Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:37 AM - GX60 & SL30 for Sale (Gary Coonan)
2. 05:06 AM - Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help (James E. Clark)
3. 05:36 AM - Re:Rebuilding engines (Larry Pardue)
4. 05:55 AM - Re: Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help (James E. Clark)
5. 06:40 AM - Re: checkerboard painting (John Huft)
6. 08:27 AM - Re: LRI system on a RV9A (Sam Buchanan)
7. 09:30 AM - Rich Mixture (Austin)
8. 09:52 AM - Re: Rich Mixture (Jerry Springer)
9. 11:33 AM - Rebuilding Engines (rpmiller)
10. 11:33 AM - Cure time before leak test (Ken Simmons)
11. 12:20 PM - Re: Rebuilding Engines (Jerry Springer)
12. 12:21 PM - Re: radio tran prob (Michael McGee)
13. 12:47 PM - Sterling Polyurethane Paint Brush application (Bob Haan)
14. 12:56 PM - Re: Cure time before leak test (Evan and Megan Johnson)
15. 01:14 PM - Re: Sterling Polyurethane Paint Brush application (Gil Alexander)
16. 01:35 PM - Reason's to Keep Building! (Stein Bruch)
17. 02:25 PM - Windows viewable sketches (was Todd's Coolant Header Tank...) (David Carter)
18. 02:49 PM - Re: Rich Mixture (Austin)
19. 04:20 PM - Re: Rich Mixture (Alex Peterson)
20. 04:26 PM - Re: Rich Mixture (Gil Alexander)
21. 05:14 PM - Re: Reason's to Keep Building! (Doug Weiler)
22. 05:31 PM - Re: GX60 & SL30 for Sale (Jordan Grant)
23. 05:34 PM - Re: Web Site builder documentation of RV projects - Chris Good's (Chris Good)
24. 05:53 PM - RV8 Vans Ful pump kit (Gert)
25. 06:01 PM - Re: GX60 & SL30 for Sale (lou rubin)
26. 06:07 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (Kyle Boatright)
27. 06:25 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (David Taylor)
28. 06:33 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (Glenn Brasch)
29. 07:03 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (Kyle Boatright)
30. 07:19 PM - FW: Delta Hawk (Bob Hassel)
31. 07:22 PM - More engine choices -- Delta Hawk Files (Chris W)
32. 07:23 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (kempthornes)
33. 07:24 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (kempthornes)
34. 07:26 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (kempthornes)
35. 07:28 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (kempthornes)
36. 07:28 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (Cy Galley)
37. 07:53 PM - Re: Rebuilding Engines (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
38. 07:55 PM - Twin Cities RV Forum (Alex Peterson)
39. 08:02 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (Robert Blum)
40. 08:51 PM - Re: Rich Mixture (Jerry Springer)
41. 09:42 PM - Loran-C vs SL-40 Com interference (bruno)
Message 1
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| Subject: | GX60 & SL30 for Sale |
lancair-list@matronics.com, avionics-list@matronics.com,
beech-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Coonan <gcoonan@comcast.net>
I had lots of inquires on the UPS SL30 & GX60 I posted for sale, but I
accidentally deleted the responses when I was trying to get rid of all the
nonsense threads of late. So here it is again.
Brand new never mounted or powered. Purchased in Sept 02 and 26 month
warranty is transferable (confirmed by UPS)
My Aircraft
GPS GX60 $3,550 $3,795 $ 5,195 w/GPSS -
GPS steering for autopilot
NAV/COM SL30 $2,850 $3,125 $ 4,155
Annunciator ACU 0 $ 625 $ 695
$6,400 $7,545 $10,045
I prefer to sell them together, so I will give priority to anyone who wants
both. My primary purpose is to sell the GX60, so I will not sell the SL30
before the GX60.
Gary M. Coonan .
RV-7 Avionics
gcoonan@comcast.net
Do Not Archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
GlacierI was asked to go flying with a friend who is working on his CFI. He
had access to a Cessna 150 with a releatively new looking (non-King,
non-Cessna [ARC??]) Narco maybe radio.
When you power it up, it comes up with 121.5 set so you have to change and
toggle to what you want.
He mentioned a radio problem so I got my handheld and we checked the radio
on the ground. All seemed fine.
THE PROBLEM:
Since he wanted me to fly I wanted to work the radios as well and when I
fired up the plane and did a "radio check", part of the first transmission
made it and nothing but carrier thereafter.
Several "tests" later showed that:
1. When the plane's engine was NOT running, the radio (transmit) worked
2. When the engine WAS running the radio (transmit) did NOT work
3. Bypassing the intercom and "plugging in direct" had not effect
4. Receive worked in all scenarios
THE QUESTION:
What could be going on here??
MY THEORIES:
1. The radio's "input" section is getting noise that is interferring with
the carrier modulation (but how???)
2. The alternator is REALLY generating some noise (but I don't hear a
"whine")
3. There is a really bad grounding problem somewhere (but it RECEIVES just
fine)
HELP:
What do you think could be the culprit??
THanks,
James
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
I'm not clear on why this information would even come up? I've never had an
insurance company ask who overhauled an engine. If it is a certified
engine, before installation, it was signed off by someone with that
authority. If it is not, how would an insurance company know how to
evaluate the engine builder or rebuilder? The only exception would be the
very large engine companies, that insurance companies would be familiar
with. If it is an Aersport Power engine, for example, the companies would
know who built it.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
>
>
> It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us would
love
> to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the
insurance
> companies would accept it.
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
I meant to send this to the AeroElectric List but if you have an answer, I'd
be happy to see same.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James E. Clark
> Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 8:05 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
> GlacierI was asked to go flying with a friend who is working on
> his CFI. He
> had access to a Cessna 150 with a releatively new looking (non-King,
> non-Cessna [ARC??]) Narco maybe radio.
>
> When you power it up, it comes up with 121.5 set so you have to change and
> toggle to what you want.
>
> He mentioned a radio problem so I got my handheld and we checked the radio
> on the ground. All seemed fine.
>
> THE PROBLEM:
>
> Since he wanted me to fly I wanted to work the radios as well and when I
> fired up the plane and did a "radio check", part of the first transmission
> made it and nothing but carrier thereafter.
>
> Several "tests" later showed that:
>
> 1. When the plane's engine was NOT running, the radio (transmit) worked
>
> 2. When the engine WAS running the radio (transmit) did NOT work
>
> 3. Bypassing the intercom and "plugging in direct" had not effect
>
> 4. Receive worked in all scenarios
>
> THE QUESTION:
>
> What could be going on here??
>
> MY THEORIES:
>
> 1. The radio's "input" section is getting noise that is interferring with
> the carrier modulation (but how???)
>
> 2. The alternator is REALLY generating some noise (but I don't hear a
> "whine")
>
> 3. There is a really bad grounding problem somewhere (but it RECEIVES just
> fine)
>
>
> HELP:
>
> What do you think could be the culprit??
>
>
> THanks,
>
> James
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | checkerboard painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <aflyer@direcway.com>
Well, I was thinking it would be nice if the paint was the same thickness in
both colors of the checkerboard, so that after the clear coat, there would
not be ridges where the colors change...I know, anal, anal.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Frazier, Vincent
A
Subject: RV-List: checkerboard painting
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP How about going to the sign shop, and getting a checkerboard paint
mask.
They have a cutter than works like a pen plotter, and should be able to cut
out a very accurate checkerboard. Buy two of them, apply one and paint one
color, then offset the other mask and paint the other color. SNIP
You don't need 2 masks unless your are a masochist to save 0.1oz of paint
weight. Just paint the base color over the entire area, your rudder for
example, and then apply the checkeboard mask, scuff the area to be painted
carefully with scotchbrite, and apply the contrasting color. Peel the mask
off when dry, crack open a beer and marvel at how awesome it will look at
200mph.
Vince
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: LRI system on a RV9A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Williams Hildred wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Williams Hildred" <WilliamsJrHildred@JohnDeere.com>
>
> I am helping a friend install the LRI on a RV9A.
>
> When the probe is inserted into the angle and plate supplied with the kit,
> there is an 'open area' in front of the probe.
>
> This 'open area' will also be cut into the center wing inspection cover, if
> the LRI template is used to cut the center wing inspection cover.
>
> Should the 'cut out' slot ONLY allow the probe to be inserted thru the probe
> plate and the inspection cover.
>
> OR
>
> Should the 'cutout' in the inspection cover be cut the same size as the
> cutout in the probe plate??
>
> Should the extra 'cutout' hole be filled or closed after the correct angle
> is determined??
>
> Will the 'open area' create a problem in the flying or flight characteristic
> of the wing??
>
> Thank you in advance for your help.
>
> Hildred Williams
> WilliamsJrHildred@JohnDeere.com
Hildred, I had to go back and look at the photos of the LRI installation
in my RV-6 in order to determine whether or not my installation included
the "open area". It seems it does:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/liftreserve.htm
Matter of fact, it appears the surface area of the open area is similar
to that of the opening left when the tie-down rings are removed. I don't
recall any questions arising concerning flight issues in regards to the
ring holes. I have not noticed anything in flight that could be
attributed to the clearance around the probe. I suppose you could cut
the slot a bit tighter if you wanted to clean up the installation.
You will enjoy flying with the LRI! :-)
Sam Buchanan
====================
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Hi Listers,
I was having a nice lie down on the carpet underneath
the RV, wiping off mud streaks, just enjoying the sun lighting up the belly,
when I noticed that the exhaust pipes had black sooty residue coating the
inside.
This was easily wiped off with a finger..( not totally removed however).
Made me think I am running too rich, especially when I look at the belly of
the 6 and I can detect a very thin blackness which becomes more evident if
you wipe a rag over it and then see how white the belly really is
Nobody has ever mentioned to me that they see black smoke from the pipes...
Is this residue unburned fuel ?...Any good engine gurus want to chime in ?
As for mixture, if I remember right, I screwed the mixture nut all the way
in and then backed it out 1.5 turns..
I did try to adjust the nut with a screw driver to detect a change..with
engine running...but sense and fear overcame valor and I quit that.
Between the spinning prop and getting burned on the pipes, my patience ran
out...and starting and stopping each time soon lost its novelty also......
Any input ???
Many thanks,
Austin.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rich Mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Hi Austin,
Couple of things, how aggressively do you lean in flight? And how far do
you taxi after landing with the mixture rich? If the mixture is rich on
the ground while taxiing it does not take long to get the black sooty
exhaust pipes.
Jerry
----------------------
Austin wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
> Hi Listers,
> I was having a nice lie down on the carpet underneath
> the RV, wiping off mud streaks, just enjoying the sun lighting up the belly,
> when I noticed that the exhaust pipes had black sooty residue coating the
> inside.
> This was easily wiped off with a finger..( not totally removed however).
> Made me think I am running too rich, especially when I look at the belly of
> the 6 and I can detect a very thin blackness which becomes more evident if
> you wipe a rag over it and then see how white the belly really is
> Nobody has ever mentioned to me that they see black smoke from the pipes...
> Is this residue unburned fuel ?...Any good engine gurus want to chime in ?
> As for mixture, if I remember right, I screwed the mixture nut all the way
> in and then backed it out 1.5 turns..
> I did try to adjust the nut with a screw driver to detect a change..with
> engine running...but sense and fear overcame valor and I quit that.
> Between the spinning prop and getting burned on the pipes, my patience ran
> out...and starting and stopping each time soon lost its novelty also......
> Any input ???
> Many thanks,
> Austin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Rebuilding Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
previous message starts here
A few days ago, a thread appeared on rebuilding a 320 engine. I asked
whether that impacted the insurability of the aircraft, but nobody had any
answer. John Helms, are you still here? Has anybody who built up his own
engine had any problems with insuring it (assuming they told the insurance
company, of course)?
It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us would love
to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the insurance
companies would accept it.
Gordon Robertson
RV-8
ends here
Why don't you ask an insurance agent and then tell us?
Message 10
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| Subject: | Cure time before leak test |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I finished my first fuel tank and want to leak test it before I seal the
baffle in the other to make sure my technique is OK. The technique for
testing I understand from information in the archives. The question is how
long should you wait for the Proseal to cure before testing or does it
matter?
Thanks
Ken
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
It was just a few weeks ago that this was discussed very
thoroughly here on the list. Remember when JT Helms was
taking such a beating. It was finally determined that insurance
companies would insure the XP360 and some of the auto engines.
Probably most of the insurance topic never made it to the archives
because of the DNA.
Jerry
rpmiller wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
> previous message starts here
>
> A few days ago, a thread appeared on rebuilding a 320 engine. I asked
> whether that impacted the insurability of the aircraft, but nobody had any
> answer. John Helms, are you still here? Has anybody who built up his own
> engine had any problems with insuring it (assuming they told the insurance
> company, of course)?
>
> It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us would love
> to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the insurance
> companies would accept it.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV-8
>
> ends here
>
> Why don't you ask an insurance agent and then tell us?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: radio tran prob |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 22:15 2003-05-02 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
>
>My I com 200 checks out okay. Worked on the way to sun n fun but on way home
>it would receive okay but push the ppt and the amp meter pegs all the way
>over negative. both ppt do this. any ideas where to start trouble shooting?
>
>Jerry Wilken
>Albany Oregon
>N699WP
Verify that your coax is in good shape all the way to the antennae and the
end connections are well made.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 13
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| Subject: | Sterling Polyurethane Paint Brush application |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Haan <bhaan@easystreet.com>
I am in the process of painting my RV6A with Sterling crosslink
Polyurethane Paint (Detco) using the brushing application method.
The process we are using is:
1. Alumiprep (Acid wash) .
2. Alodine.
3. Coat of green chromate primer.
4. Sand out bush or roller marks .
5. One Coat of 94U 1000P white Primer/ Filler.
6. Sand out bush or roller marks .
7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6if needed..
8. Two coats of the Gloss Top Coat Color
We have not been able to get the brush marks to flow out for the gloss top
coats. We are rolling on the paint and tip brushing it to remove the
bubbles left by the roller. We are using abut 15%. thinner..
If you were successful, please.let us know about your process, etc.
Thanks,
Bob
RV6A almost
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Cure time before leak test |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Depends on how you mixed the proseal and the temp in your shop. A good rule
is the fingernail test.
You should be able to press your nail into the mixture and have it bounce
back so that it does not leave
a deep mark. Really you are shooting for a soft rubber feel....like dried
silicone. In warm temps...80 or so up,
my proseal sets in 1 or two days. During the winter when the shop is in the
50's it can take as many as 4 or 5.
Just remember what you are trying to do...pressurize the tank enough to leak
test them without blowing holes
in your sealant. I have never had to wait more than a week....so provided
you mixed properly, that should be a
failsafe waiting period. I have done somewhere around 150 sets by now and
this has always worked for me. If
you have questions or run into any problems feel free to call or email me.
(530)247-0375
P.S.......use two baloons..one inside the other when pressurizing. I find
that one is just not enough to create the
proper pressure in the tanks. The baloons also act as a safety valve if you
over pressurize. One of our local builders
just told me how he accidentally pressurized to the capacity of the air
compressor. He didnt blow up his tank but that would
have been about 10 times the pressure needed! (It must have looked like an
overstuffed pillow)
Cheers....Evan Johnson (just got proseal on the keyboard :)
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cure time before leak test
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
> I finished my first fuel tank and want to leak test it before I seal the
> baffle in the other to make sure my technique is OK. The technique for
> testing I understand from information in the archives. The question is how
> long should you wait for the Proseal to cure before testing or does it
> matter?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ken
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Sterling Polyurethane Paint Brush application |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Bob ... Detco seems to suggest 25% thinner when brushing....
From http://www.detcomarine.com/sltopcoat.htm#BRUSH%20GLOSS%20APPLICATION
"Mix components thoroughly in a clean, non-waxed bucket and allow the
mixture to pre-react thereafter for approximately 45-60 minutes. This is
important to induce the chemical crosslinking process before the material
is spread into a thin film and a much better finish and cure will occur. Do
not add thinner when the components are initially mixed. Just before
application, thin to proper brushing consistency with U-2965 Brushing
Thinner at the rate of about 25% on the average. More or less reducer may
be indicated depending upon the color used and prevailing weather conditions. "
Gil in Tucson - who sprayed a neighbor's dinghy with Sterling paint as
RV practice...:
) It's really tough stuff when cured.
At 12:47 PM 5/3/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Haan <bhaan@easystreet.com>
>
>
>I am in the process of painting my RV6A with Sterling crosslink
>Polyurethane Paint (Detco) using the brushing application method.
>
>The process we are using is:
>1. Alumiprep (Acid wash) .
>2. Alodine.
>3. Coat of green chromate primer.
>4. Sand out bush or roller marks .
>5. One Coat of 94U 1000P white Primer/ Filler.
>6. Sand out bush or roller marks .
>7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6if needed..
>8. Two coats of the Gloss Top Coat Color
>
>We have not been able to get the brush marks to flow out for the gloss top
>coats. We are rolling on the paint and tip brushing it to remove the
>bubbles left by the roller. We are using abut 15%. thinner..
>
>If you were successful, please.let us know about your process, etc.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
>
>RV6A almost
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Reason's to Keep Building! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi All,
Just a short motivational note for those of you still building. Today, like
many Saturdays some of the "local" RVer's (Minnesota/Wisconsin Wingers)
headed out for breakfast. I haven't made it to many of them because of my
job, but this is the second time I went, it was GREAT!
Being kind of a "spontaneous/weather permitting" affair, you never know
who's going to show up. The agreed point today was Redwing, MN to a short
trip into town and breakfast at one of the historic hotels. When arriving
at Redwing, there was a LOT of RV's arriving at the same "agreed upon" time,
and someone even commented that it sounded like Oshkosh.
After 10 minutes and when everyone arrived, there was 14 - yep, FOURTEEN
RV's in attendance that I counted. Nearly every color of the rainbow, type,
engine, etc.. were represented.
It took the hotel shuttle two trips to haul all of us in, but we had a great
time lying about flying, and stuffing our gullets with good pecan & almond
pancakes!
So, the moral of the story is, keep building and you too can travel on
weekends with a really good group of people. Actually a great way to learn
a lot, play around, and spend some dough!
Keep pouding those rivets,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Windows viewable sketches (was Todd's Coolant Header Tank...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Todd ( and/or others on all 3 lists who know how to create "Windows viewable
sketches",
This is a "builder documentation" and "builder put out sketches for peer
review" question/issue.
Todd, I looked at your pictures and the color sketch of your coolant system,
a .jpg file.
Did you do the sketch free hand and scan it? Or, did you use some software
product to draw/sketch it?
With your .jpg file sketch opened and viewed by my Kodak "Imaging for
Windows", I studied the Help document and tried some things, to try to learn
how to "draw" - no luck. The drawing toolbar at bottom is greyed out.
- I notice at the very top of screen, it says, after the icon for the
Imaging viewer software: "Coolant flow system.jpg - Imaging [Read Only]"
- Why would it be "Read Only"? Is there a feature like in spreadsheets
which can be "locked" to prevent changing critical cells?
- Is my "bundled" software one of those damnable "lite" (less features)
versions of "real" software?
I have Intellicad, an Autocad clone, to create drawings with, but drawings
created that way require anyone wanting to view it to have a similar
software package, which many do not.
- So, I'm looking for a drawing tool other than Intellicad/Autocad that
can be viewed by anyone with Windows (and the typical viewers bundled with
it).
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Haywire" <haywire@telus.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Coolant header tank & Coolant filler neck thingy???
> Hi Guys;
> I've been away at tech school for a few months and am just beginning to
get
> back to work on my engine. I did fly home every weekend, but just worked
on
> painting the plane so this is the first I've worked on the engine since
> doing coolant flow tests back in December.
> In an effort to design the most efficient coolant system possible, I've
> built my own header tank. I've drawn a diagram of the system similar to
the
> diagram provided by Lyn. To finish this tank I need to put a cap on it. I
> searched the internet for aluminum filler necks and found some in England,
> but while looking through my repair manual I found a pic of a bolt-on
> plastic flange mount filler neck. This is shown in the pic "rad cap filler
> neck". Can somebody out there tell me if this is just a mount for a filler
> cap or if it is for a pressure cap? Can I also get the dimensions of it
with
> & without the cap.
> The "coolantheadertank" pics show how it will be mounted & the "coolant
> recovery bottle" pic is an old snowmobile coolant tank modified. Side port
> on this tank has been plugged and bottom port has been modified to accept
a
> 3/8 hose.
> Comments, criticism are welcome, but I'd really like the info on the
filler
> neck thingy, so I can order one tomorrow if it is appropriate.
> Thanks
>
> S. Todd Bartrim
> Turbo 13B rotary powered
> RV-9endurance (FWF)
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "Imagination is more important than Knowledge"
> -Albert Einstein
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 25/02/03
>
----
> >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rich Mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
Jerry wrote..............
> Couple of things, how aggressively do you lean in flight?
Actually, not at all below 3,000 ft., also I have never been sure how much
to lean is appropriate...I keep thinking of detonation, fried valves etc.,
so I always fly " conservative rich ".....I would like to know more about
this.
And how far do you taxi after landing with the mixture rich?
Not real far, but was never aware that it was a good idea to lean coming
back to the barn.
Good idea though...
If the mixture is rich on
> the ground while taxiing it does not take long to get the black sooty
> exhaust pipes.
Thanks a lot Jerry, yours was the only reply I got.
Austin
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Austin, go to:
http://www.avweb.com/
and search for Deakin. There are many, many articles written by him on
running engines. They are good reading, beware many of his works have
caveats, such as "for fuel injected engines only", but good stuff.
There is a four part series that is relatively new, but many other good
articles also.
> Actually, not at all below 3,000 ft., also I have never been
> sure how much to lean is appropriate...I keep thinking of
> detonation, fried valves etc., so I always fly " conservative
> rich ".....I would like to know more about this.
>
> And how far do you taxi after landing with the mixture rich?
> Not real far, but was never aware that it was a good idea to
> lean coming back to the barn. Good idea though...
Lean during taxi until it starts to croak, then add just enough to keep
it running. Always lean aggressively on the ground, so that you would
immediately find out if you attempt to take-off without going to full
rich (it won't accelerate if it is aggressively leaned).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 296 hours
www.rvforum.org MAY 31ST!
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Rich Mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Austin .... these links might help.
I always lean on the ground to peak rpm. If you do this, you can't take
off with the same mixture setting by mistake ... the engine will just
stutter on application of full throttle.
And lean for max rpm on the ground if above 5000 ft Density Alt.
gil in Tucson
- flying a Grumman Tiger with an
O-360 and Fixed pitch prop at a DA of >5000 when it's over 81 deg. F (83
deg. F on the porch now...:
)
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/leaningEngines.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/sparkPlugFouling.html
http://www.planeandpilotmag.com/content/pastissues/2002/feb/avgas101.html
At 02:21 PM 5/3/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
>Jerry wrote..............
>
> > Couple of things, how aggressively do you lean in flight?
>
>Actually, not at all below 3,000 ft., also I have never been sure how much
>to lean is appropriate...I keep thinking of detonation, fried valves etc.,
>so I always fly " conservative rich ".....I would like to know more about
>this.
>
>And how far do you taxi after landing with the mixture rich?
>Not real far, but was never aware that it was a good idea to lean coming
>back to the barn.
>Good idea though...
>
>If the mixture is rich on
> > the ground while taxiing it does not take long to get the black sooty
> > exhaust pipes.
>Thanks a lot Jerry, yours was the only reply I got.
>Austin
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Reason's to Keep Building! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Do Not Archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just a short motivational note for those of you still building. Today,
like
> many Saturdays some of the "local" RVer's (Minnesota/Wisconsin Wingers)
> headed out for breakfast. I haven't made it to many of them because of my
> job, but this is the second time I went, it was GREAT!
>
> Being kind of a "spontaneous/weather permitting" affair, you never know
> who's going to show up. The agreed point today was Redwing, MN to a short
> trip into town and breakfast at one of the historic hotels. When arriving
> at Redwing, there was a LOT of RV's arriving at the same "agreed upon"
time,
> and someone even commented that it sounded like Oshkosh.
>
> After 10 minutes and when everyone arrived, there was 14 - yep, FOURTEEN
> RV's in attendance that I counted. Nearly every color of the rainbow,
type,
> engine, etc.. were represented.
>
> It took the hotel shuttle two trips to haul all of us in, but we had a
great
> time lying about flying, and stuffing our gullets with good pecan & almond
> pancakes!
>
> So, the moral of the story is, keep building and you too can travel on
> weekends with a really good group of people. Actually a great way to
learn
> a lot, play around, and spend some dough!
>
> Keep pouding those rivets,
>
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis.
I have to second Stein's comments since I was also at our usual Sat AM
pancake extravaganza. This is becoming a ritual each Sat around here. The
only down side to this is that I am beginning to realize that I own the only
$60,000 pancake procurement device in the neighborhood.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
Message 22
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| Subject: | GX60 & SL30 for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
Gary,
I'm interested in the GX60. Unfortunately, I do not want to buy
the SL30. Please let me know if you do not find someone that wants to
buy both units.
Thanks,
Jordan Grant
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Coonan
rv8-list@matronics.com; lancair-list@matronics.com;
avionics-list@matronics.com; beech-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: GX60 & SL30 for Sale
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Coonan <gcoonan@comcast.net>
I had lots of inquires on the UPS SL30 & GX60 I posted for sale, but I
accidentally deleted the responses when I was trying to get rid of all
the nonsense threads of late. So here it is again.
Brand new never mounted or powered. Purchased in Sept 02 and 26 month
warranty is transferable (confirmed by UPS)
My Aircraft
GPS GX60 $3,550 $3,795 $ 5,195
w/GPSS -
GPS steering for autopilot
NAV/COM SL30 $2,850 $3,125 $ 4,155
Annunciator ACU 0 $ 625 $ 695
$6,400 $7,545 $10,045
I prefer to sell them together, so I will give priority to anyone who
wants both. My primary purpose is to sell the GX60, so I will not sell
the SL30
before the GX60.
Gary M. Coonan .
RV-7 Avionics
gcoonan@comcast.net
Do Not Archive
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Web Site builder documentation of RV projects - Chris Good's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
David,
Thanks for the kind words about my web site. I hope you continue to find it useful.
Having initially figured out how to do a few simple things, I just edit the raw
html files with additions to the site. The tables are typically MS Excel spreadsheets
- Excel has an "export to html" function. The systems section, that
includes wiring diagrams, was created as an MS Powerpoint presentation set of
slides. Powerpoint has an "export to html" function that creates the pages on
the web site.
I've used the web site as my main method of documenting my work on the 6A, & I
continue to refer to it frequently.
Regards,
Chris Good
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 530 hrs flying
http://rv.supermatrix.com
--
On Fri, 2 May 2003 15:41:43
David Carter wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
>Chris Good,
>
>Thanks for calling attention to your excellent website. I've looked at
>others (not all, by any means) and have seen others who have posted "some"
>info on their RV - but your site is absolutely fabulous! Total
>documentation of anything I could think of to look up.
> - I highly recommend this web site to anyone building an RV!!
>
>Just yesterday I got my courage up again and did the first update/practice
>on my own primitive website since Nov 2000. I've changed computers since
>then and had to find and learn how to use a different FTP uploader pgm, and
>made a new checklist on how to add "daily" (periodic) update pages to the
>site.
>
>Now the wife & I need to learn how to download pictures from our digital
>camera we bought last Fall and have never downloaded.
>
>I am at the stage of creating schematics and wiring diagrams for my RV-6
>electrical system, and plan to use IntelliCAD (open architecture clone of,
>and compatible with, Autocad ), starting off with, and modifying, Bob
>Nuckoll's drawings and symbols. I noticed your nice wiring info - color,
>etc. What program did you use to create such elegantly simple and clear
>graphic info?
>
>About your website, did you copy source code from someone else - like I do -
>and modify it? Or, did you have a professional web site person design it
>for you? I have the 27 page "NCSA - A Beginner's Guide to HTML" document
>that I printed off the internet - I use it for my main reference for HTML
>stuff . I create & edit web documents with Notepad, the simplest text
>editor. Any tips for us new guys to "web site documentation of our
>projects"?
>
>David Carter
> http://www.datarecall.net/~dcarter
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
Message 24
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|
rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | RV8 Vans Ful pump kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Hi Folks
I am about to embarj\k on installing the fuel line related items in my
RV8. I was looking at the "Installation Kit for RV-8/8A including Pump
and Filter" Van's sells for 550 dollars.
Anybody have experience with this kit, good, bad, or indifferent.
Anybody knows where to get the items cheaper separate ??
I have a IO360-A1B to feed.........
Thanks
gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 25
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| Subject: | GX60 & SL30 for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lou rubin" <lourubin@hotmail.com>
>From: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60 & SL30 for Sale
>Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 19:31:05 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
>
>Gary,
> I'm interested in the GX60. Unfortunately, I do not want to buy
>the SL30. Please let me know if you do not find someone that wants to
>buy both units.
>
>Thanks,
> Jordan Grant
>on the Matronics
Hi Jordon& Gary
Im interested in buying the SL 30 from Gary.
Since he wants to sell them both together, it would be advantagous if we
bought them together
please email Gary & advise Thanks Lou
864 377 0828 cell
ForumsJordaon======================================================================
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Look at it this way:
Unless you have an IA or A/P maintain your engine, it will be "uncertified"
after the first time you do any maintenance on it...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
>
> It is great to get some real RV information coming in again. Thanks
guys!
>
> A few days ago, a thread appeared on rebuilding a 320 engine. I asked
> whether that impacted the insurability of the aircraft, but nobody had any
> answer. John Helms, are you still here? Has anybody who built up his
own
> engine had any problems with insuring it (assuming they told the insurance
> company, of course)?
>
> It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us would
love
> to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the
insurance
> companies would accept it.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV-8
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
I've heard that it is uncertified once you put it on an experimental and
must be certified again to be put on a certified aircraft. Does anyone know
exactly how the reg reads or is this one of those gray areas?
-David Taylor (N207DT reserved)
Empenage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
> Look at it this way:
>
> Unless you have an IA or A/P maintain your engine, it will be
"uncertified"
> after the first time you do any maintenance on it...
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
> >
> > It is great to get some real RV information coming in again. Thanks
> guys!
> >
> > A few days ago, a thread appeared on rebuilding a 320 engine. I asked
> > whether that impacted the insurability of the aircraft, but nobody had
any
> > answer. John Helms, are you still here? Has anybody who built up his
> own
> > engine had any problems with insuring it (assuming they told the
insurance
> > company, of course)?
> >
> > It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us would
> love
> > to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the
> insurance
> > companies would accept it.
> >
> > Gordon Robertson
> > RV-8
> >
> >
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
I was told that once the engine gets bolted on to an experimental, the
engine is then experimental for it's life and cannot be used on normal
category aircraft. Am I wrong? Glenn in Arizona -9A
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
>
> I've heard that it is uncertified once you put it on an experimental and
> must be certified again to be put on a certified aircraft. Does anyone
know
> exactly how the reg reads or is this one of those gray areas?
>
>
> -David Taylor (N207DT reserved)
> Empenage
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Look at it this way:
> >
> > Unless you have an IA or A/P maintain your engine, it will be
> "uncertified"
> > after the first time you do any maintenance on it...
> >
> > KB
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson"
<res0rlvx@verizon.net>
> > >
> > > It is great to get some real RV information coming in again. Thanks
> > guys!
> > >
> > > A few days ago, a thread appeared on rebuilding a 320 engine. I asked
> > > whether that impacted the insurability of the aircraft, but nobody had
> any
> > > answer. John Helms, are you still here? Has anybody who built up
his
> > own
> > > engine had any problems with insuring it (assuming they told the
> insurance
> > > company, of course)?
> > >
> > > It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us would
> > love
> > > to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the
> > insurance
> > > companies would accept it.
> > >
> > > Gordon Robertson
> > > RV-8
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
The regs are that IF you buy and install a certified engine, it can remain a
certified engine IF the maintenance performed on that engine is done to the
same standards as required on a certified engine. In other words, certified
parts, certified (i.e. licensed) mechanics, etc.. The bottom line is that a
certified mechanic must fill out a piece of paper which indicates that the
engine still conforms to certified standards.
Do all of that, and you could uninstall the engine from your RV and bolt it
onto a Cessna or Piper.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
>
> I've heard that it is uncertified once you put it on an experimental and
> must be certified again to be put on a certified aircraft. Does anyone
know
> exactly how the reg reads or is this one of those gray areas?
>
>
> -David Taylor (N207DT reserved)
> Empenage
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Look at it this way:
> >
> > Unless you have an IA or A/P maintain your engine, it will be
> "uncertified"
> > after the first time you do any maintenance on it...
> >
> > KB
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson"
<res0rlvx@verizon.net>
> > >
> > > It is great to get some real RV information coming in again. Thanks
> > guys!
> > >
> > > A few days ago, a thread appeared on rebuilding a 320 engine. I asked
> > > whether that impacted the insurability of the aircraft, but nobody had
> any
> > > answer. John Helms, are you still here? Has anybody who built up
his
> > own
> > > engine had any problems with insuring it (assuming they told the
> insurance
> > > company, of course)?
> > >
> > > It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us would
> > love
> > > to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the
> > insurance
> > > companies would accept it.
> > >
> > > Gordon Robertson
> > > RV-8
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hassel" <bob@hassel-usa.com>
From another list I monitor:
Bob Hassel
Do Not Archive
====================
Forwarded from RAH
To all,
No more "next year", no more "soon", and certainly no flying down the
runway at 8 inches and calling it a day. The DeltaHawk engine has
finally flown. Here is the official blurb.
DeltaHawk, Inc. announces the long-awaited first flight of its DH160V4
Turbodiesel aircraft engine. A Velocity RG powered by the 160 horsepower
upright V-4 engine, weighing just over 300 pounds and burning jet fuel,
took off from John H. Batten Airport in Racine, Wisconsin at 12:01 PM on
May 3, 2003. In a flight lasting 38 minutes, test pilot and DeltaHawk
Chief Engineer, Doug Doers reached an altitude of 5500 feet MSL and
achieved a maximum airspeed of 140 knots before returning for an
uneventful landing. Doug reported the flight and engine performance were
nearly perfect. Following almost 7 years of development, the flight is a
milestone in DeltaHawks history. The company will begin delivering
engines to its loyal and patient customers in the first quarter of 2004.
Those holding DeltaHawk Delivery Position Agreements (DPA) may contact
DeltaHawk at sales@deltahawkengines.com to confirm their intentions. New
customers wishing to establish a Delivery Position can download the DPA
form from the DeltaHawk website, which contains up to date information
and new, high-resolution first flight photos, at: www.deltahawkengines.com
Exciting news as this is, the proverbial "rest of the story" is what
will really turn your cranks. Stay tuned and come see us at Oshkosh......
Dave Driscoll
Defiant N3XK "what could be better than one DeltaHawk?"
To change your email address, visit
http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector
Visit the gallery! tvbf:jamaicangoose
Message 31
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| Subject: | More engine choices -- Delta Hawk Files |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
The Delta Hawk diesel, burning jet fuel, flew for the first time today.
Looks like we have one more choice in the engine department now.
do not archive
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 09:06 PM 5/3/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
>Look at it this way:
>
>Unless you have an IA or A/P maintain your engine, it will be "uncertified"
>after the first time you do any maintenance on it...
I always get into trouble on this one but many rv builders are more
skilled, intelligent and more dedicated than very many professional
mechanics.
My experience with A&P's is limited. Some are impressive, many are boneheads.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 06:34 PM 5/3/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
>I was told that once the engine gets bolted on to an experimental, the
>engine is then experimental for it's life and cannot be used on normal
>category aircraft. Am I wrong? Glenn in Arizona -9A
Yes.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 10:00 PM 5/3/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
>The regs are that IF you buy and install a certified engine, it can remain a
>certified engine IF the maintenance performed on that engine is done to the
>same standards as required on a certified engine. In other words, certified
>parts, certified (i.e. licensed) mechanics, etc.. The bottom line is that a
>certified mechanic must fill out a piece of paper which indicates that the
>engine still conforms to certified standards.
>
>Do all of that, and you could uninstall the engine from your RV and bolt it
>onto a Cessna or Piper.
Don't do all that and you will have to sell it to the many RV builders for
big money.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 09:22 PM 5/3/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
>
> I've heard that it is uncertified once you put it on an experimental and
>must be certified again to be put on a certified aircraft. Does anyone know
>exactly how the reg reads or is this one of those gray areas?
Why would you want to put it on a standard certified aircraft? By the way,
our RV's are certified aircraft.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
The engine can be re-certified by an A&P. He might want to disassemble to
check that everything is proper, but there is NO reg that states your engine
can be never certified again.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> I was told that once the engine gets bolted on to an experimental, the
> engine is then experimental for it's life and cannot be used on normal
> category aircraft. Am I wrong? Glenn in Arizona -9A
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
> >
> > I've heard that it is uncertified once you put it on an experimental
and
> > must be certified again to be put on a certified aircraft. Does anyone
> know
> > exactly how the reg reads or is this one of those gray areas?
> >
> >
> > -David Taylor (N207DT reserved)
> > Empenage
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> > <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> > >
> > > Look at it this way:
> > >
> > > Unless you have an IA or A/P maintain your engine, it will be
> > "uncertified"
> > > after the first time you do any maintenance on it...
> > >
> > > KB
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson"
> <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
> > > >
> > > > It is great to get some real RV information coming in again.
Thanks
> > > guys!
> > > >
> > > > A few days ago, a thread appeared on rebuilding a 320 engine. I
asked
> > > > whether that impacted the insurability of the aircraft, but nobody
had
> > any
> > > > answer. John Helms, are you still here? Has anybody who built up
> his
> > > own
> > > > engine had any problems with insuring it (assuming they told the
> > insurance
> > > > company, of course)?
> > > >
> > > > It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us
would
> > > love
> > > > to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the
> > > insurance
> > > > companies would accept it.
> > > >
> > > > Gordon Robertson
> > > > RV-8
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott@shaw.ca>
The last three months, Light Plane Maintenance magazine has run a series on
rebuilding an 0-320.
Scott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rebuilding Engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
> previous message starts here
>
> A few days ago, a thread appeared on rebuilding a 320 engine. I asked
> whether that impacted the insurability of the aircraft, but nobody had any
> answer. John Helms, are you still here? Has anybody who built up his
own
> engine had any problems with insuring it (assuming they told the insurance
> company, of course)?
>
> It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us would
love
> to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the
insurance
> companies would accept it.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV-8
>
> ends here
>
> Why don't you ask an insurance agent and then tell us?
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Twin Cities RV Forum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Greetings RVers!
Just a reminder that the 9th Annual Twin Cities RV Forum is just 4 weeks
away, Saturday, May 31st. This event, which is held in Minneapolis,
Minnesota, has become quite the event , with over 200 registered RV
enthusiasts in attendance last year! Additionally, over 35 RV's flew in
last year, with about 15 of these on display indoors. Details can be
found at www.rvforum.org, check back there often as the site is
continually being updated.
Thanks,
Alex Peterson
Chairman, Twin Cities RV Forum
do not archive
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Blum <bob@theblums.net>
Yes you are.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> At 06:34 PM 5/3/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
> >
> >I was told that once the engine gets bolted on to an experimental, the
> >engine is then experimental for it's life and cannot be used on normal
> >category aircraft. Am I wrong? Glenn in Arizona -9A
>
> Yes.
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Rich Mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Austin,
I can't remember if you have a FP or CS prop? If you have a FP prop a
good way to lean is
to slowly pull the mixture to lean watching the rpm. If you are rich it
should increase rpm, note
what that max. rpm is. Continue to lean until your rpm is about 100 rpm
below the max. lean
rpm you noted or it start to run rough then slowly richen the mixture
tell the rpm is again back
to the max. rpm you saw when you started leaning. At this point push
the mixture control in
JUST A TINY BIT if you wish, so you are not running at max. lean. This
works well if you
do not have an EGT gauge with probes to all four cylinders. Some
carb/engine combinations
have a tendency to run rich so you may want or have to lean even below
3000 ft. Any time
I am in level flight regardless of altitude I lean.
If you have a CS the easiest way is to use a EGT gauge that has probes
for four cylinders
and then lean to the leanest running cylinder. The numbers are not as
important as just seeing
where the numbers peak before starting back down. Some people like to
run at max. lean others
like to run 50 degrees or so on the rich side of lean. I believe there
is also a school of thought that
says you can run on the lean side. I do not believe you well have any
problems with fried cylinders
or detonation if timing and correct grade of fuel are being used.
Jerry
Austin wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
>
>Jerry wrote..............
>
>
>
>>Couple of things, how aggressively do you lean in flight?
>>
>>
>
>Actually, not at all below 3,000 ft., also I have never been sure how much
>to lean is appropriate...I keep thinking of detonation, fried valves etc.,
>so I always fly " conservative rich ".....I would like to know more about
>this.
>
>And how far do you taxi after landing with the mixture rich?
>Not real far, but was never aware that it was a good idea to lean coming
>back to the barn.
>Good idea though...
>
>If the mixture is rich on
>
>
>>the ground while taxiing it does not take long to get the black sooty
>>exhaust pipes.
>>
>>
>Thanks a lot Jerry, yours was the only reply I got.
>Austin
>
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Loran-C vs SL-40 Com interference |
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Hello All
From time to time I've got a bad scratching noise in my Com radio
cause by my Loran-C ( Flybuddy 800 )and as soon as I turn the Loran "off',it
disappeared.
I'm wondering if anyone on the list have had the same problem and
what was the solution to it?
My Com / Loran antennas are mounted on top behind the canopy on my
RV-4 about a foot apart.
Thanks for any info you may have
Bruno Dionne
rv4@videotron.ca
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