Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:22 AM - WTB - cruise prop for RV-3 (RV3)
2. 03:48 AM - WTB - Prop for 150 hp RV-3 [Update] (RV3)
3. 04:27 AM - Re: Oshkosh housing? (Mark Phillips)
4. 04:41 AM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Jim Norman)
5. 05:23 AM - Re: Re: How Much Paint? (Doug Gray)
6. 05:50 AM - -10 flown again yet? (BBreckenridge@att.net)
7. 06:14 AM - Another RV Takes Wing (Curt Reimer)
8. 06:21 AM - Re: How Much Paint? (Scott Bilinski)
9. 06:40 AM - Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (P M Condon)
10. 06:59 AM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Dana Overall)
11. 07:02 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (DWENSING@aol.com)
12. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (Bill Christie)
13. 07:20 AM - Re: Another RV Takes Wing (Chris Stone)
14. 07:22 AM - Re: Oshkosh housing? (Tom Gummo)
15. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
16. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (UFOBUCK@aol.com)
17. 08:05 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (Chris Stone)
18. 11:01 AM - Camping at OSH (Wheeler North)
19. 11:50 AM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Jeff Dowling)
20. 12:35 PM - static port location (Chris W)
21. 12:39 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Dana Overall)
22. 01:11 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Jim Jewell)
23. 01:40 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (LarryRobertHelming)
24. 01:46 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers)
25. 02:10 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Tedd McHenry)
26. 02:27 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Rob Prior)
27. 02:45 PM - Re: Camping at OSH (Curt Hoffman)
28. 04:43 PM - Re: Camping at OSH (kempthornes)
29. 05:13 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Elsa & Henry)
30. 09:01 PM - Tail wheel parts (chris m)
31. 10:45 PM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (aronsond)
Message 1
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| Subject: | WTB - cruise prop for RV-3 |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
Help.
Broke my 86 inch diameter Pacesetter prop with 3/8 bolt holes.
Ordering new means being grounded possibly for months.
If nothing else, I'm in need a loaner.
Call Bob at (816) 835-7888 or...
rv3@comcast.net
Message 2
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| Subject: | WTB - Prop for 150 hp RV-3 [Update] |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
Help.
Broke my 68 X 71 Pacesetter cruise prop with 3/8 bolt holes
for my 150 hp 0-320 Lycoming powered RV-3.
Ordering new means being grounded possibly for months.
If nothing else, I'm in need a loaner.
Call Bob at (816) 835-7888 or...
rv3@comcast.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh housing? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Aw, c'mon- the yodelling is just as normal as the mosquitos.
Can't wait t'get baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaack to Camp Schooooooooooooooller.......
Yoodle-Aaaaaaaaaaaa, yoodleaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaeeeeeeeeeeeeeoooooooooooh!!!!!!
8-)
From the PossumWorks in the TN alps
Mark do not archive
Alex Peterson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> > The downside is some SOB yo-dels on the PA at 0700 every
> > morning.
>
> This SOB is why there should be concealed carry allowed as OSH. That is
> far and away the dumbest thing about OSH camping along the flight line.
> Thunderstorms are normal - this yodelling yahoo is not.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP hours
>
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
Sorry to get into this fray... but this is not true.
QUOTE:::; "The only thing we pre punched guys don't do is measure and drill.
We still build. The first person who comes up to my finished 7 and says I
didn't build it gets a KABONG (I rode under the blue lights also)!!"
The kits prior to pre-punched also had aluminum that was NOT cut to size,
not bent to shape... and, many (most?) of the lightening holes were not cut
out (wing ribs, for example). If the pre-punched crowd thinks that the only
difference is the holes in the aluminum, they are WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. The
friggin aluminum was not bent, was not the right size, AND it had no holes.
Drilling the holes was the easy part you guys, and if you don't get that,
you don't get it!
Don't miss-understand me, I'd much rather have a kit that has all the
aluminum cut to the right size and the holes punched, but please, don't
believe that the only difference is the holes in the skins.
jim
tampa
Please archive, so people can know just who started this fight!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: How Much Paint? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> paint thicknesses can be measured using a micrometer, and probably
should
> be done during your practice work before painting your RV.
Engineering perspective.....
I'm sure this is the only way to measure the dry film thickness but I
doubt any test piece will be representative of the overall or average
thickness.
A paint thickness gauge is used to measure the wet film and at a
Composites Technology Seminar (strictly for work...) I attended many
years ago was told that the only way to control the actual tickness of
the wet film was to measure it frequently while spraying. Thickness
gauge in one hand, spray gun in the other.
At this same seminar I recall being told that with a traditional HP
spraygun only about 25% of the paint ends up in the film. For an HVLP
gun the proportion is a little above 50%.
The figures for added weight given by other listers seem to support
these proportions.
RV builder perspective.....
All this thinking gets in the way of building. I'll be happy to just
tame the spraygun enough just to get a good finish. No chance I will
ever be using a thickness gauge.
Doug Gray
RV6 fuse
Sydney, Australia
Message 6
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| Subject: | -10 flown again yet? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
Andy;
I was out at Aurora's airport on Monday evening and watched it come in, doing it's
best to
handle a bit of a variable crosswind. One of the employees out there mentioned
it had
been doing "touch-and-go's all day". Lookin' good!
Bruce
Message 7
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| Subject: | Another RV Takes Wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
Hi Listers,
Last Saturday at 8:20 AM my RV-6, C-GACR felt the air under her wings for
the first time. Although my RV piloting experience is limited, I had flown
quite a bit of taildragger (Citabria) in the last couple of weeks to get
ready. The RV flew well, needing only minor trimming. I took it up to around
3700 AGL (which required a clearance) to feel it out and test the slow
flight characteristics. Our field has class D only 1200 above and I didn't
want to just stay in the pattern, nor did I want to fly 20 miles away from
the airport to get out from under it. After 40 minutes or so at altitude,
staying above the airport the whole time, I descended back to pattern
height. One practice approach slightly hot and then back around and down on
our grass field with only a skip or two and I was grinnin' like a fool.
It certainly flies like nothing else I have flown. Very sensitive but easy
to control. Flying with a left-handed stick was such a non-issue that I
forgot to even notice until I was back down and realized I hadn't done that
before. Wonderful accelleration and power, even with 160 hp and a wood prop.
You can sure feel those bumps though. Of course, on a first flight your
senses are in overdrive, and you notice everything and worry about it. My
final approach was over a black field, and even though it was early in the
day I was pushed around a little. Trouble is, being the first flight I
didn't know if it was turbulence or the tail falling off! Post flight
inspection revealed no problems at all, although I did clean out the fuel
screens again just to get rid of any building debris.
I have been building, off and on, since 1994, and have been on this list
nearly the whole time. Thanks to everyone who contributes to this
magnificent library of knowledge, and of course to Matt for operating it. I
won't be ready to fly to Osh this year (and my wife wants to drive one last
time) but next year I'll be there, and maybe Sun&Fun too. There's a
continent out there that needs to be explored!
cheers
Curt :-)) <= RV grin
RV-6 C-GACR FLYING!
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: How Much Paint? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Top coat only, single stage.
At 06:48 PM 6/3/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>Is that only counting gallons of the finish coat or are you also including
>the primer coat? Did you prime with PPG DPLF?
>
>Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up O-360 3XG reserved.
>Working on Canopy of Finish Kit
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: How Much Paint?
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>> I dont feel so bad then I am at about 2 to 2.5 gal.
>>
>> At 03:22 PM 6/3/03 -0700, you wrote:
>> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>> >
>> >Scott,
>> >
>> >I used PPG Concept and also found that it took 3 coats to really get the
>> >finish I was after. Because we all typically use multiple colors it's a
>bit
>> >hard to keep track of how much paint is being used. In all though I
>remember
>> >adding it up and between the white, red, and gray I used nearly 3
>gallons.
>> >
>> >Cheers,
>> >Randy Lervold
>> >www.rv-8.com
>> >
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> >Subject: RV-List: How Much Paint?
>> >
>> >
>> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>> ><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>> >>
>> >> For those of you that have painted your own plane, just how many
>gallons
>> >> did you use for a single stage paint? I applied 3 coats on the heavy
>side
>> >I
>> >> think. and want to compare.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Scott Bilinski
>> >> Eng dept 305
>> >> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> >> Pager (858) 502-5190
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 305
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and
about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ? Adhesive is my only solution
for this. Don't have any pro-seal left over.....don't want to mail order
anything unless I have to. (My wife not only says hi to the UPS, FED-X,
Emery Air Express delivery guys....she knows their names......hmmm)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jgnorman@tampabay.rr.com>
>
>Sorry to get into this fray... but this is not true
If the pre-punched crowd thinks that the only
>difference is the holes in the aluminum, they are WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. The
>friggin aluminum was not bent, was not the right size, AND it had no holes.
>Drilling the holes was the easy part you guys, and if you don't get that,
>you don't get it!
Sorry Jim, the post was all tongue in cheek to KABONG. Kinda a play on
words if you may. Like Van's said, we used to start cars with a crank, who
wants to do that again.
Last comment on this, stepped on someone's toes.
Oshkosh..........beer and brats for a week!! WOO HOO!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 6/4/03 9:42:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon@mitre.org
writes:
> Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and
> about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ?
You don't say what temperatures the application sees or if it needs chemical
resistance (like gas or oil) or UV resistance...... but you could try a
structural epoxy such as PC-7 sold in hardware stores or Gorilla Glue. Info
available at www.gorillaglue.com or 1-800-966-3458.
Dale Ensing
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Christie" <billc3@cox.net>
J B Weld, of course!! I have used this for over 25 years for structural and
cosmetic repairs. Just clean and roughen the surface slightly.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: "P M Condon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help
> --> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
>
> Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and
> about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ? Adhesive is my only solution
> for this. Don't have any pro-seal left over.....don't want to mail order
> anything unless I have to. (My wife not only says hi to the UPS, FED-X,
> Emery Air Express delivery guys....she knows their names......hmmm)
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Another RV Takes Wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Stone" <Chris.Stone@a-dec.com>
Congratulations!!! Must be a hellova feeling of accomplishment! Every
time I hear of a first flight of an RV it adds to my determination to
get finished.
Again... A heartfelt congratulations!
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
Newberg, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Reimer [mailto:cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca]
Subject: RV-List: Another RV Takes Wing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
Hi Listers,
Last Saturday at 8:20 AM my RV-6, C-GACR felt the air under her wings
for the first time. Although my RV piloting experience is limited, I had
flown quite a bit of taildragger (Citabria) in the last couple of weeks
to get ready. The RV flew well, needing only minor trimming. I took it
up to around 3700 AGL (which required a clearance) to feel it out and
test the slow flight characteristics. Our field has class D only 1200
above and I didn't want to just stay in the pattern, nor did I want to
fly 20 miles away from the airport to get out from under it. After 40
minutes or so at altitude, staying above the airport the whole time, I
descended back to pattern height. One practice approach slightly hot and
then back around and down on our grass field with only a skip or two and
I was grinnin' like a fool.
It certainly flies like nothing else I have flown. Very sensitive but
easy to control. Flying with a left-handed stick was such a non-issue
that I forgot to even notice until I was back down and realized I hadn't
done that before. Wonderful accelleration and power, even with 160 hp
and a wood prop. You can sure feel those bumps though. Of course, on a
first flight your senses are in overdrive, and you notice everything and
worry about it. My final approach was over a black field, and even
though it was early in the day I was pushed around a little. Trouble is,
being the first flight I didn't know if it was turbulence or the tail
falling off! Post flight inspection revealed no problems at all,
although I did clean out the fuel screens again just to get rid of any
building debris.
I have been building, off and on, since 1994, and have been on this list
nearly the whole time. Thanks to everyone who contributes to this
magnificent library of knowledge, and of course to Matt for operating
it. I won't be ready to fly to Osh this year (and my wife wants to drive
one last
time) but next year I'll be there, and maybe Sun&Fun too. There's a
continent out there that needs to be explored!
cheers
Curt :-)) <= RV grin
RV-6 C-GACR FLYING!
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh housing? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
I have just ONE word for you.
FOAM EAR PLUGS
Who said I can count. :-)
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh housing?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Aw, c'mon- the yodelling is just as normal as the mosquitos.
>
> Can't wait t'get baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaack to Camp Schooooooooooooooller.......
> Yoodle-Aaaaaaaaaaaa, yoodleaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaeeeeeeeeeeeeeoooooooooooh!!!!!!
> 8-)
>
> From the PossumWorks in the TN alps
> Mark do not archive
>
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> >
> > > The downside is some SOB yo-dels on the PA at 0700 every
> > > morning.
> >
> > This SOB is why there should be concealed carry allowed as OSH. That is
> > far and away the dumbest thing about OSH camping along the flight line.
> > Thunderstorms are normal - this yodelling yahoo is not.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > RV6-A N66AP hours
> >
> > www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> >
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help |
06/04/2003 09:24:02 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Try Hylomar structural adhesive. It is aluminum in color and we use it to
stick countersunk washers to composite fairings. An added incentive is, is
that it has aluminum in it and will allow for the electrical path to not be
disturbed in you application and will prevent corrosion on what you are
applying the shim stock to.
Regards
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Texas
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help |
--> RV-List message posted by: UFOBUCK@aol.com
Auto body shops have some very high quality adhesives that they use to bond body
panels. It is surprising how much of a new car is held together with glue instead
of welds.
They might have the end of a tube that they will give you.
It is available at auto paint stores also but rather expensive.
A good fit of the parts to be bonded is all important.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Stone" <Chris.Stone@a-dec.com>
RTV silicone works well since it flexes with the substrate. It also
bonds well to nonporous materials.
C. Stone
RV-8 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: P M Condon [mailto:pcondon@mitre.org]
Subject: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need
help
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and
about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ? Adhesive is my only solution
for this. Don't have any pro-seal left over.....don't want to mail order
anything unless I have to. (My wife not only says hi to the UPS, FED-X,
Emery Air Express delivery guys....she knows their names......hmmm)
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
I found a fairly light camping aluminum cot at REI that seems to work very
nicely. Weighs 7 lbs folds up to about 2 ft by 8". I haven't used it at OSH
but I have used it for several local fly/camping jaunts.
I Certainly agree that a good tent is the most important element.
Hope to see ya all there. I usually camp under the trees over by the
antiquer's. The yodelling isn't quite so loud there, although one old guy
does a fairly good rooster about the same time.
do not archive
W
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which
opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dana Overall <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> High cost drill.....................Low cost drill...................
Well,
> I've got to throw my free (get what ya pay for) advice. With the new pre
> punched kits, "at least through wing contruction", 99% of all drilling you
> are going to do is ream prepunched holes. I used my el super cheapo,
> Walmart special DeVilbiss air drill that I bought as a package deal with
> sanding and Cut-off tool for dirt cheap. Heck, looking back on it, I
> haven't even bought any new #30 or #40 bits since the original half dozen
> each..............
>
> If I had to actually drill a buttload of "real" holes, I'm sure I would
feel
> different. We don't drill anymore all we do is throw some oil in the
drill
> and ream on.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | static port location |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
I noticed it a catalog the other day a pitot with a static port on the
side of it. Has anyone used this kind of a static port. It seems like
it would make the plumbing a bit easier to me. Any down sides?
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which
>opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm.
For goodness sake, just like the weight of reducer in paint, let's not even
go there. Been there, don't even want the shirt!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Jeff,
This kind of short cutting attitude is easy to fall into but generally ill
advised to make a habit of.
I don't think this procedure should be done at all. Certainly not for
structural applications!
Just because the nose of a dimple die can be forced through a too small hole
and produce a dimple does not mean that the resultant dimple will conform to
the design requirements.
A dimple can be made without drilling at all, don't ask![:-{!
Go ahead try it on some scrap but remember to dig the punched out scrap out
of the female dimple die somehow.
The probability is that the dimpled hole starting out smaller than the
called out #30, #40 (or #41 by some folks) drill size will suffer too much
stretch leaving the hole edge prone to stress cracking at some time in the
future.
Try to keep in mind that the aircraft industry has developed the riveting
process through combination of a series trial and error steps and solidly
based engineering logic over many years.
Resizing holes when there are so many of them, might seem at first glance to
be worth avoiding.
If one absolutely must save some time and effort during construction
consider not priming all those Alclad parts or some such step in
construction. Worth the work or not, I primed mine.
If time and effort is in such short supply consider buying a built kit or
quitting now because down the road there will be many more time consuming
and effort oriented steps to accomplish on the road to the runway.
There are books available that explain the background and current status of
accepted practices for all aspects of modern aircraft construction and
design. Some of these publications might seem to be expensive or dull and
heavy reading, They are very useful as references for topics such as this
and a must for the less experienced or novice builder.
Happy drilling,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which
> opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dana Overall <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >
> > High cost drill.....................Low cost drill...................
> Well,
> > I've got to throw my free (get what ya pay for) advice. With the new
pre
> > punched kits, "at least through wing contruction", 99% of all drilling
you
> > are going to do is ream prepunched holes. I used my el super cheapo,
> > Walmart special DeVilbiss air drill that I bought as a package deal with
> > sanding and Cut-off tool for dirt cheap. Heck, looking back on it, I
> > haven't even bought any new #30 or #40 bits since the original half
dozen
> > each..............
> >
> > If I had to actually drill a buttload of "real" holes, I'm sure I would
> feel
> > different. We don't drill anymore all we do is throw some oil in the
> drill
> > and ream on.
> >
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY
> > RV-7 slider/fuselage
> > http://rvflying.tripod.com
> > do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Probably doesn't debur the holes either. A close look should reveal tiny
tears in the metal that could lead to something serious under stress and
time. Is the plane unsafe this year or 5 years from now? Don't know, but
it is not the approved method of construction by the designer. That is all
I am saying. I would like to know the plane's call number so I don't one
day take a ride in it. But that is probably not necessary because I am
sure the lack of building to designer's specs is noted in the
construction/builder's book/manual.
Larry in Indiana
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which
> opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm.
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
But wait a minute, if you don't ream the holes, the plane will be heavier!
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
> >I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which
> >opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm.
>
>
> For goodness sake, just like the weight of reducer in paint, let's not
even
> go there. Been there, don't even want the shirt!!
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which
> opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm.
I strongly advise against that. I was told by one of Van's engineers
that--according to their tests--the punching process work hardens the material
around the hole, making it susceptible to fatigue cracking. It's necessary to
match drill or ream the hole to remove the work-hardened material, otherwise
you WILL greatly shorten the fatigue life of the part. That is in fact the
only reason Van's punches the holes undersize in the first place.
I have no idea what effect stretching the material around the hole with a
dimple die would have, but I find it hard to believe that it would not further
shorten the fatigue life.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
That's okay, it'll be offset by the reducer that evaporates out of the
paint... 8-)
Dr. Kevin P. Leathers wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
> But wait a minute, if you don't ream the holes, the plane will be heavier!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>>
>>>From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>>>I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which
>>>opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm.
>>
>>For goodness sake, just like the weight of reducer in paint, let's not
>>even go there. Been there, don't even want the shirt!!
>>
>>Dana Overall
>>Richmond, KY
>>RV-7 slider/fuselage
>>http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Camping at OSH |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
I've camped many times with a tent. Severe thunderstorms sometimes do me in
but then I crawl into the car to dry off. I unfortunately usually don't get
there until the end of the week so find myself more toward the road. Once we
got there so late on Saturday we had to camp up against the fence right by
the main highway. A little noisy in the am.
Last two years a buddy and me took a pop up and got there mid week. That was
nice.
This year for the first time I will be flying in and camping inside. My
plane is old enough that it qualifies as a contemporary classic so I get to
camp in the vintage area. That will be great for being right there in the
heart of things although I am a little worried about access to ice, store
stuff and so on. I don't recollect there being anything without walking back
into Scholler to the Red Barn. I'm also constrained a little on how much I
can carry in the plane. More by volume than weight but at least the tent,
sleeping bag, air mattress, chair, lantern, and a cooler will make it. Might
have to go visit some friends if we get a real gully washer.
Anyway- 5320W will be on the flight line this year if nothing goes wrong.
Maybe someday the RV9.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Camping at OSH
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Camping at OSH |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 05:44 PM 6/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
>
>Anyway- 5320W will be on the flight line this year if nothing goes wrong.
>Maybe someday the RV9.
MAYBE?? What kind of an attitude is that? :-(
do not archive
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>The probability is that the dimpled hole starting out smaller than the
>called out #30, #40 (or #41 by some folks) drill size will suffer too much
>stretch leaving the hole edge prone to stress cracking at some time in the
>future.
I found that the typical #40 drilled hole in .025" Alcad stretches from
nominal .098" dia. to .106" dia.due to dimpling action. That is why it is so
important to de-burr the hole after drilling prior to dimpling so micro
cracks do not appear in the stretched hole edge. I also found, from high
magnification checking, that el-cheapo dimple dies exacerbate microcracks
compared to two other 3/32" dies I have tried, the best made by those nice
people in Iowa
Cheers!!---Henry
Message 30
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| Subject: | Tail wheel parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: chris m <vhmum@bigpond.com>
My RV6 tail wheel is not locking in .
I disassembled tail wheel assembly and found the reason the tail wheel would
not lock in when I taxied straight.
The 3 little bits in the tail wheel assembly are stuffed.
I looked on plans but could not find part numbers.
They are the 3 small parts including the tiny spring that locks and unlocks
the tail wheel when you want it /not want it to lock in.
Does any one know the part numbers
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "aronsond" <aronsond@pacbell.net>
If the application is not in a high heat area, try JB Weld. It requires you
to scuff the parts a bit. Real strong stuff.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "P M Condon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help
> --> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
>
> Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and
> about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ? Adhesive is my only solution
> for this. Don't have any pro-seal left over.....don't want to mail order
> anything unless I have to. (My wife not only says hi to the UPS, FED-X,
> Emery Air Express delivery guys....she knows their names......hmmm)
>
>
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