Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:52 AM - Re: More RV-10 PIX (lmrowles)
2. 01:52 AM - Re: More RV-10 PIX (lmrowles)
3. 02:06 AM - Re: Twelfth Annual Homewing RV Fly-In (Randall Henderson)
4. 04:18 AM - Re: More RV-10 PIX (Ken Balch)
5. 05:07 AM - Re: RV10: Oh my God!!!! (graham jones)
6. 06:42 AM - Coffee (Wheeler North)
7. 07:25 AM - Re: O-320 B3B (P M Condon)
8. 07:26 AM - Re: RV10: Oh my God!!!! (C. Rabaut)
9. 09:03 AM - Re: Re: Electroluminescent Lighting (Wayne R. Couture)
10. 09:38 AM - Eyeball Swivel Vent (Wallace Enga)
11. 09:51 AM - Arms (Bill VonDane)
12. 10:08 AM - Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent (Ross Schlotthauer)
13. 10:13 AM - smallest eyeball vents? (Dan Checkoway)
14. 10:17 AM - RV Building Question (HCRV6@aol.com)
15. 10:22 AM - waxing the airframe: handling effects (SportAV8R@aol.com)
16. 10:24 AM - Re: Arms (SportAV8R@aol.com)
17. 10:28 AM - Re: smallest eyeball vents? (SportAV8R@aol.com)
18. 10:33 AM - Re: Electroluminescent Lighting (pauls@kc.rr.com)
19. 10:34 AM - Re: More RV-10 PIX (Garry LeGare)
20. 10:39 AM - Re: RV Building Question (Brian Denk)
21. 10:55 AM - Re: waxing the airframe: handling effects (Scott Bilinski)
22. 11:28 AM - Re: waxing the airframe: handling effects (Rob Miller)
23. 11:46 AM - Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent (Wallace Enga)
24. 12:04 PM - Re: smallest eyeball vents? (Keith Vasey)
25. 01:23 PM - Re: Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent ()
26. 02:49 PM - Re: More RV-10 PIX (Bob Newman)
27. 03:01 PM - Re: More RV-10 PIX (Boyd C. Braem)
28. 03:10 PM - Re: Re: RV List Dimple Sizes (Bob Newman)
29. 03:22 PM - Re: Re: RV List Dimple Sizes (DWENSING@aol.com)
30. 03:46 PM - Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent (Dave Bristol)
31. 04:10 PM - Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent (Dave Bristol)
32. 05:55 PM - alternator installation (Amit Dagan)
33. 06:08 PM - Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
34. 07:11 PM - Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent (N223RV@aol.com)
35. 07:11 PM - Re: O-320 B3B (Eustace Bowhay)
36. 07:41 PM - Re: alternator installation (Tom Webster)
37. 07:53 PM - Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent (Al Mojzisik)
38. 08:51 PM - Re: Dimple die sizes (Karie Daniel)
39. 09:13 PM - Outstanding IFR RV-6A for sale (Doug Weiler)
40. 09:53 PM - Re: waxing the airframe: handling effects (Jeff Bertsch)
41. 10:41 PM - Alligator Pneumatic Squeezer ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: More RV-10 PIX |
--> RV-List message posted by: lmrowles <lmrowles@netspace.net.au>
At 05:48 PM 14/05/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
>
> Sorry, but I think the RV-3 still has the best
>> lines in the fleet and this airplane will not change that.
>>
>> Tailwinds,
>> Doug Rozendaal
>> RV-4
>>
>> That oughtta throw some gas on the fire ;-)
>>
>>
>> _-
>
>That's only because you haven't seen my RV6A Doug...........
>
>That does it....no beer for you at OSH!
How you gonna get him to sleep Jeff?
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: More RV-10 PIX |
--> RV-List message posted by: lmrowles <lmrowles@netspace.net.au>
At 05:48 PM 14/05/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
>
> Sorry, but I think the RV-3 still has the best
>> lines in the fleet and this airplane will not change that.
What would a b25 driver know any way???
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Twelfth Annual Homewing RV Fly-In |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
Wups! I go to 56S so often I must have it's ID on the brain -- I meant
SPB... hopefully there won't be a flock of RVs at the wrong airport, saying
"Well I put it into my GPS and this is where I ended up...!"
> Mark your calendars! The Twelfth Annual Home Wing RV Fly-In is coming up,
> Saturday June 14 at Scappoose, OR Airport (56S). Check out the web page
> www.vanshomewing.org for all the details (including a sneak preview of
this
> year's T-shirt art.) See you there!
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: More RV-10 PIX |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
Just to throw some more fuel on the fire: I really like the full bubble
canopy look and I wouldn't trade it (or my slider) for that butt ugly
'fastback' mod. What a horrible thing to do to a beautiful airplane...
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
Dr. Leathers wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
>If we are going to talk about beautiful lines, go see what is soon to be available to RV-8 builders at www.showplanes.com Personally, I can't wait to see what these mods do for speed!! Combine this fastback mod with the Super-8 stuff we are seeing now, and WOW!!!! Pre-punched kit, improved lines and Rocket Power!! Am I right??
>
>Doc
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rocket-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: More RV-10 PIX
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
>>
>>Using that logic where does the HR2 or F-1 fit in. KABONG Do Not Archive
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: More RV-10 PIX
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>then alpha, of course ;-) ) Sorry, but I think the RV-3 still has the
>>>
>>>
>>best
>>
>>
>>>lines in the fleet
>>>
>>>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV10: Oh my God!!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: graham jones <gratech2@bigpond.com>
Alas! There is a solution..... Make it in alloy.... What's an English
wheel for anyway ??
The people with the metal work skills like shot bagging and wheel rolling
are dying out...... We need something like this to keep their skills and
abilities alive.....
There have only been two pieces of metal work that have bought a lump into
my throat. The first was a replacement one piece front end skin for a Dino
Ferrari like race car a fellow built out here in OZ and the other was the
nose bowl and engine cowl of a tiger moth a friend restored. When I looked
into it they were done totally independantly and years apart, by a father
(the car) and son (Tiger).... Both were wheel formed, gas welded and shot
bagged finish jobs and you couldn't tell where the seams were and they
weren't fully polished when I saw them.....
So you don't have to have a F$%#&
glass top on your 10..... just be
creative.....
Jonesy in OZ
----- Original Message -----
From: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV10: Oh my God!!!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> It's true, I know the truth, and have seen the light. But what are you
glass blasphemies going to do? Oh my God, the whole top half of the 10 is,
DO I DARE SAY IT????
>
> Fiberglass!!!!!
>
> Can't wait to see it in person. Glass is nice!!!
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
Since I started this, I must admit that I had no intent of driving aluminum
rivets in Leadville, given the probability of cross contamination during the
low density cold working process thereby creating a whole new alloy. Now
that I know they can't make good coffee, this is particularly poignant given
that the boiling temparature of this new alloy will be undetermanent due to
the fact that I will be nodding from a lack of oxygen, and more importantly,
a lack of hi test caffine.
One would think that since Starbucks owns the universe of coffee shops that
they should now have the political leverage to have the laws of physics
changed. Go figure...
do not archive
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
And the carb attach point on the bottom of the sump is shifted from the
center line a wee bit. Can't recall how much in inches, but its minor. I
do recall that it isn't dead-nuts on the center line like the -D1A is. I
had to sand a radies on the FAB air box bottom to clear the bottom cowl.
All-in-all no problem. BESURE to contact Vetterman to see if his exhaust
will clear the intake risers.(I think it will)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV10: Oh my God!!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Forget the Glass... look at those tiny ailerons and those HUGE flaps. The
roll rate has got to be about 15 degrees a minute.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV10: Oh my God!!!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Well not the whole top half, just the cabin area.
>
> do not archive
> Jerry
>
> ktlkrn@cox.net wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >
> > It's true, I know the truth, and have seen the light. But what are you
glass blasphemies going to do? Oh my God, the whole top half of the 10 is,
DO I DARE SAY IT????
> >
> > Fiberglass!!!!!
> >
> > Can't wait to see it in person. Glass is nice!!!
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie
> > Chandler AZ
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Electroluminescent Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Paul,
Some questions. What color did you use? Did you use the strips or the
wire? Do you have any other type of lighting for your flight gages? Do the
gages reflect the light so you can see them clearly at night? How long a
strip did you use? Where did you mount it?
Thanx
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Electroluminescent Lighting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Stratman" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
>
> I have EL lighting strip across the under side of my glare shield. LOVE
it.
>
> Got it at beingseen.com , called the guy, great to work with. A little
slow
> in shipping
> from what I remember, but the stuff is fantastic at lighting the panel in
my
> 6A
>
>
> Paul
> RV-6A N21PS
> "Taylor Maid"
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Eyeball Swivel Vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com>
I didn't like Van's plastic air vents so ordered the
eyeball swivel vents from Aircraft Spruce.
However these vents have a nozzle outlet of only
about 7/8" diam compared to 1.5 " diam for Vans
or about 40% of the outlet area.
Anyone tried using these --- will they provide sufficient
air on a warm day?
Wally Enga
RV7
Message 11
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"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Anyone done up a weight and balance spreadsheet that includes the ARM for adding
weight in the tail?
Does anyone have the arms for the tail area of an RV-8?
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
Wally,
I am in the same boat. What did you give for them?
-Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Fuse, Picking up the finish kit today
--- Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wallace Enga
> <wenga@svtv.com>
>
>
> I didn't like Van's plastic air vents so ordered the
> eyeball swivel vents from Aircraft Spruce.
>
> However these vents have a nozzle outlet of only
> about 7/8" diam compared to 1.5 " diam for Vans
> or about 40% of the outlet area.
>
> Anyone tried using these --- will they provide
> sufficient
> air on a warm day?
>
> Wally Enga
> RV7
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | smallest eyeball vents? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm looking for the smallest possible eyeball vents that are still
functional. Really it's the mounting flange that I want to be as small as
possible.
I think it's one of the Lancair vents that I saw which has no flange, just a
retaining nut?
I'd love to find something that's in the 1.5" to 2" size range.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV Building Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Can anyone out there tell me what the correct torque is for the "O" ring fuel
pump fittings on my O-360. I checked the Lyc O'haul manual but don't see it
in there.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 15
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| Subject: | waxing the airframe: handling effects |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
This post contains a lot of subjective speculations, and may prove
frustrating. Delete now if you simply must have "data" to deal with a
question posed to the list :-)
After yesterday, I find myself wondering if anyone else has noticed a fairly
striking difference in their RV's handling characteristics after buffing
their paint job and waxing the airframe and propeller for the first time...
Figuring 5 years was long enough to wait, I decided to buy an electric buffer
and some compound and finally get around to rubbing out my basecoat/clearcoat
paint job. Alright, I admit it, I had done some recent repainting on a few
of the fiberglass parts and they looked crappy enough that I wanted to try
anything that might inprove the finish. My body shop friend told me that I
could buff without fear of damage on a paint job as old as mine, as it should
have cured hard as glass by now. Boy, was he right. Most of the pebbly
areas and nibs in the clearcoat are there to stay unless I go back to wet
sanding with 1200 or similar. Still, the compound did seem to restore the
luster, and the surface smoothness was improved somoewhat by my efforts. The
Meguiar's liquid wax really made the paint glow. Now I have to be careful
leaning against the plane that I don't slide off and lose my balance!
Having done the prop, spinner, cowl, upper surfaces of both wings, and the
upper surfaces of the horizontal stab and elevators plus the entire vertical
stab and rudder, I decided to get in a quick flight before dark. It was a
dead calm evening. The tanks held only about 5 gallons each, enough for a
ten minute mission. The runway had just been mowed. A billion bugs were
loitering around, waiting to leave their dying impression on my shiny
airframe and canopy. Under such conditions, there is only one thing to do...
After a normal taxi and run-up, I advanced the throttle. The ground run was
normal. Clinb-out felt really flat, like I wasn't seeing all the power I was
accustomed to. ROC was a bit below normal, but then I noticed the airspeed
was higher than usual - already 120mph. Trim was set where it always was,
but this...? As I pulled skyward, weighing my options should the engine
falter, I noticed a "thrumming" vibration in the joystick that felt
unfamiliar. I started to envision a rag streaming from the elevator, left
behind by a fool pilot with a wax job on his mind. I circled the field at
1000 msl and reduced power. The engine was running strong but sounded
different - check the LightSpeeds: yep, they're powered up and batteries are
in the green; the ANC is functional. What's the deal? Is it "automatic
rough," knowing I only have 10 gallons aboard and approaching darkness? Nah.
Let's pour the coal on and see what she does straight and level. Way before
I expected it, the GRT engine monitor master alarm light is on for a
propeller overspeed condition, and I'm seeing 180 mph IAS and, at least
momentarily, about 250 fpm climb. Normally, when I get a prop redline light,
the tach will show 2610, where the light is set to come on, and there is no
need to hurry with power reduction or pitch up unless I'm in a shallow dive.
This time the tach said 2640...2650... yikes! - don't like to experiment
with 10th order vibrations when Ed Z has already done that for me. Now I'm
wondering if this greased cat is going to want to blow through the pattern
and float off the runway in a minute; these are airspeeds and rpm's that I am
not used to seeing below about 5000 DALT.
Landing was surprisingly tame and conventional, with the joystick "rumble"
not really noticable anymore below about 120 mph, but getting her down to the
top of the white arc ate up much more of the downwind leg than is normal; the
airframe seems (subjectively) to be an order of magnitude more slippery.
Never did find anything amiss with the controls; no rags hanging from the
elevators. One thing I forgot to check after shut-down is whether the
exhaust pipe may have slipped a bit in its vibration mount and touched the
lower cowl exit, which has happened before and makes a noticable difference
in cockpit vibration level.
Well, maybe I got spooked and psyched myself into thinking the plane was
falling apart because of a wax job, or maybe there are some real changes that
occur when minor surface imperfections are buffed out on so large an area;
maybe it was waxing the prop that did it. I do know that there was so much
bug juice dried on the back of the prop blades when I shut down that the prop
was not super-sleek for very long on that flight! But I wanted to share my
subjective impressions and see if anyone else ever had their plane change
personalities on them unexpectedly. I admit more data is needed. This
report is long on fluff and short on hard numbers. 0.2 hrs is not much of a
test flight.
If any of this apparent speed gain is real, it does make me more motivated to
get on my back on a creeper and buff and wax the underside! Orthopedic
wellness is a small thing to sacrifice for additional knots!
Any takers on this one?
Bill B
RV-6A 288hrs
O-320-E2D 160 hp with Sensenich FP
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 05/15/2003 12:52:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
> Anyone done up a weight and balance spreadsheet that includes the ARM for
> adding weight in the tail?
>
> Does anyone have the arms for the tail area of an RV-8?
>
>
Bill: might want to check with your Browning .50 cal dealer. While you're at
it, order some for the wings.
-Bill B
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: smallest eyeball vents? |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 05/15/2003 1:18:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
> I'm looking for the smallest possible eyeball vents that are still
> functional. Really it's the mounting flange that I want to be as small as
> possible.
>
> I think it's one of the Lancair vents that I saw which has no flange, just
> a
> retaining nut?
>
> I'd love to find something that's in the 1.5" to 2" size range.
>
I think my "next" panel for the -6A will feature rectangular vents liberated
from some junked luxury car. I know enough about fiberglass work by now to
fashion my own reducers to connect these to any size SCAT that is needed, and
I bet you do, too :-)
Just a thought.
-Bill B
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Electroluminescent Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "pauls@kc.rr.com" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
I used the El Flat line 1/2" wide and I think it was about 3' long. It is
installed under the glare shield and the color is blue. Then I wired the
power through a cheap Radio Shack rehostat for dimming. The flight
instrument is a Dynon-self lit. The flatline with dimmer turned up lights
everything else.
Paul Stratman
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: More RV-10 PIX |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garry LeGare <versadek@earthlink.net>
Rob,
It's called progress. Gotcha.
Casper (putting on Nomex outfit)
do not archive
Rob Prior wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
> >
> >>http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-10int8.htm#latest
> >
> > The more new RV designs I see, the more I believe that the model number of
> > an RV is inversely proportional to its attractiveness. (sorted numerically,
> > then alpha, of course ;-) ) Sorry, but I think the RV-3 still has the best
> > lines in the fleet and this airplane will not change that.
>
> Now if they'd put a *tailwheel* on it instead of a nosewheel, it would
> look better... 8-) But i'm more concerned with the increased percentage
> of fibreglass in the construction. Soon we won't be able to turn our
> noses up at the fast glass crowd, if the current trend keeps up...
>
> -RB4
> rv7 "at" b4.ca
>
> do not archive
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RV Building Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
>Can anyone out there tell me what the correct torque is for the "O" ring
>fuel
>pump fittings on my O-360. I checked the Lyc O'haul manual but don't see
>it
>in there.
>
>Harry Crosby
Harry,
These fittings rely on the O-rings for sealing. The threads don't perform
this function, like with a tapered pipe thread. Get a firm seat..metal on
metal, just snug, and that's enough.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: waxing the airframe: handling effects |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I read a book about WWII fighters years ago and they claimed 10 MPH
increase after a good wax job. Also, all the Reno racers wax their planes
far more speed. I bet high speed race cars do the same....like the
bonnevile cars.
At 01:19 PM 5/15/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
>This post contains a lot of subjective speculations, and may prove
>frustrating. Delete now if you simply must have "data" to deal with a
>question posed to the list :-)
>
>After yesterday, I find myself wondering if anyone else has noticed a fairly
>striking difference in their RV's handling characteristics after buffing
>their paint job and waxing the airframe and propeller for the first time...
>
>Figuring 5 years was long enough to wait, I decided to buy an electric buffer
>and some compound and finally get around to rubbing out my basecoat/clearcoat
>paint job. Alright, I admit it, I had done some recent repainting on a few
>of the fiberglass parts and they looked crappy enough that I wanted to try
>anything that might inprove the finish. My body shop friend told me that I
>could buff without fear of damage on a paint job as old as mine, as it should
>have cured hard as glass by now. Boy, was he right. Most of the pebbly
>areas and nibs in the clearcoat are there to stay unless I go back to wet
>sanding with 1200 or similar. Still, the compound did seem to restore the
>luster, and the surface smoothness was improved somoewhat by my efforts. The
>Meguiar's liquid wax really made the paint glow. Now I have to be careful
>leaning against the plane that I don't slide off and lose my balance!
>
>Having done the prop, spinner, cowl, upper surfaces of both wings, and the
>upper surfaces of the horizontal stab and elevators plus the entire vertical
>stab and rudder, I decided to get in a quick flight before dark. It was a
>dead calm evening. The tanks held only about 5 gallons each, enough for a
>ten minute mission. The runway had just been mowed. A billion bugs were
>loitering around, waiting to leave their dying impression on my shiny
>airframe and canopy. Under such conditions, there is only one thing to do...
>
>After a normal taxi and run-up, I advanced the throttle. The ground run was
>normal. Clinb-out felt really flat, like I wasn't seeing all the power I was
>accustomed to. ROC was a bit below normal, but then I noticed the airspeed
>was higher than usual - already 120mph. Trim was set where it always was,
>but this...? As I pulled skyward, weighing my options should the engine
>falter, I noticed a "thrumming" vibration in the joystick that felt
>unfamiliar. I started to envision a rag streaming from the elevator, left
>behind by a fool pilot with a wax job on his mind. I circled the field at
>1000 msl and reduced power. The engine was running strong but sounded
>different - check the LightSpeeds: yep, they're powered up and batteries are
>in the green; the ANC is functional. What's the deal? Is it "automatic
>rough," knowing I only have 10 gallons aboard and approaching darkness? Nah.
> Let's pour the coal on and see what she does straight and level. Way before
>I expected it, the GRT engine monitor master alarm light is on for a
>propeller overspeed condition, and I'm seeing 180 mph IAS and, at least
>momentarily, about 250 fpm climb. Normally, when I get a prop redline light,
>the tach will show 2610, where the light is set to come on, and there is no
>need to hurry with power reduction or pitch up unless I'm in a shallow dive.
>This time the tach said 2640...2650... yikes! - don't like to experiment
>with 10th order vibrations when Ed Z has already done that for me. Now I'm
>wondering if this greased cat is going to want to blow through the pattern
>and float off the runway in a minute; these are airspeeds and rpm's that I am
>not used to seeing below about 5000 DALT.
>
>Landing was surprisingly tame and conventional, with the joystick "rumble"
>not really noticable anymore below about 120 mph, but getting her down to the
>top of the white arc ate up much more of the downwind leg than is normal; the
>airframe seems (subjectively) to be an order of magnitude more slippery.
>Never did find anything amiss with the controls; no rags hanging from the
>elevators. One thing I forgot to check after shut-down is whether the
>exhaust pipe may have slipped a bit in its vibration mount and touched the
>lower cowl exit, which has happened before and makes a noticable difference
>in cockpit vibration level.
>
>Well, maybe I got spooked and psyched myself into thinking the plane was
>falling apart because of a wax job, or maybe there are some real changes that
>occur when minor surface imperfections are buffed out on so large an area;
>maybe it was waxing the prop that did it. I do know that there was so much
>bug juice dried on the back of the prop blades when I shut down that the prop
>was not super-sleek for very long on that flight! But I wanted to share my
>subjective impressions and see if anyone else ever had their plane change
>personalities on them unexpectedly. I admit more data is needed. This
>report is long on fluff and short on hard numbers. 0.2 hrs is not much of a
>test flight.
>
>If any of this apparent speed gain is real, it does make me more motivated to
>get on my back on a creeper and buff and wax the underside! Orthopedic
>wellness is a small thing to sacrifice for additional knots!
>
>Any takers on this one?
>
>Bill B
>RV-6A 288hrs
>O-320-E2D 160 hp with Sensenich FP
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: waxing the airframe: handling effects |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Bill
I am wondering the same thing about my -8 but have to wait another month
for the paint to cure. When Cafe tested a Mooney 201 they caliculated a
speed increase of 2.8 knots when wax was applied to the entire airframe.
If you check the Cafe site you can read the article for yourself.
Interesting stuff.
Rob Miller -8 N262RM "Bad Cat"
Photos available on www.homebuiltairplanes.com
--- SportAV8R@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> This post contains a lot of subjective speculations, and may prove
> frustrating. Delete now if you simply must have "data" to deal with a
> question posed to the list :-)
>
> After yesterday, I find myself wondering if anyone else has noticed a
> fairly
> striking difference in their RV's handling characteristics after buffing
>
> their paint job and waxing the airframe and propeller for the first
> time...
>
> Figuring 5 years was long enough to wait, I decided to buy an electric
> buffer
> and some compound and finally get around to rubbing out my
> basecoat/clearcoat
> paint job. Alright, I admit it, I had done some recent repainting on a
> few
> of the fiberglass parts and they looked crappy enough that I wanted to
> try
> anything that might inprove the finish. My body shop friend told me
> that I
> could buff without fear of damage on a paint job as old as mine, as it
> should
> have cured hard as glass by now. Boy, was he right. Most of the pebbly
>
> areas and nibs in the clearcoat are there to stay unless I go back to
> wet
> sanding with 1200 or similar. Still, the compound did seem to restore
> the
> luster, and the surface smoothness was improved somoewhat by my efforts.
> The
> Meguiar's liquid wax really made the paint glow. Now I have to be
> careful
> leaning against the plane that I don't slide off and lose my balance!
>
> Having done the prop, spinner, cowl, upper surfaces of both wings, and
> the
> upper surfaces of the horizontal stab and elevators plus the entire
> vertical
> stab and rudder, I decided to get in a quick flight before dark. It was
> a
> dead calm evening. The tanks held only about 5 gallons each, enough for
> a
> ten minute mission. The runway had just been mowed. A billion bugs
> were
> loitering around, waiting to leave their dying impression on my shiny
> airframe and canopy. Under such conditions, there is only one thing to
> do...
>
> After a normal taxi and run-up, I advanced the throttle. The ground run
> was
> normal. Clinb-out felt really flat, like I wasn't seeing all the power
> I was
> accustomed to. ROC was a bit below normal, but then I noticed the
> airspeed
> was higher than usual - already 120mph. Trim was set where it always
> was,
> but this...? As I pulled skyward, weighing my options should the engine
>
> falter, I noticed a "thrumming" vibration in the joystick that felt
> unfamiliar. I started to envision a rag streaming from the elevator,
> left
> behind by a fool pilot with a wax job on his mind. I circled the field
> at
> 1000 msl and reduced power. The engine was running strong but sounded
> different - check the LightSpeeds: yep, they're powered up and batteries
> are
> in the green; the ANC is functional. What's the deal? Is it "automatic
>
> rough," knowing I only have 10 gallons aboard and approaching darkness?
> Nah.
> Let's pour the coal on and see what she does straight and level. Way
> before
> I expected it, the GRT engine monitor master alarm light is on for a
> propeller overspeed condition, and I'm seeing 180 mph IAS and, at least
> momentarily, about 250 fpm climb. Normally, when I get a prop redline
> light,
> the tach will show 2610, where the light is set to come on, and there is
> no
> need to hurry with power reduction or pitch up unless I'm in a shallow
> dive.
> This time the tach said 2640...2650... yikes! - don't like to
> experiment
> with 10th order vibrations when Ed Z has already done that for me. Now
> I'm
> wondering if this greased cat is going to want to blow through the
> pattern
> and float off the runway in a minute; these are airspeeds and rpm's that
> I am
> not used to seeing below about 5000 DALT.
>
> Landing was surprisingly tame and conventional, with the joystick
> "rumble"
> not really noticable anymore below about 120 mph, but getting her down
> to the
> top of the white arc ate up much more of the downwind leg than is
> normal; the
> airframe seems (subjectively) to be an order of magnitude more slippery.
>
> Never did find anything amiss with the controls; no rags hanging from
> the
> elevators. One thing I forgot to check after shut-down is whether the
> exhaust pipe may have slipped a bit in its vibration mount and touched
> the
> lower cowl exit, which has happened before and makes a noticable
> difference
> in cockpit vibration level.
>
> Well, maybe I got spooked and psyched myself into thinking the plane was
>
> falling apart because of a wax job, or maybe there are some real changes
> that
> occur when minor surface imperfections are buffed out on so large an
> area;
> maybe it was waxing the prop that did it. I do know that there was so
> much
> bug juice dried on the back of the prop blades when I shut down that the
> prop
> was not super-sleek for very long on that flight! But I wanted to share
> my
> subjective impressions and see if anyone else ever had their plane
> change
> personalities on them unexpectedly. I admit more data is needed. This
> report is long on fluff and short on hard numbers. 0.2 hrs is not much
> of a
> test flight.
>
> If any of this apparent speed gain is real, it does make me more
> motivated to
> get on my back on a creeper and buff and wax the underside! Orthopedic
> wellness is a small thing to sacrifice for additional knots!
>
> Any takers on this one?
>
> Bill B
> RV-6A 288hrs
> O-320-E2D 160 hp with Sensenich FP
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com>
Ross,
I paid about $45 each for them --- Aircraft Spruce also
sells some other aluminum air vents that may be a
little larger but they are in the $160 each price range - yikes.
I have some doubts though if enough air can be pushed through
a couple of 7/8" diam holes to cool the cockpit down.
At 10:04 AM 5/15/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
>
>Wally,
>
>I am in the same boat. What did you give for them?
>
>-Ross Schlotthauer
>RV-7 Fuse, Picking up the finish kit today
>
>
>--- Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wallace Enga
> > <wenga@svtv.com>
> >
> >
> > I didn't like Van's plastic air vents so ordered the
> > eyeball swivel vents from Aircraft Spruce.
> >
> > However these vents have a nozzle outlet of only
> > about 7/8" diam compared to 1.5 " diam for Vans
> > or about 40% of the outlet area.
> >
> > Anyone tried using these --- will they provide
> > sufficient
> > air on a warm day?
> >
> > Wally Enga
> > RV7
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | smallest eyeball vents? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Keith Vasey" <keith@galvinflying.com>
I got the "no-flange" eyeball vent from the Lancair (Columbia) guys. Their
supplier is Kit Components. See
www.kitcomponents.com
Keith Vasey
Seattle RV-8
Nearly canopy cutting time
Dan Checkoway sez:
I'm looking for the smallest possible eyeball vents that are still
functional. Really it's the mounting flange that I want to be as small as
possible.
I think it's one of the Lancair vents that I saw which has no flange, just a
retaining nut?
I'd love to find something that's in the 1.5" to 2" size range.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
J.C. Whitney has some that look interesting. They are cheap enough for experimenting
without risking a bunch of money.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
>
> From: Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com>
> Date: 2003/05/15 Thu PM 02:47:21 EDT
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Eyeball Swivel Vent
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com>
>
>
> Ross,
>
> I paid about $45 each for them --- Aircraft Spruce also
> sells some other aluminum air vents that may be a
> little larger but they are in the $160 each price range - yikes.
>
> I have some doubts though if enough air can be pushed through
> a couple of 7/8" diam holes to cool the cockpit down.
>
> At 10:04 AM 5/15/03 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Wally,
> >
> >I am in the same boat. What did you give for them?
> >
> >-Ross Schlotthauer
> >RV-7 Fuse, Picking up the finish kit today
> >
> >
> >--- Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com> wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Wallace Enga
> > > <wenga@svtv.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > I didn't like Van's plastic air vents so ordered the
> > > eyeball swivel vents from Aircraft Spruce.
> > >
> > > However these vents have a nozzle outlet of only
> > > about 7/8" diam compared to 1.5 " diam for Vans
> > > or about 40% of the outlet area.
> > >
> > > Anyone tried using these --- will they provide
> > > sufficient
> > > air on a warm day?
> > >
> > > Wally Enga
> > > RV7
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: More RV-10 PIX |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Newman" <newmanb@rocketmail.com>
How is rollover protection provided for the cabin?
do not archive
Bob
newmanb@rocketmail.com
newmanb@rocketmail.com
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: More RV-10 PIX |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
No, you're not.
A fast-back turle deck for the -8 is hardly a new idea and it's been
done on the -4 for years. Perhaps you've seen a Harmon Rocket and esp.
the newer single-seat HR III, which has been flying for a while now.
Putting a -540 in a RV does not necessarily make it "Super". My
airplane, designed and built by Tom Hallendorf, was the first RV to use
the "Super" designation when it flew in 1998. Along with substantial
airframe mods it has one kick-as* engine from LyCon that just, uh, goes
like stink. It flies just like a little military jet except that
there's this twirly thing in front of you. Making a slow airframe go
faster is not always the best idea. It might help to make some
basic/simple airframe mods to beef things up so that the pilot can
actually use that extra hp. This would probably help Van sleep better
at night, also. Generically speaking, for a "standard" GA airframe,
doubling the horsepower can get you a 20-25% increase in top
speed--theoritically, you could get 33% out of a really slick little
poodle.. Whoa, there, Gilligan, little buddy! And then you get to
watch your wings fall to Earth, beneath you, because you flew into the
turbulence at a too great rate of speed--at least, that's the story from
the "Super-8" guys.
If this sounds grumpy, well, I'm off to see my probation officer and to
check in for alcohol rehab--what???---no detox pills???
Boyd
RV-Super 6/N600SS
Dr. Leathers wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
>If we are going to talk about beautiful lines, go see what is soon to be
>available to RV-8 builders at www.showplanes.com Personally, I can't wait to
>see what these mods do for speed!! Combine this fastback mod with the
>Super-8 stuff we are seeing now, and WOW!!!! Pre-punched kit, improved lines and
Rocket Power!! Am I right??
>
>Doc
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rocket-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: More RV-10 PIX
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | RE: RV List Dimple Sizes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Newman" <newmanb@rocketmail.com>
Agreed. There is a nice table at http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/drill-
tables/screw2.html . For clearance hole for #8 screw in al materials, calls
for #8 drill for close fit and #16 frill for free fit.
Bob
> A #12 drill seems kinda big for a #8 screw. I use a #19 or #20 for
> those. I think you must be prepping for a #10 (3/16) screw if you're
> drilling #12.
Bob
newmanb@rocketmail.com
newmanb@rocketmail.com
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV List Dimple Sizes |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 5/15/03 6:12:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
newmanb@rocketmail.com writes:
> For clearance hole for #8 screw in al materials, calls
> for #8 drill for close fit and #16 frill for free fit.
>
>
I think #8 above should #18 for close fit.
do not archive
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
I don't know why people don't like the eyeballs that Van's sells - they
look good and work very well.
Dave
do not archive
Wallace Enga wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com>
>
>
>I didn't like Van's plastic air vents so ordered the
>eyeball swivel vents from Aircraft Spruce.
>
>However these vents have a nozzle outlet of only
>about 7/8" diam compared to 1.5 " diam for Vans
>or about 40% of the outlet area.
>
>Anyone tried using these --- will they provide sufficient
>air on a warm day?
>
>Wally Enga
>RV7
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
I don't know why people don't like the eyeballs that Van's sells - they
look good and work very well.
Dave
do not archive
Wallace Enga w
Wallace Enga wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com>
>
>
>I didn't like Van's plastic air vents so ordered the
>eyeball swivel vents from Aircraft Spruce.
>
>However these vents have a nozzle outlet of only
>about 7/8" diam compared to 1.5 " diam for Vans
>or about 40% of the outlet area.
>
>Anyone tried using these --- will they provide sufficient
>air on a warm day?
>
>Wally Enga
>RV7
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | alternator installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
This is for those of you who have the 60 amp alternator kit from VANS -
Can anyone email me a scan or picture of the installation diagram included
in the kit ?
otherwise I'll just have VANS send me a copy in the slow mail.
Thanks,
Amit.
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
I got mine from Wick's in Black for $59.95 ea. The vents are aluminum,
swivel and seal tight......see page 57 in their 2003 Catalog.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Eyeball Swivel Vent
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer
<rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
>
> Wally,
>
> I am in the same boat. What did you give for them?
>
> -Ross Schlotthauer
> RV-7 Fuse, Picking up the finish kit today
>
>
> --- Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wallace Enga
> > <wenga@svtv.com>
> >
> >
> > I didn't like Van's plastic air vents so ordered the
> > eyeball swivel vents from Aircraft Spruce.
> >
> > However these vents have a nozzle outlet of only
> > about 7/8" diam compared to 1.5 " diam for Vans
> > or about 40% of the outlet area.
> >
> > Anyone tried using these --- will they provide
> > sufficient
> > air on a warm day?
> >
> > Wally Enga
> > RV7
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > latest messages.
> > List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
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Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Some Rocket guy had some very large all Aluminum ones for sale at SNF this
year. I met him at the beer tent but don't recall his name. He was asking
somewhere around $135 each for them but they were very nice.... Vents seem
overpriced to me, but compared to others they were well worth it. Maybe
someone on the rocket list knows who this was and has contact information?
If so, please cross post on the RV-List. Thanks
-Mike Kraus
N223RV
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Dana:
As I recall it has a vertical mounted carb at the bottom rear of the sump.
This will mean a sump change if it is to be used in a tri-gear RV.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: O-320 B3B
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Anybody know anything about this engine? I am particularly intersted in
the
> last B designation and the position and type of carb. Looking to spend
> money, just want to make sure it is good money.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: alternator installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Webster" <twebste@hotmail.com>
Amit,
I have a three page doc. from Van's.
It has a 1 page write-up, a mechanical drawing page and an electrical
drawing page.
Do you want the whole doc, or just the electrical or mechanical page? Let
me know.
My full page scans get a little big in size.
Tom
P.S. I have been lurking on and off on this list. My RV-7AQB finish kit
arrived this week.
The FWF kit came also.
do not archive
>From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list-digest@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: alternator installation
>Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 00:54:24 +0000
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>
>This is for those of you who have the 60 amp alternator kit from VANS -
>Can anyone email me a scan or picture of the installation diagram included
>in the kit ?
>otherwise I'll just have VANS send me a copy in the slow mail.
>
>Thanks,
>Amit.
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Eyeball Swivel Vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik <prober@iwaynet.net>
That was the guy I shared a booth with at Sun-N-Fun Here's the info.
Contact Todd Reiffers at (317) 576-9565
or dharmon@iquest.net or www.tail-mate.com before you get any
vents. He has a friend who makes vents exactly like Van's but in all
aluminum. They are a work of art and close so tight that NO air gets
through when you don't want it. They aren't cheap but what is for an
airplane? HTH, Al
At 10:10 PM 5/15/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
>Some Rocket guy had some very large all Aluminum ones for sale at SNF this
>year. I met him at the beer tent but don't recall his name. He was asking
>somewhere around $135 each for them but they were very nice.... Vents seem
>overpriced to me, but compared to others they were well worth it. Maybe
>someone on the rocket list knows who this was and has contact information?
>If so, please cross post on the RV-List. Thanks
>-Mike Kraus
>N223RV
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Dimple die sizes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@attbi.com>
I tried to get around buying a #12 die set and really messed this up. My
advice, just buy the die set. If your in the Seattle area just borrow mine!
Or send me your address and I'll ship this to you and you can return them
when your done.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB in progress
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Antenbring" <mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dimple die sizes
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Antenbring
<mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
>
> In the RV-7 rudder tip rib it says to "enlarge hole to #12, and dimple".
> Geez, I thought I had all the tools. What size dimple die do I need for
#12,
> and are there any other oddball sizes I need to order?
> Thanks,
> Mark
> do not archive
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Outstanding IFR RV-6A for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Fellow Listers:
A wonderful RV-6A has been put up for sale by one of our members. It is a
1998 quickbuild, 180 hp, Hartzell prop, IFR certified, Garmin 430,
autopilot. It is a jewel. I invite you to see the following website for
details.
Many thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/N131LD/index.htm
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: waxing the airframe: handling effects |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
Here is a link to the study on plane waxing done by the Cafe Foundation.
http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/Wax%20Job%20with%20PICT.pdf
Bill, what brand of wax did you use?
Anyone have a favorite wax that they strongly recommend? Has anyone tried the
Rejex stuff and what do you think? I know one fellow who swears by it, and another
that says it is just an overpriced wax and to stick with the basics.
Jeff Bertsch
noms1reqd@swbell.net
---------------------------------
Message 41
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| Subject: | Alligator Pneumatic Squeezer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I just bought an alligator pneumatic squeezer and am having several problems.
Any help would be appreciated:
* Are there any unique tips to adjust the plunger dpeth? I read in the archive
to use washers, but that only allows so much adjustment. I also heard of an
adjustable stop that Avery makes, but I think it is 60 or 70 dollars.
* How do people keep the rivet from bending over when squeezing? Since one arm
of the squeezer goes through an arc, it seems it would always compress at a slight
angle.
* Is 90 psi about right for the squeezer pressure setting?
I wonder if people using the c-type have the same problems. I bought this tool
to make life easier, but right now it is much harder. Between adding and removing
washers and angling rivets, I'm about ready to go back to the old standby
manual.
Thanks,
Scott
7A
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