Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:24 AM - Re: Rebuilding engines (RVer273sb@aol.com)
2. 05:43 AM - Re: Rich Mixture (Sam Buchanan)
3. 05:46 AM - Re: Windows viewable sketches (was Todd's Coolant Header (Mark Phillips)
4. 07:35 AM - Here at last-RV 8 FAIRINGS (Imfairings@aol.com)
5. 07:50 AM - Re: Rebuilding engines (Patrick Kelley)
6. 09:02 AM - Emp. Fairnig screws (Gary)
7. 10:00 AM - Re: Rich Mixture (Denis Walsh)
8. 10:07 AM - Re: Emp. Fairnig screws (Elsa & Henry)
9. 10:11 AM - Re: Rich Mixture (Eustace Bowhay)
10. 10:17 AM - Re: Emp. Fairnig screws (Marcel)
11. 11:39 AM - Re: Emp. Fairnig screws (Michael McGee)
12. 11:44 AM - O-320 core on Ebay (Brian Denk)
13. 11:46 AM - Re: radio tran prob found (WPAerial@aol.com)
14. 11:55 AM - Re: Emp. Fairnig screws ()
15. 12:17 PM - Rebuilding Engines (rpmiller)
16. 12:29 PM - Re: Emp. Fairnig screws (Michael McGee)
17. 01:43 PM - Re: Rebuilding Engines/Light Plane Maintenance (Boyd C. Braem)
18. 01:52 PM - Re: Was... Dynon, now whiskey compass (Boyd C. Braem)
19. 01:57 PM - Re: GX60 & SL30 for Sale (Gary Coonan)
20. 02:32 PM - Re: low and slow/shooting airplanes (Boyd C. Braem)
21. 02:41 PM - Re: Re: Low and Slow (Boyd C. Braem)
22. 04:27 PM - Alternator pulleys (Dick DeCramer)
23. 06:27 PM - Re: Alternator pulleys (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
24. 07:34 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (Sam Buchanan)
25. 08:40 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
26. 08:40 PM - Re: Rebuilding engines (Cy Galley)
27. 09:53 PM - Re : Alternator pulleys (Martin Hone)
28. 10:39 PM - Re: Re : Alternator pulleys (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
Listers,
All good points here....However once you bump up
compression, install a prop that is not certified for that
engine, install experimental eletronic ignition ect it is no
longer considered certified.
In other words any unaproved change from the original
type certificate makes it experimental.
This is my understanding.
Stewart RV4 Co.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rich Mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Austin,
> I can't remember if you have a FP or CS prop? If you have a FP prop a
> good way to lean is
> to slowly pull the mixture to lean watching the rpm. If you are rich it
> should increase rpm, note
> what that max. rpm is. Continue to lean until your rpm is about 100 rpm
> below the max. lean
> rpm you noted or it start to run rough then slowly richen the mixture
> tell the rpm is again back
> to the max. rpm you saw when you started leaning. At this point push
> the mixture control in
> JUST A TINY BIT if you wish, so you are not running at max. lean. This
> works well if you
> do not have an EGT gauge with probes to all four cylinders. Some
> carb/engine combinations
> have a tendency to run rich so you may want or have to lean even below
> 3000 ft. Any time
> I am in level flight regardless of altitude I lean.
<snip>
I have a fixed pitch prop and use the "white knuckle" method of leaning;
pull the little red knob out until my passenger's knuckles turn white
then push the little red knob back in a little.......... ;-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, always leaned on the ground)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Windows viewable sketches (was Todd's Coolant Header |
Tank...)
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Not sure if your Intellicad has the same feature, but in AutoCad R14 you can
click on "File", then "Export" and save the drawing or parts of the drawing by
selecting what you want to send elsewhere- (don't forget to select the items you
want exported) The drop down box at the bottom allows you to save in various
formats such as widows metafile (.wmf) or bitmap (.bmp). There are a number of
other formats that I am unfamiliar with. I have successfully exported complex
drawings as bitmaps, converted them to .jpg in photo editing apps for
compression, then inserted into my builders log (Word .doc). You could just
keep them in bitmap form, but they can get awfully big, file size wise.
Sometimes the detail is reduced, but they are usually quite viewable and
mailable.
Hope this helps!
From The PossumWorks
Mark
David Carter wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Todd ( and/or others on all 3 lists who know how to create "Windows viewable
> sketches",
>
> This is a "builder documentation" and "builder put out sketches for peer
> review" question/issue.
>
> Todd, I looked at your pictures and the color sketch of your coolant system,
> a .jpg file.
>
> Did you do the sketch free hand and scan it? Or, did you use some software
> product to draw/sketch it?
>
> With your .jpg file sketch opened and viewed by my Kodak "Imaging for
> Windows", I studied the Help document and tried some things, to try to learn
> how to "draw" - no luck. The drawing toolbar at bottom is greyed out.
> - I notice at the very top of screen, it says, after the icon for the
> Imaging viewer software: "Coolant flow system.jpg - Imaging [Read Only]"
> - Why would it be "Read Only"? Is there a feature like in spreadsheets
> which can be "locked" to prevent changing critical cells?
> - Is my "bundled" software one of those damnable "lite" (less features)
> versions of "real" software?
>
> I have Intellicad, an Autocad clone, to create drawings with, but drawings
> created that way require anyone wanting to view it to have a similar
> software package, which many do not.
>
> - So, I'm looking for a drawing tool other than Intellicad/Autocad that
> can be viewed by anyone with Windows (and the typical viewers bundled with
> it).
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Haywire" <haywire@telus.net>
> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Coolant header tank & Coolant filler neck thingy???
>
> > Hi Guys;
> > I've been away at tech school for a few months and am just beginning to
> get
> > back to work on my engine. I did fly home every weekend, but just worked
> on
> > painting the plane so this is the first I've worked on the engine since
> > doing coolant flow tests back in December.
> > In an effort to design the most efficient coolant system possible, I've
> > built my own header tank. I've drawn a diagram of the system similar to
> the
> > diagram provided by Lyn. To finish this tank I need to put a cap on it. I
> > searched the internet for aluminum filler necks and found some in England,
> > but while looking through my repair manual I found a pic of a bolt-on
> > plastic flange mount filler neck. This is shown in the pic "rad cap filler
> > neck". Can somebody out there tell me if this is just a mount for a filler
> > cap or if it is for a pressure cap? Can I also get the dimensions of it
> with
> > & without the cap.
> > The "coolantheadertank" pics show how it will be mounted & the "coolant
> > recovery bottle" pic is an old snowmobile coolant tank modified. Side port
> > on this tank has been plugged and bottom port has been modified to accept
> a
> > 3/8 hose.
> > Comments, criticism are welcome, but I'd really like the info on the
> filler
> > neck thingy, so I can order one tomorrow if it is appropriate.
> > Thanks
> >
> > S. Todd Bartrim
> > Turbo 13B rotary powered
> > RV-9endurance (FWF)
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "Imagination is more important than Knowledge"
> > -Albert Einstein
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 25/02/03
> >
>
> ----
>
> > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> >
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Here at last-RV 8 FAIRINGS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Good Morning,
I now have upper and lower (wheel pant) fairings for the RV-8. The uppers
are $95 for a set for both legs, the lowers (wheel pant) fairings are $105
for the set for both legs. Shipping and handling are extra.
See my web site to order or order direct from me 360/659-5055.
<A HREF="www.fairings-etc.com">www.fairings-etc.com
Bob
Fairings-Etc.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
I'd add that doing any work on it, unless you hold a powerplant license,
will also render it uncertified. Merely attaching it to an experimental
does not render it uncertified, and I seem to recall that an A&P can
return it to certificated status. No copy of the regs at hand, but it
has been discussed before so you should be able to find out in the
archives...
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - My painter's taking his sweet time on my
parts...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RVer273sb@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
Listers,
All good points here....However once you bump up
compression, install a prop that is not certified for that
engine, install experimental eletronic ignition ect it is no
longer considered certified.
In other words any unaproved change from the original
type certificate makes it experimental.
This is my understanding.
Stewart RV4 Co.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Emp. Fairnig screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
My -9A drawings call for using flat head #6 screws for attaching the empannage
fairing. The fiberglass is too thin to countersink that deep. What methods did
you guys use, and would you do it that way again?
Thanks,
Gary
---
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rich Mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
> Jerry Springer wrote:
>> >
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>> >
>> > Austin,
>> > I can't remember if you have a FP or CS prop? If you have a FP prop a
>> > good way to lean is
>> > to slowly pull the mixture to lean watching the rpm. If you are rich it
>> > should increase rpm, note
>> > what that max. rpm is. Continue to lean until your rpm is about 100 rpm
>> > below the max. lean
>> > rpm you noted or it start to run rough then slowly richen the mixture
>> > tell the rpm is again back
>> > to the max. rpm you saw when you started leaning. At this point push
>> > the mixture control in
>> > JUST A TINY BIT if you wish, so you are not running at max. lean. This
>> > works well if you
>> > do not have an EGT gauge with probes to all four cylinders. Some
>> > carb/engine combinations
>> > have a tendency to run rich so you may want or have to lean even below
>> > 3000 ft. Any time
>> > I am in level flight regardless of altitude I lean.
> <snip>
>
>
> I have a fixed pitch prop and use the "white knuckle" method of leaning;
> pull the little red knob out until my passenger's knuckles turn white
> then push the little red knob back in a little.......... ;-)
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, always leaned on the ground)
>
>
Sam that=B9s the way the Navy taught me to do it 48 years ago and I haven=B9t
found a better way despite my constant speed prop, multiple egts, and fuel
flow meter. Other methods produce soot, lead fouling, and/or rough running.
As far as engine damage from over leaning, I subscribe to the belief this is
not possible with a carburetted normally aspirated (vanilla) Lycoming
engine. Therefore I lean the crap out of it all the time, and then enrich
until smooth.
That=B9s my story and I=B9m sticking to it.
While my superstitions abound, in this case the Lycoming Operator=B9s handbook
supports me. I would also recommend this archaic source to all for =B3how to=B2
adjust the idle mixture and idle speed! It can make a big difference in
sooting.
As a foot stomping foot note: I have discovered my O-360A1A CANNOT be
flooded out with any mixture setting. It will happily eat all the gas you
can give it without missing a beat! (at least up to 15,000 MSL) So I
consider leaning a mandatory procedure for engine health and economy.
Denis
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Emp. Fairnig screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Gary,
If your Emp. fairing fits so well that you don't have to add any further
cloth or epoxy, congratulations! On my 6A I had to do just that and there
was no problem countersinking for the #6 screws. How about #4 screws? I used
them to attach my wing-tip fairings. (kit supplied by Cleaveland Tools).
Cheers!!------Henry Hore
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rich Mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
You can't go wrong following Jerry's post. I used this method until the
advent of good EGT gauges. As Jerry mentions this allows one to lean
accurately at any altitude. The procedure that I am most comfortable with is
to use full rich for take-off unless at an airport above 5000 ft. I reduce
power to 75% for the climb and start leaning , arriving at cruise altitude
go to peak minus 50.
If one can afford it go with a graphic display, for me it is a poor man's
engine analyzer and can do a lot for detecting trouble before it gets
serious. Safety is the number one priority.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rich Mixture
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Austin,
> I can't remember if you have a FP or CS prop? If you have a FP prop a
> good way to lean is
> to slowly pull the mixture to lean watching the rpm. If you are rich it
> should increase rpm, note
> what that max. rpm is. Continue to lean until your rpm is about 100 rpm
> below the max. lean
> rpm you noted or it start to run rough then slowly richen the mixture
> tell the rpm is again back
> to the max. rpm you saw when you started leaning. At this point push
> the mixture control in
> JUST A TINY BIT if you wish, so you are not running at max. lean. This
> works well if you
> do not have an EGT gauge with probes to all four cylinders. Some
> carb/engine combinations
> have a tendency to run rich so you may want or have to lean even below
> 3000 ft. Any time
> I am in level flight regardless of altitude I lean.
>
> If you have a CS the easiest way is to use a EGT gauge that has probes
> for four cylinders
> and then lean to the leanest running cylinder. The numbers are not as
> important as just seeing
> where the numbers peak before starting back down. Some people like to
> run at max. lean others
> like to run 50 degrees or so on the rich side of lean. I believe there
> is also a school of thought that
> says you can run on the lean side. I do not believe you well have any
> problems with fried cylinders
> or detonation if timing and correct grade of fuel are being used.
>
> Jerry
>
> Austin wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <6430@axion.net>
> >
> >Jerry wrote..............
> >
> >
> >
> >>Couple of things, how aggressively do you lean in flight?
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Actually, not at all below 3,000 ft., also I have never been sure how
much
> >to lean is appropriate...I keep thinking of detonation, fried valves
etc.,
> >so I always fly " conservative rich ".....I would like to know more about
> >this.
> >
> >And how far do you taxi after landing with the mixture rich?
> >Not real far, but was never aware that it was a good idea to lean coming
> >back to the barn.
> >Good idea though...
> >
> >If the mixture is rich on
> >
> >
> >>the ground while taxiing it does not take long to get the black sooty
> >>exhaust pipes.
> >>
> >>
> >Thanks a lot Jerry, yours was the only reply I got.
> >Austin
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Emp. Fairnig screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marcel" <mbourgon@elp.rr.com>
Greetings from El Paso
We also wondered about these screws. We went ahead and used those trim
washers that are already dimpled ready for screws. Worked out real well
Marcel in El Paso, rv-9a and rv-7a under construction
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Emp. Fairnig screws
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
> My -9A drawings call for using flat head #6 screws for attaching the
empannage fairing. The fiberglass is too thin to countersink that deep.
What methods did you guys use, and would you do it that way again?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Emp. Fairnig screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Look around for some of the fairings that are held on by just two screws at
the aft end (one on each side). This makes for a very nice looking fairing
and only two nutplates to install instead of two dozen. The fairing is a
one piece unit that wraps around the empennage and attaches in the
back. The fairing adds no structural component to the tail.
Anyone have a web site link handy that shows one of these?
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
At 09:57 2003-05-04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
>My -9A drawings call for using flat head #6 screws for attaching the
>empannage fairing. The fiberglass is too thin to countersink that
>deep. What methods did you guys use, and would you do it that way again?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Gary
Message 12
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| Subject: | O-320 core on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
There is an O-320 core on Ebay with a "buy it now" of about $4k. Worth a
look.
Item number is 2413911421
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: radio tran prob found |
--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
After working hours and finding nothing that would stop amp meter from
pegging. Decided radio is setting up a field and meter is reading the out put
of radio transmission. That is all I know about it, can't give reason or
details.
Jerry Wilken
Albany Oregon
N699WP
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Emp. Fairnig screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
Is this what you are refering too?
http://www.fairings-etc.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael McGee" <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Emp. Fairnig screws
> --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
> Look around for some of the fairings that are held on by just two screws
at
> the aft end (one on each side). This makes for a very nice looking
fairing
> and only two nutplates to install instead of two dozen. The fairing is a
> one piece unit that wraps around the empennage and attaches in the
> back. The fairing adds no structural component to the tail.
>
> Anyone have a web site link handy that shows one of these?
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
>
> At 09:57 2003-05-04 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
> >
> >My -9A drawings call for using flat head #6 screws for attaching the
> >empannage fairing. The fiberglass is too thin to countersink that
> >deep. What methods did you guys use, and would you do it that way again?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Gary
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Rebuilding Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Hey, look, useful information. Thankyou. Do you have any contact
information for this magazine, and could you tell me which issues I should
look for. Thankyou
rpmiller in portland
> Time: 07:53:40 PM PST US
> From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott@shaw.ca>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding Engines
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jaye and Scott Jackson
<jayeandscott@shaw.ca>
>
> The last three months, Light Plane Maintenance magazine has run a series
on
> rebuilding an 0-320.
> Scott in VAncouver
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Emp. Fairnig screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Nope. I'm talking about a one piece unit that fits top and bottom and
secured by two screws just ahead of the rudder. Wally Anderson's RV-6
from Eugene Oregon was the first plane I saw with this fairing, he made it
himself. No screws visible until you move the elevator and look under
it. Wally won a champion award at Osh in '96 (I think) and his 6A won
another champion in '01 or '02. I've seen a few planes since with this
fairing.
Mike
At 13:56 2003-05-04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
>Is this what you are refering too?
>
>http://www.fairings-etc.com/
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Michael McGee" <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Emp. Fairnig screws
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
> >
> > Look around for some of the fairings that are held on by just two screws
>at
> > the aft end (one on each side). This makes for a very nice looking
>fairing
> > and only two nutplates to install instead of two dozen. The fairing is a
> > one piece unit that wraps around the empennage and attaches in the
> > back. The fairing adds no structural component to the tail.
> >
> > Anyone have a web site link handy that shows one of these?
> >
> > Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> > 13B in gestation mode
> >
> > At 09:57 2003-05-04 -0600, you wrote:
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
> > >
> > >My -9A drawings call for using flat head #6 screws for attaching the
> > >empannage fairing. The fiberglass is too thin to countersink that
> > >deep. What methods did you guys use, and would you do it that way again?
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >Gary
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding Engines/Light Plane Maintenance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
The O-320 Overhaul articles (including test running the completed
engine) were FEB, MARCH, APRIL, 2003. The MAY issue goes into hanging
the engine and running all the cables, wires, plumbing, etc. The
articles are written to the owner of certificated iron, so they tend to
be very conservative and anal--but, knowing that, it actually works to
the benefit of a do-it-yourselfer.
Light Plane Maintenance
PO Box 420234
Palm Coast, FL 32142
800.829.9085
lightplane@palmcoastd.com
The sisiter publication "AVIATION CONSUMER" (same address) is also a
gem. Their "forte" article is a comparison of similar products (ie,
used nav/coms--big screen displays (IIIC, KMD-150, MX-20, etc.)).
http://www.aviationconsumer.com
I am not affiliated with these mags in any way, but over the years I
think I can truthfully say that these two publications have saved me
tens of thousands of dollars.
Boyd
RV-Super 6
Venice, FL
rpmiller wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
>Hey, look, useful information. Thankyou. Do you have any contact
>information for this magazine, and could you tell me which issues I should
>look for. Thankyou
>
>rpmiller in portland
>
>
>
>>Time: 07:53:40 PM PST US
>>From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott@shaw.ca>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding Engines
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jaye and Scott Jackson
>>
>>
><jayeandscott@shaw.ca>
>
>
>>The last three months, Light Plane Maintenance magazine has run a series
>>
>>
>on
>
>
>>rebuilding an 0-320.
>>Scott in VAncouver
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Was... Dynon, now whiskey compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
If I recall correctly, (I don't have the book immediately at hand) the
current FARs require you to have a "magnetic heading indicator", not a
"compass".
Boyd
RV Super Six
4,300 fpm with the nose up and looking for God (or,
Whoever.....actually, I hope it's (GV, notice the apostrophe) a female
being of some sort--I like being cuddled)
PS: there's a rumor that a Navy crew in a F-4J Phantom II out of NAS
Key West (Boca Chica) made it up to 75,000 ft after a series of porpoise
maneuvers. The NATOPS manual did not certify the aircraft for sustained
level flight at this altitude, but no one ever claimed w...they were
straight and level.
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> The CAF P-51C only has a remote electric compass. Our mechanics had a
> hissy
> fit at the first annual, but after much gnashing of teeth, it was
> determined
> that it was legal in the big war and it is legal today.
>
> Doug Rozendaal
> RV-4 and Hater of (EX-F-4 Phantom) Rocket Drivers.....
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <mstewart@qa.butler.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Was... Dynon, now whiskey compass
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
> >
> >
> > Mike Stewart
> >
> > <Snip>
> > Since it has a magnetic heading function,
> > can I remove the whiskey compass
> > <snip>
> >
> > Brian Denk
> >
> > I have only the Rocky Mtn. elec compass module in my RV, no whiskey,
> DAR
> > told me it was no problem during inspection. The regs are a little
> behind
> > the times here. I expect debate coming.
> >
> > Mike Stewart
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | GX60 & SL30 for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Coonan <gcoonan@comcast.net>
I have one guy ahead of you that wants both, if he does not follow thru
I will wt you know.
Gary M. Coonan .
RV-7 Avionics
<mailto:gcoonan@comcast.net> gcoonan@comcast.net
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jordan Grant
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60 & SL30 for Sale
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
Gary,
I'm interested in the GX60. Unfortunately, I do not want to buy
the SL30. Please let me know if you do not find someone that wants to
buy both units.
Thanks,
Jordan Grant
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Coonan
rv8-list@matronics.com; lancair-list@matronics.com;
avionics-list@matronics.com; beech-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: GX60 & SL30 for Sale
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Coonan <gcoonan@comcast.net>
I had lots of inquires on the UPS SL30 & GX60 I posted for sale, but I
accidentally deleted the responses when I was trying to get rid of all
the nonsense threads of late. So here it is again.
Brand new never mounted or powered. Purchased in Sept 02 and 26 month
warranty is transferable (confirmed by UPS)
My Aircraft
GPS GX60 $3,550 $3,795 $ 5,195
w/GPSS -
GPS steering for autopilot
NAV/COM SL30 $2,850 $3,125 $ 4,155
Annunciator ACU 0 $ 625 $ 695
$6,400 $7,545 $10,045
I prefer to sell them together, so I will give priority to anyone who
wants both. My primary purpose is to sell the GX60, so I will not sell
the SL30
before the GX60.
Gary M. Coonan .
RV-7 Avionics
gcoonan@comcast.net
Do Not Archive
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: low and slow/shooting airplanes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
As opposed to humans in aeroplanes who sit upright, when falcons dive
their head is down (ie, below their heart). Thus, when they start the
pull-up from the dive, the brain is positively loaded and the defining
traumatic incident would be some kind of blood vessel rupture, or, of
course, slamming into the ground (which they actually do from time to
time)--they don't get the low brain blood pressure gray/black-out that
people do. When the Air Force was testing the prototype F-16, the
aircraft was capable of killing(well, making them unconcious) its test
pilots during certain computer conrolled (>9 g) high-g manuevers (I am
not claiming that any pilot died in this scenario)--but, in the right
conditions, just about all modern military fighters, if not controlled
by software, could happily fly away with a dead pilot in the seat.
That's why some gliders and fighters (along with that little problem
about the ejection seat) have you sitting in a Barca Lounger in the
cockpit When I was young and in top condition I could hold an 8-g turn
with about 50% "gray-out" vision loss from the periphery--this was with
the g-suit and trying to do that stupid valsalva (M1/M2) maneuver--which
seemed to work great with the centrifuge but not so good in a real
airplane (you've got some other important things to do if you're in a
situation where you're pulling that many g's and like, maybe someone is
shooting at you). I once did a 9g 360 turn and was totally blind--I
could hear and talk and move my hands and feet, but everything was
totally gray--as soon as I released stick pressure the whole world came
back in beautiful color.
For many years I owned property adjacent to the Palmer Ranch in Sarasota
County, FL. At the time it was an active beef cattle operation. I had
opportunity to talk to their Foreman, "Mitch" on numerous occassions,
and he asserted that Florida statutes allowed him to "shoot" people that
were harming the property or the cattle (it's an old law from the
"cowboy" days--Florida is still the second largest beef producer in the
US--IIRC)--looking at him and his rifle, I wasn't predisposed to yank
his chain. I don't have the statute# in hand, but it would be
interesting to see what it actually says--I will try to look it up.
JRWillJR@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
>
>
> <snip>
> ", then the rancher takes a pot shot at me and I
> can't blame him."
> Hey, that sounds fun, do I get to shoot back?
>
> Just funning you guys. I did read somewhere that Perigrine Falcons can
> pull
> about 12 G, that could be a dream I had though. <snip>
>
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Low and Slow |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Tom--100 ft??
Bullsh** I have a photo you sent of the automatic picture taking thingy
on the remote radar sender at Nellis AFB range and your F-4 wingtip, in
a 80-90 deg angle of bank, is maybe 8 ft off the ground, if that.
Thanks for protecting the taxpayer
resources--hahahahahahahahahahahah!!!! The XO of our squadron at NAS
Key West (Boca Chica) once came back with mangrove leaves in parts of
the undercarriage of his F-4. He wrote up a squawk that his altimeter
crapped. The F-4 is truly a blessed aircraft but is the final proof
that if you put two J-79s on a rock with moveable control surfaces, you
can make it fly.
Boyd.
Learning how to cropdust in SW FL.
Tom Gummo wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> do not archive - please
>
> MY OPINION PLEASE DELETE NOW IF NOT INTERESTED
>
> Low and Slow - Get a helicopter. :-(
> Low and Fast is the way to go.
> Get a RV with a big engine or a Harmon Rocket II. :-)
> I just love going out into the desert (staying 500 feet away from people,
> places, and things) and flying as low as I can, as fast as I can. It
> puts a
> smile on my face.
>
> I sure miss 100 foot low level flights in the F-4G which we would do
> at 480
> knots ground speed. However on some missions, if we had a little
> extra fuel
> and the proper airspace, we would push it up and do high 600 to low 700
> knots on the deck. It makes your heart race, the hair on your head stand
> up, put wood in your .... (you know but the list is G rated and should
> be).
>
> The bottom line, Low and Slow or Low and Fast, stop by APV (I am in the
> phone book) and lets tell stories and hangar fly. There is room in the
> pilot world for both. I just happen to be one who loves FAST.
>
> Tom Gummo
> "GummiBear"
> Retired F-4G Wild Weasel Instructor Pilot
> Prez of EAA Chapter 768
> Teller of tall tails (some maybe true)
> Pilot and owner of N561FS Harmon Rocket II
> Apple Valley, CA
> Apple Valley Airport - Building #6 Hangar #1
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Alternator pulleys |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Someone was looking for 4" alternator pulleys for Honda style alternators.
According a 1991 Rvator one supplier is Sid Goldin, Specialized Aircraft
Tools, 142 N. Peppertree, Visalia, CA 93291.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 0-320 Slider
Final Finishing
Northfield, MN
diesel@rconnect.com
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator pulleys |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 05/04/2003 4:29:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
diesel@rconnect.com writes:
> Someone was looking for 4" alternator pulleys for Honda style alternators.
> According a 1991 Rvator one supplier is Sid Goldin, Specialized Aircraft
> Tools, 142 N. Peppertree, Visalia, CA 93291.
>
>
> Dick DeCramer
> RV6 0-320 Slider
> Final Finishing
> Northfield, MN
> diesel@rconnect.com
>
Hi All,
I'm sorry to report this, but Sid Goldin died some time ago.
He was a good friend of mine. Sid rebuild pneumatic squeezers, and provided
various specialty tools. He always had some new time saving tools he had
developed.
Jim Ayers
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Patrick Kelley wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
>
> I'd add that doing any work on it, unless you hold a powerplant license,
> will also render it uncertified. Merely attaching it to an experimental
> does not render it uncertified, and I seem to recall that an A&P can
> return it to certificated status. No copy of the regs at hand, but it
> has been discussed before so you should be able to find out in the
> archives...
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - My painter's taking his sweet time on my
> parts...
'Bout to take a stroll through a minefield, but here goes.........
According to my reading of the FARs (even though any of us should take
on interpreting the FARs at our own risk) it is allowable for *anyone*
to perform *any* work on a certificated engine or airframe as long as
the proper approved individual (A&P or AI, whichever applies) is willing
to risk their career, reputation, and first-born by signing the logbook
that the work meets their approval.
Here is a quote:
"FAR 43.3 Persons authorized to perform maintenance, preventive
maintenance, rebuilding, and alterations.
(d) A person working under the supervision of a holder of a mechanic or
repairman certificate may perform the maintenance, preventive
maintenance, and alterations that his supervisor is authorized to
perform, if the supervisor personally observes the work being done to
the extent necessary to ensure that it is being done properly and if the
supervisor is readily available, in person, for consultation. However,
this paragraph does not authorize the performance of any inspection
required by Part 91 or Part 125 of this chapter or any inspection
performed after a major repair or alteration."
The real world application of this FAR is that you can do any work on
your certificated or experimental engine or airframe you wish........as
long as you can convince an A&P, AI, or holder of repairman certificate
that you know what you are doing, and they are willing to sign the
logbook to that effect.
That is how I was able to overhaul the engine and do extensive work on
an airframe overhaul on a Cub even though I don't hold an A&P or AI
certificate.
It is a common misconception that ordinary Joe can't touch certain
components on his certificated aircraft. The regs state otherwise as
long as the proper logbook entries are made. Taken to the extreme, we
could do all maintainance/repair on our certificated aircraft and
engines as long as we have a very trusting AI friend!
Exceptions may exist in the realm of avionics, haven't explored that
area yet.
Sam Buchanan (expecting to hear that I have misinterpreted the regs,
don't hesitate, blaze away!)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Sam Buchanan wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> Patrick Kelley wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
> >
> > I'd add that doing any work on it, unless you hold a powerplant license,
> > will also render it uncertified. Merely attaching it to an experimental
> > does not render it uncertified, and I seem to recall that an A&P can
> > return it to certificated status. No copy of the regs at hand, but it
> > has been discussed before so you should be able to find out in the
> > archives...
> >
> > Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - My painter's taking his sweet time on my
> > parts...
>
> 'Bout to take a stroll through a minefield, but here goes.........
>
> According to my reading of the FARs (even though any of us should take
> on interpreting the FARs at our own risk) it is allowable for *anyone*
> to perform *any* work on a certificated engine or airframe as long as
> the proper approved individual (A&P or AI, whichever applies) is willing
> to risk their career, reputation, and first-born by signing the logbook
> that the work meets their approval.
>
> Here is a quote:
>
> "FAR 43.3 Persons authorized to perform maintenance, preventive
> maintenance, rebuilding, and alterations.
>
> (d) A person working under the supervision of a holder of a mechanic or
> repairman certificate may perform the maintenance, preventive
> maintenance, and alterations that his supervisor is authorized to
> perform, if the supervisor personally observes the work being done to
> the extent necessary to ensure that it is being done properly and if the
> supervisor is readily available, in person, for consultation. However,
> this paragraph does not authorize the performance of any inspection
> required by Part 91 or Part 125 of this chapter or any inspection
> performed after a major repair or alteration."
>
> The real world application of this FAR is that you can do any work on
> your certificated or experimental engine or airframe you wish........as
> long as you can convince an A&P, AI, or holder of repairman certificate
> that you know what you are doing, and they are willing to sign the
> logbook to that effect.
>
> That is how I was able to overhaul the engine and do extensive work on
> an airframe overhaul on a Cub even though I don't hold an A&P or AI
> certificate.
>
> It is a common misconception that ordinary Joe can't touch certain
> components on his certificated aircraft. The regs state otherwise as
> long as the proper logbook entries are made. Taken to the extreme, we
> could do all maintainance/repair on our certificated aircraft and
> engines as long as we have a very trusting AI friend!
>
> Exceptions may exist in the realm of avionics, haven't explored that
> area yet.
>
> Sam Buchanan (expecting to hear that I have misinterpreted the regs,
> don't hesitate, blaze away!)
>
that is pretty correct Sam...... Phil Sisson at Litchfield, IL A 'n' P
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Changing the C.R. might make it un-certified but using non-certified
accessories will not.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVer273sb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rebuilding engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
>
> Listers,
> All good points here....However once you bump up
> compression, install a prop that is not certified for that
> engine, install experimental eletronic ignition ect it is no
> longer considered certified.
> In other words any unaproved change from the original
> type certificate makes it experimental.
> This is my understanding.
> Stewart RV4 Co.
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re : Alternator pulleys |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
Hi Dick,
with reference to obtaining a 4 inch alternator pulley, I went to the local industrial
supply outfit and bought an alloy v-belt pulley with a 1/2 inch centre
hole and simply machined the boss offset to suit the spacing required on the
Vans 35 amp alternator. Cheap but effective. Maybe your local hardware outlet
will have them, otherwise try the engineering supplyers.
Martin in Oz
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Re : Alternator pulleys |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Everyone keeps talking about getting a 4" pully. My question is why?
It cannot be because they turn to fast.
Jerry
do not archive
Martin Hone wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
>
> Hi Dick,
>
> with reference to obtaining a 4 inch alternator pulley, I went to the local industrial
supply outfit and bought an alloy v-belt pulley with a 1/2 inch centre
hole and simply machined the boss offset to suit the spacing required on the
Vans 35 amp alternator. Cheap but effective. Maybe your local hardware outlet
will have them, otherwise try the engineering supplyers.
>
> Martin in Oz
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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