Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:32 AM - Re: Re : Alternator pulleys (Jim Jewell)
2. 07:01 AM - Re: Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help (Bill Dube)
3. 07:30 AM - Re: Sterling Polyurethane Paint Brush application (Scott Bilinski)
4. 07:57 AM - Taildragger Wheel Landings (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
5. 08:24 AM - Re: Emp. Fairnig screws (Scott Bilinski)
6. 08:24 AM - Parachutes (Ed Kowalski)
7. 08:31 AM - Re: Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help (James E. Clark)
8. 08:36 AM - Re: Re : Alternator pulleys (James E. Clark)
9. 08:39 AM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Rob Prior)
10. 08:47 AM - Re: FW: Delta Hawk (Bill Dube)
11. 08:47 AM - Charts (Lenleg@aol.com)
12. 08:48 AM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Scott Brumbelow)
13. 08:56 AM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Randy Lervold)
14. 08:56 AM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (James E. Clark)
15. 08:58 AM - Turbocharged RV-6 (Phil Smith)
16. 09:16 AM - Manifold Pressure Connection (Mark Phillips)
17. 09:19 AM - Re: Turbocharged RV-6 (Scott Bilinski)
18. 09:27 AM - Re: Charts (Boyd C. Braem)
19. 09:31 AM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (RV6 Flyer)
20. 09:32 AM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Bob)
21. 09:33 AM - Re: Charts (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
22. 09:50 AM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Doug Rozendaal)
23. 10:01 AM - Re: Re : Alternator pulleys (Michael McGee)
24. 10:06 AM - amp meter reads radio tran (WPAerial@aol.com)
25. 10:17 AM - Re: Turbocharged RV-6 (Konrad Werner)
26. 10:32 AM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Tedd McHenry)
27. 10:35 AM - Re: FW: Delta Hawk (Bob Hassel)
28. 10:52 AM - certification (Wheeler North)
29. 11:15 AM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (David Carter)
30. 11:15 AM - Pop Rivet Help! (JCTV)
31. 11:26 AM - pic on RV8A paint job (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
32. 11:32 AM - Re: Charts (David Carter)
33. 11:38 AM - Hi-Res 3 View of RV-6A (Stucklen, Frederic IFC)
34. 11:44 AM - Re: Charts (David Carter)
35. 11:44 AM - Protecting the Canopy (Doug Landmann)
36. 11:58 AM - Re: Pop Rivet Help! (Scott Bilinski)
37. 12:15 PM - Re: certification (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
38. 12:20 PM - Fw: Taildragger Wheel Landings (James Freeman)
39. 12:30 PM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Brian Huffaker)
40. 12:33 PM - Re: Charts (Bill VonDane)
41. 12:33 PM - Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
42. 12:36 PM - Re: Pop Rivet Help! (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
43. 12:38 PM - Re: Protecting the Canopy (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
44. 12:42 PM - Re: Protecting the Canopy (Todd Wenzel)
45. 12:43 PM - Re: Hi-Res 3 View of RV-6A (Jim Jewell)
46. 01:01 PM - Re: Charts (Dan Checkoway)
47. 01:07 PM - Re: Protecting the Canopy (Jim Jewell)
48. 01:08 PM - Re: Protecting the Canopy (Bruce Gray)
49. 01:15 PM - Re: Re: Low and Slow (Tom Gummo)
50. 01:24 PM - Re: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! (Ralph E. Capen)
51. 01:48 PM - Re: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! (C. Rabaut)
52. 02:13 PM - RV8 back seat instruments (lucky macy)
53. 02:14 PM - Re: Protecting the Canopy (van Bladeren, Ron)
54. 03:04 PM - Re: RV8 back seat instruments (Rob Prior)
55. 03:08 PM - Re: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! (Scott Bilinski)
56. 03:14 PM - Re: certification (Matthew Maxson)
57. 03:32 PM - Re: RV8 back seat instruments (lucky macy)
58. 03:32 PM - Re: RV8 back seat instruments (Brian Denk)
59. 03:38 PM - Re: Pop Rivet Help! (Elsa & Henry)
60. 03:42 PM - Re: RV8 back seat instruments (lucky macy)
61. 03:45 PM - Re: RV8 back seat instruments (Bill VonDane)
62. 03:48 PM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Scott Vanartsdalen)
63. 04:01 PM - Re: RV8 back seat instruments (Terry Watson)
64. 05:17 PM - Zen and the art of engine rebuilding (Gordon Robertson)
65. 05:42 PM - Re: Protecting the Canopy (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
66. 05:43 PM - Re: Zen and the art of engine rebuilding (Jerry Springer)
67. 05:49 PM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Nels Hanson)
68. 06:09 PM - Re: Pop Rivet Help! (Michael D. Crowe)
69. 06:19 PM - Re: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
70. 06:27 PM - Re: RV8 back seat instruments (lucky macy)
71. 06:33 PM - Flightsuits Spoken For...Thanks for your emails... (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
72. 06:36 PM - NEVAF Fly-in June 21st. (Bob Di Meo)
73. 06:48 PM - ohio builders (Top Secret)
74. 06:50 PM - Re: Re : Alternator pulleys (Martin Hone)
75. 06:59 PM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
76. 06:59 PM - Re: ohio builders (RGray67968@aol.com)
77. 07:22 PM - Re: ohio builders (Curt Hoffman)
78. 07:41 PM - Re: Pop Rivet Help! (Clayton Henderson)
79. 08:47 PM - Parking fee for an RV at San Jose International - $50! (kempthornes)
80. 08:49 PM - rv flyin in Cadillac, MI (Doug Bell)
81. 09:42 PM - Re: Re: Re : Alternator pulleys (Jim Jewell)
82. 10:05 PM - Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings (aronsond)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Re : Alternator pulleys |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Martin,
Jerry would like to know "why the 4" pulley"?.
Are you convinced that slowing the alternator down will:
Reduce horse power consumption?
Reduce bearing failure?
Reduce belt failure?
Save fuel?
Reduce brush wear?
Reduce the risk of over voltage problems?
With a 4" pulley does the alternator run too slow at idle to produce full
regulated output?
Enquiring minds and all that,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : Alternator pulleys
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Everyone keeps talking about getting a 4" pully. My question is why?
> It cannot be because they turn to fast.
>
> Jerry
> do not archive
>
>
> Martin Hone wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone"
<martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
> >
> > Hi Dick,
> >
> > with reference to obtaining a 4 inch alternator pulley, I went to the
local industrial supply outfit and bought an alloy v-belt pulley with a 1/2
inch centre hole and simply machined the boss offset to suit the spacing
required on the Vans 35 amp alternator. Cheap but effective. Maybe your
local hardware outlet will have them, otherwise try the engineering
supplyers.
> >
> > Martin in Oz
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>1. When the plane's engine was NOT running, the radio (transmit) worked
>
>2. When the engine WAS running the radio (transmit) did NOT work
Check the bus voltage. The voltage is much higher when the
alternator is running. Sometimes it is too high. The bus voltage should
never be more than 15.0 volts. If it is, this might be your problem. Run
the radio on a power supply and see if the problem is caused by bus voltage.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Sterling Polyurethane Paint Brush application |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Is this a proven method? I would not have even considered this process. I
am sure it is going to be very heavy paint job. Only way to get the surface
to flow more would be to use a thinner made for a warmer temp a good 10
degrees warmer. This will allow the paint to flow more due to the thinner
taking longer to evaporate out. It is pretty much guaranteed that you will
have to color sand it smooth. Sounds like a TON of work. Why cant you spray
paint it on?
At 12:47 PM 5/3/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Haan <bhaan@easystreet.com>
>
>
>I am in the process of painting my RV6A with Sterling crosslink
>Polyurethane Paint (Detco) using the brushing application method.
>
>The process we are using is:
>1. Alumiprep (Acid wash) .
>2. Alodine.
>3. Coat of green chromate primer.
>4. Sand out bush or roller marks .
>5. One Coat of 94U 1000P white Primer/ Filler.
>6. Sand out bush or roller marks .
>7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6if needed..
>8. Two coats of the Gloss Top Coat Color
>
>We have not been able to get the brush marks to flow out for the gloss top
>coats. We are rolling on the paint and tip brushing it to remove the
>bubbles left by the roller. We are using abut 15%. thinner..
>
>If you were successful, please.let us know about your process, etc.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
>
>RV6A almost
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 4
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| Subject: | Taildragger Wheel Landings |
05/05/2003 10:52:52 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
Listers,
I am in the middle of getting my taildragger endorsement and have
experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings. The three-pointers
are not a problem. I would appreciate any tips that have worked for
others.
Here's the situation:
I'm on short final at around 60 kts ('46 Luscombe) and turning around 1100
rpm. I've killed the drift, and am tracking true. As I get into ground
effect, I am beginning my flare and things start getting crazy. I am
having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my mains
touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for tri-gears.
Would I be better off landing at a slightly higher speed by flying it onto
the deck rather than slightly flaring? Second question- How do the RV's
compare to the Luscombe when it comes to handling on the ground? Several
people have raised a brow when I have told them that I was learning in a
Luscombe. What is it about a Luscombe that causes this response? I have
been able to experience a pretty stiff cross wind in the Luscombe without
too much difficulty, so my hopes are that the RV will be even more docile.
To the non-taildragger pilots: I have already witnessed an improvement in
my tricycle skills since I have started working on my taildragger
endorsement. I am much more aware of what is going on during landing.
Before, I would be content to fly into the flare and let things settle out
on their own...now I have learned not to become a passenger in the last
foot or so of landing. For lack of a better description, the taildragger
training has slowed down those final seconds of flight to a point that they
can be managed. It is like observing a landing in slow-motion from behind
the plane. (Or is this caused by licking those mushrooms?) No new skills
are required, only focusing on the basics that I should have been following
all along in the tricycle configuration. This is the most fun that I
have had in an airplane, and if you feel the need for a landing refresher,
this is a great way to go.
Don Alexander
RV-8 or 8A (Soon to decide)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Emp. Fairnig screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I am using stainless steel allen wrench type flat head screws and having
them machined down to 120 degree heads, they work great and look great.
They look so good that all external screws will be of this type. You should
see the fuel tanks!
At 09:57 AM 5/4/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
>My -9A drawings call for using flat head #6 screws for attaching the
>empannage fairing. The fiberglass is too thin to countersink that deep.
>What methods did you guys use, and would you do it that way again?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Gary
>
>
>---
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Kowalski" <salned@msn.com>
For Sale: Two Strong Parachutes. One seat and One Back. Used during 25 hours
of test flying.
New $1200.00 each. Now $600.00 each plus shipping and handling.
E-mail salned@msn.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Will look intot hat the next time I am out there and can get the owner to
start it up.
Had planned to put the old VOM on it but ran out of time.
Thanks,
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube
> Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 9:58 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Interesting Radio Problem ... Need Help
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>
> >
> >1. When the plane's engine was NOT running, the radio (transmit) worked
> >
> >2. When the engine WAS running the radio (transmit) did NOT work
>
> Check the bus voltage. The voltage is much higher when the
> alternator is running. Sometimes it is too high. The bus voltage should
> never be more than 15.0 volts. If it is, this might be your problem. Run
> the radio on a power supply and see if the problem is caused by
> bus voltage.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re : Alternator pulleys |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Maybe I am missing something here too.
If you SLOW DOWN the alternator RPM of the Van's 35 amp'er, you ***MIGHT***
get less output than you really need unless you have a BIG battery and a
minimal system.
If your system only needs say 10 amps then this probably not a problem. If
you need 25-30 and expect the 35 amp'er to deliver that at less than 2500
rpm, then I think you are in for a surprise.
Your mileage may vary ...
-OR-
What am **I** missing here????
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
> Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 3:30 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : Alternator pulleys
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi Martin,
>
> Jerry would like to know "why the 4" pulley"?.
>
> Are you convinced that slowing the alternator down will:
>
> Reduce horse power consumption?
> Reduce bearing failure?
> Reduce belt failure?
> Save fuel?
> Reduce brush wear?
> Reduce the risk of over voltage problems?
>
> With a 4" pulley does the alternator run too slow at idle to produce full
> regulated output?
>
> Enquiring minds and all that,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : Alternator pulleys
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Everyone keeps talking about getting a 4" pully. My question is why?
> > It cannot be because they turn to fast.
> >
> > Jerry
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > Martin Hone wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone"
> <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
> > >
> > > Hi Dick,
> > >
> > > with reference to obtaining a 4 inch alternator pulley, I went to the
> local industrial supply outfit and bought an alloy v-belt pulley
> with a 1/2
> inch centre hole and simply machined the boss offset to suit the spacing
> required on the Vans 35 amp alternator. Cheap but effective. Maybe your
> local hardware outlet will have them, otherwise try the engineering
> supplyers.
> > >
> > > Martin in Oz
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com wrote:
> Here's the situation:
> I'm on short final at around 60 kts ('46 Luscombe) and turning around 1100
> rpm. I've killed the drift, and am tracking true. As I get into ground
> effect, I am beginning my flare and things start getting crazy. I am
> having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my mains
> touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for tri-gears.
> Would I be better off landing at a slightly higher speed by flying it onto
> the deck rather than slightly flaring?
I find that different airplanes perform differently in this regard, and
I haven't flown a Luscombe... But... I find that in most of them to do a
wheel landing I do a slight flare, and then return the aircraft to
"level" as, or a split second after, the mains touch down. This works
in the Druine Turbi, Cessna L-19 and 140, and RV-6 (or at least it
worked *once* in an RV-6... Haven't tried it more than that... 8-).
> Second question- How do the RV's
> compare to the Luscombe when it comes to handling on the ground? Several
> people have raised a brow when I have told them that I was learning in a
> Luscombe. What is it about a Luscombe that causes this response?
The Luscombe has a reputation for being particularly squirrely on the
ground during the period between being solidly landed and slowed to
walking pace. Not having flown one, I can only guess that it's because
it's a light aircraft with a good long efficient wing, and high narrow
main gear. A gust can lift a wing, and you have less mechanical
advantage on the brakes to help stop a groundloop.
I suspect that as with many taildraggers, they're just fine until they
start to get away from you. What makes a "docile" taildragger docile is
how long it takes to go from "just fine" to "getting away from you".
That transition is supposedly quite rapid in a Luscombe.
-RB4
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Delta Hawk |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>
>No more "next year", no more "soon", and certainly no flying down the
>runway at 8 inches and calling it a day. The DeltaHawk engine has
>finally flown. Here is the official blurb.
Great news! Long awaited for sure. This is a very tempting engine
for an RV, especially at my altitude.
What list did you get this from. I'd probably join such a list
because am very interested in this sort of thing.
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Listers:
I can't remember the name of the company Andy had in Winter Park supplying
charts????? Need charts for a trip at a good price !!
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
69 hours !!
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow@fedex.com>
I'll pass on a tip for those wheelies that really worked for me (from my
instructor Bill Manning a number of years ago)...
I was going through similar difficulties - it ISN'T natural to "push" the stick
at a time like that. So what Bill does and suggested was very simple. Trim the
aircraft such that you have to maintain SLIGHT backpressure to hold the desired
flight path/approach speed. Then, when you are over the runway right at the
point of being ready to touch down, simply release some of the back pressure.
You will find this much smoother and more predictable than "pushing" the
aircraft down. Also (as I am sure you have already figured out) make sure you
are at the appropriate height over the runway. Too high and you may bounce.
Don't ask me how I know...
Obviously this will take a little while to get the appropriate feel. You don't
want too much trim (making it unnecessarily difficult to fly) and you don't
want to just let go a lot of backpressure (resulting in a harder landing and
resulting bounces or worse). Obviously do these with your instructor first.
Remember, trim for SLIGHT backpressure.
As you get more time and experience you will find that you get used to the
unusual attitude of a wheelie, and won't have to rely on the trim technique as
much. Still, it helped me a lot initially and so I hope it does you as well.
As to how this will translate into taildragger RV characteristics, others on
the list will have to help (I am an 8A guy). However, your comments about how
getting this endorsement have helped with tri gear are right on. I would in
fact add that having this has helped in all aspects of my flying - not just
pattern work. More than anything (compared to learning on 150's) I have learned
that a) this is this thing called a rudder back there, and b) how to use it.
Good luck!
Scott in MEM
RV-8A
cowling and baffles to go...
Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
> Listers,
> I am in the middle of getting my taildragger endorsement and have
> experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings. The three-pointers
> are not a problem. I would appreciate any tips that have worked for
> others.
>
> Here's the situation:
> I'm on short final at around 60 kts ('46 Luscombe) and turning around 1100
> rpm. I've killed the drift, and am tracking true. As I get into ground
> effect, I am beginning my flare and things start getting crazy. I am
> having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my mains
> touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for tri-gears.
> Would I be better off landing at a slightly higher speed by flying it onto
> the deck rather than slightly flaring? Second question- How do the RV's
> compare to the Luscombe when it comes to handling on the ground? Several
> people have raised a brow when I have told them that I was learning in a
> Luscombe. What is it about a Luscombe that causes this response? I have
> been able to experience a pretty stiff cross wind in the Luscombe without
> too much difficulty, so my hopes are that the RV will be even more docile.
>
> To the non-taildragger pilots: I have already witnessed an improvement in
> my tricycle skills since I have started working on my taildragger
> endorsement. I am much more aware of what is going on during landing.
> Before, I would be content to fly into the flare and let things settle out
> on their own...now I have learned not to become a passenger in the last
> foot or so of landing. For lack of a better description, the taildragger
> training has slowed down those final seconds of flight to a point that they
> can be managed. It is like observing a landing in slow-motion from behind
> the plane. (Or is this caused by licking those mushrooms?) No new skills
> are required, only focusing on the basics that I should have been following
> all along in the tricycle configuration. This is the most fun that I
> have had in an airplane, and if you feel the need for a landing refresher,
> this is a great way to go.
>
> Don Alexander
> RV-8 or 8A (Soon to decide)
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> I'm on short final at around 60 kts ('46 Luscombe) and turning around 1100
> rpm. I've killed the drift, and am tracking true. As I get into ground
> effect, I am beginning my flare and things start getting crazy. I am
> having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my mains
> touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for tri-gears.
> Would I be better off landing at a slightly higher speed by flying it onto
> the deck rather than slightly flaring?
IMHO, yes, especially until you develop a feel for it. Use whatever
techniques it takes to arrive at a mental understanding of what's going on
and the ability to control it to your desired result.
> Second question- How do the RV's
> compare to the Luscombe when it comes to handling on the ground? Several
> people have raised a brow when I have told them that I was learning in a
> Luscombe. What is it about a Luscombe that causes this response? I have
> been able to experience a pretty stiff cross wind in the Luscombe without
> too much difficulty, so my hopes are that the RV will be even more docile.
I've never flown a Luscombe, but I've heard they can be squirrely, something
about the wheels being too far back relative to the CG or something, I'm
sure others with direct experience will comment. My experience is that RV
taildraggers behave the same as other taildraggers I've flown (Citabria,
C-140, J-3), but are quicker. Definitely manageable, but a bit quicker to
get off track if you're not paying attention.
> To the non-taildragger pilots: I have already witnessed an improvement in
> my tricycle skills since I have started working on my taildragger
> endorsement. I am much more aware of what is going on during landing.
> Before, I would be content to fly into the flare and let things settle out
> on their own...now I have learned not to become a passenger in the last
> foot or so of landing. For lack of a better description, the taildragger
> training has slowed down those final seconds of flight to a point that
they
> can be managed. It is like observing a landing in slow-motion from behind
> the plane. (Or is this caused by licking those mushrooms?) No new skills
> are required, only focusing on the basics that I should have been
following
> all along in the tricycle configuration. This is the most fun that I
> have had in an airplane, and if you feel the need for a landing refresher,
> this is a great way to go.
Couldn't agree more, and I know exactly what you're talking, but some of the
nose-dragger types don't seem to appreciate what you're describing. (no,
this isn't a flame to the "A" model drivers so the 'ol "where does the third
wheel belong" threads).
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 306 hrs.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
If you can find a copy of "The Compleat Taildragger Pilot" by H. S.
Plourde, you will find that this matter is discussed extensively.
As I recall ...
You will not push too hard because as you push more, the tail comes up more
and the angle of attack decreases. You thus get more drag and less lift ...
more of a tendency to make the wheels stick. AS you push harder the plane
slows more and resists more.. Translation ... the harder you push, the
harder it gets to push.
It is as you say counter to what we think we should be doing but the physics
keeps us from tipping over and chewing up the prop.
**DISCLAIMER** ... Don't try this without getting your own verification
(in other words, don't trust my memory :-) )
I have done this with the Champ (back when I was reading the book) but have
not tried it on the RV6 (haven't felt the desire or the need).
Also, more experienced *real* taildragger pilots may chime in with
corrections.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
> Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 11:12 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Taildragger Wheel Landings
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> Listers,
> I am in the middle of getting my taildragger endorsement and have
> experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings. The three-pointers
> are not a problem. I would appreciate any tips that have worked for
> others.
>
> Here's the situation:
> I'm on short final at around 60 kts ('46 Luscombe) and turning around 1100
> rpm. I've killed the drift, and am tracking true. As I get into ground
> effect, I am beginning my flare and things start getting crazy. I am
> having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my mains
> touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for tri-gears.
> Would I be better off landing at a slightly higher speed by flying it onto
> the deck rather than slightly flaring? Second question- How do the RV's
> compare to the Luscombe when it comes to handling on the ground? Several
> people have raised a brow when I have told them that I was learning in a
> Luscombe. What is it about a Luscombe that causes this response? I have
> been able to experience a pretty stiff cross wind in the Luscombe without
> too much difficulty, so my hopes are that the RV will be even more docile.
>
> To the non-taildragger pilots: I have already witnessed an improvement in
> my tricycle skills since I have started working on my taildragger
> endorsement. I am much more aware of what is going on during landing.
> Before, I would be content to fly into the flare and let things settle out
> on their own...now I have learned not to become a passenger in the last
> foot or so of landing. For lack of a better description, the taildragger
> training has slowed down those final seconds of flight to a point
> that they
> can be managed. It is like observing a landing in slow-motion from behind
> the plane. (Or is this caused by licking those mushrooms?) No new skills
> are required, only focusing on the basics that I should have been
> following
> all along in the tricycle configuration. This is the most fun that I
> have had in an airplane, and if you feel the need for a landing refresher,
> this is a great way to go.
>
> Don Alexander
> RV-8 or 8A (Soon to decide)
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Turbocharged RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Smith" <phil@analysis-inc.com>
Has anyone installed a turbocharged 360 in an RV yet?
Any opinions on how hard it would be to do?
Thanks,
Phil Smith
Message 16
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| Subject: | Manifold Pressure Connection |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
My O-320 came with primer lines connected to three cylinders, terminated
to a 1/8" tee where the primer feed would normally connect. Initially I
am going to try not using a primer to see if it is necessary on this
engine, as there has been much discussion about this on the list (&
rather not rehash- it's all archived).
Here's the question- would this tee not make a suitable connection for
the manifold pressure sensor for my EIS engine monitor? (ore even a
gauge?) The holes in the primer fittings are small, but with three
connected, it may be sufficient, possibly even better as the actual
pressure going to the sensor would be the average of three cylinders
(less pulsation than one) and even dampened somewhat by the small
holes. I am using a fixed pitch prop.
Also, is it really necessary to make this a braided stainless line or
would any decent underhood type vacuum hose be sufficient? There may be
an advantage to the small holes in the primer fittings if the hose were
to leak- the tiny amount of air sucked through the orifice would
possibly lean that cylinder minutely....
Thanks from The PossumWorks
Mark - do not archive -
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Turbocharged RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I belive it adds considerable weight, other than that I dont know.
At 09:56 AM 5/5/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Smith" <phil@analysis-inc.com>
>
>Has anyone installed a turbocharged 360 in an RV yet?
>Any opinions on how hard it would be to do?
>Thanks,
>Phil Smith
>
>
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
eCharts
http://www.echarts.cc
Box 270
Tabernash, CO 80478
Lenleg@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
>Listers:
>
>I can't remember the name of the company Andy had in Winter Park supplying
>charts????? Need charts for a trip at a good price !!
>
>Len Leggette RV-8A
>N901LL
>Greensboro, N.C.
>69 hours !!
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
If you can fly the Luscombe, you can fly the RV. The Luscombe is deceving on
the approach due to the 7 degree angle on the cowl hinges and the cross
brace in the windows. The RV is a big pussy cat on the ground. The Luscombe
8A is not as forgiving as the RV. I only have a few good landings in a
Luscombe so am not an expert. When you mess up in an RV, add power and go
around to try it again. You do not have the option in the 65 HP Luscombe.
To practice for wheel landings, I once had an instructer recommend a long
runway (SBD, the old Norton Air Force Base). Land on the runway then add
just enough power to fly with the tail up. Lift the aircraf off the ground
then let it back down. On a 10,000 foot runway, you can do this safely 4 or
5 times. It helps develop the sight pictureand feel of what it looks like
to make a wheel landing.
I do not do a lot of wheel landings. Sometimes they are perfect and
sometime they get bouncy. Yesterday, the first one was great but the second
one bounced so I 3 pointed it on.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,273 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
Subject: RV-List: Taildragger Wheel Landings
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
Listers,
I am in the middle of getting my taildragger endorsement and have
experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings. The three-pointers
are not a problem. I would appreciate any tips that have worked for
others.
Here's the situation:
I'm on short final at around 60 kts ('46 Luscombe) and turning around 1100
rpm. I've killed the drift, and am tracking true. As I get into ground
effect, I am beginning my flare and things start getting crazy. I am
having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my mains
touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for tri-gears.
Would I be better off landing at a slightly higher speed by flying it onto
the deck rather than slightly flaring? Second question- How do the RV's
compare to the Luscombe when it comes to handling on the ground? Several
people have raised a brow when I have told them that I was learning in a
Luscombe. What is it about a Luscombe that causes this response? I have
been able to experience a pretty stiff cross wind in the Luscombe without
too much difficulty, so my hopes are that the RV will be even more docile.
To the non-taildragger pilots: I have already witnessed an improvement in
my tricycle skills since I have started working on my taildragger
endorsement. I am much more aware of what is going on during landing.
Before, I would be content to fly into the flare and let things settle out
on their own...now I have learned not to become a passenger in the last
foot or so of landing. For lack of a better description, the taildragger
training has slowed down those final seconds of flight to a point that they
can be managed. It is like observing a landing in slow-motion from behind
the plane. (Or is this caused by licking those mushrooms?) No new skills
are required, only focusing on the basics that I should have been following
all along in the tricycle configuration. This is the most fun that I
have had in an airplane, and if you feel the need for a landing refresher,
this is a great way to go.
Don Alexander
RV-8 or 8A (Soon to decide)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>
>I am in the middle of getting my taildragger endorsement and have
>experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings. I am
>having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my mains
>touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for tri-gears.
Yes, I had this exact same problem. A solution, trim on final so that you
have to hold slight back pressure to maintain glidepath, just as the wheels
touch release back pressure. Also, practice, practice and practice. Land
into a good wind, no wind wheel landings are hard. Also carry some power
at touch down. I do wheel landings about 10 kts faster than 3 pointers.
>Second question- How do the RV's
>compare to the Luscombe when it comes to handling on the ground? Several
>people have raised a brow when I have told them that I was learning in a
>Luscombe. What is it about a Luscombe that causes this response? I have
>been able to experience a pretty stiff cross wind in the Luscombe without
>too much difficulty, so my hopes are that the RV will be even more docile.
I also received some tailwheel training in a Luscombe. I feel that it is
more difficult to land and ground handle than the RV. This is good, if you
can handle the Luscombe, then you will have no problem with the RV. My
only guess about RVers response to a Luscombe, is that they are fairly slow
as compared to an RV, but they sure are fun to fly!
I too must agree that some of the most fun I have had flying was learning
how to do wheel and 3 point landings in a tailwheel. The flying club that
I belonged to required a 3 point and wheel landing on their tailwheel
checkout before I could rent the airplane. No matter how much I argued,
they were resolute, no wheel landing no checkout!
Last month I landed at Dodge City KS and Amarillo TX, both airports had 30
+ Kt winds, gusting to 40 kts, direction was 20 degrees off the nose. No
problems with the landings. At Amarillo no tie downs during refueling, and
I thought the wind was going to flip the RV, it didn't even come close, but
it sure does get you worried.
Nose wheel Vs tailwheel. If I want to fly nose wheel there are a bunch of
them for rent. But, very few tailwheels for rent. Recommendation, build
what YOU want, if that is a tailwheel, you can learn the necessary skills
to be safe!
Bob
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
It's http://www.eCharts.cc
Thanks,
Andy
800 780-4115
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Charts
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> Listers:
>
> I can't remember the name of the company Andy had in Winter Park supplying
> charts????? Need charts for a trip at a good price !!
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 69 hours !!
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Snip
> all along in the tricycle configuration. This is the most fun that I
> have had in an airplane, and if you feel the need for a landing refresher,
> this is a great way to go.
>
> Don Alexander
> RV-8 or 8A (Soon to decide)
>
It looks to me that you have obviously already decided! ;-)
I could go on for pages about all kinds of things that might be causing your
difficulty, but from what you describe, it sounds like a mental block that
is frustrating you. Here is a trick that I would try if I were your
instructor. #1 you should be perfectly trimmed hands-off on final at your
desired speed. #2 At about 50 ft, put in what I will call a "handful" of
nosedown trim. #3 When the mains touch, you don't have to push forward
(which I agree is a bad thing) only "ease off the back pressure. This
procedure also takes the slack out of you controls so you have more precise
control.
As for your speed, you can make a wheel landing at nearly any speed that the
prop clears the pavement. A little extra speed might help and a little more
power might too. Landing with power on is bad form, but you can cheat
while learning and then when you figure it out, get rid of the power.
The biggest bugaboo in Wheel Landings is not getting the mains on, it is
getting the tail down. That is where most people get bit. So don't exhale,
say "whew" and quit flying when you get the mains on, stay with it to the
end!
Tailwinds,
Doug
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re : Alternator pulleys |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Alternators DO NOT depend on speed or rpm to generate the output the
regulator calls for -- that is once you are turning it more than a hundred
rpm. The standard size pulley on my Geo unit puts out all the output
needed at idle rpm on the Lycoming.
They don't work like a generator. The regulator supplies the field current
required to the alternator for it to provide the output demand. If the
alternator is turning slower, the regulator will call for more field
current which will increase the torque requirement, and now that I think
of it this added field current will cause more heat in the regulator and
field windings. In theory, the faster you turn an alternator, the cooler
it should run. Limited to the max mechanical speed of course. Hmmm,
interesting how you come up with this stuff as you type. P-)
Any of you experienced auto electric guys want to shoot holes in this
please do. I'm just an engineer theorizing about it.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
At 11:34 2003-05-05 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
>Maybe I am missing something here too.
>
>If you SLOW DOWN the alternator RPM of the Van's 35 amp'er, you ***MIGHT***
>get less output than you really need unless you have a BIG battery and a
>minimal system.
>
>If your system only needs say 10 amps then this probably not a problem. If
>you need 25-30 and expect the 35 amp'er to deliver that at less than 2500
>rpm, then I think you are in for a surprise.
>
>Your mileage may vary ...
>
>-OR-
>
>
>What am **I** missing here????
>
>James
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
> > Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 3:30 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : Alternator pulleys
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> >
> > Hi Martin,
> >
> > Jerry would like to know "why the 4" pulley"?.
> >
> > Are you convinced that slowing the alternator down will:
> >
> > Reduce horse power consumption?
> > Reduce bearing failure?
> > Reduce belt failure?
> > Save fuel?
> > Reduce brush wear?
> > Reduce the risk of over voltage problems?
> >
> > With a 4" pulley does the alternator run too slow at idle to produce full
> > regulated output?
> >
> > Enquiring minds and all that,
> >
> > Jim in Kelowna
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : Alternator pulleys
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Everyone keeps talking about getting a 4" pully. My question is why?
> > > It cannot be because they turn to fast.
> > >
> > > Jerry
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> > > Martin Hone wrote:
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone"
> > <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
> > > >
> > > > Hi Dick,
> > > >
> > > > with reference to obtaining a 4 inch alternator pulley, I went to the
> > local industrial supply outfit and bought an alloy v-belt pulley
> > with a 1/2
> > inch centre hole and simply machined the boss offset to suit the spacing
> > required on the Vans 35 amp alternator. Cheap but effective. Maybe your
> > local hardware outlet will have them, otherwise try the engineering
> > supplyers.
> > > >
> > > > Martin in Oz
Message 24
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| Subject: | amp meter reads radio tran |
--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
After working hours and finding no shots when pushing ptt that made the amp
meter peg =E2=80=94 reasoned amp meter was reading the radio transmission field.
Thetas all I know about it, can't give details.
Jerry Wilken
Albany Oregon
N699WP
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Turbocharged RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner@wans.net>
Dear Phil,
There was one guy at Las Cruces last year that had a turbocharged engine in
his RV-6 (I don't recall if it was a 320 or 360). He also had 6 or even 7
Fueltanks built into it. His complex Engine- & Fuel management system was
very much "Experimental".
I don't have this builders name, but if you do a search in the archives
around October 2002, I am sure you will find some more info to your
question.
Good Luck,
Konrad
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Smith" <phil@analysis-inc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Turbocharged RV-6
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Smith" <phil@analysis-inc.com>
>
> Has anyone installed a turbocharged 360 in an RV yet?
> Any opinions on how hard it would be to do?
> Thanks,
> Phil Smith
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>
--snip--
>
> No matter how much I argued, they were resolute, no wheel landing no
> checkout!
I'm in favour of that. I'm a check pilot for my RAA chapter, on a tailwheel
airplane (Druine Turbi). I insist that a pilot I'm checking out demonstrate
decent wheel landings.
Don Alexander:
One tip I've found that sometimes helps is, when practising touch-and-goes, to
not think of it as a landing but as flying down and running your wheels on the
ground and then flying away again (like the old barnstormers used to do along
the roofs of the hangars). Thinking of it that way helps you keep flying the
airplane throughout the manoeuvre.
Another thing that helps (though some might consider it a bad habit) is to have
a little bit of power on for the touch down--just above idle. It helps keep
the tail up. I usually do a power-off approach, but for a wheel landing I
crack the throttle shortly before going into ground effect.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hassel" <bob@hassel-usa.com>
I received the original message off a support list for Velocity aircraft.
It was just an info message as the list is mostly (like this one) directed
towards building a specific aircraft.
There is a news blurb about it on today's areo net news at:
http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?Full=1
and of course teh Delta Hawk web site:
http://www.deltahawkengines.com/index.htm
Bob
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Subject: Re: RV-List: FW: Delta Hawk
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
>
>No more "next year", no more "soon", and certainly no flying down the
>runway at 8 inches and calling it a day. The DeltaHawk engine has
>finally flown. Here is the official blurb.
Great news! Long awaited for sure. This is a very tempting engine
for an RV, especially at my altitude.
What list did you get this from. I'd probably join such a list
because am very interested in this sort of thing.
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Folks,
I hate to disagree with some very learned comments, but, changing any
component or part on an engine to a different part if that part is not
listed in the manufacturer's parts manual or type certificate for that
engine model and sub-model makes it un-certified. It doesn't matter if its a
mag or a crankshaft, although the mag is much easier to re-replace back to
certified status.
An approprately rated mechanic may supervise work done by a non-rated
person, but they must supervise, and be available for supervising while the
work is being done.
Being in the next state or county may not qualify depending on your FSDO.
Also, the appropriately rated mechanic who signs the maintenance record is
returning the aircraft component back to service by assuring that the work
done is of airworthy status.
As a supervising mechanic there are not too many un-certified folks who I
would trust to inspect, measure, reassemble and torque a case to an
airworthy status without my direct supervison and assistance.
And I would expect that most FSDOs would agree with me. So that being said,
if you build an engine, get, and pay someone who is certified, and knows
what they are doing to supervise your progress.
W
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
This last suggestion is closest to the mark: Carry power all the way to
touchdown.
RATIONALE: You are, in fact, flying the airplane onto the ground. You
OUGHT to do so under FULL control - you in control of the airplane, not you
at the control of mother nature, cross-winds, turbulence, etc.
To "fly" the airplane onto the ground, you do so at a fairly constant power
setting at a constant airspeed (maybe 10 or 15 knots above stall speed.
- You will be in near level flight attitude - NOT nose up close to the
stall.
- As I gently touch down I start SLOWLY dragging off the power -
letting the plane SLOWLY decrease in speed and letting the tail SLOWLY come
down - while keeping nose going straight down runway.
Wheel landings, to me, are most useful for landing in stronger crosswinds -
you are going to have one wing low enough, with opposite rudder, to stay
right on centerline, nose pointed down centerline, with bank angle varying
slightly for the gusts as you come down at final approach speed and put in
on without hardly slowing at all below final speed - just be in a fairly
level flt attitude.
- There is no "forcing it on", "pushing forward on the stick" - just
fly it down gently to gnd and start dragging off power slowly AFTER one
wheel is on gnd, keeping good control of nose direction as you slow and the
other wheel comes down, and as you roll out and tail comes down.
Other good time to use wheel landings, instead of near full stall, is for
gusty winds - it's no fun being slowed down to about 5 knots above "full
stall" speed and attitude, and then have the gust DIE and you lose 5 to 8
knots in an instant and drop in from 3 or more feet.
- Or, be about to touch AT STALL SPEED, and get an 8 knot gust
(instantaneous increase in speed) and, at that full stall/max lift AOA, you
are instantly back in the air, at idle, about 5 to 8' higher than you want
to be.'
- Only thing is catch it with power and let is sink in while holding the
pitch attitude (I feel comfortable doing that), or, full power and go around
and try again - only do a wheel landing this time because now you know why
you don't want to do any more full stall landings in gusty conditions.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Taildragger Wheel Landings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
> >
> --snip--
> >
> > No matter how much I argued, they were resolute, no wheel landing no
> > checkout!
>
> I'm in favour of that. I'm a check pilot for my RAA chapter, on a
tailwheel
> airplane (Druine Turbi). I insist that a pilot I'm checking out
demonstrate
> decent wheel landings.
>
> Don Alexander:
>
> One tip I've found that sometimes helps is, when practising
touch-and-goes, to
> not think of it as a landing but as flying down and running your wheels on
the
> ground and then flying away again (like the old barnstormers used to do
along
> the roofs of the hangars). Thinking of it that way helps you keep flying
the
> airplane throughout the manoeuvre.
>
> Another thing that helps (though some might consider it a bad habit) is to
have
> a little bit of power on for the touch down--just above idle. It helps
keep
> the tail up. I usually do a power-off approach, but for a wheel landing I
> crack the throttle shortly before going into ground effect.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
> -6 wings
>
>
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: JCTV <jctv@yahoo.com>
I need a little help from those of you have already
build an RV-6, 7 or 8.
I am currently working on the left elevator and have
followed the plans until now, but now I am stuck.
I riveted everything together up to the small spar for
the trim tab, (part #E-606), which calls for 4 pop
rivets in the end that are not accessible to squeeze.
The problem is the pop rivets called for in the plans
are CS4-4 which are 1/8". I drilled and dimpled all
the holes 3/32",(as per the plans prior to this
point).
Now that everything is riveted together I can't go
back and redimple to the larger size so I need some
advice.
Do I just use smaller pop rivets or do I drill out the
holes and have 4 rivet heads sticking up?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
RV-7A
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | pic on RV8A paint job |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
Several have asked that my airplane be posted on a site for all to see.
Check out the
"RV of the week" at Doug Reeves Vans airforce world wide wing website.
do not archive
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
Louisiana
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Len,
I found this source at Oshkosh 2 years ago and prices are same: "25% off
list".
www.flyairways.com
They have VFR (Sectionals) and IFR products.
I have the FAA price list from last Oct 02 and Sectional is $8.
www.flyairways today shows list price $8 and their price $6.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Charts
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> Listers:
>
> I can't remember the name of the company Andy had in Winter Park supplying
> charts????? Need charts for a trip at a good price !!
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 69 hours !!
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Hi-Res 3 View of RV-6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Does anybody have a high resolution 3 view drawing of an RV-6A? I'm
getting ready to start thinking about the paint scheme and would like to
start laying out the paint patterns. An AutoCAD drawing would be nice,
but I'll settle for any drawing that I could use in MS Paint or similar
application.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV Reserved
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Len, & other listers,
I just ordered a new Sectional for myself from www.flyairways.com and
noticed in "checking out" that the web based system was charging $5
shipping.
- I called the boss at 1-800-247-8294 and he said that was an error on
the web page, which he will eventually have fixed.
- The real shipping for a single map is via U.S. Postal Svc for $.80 to
$1.20 - whatever 1st class is for that weight.
Didn't want to kill his business by having everyone "choke" on $5 shipping
error on the web page.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Charts
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> Listers:
>
> I can't remember the name of the company Andy had in Winter Park supplying
> charts????? Need charts for a trip at a good price !!
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 69 hours !!
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Protecting the Canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Landmann <douglandmann@wi.rr.com>
I have an RV-6A slider project that I acquired from another builder. Over
the course of time the protective plastic on the canopy has been torn,
patched, taped, etc. to the point that it became necessary to remove it and
remove all the tape residue. I have now completed the canopy installation
and would again like to protect the plastic from exposure in my workshop to
dust and dirt and other nasty things. What material can I use to protect
the canopy. I have considered using plastic kitchen wrap since it clings
so nicely to the plastic and would not have to be taped in place. Does
anyone know if this material releases any harmful vapors or will bond in
any way to the canopy? Is there another material available that will serve
the protective function?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Doug Landmann
RV-6A on the gear
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pop Rivet Help! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Vans sell's some pop rivets that will work. The head dia is the same as the
type rivet you used. The body is .015 inches bigger dia. If I were you I
would order 100 of these rivets to use in places where a bucking bar will
not fit. 100 sounds like a lot..........its not.
At 11:11 AM 5/5/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: JCTV <jctv@yahoo.com>
>
>I need a little help from those of you have already
>build an RV-6, 7 or 8.
>
>I am currently working on the left elevator and have
>followed the plans until now, but now I am stuck.
>
>I riveted everything together up to the small spar for
>the trim tab, (part #E-606), which calls for 4 pop
>rivets in the end that are not accessible to squeeze.
>The problem is the pop rivets called for in the plans
>are CS4-4 which are 1/8". I drilled and dimpled all
>the holes 3/32",(as per the plans prior to this
>point).
>
>Now that everything is riveted together I can't go
>back and redimple to the larger size so I need some
>advice.
>
>Do I just use smaller pop rivets or do I drill out the
>holes and have 4 rivet heads sticking up?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Jeff
>RV-7A
>
>
>__________________________________
>http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: certification |
22, 2002) at 05/05/2003 03:12:05 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
very well put. I as an A&P and chief of maintenance would not sign off
anyones work unless I was directly involved, Also on that note. Do you want
to trust a non rated mechanic to work on the engine that you fly with? I'm
not saying he or she can't do the work, what I am talking about is
experience and product knowledge. In this industry it is a priceless
commodity that I think we take for granted. If you want proof, just go ask
someone to give their opinion on a plane that someone built. Then ask them
the same question if the aircraft came from Boeing.
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Tx.
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@bellsouth.net>
Begin forwarded message:
> Resent-From: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
> From: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
> Date: Mon May 5, 2003 12:40:29 PM US/Central
> Resent-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Taildragger Wheel Landings
>
>
> On Monday, May 5, 2003, at 10:12 AM, Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
> wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>> I am in the middle of getting my taildragger endorsement and have
>> experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings. The
>> three-pointers
>> are not a problem. I would appreciate any tips that have worked for
>
> I can tell you what worked for me...
>
> I agree with what others have said. Scott is right about trimming a
> little nose down--this makes the forward pressure "seem" more natural.
>
> The suggestion of using a long runway is my favorite. I think the
> difficulty of timing the control input comes because things are
> changing so rapidly in the flare and the moment of opportunity comes
> and goes before you realize it. If you stabilize the airplane in slow
> flight with the wheels 6-12" off the runway and just fly a while, you
> can drag the process out (always making sure you have _plenty_ of
> runway left!). If you do this close enough to the runway, eventually
> you'll get a little "too" close and roll a wheel onto the pavement.
> Just a a touch of forward stick and ease the power off and you've got
> it. After doing this a few times the mystery evaporates. After you
> get to know the airplane well, you'll be able to make a steep power
> off approach and wheel it on without power, but the timing has to
> become instinctive.
>
> I also like the suggestion from Wolfgang Langeweische's book "Stick
> and Rudder." He suggests landing on grass and letting go of the stick
> as soon as the wheels touch. The drag of the grass should create a
> nose down pitching moment and effectively makes the forward stick push
> for you. Although I've never been brave enough to actually let go of
> the stick, the principle is sound
>
>
>> \ As I get into ground
>> effect, I am beginning my flare and things start getting crazy. I am
>> having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my
>> mains
>> touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for
>> tri-gears.
>> Would I be better off landing at a slightly higher speed by flying it
>> onto
>> the deck rather than slightly flaring? Second question- How do the
>> RV's
>> compare to the Luscombe when it comes to handling on the ground?
>
> Easier IMHO. Much more effective controls and generally better
> tracking.
>> Several
>> people have raised a brow when I have told them that I was learning
>> in a
>> Luscombe. What is it about a Luscombe that causes this response?
>
> I have almost no time in Luscombes, so the usual grain of salt
> applies. I have heard that the gear on earlier models are somewhat
> more fragile than some other airplanes and don't tolerate side loads
> well. The few times I have landed a Luscombe I felt like the rudder
> didn't have the same authority as a cessna 140 or an RV.
>> I have
>> been able to experience a pretty stiff cross wind in the Luscombe
>> without
>> too much difficulty, so my hopes are that the RV will be even more
>> docile.
>>
>> To the non-taildragger pilots: I have already witnessed an
>> improvement in
>> my tricycle skills since I have started working on my taildragger
>> endorsement. I am much more aware of what is going on during landing.
>> Before, I would be content to fly into the flare and let things
>> settle out
>> on their own...now I have learned not to become a passenger in the
>> last
>> foot or so of landing. For lack of a better description, the
>> taildragger
>> training has slowed down those final seconds of flight to a point
>> that they
>> can be managed.
>
> Absolutely right. People always seem skeptical of this until they
> actually do it.;-)
>
> HTH
>
> JFF
>>
>>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Huffaker <bifft@xmission.com>
On Mon, 5 May 2003 Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> Listers,
> I am in the middle of getting my taildragger endorsement and have
> experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings. The three-pointers
> are not a problem. I would appreciate any tips that have worked for
> others.
>
> Here's the situation:
> I'm on short final at around 60 kts ('46 Luscombe) and turning around 1100
> rpm. I've killed the drift, and am tracking true. As I get into ground
> effect, I am beginning my flare and things start getting crazy. I am
> having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my mains
> touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for tri-gears.
> Would I be better off landing at a slightly higher speed by flying it onto
> the deck rather than slightly flaring? Second question- How do the RV's
Don't know if it's correct or anything, but what works best for me when
wheel landing the starduster is to "flare with power". Keep the pitch
angle constant, and just before touching down add a bit of power (just a
little) to stop the rate of descent. This way I don't have to pull back
to flare, then push forward to stick it, but just hold, power, push.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft@xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Installing armrests.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
Message 40
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I like eCharts (http://www.echarts.cc/) because you can subscribe and get
new sectionals automatically...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Charts
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> Listers:
>
> I can't remember the name of the company Andy had in Winter Park supplying
> charts????? Need charts for a trip at a good price !!
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 69 hours !!
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Hello All...
I've been off list due to my Iraqi Freedom deployment and am back online!!!
What did I miss??? =) Anyway, for those with my old email address, note
the change (for the better!!!).
Now that my days of deploying to desert locations and worrying about Iraq
are over...I have a few desert flightsuits to part with for those who are
interested. I have 3 of them......first to respond gets it...one per person
please.....just asking for $15 to help with the shipping and I'll send them
out to you tomorrow. The details are below.
#1: 40 Regular (fits my 5'9" frame...good from 140-185lbs folks), this
particular one I used for two months...still in good shape....it has about 9
missions over Iraq!!
#2: 40 Regular...same as above only never used.
#3: 44 Short (mis-order)...should fit about 5"4" to 5'8"...out to
240lbs I would guess.
All are Desert Tan with matching tan velcro....my rank is still attached so
feel free to remove it. Thanks...
Regards,
Kurt Klewin, OKC, OK
RV6A....Barts Engine coming next week!!!!!!!!!!1
Do Not Archive
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Pop Rivet Help! |
22, 2002) at 05/05/2003 03:33:57 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
take your deburr tool and deburr untill the head of the rivet will be flush
with the metal. If the hole is to small for the stem to go throught drill
it to a #30 and then squeeze the rivet.
Glenn Williams
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Protecting the Canopy |
22, 2002) at 05/05/2003 03:36:07 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
saran wrap will work. Or you can buy the plastic shrink wrap from a
shipping wholesaler such as U-haul. Or just use a sheet or blanket.
Glenn Williams
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Protecting the Canopy |
MIME_EXCESSIVE_QP,
MIME_LONG_LINE_QP@matronics.com, SPAM_PHRASE_01_02@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
Doug,
I used a paintable/sprayable product called "Spraylat" that is a
sprayable latex. You thin it with water and spay on the canopy. When you
want it off, you can peel it provided you didn't spray it too thin. It's
working great for me; however is won't protect the canopy from dropping
a tool on it...
You can get it at spruce -
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/spraylat.php
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
N900TW - Reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Landmann [mailto:douglandmann@wi.rr.com]
Subject: RV-List: Protecting the Canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Landmann <douglandmann@wi.rr.com>
I have an RV-6A slider project that I acquired from another builder.
Over
the course of time the protective plastic on the canopy has been torn,
patched, taped, etc. to the point that it became necessary to remove it
and
remove all the tape residue. I have now completed the canopy
installation
and would again like to protect the plastic from exposure in my workshop
to
dust and dirt and other nasty things. What material can I use to
protect
the canopy. I have considered using plastic kitchen wrap since it
clings
so nicely to the plastic and would not have to be taped in place. Does
anyone know if this material releases any harmful vapors or will bond in
any way to the canopy? Is there another material available that will
serve
the protective function?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Doug Landmann
RV-6A on the gear
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Re: Hi-Res 3 View of RV-6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Fred,
There is a nice 8 X 11" three view in the Vans mannual (no jaggies) that
can be scanned.
On the back side of the three view is also a nice three dimentional drawing
for paint planning.
the drawing can be found at the end of section 13.
Have fun,
Jim do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: RV-List: Hi-Res 3 View of RV-6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC"
<Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>
> Does anybody have a high resolution 3 view drawing of an RV-6A? I'm
> getting ready to start thinking about the paint scheme and would like to
> start laying out the paint patterns. An AutoCAD drawing would be nice,
> but I'll settle for any drawing that I could use in MS Paint or similar
> application.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV Reserved
>
>
Message 46
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://www.mypilotstore.com
$7.25 for a VFR sectional and FREE shipping.
I'm sure there are better deals out there, but I've been using
MyPilotStore's chart subscription service for years and am happy with it.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Charts
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Len, & other listers,
>
> I just ordered a new Sectional for myself from www.flyairways.com and
> noticed in "checking out" that the web based system was charging $5
> shipping.
> - I called the boss at 1-800-247-8294 and he said that was an error
on
> the web page, which he will eventually have fixed.
> - The real shipping for a single map is via U.S. Postal Svc for $.80
to
> $1.20 - whatever 1st class is for that weight.
>
> Didn't want to kill his business by having everyone "choke" on $5 shipping
> error on the web page.
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Charts
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
> >
> > Listers:
> >
> > I can't remember the name of the company Andy had in Winter Park
supplying
> > charts????? Need charts for a trip at a good price !!
> >
> > Len Leggette RV-8A
> > N901LL
> > Greensboro, N.C.
> > 69 hours !!
> >
> >
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Protecting the Canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Doug,
The saran wrap will work but it is thin and provides very little protection.
Try using the Saran wrap or the comercial shipping wrap that seems to be a
heavier duty version of Saran wrap trimmed to the size of the plexiglass
canopy itself . Then over that use some heavy 4 or 6 MIL? construction
poly. Cut it a bit larger than the plexiglass and tape it to the frame with
black electrition's vinyl tape. The thicker poly will need to be trimmed and
taped a quite a bit to conform without getting too bulky.
That might get the job done
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Landmann" <douglandmann@wi.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Protecting the Canopy
> --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Landmann <douglandmann@wi.rr.com>
>
> I have an RV-6A slider project that I acquired from another builder. Over
> the course of time the protective plastic on the canopy has been torn,
> patched, taped, etc. to the point that it became necessary to remove it
and
> remove all the tape residue. I have now completed the canopy installation
> and would again like to protect the plastic from exposure in my workshop
to
> dust and dirt and other nasty things. What material can I use to protect
> the canopy. I have considered using plastic kitchen wrap since it clings
> so nicely to the plastic and would not have to be taped in place. Does
> anyone know if this material releases any harmful vapors or will bond in
> any way to the canopy? Is there another material available that will
serve
> the protective function?
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> Doug Landmann
> RV-6A on the gear
>
>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Protecting the Canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
If you're gonna spray it, make sure you put on a couple of coats. The
thicker it is, the easier it is to remove.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Todd Wenzel
SPAM_PHRASE_01_02@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Protecting the Canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wenzel"
<TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
Doug,
I used a paintable/sprayable product called "Spraylat" that is a
sprayable latex. You thin it with water and spay on the canopy. When you
want it off, you can peel it provided you didn't spray it too thin. It's
working great for me; however is won't protect the canopy from dropping
a tool on it...
You can get it at spruce -
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/spraylat.php
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
N900TW - Reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Landmann [mailto:douglandmann@wi.rr.com]
Subject: RV-List: Protecting the Canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Landmann <douglandmann@wi.rr.com>
I have an RV-6A slider project that I acquired from another builder.
Over
the course of time the protective plastic on the canopy has been torn,
patched, taped, etc. to the point that it became necessary to remove it
and
remove all the tape residue. I have now completed the canopy
installation
and would again like to protect the plastic from exposure in my workshop
to
dust and dirt and other nasty things. What material can I use to
protect
the canopy. I have considered using plastic kitchen wrap since it
clings
so nicely to the plastic and would not have to be taped in place. Does
anyone know if this material releases any harmful vapors or will bond in
any way to the canopy? Is there another material available that will
serve
the protective function?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Doug Landmann
RV-6A on the gear
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Re: Low and Slow |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Do Not Archive...
Boyd,
The regs stated 100 foot min agl altitude.
So, I was at 100 feet.
That is my story and I am sticking to it. :-)
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Low and Slow
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
>
> Tom--100 ft??
>
> Bullsh** I have a photo you sent of the automatic picture taking thingy
> on the remote radar sender at Nellis AFB range and your F-4 wingtip, in
> a 80-90 deg angle of bank, is maybe 8 ft off the ground, if that.
> Thanks for protecting the taxpayer
> resources--hahahahahahahahahahahah!!!! The XO of our squadron at NAS
> Key West (Boca Chica) once came back with mangrove leaves in parts of
> the undercarriage of his F-4. He wrote up a squawk that his altimeter
> crapped. The F-4 is truly a blessed aircraft but is the final proof
> that if you put two J-79s on a rock with moveable control surfaces, you
> can make it fly.
>
> Boyd.
> Learning how to cropdust in SW FL.
>
> Tom Gummo wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
> >
> > do not archive - please
> >
> > MY OPINION PLEASE DELETE NOW IF NOT INTERESTED
> >
> > Low and Slow - Get a helicopter. :-(
> > Low and Fast is the way to go.
> > Get a RV with a big engine or a Harmon Rocket II. :-)
> > I just love going out into the desert (staying 500 feet away from
people,
> > places, and things) and flying as low as I can, as fast as I can. It
> > puts a
> > smile on my face.
> >
> > I sure miss 100 foot low level flights in the F-4G which we would do
> > at 480
> > knots ground speed. However on some missions, if we had a little
> > extra fuel
> > and the proper airspace, we would push it up and do high 600 to low 700
> > knots on the deck. It makes your heart race, the hair on your head
stand
> > up, put wood in your .... (you know but the list is G rated and should
> > be).
> >
> > The bottom line, Low and Slow or Low and Fast, stop by APV (I am in the
> > phone book) and lets tell stories and hangar fly. There is room in the
> > pilot world for both. I just happen to be one who loves FAST.
> >
> > Tom Gummo
> > "GummiBear"
> > Retired F-4G Wild Weasel Instructor Pilot
> > Prez of EAA Chapter 768
> > Teller of tall tails (some maybe true)
> > Pilot and owner of N561FS Harmon Rocket II
> > Apple Valley, CA
> > Apple Valley Airport - Building #6 Hangar #1
> >
>
>
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Can I have one of the 40 regs?
Ralph Capen
-------Original Message-------
From: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!!
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Hello All...
I've been off list due to my Iraqi Freedom deployment and am back
online!!!
What did I miss??? =) Anyway, for those with my old email address,
note
the change (for the better!!!).
Now that my days of deploying to desert locations and worrying about
Iraq
are over...I have a few desert flightsuits to part with for those who are
interested. I have 3 of them......first to respond gets it...one per
person
please.....just asking for $15 to help with the shipping and I'll send
them
out to you tomorrow. The details are below.
#1: 40 Regular (fits my 5'9" frame...good from 140-185lbs folks),
this
particular one I used for two months...still in good shape....it has about
9
missions over Iraq!!
#2: 40 Regular...same as above only never used.
#3: 44 Short (mis-order)...should fit about 5"4" to 5'8"...out to
240lbs I would guess.
All are Desert Tan with matching tan velcro....my rank is still attached
so
feel free to remove it. Thanks...
Regards,
Kurt Klewin, OKC, OK
RV6A....Barts Engine coming next week!!!!!!!!!!1
Do Not Archive
href="http://www.matronics.com/subscription">http://www.matronics.com/subscription
href="http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm">http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
href="http://www.matronics.com/search">http://www.matronics.com/search
href="http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list">http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list
href="http://www.matronics.com/archives">http://www.matronics.com/archives
href="http://www.matronics.com/photoshare">http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
href="http://www.matronics.com/rv-list">http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
href="http://www.matronics.com/emaillists">http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Re: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Kurt,
Thank you very much for your service to our country (I've got lots of
friends & relatives still there). I'll take one of the "40" if it's
available.
Chuck
daytime phone (559) 935-1525 ext. 139
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV6AOKC@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
> Hello All...
>
> I've been off list due to my Iraqi Freedom deployment and am back
online!!!
> What did I miss??? =) Anyway, for those with my old email address,
note
> the change (for the better!!!).
>
> Now that my days of deploying to desert locations and worrying about
Iraq
> are over...I have a few desert flightsuits to part with for those who are
> interested. I have 3 of them......first to respond gets it...one per
person
> please.....just asking for $15 to help with the shipping and I'll send
them
> out to you tomorrow. The details are below.
>
> #1: 40 Regular (fits my 5'9" frame...good from 140-185lbs folks),
this
> particular one I used for two months...still in good shape....it has about
9
> missions over Iraq!!
>
> #2: 40 Regular...same as above only never used.
>
> #3: 44 Short (mis-order)...should fit about 5"4" to 5'8"...out to
> 240lbs I would guess.
>
> All are Desert Tan with matching tan velcro....my rank is still attached
so
> feel free to remove it. Thanks...
>
> Regards,
>
> Kurt Klewin, OKC, OK
> RV6A....Barts Engine coming next week!!!!!!!!!!1
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | RV8 back seat instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Friend and I are contemplating putting some small diameter instruments in
the back seat area of our 8s like you might find in the front seat of a 2
place Pitts.
The back seat of the Pitts has a curved instrument panel which I could
roughly see imitating for the 8's rear seat compartment.
Question: Anyone out there know of anyone who's done this and hopefully
have some info at a web site? Anyone contemplated this seriously and come
up with a technical reason why not to?
TIA,
lucky
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Protecting the Canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
I highly recommend Spraylat as well, but despite the name, I simply brushed
on three heavy coats full strength (about 3/4 qt for an 8) waiting long
enough between coats for the coating to change from milky white to
semi-transparent. When fully dry, it's almost fully transparent. I used it
on my Long-Ez canopy as well. Left it on for over one year and had no
problems peeling it off.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Wenzel [mailto:TWenzel@heartland-software.com]
SPAM_PHRASE_01_02@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Protecting the Canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wenzel"
<TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
Doug,
I used a paintable/sprayable product called "Spraylat" that is a
sprayable latex. You thin it with water and spay on the canopy. When you
want it off, you can peel it provided you didn't spray it too thin. It's
working great for me; however is won't protect the canopy from dropping
a tool on it...
You can get it at spruce -
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/spraylat.php
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
N900TW - Reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Landmann [mailto:douglandmann@wi.rr.com]
Subject: RV-List: Protecting the Canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Landmann <douglandmann@wi.rr.com>
I have an RV-6A slider project that I acquired from another builder.
Over
the course of time the protective plastic on the canopy has been torn,
patched, taped, etc. to the point that it became necessary to remove it
and
remove all the tape residue. I have now completed the canopy
installation
and would again like to protect the plastic from exposure in my workshop
to
dust and dirt and other nasty things. What material can I use to
protect
the canopy. I have considered using plastic kitchen wrap since it
clings
so nicely to the plastic and would not have to be taped in place. Does
anyone know if this material releases any harmful vapors or will bond in
any way to the canopy? Is there another material available that will
serve
the protective function?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Doug Landmann
RV-6A on the gear
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV8 back seat instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
One reason not to could be weight. Just to add a "few" instruments, you
could be adding wiring, plumbing, panelling, etc. A lot of increased
complexity, too.
So far, I think the best installation i've seen in the back seat of an
RV-8 is a Garmin 295 mounted on the back of the front seat. Clean,
simple, compact. You don't need to go with that model, the 195 or 196
would do (black and white) or even a GPS V (slightly smaller screen).
Your back seat passenger might never ask "are we there yet?" again... 8-)
-RB4
lucky macy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> Friend and I are contemplating putting some small diameter instruments in
> the back seat area of our 8s like you might find in the front seat of a 2
> place Pitts.
>
> The back seat of the Pitts has a curved instrument panel which I could
> roughly see imitating for the 8's rear seat compartment.
>
> Question: Anyone out there know of anyone who's done this and hopefully
> have some info at a web site? Anyone contemplated this seriously and come
> up with a technical reason why not to?
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Re: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
So...Um.....they are not soiled are they?
At 01:22 PM 5/5/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Can I have one of the 40 regs?
>
>Ralph Capen
>-------Original Message-------
>From: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!!
>
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
>Hello All...
>
> I've been off list due to my Iraqi Freedom deployment and am back
>online!!!
> What did I miss??? =) Anyway, for those with my old email address,
>note
>the change (for the better!!!).
>
> Now that my days of deploying to desert locations and worrying about
>Iraq
>are over...I have a few desert flightsuits to part with for those who are
>interested. I have 3 of them......first to respond gets it...one per
>person
>please.....just asking for $15 to help with the shipping and I'll send
>them
>out to you tomorrow. The details are below.
>
> #1: 40 Regular (fits my 5'9" frame...good from 140-185lbs folks),
>this
>particular one I used for two months...still in good shape....it has about
>9
>missions over Iraq!!
>
> #2: 40 Regular...same as above only never used.
>
> #3: 44 Short (mis-order)...should fit about 5"4" to 5'8"...out to
>240lbs I would guess.
>
>All are Desert Tan with matching tan velcro....my rank is still attached
>so
>feel free to remove it. Thanks...
>
>Regards,
>
>Kurt Klewin, OKC, OK
>RV6A....Barts Engine coming next week!!!!!!!!!!1
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/subscription">http://www.matronics.com/subscr
>iption
>href="http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm">http://www.matronics.com/FAQ
>/RV-List.htm
>href="http://www.matronics.com/search">http://www.matronics.com/search
>href="http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list">http://www.matronics.com/brow
>se/rv-list
>href="http://www.matronics.com/archives">http://www.matronics.com/archives
>href="http://www.matronics.com/photoshare">http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>href="http://www.matronics.com/rv-list">http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
>href="http://www.matronics.com/emaillists">http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>>
>
>
Message 56
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|
"'RV-List Digest Server '" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: certification |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Maxson" <matt@techs4jesus.com>
But the act of putting a certified part into an uncertified a/c (i.e. kit
built) makes the part automatically uncertified. Certification doesn't
matter anyway because we are building experimental aircraft.....
Matt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: certification
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Folks,
>
> I hate to disagree with some very learned comments, but, changing any
> component or part on an engine to a different part if that part is not
> listed in the manufacturer's parts manual or type certificate for that
> engine model and sub-model makes it un-certified. It doesn't matter if its
a
> mag or a crankshaft, although the mag is much easier to re-replace back to
> certified status.
>
> An approprately rated mechanic may supervise work done by a non-rated
> person, but they must supervise, and be available for supervising while
the
> work is being done.
>
> Being in the next state or county may not qualify depending on your FSDO.
>
> Also, the appropriately rated mechanic who signs the maintenance record is
> returning the aircraft component back to service by assuring that the work
> done is of airworthy status.
>
> As a supervising mechanic there are not too many un-certified folks who I
> would trust to inspect, measure, reassemble and torque a case to an
> airworthy status without my direct supervison and assistance.
>
> And I would expect that most FSDOs would agree with me. So that being
said,
> if you build an engine, get, and pay someone who is certified, and knows
> what they are doing to supervise your progress.
>
> W
>
>
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV8 back seat instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
no, weight and "complexity" are definately not an issue to us and a GPS is
not a flight instrument.
do not archive
>From: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 back seat instruments
>Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 15:00:47 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
>One reason not to could be weight. Just to add a "few" instruments, you
>could be adding wiring, plumbing, panelling, etc. A lot of increased
>complexity, too.
>
>So far, I think the best installation i've seen in the back seat of an
>RV-8 is a Garmin 295 mounted on the back of the front seat. Clean,
>simple, compact. You don't need to go with that model, the 195 or 196
>would do (black and white) or even a GPS V (slightly smaller screen).
>
>Your back seat passenger might never ask "are we there yet?" again... 8-)
>
>-RB4
>
>lucky macy wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Friend and I are contemplating putting some small diameter instruments
>in
> > the back seat area of our 8s like you might find in the front seat of a
>2
> > place Pitts.
> >
> > The back seat of the Pitts has a curved instrument panel which I could
> > roughly see imitating for the 8's rear seat compartment.
> >
> > Question: Anyone out there know of anyone who's done this and hopefully
> > have some info at a web site? Anyone contemplated this seriously and
>come
> > up with a technical reason why not to?
>
>
Message 58
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV8 back seat instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
-> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>Friend and I are contemplating putting some small diameter instruments in
>the back seat area of our 8s like you might find in the front seat of a 2
>place Pitts.
>
>The back seat of the Pitts has a curved instrument panel which I could
>roughly see imitating for the 8's rear seat compartment.
>
>Question: Anyone out there know of anyone who's done this and hopefully
>have some info at a web site? Anyone contemplated this seriously and come
>up with a technical reason why not to?
>
>TIA,
>lucky
>
Yes, it's been done, but I can't recall who did it! Frankly, I see no need
whatsoever for such an undertaking. It's extra weight, complexity, cost and
time for questionable gains. Not a single pax in my airplane over the past
three years has mentioned they felt the airplane needed gauges in the back.
IF they want to check the ASI, VSI, or whatever, I lean over a tad and they
can see what they want.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
340 hrs.
Message 59
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pop Rivet Help! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Jeff,
In my 6A kit, MK-319-BS rivets were supplied as an alternative for skinning
the wing in the wing root area because of the difficulty of using AN3 rivets
there. These are pop rivets similar to the CS4-4 rivets but the shank is
.110dia. and the head is a little larger than a AN 3 rivet. You could drill
the holes to fit these rivets and then countersink them to get a nice fit
and still have plenty of "meat" left on the Horiz. stab skin (presumably
.032 thk as in the 6A?) (I didn't use any of them because I installed and
riveted the wing-root ribs from outboard to in board one at the time, using
the standard AN rivets.)
Cheers!! -----Henry Hore
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 back seat instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
you must be a small to medium in stature.
i haven't flown in the back of an 8 yet and thought it wouldn't be much
improved with a couple key instruments in the back.
I have no intention of leaning over while my friends fly from the back.
Go back to the drawing board and be more helpful and try to recall who did
it! :-)
>From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 back seat instruments
>Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 22:28:59 +0000
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>-> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Friend and I are contemplating putting some small diameter instruments in
> >the back seat area of our 8s like you might find in the front seat of a 2
> >place Pitts.
> >
> >The back seat of the Pitts has a curved instrument panel which I could
> >roughly see imitating for the 8's rear seat compartment.
> >
> >Question: Anyone out there know of anyone who's done this and hopefully
> >have some info at a web site? Anyone contemplated this seriously and
>come
> >up with a technical reason why not to?
> >
> >TIA,
> >lucky
> >
>
>Yes, it's been done, but I can't recall who did it! Frankly, I see no need
>whatsoever for such an undertaking. It's extra weight, complexity, cost
>and
>time for questionable gains. Not a single pax in my airplane over the past
>three years has mentioned they felt the airplane needed gauges in the back.
>IF they want to check the ASI, VSI, or whatever, I lean over a tad and they
>can see what they want.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>340 hrs.
>
>
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 back seat instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
It has been done...
http://www.staff.uiuc.edu/~bkowalsk/index6.htm
Also, I am thinking of developing a panel for the rear to sell on
www.creativair.com if there is interest...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 back seat instruments
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Friend and I are contemplating putting some small diameter instruments in
the back seat area of our 8s like you might find in the front seat of a 2
place Pitts.
The back seat of the Pitts has a curved instrument panel which I could
roughly see imitating for the 8's rear seat compartment.
Question: Anyone out there know of anyone who's done this and hopefully
have some info at a web site? Anyone contemplated this seriously and come
up with a technical reason why not to?
TIA,
lucky
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Personally I'd go with the landing that works best for you. If you feel more comfortable,
more in control with three-pointers, practice those and perfect them,
or the same if you feel more comfortable with wheel landings. My instructor
insisted that I always three-point the plane. That's what I learned and what
I still stick with. It's good to know how to do both but I've never found
a NEED to wheel land the plane. Gusty winds or not. For what it's worth, the
RV series wheel land very nicely, much better than that cantankerous ol' Luscombe.
Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
Listers,
I am in the middle of getting my taildragger endorsement and have
experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings. The three-pointers
are not a problem. I would appreciate any tips that have worked for
others.
--
RV-4
N311SV, FLYING!!
bless those who curse you, pray for those who mistreat you
Luke 6:28, NAS
---------------------------------
Message 63
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| Subject: | RV8 back seat instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Ok, how about cost? For an extra $1700 you can mount a second screen in the
back for a Bluemountain Avionics EFIS-one. Two or three pounds and you get
all the flight and engine instruments, plus the gps moving map display. Of
course you have to buy the EFIS-one first, which I think is close to $15,000
now. Mine was ordered at just under $10,000. I saw a picture somewhere of
an RV-8 with the added screen in the back seat.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Seattle
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
no, weight and "complexity" are definately not an issue to us and a GPS is
not a flight instrument.
do not archive
Message 64
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|
| Subject: | Zen and the art of engine rebuilding |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
Thanks for all the great info on certification of rebuilt engines.
But my original question was prompted by John Helms who, in his recent
thread on auto engine insurability, indicated that the XP360 may not be
insurable because the insurance company would not know the qualifications of
the builder.
The whole point of the homebuilder movement is that we can insure an
aircraft that we have built ourselves, so are we also able to insure the
engine we have built ourselves?
Does anyone have any direct experience?
Gordon Robertson
RV-8
Message 65
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|
| Subject: | Protecting the Canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I use a product that ACS sells called "Spray Lat" really works great.
Noel and Yoshie Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
"We do builder assistance!"
Toll Free: 866-859-0390
info@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:info@blueskyaviation.net>
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Landmann
Subject: RV-List: Protecting the Canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Landmann <douglandmann@wi.rr.com>
I have an RV-6A slider project that I acquired from another builder. Over
the course of time the protective plastic on the canopy has been torn,
patched, taped, etc. to the point that it became necessary to remove it and
remove all the tape residue. I have now completed the canopy installation
and would again like to protect the plastic from exposure in my workshop to
dust and dirt and other nasty things. What material can I use to protect
the canopy. I have considered using plastic kitchen wrap since it clings
so nicely to the plastic and would not have to be taped in place. Does
anyone know if this material releases any harmful vapors or will bond in
any way to the canopy? Is there another material available that will serve
the protective function?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Doug Landmann
RV-6A on the gear
Message 66
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| Subject: | Re: Zen and the art of engine rebuilding |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
I believe that you well find John Helms replied that XP-360
was now considered insurable.
do not archive
Gordon Robertson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
>
> Thanks for all the great info on certification of rebuilt engines.
>
> But my original question was prompted by John Helms who, in his recent
> thread on auto engine insurability, indicated that the XP360 may not be
> insurable because the insurance company would not know the qualifications of
> the builder.
>
> The whole point of the homebuilder movement is that we can insure an
> aircraft that we have built ourselves, so are we also able to insure the
> engine we have built ourselves?
>
> Does anyone have any direct experience?
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV-8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 67
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|
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Nels Hanson <pa201950@yahoo.com>
Here's what I did for what it's worth. Get up
early(just as the sun is breaking over the
horizon),pick a morning with no wind,find a long grass
strip,fly along about 70 or so,fly about 6" above the
nice smooth grass,set one wheel down gently as
possible,pick it up,set the other one down,go
around,smell the morning air,and do it again and again
until you feel comfortable with the plane. Learn to
make very small control inputs(like milking a mouse).
You'll get there sooner,rather than later. Used to do
this at an old grass strip after about a 2" snowfall
just to see the marks I could make in the snow!! Same
strip I used to ride my bike to when I was 5 yrs. old,
hanging around until some of the pilots would feel
sorry for me and offer me a ride!! You can read all
the instructions you want to,but nothing substitutes
for good old fashioned experience. 330 hrs.Luscombe
8A,400 hrs. RV-6
As a side note,my hanger mate took me up Sat.PM(he
is an old fighter pilot)and showed me some barrel
rolls,aileron rolls,split S's,ect. Now I have expanded
my enjoyment of my RV-6.
--- Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen
> <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> Personally I'd go with the landing that works best
> for you. If you feel more comfortable, more in
> control with three-pointers, practice those and
> perfect them, or the same if you feel more
> comfortable with wheel landings. My instructor
> insisted that I always three-point the plane.
> That's what I learned and what I still stick with.
> It's good to know how to do both but I've never
> found a NEED to wheel land the plane. Gusty winds
> or not. For what it's worth, the RV series wheel
> land very nicely, much better than that cantankerous
> ol' Luscombe.
>
> Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com wrote:--> RV-List
> message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> Listers,
> I am in the middle of getting my taildragger
> endorsement and have
> experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings.
> The three-pointers
> are not a problem. I would appreciate any tips that
> have worked for
> others.
>
>
> --
> RV-4
> N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> bless those who curse you, pray for those who
> mistreat you
> Luke 6:28, NAS
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 68
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D. Crowe" <tripacer@bellsouth.net>
Jeff,
The plans call for a MK319BS rivet. Dimple for a 3/32. Drill it with a
No.33 bit and pop it in. It does not stick up.
Mike Crowe
Subject: RV-List: Pop Rivet Help!
--> RV-List message posted by: JCTV <jctv@yahoo.com>
I need a little help from those of you have already
build an RV-6, 7 or 8.
I am currently working on the left elevator and have
followed the plans until now, but now I am stuck.
I riveted everything together up to the small spar for
the trim tab, (part #E-606), which calls for 4 pop
rivets in the end that are not accessible to squeeze.
The problem is the pop rivets called for in the plans
are CS4-4 which are 1/8". I drilled and dimpled all
the holes 3/32",(as per the plans prior to this
point).
Now that everything is riveted together I can't go
back and redimple to the larger size so I need some
advice.
Do I just use smaller pop rivets or do I drill out the
holes and have 4 rivet heads sticking up?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
RV-7A
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 69
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|
| Subject: | Re: Back on the List...and some more free stuff!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Thanks for the response....had some quicker folks though!!! Sorry. I
appreciate your interest.....have a great day!!! (didn't know these would
be so popular!!!)
Kurt in OKC
Message 70
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|
| Subject: | RV8 back seat instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
That's not my style.
I think the fella that Bill vonDane was capable of supplying a web site to
is on the right track. That's an even more interesting panel than I was
thinking of but it's enough to allow a pilot in the back to be able to
really fly the plane. I would probably add a VSI instrument to that. He's
got the look though.
>From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RV8 back seat instruments
>Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 15:58:12 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
>Ok, how about cost? For an extra $1700 you can mount a second screen in
>the
>back for a Bluemountain Avionics EFIS-one. Two or three pounds and you get
>all the flight and engine instruments, plus the gps moving map display. Of
>course you have to buy the EFIS-one first, which I think is close to
>$15,000
>now. Mine was ordered at just under $10,000. I saw a picture somewhere of
>an RV-8 with the added screen in the back seat.
>
>Terry
>RV-8A #80729
>Seattle
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>no, weight and "complexity" are definately not an issue to us and a GPS is
>not a flight instrument.
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 71
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|
| Subject: | Flightsuits Spoken For...Thanks for your emails... |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Thanks all for your response to cleaning out my deployment bag of a few
flightsuits. I didn't know they were so popular!!! You guys are quick on
the response.
Thanks again everyone...happy building/flying!!!
Kurt in OKC
Do Not Archive
Message 72
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|
| Subject: | NEVAF Fly-in June 21st. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Di Meo" <bdimeo@attbi.com>
To keep you all up to date on the progress for the fly-in at the Nashua
airport on June 21st. We are arranging to add a seminar on formation flying.
Mark your calendars!
Bob Di Meo
Message 73
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--> RV-List message posted by: Top Secret <starcast82@yahoo.com>
Thinking strongly of building an RV after completing my pilots license. I was wondering
if there was anyone in Ohio currently building or flying an RV aircraft.
I'd like to see your projects you are building to see what is involved in
constructing an RV and if possible find someone who is finished and will take
me for a ride so I can be sure that I know what I will have when finished and
also learn what they thought of the building process. Thanks everyone
---------------------------------
Message 74
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|
| Subject: | RE: Re : Alternator pulleys |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
Hi Jim and fellow Listers,
I guess I am a classic victim of believing what I read on the List, but I vaguely
recall that Tony Bingellis suggested using a 4 inch alternator pulley.
Anyway, it does seem logical that with the driving pulley (Lycoming flywheel) being
of such a large diameter, that the standard automotive-size pulley is going
to make the alternator spin real fast, even given the relatively low revs of
the Lycoming. I haven't tested it, but I reckon the 35A alternator will supply
plenty for my requirements even at idle - being radio, fuel boost pump, engine
instruments only.
And if I'm wrong - then I will simply replace the pulley..
Cheers
Martin in Oz
Message 75
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|
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Taildragger Wheel Landings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
> >
> --snip--
> >
> > No matter how much I argued, they were resolute, no wheel landing no
> > checkout!
>
> I'm in favour of that. I'm a check pilot for my RAA chapter, on a
tailwheel
> airplane (Druine Turbi). I insist that a pilot I'm checking out
demonstrate
> decent wheel landings.
>
> Don Alexander:
>
> One tip I've found that sometimes helps is, when practising
touch-and-goes, to
> not think of it as a landing but as flying down and running your wheels on
the
> ground and then flying away again (like the old barnstormers used to do
along
> the roofs of the hangars). Thinking of it that way helps you keep flying
the
> airplane throughout the manoeuvre.
>
> Another thing that helps (though some might consider it a bad habit) is to
have
> a little bit of power on for the touch down--just above idle. It helps
keep
> the tail up. I usually do a power-off approach, but for a wheel landing I
> crack the throttle shortly before going into ground effect.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
> -6 wings
>
>
Message 76
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|
| Subject: | Re: ohio builders |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Hi,
Didn't get your name, age, serial number, but....I'll bite. I can always use
another $100 finders fee :
). I'm in SE Ohio.
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - yup....it flies
do not archive
>
> Thinking strongly of building an RV after completing my pilots license. I
> was wondering if there was anyone in Ohio currently building or flying an
> RV aircraft. I'd like to see your projects you are building to see what is
> involved in constructing an RV and if possible find someone who is finished
> and will take me for a ride so I can be sure that I know what I will have
> when finished and also learn what they thought of the building process.
> Thanks everyone
Message 77
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|
| Subject: | Re: ohio builders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
We have an informal builders group in the Cincinnati Tri-State area. We
visit projects and provide assistance for each other. If you're on this side
of Ohio drop me a line.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "Top Secret" <starcast82@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: ohio builders
> --> RV-List message posted by: Top Secret <starcast82@yahoo.com>
>
> Thinking strongly of building an RV after completing my pilots license. I
was wondering if there was anyone in Ohio currently building or flying an RV
aircraft. I'd like to see your projects you are building to see what is
involved in constructing an RV and if possible find someone who is finished
and will take me for a ride so I can be sure that I know what I will have
when finished and also learn what they thought of the building process.
Thanks everyone
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 78
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit@eonet.net>
Jeff,
I literally just finished that exact section. I just drilled them out
to #30, and used the MK319BS rivets. They sit really flush without any
re-dimpling or deburring or anything. And I'm told they will paint just
as good with a little filler-help in the center hole.
Now I have a question: I looked all over the archives and couldn't find
anyone who remembers how to rivet the trim tab and hinge. I followed
(blindly?) the instructions and riveted the bottom flange, but left the
top clecoed. Now it's time to rivet that sucker, and I cannot figure
out how to get a squeezer in there! ANYBODY got any ideas???
Clayton Henderson
RV-7
---
Message 79
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|
| Subject: | Parking fee for an RV at San Jose International - $50! |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Wow, what a shock! Either buy 25 gallons of gas or pay $50 ramp
fee. Ugh. I landed with 20 gallons already on board just so I wouldn't
have to buy gas there. I knew better having parked close by for ten years.
I got off lucky. The girl, slightly less haughty than the usual, waived
the fee charging only for my best effort at getting 25 gallons. So I came
off owing a mere $67 for 19+ gallons! Only because they did have me in
their database as once having been a resident.
They really want you to use the reliever, Reid Hillview in South San
Jose. You'd think that the computer industry slump would mean the jets
would all be elsewhere like Stockton - many are. Wonder what is up?
I real kick tho seeing my little 6a parked among ten or twelve jets.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne, former Silicon Valley database wonk.
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 80
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|
<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>, "Ed Arbogast" <eddyarby@i2k.com>,
"Mary Bell" <belhom@michweb.net>, "Mike Bell" <wingman@michweb.net>,
"Jack Haviland" <jgh@iavbbs.com>, "Jack/Kate" <kate@iavbbs.com>,
<terry@iwantarocket.com>
| Subject: | rv flyin in Cadillac, MI |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Bell" <dbell@manisteenational.com>
Fellow builders and flyers,
EAA Chapter 678 will be hosting for the third consecutive year a gathering of RV's
and anyone else who would like to fly in or drive in to Cadillac, MI on Saturday
May 17th.
Our chapter clubhouse is on the south side of Wexford County Airport in Cadillac.
In the past we have upwars of 27 rvs along with a variety of others. We will
be gathering starting around 830 or 900am with coffee and donuts and will
follow around lunchtime with Chili and soda.
If you would like specific driving instructions to our clubhouse please email me.
We have an 8 getting real close and a 6 also getting closer to copmpletion
in our chapter.
Driving: US 131 either north or south to 13th St. headed west.
turn north on 6th Avenue (at 4 winns boats cruiser plant)
Drive north to the dead end and you run into the clubhouse Quonset
hut.
Flying: We have paved as well as a north south grass strip for you to choose
from and taxiways mowed to our clubhouse. If using the
pavement ( 7-25) turn off near the vasi lights to the south.
Anyone wanting to come in early there is plenty of room to pitch a tent or let
me know and we can find you a place to stay.
Hope to see you there,
Doug Bell, Jr.
8QB
Message 81
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Re : Alternator pulleys |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Martin,
This pulley thing is becoming another tempest in a teapot deal.
As big deals go this ain't one. I do though favor the idea of the lister
that suggested the result 'might' be too slow at idle causing low output.
Also the larger pulley might be a pain when the time to fit the cowling
comes around. Some others before us have had to modify the cowlings with a
small blister to make it fit. The cowling fit problem could have been caused
by other factors such as using an entirely different alternator or what have
you.
As it turns out I to have a so to speak "non stock pulley' Mine is about
three and a half inches. At that the pulley seems to have just enough
clearance. We will see when that heard of 180 horses gets cut loose in
there.
The engine had been modified by the previous owner. The flywheel and the
alternator pulley have been machined to accept a more recent design thin
three multi-grove belt. I talked it over with the list's favorite engine
Guru and we agreed to go with it.
As you say, if it doesn't, it will get replaced.
Jim in Kelowna----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Hone" <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: RE: Re : Alternator pulleys
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone"
<martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
>
> Hi Jim and fellow Listers,
>
> I guess I am a classic victim of believing what I read on the List, but I
vaguely recall that Tony Bingellis suggested using a 4 inch alternator
pulley.
>snip<
> And if I'm wrong - then I will simply replace the pulley..
>
> Cheers
>
> Martin in Oz
Message 82
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| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "aronsond" <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Don:
Yes, a little increased energy is just what will make you feel more
comforable with a wheel landing. I drive a Cetabria 7ECA/150. I usually
hit the fence at 80mph, flair and keep it level, holding off until I hear
the wheel bearings just noise up. Stick forward and work the rudder. When
I learned this my CFI mentioned "anticipate the bearings" and it took. A
little faster speed will help with better control as well as a bit less
settling.
You'll get it, Keep Practicing!!!
Happy flying
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com>
Subject: RV-List: Taildragger Wheel Landings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> Listers,
> I am in the middle of getting my taildragger endorsement and have
> experienced some difficulty with the wheel landings. The three-pointers
> are not a problem. I would appreciate any tips that have worked for
> others.
>
> Here's the situation:
> I'm on short final at around 60 kts ('46 Luscombe) and turning around 1100
> rpm. I've killed the drift, and am tracking true. As I get into ground
> effect, I am beginning my flare and things start getting crazy. I am
> having a difficult time making myself push the stick forward once my mains
> touch...it contradicts everything that I know to be true for tri-gears.
> Would I be better off landing at a slightly higher speed by flying it onto
> the deck rather than slightly flaring? Second question- How do the RV's
> compare to the Luscombe when it comes to handling on the ground? Several
> people have raised a brow when I have told them that I was learning in a
> Luscombe. What is it about a Luscombe that causes this response? I have
> been able to experience a pretty stiff cross wind in the Luscombe without
> too much difficulty, so my hopes are that the RV will be even more docile.
>
> To the non-taildragger pilots: I have already witnessed an improvement in
> my tricycle skills since I have started working on my taildragger
> endorsement. I am much more aware of what is going on during landing.
> Before, I would be content to fly into the flare and let things settle out
> on their own...now I have learned not to become a passenger in the last
> foot or so of landing. For lack of a better description, the taildragger
> training has slowed down those final seconds of flight to a point that
they
> can be managed. It is like observing a landing in slow-motion from behind
> the plane. (Or is this caused by licking those mushrooms?) No new skills
> are required, only focusing on the basics that I should have been
following
> all along in the tricycle configuration. This is the most fun that I
> have had in an airplane, and if you feel the need for a landing refresher,
> this is a great way to go.
>
> Don Alexander
> RV-8 or 8A (Soon to decide)
>
>
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