Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:20 AM - Re: HVLP guns with a compressor? (Boyd C. Braem)
2. 03:44 AM - Re: Ride in a Tomcat - Humor Delete Now!!!! (Boyd C. Braem)
3. 04:55 AM - Avery Jack Stand Kit (Ronschreck99@aol.com)
4. 05:48 AM - Re: RV-10 (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
5. 05:49 AM - Re: HVLP guns with a compressor? (Alex Peterson)
6. 06:06 AM - Re: Avery RV Jack Stand Kit (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
7. 06:42 AM - RV-7 Landing Lights (Pat Hatch)
8. 07:06 AM - Re: Avery RV Jack Stand Kit (Cy Galley)
9. 07:30 AM - Adjusting the vertical stab on RV-4 (Scott Vanartsdalen)
10. 07:33 AM - Re: RV-7 Landing Lights (Steven Eberhart)
11. 08:21 AM - Re: RV-10 (Boyd C. Braem)
12. 08:40 AM - Re: Adjusting the vertical stab on RV-4 (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
13. 08:41 AM - Re: RV-10 (C. Rabaut)
14. 08:43 AM - RV Composite Source (Bill Gunn)
15. 08:46 AM - Big Mistake on the Vertical Stabilizer (Bruce Anthony)
16. 08:58 AM - 7 to 6 fin and rudder (David.vonLinsowe)
17. 09:05 AM - Re: Adjusting the vertical stab on RV-4 (HCRV6@aol.com)
18. 09:10 AM - Re: RV-10 (Tom Gummo)
19. 09:11 AM - Oil cooler hose question (HCRV6@aol.com)
20. 09:19 AM - Re: RV-10 (Terry Watson)
21. 09:19 AM - Re: RV-10 (rv6tc)
22. 09:31 AM - Re: Firewall hinges RV-8 (DAVID REEL)
23. 09:41 AM - new rv-3 design (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
24. 09:41 AM - Re: Adjusting the vertical stab on RV-4 (Denis Walsh)
25. 09:53 AM - Re: RV-10 (Randy Lervold)
26. 09:59 AM - Oil Cooler In/Out question... (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
27. 10:00 AM - Re: 7 to 6 fin and rudder (Jim Jewell)
28. 10:01 AM - RV-10 Autopilot (Pat Hatch)
29. 10:11 AM - Re: Oil Cooler In/Out question... (Kyle Boatright)
30. 10:17 AM - Re: Oil cooler hose question (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
31. 10:23 AM - Re: new rv-3 design (Finn Lassen)
32. 10:42 AM - Re: Big Mistake on the Vertical Stabilizer (Patrick Kelley)
33. 10:51 AM - Insulating fuel lines FWF (was Re: Oil cooler hose question) (David Carter)
34. 10:54 AM - iPAQ and Accessories for sale (Bill VonDane)
35. 10:56 AM - Dimmer switch (Al Grajek)
36. 11:04 AM - Re: new rv-3 design (Michael McGee)
37. 11:12 AM - Re: RV Composite Source (Craig Hiers)
38. 11:13 AM - Re: RV-10 Autopilot (James E. Clark)
39. 11:19 AM - Buffing out polyurethane (czechsix@juno.com)
40. 11:22 AM - Re: new rv-3 design (Kevin Horton)
41. 11:32 AM - Re: Dimmer switch (Jim Daniels)
42. 11:41 AM - Re: Dimmer switch (larry@bowenaero.com)
43. 12:07 PM - Re: Insulating fuel lines FWF (was Re: Oil cooler hose q (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
44. 12:31 PM - Re: Real Long-New Braunfels (Jim Norman)
45. 12:33 PM - Ka-Bong! (Jim Duckett)
46. 12:41 PM - Re HVLP guns with a compressor? (Elsa & Henry)
47. 01:09 PM - Re: Re HVLP guns with a compressor? (Dwight Frye)
48. 01:16 PM - Buffing out Imron (Jim Duckett)
49. 01:36 PM - Painting question... (Ken Balch)
50. 01:40 PM - Re: Real Long-New Braunfels (Larry Pardue)
51. 01:45 PM - Re: Re HVLP guns with a compressor? (Sam Buchanan)
52. 02:01 PM - Re: Ka-Bong! (cecilth@juno.com)
53. 02:01 PM - Re: Painting question... (Brian Denk)
54. 02:28 PM - Re: new rv-3 design (John Starn)
55. 02:46 PM - Re: RV-10 (Greg Young)
56. 02:48 PM - Re: Painting question... (Ken Balch)
57. 03:04 PM - Re: RV-10 (John Starn)
58. 03:04 PM - Re: Real Long-New Braunfels (Jim Norman)
59. 03:07 PM - Re: RV-10 Autopilot (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
60. 03:15 PM - Re: Painting question... (Pat Hatch)
61. 03:19 PM - Re: Painting question... (Brian Denk)
62. 03:41 PM - Re: Painting question... (Ken Balch)
63. 03:49 PM - pricing (Sargentclt@cs.com)
64. 04:08 PM - Re: pricing (Kyle Boatright)
65. 05:02 PM - Re: pricing (Tedd McHenry)
66. 05:14 PM - Re: RV-10 (Greg Young)
67. 05:43 PM - Re: Dimmer switch (Ernest Kells)
68. 05:49 PM - Re: Avery RV Jack Stand Kit (Jerry Springer)
69. 07:29 PM - Renters insurance (Gert)
70. 07:41 PM - Re: pricing (Alex Peterson)
71. 07:57 PM - Re: Painting question... (James E. Clark)
72. 08:03 PM - Re: Avery RV Jack Stand Kit (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
73. 08:25 PM - Re: Wing cooling (another wacky idea) (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
74. 08:29 PM - HVLP Painting (Jim Duckett)
75. 08:33 PM - (Ron Patterson)
76. 08:35 PM - ASI Adjustment? (Randall Henderson)
77. 08:43 PM - Re : Buffing out polyurethane (Martin Hone)
78. 09:21 PM - Re: Elevator Madness (Larry Bowen)
79. 09:24 PM - Re: IO-320 w Hartzell CS prop in a Lancair - for sale (kempthornes)
80. 10:01 PM - Dallas Area RVs or tailwheels? (Larry Bowen)
81. 11:30 PM - Re: new rv-3 design / Tailwheel etc. (James Connell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: HVLP guns with a compressor? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
About painting--If you can bear with me for a moment--
One of the guys at our airport was going to paint his C-172 by himself.
We all thought he was nuts, because he had this little compressor, a
detail spray gun and no paint booth and our hangars are notoriously dirty.
But, he spent several weeks prepping the airplane (and actually a bunch
of us went over to help with the prep because we felt sorry for him) and
it was a lot of work--but, the most important!!! After that, he spent
some time with a bunch of scrap and he experimented with different gun
pressures, learned how close to hold the gun to the surface and how fast
to move his arm back and forth. Then he made a wooden frame covered
with plastic that was big enough to cover his plane to lower up and down
from the ceiling of his hanger--had holes for some fans. It took him a
little time, but his $600 paint job is as good or better than a lot of
$6000 jobs that I've seen. Oh, and he used "generic" Imron and reducer
accessories, etc.
But, the thing is is that he learned his system and optimized it.
Jim Oke wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
>Hi Mark;
>
>I painted a -6A with a compressor rig similar to what you have last fall and
>I found it doable with care. Effectively you end up spraying for a few
>minutes, waiting for a few minuutes (you have to keep refilling the paint
>gun cup anyway) and spraying some more. I am happy with my results and my
>problem areas were not due to lack of air capacity in any case.
>
>In an ideal world, your air system should have enough capacity to put a
>continuous film of paint on the biggest area you are going to spray at one
>time but there are enough compromises in a "self help" paint job in terms of
>ventilation, exhaust, lighting, spray technique, etc., that this is not a
>big deal. A multi color scheme as you have choosen with only part of a wing
>to paint at a time will help here. Just have at and do the best you can.
>
>(If perfection is your goal, do the prep yourself and then haul the pieces
>to a pro shop where they will have have the big air system and paint
>facilities that few of us can afford for a one time use.)
>
>BTW, don't believe too much of the fluff about "minimal overspray from an
>HVLP". Even an HVLP will surprise you with the amount of $$ paint that ends
>up on the floor and wall of your paint booth. I have a pair of yellow shoes
>somewhere to show for my efforts!
>
>Jim Oke
>Winnipeg, MB
>RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Ride in a Tomcat - Humor Delete Now!!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Tom--
Unfortunately that's one of the left-over adolescent remnants of our
youth, in that every newby is supposed to upchuck on his first jet ride.
But, I mean you know as well as I do that it's all a matter of
acclimation to your environment. Do you remember Sen Jake Garn? He was
like the first politico to go up in the Shuttle--and during his 0-g
(parabolic) training rides and once he got up in space, this guy was
hacking and peuking all over the place (in fact, some of his body fluids
that weren't contained, floated into some of the instrument panel stuff
and actually shorted out a few things!!!)--I know, for some years and
they may still do it today, but if your a barffer, you get rated on the
"Garn-scale".
And, in the RV's you have to treat first passengers as if you were an
airline pilot--all nice and smooth--very solid, predictable--off course,
that didn't stop my sister-in-law from grabbing my really nice cap and
barffing into it--oh, well.
Boyd.
Tom Gummo wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>do not archive
>
>Humor Alert - Nothing to do with building an RV.
>
>
>
>
>
>For over ten years of my twenty in the Air Force, I was the Life Support
>Officer. It meant that I had working for me, several enlisted personnel
>whose job it was to fit and maintain the flight equipment we wore, helmets,
>g-suits, survival vests, etc., etc. I was also my job to give the training
>on how to use the equipment as well as the ejection seat, survival kit, and
>parachute (once every six months). So, it was also my job to give this
>training to "non" aircrew members who got a ride in the F-4.
>
>Most people are nervous about a ride in the F-4 in the first place but the
>training scares the sh*t out of them. There are about twenty ways the
>ejection seat can kill you and only one in which it will save your life.
>Then if you make it out of the plane, the parachute has another twenty ways
>to kill you, etc, etc. Of course 99.99% of the time, the seat and chute
>work just fine but I was forced to cover the other JUST IN CASE.
>
>Anyway, I now have a person thinking about all the ways he can die, so of
>course, what to eat always comes up. I always said "MEXICAN". The looks I
>would get. It is the last thing they thought they would hear. They would
>then say WHY?????
>
>"Because, it looks the same going down as it looks coming up." :-)
>
>It truth, I would tell them to eat something because if you got sick and had
>nothing in side you, it is hard to get the "dry heaves" to stop. Eat a
>little of something that your system liked. I never thought of bananas but
>they sound like a good idea.
>
>I gave a lot of these rides because I promised to never try to make anybody
>sick. Of course, if they asked for a loop and that made them sick so be it.
>The best ride I gave was to a young enlisted weapons loading troop. He
>said he wanted to do it all. He did fine on the first couple of acro
>maneuvers but finally got sick. Normally, they would just ask to be taken
>home at that point. We didn't have voice activitived intercom but flew with
>the mics on or "hot mic" (the noise was controlled by being inside the
>oxygen mask). You had to release one side of the mask if you got sick, so
>you could do your business into the sicksack. I didn't want to hear them be
>sick as well as all the engine noise made using the radio hard so I always
>made sure they knew how to go "cold mic". After a maneuver, I hear the
>click of him going cold mic so I know he is sick. I fly the plane straight
>and level to try to not make the matter worse. But, I think the ride is
>over and he will want to go home as soon as possible. A minute later, he
>comes back up hot mic and says do something else. The next half hour was
>spent with me turning the jet inside out with periods of him going cold mic
>and a minute or two later yelling MORE. After the ride he told me, he knew
>this was his only chance to fly in the F-4 and he didn't care how sick he
>got, he wanted to do it all.
>
>On the other end of the spectrum, I had one of my own life support techs and
>he had made a bet with a young lady I had flown a week before. She didn't
>get sick but she didn't want to do anything after the aileron roll. He had
>been ragging on her for being a wuss. I knew I was in trouble as we walked
>out to the plane. I am 5' 9" and at my max allowable weight and he is 6' 4"
>and is a body builder. So there go Mutt and Jeff walking across the ramp.
>As I look at him, he is GREEN. I get him strapped in, start the engines,
>and taxi to the end of the runway. All the time, I was talking in a manner
>to hopefully calm him down. As we pull onto the runway, I tell him if he
>wants to stop I will taxi off the runway but if he says go and I lit the ABs
>it is too late. He says go. So, I lit the ABs and off down the runway we
>go, the nose wheel liftoff is 135 KNOTS and takeoff speed is 180 KNOTS.
>Somewhere between those two speeds, I hear sounds of him being sick. WE
>WERE STILL ON THE GROUND. He lost the bet.
>
>The reporter said don't go (I think he was joking). But I say, if you were
>to get a chance to fly in a jet fighter, GO GO GO !!!!!! Will you get sick,
>it depends on what type of flight it is and YOU. About fifty percent do get
>sick so why sorry about it. Just keep asking for more after each visit to
>the sicksack, and you will have the ride of your life. Am I something
>special because I don't get sick, NO. I just have had lots of training and
>experience. If I took a couple of weeks off, I can tell you that the G's
>seems harder and the body would start to complain.
>
> Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
>APV - Harmon Rocket II N561FS
>it is not a jet but it is a rocket :-)
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Avery Jack Stand Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ronschreck99@aol.com
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ronschreck99@aol.com
>
>I bought Avery's RV Jack Stand Kit (Part # 561-1, catalog page 62, $35)
>recently and come to find that the hole through the axle on my RV-8 isn't big
>enough or deep enough. It is a 3/4 inch hole which is 3/4 inch deep. The
>jack stand needs a 7/8 inch hole about 3 1/2 inches deep! The Avery catalog
>says the jack stand is for use with Wittman Style hollow axles. I just
>assumed that all RV's use the same axle. (Somebody once told me never to
>assume anything when building an RV but I was picking my nose at the time.)
>
>Here's my question. Should I (1):pack the jack stand up and return it to
>Avery? (2): Go buy some Wittman axles for the RV; and where do I get those?
>(3): Drill my axles out to 7/8 inch for a 3 1/2 inch depth and hope they
>don't break on my first landing? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>Thanks.
>
>
>Ron Schreck
>RV-8, Charlotte NC
>
The RV-8 has different axles than any of the other RVs, so it is no
surprise that this doesn't work. The other RVs have axles that are
bent on the end of the Wittman style spring steel gear legs. The
RV-8 has aluminum axles that bolt on the end of the flat gear legs.
Aluminum is not nearly as strong as steel, so that probably explains
why the RV-8 axles have a smaller diameter hole, to give more wall
thickness.
I think you would be taking too big a risk of an axle failure if you
drilled them out. Even if the static strength was still OK, you
could easily create a stress riser that would lead to a fatigue crack
and eventual axle failure. An axle failure could lead to a very
nasty accident. I strongly recommend you find another way to jack
the aircraft.
--
Kevin Horton
Kevin,
Thanks to you and all the other replies. I'll be returning the Avery kit and
try something else. Has anyone fabricated a jacking post to fit the wing
tiedown hardpoint that is stable enough to prevent massive damage to the
wing? I have an idea but hesitate to go where others have failed.
Ron Schreck
Message 4
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tests=BAYES_01,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
I already have mock up drawings for my coffee maker in my center arm rest
for the 10:)
Oh and did anyone notice the second cabin top in the background of one of
the pics? They are already playing with a second 10 in the shop.
Mike Stewart
PS, sorry for the late reply, was RV'ing at SWRFI with Falcon Flight. Class
act those guys. We had a terrific time there. One of my highlights was to
get Stu to fly my wing in his RV-3. Man what a terrific looking plane. Sexy
and fast. First RV-3 I have had a chance to really look closely at and fly
with. Makes me wanna cut off my training wheel, slice off 2 wing bays, can
the right seat, toss out all non-essential flying crap I have, and go fly.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: BBreckenridge@att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge@att.net]
Subject: RV-List: RV-10
--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
Looks like the folks at the plant are really getting excited about the "10"!
More pictures were posted this morning. It's looking really close to
flying.
I might have to cancel my appointments for a few days, grab a sleeping
bag, run down to Aurora's airport and camp under my wife's c172...
Mike (Stewart): did you ever figure out which coffee maker would work in
your "altitudinally correct" RV? I bet there's room in the 10 for a full
espresso stand!!
Bruce Breckenridge
Clackamas, OR
Message 5
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| Subject: | HVLP guns with a compressor? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
HVLP with a turbine can be easily learned. Just accept the fact that it
will work as well as the old type, when operated correctly, which really
isn't difficult. The most difficult thing is learning to "upscale" the
paint temperature reducers. I can't imagine painting with the ol'
fogger again. My plane has no lemon peel, and it was the first thing I
painted of that magnitude. If you are getting lemon peel, something is
wrong with paint/settings. Just a different point of view, I am no
expert, just an amateur.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 300 hours
www.rvforum.org
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Avery RV Jack Stand Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Jerry Springer wrote:
> -No!! in my not so humble opinion do not drill them.
> Send them back and ask Avery about the difference size.
>
> Jerry
But if it where mine I would drill them...
Phil
Message 7
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| Subject: | RV-7 Landing Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Question for the sheared wingtip guys: I am building a -7 now and am looking into
my options for landing/pulse lights for the wingtips. I prefer not to do
the leading edge system. I have the RMD lights with Bob Haan's wigwag unit on
my -6 in the wingtips, and they work great except that the maximum bulb size
is 55 watts and you can't adjust them down far enough to taxi at night. I also
have my position/strobe lights enclosed in the RMD tips on my -6 and would like
to do the same on the -7. Does anyone know if there is a wingtip kit out
there for the sheared tips that have a PAR 36 reflector and the 100w GE H3 Halogen
bulb, and will also accomodate the strobe/position lights? Duckworth has
a nice system but apparently only for the leading edges. Thanks.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Avery RV Jack Stand Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
The Cessna 170 has cracking problems with the drilled axle so there is a
solid axle they recommend especially for skis!
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Avery RV Jack Stand Kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
>
> Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> > -No!! in my not so humble opinion do not drill them.
> > Send them back and ask Avery about the difference size.
> >
> > Jerry
>
> But if it where mine I would drill them...
>
> Phil
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Adjusting the vertical stab on RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Hello listers,
Those of you who will still talk to me anyway. In my initial flight testing I
found that I had to carry a lot of right rudder to stay in level flight, enough
to make my toes go to sleep after a while. I took a look at my VS and found
that (surprise!) it wasn't straight but was nosed off to the right a bit. I
moved it to the left a bit (3/16") and the rudder situation got better but still
not cured. I want to move it a bit more but I'm not sure how many holes I
can drill in the attachments before I compromise strength. Any suggestions?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
bless those who curse you, pray for those who mistreat you
Luke 6:28, NAS
---------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Landing Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
Look at Bill VonDane's at http://www.creativair.com/ex75-rv/index.htm
and Vince Fraser's at
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Construction%20Notes%20for%20the%20tail%20and%20wings.htm
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - Just cut the hole for the Duckworth light
Pat Hatch wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
> Question for the sheared wingtip guys: I am building a -7 now and am looking
into my options for landing/pulse lights for the wingtips. I prefer not to do
the leading edge system. I have the RMD lights with Bob Haan's wigwag unit
on my -6 in the wingtips, and they work great except that the maximum bulb size
is 55 watts and you can't adjust them down far enough to taxi at night. I also
have my position/strobe lights enclosed in the RMD tips on my -6 and would
like to do the same on the -7. Does anyone know if there is a wingtip kit out
there for the sheared tips that have a PAR 36 reflector and the 100w GE H3 Halogen
bulb, and will also accomodate the strobe/position lights? Duckworth has
a nice system but apparently only for the leading edges. Thanks.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Mike---
I don't know about you guys, but I think that some of us should be
petitioning Van in a big, loud and voluminous way to put RV-3 back out
in a "modern" kit form. It already goes like stink and if you designed
a way to stick a few more hp in the thing, why in the hell would you
need to spend a $million on the Viper jet? Dam*, that little airplane
is fun!--oh, and it does look good!
Boyd.
mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote:
>
>Mike Stewart
>PS, sorry for the late reply, was RV'ing at SWRFI with Falcon Flight. Class
>act those guys. We had a terrific time there. One of my highlights was to
>get Stu to fly my wing in his RV-3. Man what a terrific looking plane. Sexy
>and fast. First RV-3 I have had a chance to really look closely at and fly
>with. Makes me wanna cut off my training wheel, slice off 2 wing bays, can
>the right seat, toss out all non-essential flying crap I have, and go fly.
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting the vertical stab on RV-4 |
22, 2002) at 05/19/2003 11:39:51 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
ever thought of adding a wedge on the rudder?
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Tx.
do not archive
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Boyd,
I'll fly as your wingman on this one... I've been flyin' my RV-4 for
years (and would not let her go willingly) but 95% of the time I'm flyin'
her Solo. And a "New & Improved" RV-3 would certainly be a screamer!
Just give us the briefing, and we'll all put the plan into action!
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Boyd C. Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
>
> Mike---
>
> I don't know about you guys, but I think that some of us should be
> petitioning Van in a big, loud and voluminous way to put RV-3 back out
> in a "modern" kit form. It already goes like stink and if you designed
> a way to stick a few more hp in the thing, why in the hell would you
> need to spend a $million on the Viper jet? Dam*, that little airplane
> is fun!--oh, and it does look good!
>
> Boyd.
>
> mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote:
>
> >
> >Mike Stewart
> >PS, sorry for the late reply, was RV'ing at SWRFI with Falcon Flight.
Class
> >act those guys. We had a terrific time there. One of my highlights was to
> >get Stu to fly my wing in his RV-3. Man what a terrific looking plane.
Sexy
> >and fast. First RV-3 I have had a chance to really look closely at and
fly
> >with. Makes me wanna cut off my training wheel, slice off 2 wing bays,
can
> >the right seat, toss out all non-essential flying crap I have, and go
fly.
> >Do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV Composite Source |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Gunn" <WGUNN@dot.state.tx.us>
I upgraded my RV 4 with an 0-360, Hartzell C/S prop, long gear legs, new
engine mount, cowling, gear leg spats and wheel pants. I got beautifully
made fairings for the fuselage and wheel pant intersections from Gary
Hunter of Gary Hunter Composites. Gary is a pilot and homebuilder as
well as a 28 year expert in composites and crew chief for the Exxon
Flying Tiger. Nice guy too! Contact him at gluegaru@earthlink.net for
any composite needs. Bill Gunn, RV 4 Flying, 1300 + hours.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Big Mistake on the Vertical Stabilizer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Anthony" <bruce.anthony@holidaycompanies.com>
Bet no one has done this before. After a long and really good session in the shop
yesterday, my son and I were finishing up the vertical stabilizer on our RV-9A.
We had been careful and had done a pretty good job bucking the rivets on
the rear spar. Our last task was to put the LP-4 pop rivets in to attach the
spar to the mid-rib. The second to the last rivet went in wrong so I proceeded
to drill it out (I've become good at this). Head came off fine and I drilled
a little more to loosen the shank. Started gently rapping the shank and was
pleased to feel it come out with only a little resistance. Looked inside to
make sure I was done, and to my horror, I saw that I had bent the flange on
the corner of the rib - and the rivet shank was still firmly embedded in the hole.
So now I have a bent flange that I cannot repair without removing the rear
spar - and that means drilling out 74 rivets. I'm going to give it a try.
The worst that can happen is I have to reorder the thing, but this is a major
step backward over a very minor thing.
Words of advice to new builders: 1) Do not rivet when you are tired; 2) Don't
rivet root and tip ribs until you have to - give yourself access to the inside
as long as you can; 3) Even very small details can create very large headaches
- go slow and be careful.
Bruce. Anthony
RV-9A Empennage
Rosemount, MN
Message 16
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| Subject: | 7 to 6 fin and rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
SGkgZ3V5cywNCg0KQ2FuIHRoZSBvbGQgc3R5bGUgUlYtNyBmaW4gYW5kIHJ1ZGRlciBiZSBpbnN0
YWxsZWQgb24gYSBSVi02IHdpdGhvdXQgYSBsb3QNCm9mIG1vZHM/DQoNClRoYW5rcywNCg0KRGF2
ZQ0KUlYtNiAxODAgQy9TDQo
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting the vertical stab on RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Scott: Why don't you just make a new HS to VS attachment plate (I can't
remember what the part number is). I was at Oakdale a few weeks ago and the
guy in the front hangar with a red RV-8, can't remember his name, was making
one to move his VS.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Boyd,
You must know that John Harmon has already upgraded the RV-3 to the Harmon
Rocket I.
An RV-3 plus a Rocket conversion would be something to see and fly!!!
Tom Gummo
APV, HR-II, N561FS
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Boyd,
>
> I'll fly as your wingman on this one... I've been flyin' my RV-4 for
> years (and would not let her go willingly) but 95% of the time I'm flyin'
> her Solo. And a "New & Improved" RV-3 would certainly be a screamer!
>
> Just give us the briefing, and we'll all put the plan into action!
>
> Chuck
>
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Boyd C. Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com.Netscape/7.0>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
> >
> > Mike---
> >
> > I don't know about you guys, but I think that some of us should be
> > petitioning Van in a big, loud and voluminous way to put RV-3 back out
> > in a "modern" kit form. It already goes like stink and if you designed
> > a way to stick a few more hp in the thing, why in the hell would you
> > need to spend a $million on the Viper jet? Dam*, that little airplane
> > is fun!--oh, and it does look good!
> >
> > Boyd.
> >
> > mstewart@qa.butler.com wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >Mike Stewart
> > >PS, sorry for the late reply, was RV'ing at SWRFI with Falcon Flight.
> Class
> > >act those guys. We had a terrific time there. One of my highlights was
to
> > >get Stu to fly my wing in his RV-3. Man what a terrific looking plane.
> Sexy
> > >and fast. First RV-3 I have had a chance to really look closely at and
> fly
> > >with. Makes me wanna cut off my training wheel, slice off 2 wing bays,
> can
> > >the right seat, toss out all non-essential flying crap I have, and go
> fly.
> > >Do not archive
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Oil cooler hose question |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
I'm interested in the pros and cons of using firesleeve on the hoses to and
from the oil cooler. Anybody got any opinions, or better yet, good reasons
for or against. Seems like all the installations I see use bare hoses.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
That's a petition I would sign in a heartbeat, even if I would have to learn
to fly with the training wheel on the back.
Terry
RV-8A finishing and finishing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Mike---
I don't know about you guys, but I think that some of us should be
petitioning Van in a big, loud and voluminous way to put RV-3 back out
in a "modern" kit form. It already goes like stink and if you designed
a way to stick a few more hp in the thing, why in the hell would you
need to spend a $million on the Viper jet? Dam*, that little airplane
is fun!--oh, and it does look good!
Boyd.
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@earthlink.net>
I totally agree. Hell, I'm afraid that they will take them off the market
*again* before I can buy one!
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
>
> Mike---
>
> I don't know about you guys, but I think that some of us should be
> petitioning Van in a big, loud and voluminous way to put RV-3 back out
> in a "modern" kit form.
>
> Boyd.
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall hinges RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Here are the shim sizes I've calculated using the measured thickness of my cowling.
The idea is to line up the metal surface with the cowling surface.
Top - none
Sides - .016
Bottom - .025
As the top is where you have the conflict with the retainer rivets, I'd fit the
two top hinge lengths along with the baggage door sealing/reinforcing strip so
you don't have to work around the shop heads of the retaining rivets later.
I found the retaining rivets to be very useful.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 23
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|
22, 2002) at 05/19/2003 12:41:36 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Well I think that Van should improve on the 3 in these ways.
1. include the new composite cowl. (will accept bigger engines and get rid
of the cowl cheeks)
2. allow the use of the 8 wings. (this will get rid of the so called weak
wing)
3. put a nose gear on the thing. (this will piss off the hard liners lol
lol) and get vans some new orders.
4. rename it to the rv 3 1/2 A (modified)
what do Ya'll thank.
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting the vertical stab on RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello listers,
> Those of you who will still talk to me anyway. In my initial flight testing
I
> found that I had to carry a lot of right rudder to stay in level flight,
> enough to make my toes go to sleep after a while. I took a look at my VS and
> found that (surprise!) it wasn't straight but was nosed off to the right a
> bit. I moved it to the left a bit (3/16") and the rudder situation got better
> but still not cured. I want to move it a bit more but I'm not sure how many
> holes I can drill in the attachments before I compromise strength. Any
> suggestions?
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> bless those who curse you, pray for those who mistreat you
> Luke 6:28, NAS
>
>
I would quit while I was ahead and use a tab for the rest of the required
rudder.
Most sources say you can=B9t quite offset the stab enough to do the whole job.
Of course it depends on the individual quirks and twists of your plane.
DLW
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
YES, now you're talking. Sign me up for one of those, I've been considering
doing an RV-3 anyway.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 309 hrs
www.rv-8.com
> I don't know about you guys, but I think that some of us should be
> petitioning Van in a big, loud and voluminous way to put RV-3 back out
> in a "modern" kit form. It already goes like stink and if you designed
> a way to stick a few more hp in the thing, why in the hell would you
> need to spend a $million on the Viper jet? Dam*, that little airplane
> is fun!--oh, and it does look good!
>
> Boyd.
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Oil Cooler In/Out question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Hi All....I have a Niagera (sp?) cooler from vans....doesn't have an in our
out marking on the case....seems to me it really doesnt matter as it would
work the same no matter which side it went into...or am I over simplifying
the problem? Anyway...any insight would be appreciated. Oh..also I assume
on the engine the cooled oil goes in the top oil fitting and the hot rolls
out the bottom fitting?
Thanks...
Kurt in OKC
Hanging an engine...finally.....
Do Not Archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: 7 to 6 fin and rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
Subject: RV-List: 7 to 6 fin and rudder
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe"
<David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
>
>
SGkgZ3V5cywNCg0KQ2FuIHRoZSBvbGQgc3R5bGUgUlYtNyBmaW4gYW5kIHJ1ZGRlciBiZSBpbnN0
>
YWxsZWQgb24gYSBSVi02IHdpdGhvdXQgYSBsb3QNCm9mIG1vZHM/DQoNClRoYW5rcywNCg0KRGF2
> ZQ0KUlYtNiAxODAgQy9TDQo
>
>
I'm not sure what language that is?? could there be a clue in the subject
box?
Nah, Its definately not Finnish!
Oh hell I'd rudder not guess. {g-]! (sorry!)
Anyhow I can't imagine anyone using sentences that long and not coming up
for air somewhere in the middle.
Maybe if I put http://www. in front of it it will take me to the far end of
the web.
Aha! it might be a Nordic surname.
Its a good thing I have the email because I tried to pronounce it out loud
just now and my toung broke.
Bla bla bla bla,
Jeeez Jim get a life, -RV6-a - Wiring, thats my excuse and I'm stickin to
it!.
Jim in kelowna do not archive
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Does anyone know which autopilot is in the RV-10 prototype? Just wondering, I
see from the pictures that there is a servo on the elevator push tube.
do not archive
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler In/Out question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Kurt,
There is no in/out direction on the cooler itself.
You want hot oil coming in at the BOTTOM of the cooler and exiting the TOP
of the cooler. This minimizes any air bubble that might form in the cooler.
I guarantee this is already in the archives...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV6AOKC@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler In/Out question...
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
> Hi All....I have a Niagera (sp?) cooler from vans....doesn't have an in
our
> out marking on the case....seems to me it really doesnt matter as it would
> work the same no matter which side it went into...or am I over simplifying
> the problem? Anyway...any insight would be appreciated. Oh..also I
assume
> on the engine the cooled oil goes in the top oil fitting and the hot rolls
> out the bottom fitting?
>
> Thanks...
>
> Kurt in OKC
>
> Hanging an engine...finally.....
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Oil cooler hose question |
tests=AWL,BAYES_01,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,
USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Harry,
I used it, it is certainly safer. Good for open flame for 5 minutes. Also my
hoses run directly under cylinders to oil cooler mounted on fwd baffle which
makes it more necessary IMHO.
I would have used fire sleeve in any case. It is NOT cheap. But is a good
safety measure and will cool down the lines.
I just ordered sleeve to go around my bare fuel lines FWF to help reduce
boiling lines I am getting at above 11K' flying.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6@aol.com [mailto:HCRV6@aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler hose question
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
I'm interested in the pros and cons of using firesleeve on the hoses to and
from the oil cooler. Anybody got any opinions, or better yet, good reasons
for or against. Seems like all the installations I see use bare hoses.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: new rv-3 design |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
2. is already done. It's called an RV-3B and is sold by Van's Aircraft!
Finn
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>
>
>Well I think that Van should improve on the 3 in these ways.
>
>1. include the new composite cowl. (will accept bigger engines and get rid
>of the cowl cheeks)
>
>2. allow the use of the 8 wings. (this will get rid of the so called weak
>wing)
>
>3. put a nose gear on the thing. (this will piss off the hard liners lol
>lol) and get vans some new orders.
>
>4. rename it to the rv 3 1/2 A (modified)
>
>what do Ya'll thank.
>
>Glenn Williams
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Big Mistake on the Vertical Stabilizer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Rather than drill the entire spar free, drill one side from the mid-rib
down and also the bottom rib on that side. Then you can lift the skin
up enough to reach inside and get the rivet tail and rebend the flange.
Then put in the LP-4 and finally re-rivet the edges of the skin. At
least this way you risk less holes by drilling out fewer rivets.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - slowly getting all the fuselage structure
painted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Anthony
Subject: RV-List: Big Mistake on the Vertical Stabilizer
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Anthony"
<bruce.anthony@holidaycompanies.com>
Bet no one has done this before. After a long and really good session
in the shop yesterday, my son and I were finishing up the vertical
stabilizer on our RV-9A. We had been careful and had done a pretty good
job bucking the rivets on the rear spar. Our last task was to put the
LP-4 pop rivets in to attach the spar to the mid-rib. The second to the
last rivet went in wrong so I proceeded to drill it out (I've become
good at this). Head came off fine and I drilled a little more to loosen
the shank. Started gently rapping the shank and was pleased to feel it
come out with only a little resistance. Looked inside to make sure I
was done, and to my horror, I saw that I had bent the flange on the
corner of the rib - and the rivet shank was still firmly embedded in the
hole. So now I have a bent flange that I cannot repair without removing
the rear spar - and that means drilling out 74 rivets. I'm going to
give it a try. The worst that can happen is I have to reorder the !
thing, but this is a major step backward over a very minor thing.
Words of advice to new builders: 1) Do not rivet when you are tired;
2) Don't rivet root and tip ribs until you have to - give yourself
access to the inside as long as you can; 3) Even very small details can
create very large headaches - go slow and be careful.
Bruce. Anthony
RV-9A Empennage
Rosemount, MN
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler hose question) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <mstewart@qa.butler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil cooler hose question
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Harry,
<snip> [Fire sleeve ] is a good safety measure and will cool down the
lines.
>
> I just ordered sleeve to go around my bare fuel lines FWF to help reduce
> boiling lines I am getting at above 11K' flying.
>
> Mike Stewart
An EAA chapter member with Lancair with 180hp engine with Air Flow
Performance fuel injection system (on Texas Gulf Coast) is fighting what we
believe is a "fuel boiling/vaporizing" problem - His engine starts running
rough (lean) on ground BEFORE he ever gets airborne, and for next 15' or so
until he has had good, cool, airflow through the engine compartment for a
while.
He has firesleeve on his braided fancy line from firewall to AFP fuel
distribution manifold (I think I described that correctly) but his 4
stainless steel lines that go to the 4 cylinder injectors are not covered.
Our suggestion was that he take some 1/8 inch thick FiberFrax ceramic
blanket and wrap all fuel lines and put Firesleeve over the FiberFrax. Our
feeling is that Firesleeve alone is not intended to "insulate" from normal
heat, at least it is not designed to insulate as much as FiberFrax. It is
to keep flames and flame temps away from lines. (Granted, that is
"insulation" - but it isn't the same.)
We figure the only down side to this mod MIGHT be that his fuel lines may
not cool down as fast after shutdown and maybe he'll get some heat soaking
back up from the cylinders/injectors into the fuel distribution lines and
boil some fuel and therefore he may have to wait longer after a refueling
stop to start without a "hot start" problem.
- In any case, we figure trading a "possible" 'hot start' problem,
which is not life or engine threatening, is much better than taking off with
a fuel injection system that is spitting 'vapor' instead of 'liquid fuel'
into cylinders and thus causing lean/rough running - which could lead to
detonation and loss of all power. So far, he's only had a 'partial power'
loss on takeoff. Spark plugs and top cyl inspection show no signs of
detonation - so far.
David Carter
Message 34
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"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | iPAQ and Accessories for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I have an iPAQ 3970 FOR SALE - with the following accessories:
256 MB SD memory card
CF Sleeve
CF 56K modem
CF 10MB LAN card
External GPS for moving map systems
More info here if you're interested:
http://www.vondane.com/forsale/index.htm
I am selling because I am looking to buy a Garmin 196!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
Message 35
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vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
I ourchased Vans Dimmer switches for my RV8. Thes come without the needed
Knobs. The instuctions say that Radio Shack carries the knobs for the 1/8 "
shaft. I have tried 5 Radio Shacks and online,but no luck. Does anyone know
where I can get these.
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: new rv-3 design |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 11:40 2003-05-19 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>
>
>Well I think that Van should improve on the 3 in these ways.
>
>1. include the new composite cowl. (will accept bigger engines and get rid
>of the cowl cheeks)
>
>2. allow the use of the 8 wings. (this will get rid of the so called weak
>wing)
>
>3. put a nose gear on the thing. (this will piss off the hard liners lol
>lol) and get vans some new orders.
>
>4. rename it to the rv 3 1/2 A (modified)
>
>what do Ya'll thank.
>
>Glenn Williams
>do not archive
I think you had "Flame-Me Crispies" for breakfast this morning...
Actually I believe the RV-3B update has the updated center section and wing
spars comparable to the 7/8/9. The RV-8 wing on the 3 would make a sail
plane out of it.
Nose gear? Ain't goin' there..
MGM
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: RV Composite Source |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4@alltel.net>
Just out of curiosity, how much diffrence did your changes make on
the planes performance.
Craig Hiers
Moultrie,GA.
> I upgraded my RV 4 with an 0-360, Hartzell C/S prop, long gear legs, new
> engine mount, cowling, gear leg spats and wheel pants. I got beautifully
> made fairings for the fuselage and wheel pant intersections from Gary
> Hunter of Gary Hunter Composites. Gary is a pilot and homebuilder as
> well as a 28 year expert in composites and crew chief for the Exxon
> Flying Tiger. Nice guy too! Contact him at gluegaru@earthlink.net for
> any composite needs. Bill Gunn, RV 4 Flying, 1300 + hours.
>
>
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
I think it is a TruTrak of some vintage with altitude hold.
At one point I **THOUGHT** there was a picture showing the instrument
layout. Now that seems to be missing. Hmmmm.... Maybe they are "enhancing"
it.
I do recall thinking that they would probably end up with more "toys" on a
cruising plane like this.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 1:00 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-10 Autopilot
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
> Does anyone know which autopilot is in the RV-10 prototype? Just
> wondering, I see from the pictures that there is a servo on the
> elevator push tube.
>
> do not archive
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Buffing out polyurethane |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
Thanks for the helpful input about my compressor/HVLP capacity question. Got another
question...the paint dealer near my house stocks Dupont Imron polyurethane
and Sherwin Williams Genesis acrylic urethane paints (note: he says the Genesis
line is replacing the Sunfire line, but is basically the same thing for
those familiar with Sunfire). I'm trying to decide which brand to go with, and
one question I have is about the possibility of buffing out runs or rough edges
in the finished paint. This is for a single stage paint, BTW...not a clear
coat. What I've heard is that the Genesis/Sunfire series is not quite as durable
as the Imron, but is easier to buff out imperfections. I'm leaning toward
the Imron but wondering if anyone has tried buffing it out, and whether they
were successful or not?
I'm not uptight about getting a highly polished finish but my paint scheme has
a stripe running down the leading edge of the wings. So I'm curious to know if
I use Imron, will I be able to buff out the edge of the stripe such that the
airflow will not be disturbed? Has anyone done this with Imron?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: new rv-3 design |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
I think the new RV-3 cowls are epoxy. A friend is building one, and
he has to keep on borrowing my -8 preview plans and instructions
because he is getting so many parts that have been redone to be
similar to the newer designs, but the -3 plans and instructions
haven't been updated yet.
The RV-3 fuselage is so narrow that the cowl cheeks will always be
needed, unless you go for an inline engine.
My friend has the RV-3B quickbuild wings, and those new spars are a
thing of beauty, just like the ones on the -8.
Kevin Horton
At 1:23 PM -0400 5/19/03, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>2. is already done. It's called an RV-3B and is sold by Van's Aircraft!
>
>Finn
>
>glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>>
>>
>>Well I think that Van should improve on the 3 in these ways.
>>
>>1. include the new composite cowl. (will accept bigger engines and get rid
>>of the cowl cheeks)
>>
>>2. allow the use of the 8 wings. (this will get rid of the so called weak
>>wing)
>>
>>3. put a nose gear on the thing. (this will piss off the hard liners lol
>>lol) and get vans some new orders.
>>
>>4. rename it to the rv 3 1/2 A (modified)
>>
>>what do Ya'll thank.
>>
>>Glenn Williams
>>do not archive
>>
>>
> >
> >
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Dimmer switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
> I ourchased Vans Dimmer switches for my RV8. Thes come without the
> needed
> Knobs. The instuctions say that Radio Shack carries the knobs for the
> 1/8 "
> shaft. I have tried 5 Radio Shacks and online,but no luck. Does anyone
> know
> where I can get these.
> Thanks
> Al Grajek
> RV8
http://www.digikey.com Catalog -> Keyboards-Networks -> Knobs
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=listcategory&&categoryid=81
Jim
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Dimmer switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: larry@bowenaero.com
Got mine from http://mouser.com
-LB
Quoting Al Grajek <algrajek@msn.com>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
>
> I ourchased Vans Dimmer switches for my RV8. Thes come without the needed
> Knobs. The instuctions say that Radio Shack carries the knobs for the 1/8 "
> shaft. I have tried 5 Radio Shacks and online,but no luck. Does anyone know
> where I can get these.
> Thanks
> Al Grajek
> RV8
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler hose q |
uestion)
tests=BAYES_00,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,QUOTED_EMAIL_TEXT,
USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
David,
I feel your assessment is correct.
I would add that the cool down is not an issue given the AFP by-pass valve
for cooling down the lines before the hot start.
Mine runs rough after a landing and hot taxi. Fuel pressure drops from 19 to
11 ish, then I put the boost on and it goes away. Sounds like your friend
has the same problem. I am surprised he gets it with the pump on though.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: David Carter [mailto:dcarter@datarecall.net]
Subject: Insulating fuel lines FWF (was Re: RV-List: Oil cooler hose
question)
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <mstewart@qa.butler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil cooler hose question
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Harry,
<snip> [Fire sleeve ] is a good safety measure and will cool down the
lines.
>
> I just ordered sleeve to go around my bare fuel lines FWF to help reduce
> boiling lines I am getting at above 11K' flying.
>
> Mike Stewart
An EAA chapter member with Lancair with 180hp engine with Air Flow
Performance fuel injection system (on Texas Gulf Coast) is fighting what we
believe is a "fuel boiling/vaporizing" problem - His engine starts running
rough (lean) on ground BEFORE he ever gets airborne, and for next 15' or so
until he has had good, cool, airflow through the engine compartment for a
while.
He has firesleeve on his braided fancy line from firewall to AFP fuel
distribution manifold (I think I described that correctly) but his 4
stainless steel lines that go to the 4 cylinder injectors are not covered.
Our suggestion was that he take some 1/8 inch thick FiberFrax ceramic
blanket and wrap all fuel lines and put Firesleeve over the FiberFrax. Our
feeling is that Firesleeve alone is not intended to "insulate" from normal
heat, at least it is not designed to insulate as much as FiberFrax. It is
to keep flames and flame temps away from lines. (Granted, that is
"insulation" - but it isn't the same.)
We figure the only down side to this mod MIGHT be that his fuel lines may
not cool down as fast after shutdown and maybe he'll get some heat soaking
back up from the cylinders/injectors into the fuel distribution lines and
boil some fuel and therefore he may have to wait longer after a refueling
stop to start without a "hot start" problem.
- In any case, we figure trading a "possible" 'hot start' problem,
which is not life or engine threatening, is much better than taking off with
a fuel injection system that is spitting 'vapor' instead of 'liquid fuel'
into cylinders and thus causing lean/rough running - which could lead to
detonation and loss of all power. So far, he's only had a 'partial power'
loss on takeoff. Spark plugs and top cyl inspection show no signs of
detonation - so far.
David Carter
Message 44
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| Subject: | Real Long-New Braunfels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
Message below...
<<<<<<<<<<<< SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
There was one of those fancy-smancy ones, an RV-6A, out of Florida. You
know;
with the polished firewall, carbon fiber plenum, color coordinated engine
accessories and full panel. It was real nice, but as I told him, my
airplane is over 100 pounds lighter. You have to cling to something for
your own self respect. I also critisized him, to his face, for being
obsessive compulsive.
<<<<<<<<<<<< SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Listers,
Its me, the "obsessive compulsive" guy in the "fancy-smancy" RV-6A from
Florida. I keep reading the above message to tell if this was meant as a
joke or not... I can't tell, but we all love eachother, so I'm sure it was
not meant to be ugly.
First, my plane is a bit heavy (1064), but it is very clean, and that is
very important for speed!! We cruise at 202 (at 24/24 @ 6000 ft) which is
faster than most (and faster than the person who posted this note by 20+ MPH
according to his web site). Second, we don't baby it... and have entered the
AirVenture Cup race from Kitty Hawk to Oskosh this coming June... (so we can
probably drop the obsessive compuslive crap).
As for the weight of our airplanes, we all do what we want/need to
do...sometimes to please our wives. By the way, Razzmatazz may be getting
heavier!!! Today my wife stated emphatically, "we must add a Strikefinder
before the summer rains come every day"). I don't care about the 4 lbs, but
I do care about the $4k!!! (no way!)
There were very many nice planes this week , and many nice RV's (including
Larry Pardue's very nice 6)...but only one won the the first annual "Tony
Bingelis Memorial Award for Best of Show, all types".
jim
tampa
6A
Razzmatazz
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Good job Scott!
Here I taught I musta took the wrong tourn at Al-ba-kerk-ee! Gee, what
a Ma-roon I am.
Actually, Baba-Louie called Quick Draw McGraw Senior Quicks Draw. I
thought that all the M.E.K. over the years didn't effect me....Kabong!!!
J.D.
Do I even have to suggest not to archive this???
Message 46
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| Subject: | HVLP guns with a compressor? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Parallel "might "work but not series. You're looking for more volume not
> pressure.
>
> Dave,
What's the difference? We are not talking about voltage and current capacity
here. As far as a gas (air) is concerned, doesn't matter if you connect the
tanks in series or parallel if no check valves are used, but I don't see why
anybody would want to connect the tanks like a string of sausage links!
As far as results with HVLP vs conventional guns, I agree with you and Sam.
In the last 20 years I have painted 3 cars using a conventional Taiwan
DeVilbis clone and achieved much better results with the conventional as
compared with my hangar mate's turbine driven HVLP which I used on my 6A at
his recommendation to reduce over-spray. The first surface I tried was an
orange-peel disaster which I ended up stripping and re-doing, but this time
using half as much more reducer (slow) than the recommended quantity. The
trouble with the turbine is that the air output gets quite hot which makes
the reducer evaporate-off before the color has time to flow,-hence, orange
peel. I ended up powering-up the turbine a good 15 minutes before spraying,
to ensure the air temperature was stabilized. (I measured a 15 degree F rise
on an 80 degree day!).--But I still got mild orange-peel and disappointed
with the results. The hot days didn't help!
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: HVLP guns with a compressor? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
On Mon May 19 15:39:38 2003, Elsa & Henry wrote :
>[ ... snip ... ]
>As far as results with HVLP vs conventional guns, I agree with you and Sam.
>In the last 20 years I have painted 3 cars using a conventional Taiwan
>DeVilbis clone and achieved much better results with the conventional as
>compared with my hangar mate's turbine driven HVLP which I used on my 6A at
>his recommendation to reduce over-spray. The first surface I tried was an
>orange-peel disaster which I ended up stripping and re-doing, but this time
>using half as much more reducer (slow) than the recommended quantity. The
>trouble with the turbine is that the air output gets quite hot which makes
>the reducer evaporate-off before the color has time to flow,-hence, orange
>peel. I ended up powering-up the turbine a good 15 minutes before spraying,
>to ensure the air temperature was stabilized. (I measured a 15 degree F rise
>on an 80 degree day!).--But I still got mild orange-peel and disappointed
>with the results. The hot days didn't help!
This may be a late-in-the-workday false memory but I seem to remember someone
saying that they had helped mitigate the turbine heat problem by dropping a
coil of air hose into a bucket of cold water just after the turbine output,
but before the remainder of the hose leading to the gun. I vaguely remember
hearing this at a paint workshop at Sun-N-Fun two years ago .. but .. I could
well be wrong. :)
In fact, I seem to remember them saying they kept a gallon jug of water in
the freezer so that a short time before they started to paint, they could plop
the frozen jug into the bucket with their coil of hose ... and when done could
just put the (now partially thawed) jug back in the freezer to prepare for
the next day's painting.
However, a day of hacking out Java code might have just *thinking* that I
heard of this technique somewhere. So ... unless someone wants to come along
and confirm that this is a valid approach, please DO NOT ARCHIVE.
-- Dwight
RV-7 / wings / QB fuse on order
Message 48
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| Subject: | Buffing out Imron |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Mark,
Yes you can buff out Imron or just about any other finish with the right
compounds and polishes.Time and cure rates are the key factors here.
A suggestion would be to use 3M's "Fine Line" tape when you mask your
edges. It's a film type tape and doesn't leave a rough edge like you
get using just masking tape alone. The finish build is even and sharp
when the tape is pulled..
Put your first color down, unmask, mask off right on the edge line and
shoot the next. The edge build up is so equal that you probably won't
have to buff your color break lines at all.
We generally outline all our breaks with 1/4" Fine Line, then back mask
with masking tape, then paper or plastic overmask.
A reminder, even with accelerator added, Imron ( as with most
single-stage finishes) likes to be left alone (unmasked) for up to 48
hours, depending on WX, in order to cure enough as not to leave tape
tracks in the previous color.
Hope this helps...
Jim D.
Message 49
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| Subject: | Painting question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
Well, my RV-8 is finally in the paint shop and things are coming along
nicely. I'm wondering whether or not I should have the many screws that
attach the fiberglass parts painted to match their surrounding surfaces.
I used all stainless screws (and countersunk washers in a couple of
places) to attach these parts (wingtips, spinner, wheel pants, upper
intersection fairings, wing root gap fairings & empennage fairing), so
polishing the screw heads isn't out of the question either. I
definitely don't want to leave the screw heads completely untreated, as
their natural finish is pretty dull.
To paint (and then have to worry about possible chipping in the future)
or to polish? That is the question... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
Message 50
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| Subject: | Real Long-New Braunfels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
>
>Message below...
><<<<<<<<<<<< SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
>There was one of those fancy-smancy ones, an RV-6A, out of Florida. You
>know;
>with the polished firewall, carbon fiber plenum, color coordinated engine
>accessories and full panel. It was real nice, but as I told him, my
>airplane is over 100 pounds lighter. You have to cling to something for
>your own self respect. I also critisized him, to his face, for being
>obsessive compulsive.
><<<<<<<<<<<< SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
>
>Listers,
>Its me, the "obsessive compulsive" guy in the "fancy-smancy" RV-6A from
>Florida. I keep reading the above message to tell if this was meant as a
>joke or not... I can't tell, but we all love eachother, so I'm sure it was
>not meant to be ugly.
No Jim, it certainly wasn't meant to be ugly. I thought you would have
understood my sense of humor from our conversation, although you probably
didn't remember which one was me. It is a beautiful airplane.
>
>First, my plane is a bit heavy (1064), but it is very clean, and that is
>very important for speed!! We cruise at 202 (at 24/24 @ 6000 ft) which is
>faster than most (and faster than the person who posted this note by 20+ MPH
>according to his web site). Second, we don't baby it... and have entered the
>AirVenture Cup race from Kitty Hawk to Oskosh this coming June... (so we can
>probably drop the obsessive compuslive crap).
I apologize on the weight. That happens when I rely on memory. I
thought your airplane was around 1150. If it is 1064, that is remarkable
and is about what mine weighs.
You cruise at 202 what? If it is 202 MPH, that is the same maximum
cruise mine has. I don't normally cruise that fast, preferring power
settings of around 65 percent. My web site states the top cruise is a
little over 200 MPH (175 knots).
If you cruise at 202 knots, my hat is sincerely off to you again.
>
>As for the weight of our airplanes, we all do what we want/need to
>do...sometimes to please our wives. By the way, Razzmatazz may be getting
>heavier!!! Today my wife stated emphatically, "we must add a Strikefinder
>before the summer rains come every day"). I don't care about the 4 lbs, but
>I do care about the $4k!!! (no way!)
>
>There were very many nice planes this week , and many nice RV's (including
>Larry Pardue's very nice 6)...but only one won the the first annual "Tony
>Bingelis Memorial Award for Best of Show, all types".
>
>jim
>tampa
>6A
>Razzmatazz
I do greatly admire your airplane. I am the one who was asking how you
got the wonderful effect on the gray paint on the wing tips, but geeze,
you don't expect me to just come out and tell you you have a much better
airplane than me, do you? I have to go looking for some area where mine
might compare.
Seriously, this is one reason I hesitate to post these things. I don't
like to self edit and I do like to be frank and a bit funny and
tongue-in-cheek. If it didn't come across right, that is my failure and
I apologize.
Congratulations on winning, as I expected you would.
How do you think Jim Bede feels about my remarks?
Larry Pardue
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: HVLP guns with a compressor? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Dwight Frye wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
> This may be a late-in-the-workday false memory but I seem to remember someone
> saying that they had helped mitigate the turbine heat problem by dropping a
> coil of air hose into a bucket of cold water just after the turbine output,
> but before the remainder of the hose leading to the gun. I vaguely remember
> hearing this at a paint workshop at Sun-N-Fun two years ago .. but .. I could
> well be wrong. :)
>
> In fact, I seem to remember them saying they kept a gallon jug of water in
> the freezer so that a short time before they started to paint, they could plop
> the frozen jug into the bucket with their coil of hose ... and when done could
> just put the (now partially thawed) jug back in the freezer to prepare for
> the next day's painting.
>
> However, a day of hacking out Java code might have just *thinking* that I
> heard of this technique somewhere. So ... unless someone wants to come along
> and confirm that this is a valid approach, please DO NOT ARCHIVE.
Since the only HVLP gun I have used is one designed to be used with a
conventional compressor, I can't comment on the effectiveness of the ice
bath on cooling turbine air.
But.....it sounds like a great idea for the air supplying the fresh air
respirator hood! I remember how refreshing the cool air was coming into
the hood before the compressor had time to heat up. Having cool air in
the hood all the time would remove another annoyance to an already
demanding job.
Of course, the compressor supplying the hood needs to be located away
from the spray booth.....but everybody already knew that. I used a
little 10 gallon oil-less compressor for the hood; loud but effective.
By the way, it may have been my site where some have seen the three air
tanks hooked in ser.....or was it parallel....in order to increase the
reserve of my little 20 gal compressor. While the tanks definitely
helped, I still would recommend spending the bucks on a 60 gal
compressor. When the paint for our plane costs over $1000, and the best
results are achieved by spraying large surfaces in one session with no
interruptions so a wet edge can be maintained, the big compressor seems
like a good value to me.
Sam Buchanan
Message 52
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--> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com
On Mon, 19 May 2003 13:32:18 -0600 Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
>
> Good job Scott!
> Here I taught I musta took the wrong tourn at Al-ba-kerk-ee! Gee,
> what
> a Ma-roon I am.
>
> Actually, Baba-Louie called Quick Draw McGraw Senior Quicks Draw. I
>
> thought that all the M.E.K. over the years didn't effect
> me....Kabong!!!
>
> J.D.
> Do I even have to suggest not to archive this???
Yes you do.
But you have to use the proper words.
They are "do not archive".
You didn't, so you did.
Cecil
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Painting question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
>
>Well, my RV-8 is finally in the paint shop and things are coming along
>nicely. I'm wondering whether or not I should have the many screws that
>attach the fiberglass parts painted to match their surrounding surfaces.
> I used all stainless screws (and countersunk washers in a couple of
>places) to attach these parts (wingtips, spinner, wheel pants, upper
>intersection fairings, wing root gap fairings & empennage fairing), so
>polishing the screw heads isn't out of the question either. I
>definitely don't want to leave the screw heads completely untreated, as
>their natural finish is pretty dull.
>
>To paint (and then have to worry about possible chipping in the future)
>or to polish? That is the question... :-)
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>RV-8 N118KB
>
Paint the screws that will most likely never see a screwdriver again...like
the tank attach screws. The hardware used to attach fairings and inspection
covers, WILL get abused. Paint them if you don't mind chips and dings.
Otherwise, no one will notice them au naturel. A plane with painted
fasteners on inspection panels with no chips or signs of removal is a plane
that I don't want to fly in! I use stainless screws for most of my fairings
and cover plates and I think they look just peachy. Oh, nylon washers under
the screw heads will protect your paint. Countersunk washers are also great
for the flush screws.
My two cents on the matter.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
341 hrs.
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: new rv-3 design |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Lets see......
1. If you make the cowl without cheeks, the cockpit has to be wider to fit
the "bigger" engines/cowl combo.
2. You could use a modified -4 wing.
3. "P.Off" is not quite a good enough reason to go tri gear,
4. Lets see..... Except for the tri gear take a look at HRI, single seat BUT
if you really want to go fast consider the HRIII.
Dang... That means ya gotta do the lay out and jig work, measure & drill all
dem holes, adjust and build to fit. iffen ya'll aint sawed the HRIII yet,
use is in fir a rare treat. Betcha it'll be on display at Bakersfield BBQ on
the 31st of this month. See ya there. Do Not Archive. KABONG (GBA)
----- Original Message -----
From: <glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com>
> Well I think that Van should improve on the 3 in these ways.
>
> 1. include the new composite cowl. (will accept bigger engines and get rid
> of the cowl cheeks)
>
> 2. allow the use of the 8 wings. (this will get rid of the so called weak
> wing)
>
> 3. put a nose gear on the thing. (this will piss off the hard liners lol
> lol) and get vans some new orders.
>
> 4. rename it to the rv 3 1/2 A (modified)
>
> what do Ya'll thank.
>
> Glenn Williams
Message 55
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Whoa, I can't let that go unchallenged. I see no reason to insult the
Navion;-) The comparison should be to the Rangemaster, or Rangemutation as
we canopy drivers refer to it. They too screwed up a perfectly good design
with a fastback and door. We barely claim it as kin and treat it like a
red-headed step-child as I'm sure the 2-seat RV'ers will with the -10.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
Please do not archive
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Roger Embree <rembree@sympatico.ca>
>
>
> Looks like a scaled down Navion with a turtledeck to me.
>
> do not archive
>
> Roger Embree
> RV4 C-GIRH
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Painting question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
Brian Denk wrote:
>Paint the screws that will most likely never see a screwdriver again...like the
tank attach screws.
>
Agreed. Those will be painted in place and hopefully never removed again.
>The hardware used to attach fairings and inspection covers, WILL get abused.
Paint them if you don't mind chips and dings. Otherwise, no one will notice them
au naturel.
>
You think? I can't seem to summon a convincing image of how
inconspicuous the untreated screw heads will be. That said, I
definitely don't want to live with chips & dings, so it seems like
painting is out. I had some fantasy of being 'really careful' in
removing/installing painted screws, but that's probably just self-delusion.
>A plane with painted fasteners on inspection panels with no chips or signs of
removal is a plane that I don't want to fly in!
>
Agreed!!
>I use stainless screws for most of my fairings and cover plates and I think they
look just peachy. Oh, nylon washers under the screw heads will protect your
paint. Countersunk washers are also great for the flush screws.
>
>
Do you have any close-up pics of untreated stainless screws installed in
your painted RV?
Ken
Message 57
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Dang..... & I thought only the Beechcraft guys were going after each other
with such vigor. Yea I'm talking about the "V" tail guys but if you really
want to start something call a Sierra, a Musketeer....... 8+) Is it OK to
refer to the L-17 as a Navion ? (Please note I did not call the L-17 a
birddog, only made that mistake once. Got it from both sides on that one.)
KABONG (GBA) Do Not Archive.
> Whoa, I can't let that go unchallenged. I see no reason to insult the
> Navion;-) The comparison should be to the Rangemaster, or Rangemutation as
> we canopy drivers refer to it. They too screwed up a perfectly good design
> with a fastback and door. We barely claim it as kin and treat it like a
> red-headed step-child as I'm sure the 2-seat RV'ers will with the -10.
Message 58
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|
| Subject: | Real Long-New Braunfels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
Ooops,
I said 1064 pounds and it is 1154 pounds.
Sorry. A 100 pound brain fart.
jim
Tampa
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> SNIP
>First, my plane is a bit heavy (1064), but it is very clean, and that is
>very important for speed!!
I apologize on the weight. That happens when I rely on memory. I
thought your airplane was around 1150. If it is 1064, that is remarkable
and is about what mine weighs.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> SNIP
Message 59
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| Subject: | RE: RV-10 Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
It is indeed a TruTrack - text is below the top fuselage
picture:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-10int6.htm
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
<james@nextupventures.com
<mailto:james@nextupventures.com?subjectRE:%20RV-10%20Autopilot&replyto
200305191813.h4JIDCc11668@matronics.com> >
I think it is a TruTrak of some vintage with altitude hold.
At one point I **THOUGHT** there was a picture showing the
instrument
layout. Now that seems to be missing. Hmmmm.... Maybe they are
"enhancing"
it.
I do recall thinking that they would probably end up with more
"toys" on a
cruising plane like this.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com?subjectRE:%20RV-10%20Autopil
ot&replyto200305191813.h4JIDCc11668@matronics.com>
> [mailto:HYPERLINK
"mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com?subjectRE:%20RV-10%20Autopil
ot&replyto200305191813.h4JIDCc11668@matronics.com"owner-rv-list-server@
matronics.com <mailto:HYPERLINK > ]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 1:00 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com?subjectRE:%20RV-10%20Autopilot&replyto20
0305191813.h4JIDCc11668@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-10 Autopilot
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com
<mailto:pat_hatch@msn.com?subjectRE:%20RV-10%20Autopilot&replyto200305
191813.h4JIDCc11668@matronics.com> >
>
> Does anyone know which autopilot is in the RV-10 prototype?
Just
> wondering, I see from the pictures that there is a servo on
the
> elevator push tube.
>
> do not archive
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
>
>
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: Painting question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Ken,
One other thing, I have found that painting stainless is almost futile, the
first time you put a screwdriver to it, the paint just flakes off. Not so
with cad plated screws, seem to have a better bite for the paint. Over
time, the cad screws will definitely lose paint, and then even rust. I
changed all my "maintenance" screws on my 13-year old -4 to stainless, looks
a lot better now.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting question...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >Paint the screws that will most likely never see a screwdriver
again...like the tank attach screws.
> >
> Agreed. Those will be painted in place and hopefully never removed again.
>
> >The hardware used to attach fairings and inspection covers, WILL get
abused. Paint them if you don't mind chips and dings. Otherwise, no one
will notice them au naturel.
> >
> You think? I can't seem to summon a convincing image of how
> inconspicuous the untreated screw heads will be. That said, I
> definitely don't want to live with chips & dings, so it seems like
> painting is out. I had some fantasy of being 'really careful' in
> removing/installing painted screws, but that's probably just
self-delusion.
>
> >A plane with painted fasteners on inspection panels with no chips or
signs of removal is a plane that I don't want to fly in!
> >
> Agreed!!
>
> >I use stainless screws for most of my fairings and cover plates and I
think they look just peachy. Oh, nylon washers under the screw heads will
protect your paint. Countersunk washers are also great for the flush
screws.
> >
> >
> Do you have any close-up pics of untreated stainless screws installed in
> your painted RV?
>
> Ken
>
>
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: Painting question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
<snip>
>I use stainless screws for most of my fairings and cover plates and I
think they look just peachy. Oh, nylon washers under the screw heads will
protect your paint. Countersunk washers are also great for the flush
screws.
> >
> >
>Do you have any close-up pics of untreated stainless screws installed in
>your painted RV?
Not really. Reason: can't see them anyway unless you look up close.
Really, don't sweat the fastener issue. You're going to booger up a bunch
of them over the coming years of RV grins (and necessary annuals), and will
probably lose a few as well. I just keep a bag of screws handy on my
workbench and install as needed. The little #6 screws I always manage to
mangle sufficiently enough to require replacement. The #8's hold up better.
There is just more meat there for the bit to engage.
I'm looking forward to seeing your painted airplane! It's quite a nerve
wracking experience when someone else is doing the work. Luckily, my
painter got my trim scheme right, and only painted a few access covers and
the whelan tip light covers the wrong color. With a little paint remover
and a touch up gun, it turned out OK! Oh, and there was the little issue of
a missing N number, but he got that done the evening before I flew home.
Pro painters have to be supervised...like kids after a plate of brownies and
a quart of Pepsi.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: Painting question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
Pat Hatch wrote:
>One other thing, I have found that painting stainless is almost futile, the first
time you put a screwdriver to it, the paint just flakes off.
>
Good info.
> Not so with cad plated screws, seem to have a better bite for the paint. Over
time, the cad screws will definitely lose paint, and then even rust. I changed
all my "maintenance" screws on my 13-year old -4 to stainless, looks a lot
better now.
>
>
Sounds like just leaving those screws alone is the way to go.
Thanks,
Ken
Message 63
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sargentclt@cs.com
I understand there are many variables to building a kit aircraft, but
I am trying to figure approximately what I would spend to finish one. For
example assume the following. I find an o-320 engine for 7-10 thousand
dollars, I paint the bird myself, use vans instruments to get the airplane
flying. I need to keep the instruments simple for cost reasons and upgrades
later. What would I need to allocate for this venture. Vans has
approximately 35 thousand as a finish price. Is this reasonable. All
replies would be appreciated and any figures will not be passed on to your
wives for a small donation. Thanks
Message 64
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Van's estimator has proven to be pretty accurate. If you're a real
scrounger, you can build an airplane for well under the cost Van's lists.
On the other hand, if cost is no object, or if you're a lazy buyer, your
project can cost much more than the factory estimates.
KB
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Sargentclt@cs.com>
Subject: RV-List: pricing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sargentclt@cs.com
>
>
> I understand there are many variables to building a kit aircraft,
but
> I am trying to figure approximately what I would spend to finish one. For
> example assume the following. I find an o-320 engine for 7-10 thousand
> dollars, I paint the bird myself, use vans instruments to get the airplane
> flying. I need to keep the instruments simple for cost reasons and
upgrades
> later. What would I need to allocate for this venture. Vans has
> approximately 35 thousand as a finish price. Is this reasonable. All
> replies would be appreciated and any figures will not be passed on to your
> wives for a small donation. Thanks
>
>
Message 65
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--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Mon, 19 May 2003 Sargentclt@cs.com wrote:
--snip--
> What would I need to allocate for this venture.
A couple of years ago I started a table of all the kit prices and options, just
for my own use. I never finished it, but you might find it helpful. It's at
http://www.vansairforce.org/projects/mchenryt/options.html
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 66
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Normally L-17 and Navion designations are interchangeable as a lot of civvie
Navions have military or faux-military paint schemes. They did come off the
same assembly line with only cosmetic differences. Of course there's a few
L-17 purists who get their hackles up if it didn't have a BU number. Then
again I was told I could just call mine an L-17 and park with the warbirds
at SnF and get all the warbird perks, even with a civvie paint scheme.
Haven't tried it yet.
Greg - do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
>
> Dang..... & I thought only the Beechcraft guys were going
> after each other with such vigor. Yea I'm talking about the
> "V" tail guys but if you really
> want to start something call a Sierra, a Musketeer....... 8+)
> Is it OK to
> refer to the L-17 as a Navion ? (Please note I did not call
> the L-17 a birddog, only made that mistake once. Got it from
> both sides on that one.) KABONG (GBA) Do Not Archive.
>
> > Whoa, I can't let that go unchallenged. I see no reason to
> insult the
> > Navion;-) The comparison should be to the Rangemaster, or
> > Rangemutation as we canopy drivers refer to it. They too
> screwed up a
> > perfectly good design with a fastback and door. We barely
> claim it as
> > kin and treat it like a red-headed step-child as I'm sure
> the 2-seat
> > RV'ers will with the -10.
>
Message 67
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| Subject: | Re: Dimmer switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
Hello, Al and others:
I have the Vans dimmer installed. I bought a package of Radio Shack knobs
(about five - black only, for less than $5). Installed and works well. For
full bright I have the little tab pointing straight up - in all my binary
switches UP means ON.
Looks really cool as part of my black instruments, black screws and
light/medium gray Imron panel. Getting real itchy lately ! !
Unfortunately, My docs are at the shop, and it is a Canadian Radio Shack
part #. If you are interested send me an email - I will send you the part #
night away. Your U.S. store should be able to locate the correct code for
south of the border. If you have problems Al I will send you one free -
your U.S. postage. I'm going to Oshkosh this summer - I could hand you
one - totally free. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - for three months.
> I ourchased Vans Dimmer switches for my RV8. Thes come without the needed
> Knobs. The instuctions say that Radio Shack carries the knobs for the 1/8
"
> shaft. I have tried 5 Radio Shacks and online,but no luck. Does anyone
know
> where I can get these. Thanks Al Grajek
Message 68
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| Subject: | Re: Avery RV Jack Stand Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
>
> Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
>>-No!! in my not so humble opinion do not drill them.
>>Send them back and ask Avery about the difference size.
>>
>>Jerry
>
>
> But if it where mine I would drill them...
>
> Phil
>
>
Fine drill them I don't care, your airplane, your money.
It would be a really stupid thing to do, but have at it.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 69
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|
rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Renters insurance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
I found out my flight school/FBO now strongly suggests I carry renters
insurance.
Can anybody recommend a company/broker, and, what kind of
prices/coverages are available.
So far, I am pretty consistent in getting 250K liability and 60K
hull/non-owner for $750.-/yr any better deals in town..
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 70
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
I have the total list of everything bought for my airplane, a 6A. If I
take out the engine, prop and panel, the total is about $28k. Nothing
was hired out. Just a data point, as I am a little skeptical about the
$35k flying claims. If one doesn't keep a detailed list, it is hard to
appreciate how the little stuff adds up.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 300 hours
www.rvforum.org
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
> I understand there are many variables to building a
> kit aircraft, but
> I am trying to figure approximately what I would spend to
> finish one. For
> example assume the following. I find an o-320 engine for
> 7-10 thousand
> dollars, I paint the bird myself, use vans instruments to get
> the airplane
> flying. I need to keep the instruments simple for cost
> reasons and upgrades
> later. What would I need to allocate for this venture. Vans has
> approximately 35 thousand as a finish price. Is this
> reasonable. All
> replies would be appreciated and any figures will not be
> passed on to your
> wives for a small donation. Thanks
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
Message 71
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| Subject: | Painting question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
One other thing about the screws that get removed ....
You **WILL** either lose or strip the heads of AT LEAST one and have to
replace it. At a time when you don't have just the right color of paint
alredy mixed up. And at a time when you don't have xx hours for the paint to
dry etc., etc., etc.
James
...cowl and fairings off 3 times in the last week
... 6 screws replaced
~ 140 hours (RV6)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 5:48 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting question...
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >Paint the screws that will most likely never see a screwdriver
> again...like the tank attach screws.
> >
> Agreed. Those will be painted in place and hopefully never removed again.
>
> >The hardware used to attach fairings and inspection covers, WILL
> get abused. Paint them if you don't mind chips and dings.
> Otherwise, no one will notice them au naturel.
> >
> You think? I can't seem to summon a convincing image of how
> inconspicuous the untreated screw heads will be. That said, I
> definitely don't want to live with chips & dings, so it seems like
> painting is out. I had some fantasy of being 'really careful' in
> removing/installing painted screws, but that's probably just
> self-delusion.
>
> >A plane with painted fasteners on inspection panels with no
> chips or signs of removal is a plane that I don't want to fly in!
> >
> Agreed!!
>
> >I use stainless screws for most of my fairings and cover plates
> and I think they look just peachy. Oh, nylon washers under the
> screw heads will protect your paint. Countersunk washers are
> also great for the flush screws.
> >
> >
> Do you have any close-up pics of untreated stainless screws installed in
> your painted RV?
>
> Ken
>
>
Message 72
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| Subject: | Re: Avery RV Jack Stand Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Jerry Springer wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
> >
> > Jerry Springer wrote:
> >
> >
> >>-No!! in my not so humble opinion do not drill them.
> >>Send them back and ask Avery about the difference size.
> >>
> >>Jerry
> >
> >
> > But if it where mine I would drill them...
> >
> > Phil
> >
> >
> Fine drill them I don't care, your airplane, your money.
> It would be a really stupid thing to do, but have at it.
>
> Jerry
> do not archive
I am going to drill mine........except I'm not building one.
do not archive
Message 73
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| Subject: | Re: Wing cooling (another wacky idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Wing cooling (another wacky idea)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@boulder.nist.gov>
>
> I know that there are very few water-cooled aircraft, but does
anyone know
> if any (in history, not just RVs) have been successfully cooled using the
> wings as heat exchangers?
> I was interested to know if anyone had attempted this in the past.
>
> It could significantly reduce the cooling drag, if it worked.
Also, the
> thermal mass of the wings and structure would really help during
climb-out.
The topic of cooling systems often will cause heated discussions, to coin a
phrase. Skin radiators have been used in a very limited number of
applications, mostly racing. In addition to the Supermarine mentioned I
believe at least one of the Curtiss biplane Schneider Cup racers used the
system. Attempts to use it in more utilitarian aircraft have not been
successful. Hoerner, in Fluid Dynamic Drag, deals with the subject in the
chapter on internal systems, Drag of Radiator Installations. He gives only
one reference, a German document of unspecified date, but it likely was
prior to WWII. Essentially he says that in theory, turbulent skin friction
drag might decrease due to increase in temp in the boundary layer but to
attain thrust, (a negative drag component) the heat must be transferred in a
region where the static pressure is higher than the ambient pressure. This
is difficult to do on a wing and so the thrust will be negative and as a
result, little or no benefit can be achieved. He concludes the paragraph
with the observation that for this reason, and other practical ones (like
vulnerability) it has never really been utilized in aircraft design. He
further describes radiator designs as having in the order of 100 times the
surface area that it does frontal area. This tends to equate with the wing
area available.
The problem with liquid cooling systems, as with air cooling systems, is to
create an efficient installation. The P-51 is probably the best system.
Inlet size, diffuser proportions, heat exchanger characteristics and
velocity thru the exchanger and the convergent duct and outlet, in addition
to the location on the aircraft and the external drag characteristics of the
enclosure all need to be optimised. This is seldom done in amateur built
aircraft, nor is it easy to do. But if it is not, one cannot expect much in
the way of drag reduction. Personal opinions follow.
It is probably easier for most of us to devise an air cooling system that is
relatively efficient than a liquid system.
Unless a liquid cooled engine has been designed expressly with the cooling
requirement for high continuous power output it may not do as good a job of
cooling as is commonly thought. True, internal temperature excursions will
be smaller but coolant passage designs may be inadequate for reasonable
service life. Maintenance on liquid systems will be more critical and more
demanding. Now here I'll stick my neck out even farther with regard to air
cooling. I'm not convinced that a plenum necessarily is better than a
conventional baffle system. A. J. Smith's analysis of the propulsive
efficiency of the AJ2 satisfied him that he could do as well with regular
baffles. His success is well documented. Plenums are fine if you want to
build them but they are probably less important than some other elements in
the system. As to the shape of the inlets, round is fine but also not
necessary. Miley used them mainly because they were easy to calculate. I
am aware of no formula 1 aircraft that use round inlets.
I am sure there are other opinions out there. I look forward to hearing
them
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 74
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Hi Guys,
For what it's worth I think I can shed a little light on the painting
problems here.
First there is a BIG difference in "technique" between spraying with
conventional siphon gun (Binks 7) and a HVLP gun (DeVilbliss FLG). Not
to mention the differences in how the product is atomized in the two
types of guns.
For example, the siphon gun with a production fluid nozzle, needle, and
air cap needs at least 35 PSI @ 2.3 CFM to minimally atomize lacquer.
Urethanes are far more viscous so both pressure and CFM need to be
higher to achieve the same atomization.
In most of the HVLP guns either the cup or the pick-up tube or both have
additional venturis to help "pressurize" the cup and or tube to help
move the product to the to the fluid nozzle. The venturis in the air
cap chamber are different and allow the product to atomize at much lower
air pressure but a higher CFM. You also have to use the right nozzle,
needle, cap combination for the product you are applying. In short
twice the product out the cap at half the pressure compared to a
conventional gun. By the same scale the HVLP only needs about 7-10 PSI
but requires almost 5 CFM to atomize lacquer.
Figures may vary from gun to gun but a good starting rule of thumb for
HVLP is to cut the pressure at least in half and double the CFM as
compared to a conventional siphon gun.
Okay, to address some of the problems I keep reading. Most of the
problems I've seen in the shop from people using a HVLP gun are caused
by moving the gun too fast! A conventional gun relies on air pressure
to move the product to the surface you are coating so you keep the
nozzle back from the surface and you move your fan quicker. The HVLP
gun doesn't have all that air blowing out the cap so you get closer and
move slower, plus your fan is generally a lot wider, so less passes.
With either type of gun you have to lay enough product down for it to
flow and use the right reducer to allow it to flow once it is on the
surface. Yes, it is a fine line between flowing a mirror finish and
"hanging curtains"... that's another reason to use the same system from
start to finish. Using a reducer that is too slow or too fast will cause
a wide variety of problems from blushing, to crazing, to real pretty
orange peel. None are fun trying to correct.
Air temp is important as has been pointed out in other posts. In
shooting a job that requires 3 gallons of product our two stage
compressor kicks on twice. Stable air is the key to a nice job. Our
air stays right around 60-65 degrees. We have 6 water / oil traps and 3
filter banks before the air hits the regulator.
Turbines heat up really fast and heat the air really fast too! The few
that I know of that are still being used have been retro-fitted with
huge "chillers" to cool the air prior to going into the system.
One last thing, don't get hung up on H.P. size. I've seen "cheapie"
compressors that claim to be 5 hp that couldn't put out 6 CFM @ 60 PSI.
More CFM at higher flow pressure is the ticket, with the biggest tank
you can find. Just an old painters opinion...
Jim Duckett N708JD
Message 75
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
Guys,
I need some input from you A and P and A and I fellows out there. I have an offer
to purchase an IO-320 that was built in 1994 by a fellow in Colorado...since
retired (Dick Dumars) The engine is said to be dynoed at 180HP due to porting
and polishing of the heads, and 10:1 pistons. It's presently on a Lancair that
is less than one year old.
Itr has 50 hours on this first rebuild (but sat idle for 8+ years). not certified
due to the compression(??), but supposedly not a problem with effecting TBO
time.
It has a Lancair Hartzell C/S Prop that has been "optimized for the Lancair performance
envelope"...different twist of some sort.
So...will this set-up be a good purchase at 20K and will it work well in my RV-4?
Does the compression effect the useful life of the overhaul? What else might
I be missing?
Appreciate your ideas and thoughts...on or off list
do not archive
Ron Patterson RV-4
N8ZD - reserved
Message 76
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
My ASI (UMA, steam-gauge type) has always seemed to read low based on
side-by-side comparisons flying with other RVs, so I built a manometer and
measured it, and it showed my ASI as being 6 mph low from 80 up through
redline, and increasing in error below that.
I'd like to adjust it just by the 6 mph, but before I pull it out of the
panel I just need to ask -- are these things even adjustible, and if so how
is it done?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 77
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| Subject: | Re : Buffing out polyurethane |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
G'Day Mark,
I have just finished painting my RV6 with Imron, and can confidently say that I
had no problem in sanding out runs or overspray. Warm weather probably helped,
but if I got a run I simply waited about 1.5 to 2 hours and wet-sanded it out.
Depending on the situation, I then repainted or waited a couple of days and
buffed the area to a shine using a foam pad and buffing compound. To get a glass-like
finish, I needed to then use a very fine cutting compound, but it worked
fine.
One problem that became noticable when painted both aluminum and fibreglass was
that the f/glass got a better finish. I put this down to the fact that the alloy
surface was colder to the touch and when the paint was applied, it got even
colder, resulting in orange peel, whereas the f/glass was warmer and got a dead
smooth result.
Anyway, wet-sanding with #1200 or finer before machine buffing resulted in a good
finish.
My AUD$0.02
Martin in Oz
Message 78
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| Subject: | Elevator Madness |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Gert & Bill -
Thanks for the input. I've done as you suggest and things have improved
a great deal. Thanks.
Now...to balance the elevators. I've already drilled eight 1/2" holes
in the right elevator counterwieght, as deep as I dare. It's becoming
more balanced, but sooo slowly. At this rate I fear there will be
nothing left of the wieght by the time I'm done. Is this typical? Do
you normally fill the holes made in the lead with micro ballons or
something when done?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
> Hi Larry
>
> I've noticed the same on my elevators. I ffund that I had to
> turn one of
> the bearings in 1/2 a turn to line up the elevators just a
> tad better. Bolts would go in okay but noticed a slight
> tugging on the elevator spar.
>
> I also decided NOT to use any washers around the center bearing as it
> would really force the elevators apart. used the same rational, the
> elevator horns will perform the same function.
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
> >
> > My RV-8 elevators swing in the breeze with all bolts in place .....
> > Until I torque them down. Then there is considerable less 'free
> > travel'. I can see the rod end bearing are content to
> rotate on the
> > bolt, but tightened down, the rod end is forced to rotate on the
> > bearing, and doesn't like to do so. Everything is lubed
> nicely. Any
> > other ideas?
> >
> > Also, the inboard ends of the elevator control horns fit snug up
> > against the middle bearing. Forcing the 5702-95-30 washers
> in there
> > makes the whole assembly stiffer. So, I'm not going to use the
> > washers. My logic is that the control horns themselves
> will perform
> > the function of containing the bearing should it fail, since it is
> > right up against it. And that is the only purpose of the washer.
> > Sound thinking?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > -
> > Larry
Message 79
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| Subject: | Re: IO-320 w Hartzell CS prop in a Lancair - for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Ron,
I have no airplane engine overhaul experience but I have done more than 200
engines of all other sorts - sports cars, motorcycles, boats, tractors, etc
etc. I can tell you several qualities of a good engine.
1 - It runs.
2 - It doesn't make unpleasant noises - knocks etc
3 - It doesn't squirt stuff out - oil, water, gasses etc
4 - It doesn't smoke like crazy.
5 - It has good oil pressure
6 - It has good compression.
Age, TBO, Claims - all crap.
I probably missed something but this is a good start. If you buy a bad
engine for cheap, you have a better chance.
I figured I could easily rebuild a simple ass Lycoming, it looks just like
a VW, but why when it would cost almost as much as the new one from Van's
that I put in my RV6a.?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 80
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| Subject: | Dallas Area RVs or tailwheels? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Do not archive
I'll be in the Dallas area on business, near Dallas-Love field, May 31 -
June 6th. I'd like to take advantage of the plentiful tailwheel
aircraft in the area and fly as often as possible -- daily if wx and
schedules permit. Ideally I'd prefer RV flight time of coarse, but any
tailwheel with RV-like manners is good too. Can anyone point me in the
right direction to contact a willing RV'er or good flight school? I'm
currrent and tailwheel endorsed (but rusty - there are no tailwheel
rentals in my area).
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
Message 81
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| Subject: | Re: new rv-3 design / Tailwheel etc. |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Connell <conneljr@bigpond.net.au>
Could any listers please advise if the current RV 3 tailwheel setup is the
same as the 6 & 7, IE. Same wheel diameter, tailwheel spring length /
diameter etc. Thank you . James C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: new rv-3 design
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
>
> Lets see......
> 1. If you make the cowl without cheeks, the cockpit has to be wider to fit
> the "bigger" engines/cowl combo.
> 2. You could use a modified -4 wing.
> 3. "P.Off" is not quite a good enough reason to go tri gear,
> 4. Lets see..... Except for the tri gear take a look at HRI, single seat
BUT
> if you really want to go fast consider the HRIII.
> Dang... That means ya gotta do the lay out and jig work, measure & drill
all
> dem holes, adjust and build to fit. iffen ya'll aint sawed the HRIII yet,
> use is in fir a rare treat. Betcha it'll be on display at Bakersfield BBQ
on
> the 31st of this month. See ya there. Do Not Archive. KABONG (GBA)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com>
> > Well I think that Van should improve on the 3 in these ways.
> >
> > 1. include the new composite cowl. (will accept bigger engines and get
rid
> > of the cowl cheeks)
> >
> > 2. allow the use of the 8 wings. (this will get rid of the so called
weak
> > wing)
> >
> > 3. put a nose gear on the thing. (this will piss off the hard liners lol
> > lol) and get vans some new orders.
> >
> > 4. rename it to the rv 3 1/2 A (modified)
> >
> > what do Ya'll thank.
> >
> > Glenn Williams
>
>
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