transreciever? If so, Are you
using their intercom system, and if you are, are you happy with it? I am
trying to decide whether I should use it or install a different intercom
system.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Al Grajek
RV8
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV with apparently low power |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Thanks for the reply, Don!
You really didn't need to go to so much trouble to point out my error. I
have had people prove me wrong with much less effort..... ;-)
Your argument sounds entirely reasonable and I am not going to attempt
to refute it. Obviously I have more experience with fixed pitch props
than CS and that lead me astray.
Thanks again,
Sam
==========================
Donald Mei wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> Sam,
>
> <snip>
> Ahhhhh..........I don't think so. The real problem with the original
> post that started this thread was the 27-ish" of manifold pressure that
> was stated. If you have 2700 rpm and ~27" MAP, a LOT of power is being
> generated regardless of what kind of propeller is installed. That is why
> many repliers have questioned the numbers stated originally because they
> just don't add up.<snip>
>
> I have read your posts for years. I respect you totally. As one who
> purchased his RV fully built, I defer to your expertise in almost all
> circumstances. You have forgoten more about aircraft construction and
> maintenance than I will probably ever know, but . . here, I think you're
> wrong.
>
> This rambling, but I think it will make sense eventually.
>
> I had a physics professor who was an absolute gearhead. He and his kids
> used to go to Englishtown NJ and drag race on weekends. When he found out I
> built my own engines for my race bikes we started to talk a lot about
> physics and engines. He had 2 cardinal rules.
>
> 1) Nature has no square edged curves. Think about it. This is HUGE, HUGE.
> one small application is the idea that as you lean out an engine it runs
> hotter, then begins to run cooler again gradually. GRADUALLY nothing is
> stair stepped in nature. (unless it changes states solid to liquid, etc)
>
> 2) Use the "ad absurdum" method to find the ends, then interpolate.
> Extremes are usually easy to predict. When we know the result at extreme
> conditions, it can assist us in figuring things out. Combine it with rule 1
> and you get a good idea of how the universe (airplane engines
> included)works. For example. If you stuffed so much fuel into an engine
> that it wouldn't run (rich), would it be hot or cold? cold obviously. If
> you put so much air into an engine that it wouldn't run , would it be hot or
> cold. (lean) Well since its not running, it is cold. Somewhere in the
> middle of those two absurd scenarios, your engine runs, makes power and
> makes heat. So what we have is a curve that at full rich is ambient, at
> full lean is ambient and somewhere in the middle is peak. (Just where the
> peak falls with respect to stoichiometric (sp?) ratio is something that real
> experts discuss, out of my league.)
>
> What this has to do with the issue at hand it Sam's statement that if the
> engine is turning 2700 and has 27 mp it must be making power. Well first
> lets remember that an engine that is not running reads somewhere around 30
> inches of manifold pressure. Interesting thought, but this doesn't really
> stand up because rpm is 0.
>
> What mp measures is the amount of air that the throttle lets into the
> engine. NOT the amount of properly metered air fuel mixture. (which is
> what is required to make power) The idea that MP relates to power ASSUMES a
> whole number of things.
>
> 1) Engine is running on all 4 cylinders - my ad absurdum sparkplug example
> from a week ago.
>
> 2) Mixture at or near best power - Try this one, those of you with constant
> speed props. Set up your plane in a steady climb. Pick a reasonably sedate
> pitch to keep temps in line. Now begin pulling back on the mixture. The
> engine will eventually lose power. But the prop governor will compensate
> for this by flattening the prop. THE MP WILL NOT CHANGE. (This is a
> function of outside pressure, engine rpm, and throttle position, none of
> which has changed) What will change is airspeed and/or climb rate,
> depending on how the pilot adjusts for he decreased power.
>
> 3) No significant leakage of combustion pressures.
>
> 4,5,etc) a whole bunch of other items that I'm not smart enough to think of.
> Reasonable internal friction is one of them.
>
> I am by no means saying that MP is useless, it is just not the end all be
> all when it comes to power measurement. Power is force times speed, or in
> our case torque x rpm. We can't measure that in our aircraft. So we use MP
> to effectively measure torque. In a properly running engine this works
> great. More MP means more air, more air means more air/fuel mixture. More
> air/fuel mixture means higher combustion chamber pressures (BMEP). Higher
> combustion chamber pressure means more torque. If RPM is held constant
> (constant speed prop), then more torque means more power.
>
> Lots of assumptions there.
>
> I'm rambling here, so here's the bottom line:
> force x speed = power
> torque x rpm = power
>
> If the engine can't make enough torque to maintain the rpm the governor is
> set for, it adjusts pitch to decrease torque (and therefore power) required
> to maintain a given rpm.
>
> This same physics professor once asked me what it takes for an engine to
> run. I answered "fuel, air, compression, and spark" close he said. Then he
> reminded me that an engine needed "fuel and air IN THE PROPER PROPORTION,
> compression, and spark AT THE PROPER TIME"
>
> (This guy also had a great engineer's sense of humor. When I was having a
> hard time bleeding the air out of my brakes, I asked "what's the best way to
> set up brakes to get the air out of them. He told me I should assemble my
> brakes in a swimming pool of brake fluid, but I digress)
>
> Interestingly enough, our turboprop friends measure torque and rpm to figure
> out how much power they are making. . . hmmm.
>
> This has been really rambling and I apologize, but I just feel the need to
> open my big, opinionated mouth.
>
> Like someone stated earlier. Fixed pitch prop is a different story all
> together. If power goes down, then rpm goes down. (torque AND rpm change
> with power provided) End of story.
>
> I hope I've contributed something to this discussion.
>
> Oh yeah like I said last week, mp combined with fuel flow, EGT and CHT would
> definitively tell you what was going on.
>
> Don Mei
> (Rank novice with this aircraft stuff, but a physics and engine geek)
>
> p.s. Yes I screwed up on the carb ice example last week.
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>I just wanted to let everyone know the Dynon is flying.
>
>I have had it installed for 4 weeks now and absolutely love it! The
>attitude
>indication is so accurate that it is hard to believe. I replaced a vacuum
>pump, attitude and directional gyro and VSI with the Dynon, leaving the
>airspeed and altimeter in the panel as backup.
This is great information, Paul. Thanks! I'm in the decision making stage
on purchasing a Dynon EFIS, and part of it is based on how much stuff I can
take out of my existing panel. Since it has a magnetic heading function,
can I remove the whiskey compass? Any regulatory issues that you, or any of
the other listers can think of? The EFIS has a back up battery so that it
should work for hours (as tested by a local RV6A builder with a Dynon
installed) after loss of bus power. The whiskey compass needs no power.
Das Fed says we gotta have a "compass", but will this unit conform to the
FARs as such?
The more I look at it, it appears that I'll have to cut out an entirely new
center panel overlay. The spacing between my altimeter and ASI is too
narrow for the EFIS display bezel to fit into the existing attitude
indicator hole. If the compass can go away, then it, along with the tiny
little vacuum gauge, will open up more holes elsewhere.
Decisions decisions.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
338 hrs.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Paul,
Nice report on the Dynon. I've been looking for a unit that I can use as a
primary system for IFR use, so I have a couple of questions:
1. Your testing has indicated little or no drift at standard rate turns.
What about 1/4'th standard rate turns for long periods (2520 degrees or
seven 360 degree turns)?
2. In their documentation, Dynon states "the maximum rates of change in
attitude are limited to 150 degrees/second in roll, pitch, and yaw. Aircraft
maneuvers outside this envelope may result in an inaccurate display. The
instrument will return to specified accuracy within two minutes after flight
maneuvers are inside the specified flight envelope and the aircraft is in an
attitude where the horizon is visible on the instrument's display." Have you
been able to tumble the instrument when you exceed these rates? If so, how
long did it actually take to recover?
Thanks in advance,
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV Reserved
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman"
I just wanted to let everyone know the Dynon is flying.
I have had it installed for 4 weeks now and absolutely love it! The
attitude
indication is so accurate that it is hard to believe. I replaced a
vacuum
pump, attitude and directional gyro and VSI with the Dynon, leaving
the
airspeed and altimeter in the panel as backup.
I have taken the Dynon out on many flights simply to see at what
point it
will loose attitude reference. Well, I am still waiting. Fact is, I
have
been unable to upset it, no matter what I do. I am not talking about
the
occasional light roll. I am talking about every aerobatic maneuver
me and my
plane do, one after another after another non stop for 15 minutes.
4g pulls,
triple rolls, hammer heads, loops, Cuban eight's etc......
And for those that think a light standard rate turn is the real
test, give
me a break! If anyone has dealt with a manufacturer of an AHRS
system that
couldn't hold a standard rate turn, they shouldn't walk away from
that
manufacturer, THEY SHOULD RUN!
I am here to tell you, the DYNON unit is the real deal. I have
tested this
sucker non-stop standard rate turn for 2520 degrees or seven 360
degree
turns, then switched direction for an additional 4-360 degree
standard rate
turns. Not once has the Dynon shown any ill effects. I have been
with it
cross country for 30 hours, in and out of the soup flying IFR quite
often,
and the Dynon is extremely able.
Here is what I got for my $2000.
Glass Artificial Horizon
Glass Airspeed
Glass Altimeter
Glass VSI
Glass G-Meter
Glass Heading Gyro
Glass Turn and Bank
Glass Clock
Glass Timer
Glass Volt Meter
Altitude Encoder
No Vacuum pump kit
Add it up and the $2000 price tag is an incredible deal.
All of this packaged in a nice size screen with a unit that will
slip into a
standard 3-1/8" hole.
The people at Dynon are great to work with and are currently
correcting
small software bugs as more and more units get into the air. Things
like,
keep alive power not storing some screen presentations correctly. Or
the
clock time is reset without a backup internal battery. (Small stuff
that has
already been fixed with software updates)
I don't have an affiliation with the company, just an extremely
happy
customer, glad to pass on the news that $6000 is way to much for
this type
of unit, unlike what the other manufacturers will lead you to
believe.
Paul Stratman
RV-6A N21PS 310 hrs in 14 months
"Taylor Maid"
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Battery voltage, long (was: Alternator fans) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 05:34 PM 4/22/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>
>Bill, regarding properly charging the RG batteries we're all likely using,
>do you know if any of this "pulse charging" technology actually works?
>Here's a link to one of this type of charger...
>http://www.vdcelectronics.com/batteryminder.htm
>
>I've been using this on my Concord 25XC but of course have no idea if it's
>actually preventing sulfation and extending it's life. I'd love to hear
>something from some who actually knows.
theory behind them is quite believable and many folks have seen positive
results. I know several folks that have used a pulse charger to revive
"useless" batteries that were left uncharged for too long. I haven't seen
any formal studies, however. It is expensive and time-consuming to do such
a formal study.
In a nutshell, they probably work and there is no harm in using
one if they don't.
A bit of caution. By their very nature, these units put out
voltage spikes. If you were using one on your airplane, before you actually
turn it on, it would be prudent to make sure the master switch was off or
even go so far as to disconnect the battery lead. This would ensure that
you don't send harmful voltage spikes into your expensive avionics.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: To lock or not lock canopy? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 05:54 PM 4/22/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
>Something a friend of mine did with his car could also work for airplanes. He
>had an old Thunderbird that had a factory stereo in it. He took the factory
>stereo out and cut the face plate off with a band saw then held it in place
>with magnets and had the good stereo hidden behind it.
My friend went a step further. He made a cover from a broken
cheapie cassette player. He then pulled some tape out of a cassette stuffed
a handful of it in the fake player, and tossed the cassette on the dash
with the tape festooning down to the player face. Highly effective.
Perhaps an old 8-track would be even better. :-)
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Vans Capacitive senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vision micro" <vision_micro@hotmail.com>
Evan,
Our probe gives better resolution than plates, but using the fuel level
converter with the flat capacitive plates will be satisfactory.
P/N 3010036 is "Fuel Level Converter"
List Price $98.00.
Best Regards
David McCluskey
Technical Support
Vision Microsystems
4151 Mitchell Way
Bellingham, WA 98226
www.visionmicrosystems.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Was... Dynon, now whiskey compass |
tests=AWL,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST
version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Mike Stewart
<Snip>
Since it has a magnetic heading function,
can I remove the whiskey compass
<snip>
Brian Denk
I have only the Rocky Mtn. elec compass module in my RV, no whiskey, DAR
told me it was no problem during inspection. The regs are a little behind
the times here. I expect debate coming.
Mike Stewart
Do Not Archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | what MAP tubing? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
What type of tubing are folks using from the manifold pressure port on the
Lycoming cylinder head to the manifold pressure sensor? An A&P I talked to
recommended a metal tubing rather than a flexable (rubber) tubing for fear of
a break/leak that would cause the cylinder to run lean -> over heat ->
failure.
THanks -
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - the end is in sight!
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 VHF users |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi Al,
I flew to Sun-N-Fun using the Microair 760 in my airplane. It didn't occur
to me to use the intercom feature. Sorry. :-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Be there or be square!
Vince
Subject: RV and Rocket Fly-In (others welcome too!)
MIDWEST RV and ROCKET
FLY-IN
April 26th and 27th 2003 Rebel's Bluff
Airport (not on the sectional yet) N37 06.1 W93 52.2
2 miles NNE of Mt Vernon (MISSOURI) Municipal
Airport (2MO) About 30 miles west of Springfield, Missouri, 150 miles south
of Kansas City, and 150 miles ENE of Tulsa, OK.
2,200' x 75' Very Nice Sod
CTAF 122.9
Av Gas 100LL available for approx $2. (dealer cost)
Special Events Include: Aerobatic demomstration flights, skydivers, and some fun
events with your airplane.
Everyone's invited for Bar-B-Que Lunch (please bring a covered dish of potato salad,
or cold slaw, or buns, chips, cookies if you can.)
If you are staying overnight, dinner will include steak or chicken, salad and baked
potatoes.
There is camping on the airstrip, or a motel ($50/couple).
If enough wives/girlfriends show an interest we will have a special trip arranged
to the "Precious Moments Chapel" and museum in Carthage, MO. RSVP Ladies!
Sunday morning will have a great breakfast to guaranteed to get you at least halfway
home.
We will pass the hat to help cover the cost of food/drinks. Everything else at
the fly in is free!
Please RSVP to Les Featherston, e-mail at lwfeatherston@aol.com or 417-466-4663,
or 11853 Lawrence 1105, Mt. Vernon, MISSOURI.
Hotel accomodations:
Arrival Date: Saturday April 26, 2003
Departure Date: Sunday April 27, 2003
Room Rate: $49.50 Per Room Per Night Plus Tax for (1) to (2) Persons
The rates are net, not subject to any discount cards, VIP Cards, or coupons.
Rooms reserved under the Featherston Fly In.
These rates include a continental breakfast with cinnamon raisin and regular bagels
with cream cheese, toast and jelly of your choice, freshly baked donuts,
orange, apple and grape juice from 6:00 AM to 10:00 AM, and coffee 24 hours a
day. Local phone calls are free. Our heated indoor pool is open from 7:00 AM until
10:00 PM daily. Data ports on every room phone.
Jim Prentice, GM
General Manager
Mt. Vernon Super 8
417-461-0230
jpr23@sofnet.com <mailto:jpr23@sofnet.com>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Here's what they look like. Picture from Joe Miller's 9A, Hillsboro, OR,
courtesy of VAF Home Wing NL.
http://home.teleport.com/~jmpcrftr/CableEyes/CableEyes.html
You need to call Aircraft Spruce to order them. I understand they are not
in the catalog or on the web site.
Mike
At 04:57 2003-04-23 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Bowen <lcbowen@yahoo.com>
>
>I'm using three of them for my cable pass-throughs. They work fine. It was a
>pain enlarging the hole in the eyeball to fit the cables. Otherwise they are
>fine.
>
>-LB
>
>
>--- Rick Fogerson <rickf@cableone.net> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
> >
> > Hi listers,
> > I have used the eyeball bulkhead with 6 tiny screws on my throttle and
> > mixture cables at the firewall before. I understand that Avery has a "new
> > style" that only uses one threaded fitting to attach. I haven't seen
> one so
> > I don't know how it is suppose to work. Has anyone used this on your
> > firewall and what do you think of it?
> > Thanks, Rick Fogerson
> > RV3 finish kit
> > Boise, ID
>
>
>http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Was... Dynon, now whiskey compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
The CAF P-51C only has a remote electric compass. Our mechanics had a hissy
fit at the first annual, but after much gnashing of teeth, it was determined
that it was legal in the big war and it is legal today.
Doug Rozendaal
RV-4 and Hater of (EX-F-4 Phantom) Rocket Drivers.....
----- Original Message -----
From: <mstewart@qa.butler.com>
Subject: RV-List: Was... Dynon, now whiskey compass
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
>
> Mike Stewart
>
> <Snip>
> Since it has a magnetic heading function,
> can I remove the whiskey compass
> <snip>
>
> Brian Denk
>
> I have only the Rocky Mtn. elec compass module in my RV, no whiskey, DAR
> told me it was no problem during inspection. The regs are a little behind
> the times here. I expect debate coming.
>
> Mike Stewart
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Shimmy and Groan |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Hi Listers,
A new/old thread here today.
I would like a survey of 6A owners who may have some good input to these
questions.
-------------------------------
1. I have a shimmy in the nose wheel on rollout, just as the airplane
is getting slowed down.
I tightened the big nut/washers one flat at about 10 hours and another 2
flats at 30, with no difference in result.
I keep the nose tire inflated only to the point where full tread meets the
tarmac, so it is not overinflated.
I find too that full back pressure on the stick at start of shimmy will
correct most of it, but don't know if letting full weight on the nose would
be better for full contact...I am always trying to keep pressure off the
nose gear..........question.....what do you do ????
----------------------
2. I have a terrible groan on the right brake pedal.
Many others have had this too and I don't know why the right pedal is so
predominant here.
In turning for taxi, without rudder helping, I have to touch the brake a bit
and it groans in protest and makes people look at me like I just killed a
swamp donkey....
I have the overhead pedals and it is real easy to apply brake even with
heels on the floor scrunching up my carpet....I especially don't like this
on crosswind takeoffs.
Others I know have this groan too but usually to a lesser volume...
Any good stories and/or fixes out there ?
Feedback very much appreciated.
Austin
Northwet Canada.
P.S. I sure do wish there was a better and more accurate gauge/sender
system for the fuel level.
My Stewart Warner/Van's floats and Westech dual gauge are way off the
mark...I almost never look at them, one being worse than the other...I
basically use a dip stick and clock.
Is there any way to massage the senders ?
Message 23
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|
<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>, <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 VHF users |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Al...
I am using this radio in my -8A... I love the radio, but I am using it with
a PS Engineering PM3000 intercom...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ N8WV
www.vondane.com
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
Listers:
Is anyone out there using the Microair 760 VHF transreciever? If so, Are you
using their intercom system, and if you are, are you happy with it? I am
trying to decide whether I should use it or install a different intercom
system.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Al Grajek
RV8
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I ordered mine today, Late July shipping. They said it has been a busy
morning.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Listers,
I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the case
since Matt has good filters in place.
I use "block sender" feature on Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the
senders are wise enough to change their address by one number everytime they
spam out again.
If my friends saw my incoming titles they would surely think I was a pervert
for sure due to the outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each
day...I am close to taking a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the net
except for recent real estate sites so I don't know where they are catching
my address.
Any suggestions ?
Austin
do not archive
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: what MAP tubing? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
That logic sounds backwards to me. If you have a rigid tube, you would
crack/break it. Unless of course you put in a service loop to counteract
vibration. For me, I used flexible hose from everything on the engine for
this reason exactly. I have seen many other MAP sensors hooked up this way
as well.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: what MAP tubing?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> What type of tubing are folks using from the manifold pressure port on the
> Lycoming cylinder head to the manifold pressure sensor? An A&P I talked
to
> recommended a metal tubing rather than a flexable (rubber) tubing for fear
of
> a break/leak that would cause the cylinder to run lean -> over heat ->
> failure.
>
> THanks -
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - the end is in sight!
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Shimmy and Groan |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell" <jbabell@attbi.com>
Hi Austin,
I have an experience of my own to offer with respect to your nose wheel
shimmy. I had repeated incidents of nose wheel shimmy on my -6A. I had
finally tightened the big retaining nut on the bottom of the gear leg well
beyond what I thought was reasonable. I always checked the breakout force
with a properly calibrated scale, but I had to keep tightening it more and
more and still couldn't eliminate the shimmy. I finally removed the nose
wheel and thoroughly cleaned off all the grease from the cupped washers and
adjacent surfaces and the nose wheel shimmy disappeared and hasn't recurred.
It turned out that, when I greased the surface between the nose wheel yoke
and the nose gear leg through the grease fitting in front of the yoke, I
apparently was too generous with the grease, and once the grease got all
over the cupped washers and adjacent surfaces, the big retaining nut,
despite being properly torqued, couldn't hold the slippery assembly tightly
enough to prevent shimmy. Once the excess grease was cleaned off, the
problem was solved. The lesson here, I guess, is to use only the minimal
amount of grease necessary to provide smooth rotation of the nose wheel, but
not enough to result in the grease soaking downward onto the cupped washers
on a hot day. If you ask me how much grease to use, I can only recommend
some good old, down-to-earth, gutsy empiricism.
Another builder told me something else that might be helpful. He said the
nose wheel fairing can contribute to nose wheel shimmy if it isn't balanced.
He ended up glassing some lead shot inside the front of his nose wheel
fairing until it was balanced fore and aft at the center of the axle hole.
He said it made a big difference.
I hope this is helpful.
Jack Abell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Subject: RV-List: Shimmy and Groan
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
> Hi Listers,
> A new/old thread here today.
> I would like a survey of 6A owners who may have some good input to these
> questions.
> -------------------------------
> 1. I have a shimmy in the nose wheel on rollout, just as the airplane
> is getting slowed down.
> I tightened the big nut/washers one flat at about 10 hours and another 2
> flats at 30, with no difference in result.
> I keep the nose tire inflated only to the point where full tread meets the
> tarmac, so it is not overinflated.
> I find too that full back pressure on the stick at start of shimmy will
> correct most of it, but don't know if letting full weight on the nose
would
> be better for full contact...I am always trying to keep pressure off the
> nose gear..........question.....what do you do ????
>
> ----------------------
> 2. I have a terrible groan on the right brake pedal.
> Many others have had this too and I don't know why the right pedal is so
> predominant here.
> In turning for taxi, without rudder helping, I have to touch the brake a
bit
> and it groans in protest and makes people look at me like I just killed a
> swamp donkey....
> I have the overhead pedals and it is real easy to apply brake even with
> heels on the floor scrunching up my carpet....I especially don't like this
> on crosswind takeoffs.
> Others I know have this groan too but usually to a lesser volume...
> Any good stories and/or fixes out there ?
> Feedback very much appreciated.
> Austin
> Northwet Canada.
> P.S. I sure do wish there was a better and more accurate gauge/sender
> system for the fuel level.
> My Stewart Warner/Van's floats and Westech dual gauge are way off the
> mark...I almost never look at them, one being worse than the other...I
> basically use a dip stick and clock.
> Is there any way to massage the senders ?
>
>
Message 28
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell" <jbabell@attbi.com>
Hello again, Austin,
Is the spam in the form of e-mail or pop-up ads?
Jack Abell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Subject: RV-List: Spam
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
> Listers,
> I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
> picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the
case
> since Matt has good filters in place.
> I use "block sender" feature on Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the
> senders are wise enough to change their address by one number everytime
they
> spam out again.
> If my friends saw my incoming titles they would surely think I was a
pervert
> for sure due to the outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each
> day...I am close to taking a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the
net
> except for recent real estate sites so I don't know where they are
catching
> my address.
> Any suggestions ?
> Austin
> do not archive
>
>
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list/0148.html
anyone can get to that page and pick up your email address. If it is a big head
ache for you I would email Matt and have him implement some way of hiding email
addresses on the web site.
Chris W
Austin wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
> Listers,
> I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
> picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the case
> since Matt has good filters in place. I use "block sender" feature on
> Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the senders are wise enough to change
> their address by one number everytime they spam out again. If my friends saw
> my incoming titles they would surely think I was a pervert for sure due to the
> outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each day...I am close to taking
> a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the net except for recent real estate
> sites so I don't know where they are catching my address.
> Any suggestions ?
> Austin
> do not archive
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Hey Paul,
Great report, thanks....sounds like all I was hoping for. I've got order #71 but
haven't received it yet, Gillian says it should be here by the second week
in May...
Couple things you didn't specifically address:
1) How's the readability of the screen in sunlight?
2) How do you like the G-meter function for acro...is it usable enough to eliminate
the need for a larger standalone G-meter?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D firewall forward...
Time: 08:17:41 PM PST US
From: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
I just wanted to let everyone know the Dynon is flying.
I have had it installed for 4 weeks now and absolutely love it! The attitude
indication is so accurate that it is hard to believe. I replaced a vacuum
pump, attitude and directional gyro and VSI with the Dynon, leaving the
airspeed and altimeter in the panel as backup.
I have taken the Dynon out on many flights simply to see at what point it
will loose attitude reference. Well, I am still waiting. Fact is, I have
been unable to upset it, no matter what I do. I am not talking about the
occasional light roll. I am talking about every aerobatic maneuver me and my
plane do, one after another after another non stop for 15 minutes. 4g pulls,
triple rolls, hammer heads, loops, Cuban eight's etc......
And for those that think a light standard rate turn is the real test, give
me a break! If anyone has dealt with a manufacturer of an AHRS system that
couldn't hold a standard rate turn, they shouldn't walk away from that
manufacturer, THEY SHOULD RUN!
I am here to tell you, the DYNON unit is the real deal. I have tested this
sucker non-stop standard rate turn for 2520 degrees or seven 360 degree
turns, then switched direction for an additional 4-360 degree standard rate
turns. Not once has the Dynon shown any ill effects. I have been with it
cross country for 30 hours, in and out of the soup flying IFR quite often,
and the Dynon is extremely able.
Here is what I got for my $2000.
Glass Artificial Horizon
Glass Airspeed
Glass Altimeter
Glass VSI
Glass G-Meter
Glass Heading Gyro
Glass Turn and Bank
Glass Clock
Glass Timer
Glass Volt Meter
Altitude Encoder
No Vacuum pump kit
Add it up and the $2000 price tag is an incredible deal.
All of this packaged in a nice size screen with a unit that will slip into a
standard 3-1/8" hole.
The people at Dynon are great to work with and are currently correcting
small software bugs as more and more units get into the air. Things like,
keep alive power not storing some screen presentations correctly. Or the
clock time is reset without a backup internal battery. (Small stuff that has
already been fixed with software updates)
I don't have an affiliation with the company, just an extremely happy
customer, glad to pass on the news that $6000 is way to much for this type
of unit, unlike what the other manufacturers will lead you to believe.
Paul Stratman
RV-6A N21PS 310 hrs in 14 months
"Taylor Maid"
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Shimmy and Groan |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
> 1. I have a shimmy in the nose wheel on rollout, just as the airplane
> is getting slowed down.
Check the break-out pressure of the nose wheel by attaching a scale (I used
a small fish weighing scale) with some string around the back of the nose
wheel fairing. Make sure your break out pressure is correct. (I think its
around 17 lbs - check the manual, or I'm sure someone here will correct me)
If the assembly moves with less than the correct pressure check the big
tension washers. Are they installed correctly? You should be able to
tighten them to achieve more than the required pressure. After 3-4 years, I
noticed that even though I'd tighten mine flat, I still couldn't get
sufficient breakout pressure. A fresh set of washers from Van fixed that.
> ----------------------
> 2. I have a terrible groan on the right brake pedal.
> Many others have had this too and I don't know why the right pedal is so
> predominant here.
I did too. It sounded like a dying pig and the braking effect was almost
nil. I think its caused by the brake pad not riding square with the disk.
Auto parts stores sell this red rubbery stuff called "Disk Brake Quiet" (or
something like that) You squeez some behind the brake pad. I think it
cushions the vibration of the misaligned disk. In time, the disk will seat
itself and the noise will stop for good. But in the mean time use this
stuff. I had to apply it into the disk 2-3 times before all became quiet
for good
My Stewart Warner/Van's floats and Westech dual gauge are way off the
> mark...I almost never look at them, one being worse than the other...I
> basically use a dip stick and clock
Mine too. I consider them worthless and they are in place only for the
benefit of the FAA. I monitor my fuel with a neat little dual timer I got
at Radio Shack for about $20. It independantly times two events with two
independant displays. Before each flight I stick my tanks, compute for 9gph
and enter the times in each timer. When I switch tanks I switch which timer
is running. I find it quite accurate and acceptable.
Andy
Message 32
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| Subject: | Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
Great report. You mentioned you fly IFR with it - do you have the Dynon
hooked up to a separate bus? Do you have an old style turn coordinator still
in your panel? I know it's doable, but are you comfortable that you could
safely fly in turbulence if the Dynon died IFR?
I'm definitely want an EFIS in my RV-7, but I'm not sure how much I want to
install in the way of backup in case it dies...
Regards,
Josh Siler
RV-7A emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Stratman
Subject: RV-List: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
I just wanted to let everyone know the Dynon is flying.
I have had it installed for 4 weeks now and absolutely love it! The attitude
indication is so accurate that it is hard to believe. I replaced a vacuum
pump, attitude and directional gyro and VSI with the Dynon, leaving the
airspeed and altimeter in the panel as backup.
I have taken the Dynon out on many flights simply to see at what point it
will loose attitude reference. Well, I am still waiting. Fact is, I have
been unable to upset it, no matter what I do. I am not talking about the
occasional light roll. I am talking about every aerobatic maneuver me and my
plane do, one after another after another non stop for 15 minutes. 4g pulls,
triple rolls, hammer heads, loops, Cuban eight's etc......
And for those that think a light standard rate turn is the real test, give
me a break! If anyone has dealt with a manufacturer of an AHRS system that
couldn't hold a standard rate turn, they shouldn't walk away from that
manufacturer, THEY SHOULD RUN!
I am here to tell you, the DYNON unit is the real deal. I have tested this
sucker non-stop standard rate turn for 2520 degrees or seven 360 degree
turns, then switched direction for an additional 4-360 degree standard rate
turns. Not once has the Dynon shown any ill effects. I have been with it
cross country for 30 hours, in and out of the soup flying IFR quite often,
and the Dynon is extremely able.
Here is what I got for my $2000.
Glass Artificial Horizon
Glass Airspeed
Glass Altimeter
Glass VSI
Glass G-Meter
Glass Heading Gyro
Glass Turn and Bank
Glass Clock
Glass Timer
Glass Volt Meter
Altitude Encoder
No Vacuum pump kit
Add it up and the $2000 price tag is an incredible deal.
All of this packaged in a nice size screen with a unit that will slip into a
standard 3-1/8" hole.
The people at Dynon are great to work with and are currently correcting
small software bugs as more and more units get into the air. Things like,
keep alive power not storing some screen presentations correctly. Or the
clock time is reset without a backup internal battery. (Small stuff that has
already been fixed with software updates)
I don't have an affiliation with the company, just an extremely happy
customer, glad to pass on the news that $6000 is way to much for this type
of unit, unlike what the other manufacturers will lead you to believe.
Paul Stratman
RV-6A N21PS 310 hrs in 14 months
"Taylor Maid"
Message 33
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| Subject: | Shimmy and Groan |
tests=AWL,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Austin:
1. On the shimmy, if you shake your head vigorously while the shimmy takes
place, and your timing is good, you will neutralize the effect and you
passenger will feel nothing, but may wonder why you are picking up your
headset from the floor during departure:) (sorry, mine still shimmy's a bit
and I cant make it go away. Thought some humor was in order. Just wait until
all the tail draggers chime in on your/our training wheel anyway)
2. I too had the brake groan from hell. Could be heard across the entire
airport. Would make my feet tingle, and make my young eagles laugh as they
were being tickled by the vibration. I mean loud and nasty. Just like a 767
with groaning brakes. Made the whole plane shake rattle and roll. I tried
all kinds of things. News pads 3 times, rebuild master cylinder, new rotor,
new piston, new seal, more pads, blue pad gunk, grease on the caliper pins,
more pads, prayed for guidance from above, ..... until finally a lister told
me to shim the pad to the caliper piston. His analogy was that the pad was
was skipping across the rotor much like an eraser does on a piece of paper.
One way it slides smoothly, another way it skips. So if you make a shim out
of .016 stock, with a hole to be held by the caliper glide pin, so that the
trailing edge of the pad hits the spinning rotor first under pressure, then
the skipping goes away. For my groaning wheel, this immediately, solved the
problem, 400 hours ago.
Mike Stewart
800 hours. Waiting for my alt. hold to arrive.
-----Original Message-----
From: Austin [mailto:6430@axion.net]
Subject: RV-List: Shimmy and Groan
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Hi Listers,
A new/old thread here today.
I would like a survey of 6A owners who may have some good input to these
questions.
-------------------------------
1. I have a shimmy in the nose wheel on rollout, just as the airplane
is getting slowed down.
I tightened the big nut/washers one flat at about 10 hours and another 2
flats at 30, with no difference in result.
I keep the nose tire inflated only to the point where full tread meets the
tarmac, so it is not overinflated.
I find too that full back pressure on the stick at start of shimmy will
correct most of it, but don't know if letting full weight on the nose would
be better for full contact...I am always trying to keep pressure off the
nose gear..........question.....what do you do ????
----------------------
2. I have a terrible groan on the right brake pedal.
Many others have had this too and I don't know why the right pedal is so
predominant here.
In turning for taxi, without rudder helping, I have to touch the brake a bit
and it groans in protest and makes people look at me like I just killed a
swamp donkey....
I have the overhead pedals and it is real easy to apply brake even with
heels on the floor scrunching up my carpet....I especially don't like this
on crosswind takeoffs.
Others I know have this groan too but usually to a lesser volume...
Any good stories and/or fixes out there ?
Feedback very much appreciated.
Austin
Northwet Canada.
P.S. I sure do wish there was a better and more accurate gauge/sender
system for the fuel level.
My Stewart Warner/Van's floats and Westech dual gauge are way off the
mark...I almost never look at them, one being worse than the other...I
basically use a dip stick and clock.
Is there any way to massage the senders ?
Message 34
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"Re: RV-List: Spam" (Apr 23, 10:30am)
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Listers,
Spam is a big problem on the Internet these days, that's for sure. For
some perspective, I receive over 100 spam emails to my personal account
each day! Austin, consider yourself lucky that you only get 8 per day!
Oh how I long for those days of only 8 spams! :-) I've had this email
address for over 10 years now and everyone knows me by it including the
spammers.
Also remember that once your email address is gleaned from somewhere,
anywhere, it's the beginning of the end. Of course spammers share
email address lists! Its just a matter of time until its widly
available.
Austin, in the case of your email address, I just went on to Yahoo and
put in your email address and got back the following three hits:
http://www.vansairforce.org/6430/0002.html
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/austin/finishing_up.htm
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/panel.htm
None of these hits were directly RV-List archive related. If I can
find your email address in a yahoo search, so can spammers. That's the
good and bad part of being an active member of the Internet.
I try to look at it this way. When I turn on the TV to watch an hour
long show, I'm going to have to sit through 15 minutes worth of
commercials and advertisements. That 25% of my time wasted by
commercialism. As long as my spam count per day is around 25% of my
total email volume, its no different than watching TV. Commercialism
is what makes the world turn. It's here to say in each and every medium
they can think of. They even force me to watch advertisements in the
movie theater now... 10 bucks to watch Britney Spears jiggle? Hum,
maybe not such a bad deal after all... :-)
Matt Dralle
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list/0148.html
>
>anyone can get to that page and pick up your email address. If it is a big head
>ache for you I would email Matt and have him implement some way of hiding email
>addresses on the web site.
>
>Chris W
>
>Austin wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>>
>> Listers,
>> I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
>> picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the case
>> since Matt has good filters in place. I use "block sender" feature on
>> Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the senders are wise enough to change
>> their address by one number everytime they spam out again. If my friends saw
>> my incoming titles they would surely think I was a pervert for sure due to the
>> outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each day...I am close to taking
>> a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the net except for recent real estate
>> sites so I don't know where they are catching my address.
>> Any suggestions ?
>> Austin
>> do not archive
>
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
Message 35
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tests=AWL,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Forget it. You can't fix this problem. The industry in trying, but there are
no fix's yet.
It really has nothing to do with your usage these days anyway. We ran a test
(I happen to be in the software testing business) to see how long it would
take to get spammed on the creation of a new e-mail address. As an example,
we set up a hotmail account, who's address was very complicated. Like
J23334crap!@32@hotmail.com . We never told a sole, and found spam occurring
w/I 30 minutes, and over 30 messages w/I 3 days. Your address would be easy
to do for a spammer.
It is not what your doing, or where you are surfing anymore, although that
was the case 2 years ago. True you should stay away from click-throughs and
registrations, but other than that, your going to have to grin and bare it.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Austin [mailto:6430@axion.net]
Subject: RV-List: Spam
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Listers,
I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the case
since Matt has good filters in place.
I use "block sender" feature on Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the
senders are wise enough to change their address by one number everytime they
spam out again.
If my friends saw my incoming titles they would surely think I was a pervert
for sure due to the outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each
day...I am close to taking a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the net
except for recent real estate sites so I don't know where they are catching
my address.
Any suggestions ?
Austin
do not archive
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Austin wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
> I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
> picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the case
> since Matt has good filters in place.
Don't confuse Matt's filters with spam that's coming from other sources.
Matt's filters will only block someone who's trying to use the RV-list
itself to distribute the Spam.
If a spammer wants to join the RV-list to receive the postings and
"harvest" the email addresses, Matt can't stop that (unfortunately).
This is a problem on other groups as well, if you're a member of any
Yahoo groups, or if you post messages to any usenet newsgroups, you're
opening up your email address to a world of email filters designed
specifically to harvest email addresses.
> I use "block sender" feature on Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the
> senders are wise enough to change their address by one number everytime they
> spam out again.
Yet another "feature" of Outlook that's largely useless. Or perhaps
it's just being used in a way that wasn't initially intended, but still.
If you want a real solution, search on google for products called
SpamAssassin, IHateSpam, or other bayesian-filter-based Spam Filtering
software that filters based on the message content.
> If my friends saw my incoming titles they would surely think I was a pervert
> for sure due to the outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each
> day...
*ONLY* 8 each day? You mustn't get out much... 8-) I routinely receive
30-50 a day, on my two email accounts. All you can do is slow the
propagation of your email address into the spammer's hands. You can't
stop it. Spam filters are my friend... 8-)
-RB4
Do not archive.
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4@alltel.net>
>
> Hey Paul,
>
> Great report, thanks....sounds like all I was hoping for. I've got order
#71 but haven't received it yet, Gillian says it should be here by the
second week in May...
>
> Couple things you didn't specifically address:
>
> 1) How's the readability of the screen in sunlight?
>
I asked the guy at SNF the same question, he handed me the unit and
said take it outside and see for yourself. It looked fine to me.
Of course, the idea of just keep on walking crossed my mind.
No, I took it back(damn morals).
Craig Hiers
Moultrie,GA
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
tests=AWL,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST
version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Attn: all
I spoke to Paul and he regretfully can not answer posts till he gets home
from work tonight. He will make a post to answer ?'s this evening Kansas
City time.
Thanks,
Mike Stewart
Do Not Archive
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
It would almost be cheaper to just install a second Dynon EFIS for backup.
Steve Eberhart
Just a whole bunch of aluminum out in the garage that will eventually
have the tail number N14SE and go real fast
Joshua Siler wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
>
> Great report. You mentioned you fly IFR with it - do you have the Dynon
> hooked up to a separate bus? Do you have an old style turn coordinator still
> in your panel? I know it's doable, but are you comfortable that you could
> safely fly in turbulence if the Dynon died IFR?
>
> I'm definitely want an EFIS in my RV-7, but I'm not sure how much I want to
> install in the way of backup in case it dies...
>
> Regards,
> Josh Siler
> RV-7A emp
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Stratman
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
>
> I just wanted to let everyone know the Dynon is flying.
>
> I have had it installed for 4 weeks now and absolutely love it! The attitude
> indication is so accurate that it is hard to believe. I replaced a vacuum
> pump, attitude and directional gyro and VSI with the Dynon, leaving the
> airspeed and altimeter in the panel as backup.
>
> I have taken the Dynon out on many flights simply to see at what point it
> will loose attitude reference. Well, I am still waiting. Fact is, I have
> been unable to upset it, no matter what I do. I am not talking about the
> occasional light roll. I am talking about every aerobatic maneuver me and my
> plane do, one after another after another non stop for 15 minutes. 4g pulls,
> triple rolls, hammer heads, loops, Cuban eight's etc......
>
> And for those that think a light standard rate turn is the real test, give
> me a break! If anyone has dealt with a manufacturer of an AHRS system that
> couldn't hold a standard rate turn, they shouldn't walk away from that
> manufacturer, THEY SHOULD RUN!
>
> I am here to tell you, the DYNON unit is the real deal. I have tested this
> sucker non-stop standard rate turn for 2520 degrees or seven 360 degree
> turns, then switched direction for an additional 4-360 degree standard rate
> turns. Not once has the Dynon shown any ill effects. I have been with it
> cross country for 30 hours, in and out of the soup flying IFR quite often,
> and the Dynon is extremely able.
>
> Here is what I got for my $2000.
>
> Glass Artificial Horizon
> Glass Airspeed
> Glass Altimeter
> Glass VSI
> Glass G-Meter
> Glass Heading Gyro
> Glass Turn and Bank
> Glass Clock
> Glass Timer
> Glass Volt Meter
> Altitude Encoder
> No Vacuum pump kit
>
> Add it up and the $2000 price tag is an incredible deal.
> All of this packaged in a nice size screen with a unit that will slip into a
> standard 3-1/8" hole.
> The people at Dynon are great to work with and are currently correcting
> small software bugs as more and more units get into the air. Things like,
> keep alive power not storing some screen presentations correctly. Or the
> clock time is reset without a backup internal battery. (Small stuff that has
> already been fixed with software updates)
>
> I don't have an affiliation with the company, just an extremely happy
> customer, glad to pass on the news that $6000 is way to much for this type
> of unit, unlike what the other manufacturers will lead you to believe.
>
> Paul Stratman
> RV-6A N21PS 310 hrs in 14 months
> "Taylor Maid"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Shimmy and Groan |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
The same problem occurs with bicycle brakes with the 2 brake pucks that
squeeze on the wheel. I was told the problem occurs because the pad is not
square to the wheel/rotor. The rear of the brake pad is hitting before the
front causing a high frequency chatter. On my bike I readjusted the pads so
the front hit slightly before the rear and problem gone. So as the last
post mentioned square the pads to the disc should fix it.
At 01:51 PM 4/23/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
>Austin:
>1. On the shimmy, if you shake your head vigorously while the shimmy takes
>place, and your timing is good, you will neutralize the effect and you
>passenger will feel nothing, but may wonder why you are picking up your
>headset from the floor during departure:) (sorry, mine still shimmy's a bit
>and I cant make it go away. Thought some humor was in order. Just wait until
>all the tail draggers chime in on your/our training wheel anyway)
>
>2. I too had the brake groan from hell. Could be heard across the entire
>airport. Would make my feet tingle, and make my young eagles laugh as they
>were being tickled by the vibration. I mean loud and nasty. Just like a 767
>with groaning brakes. Made the whole plane shake rattle and roll. I tried
>all kinds of things. News pads 3 times, rebuild master cylinder, new rotor,
>new piston, new seal, more pads, blue pad gunk, grease on the caliper pins,
>more pads, prayed for guidance from above, ..... until finally a lister told
>me to shim the pad to the caliper piston. His analogy was that the pad was
>was skipping across the rotor much like an eraser does on a piece of paper.
>One way it slides smoothly, another way it skips. So if you make a shim out
>of .016 stock, with a hole to be held by the caliper glide pin, so that the
>trailing edge of the pad hits the spinning rotor first under pressure, then
>the skipping goes away. For my groaning wheel, this immediately, solved the
>problem, 400 hours ago.
>
>
>Mike Stewart
>800 hours. Waiting for my alt. hold to arrive.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Austin [mailto:6430@axion.net]
>To: rv-list rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: Shimmy and Groan
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
>Hi Listers,
> A new/old thread here today.
>I would like a survey of 6A owners who may have some good input to these
>questions.
>-------------------------------
>1. I have a shimmy in the nose wheel on rollout, just as the airplane
>is getting slowed down.
>I tightened the big nut/washers one flat at about 10 hours and another 2
>flats at 30, with no difference in result.
>I keep the nose tire inflated only to the point where full tread meets the
>tarmac, so it is not overinflated.
>I find too that full back pressure on the stick at start of shimmy will
>correct most of it, but don't know if letting full weight on the nose would
>be better for full contact...I am always trying to keep pressure off the
>nose gear..........question.....what do you do ????
>
>----------------------
>2. I have a terrible groan on the right brake pedal.
>Many others have had this too and I don't know why the right pedal is so
>predominant here.
>In turning for taxi, without rudder helping, I have to touch the brake a bit
>and it groans in protest and makes people look at me like I just killed a
>swamp donkey....
>I have the overhead pedals and it is real easy to apply brake even with
>heels on the floor scrunching up my carpet....I especially don't like this
>on crosswind takeoffs.
>Others I know have this groan too but usually to a lesser volume...
> Any good stories and/or fixes out there ?
>Feedback very much appreciated.
>Austin
>Northwet Canada.
>P.S. I sure do wish there was a better and more accurate gauge/sender
>system for the fuel level.
>My Stewart Warner/Van's floats and Westech dual gauge are way off the
>mark...I almost never look at them, one being worse than the other...I
>basically use a dip stick and clock.
>Is there any way to massage the senders ?
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Zercher" <ez@sensenich.com>
Austin and all who care,
We too have a real spam problem. Like Matt, most of our email accounts have
been around for 8 years and we "trap" about 100 a day. If you are interested
this is what we do in Outlook. It is close to what Austin is doing, but we
trap the domain, the entire email address.
On your Outlook toolbar you will see "organize" when you click on it, an
option window opens up top. Click on "Junk email" on the left. Then Turn on
the two junk email selections. Then click on the "click here". Click on
"edit junk email" or "edit adult..." whichever you like. This will bring up
a window to "add" the spammers address. As I said, I only add the domain
name. The yahoo's and MSN's and the AOL's will still get through because I
can't block those (could be customers). On those, I simply right click on
the whole email address and click on Junk email and place the entire email
on the list.
This actually creates 2 text files in our C:\windows\application
data\microsoft\outlook folder. Once you get it going, you will have two
files, "junk senders.txt" and "adult content senders.txt". If anyone wants
to copy and paste my rather lengthy files into your own directory, I will
place them on our web site at:
http://www.sensenich.com/software/AdultContentSenders.txt
and
http://www,sensenich.com/software/JunkSenders.txt
You must rename the files with a space between the words just like the files
on your PC. So rename the file Adult Content Senders.txt etc.
Just doing my part to kill spam!
Ed Zercher
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with the Dynon-The Real Deal |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Craig Hiers wrote:
>>1) How's the readability of the screen in sunlight?
>
> I asked the guy at SNF the same question, he handed me the unit and
> said take it outside and see for yourself. It looked fine to me.
For what it's worth, I did the same thing at Arlington last summer
(followed by a small, and growing, crowd as I walked from the booth to
the bright sunshine). I was surprised how legible it was, and how I
couldn't make it illegible (to me, anyway) at any angle. We also tried
tumbling it, and couldn't get it confused.
We did notice that after some energetic tumbling that the horizon was
left at about a 30 degree angle to the horizontal. It settled out to
neutral after we left it alone for about a minute.
> Of course, the idea of just keep on walking crossed my mind.
Mine too.
> No, I took it back(damn morals).
Mine too.
> Craig Hiers
> Moultrie,GA
-Rob Prior
Burnaby, BC, Canada
Message 43
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
As Matt Dralle was saying:
> I try to look at it this way. When I turn on the TV to watch an hour
> long show, I'm going to have to sit through 15 minutes worth of
> commercials and advertisements. That 25% of my time wasted by
> commercialism. As long as my spam count per day is around 25% of my
> total email volume, its no different than watching TV. Commercialism
> is what makes the world turn. It's here to say in each and every medium
> they can think of. They even force me to watch advertisements in the
> movie theater now... 10 bucks to watch Britney Spears jiggle? Hum,
> maybe not such a bad deal after all... :-)
The TV paradigm is a disparate example. It's more like having infomercials at
random intervals during movies, and then jacking the price of the movie up to
compensate for the extra length.
The solution is to support and encourage legislation to behead spammers, or
at the very least remove their reproductive organs and hands.
-Kysh
do not archive
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
| CBR-F4 streetbike - http://www.lapdragon.org/cbr |
| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
| Got 'nix? - http://www.infrastructure.org/ |
| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
| Give blood: Play Hockey! http://www.unixdragon.com/ |
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Zercher" <ez@sensenich.com>
AHHH...My second link has a comma instead of a period. It should be:
http://www.sensenich.com/software/JunkSenders.txt
Sorry
Ed
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
Guys, stopping spam is doable. There are good programs to block spam. Simple
filtering of domains, email addresses and even key words aren't very effective.
I use the internet a lot and have messages on tons of news groups. I still
don't get more than 5 or 10 spam messages a day. So I haven't bothered to setup
the good spam blocking software. But if you are interested in it take a look at
my spam links.
http://cdw.homelinux.com:8088/links/Spam.htm
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 46
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|
<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>, <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Microair 760 VHF users |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I am using it in my Ercoupe. You will need an intercom. The built in
intercom has no squelch. As a radio it works fine. I was concerned about the
small buttons in choppy air, it has not been a problem.
There is a company in AU (used to sell Microairs and got cut off for selling
outside AU) that is working on a copycat unit with more features like NAV
freqs, NOAA freqs and a true intercom. Only problem is that it is mono, so I
will still need an intercom for stereo.
http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/index.html
Don Mack www.dmack.net don@dmack.net
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
Listers:
Is anyone out there using the Microair 760 VHF transreciever? If so, Are you
using their intercom system, and if you are, are you happy with it? I am
trying to decide whether I should use it or install a different intercom
system.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Al Grajek
RV8
Message 47
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
I have started receiving spam in Russian! I don't have any idea why, but a
pain in the butt.
Of course I wouldn't look at any of those scantly clothed skinny girls
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW flying
Old Crow
Newport, OR
Do not archive
Message 48
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--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
i don't get hardly any on the address i use for the rv list. my second
address i use for surfing the net but only alittle. i get a lot on the second
address. i one time made the mistake of opening a porno e-mail. after that
they would just pop up on my screen. a lot at first but slowed down when i
have not opened them.
jerry wilken
albany oregon
rv6a
90 hr.
Message 49
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| Subject: | Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I have 2 on order from AS.
05-00724 ONE HOLE EYEBALL (.250) $26.00. They have other sizes. You can find
them on the AS web site.
I already installed the units with the 6 screws and it was a pita compared
to one hole.
Don
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
>Here's what they look like. Picture from Joe Miller's 9A, Hillsboro, OR,
>courtesy of VAF Home Wing NL.
>
>http://home.teleport.com/~jmpcrftr/CableEyes/CableEyes.html
>
>You need to call Aircraft Spruce to order them. I understand they are not
>in the catalog or on the web site.
Message 50
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
The RV-List is spidered by the search engines. Go to google.com and do a
search of your email address. You will get hits from the RV-list as well as
a few web sites. If the search engines can get your email address, the
spammer can do it too.
Do not archive
Don mack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Austin
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Listers,
I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the case
since Matt has good filters in place.
I use "block sender" feature on Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the
senders are wise enough to change their address by one number everytime they
spam out again.
If my friends saw my incoming titles they would surely think I was a pervert
for sure due to the outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each
day...I am close to taking a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the net
except for recent real estate sites so I don't know where they are catching
my address.
Any suggestions ?
Austin
do not archive
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| Subject: | Transmit Interference |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow@fedex.com>
I searched the archives, but only came up with the same questions and no
answers...
I am experiencing interference type problems (when keying my transmit) on my
E.I. Smart Engine Analyzer and my Ray Allen (MAC) trim indicators. The digital
readouts on the Analyzer go to nonsense, and the trim indicator impact is
intermitent. However, BOTH are directly impacted by the volume of my voice when
speaking while transmitting.
I talked to E.I. today, and after getting through the expected questions
regarding shielding, etc. the guy helping me thought it might be tied to the coax
cable itself. I have found that if the cable is unplugged from the antenna
everything is fine. Additionally, all aspects of the intercom/radio/CD player
etc. work (i.e., I can transmit and receive just fine, voice activation works,
CD
player works, etc. - if I had my eyes closed, I would never even know there was
a
problem!).
Any help anyone can give would be appreciated as I am starting to pull my hair
over this annoyance!
Thanks!
Scott in MEM
RV-8A one electric grimlin and cowling/baffling to go
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 VHF users |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Since we're all chiming in about the 760. Has anyone had any trouble with their
display blanking or displaying Kanji characters? I've had this happen twice.
As another lister pointed out, turning it on and off a bunch of times will
USUALLY clear it up. I don't want this to happen on my way to Oshkosh. Guess
I better take a backup radio just in case. I wanted stereo by the way so I didn't
use the built-in intercom.
Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane"
Al...
I am using this radio in my -8A... I love the radio, but I am using it with
a PS Engineering PM3000 intercom...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ N8WV
www.vondane.com
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek"
;
Subject: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek"
Listers:
Is anyone out there using the Microair 760 VHF transreciever? If so, Are you
using their intercom system, and if you are, are you happy with it? I am
trying to decide whether I should use it or install a different intercom
system.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Al Grajek
RV8
--
For God says, "At just the right time, I heard you. On the day of salvation, I
helped you." Indeed, God is ready to help you right now. Today is the day of
salvation.
2 Corinthians 6:2, New Living Translation
---------------------------------
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garry LeGare <versadek@earthlink.net>
Hi Guys,
You can save a bunch of money by going to a good hardware store or electrical
supply store and buying an waterproof connector for threaded electrical conduit.
They look almost exactly like the new connectors (single hole) that ASAS sells,
except that the Aluminum ball is rubber instead. I found them after installing
three of the old style (multi hole) units on my engine controls. I used them on
my wire penetrations. They are about $3. each and come in different sizes,
starting with a 1/2".
Enjoy.
Casper.
Don Mack wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
>
> I have 2 on order from AS.========================
Message 54
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| Subject: | Shimmy and Groan |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> Check the break-out pressure of the nose wheel by attaching a scale (I
used
> a small fish weighing scale) with some string around the back of the nose
> wheel fairing. Make sure your break out pressure is correct. (I think
its
> around 17 lbs - check the manual, or I'm sure someone here will correct
me)
I still have the original design nose-wheel fairing. My 1995 vintage manual
has a sketch showing a home-made hook connected through the axle bolt hole
with a scale connected to the hook. It says to tighten the front nut to
obtain 22 lbs break-out. Drawing C-1 (for the new fairing) shows and says
the same thing.
Cheers! --Henry Hore
Message 55
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| Subject: | Shimmy And Groan |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
My RV6A nose wheel doesn't shimmy. The break out force (as I recall it
should be about 22lbs, but check the manual on that point) - the break out
force seems important to keep shimmy in check.
Inflation - (I have been using 30PSI on all three wheels and find that it
works best for the nose wheel.... low pressure tends (on my machine anyway)
to want to start shaking.
Wheel groaning.....have you had the 'new' stronger return springs on the
brake cylinders? Mine used to hang up after hard brake application and I had
to manually pull back on the pedal to free the shoe. After I put on the free
new springs from Vans on I have not had any more trouble.
Also - I wonder - is the stronger, replacement, nose gear leg different in
any tendency to shimmy? Since it is said to be stronger I assume it would
have different mechanical characteristics...I really don't recall any
difference from the old one to the new stronger gear leg, but my memory is
vague on this point.
John at Salida, CO
Message 56
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
They are clothed? You poor boy. Always getting the short end of the stick!
<GRIN>
----- Original Message -----
From: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spam
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RW" <chiefs@teleport.com>
>
> I have started receiving spam in Russian! I don't have any idea why, but
a
> pain in the butt.
>
> Of course I wouldn't look at any of those scantly clothed skinny girls
>
> Dick White
> RV-8 N94DW flying
> Old Crow
> Newport, OR
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 57
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--> RV-List message posted by: prober@iwaynet.net
Austin,
I would highly recommend that you get the Eudora e-mail program and scrap the
Outlook from MS. In Eudora they have filters that are very easy to set up that
transfer the spammers directly to the trash bin. I may get one or two spammers
that get through per day but I just take a couple of seconds and creat a filter
that gets them too. I usually do keywords in the subject line to send the
message directly to trash along with the senders ID. Since I get LRI e-mail
from the same address I am able to go to the trash mailbox in Eudora and scan
for any possible relavant e-mail and then I just highlight the rest in block
and delete them in one click. I have been usuing Eudora for years and I can't
say enough good things about this E-mail program. It also helps prevent virus
infection since a lot of viruses depend on MS Outlook to infect your computer.
I think I purchased my version of Eudora about 4 years ago so thats about 10
bucks per year of use. Check it out. They used to have a free version for
trial but it had a small window for adds that I found annoying. It's a great
program though when you just pay for it. AL
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
> Listers,
> I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
> picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the case
> since Matt has good filters in place.
> I use "block sender" feature on Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the
> senders are wise enough to change their address by one number everytime they
> spam out again.
> If my friends saw my incoming titles they would surely think I was a pervert
> for sure due to the outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each
> day...I am close to taking a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the net
> except for recent real estate sites so I don't know where they are catching
> my address.
> Any suggestions ?
> Austin
> do not archive
Message 58
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--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 01:59 PM 4/23/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Don't they just send mail to the IP address? Your address, joe@foo.com
isn't used as they don't know it. Just like the snail mail you get
addressed to OCCUPANT at your street address.
I get some spam that comes from businesses that get my address and pass it
on. I am sure of that because I get email from companies that offer stuff
I might be interested in. Just like USPO junk mail, it is a pain in the ass.
I wonder if there really is a chance to get in on one of these fifty
million dollars deals from the Congo?
hal PS Speaking of spam: check out my Debonair for sale at
www.moonrovers.com
>It really has nothing to do with your usage these days anyway. We ran a test
>(I happen to be in the software testing business) to see how long it would
>take to get spammed on the creation of a new e-mail address. As an example,
>we set up a hotmail account, who's address was very complicated. Like
>J23334crap!@32@hotmail.com . We never told a sole, and found spam occurring
>w/I 30 minutes, and over 30 messages w/I 3 days. Your address would be easy
>to do for a spammer.
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Eyeball cable bulkhead - new style |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
At 02:48 PM 4/23/2003, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Garry LeGare <versadek@earthlink.net>
>
>Hi Guys,
>You can save a bunch of money by going to a good hardware store or electrical
>supply store and buying an waterproof connector for threaded electrical
>conduit.
>
>They look almost exactly like the new connectors (single hole) that ASAS
>sells,
>except that the Aluminum ball is rubber instead. I found them after
>installing
>three of the old style (multi hole) units on my engine controls. I used
>them on
>my wire penetrations. They are about $3. each and come in different sizes,
>starting with a 1/2".
Rubber is not very useful in the case of an engine fire. That is
why folks spend the extra money on the all-metal ones.
Message 60
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
As kempthornes was saying:
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> At 01:59 PM 4/23/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Don't they just send mail to the IP address? Your address, joe@foo.com
> isn't used as they don't know it. Just like the snail mail you get
> addressed to OCCUPANT at your street address.
Generally speaking, most mailservers reject ip literals, so no.
-Kysh
do not archive
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
| CBR-F4 streetbike - http://www.lapdragon.org/cbr |
| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
| Got 'nix? - http://www.infrastructure.org/ |
| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
| Give blood: Play Hockey! http://www.unixdragon.com/ |
Message 61
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim@mail.canfor.ca>
Hi Martin in Oz;
Sorry for the late reply to this question, but I've been away and am
just catching up. I just finished building the Jim Weir composite antenna. I
found the article on his web site and was able to build it from stuff that I
had in my shop anyways. The only thing that I didn't have was the copper
tape, but I had a sheet of .032 copper, so I used a shear to make two 1/2"
copper strips. A slight weight penalty I know, but I was in the mood to do a
quick fiberglass project and figured if I had to order some, the mood might
pass while I was waiting for delivery.
It was quite easy to build and fair-in nicely. It is painted the
same color as the aircraft. I installed it last night and connected it to my
ICOM A-23 handheld with VOR. It was about 1am when I installed it so there
was no traffic to listen to at our small airport, but the VOR was clear,
accurate and precise (unlike the Yeasu from what I hear). This was from
inside of my garage with a metal roof, located about 7 miles away from the
VOR. The handheld with the "rubber ducky" antenna would not give me a steady
or accurate reading while inside the garage and even outside, but still on
the ground, it was not as good as with this new antenna.
When I get home this afternoon, I will listen in to the tower
traffic for awhile, to see how it is. When I get some free time I will post
pictures of it's construction & finished product on my web site.
Ps. check Aircraft $pruce web site for a blade type antenna. IIRC -- $259
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Martin Hone [SMTP:martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au]
> Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 5:04 PM
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: DIY VHF Antenna
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone"
> <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
>
> =09
> G'Day Listers,
>
> I am considering building my own antenna using Van's copper tape set in a
> streamlined glassfibre strip and mounting on the RV belly. Anyone done
> something similar, or can direct me to to info on DIY antenna construction
> ? I seem to recall something, maybe by Jim Weir, on the subject but
> couldn't find it in the archives.
>
> Regards
>
> Martin in Oz
>
>
>
>
>
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2653.12">
RE: RV-List: DIY VHF Antenna
Hi Martin in Oz;
Sorry for the late reply to this question, but I've been away and am just catching
up. I just finished building the Jim Weir composite antenna. I found the
article on his web site and was able to build it from stuff that I had in my shop
anyways. The only thing that I didn't have was the copper tape, but I had
a sheet of .032 copper, so I used a shear to make two 1/2 copper strips. A slight
weight penalty I know, but I was in the mood to do a quick fiberglass project
and figured if I had to order some, the mood might pass while I was waiting
for delivery.
It was quite easy to build and fair-in nicely. It is painted the same color as
the aircraft. I installed it last night and connected it to my ICOM A-23 handheld
with VOR. It was about 1am when I installed it so there was no traffic to
listen to at our small airport, but the VOR was clear, accurate and precise (unlike
the Yeasu from what I hear). This was from inside of my garage with a metal
roof, located about 7 miles away from the VOR. The handheld with the rubber
ducky antenna would not give me a steady or accurate reading while inside the
garage and even outside, but still on the ground, it was not as good as with
this new antenna.
When I get home this afternoon, I will listen in to the tower traffic for awhile,
to see how it is. When I get some free time I will post pictures of it's construction
finished product on my web site.
Ps. check Aircraft $pruce web site for a blade type antenna. IIRC -- $259
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RX-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB (reserved)
<A HREF"http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm" TARGET"_blank">http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
Imagination is more important than knowledge
-Albert Einstein
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Hone [SMTP:martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au]
Subject: RV-List: DIY VHF Antenna
-- RV-List message posted by: Martin Hone martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au
09
G'Day Listers,
I am considering building my own antenna using Van's copper tape set in a streamlined
glassfibre strip and mounting on the RV belly. Anyone done something similar,
or can direct me to to info on DIY antenna construction ? I seem to recall
something, maybe by Jim Weir, on the subject but couldn't find it in the archives.
Regards
Martin in Oz
Message 62
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| Subject: | EAA Airventure Cup Race |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
A lot of my customers have requested or asked about this race and the insurance
requirements. For them and everyone else:
The VanGuard Program underwriter and most other insurance companies that do homebuilts
support the EAA in that they will meet the EAA insurance requirements
for "races" such as the AirVenture Cup. The waiver of subrogation is the only
thing that most of the companies really have heartburn with providing (but they'll
normally do it for the EAA). That waiver is a promise to not 'go after'
another party that is ultimately responsible for damaging your plane after the
insurance company has paid out a claim.
If you are insured with NationAir, there is no need in sending the requirements
to us, as we already have them here. You merely would need to let us know you
want to participate, and we can request the certificate for you.
Thanks
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Agency
Pleasure and Business Branch
Message 63
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|
| Subject: | alternative engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Do Not Archive
Following the usual syntax of "I don't really know anything
about........but......" I would think that for a first time builder it
would be a lot quicker to get into the air with a lycoming. All the bits
and pieces are available, the plane was designed for it, the insurance
covers it etc. I think it would be great to engineer an alternative engine
I just think maybe one thing at a time.
Now on a subject I really do know about: Beware the project! I'm working
on an RV4 that I bought as a project. The price and all was probably fair
but the problem is I have to go backwards before I can go fowards. I guess
I was in a haze of buying fever but there have been several bits (spar) that
I had to do over. I think I would have spent more time building and less
time head scratching if I had just bought a new kit in stages. There would
have been less to move around and less "why are there 3 bottom outboard wing
skins?" and I could have been earning interest on the money instead of being
surrounded by reproachful piles of aluminum.
As for all the tough talk about money and slacker excuses: flying is fun,
building is fun. Don't worry about trying to justify it or make economic
sense out of it. Its a selfish activity that is a great way to spend time
while we are waiting to meet god, so to speak.
Message 64
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|
| Subject: | Flying with the Dynon-Answers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
Well where do I start. Maybe with the question of "Have you been able to
tumble the instrument when ...blah...blah...blah?"
Easy straight forward , no questions asked answer---NO-See original post!
And how long did it take to recover?->zero minutes, see previous answer.
I have not installed a remote compass module yet. The Dynon folks are still
working on heading calibration software. The goal is to offer a correct
compass heading in all attitudes, until this is done and the magnetic errors
for my installation have been calibrated out, no sense in buying the remote
module till I find out if I will even need it.
The conversion to the Dynon from the Vac system took 2 evenings. First I
made up the wiring harness that is posted on the Dynon site and the next
night I was able to hard wire the harness to power and ground, then slip in
the Dynon and hook it up. Removal of the old stuff took maybe 1 hr.
Is the "heading Gyro" stabilized? Until it is calibrated, I turned it off
and fly off the GPS.
Absolutely the magnetic heading indicator will allow you to fly without a
whiskey compass.
The readability of the screen is better than my Garmin 295. Less readable in
direct sunlight but no problem. I have always flown aerobatics with a
standard G-Meter and like the separate gauge so I left it installed.
Am I comfortable that I could fly in turbulence IFR with a loss of the
Dynon(Partial Panel), No--At that point I figure I will un-strap, get up,
turn around and sit on the stick while waiting for impact in hopes of
confusing the crash investigation team.
Good luck with your decisions,
Paul Stratman
RV-6A N21PS
"Taylor Maid"
Message 65
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
> Hello again, Austin,
>
> Is the spam in the form of e-mail or pop-up ads?
>
> Jack Abell
-----------------------------------------
It is only e-mail.
And many thanks for your very informative post on shimmy.....good stuff !
Austin
do not archive
Message 66
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
Try looking at http://www.giantcompany.com
I downloaded the trial version of their spam removal software and started
bouncing every junk email I got. Cut it down from 30 a day to 3.
Paul Stratman
Message 67
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|
| Subject: | Lowrance airmap 100 GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
For sale: Lowrance airmap deluxe with all accesseries.
I will take best offer and pay shipping cost call me
for details at 214-616-7836.
Glenn Williams
do not archive
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 68
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|
| Subject: | Re: Test Vacum... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Jimm:
Thanks for the suggestion, is one way, but I now
more motivated, to find out, where is the regular
vacumm, tool, or gauge.
It must be available at some auto store...a simple
tool like that, and I can not find it in this city...
I will check with some friends out of this area...
I know when I was in Baltimore, every suto store had them..
Thanks again..
Bert
rv6a
Do Not archive...
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 69
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--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
If anyone in the DFW area would like an A&P to either
assist or build outright your tanks in or out of your
shop please call me. 12+ years of pro-seal application
methods. 214-616-7836
Glenn Williams
do not archive
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 70
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
At 09:41 23/4/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
>Listers,
>I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
>picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the case
>since Matt has good filters in place.
>I use "block sender" feature on Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the
>senders are wise enough to change their address by one number everytime they
>spam out again.
>If my friends saw my incoming titles they would surely think I was a pervert
>for sure due to the outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each
>day...I am close to taking a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the net
>except for recent real estate sites so I don't know where they are catching
>my address.
>Any suggestions ?
>Austin
>do not archive
I have been using an automatic e-mail classification tool called POPFile
for a few weeks, and am very, very happy with it.
See: http://popfile.sourceforge.net/
It isn't quite ready for my mother yet, as it is not quite idiot proof to
set up, but anyone who can build an airplane probably has the smarts to
figure it out. There is a forum on the web site where you can ask for help
if you have trouble.
POPFile acts as a proxy between your e-mail program and your ISP. Your
e-mail program asks POPFile to check the mail, POPFile gets the mail from
your ISP, POPFile decides which category each message belongs in (I use
categories of Spam and Not Spam, but you can have as many categories as you
want). POPFile adds a header to the mail with the category name in it, and
passes the mail to your e-mail program. You set up a filter in your e-mail
program to check the header that POPFile added, and do whatever you want
with the messages. I'm not quite brave enough to automatically delete
those messages it thinks are spam yet, because every week or two it will
flag an innocent message as spam.
You do have to train POPFile, as everyone has a different idea of what spam
is. My spam might be your scantily clad women. It adjusts its definition
of spam whenever you tell it that it made a mistake. I found that I got
acceptable accuracy after about a day, and now it is right about 99.6% of
the time (over about 5,000 messages).
Kevin Horton
Message 71
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|
| Subject: | Lowrance airmap 100 GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Brownfield" <Jim_Brownfield@radical.com>
Hi Glenn,
What accessories do you have, and what are you looking for in price?
Jim
--
Jim Brownfield
Jim_Brownfield@radical.com
Radical System Solutions, Inc.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> glenn williams
> Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 4:58 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Lowrance airmap 100 GPS
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
>
> For sale: Lowrance airmap deluxe with all accesseries.
> I will take best offer and pay shipping cost call me
> for details at 214-616-7836.
>
> Glenn Williams
> do not archive
>
> =====
> Glenn Williams
> 8A
> A&P
> N81GW
>
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 72
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| Subject: | Interior Paint Tips (lots of detail) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
Mark and all that are at this stage,
I just finished doing this yesterday. I used a Vari-prime to prime it,
then semi-gloss gray Imron (DuPont product) over the top. It seemed to
go on just fine and I really like the color. Its actually very close in
color to the Mar-Hyde spray primer that comes in a spray can. Here are
my lessons learned for all that are painting novices like me:
1. I built a spray paint booth similar to the one found at this link:
<http://www.iwantarocket.com/paint_booth.htm>
http://www.iwantarocket.com/paint_booth.htm Additionally, I turned an
Oreck handheld vacuum and an old Harbor Freight respirator into a
positive-pressure fresh air breathing system. These two things were a
good idea because it helped me keep the nasty paint out of my lungs.
Imron has Isocyanates in it, which are not filtered out by regular masks
and are very nasty for your health. I painted all the loose interior
parts (never riveted the floor panels in) in it. Then I took it apart
and re-assembled it around the front end of the airplane in order to
paint the insides.
2. Built up a 'rotisserie' jig for the fuselage to aid in painting the
insides. This was made out of a very simple steel weldment bolted to the
firewall, then bolted to a 750# engine stand purchased from Harbor
Freight for about $40. I also put some 10" wheels on the engine stand to
raise it up a bit more. For the rear part, I bought a steel roller stand
from Harbor Freight for $10 or so and drilled a 1" hole in the top
angle. Then slid a piece of PVC pipe over the tail spring to protect it,
slid that into the hole in the roller stand. Voila! I can now do
'aileron rolls' with the fuselage and work with it at any angle. Made
painting the inside MUCH easier, and its also making the sub-floor in
the front easier. HIGHLY recommend - especially for when you get to
paint the OUTSIDE of the airplane.
3. I followed the following sequence when painting insides, since I had
already primered every part as I was assembling the fuselage.
A. Hit everything with 240 grit sandpaper to smooth out the
imperfections painted into the surfaces.
B. Clean off with diluted Simple Green.
C. Soak with Aqua-Prep. This is a cleaner that I bought from
Aircraft Spruce. It does a great job of cleaning off surfaces,
ESPECIALLY the ones that I already sprayed with Vari-Prime a year ago.
It softens up the primer a bit and makes it tacky and ready to accept
paint.
D. Wipe the Aqua Prep off with lint-free cloth.
E. Wipe off again with tack rags to get any lint or garbage that
might still be there.
F. Spray a light coat of Vari-Prime to re-coat the places I sanded
off and to give the final coat some fresh primer to hold on to.
G. Wipe again with a tack rag. More stuff will come off.
H. Meanwhile, mixed up Imron as per instructions (3 parts color to 1
part activator). Used a postal scale to be precise. Thinned it 20% with
reducer. Let it sit 15-20 minutes before using.
I. Spray a very light misting coat with the Imron.
J. Once that dries, spray two more medium coats with Imron.
4. I purchased a 'short quart' of paint from the local auto body
supplies store for about $80. I was told this was a little less than a
'full quart'. Turned out to be a penny wise and pound foolish. It was
barely enough to finish the inside. I wish I had some more and I would
definitely buy the fullest quart I could if I did it again.
5. Never use syringes to get the paint out of the can like I was trying
to do at first. They can contain silicone (mine did) and will cause the
paint to fisheye really bad (mine did at first).
6. I used a custom-color paint because I wanted to match the
custom-color powdercoat on my rollbar and canopy frame. If I did it
again, I would just use gray Mar-Hyde primer because the color is almost
the same, it comes in spray-cans for touchups, its very tough, and its
cheaper and easier to get more of it if I run out.
I'm by no means an expert, but this is what worked for me and I'm
reasonably pleased with how it turned out. As with all phases of the
project, I learned a lot and I would do it slightly differently if I did
it over again.
Hope this helps someone,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 Slow-build N198G (reserved)
Working on sub-floor and getting ready to hang that engine!!
-----Original Message-----
From: skydive80020 [mailto:skydive80020@yahoo.com]
Subject: [RV-6/6A] Interior Paint
I am looking for information as to what other people have been doing
for interior paint or primer. Pros and Cons for gloss or semi gloss.
And what about ease or difficulty of use.
Thanks, Mark Phipps, RV6A Finish Kit, N242RP
Message 73
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| Subject: | Lowrance airmap 100 GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
Jim this unit has the external gps antenna and
cigarrete lighter adapter, the yoke mount and carrier.
along with carrying case computer cables to upload the
new data (this is a subscription service)and
instruction manual. I paid 490.00 I would like to get
$400. I will be up till at least 11:00 pm if you would
like to call me please do at 214-616-7836 I live in
Fort Worth, Texas
Glenn
--- Jim Brownfield <Jim_Brownfield@radical.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Brownfield"
> <Jim_Brownfield@radical.com>
>
> Hi Glenn,
>
> What accessories do you have, and what are you
> looking for in price?
>
> Jim
> --
> Jim Brownfield
> Jim_Brownfield@radical.com
> Radical System Solutions, Inc.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of
> > glenn williams
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 4:58 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Lowrance airmap 100 GPS
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams
> <willig10@yahoo.com>
> >
> > For sale: Lowrance airmap deluxe with all
> accesseries.
> > I will take best offer and pay shipping cost call
> me
> > for details at 214-616-7836.
> >
> > Glenn Williams
> > do not archive
> >
> > =====
> > Glenn Williams
> > 8A
> > A&P
> > N81GW
> >
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 74
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|
<RV-6and6A@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | DeVilbiss HVLP Gravity Feed Paint Gun Finish Line II |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
The DeVilbiss gun seemes to be relatively popular, so I am posting this
for the archives to provide some tips for anyone that may get this gun
in the future.
1. Purchase a bunch of extra "Fluid Tip Seals". These are little round
plastic rings that go behind the Fluid Tip. They do degrade eventually.
I bought some at AutoBodyDepot.com. They are cheap. Get lots.
2. The gun is very sensitive to proper cleaning and especially to a
proper seal behind the the Fluid Tip. Screw that sucker on tight and
reference #1 above about getting extra seals. I replaced it 3 or 4 times
already just to make sure that seal is correct. I actually learned this
because, as the gun came in the box, there was no seal at all back
there. I always got poor paint atomization, of course, until I
discovered that.
3. Its also sensitive to a good seal on the metal 'Air Cap', so screw
that on pretty tight as well.
4. After EVERY use, clean it out with Acetone or stronger, including
taking the Fluid Needle all the way out. It doesn't take that long, and
it is essential for keeping that thing working well.
5. Use the small (1.4 mm) Fluid tip. It seems to atomize better with the
thin paints that I used. (Vari-Prime and Imron)
6. I used 25-30ish psi at the gun, measured with the trigger pulled.
7. Watch out for moisture in your air system. I used a Harbor Freight
in-line air desiccant at the gun to get the last bit of moisture out.
8. The gun works well with or without the plastic liners work great, but
I think I prefer using the liners. That makes them all-aspect, and its
easier to clean up.
8. As an emphasis, when I had poor results, it was almost always due to
a dirty gun, worn-out fluid tip seal, or just not having the parts
screwed in enough to get an air-tight seal.
Now that I've learned (the hard way) how to use it, I'm very happy with
the gun.
Happy painting,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 Slow Build
About to move to Goldsboro, NC. Any builders out there??
Message 75
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Rv-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
When I take issue with someone on the RV-List that has been of interest
to some then I do not really appreciate the response in private email,
just is not the way it is done. So I may CC this to the list. Telling me
what all of your credential are means nothing when it comes to building
an RV, you cannot use that in the equations when you are talking to
someone that wants to build an airplane. I don't care if you are
managing $1.00 or $120M it means nothing when a person wants to build
their own airplane. If a kid wants to go into the military and fly good
for him, but that is not what he asked about now was it? Just because
you bought a lemmon does not mean we all spend 4-5 hours doing
maintenace for every hour we fly.
You may be the nicest guy in the world but you come off here as, "I
military, I am great." Well bullshit I was military also, did time in
Vietnam. What does that have to do with anything...nothing. Frankly
speaking as a CFI some of the military pilots that had very little
experience in small civilian aircraft were some of the toughest to
checkout in aircraft like Cherokees and Cessnas.
Jerry
do not archive
Vaughn Brock Capt ESC/AWXO wrote:
> You are correct, I had a lemon. Well actually the plane went unmaintained for
4 years and all that little stuff grew into big stuff. The little MX that was
done was half ass and made changing plugs, the kind of job that made you see
red. Such as having to remove the jug to get the threads machined because the
bonehead that put them in cross threaded them.
>
> Skin damage, wing leveler install, complete re wire, new panel, new brakes from
pedal to rotor and you can see the 5 hour per flying hour MX.
>
> By the way I am a program manager for AWACS and have/or are managing over $120M.
My resources are PhDs, scientist, cost, budget analyst, maintainers, pilots
and some of the smartest guys at Boeing, Rockwell, Collins, NG, Litton, Rayethon
etc... I have a decent understanding of flying cost and schedules to build
things.
>
> My numbers are not misleading other than if anything low. My time is worth more
than $50-75 because I simply don't have enough time in the day to do my job
and save your tax money. My error can cost you millions. Divide that out Jerry.
Lets say I go home early for a week to work on my plane and neglect my
job and the $3M I could have saved you in taxes gets by me. What is my time an
hour then? I think dedicated is the word, The word ridiculous is more fitting
for chase your dream advice that seems to spout from some readers.
>
> I think my words are too curt for many and that is not a good enough reason to
dismiss them. It may surprise you that 3 people are writing me to get more
information than "don't listen to the captain and chase your dream" crap some
people have replied. Seems sad that is all they have to offer. "Chase your dream."
Almost comical... Just think if the kid finishes college and flies for
the military. What are his professional chances then? Excellent. Would he
have disposable income and resources to own multiple AC? Yes.
>
> Or, he could simply chase his dream... I'm sure you guys could pep him up if
he needed it.
>
> Brock
>
Message 76
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| Subject: | Shimmy and Groan |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Hi Listers,
> A new/old thread here today.
> I would like a survey of 6A owners who may have some good
> input to these questions.
> -------------------------------
> 1. I have a shimmy in the nose wheel on rollout, just as
> the airplane
> is getting slowed down.
> I tightened the big nut/washers one flat at about 10 hours
> and another 2 flats at 30, with no difference in result. I
> keep the nose tire inflated only to the point where full
> tread meets the tarmac, so it is not overinflated. I find too
> that full back pressure on the stick at start of shimmy will
> correct most of it, but don't know if letting full weight on
> the nose would be better for full contact...I am always
> trying to keep pressure off the nose
> gear..........question.....what do you do ????
Austin, nice to hear from you.
Regarding the nose wheel shimmy - how does one tell if it is the
nosewheel or mains? I recently changed main gear tires, and got shimmy
the first couple flights during roll out. It seems to have fixed
itself, even though I detect no air loss from the tires. Having
previously thought I had nosewheel shimmy from time to time (maybe 15
times out of 350 landings), I'm not certain now if it really was the
nosewheel. I guess I'll need to tape a mirror somewhere on the wing to
watch. Maybe real live nosewheel shimmy leaves no doubt, I don't know.
What say others?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 291 hours
www.rvforum.org **MAY 31st**
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 77
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| Subject: | Prop bushings, Buy, sell or Trade. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEREK REED" <dreed@cdsnet.net>
I have a set of Lycoming 3/8" prop bushings. I need a set of 7/16" bushings.
Will exchange, buy or sell.
Do not archive.
Derek Reed
Message 78
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "j tramontano" <blueirocrt@hotmail.com>
Brock,
As far as the military flying, what air force do you fly a desk for?
""That eye crap you wrote of is BS. It seems you research or drive to fly
is not what it takes at first read. Reads like a slacker with an excuse.""
You have got to be kidding me! Every recruiter in the country pitches this
kind of crap. "Oh no you can get in with bad vision, I arrange for you to go
to Top Gun right away" Yeah, try being on the waiting list to fly tankers!
Ask that recruiter to sign an agreement that you will be flight school bound
and they will get silent. "Well how about a flight engineer or boom operator
in the meantime while I look into it for you." I have talked to a flight
surgeon and one of the Doctors on the board to approve/disapprove laser
corrective vision and they both say no way. With over 450 hours of self paid
hours of training behind me and a few professional ratings I do not think I
am a slacker.
Jeff
Message 79
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| Subject: | Yaesu Aviator Pilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
Rob,
I had this same experience when I tried using the handheld's PTT switch with
a headset plugged in. After calling Yaesu I discovered that you can't use
the PTT on the handheld unit when using the headset adapter. You must use an
external PTT switch in series with the headset adapter. My instruction book
did not address this issue. My Yaesu works fine without the headset adapter.
(I have not yet purchased the separate external PTT switch.) The necessary
external PTT switch is available from Sporty's, Aircraft Spruce and most
other similar suppliers.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob W M Shipley
Subject: RV-List: Yaesu Aviator Pilot
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
I've had this Yaesu handheld navcom for about three years as a backup and
(fortunately) had little occasion to use it to transmit. A couple of weeks
ago whilst providing ground support to a gliding friend I attempted to use
this radio. Receive is fine but Xmit produces a loud 'scream' on any radio
on the frequency. This was tested with three different antennas on the
Yaesu and three different receiving radios.
Does anyone on the list have a similar experience with these radios and what
are suggested solutions? Return to Yaesu?
Thanks
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
---
Message 80
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| Subject: | Dynon EFIS D-10 report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well folks,
The Brown didn't ruin it, it arrived, and all was ready to install, it only
took about three hours to finish, but the panel was already taken apart, and
I had been planning for this unit when the panel was designed so there was
no conversion time. The DG below it is electric so no vacuum mods either.
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/efisd10/
is a quick webpage to pics and an action video. Sorry about the file sizes
and picture orientations, I haven't had time to fix those. Anybody wants to
use the pics/vid go for it... right click on it and save target as yadi
yadi.
The unit is pretty awesome. So my report after one flight, will be limited,
but...
It came with the internal battery charged, so I bumped the on button pulling
it out of the box, by the time I had it in my face it was ready to fly. The
only thing I couldn't get the screen to show me was the bullet tracers while
pulling the trigger and making pow pow noises. It boots up in a second and
the ALT takes about ten seconds to come online.
AIS was 15 kts low at stall and 4kts high at 150kts
ALT was 20ft low on the ground and 70-100ft high at 150kts
I haven't worked this out in my head, but I installed it with a completely
different (homemade)pitot/static tube so I suspect most of this is due to
static error. (I'm not going to be too excited about this as I will install
the factory P/S/AOA when its available.)
The polarized lenses of my clipons are such that if I tilt my head to the
right the screen gets dark, to the left it stays bright. Other than that I
had no problem seeing it at all times in bright sunlight or under clouds. A
few of the pics look dark, but that was due to the auto-light adjust from
the camera.
During rapid acceleration and deceleration the AI does tilt very slightly
fore or aft, left or right depending on which way one is doing this. I was
only able to notice this during the takeoff roll and during braking after
landing. When in the air the AI stayed glued to the actual horizon. It was a
little bizzare as one could easily forget to look outside.
There is an option to have volts, gravity and VSI displayed on the screen
and these displays disappeared several times. I don't know if it was because
I was playing with the menus or what, but I didn't want the G meter to go
away without my specific permission. Confusious once said that unknown
button pushing while flying doesn't always produce consistant results.
The data uploading of checklists (5 with about 15 items per), the ASI
speeds, and Magnetic inclination was very straight forward as was adjusting
the base pitch.
The compass seemed to track somewhat. I ordered it with the external box,
which won't come until they sort out the software issues, but it must have
the internal unit as well????
The unit will automatically power up if the input power is powered on. It
would be nice to have the option of turning this feature off or on as I
don't really like subjecting electronics to starter spikes. So I wired with
a C/B on a switched line rather then the master buss.
The unit comes with an extra serial port, it seems to me that would be a
great place to input OAT data for it to then give TAS, as well as being able
to roughly calculate Density altitude. (It wouldn't be able to tell if there
was a nonstandard rate of pressure change with altitude, but one could have
an alert warning that bleeps above a settable approximate Den ALT)
I, like Paul S., spent about half of the flight trying to saturate the
E-gyros so they would go unstable. It didn't happen today. Or at least I was
saturated before they were.
Other than that I would say this is the next best thing to a Navaid. They
have done an excellent job of designing this unit in that it will fit a
standard panel hole with three wires and three tubes to hook up for most
applications at a price that is very reasonable. If/when they get this unit
certified/TSOd I'm sure they will be able to hook quite a few more $$$ on it
without phazing their sales.
It is definately somthing Van's ought to consider adding to their product
line eventually as well. And I am not employed by Dynon, nor do I receive
any kickbacks other than the fact the their Business Manager, Gillian, has
been very nice to me. (I'm ccing this to her, we'll see if she can use it
get a rai$e ;{)
W
Message 81
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--> RV-List message posted by: "GW" <bossone@cox-internet.com>
Simply go to your email client and block the sender and you will see no more
from that sender. Often the delete me does not work. Or go to www.deaa.org
and ask that your name be added to a national database. You will still
receive SPAM but no UCE. As for snail mail the USPS will not help you.
Without Standard Mail (the old 3rd Class) it is estimated that a stamp would
run you over a buck. Don't expect to find ad free TV, magazines or
newspapers in the near future. Advertisements are a fact of life. I go take
a whiz or dump during a commercil or ignore most mail by putting it in the
round file. Take a look at Sport Aviation and see all the ads.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Subject: RV-List: Spam
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
> Listers,
> I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was being
> picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the
case
> since Matt has good filters in place.
> I use "block sender" feature on Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the
> senders are wise enough to change their address by one number everytime
they
> spam out again.
> If my friends saw my incoming titles they would surely think I was a
pervert
> for sure due to the outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each
> day...I am close to taking a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the
net
> except for recent real estate sites so I don't know where they are
catching
> my address.
> Any suggestions ?
> Austin
> do not archive
>
>
Message 82
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tow bar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
I recently bought the Deluxe Cessna Towbar from Aircraft Spruce. I had to
shorten the spring 1/2 an inch to narrow the grip a bit. I also had to tap
the head and tail of the cotter pin a little bit with a hammer so that the
towbar tube would fit over the tailwheel nut cleanly. Both mods take 10
minutes. It now fits like a glove and works like a charm. As an added bonus
the blue colour matches my paint job perfectly.
Curt
RV-6 23490
Final inspection this Sunday!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-6 tow bar
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
> Larygagnon@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
> >
> > I've just started pulling my RV 6 into and out of my hanger and because
space
> > is tight wanted to use a tow bar. The only thing I can find is the
> > tail-dragger dragger that won't work with my tailwheel fairing. I
looked at
> > a tow bar for a friends Glassair lll that looks like it might work on
the
> > bolt that goes through the tailwheel. Does anyone on the list use it or
some
> > modified Cessna tow bar to move a taildragger? The archives list has a
lot
> > of info on the 6A and 8A but very little on the 6. Is everyone just
pushing
> > on the horizontal stab or prop to move them around? Thanks in advance,
this
> > list is a great source of information.
> >
>
>
> This bar works very well with my RV-6:
>
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/airport.html#towbar
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
Message 83
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| Subject: | Re: ICOM Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
I bought a battery for my ICOM A-22 at Sun-N-Fun at Batteries America. I
paid 39.95 (show special) and it has lasted more than 12 hours (guestimate)
and still hasn't needed to be recharged. Highly recommended.
-David Taylor
207DT (reserved)
Working on the empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "wes hays (SquirrelMail authenticated user whays) by www.camalott.com
with HTTP; Wed" <whays@camalott.com>; <23 Apr 2003
06:14:55.-0600@matronics.com (CST)>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ICOM Battery
> --> RV-List message posted by: wes hays <whays@camalott.com> (SquirrelMail
06:14:55 -0600 (CST)
>
> I would recommend you check your Interstate Battery store. They just
> "reconditioned" a battery pack for a friends I-com. They said they could
> replace all the batteries in the pack for around 30 bucks if the
> reconditioning didn't hold, or they could sell him a new battery pack for
> about $60. That sounded very reasonable since one of the aircraft supply
> stores was going to charge him $150+ for a new battery pack.
>
> Wes Hays
> Winters, TX
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: REGAES@aol.com
> >
> > My backup handheld IC-A22 battery has died. Is there a good source for
> > replacement batterys?
> > CLYDE SEAGER
> > RV4 N28CS
> > PENSACOLA,FL.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 84
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Matt,
I think it would be a good thing if you used Javascript on the matronics.com
site to hide email addresses from spiders (i.e. on the list browser pages,
search results, etc.). For example, instead of having the following in
HTML:
<a href="mailto:dan@somewhere.com">dan@somewhere.com
you could do this:
<SCRIPT LANGUAGE="Javascript"><!--
var u = "dan";
var d = "somewhere.com";
var email = u + "@" + d;
document.write("" + email + "");
// --></SCRIPT>
That will visually produce the identical mailto link, but the email address
cannot be harvested by spiders. This is the technique I use on ALL of my
web pages on all of my web sites in order to minimize email address exposure
to anything but human eyes and a click-worthy web browser.
You may already be doing something like this on your site, but if not, I
highly recommend it. It's easy to implement, and it's only fair that you
protect your subscribers with something simple like this.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spam
> --> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Spam is a big problem on the Internet these days, that's for sure. For
> some perspective, I receive over 100 spam emails to my personal account
> each day! Austin, consider yourself lucky that you only get 8 per day!
> Oh how I long for those days of only 8 spams! :-) I've had this email
> address for over 10 years now and everyone knows me by it including the
> spammers.
>
> Also remember that once your email address is gleaned from somewhere,
> anywhere, it's the beginning of the end. Of course spammers share
> email address lists! Its just a matter of time until its widly
> available.
>
> Austin, in the case of your email address, I just went on to Yahoo and
> put in your email address and got back the following three hits:
>
> http://www.vansairforce.org/6430/0002.html
> http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/austin/finishing_up.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/panel.htm
>
> None of these hits were directly RV-List archive related. If I can
> find your email address in a yahoo search, so can spammers. That's the
> good and bad part of being an active member of the Internet.
>
> I try to look at it this way. When I turn on the TV to watch an hour
> long show, I'm going to have to sit through 15 minutes worth of
> commercials and advertisements. That 25% of my time wasted by
> commercialism. As long as my spam count per day is around 25% of my
> total email volume, its no different than watching TV. Commercialism
> is what makes the world turn. It's here to say in each and every medium
> they can think of. They even force me to watch advertisements in the
> movie theater now... 10 bucks to watch Britney Spears jiggle? Hum,
> maybe not such a bad deal after all... :-)
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
> >--------------
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
> >
> >http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list/0148.html
> >
> >anyone can get to that page and pick up your email address. If it is a
big head
> >ache for you I would email Matt and have him implement some way of hiding
email
> >addresses on the web site.
> >
> >Chris W
> >
> >Austin wrote:
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
> >>
> >> Listers,
> >> I am getting so much spam each day that I wondered if my address was
being
> >> picked up by the RV list somehow, but I really don't think that is the
case
> >> since Matt has good filters in place. I use "block sender" feature on
> >> Outlook, but it doesn't do much, also the senders are wise enough to
change
> >> their address by one number everytime they spam out again. If my
friends saw
> >> my incoming titles they would surely think I was a pervert for sure due
to the
> >> outrageous crap I am getting...about 8 or more each day...I am close to
taking
> >> a hammer to my screen....I hardly browse the net except for recent real
estate
> >> sites so I don't know where they are catching my address.
> >> Any suggestions ?
> >> Austin
> >> do not archive
> >
> >
> >--------------
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
> They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
> temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
>
> Benjamin Franklin
> Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
>
>
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