---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 06/04/03: 31 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:22 AM - WTB - cruise prop for RV-3 (RV3) 2. 03:48 AM - WTB - Prop for 150 hp RV-3 [Update] (RV3) 3. 04:27 AM - Re: Oshkosh housing? (Mark Phillips) 4. 04:41 AM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Jim Norman) 5. 05:23 AM - Re: Re: How Much Paint? (Doug Gray) 6. 05:50 AM - -10 flown again yet? (BBreckenridge@att.net) 7. 06:14 AM - Another RV Takes Wing (Curt Reimer) 8. 06:21 AM - Re: How Much Paint? (Scott Bilinski) 9. 06:40 AM - Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (P M Condon) 10. 06:59 AM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Dana Overall) 11. 07:02 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (DWENSING@aol.com) 12. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (Bill Christie) 13. 07:20 AM - Re: Another RV Takes Wing (Chris Stone) 14. 07:22 AM - Re: Oshkosh housing? (Tom Gummo) 15. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com) 16. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (UFOBUCK@aol.com) 17. 08:05 AM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (Chris Stone) 18. 11:01 AM - Camping at OSH (Wheeler North) 19. 11:50 AM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Jeff Dowling) 20. 12:35 PM - static port location (Chris W) 21. 12:39 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Dana Overall) 22. 01:11 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Jim Jewell) 23. 01:40 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (LarryRobertHelming) 24. 01:46 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers) 25. 02:10 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Tedd McHenry) 26. 02:27 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Rob Prior) 27. 02:45 PM - Re: Camping at OSH (Curt Hoffman) 28. 04:43 PM - Re: Camping at OSH (kempthornes) 29. 05:13 PM - Re: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore (Elsa & Henry) 30. 09:01 PM - Tail wheel parts (chris m) 31. 10:45 PM - Re: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help (aronsond) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:22:31 AM PST US From: RV3 Subject: RV-List: WTB - cruise prop for RV-3 --> RV-List message posted by: RV3 Help. Broke my 86 inch diameter Pacesetter prop with 3/8 bolt holes. Ordering new means being grounded possibly for months. If nothing else, I'm in need a loaner. Call Bob at (816) 835-7888 or... rv3@comcast.net ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:48:30 AM PST US From: RV3 Subject: RV-List: WTB - Prop for 150 hp RV-3 [Update] --> RV-List message posted by: RV3 Help. Broke my 68 X 71 Pacesetter cruise prop with 3/8 bolt holes for my 150 hp 0-320 Lycoming powered RV-3. Ordering new means being grounded possibly for months. If nothing else, I'm in need a loaner. Call Bob at (816) 835-7888 or... rv3@comcast.net ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:27:34 AM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh housing? --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips Aw, c'mon- the yodelling is just as normal as the mosquitos. Can't wait t'get baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaack to Camp Schooooooooooooooller....... Yoodle-Aaaaaaaaaaaa, yoodleaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaeeeeeeeeeeeeeoooooooooooh!!!!!! 8-) From the PossumWorks in the TN alps Mark do not archive Alex Peterson wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > > The downside is some SOB yo-dels on the PA at 0700 every > > morning. > > This SOB is why there should be concealed carry allowed as OSH. That is > far and away the dumbest thing about OSH camping along the flight line. > Thunderstorms are normal - this yodelling yahoo is not. > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > RV6-A N66AP hours > > www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:41:31 AM PST US From: "Jim Norman" Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" Sorry to get into this fray... but this is not true. QUOTE:::; "The only thing we pre punched guys don't do is measure and drill. We still build. The first person who comes up to my finished 7 and says I didn't build it gets a KABONG (I rode under the blue lights also)!!" The kits prior to pre-punched also had aluminum that was NOT cut to size, not bent to shape... and, many (most?) of the lightening holes were not cut out (wing ribs, for example). If the pre-punched crowd thinks that the only difference is the holes in the aluminum, they are WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. The friggin aluminum was not bent, was not the right size, AND it had no holes. Drilling the holes was the easy part you guys, and if you don't get that, you don't get it! Don't miss-understand me, I'd much rather have a kit that has all the aluminum cut to the right size and the holes punched, but please, don't believe that the only difference is the holes in the skins. jim tampa Please archive, so people can know just who started this fight! ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:23:21 AM PST US From: Doug Gray Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: How Much Paint? --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray > paint thicknesses can be measured using a micrometer, and probably should > be done during your practice work before painting your RV. Engineering perspective..... I'm sure this is the only way to measure the dry film thickness but I doubt any test piece will be representative of the overall or average thickness. A paint thickness gauge is used to measure the wet film and at a Composites Technology Seminar (strictly for work...) I attended many years ago was told that the only way to control the actual tickness of the wet film was to measure it frequently while spraying. Thickness gauge in one hand, spray gun in the other. At this same seminar I recall being told that with a traditional HP spraygun only about 25% of the paint ends up in the film. For an HVLP gun the proportion is a little above 50%. The figures for added weight given by other listers seem to support these proportions. RV builder perspective..... All this thinking gets in the way of building. I'll be happy to just tame the spraygun enough just to get a good finish. No chance I will ever be using a thickness gauge. Doug Gray RV6 fuse Sydney, Australia ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:50:16 AM PST US From: BBreckenridge@att.net Subject: RV-List: -10 flown again yet? --> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net Andy; I was out at Aurora's airport on Monday evening and watched it come in, doing it's best to handle a bit of a variable crosswind. One of the employees out there mentioned it had been doing "touch-and-go's all day". Lookin' good! Bruce ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:14:45 AM PST US From: "Curt Reimer" Subject: RV-List: Another RV Takes Wing --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" Hi Listers, Last Saturday at 8:20 AM my RV-6, C-GACR felt the air under her wings for the first time. Although my RV piloting experience is limited, I had flown quite a bit of taildragger (Citabria) in the last couple of weeks to get ready. The RV flew well, needing only minor trimming. I took it up to around 3700 AGL (which required a clearance) to feel it out and test the slow flight characteristics. Our field has class D only 1200 above and I didn't want to just stay in the pattern, nor did I want to fly 20 miles away from the airport to get out from under it. After 40 minutes or so at altitude, staying above the airport the whole time, I descended back to pattern height. One practice approach slightly hot and then back around and down on our grass field with only a skip or two and I was grinnin' like a fool. It certainly flies like nothing else I have flown. Very sensitive but easy to control. Flying with a left-handed stick was such a non-issue that I forgot to even notice until I was back down and realized I hadn't done that before. Wonderful accelleration and power, even with 160 hp and a wood prop. You can sure feel those bumps though. Of course, on a first flight your senses are in overdrive, and you notice everything and worry about it. My final approach was over a black field, and even though it was early in the day I was pushed around a little. Trouble is, being the first flight I didn't know if it was turbulence or the tail falling off! Post flight inspection revealed no problems at all, although I did clean out the fuel screens again just to get rid of any building debris. I have been building, off and on, since 1994, and have been on this list nearly the whole time. Thanks to everyone who contributes to this magnificent library of knowledge, and of course to Matt for operating it. I won't be ready to fly to Osh this year (and my wife wants to drive one last time) but next year I'll be there, and maybe Sun&Fun too. There's a continent out there that needs to be explored! cheers Curt :-)) <= RV grin RV-6 C-GACR FLYING! ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:21:22 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: How Much Paint? --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Top coat only, single stage. At 06:48 PM 6/3/03 -0400, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" > >Is that only counting gallons of the finish coat or are you also including >the primer coat? Did you prime with PPG DPLF? > >Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up O-360 3XG reserved. >Working on Canopy of Finish Kit >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Scott Bilinski" >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: How Much Paint? > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski > >> >> I dont feel so bad then I am at about 2 to 2.5 gal. >> >> At 03:22 PM 6/3/03 -0700, you wrote: >> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" >> > >> >Scott, >> > >> >I used PPG Concept and also found that it took 3 coats to really get the >> >finish I was after. Because we all typically use multiple colors it's a >bit >> >hard to keep track of how much paint is being used. In all though I >remember >> >adding it up and between the white, red, and gray I used nearly 3 >gallons. >> > >> >Cheers, >> >Randy Lervold >> >www.rv-8.com >> > >> > >> >----- Original Message ----- >> >From: "Scott Bilinski" >> >To: >> >Subject: RV-List: How Much Paint? >> > >> > >> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski >> > >> >> >> >> For those of you that have painted your own plane, just how many >gallons >> >> did you use for a single stage paint? I applied 3 coats on the heavy >side >> >I >> >> think. and want to compare. >> >> >> >> >> >> Scott Bilinski >> >> Eng dept 305 >> >> Phone (858) 657-2536 >> >> Pager (858) 502-5190 >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> >> >> Scott Bilinski >> Eng dept 305 >> Phone (858) 657-2536 >> Pager (858) 502-5190 >> >> > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:40:51 AM PST US From: P M Condon Subject: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help --> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ? Adhesive is my only solution for this. Don't have any pro-seal left over.....don't want to mail order anything unless I have to. (My wife not only says hi to the UPS, FED-X, Emery Air Express delivery guys....she knows their names......hmmm) ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:59:36 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" > >Sorry to get into this fray... but this is not true If the pre-punched crowd thinks that the only >difference is the holes in the aluminum, they are WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. The >friggin aluminum was not bent, was not the right size, AND it had no holes. >Drilling the holes was the easy part you guys, and if you don't get that, >you don't get it! Sorry Jim, the post was all tongue in cheek to KABONG. Kinda a play on words if you may. Like Van's said, we used to start cars with a crank, who wants to do that again. Last comment on this, stepped on someone's toes. Oshkosh..........beer and brats for a week!! WOO HOO!! Dana Overall Richmond, KY RV-7 slider/fuselage http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:02:32 AM PST US From: DWENSING@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com In a message dated 6/4/03 9:42:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon@mitre.org writes: > Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and > about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ? You don't say what temperatures the application sees or if it needs chemical resistance (like gas or oil) or UV resistance...... but you could try a structural epoxy such as PC-7 sold in hardware stores or Gorilla Glue. Info available at www.gorillaglue.com or 1-800-966-3458. Dale Ensing ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:07:03 AM PST US From: "Bill Christie" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Christie" J B Weld, of course!! I have used this for over 25 years for structural and cosmetic repairs. Just clean and roughen the surface slightly. Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix ----- Original Message ----- From: "P M Condon" Subject: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help > --> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon > > Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and > about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ? Adhesive is my only solution > for this. Don't have any pro-seal left over.....don't want to mail order > anything unless I have to. (My wife not only says hi to the UPS, FED-X, > Emery Air Express delivery guys....she knows their names......hmmm) > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:20:32 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Another RV Takes Wing From: "Chris Stone" --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Stone" Congratulations!!! Must be a hellova feeling of accomplishment! Every time I hear of a first flight of an RV it adds to my determination to get finished. Again... A heartfelt congratulations! Chris Stone RV-8 Wings Newberg, OR -----Original Message----- From: Curt Reimer [mailto:cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca] Subject: RV-List: Another RV Takes Wing --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" Hi Listers, Last Saturday at 8:20 AM my RV-6, C-GACR felt the air under her wings for the first time. Although my RV piloting experience is limited, I had flown quite a bit of taildragger (Citabria) in the last couple of weeks to get ready. The RV flew well, needing only minor trimming. I took it up to around 3700 AGL (which required a clearance) to feel it out and test the slow flight characteristics. Our field has class D only 1200 above and I didn't want to just stay in the pattern, nor did I want to fly 20 miles away from the airport to get out from under it. After 40 minutes or so at altitude, staying above the airport the whole time, I descended back to pattern height. One practice approach slightly hot and then back around and down on our grass field with only a skip or two and I was grinnin' like a fool. It certainly flies like nothing else I have flown. Very sensitive but easy to control. Flying with a left-handed stick was such a non-issue that I forgot to even notice until I was back down and realized I hadn't done that before. Wonderful accelleration and power, even with 160 hp and a wood prop. You can sure feel those bumps though. Of course, on a first flight your senses are in overdrive, and you notice everything and worry about it. My final approach was over a black field, and even though it was early in the day I was pushed around a little. Trouble is, being the first flight I didn't know if it was turbulence or the tail falling off! Post flight inspection revealed no problems at all, although I did clean out the fuel screens again just to get rid of any building debris. I have been building, off and on, since 1994, and have been on this list nearly the whole time. Thanks to everyone who contributes to this magnificent library of knowledge, and of course to Matt for operating it. I won't be ready to fly to Osh this year (and my wife wants to drive one last time) but next year I'll be there, and maybe Sun&Fun too. There's a continent out there that needs to be explored! cheers Curt :-)) <= RV grin RV-6 C-GACR FLYING! direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:22:27 AM PST US From: "Tom Gummo" Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh housing? --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" I have just ONE word for you. FOAM EAR PLUGS Who said I can count. :-) Tom Gummo Apple Valley, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Phillips" Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh housing? > --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips > > Aw, c'mon- the yodelling is just as normal as the mosquitos. > > Can't wait t'get baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaack to Camp Schooooooooooooooller....... > Yoodle-Aaaaaaaaaaaa, yoodleaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaeeeeeeeeeeeeeoooooooooooh!!!!!! > 8-) > > From the PossumWorks in the TN alps > Mark do not archive > > Alex Peterson wrote: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > > > > The downside is some SOB yo-dels on the PA at 0700 every > > > morning. > > > > This SOB is why there should be concealed carry allowed as OSH. That is > > far and away the dumbest thing about OSH camping along the flight line. > > Thunderstorms are normal - this yodelling yahoo is not. > > > > Alex Peterson > > Maple Grove, MN > > RV6-A N66AP hours > > > > www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson > > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:53:37 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help From: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com 06/04/2003 09:24:02 AM --> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com Try Hylomar structural adhesive. It is aluminum in color and we use it to stick countersunk washers to composite fairings. An added incentive is, is that it has aluminum in it and will allow for the electrical path to not be disturbed in you application and will prevent corrosion on what you are applying the shim stock to. Regards Glenn Williams A&P Fort Worth, Texas ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:53:58 AM PST US From: UFOBUCK@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help --> RV-List message posted by: UFOBUCK@aol.com Auto body shops have some very high quality adhesives that they use to bond body panels. It is surprising how much of a new car is held together with glue instead of welds. They might have the end of a tube that they will give you. It is available at auto paint stores also but rather expensive. A good fit of the parts to be bonded is all important. ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:05:35 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help From: "Chris Stone" --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Stone" RTV silicone works well since it flexes with the substrate. It also bonds well to nonporous materials. C. Stone RV-8 wings -----Original Message----- From: P M Condon [mailto:pcondon@mitre.org] Subject: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help --> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ? Adhesive is my only solution for this. Don't have any pro-seal left over.....don't want to mail order anything unless I have to. (My wife not only says hi to the UPS, FED-X, Emery Air Express delivery guys....she knows their names......hmmm) direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 11:01:19 AM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: Camping at OSH --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North I found a fairly light camping aluminum cot at REI that seems to work very nicely. Weighs 7 lbs folds up to about 2 ft by 8". I haven't used it at OSH but I have used it for several local fly/camping jaunts. I Certainly agree that a good tent is the most important element. Hope to see ya all there. I usually camp under the trees over by the antiquer's. The yodelling isn't quite so loud there, although one old guy does a fairly good rooster about the same time. do not archive W ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 11:50:13 AM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dana Overall Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" > > High cost drill.....................Low cost drill................... Well, > I've got to throw my free (get what ya pay for) advice. With the new pre > punched kits, "at least through wing contruction", 99% of all drilling you > are going to do is ream prepunched holes. I used my el super cheapo, > Walmart special DeVilbiss air drill that I bought as a package deal with > sanding and Cut-off tool for dirt cheap. Heck, looking back on it, I > haven't even bought any new #30 or #40 bits since the original half dozen > each.............. > > If I had to actually drill a buttload of "real" holes, I'm sure I would feel > different. We don't drill anymore all we do is throw some oil in the drill > and ream on. > > > Dana Overall > Richmond, KY > RV-7 slider/fuselage > http://rvflying.tripod.com > do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 12:35:59 PM PST US From: Chris W Subject: RV-List: static port location --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W I noticed it a catalog the other day a pitot with a static port on the side of it. Has anyone used this kind of a static port. It seems like it would make the plumbing a bit easier to me. Any down sides? -- Chris Woodhouse 3147 SW 127th St. Oklahoma City, OK 73170 405-691-5206 chrisw@programmer.net N35 20.492' W97 34.342' "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 12:39:12 PM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" >From: "Jeff Dowling" >I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which >opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm. For goodness sake, just like the weight of reducer in paint, let's not even go there. Been there, don't even want the shirt!! Dana Overall Richmond, KY RV-7 slider/fuselage http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 01:11:39 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hello Jeff, This kind of short cutting attitude is easy to fall into but generally ill advised to make a habit of. I don't think this procedure should be done at all. Certainly not for structural applications! Just because the nose of a dimple die can be forced through a too small hole and produce a dimple does not mean that the resultant dimple will conform to the design requirements. A dimple can be made without drilling at all, don't ask![:-{! Go ahead try it on some scrap but remember to dig the punched out scrap out of the female dimple die somehow. The probability is that the dimpled hole starting out smaller than the called out #30, #40 (or #41 by some folks) drill size will suffer too much stretch leaving the hole edge prone to stress cracking at some time in the future. Try to keep in mind that the aircraft industry has developed the riveting process through combination of a series trial and error steps and solidly based engineering logic over many years. Resizing holes when there are so many of them, might seem at first glance to be worth avoiding. If one absolutely must save some time and effort during construction consider not priming all those Alclad parts or some such step in construction. Worth the work or not, I primed mine. If time and effort is in such short supply consider buying a built kit or quitting now because down the road there will be many more time consuming and effort oriented steps to accomplish on the road to the runway. There are books available that explain the background and current status of accepted practices for all aspects of modern aircraft construction and design. Some of these publications might seem to be expensive or dull and heavy reading, They are very useful as references for topics such as this and a must for the less experienced or novice builder. Happy drilling, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" > > I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which > opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Dana Overall > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" > > > > High cost drill.....................Low cost drill................... > Well, > > I've got to throw my free (get what ya pay for) advice. With the new pre > > punched kits, "at least through wing contruction", 99% of all drilling you > > are going to do is ream prepunched holes. I used my el super cheapo, > > Walmart special DeVilbiss air drill that I bought as a package deal with > > sanding and Cut-off tool for dirt cheap. Heck, looking back on it, I > > haven't even bought any new #30 or #40 bits since the original half dozen > > each.............. > > > > If I had to actually drill a buttload of "real" holes, I'm sure I would > feel > > different. We don't drill anymore all we do is throw some oil in the > drill > > and ream on. > > > > > > Dana Overall > > Richmond, KY > > RV-7 slider/fuselage > > http://rvflying.tripod.com > > do not archive > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 01:40:03 PM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" Probably doesn't debur the holes either. A close look should reveal tiny tears in the metal that could lead to something serious under stress and time. Is the plane unsafe this year or 5 years from now? Don't know, but it is not the approved method of construction by the designer. That is all I am saying. I would like to know the plane's call number so I don't one day take a ride in it. But that is probably not necessary because I am sure the lack of building to designer's specs is noted in the construction/builder's book/manual. Larry in Indiana Do Not Archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" > > I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which > opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm. > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 01:46:46 PM PST US From: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" But wait a minute, if you don't ream the holes, the plane will be heavier! Doc ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" > > > >From: "Jeff Dowling" > >I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which > >opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm. > > > For goodness sake, just like the weight of reducer in paint, let's not even > go there. Been there, don't even want the shirt!! > > > Dana Overall > Richmond, KY > RV-7 slider/fuselage > http://rvflying.tripod.com > do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 02:10:14 PM PST US From: Tedd McHenry Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry > I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which > opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm. I strongly advise against that. I was told by one of Van's engineers that--according to their tests--the punching process work hardens the material around the hole, making it susceptible to fatigue cracking. It's necessary to match drill or ream the hole to remove the work-hardened material, otherwise you WILL greatly shorten the fatigue life of the part. That is in fact the only reason Van's punches the holes undersize in the first place. I have no idea what effect stretching the material around the hole with a dimple die would have, but I find it hard to believe that it would not further shorten the fatigue life. Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 02:27:39 PM PST US From: Rob Prior Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior That's okay, it'll be offset by the reducer that evaporates out of the paint... 8-) Dr. Kevin P. Leathers wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" > > But wait a minute, if you don't ream the holes, the plane will be heavier! > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dana Overall" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" >> >>>From: "Jeff Dowling" >>>I know a guy building a 7 that doesnt even ream. He just dimples which >>>opens the holes enough to get the rivets in. Hmmmmmm. >> >>For goodness sake, just like the weight of reducer in paint, let's not >>even go there. Been there, don't even want the shirt!! >> >>Dana Overall >>Richmond, KY >>RV-7 slider/fuselage >>http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 02:45:03 PM PST US From: "Curt Hoffman" Subject: Re: RV-List: Camping at OSH --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" I've camped many times with a tent. Severe thunderstorms sometimes do me in but then I crawl into the car to dry off. I unfortunately usually don't get there until the end of the week so find myself more toward the road. Once we got there so late on Saturday we had to camp up against the fence right by the main highway. A little noisy in the am. Last two years a buddy and me took a pop up and got there mid week. That was nice. This year for the first time I will be flying in and camping inside. My plane is old enough that it qualifies as a contemporary classic so I get to camp in the vintage area. That will be great for being right there in the heart of things although I am a little worried about access to ice, store stuff and so on. I don't recollect there being anything without walking back into Scholler to the Red Barn. I'm also constrained a little on how much I can carry in the plane. More by volume than weight but at least the tent, sleeping bag, air mattress, chair, lantern, and a cooler will make it. Might have to go visit some friends if we get a real gully washer. Anyway- 5320W will be on the flight line this year if nothing goes wrong. Maybe someday the RV9. Curt Hoffman RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail 1968 Mustang 302 convertible Piper Cherokee N5320W ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" Subject: RV-List: Camping at OSH ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 04:43:20 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: Camping at OSH --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 05:44 PM 6/4/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" > >Anyway- 5320W will be on the flight line this year if nothing goes wrong. >Maybe someday the RV9. MAYBE?? What kind of an attitude is that? :-( do not archive K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 05:13:21 PM PST US From: "Elsa & Henry" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Reamer? Not drill anymore --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" >The probability is that the dimpled hole starting out smaller than the >called out #30, #40 (or #41 by some folks) drill size will suffer too much >stretch leaving the hole edge prone to stress cracking at some time in the >future. I found that the typical #40 drilled hole in .025" Alcad stretches from nominal .098" dia. to .106" dia.due to dimpling action. That is why it is so important to de-burr the hole after drilling prior to dimpling so micro cracks do not appear in the stretched hole edge. I also found, from high magnification checking, that el-cheapo dimple dies exacerbate microcracks compared to two other 3/32" dies I have tried, the best made by those nice people in Iowa Cheers!!---Henry ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 09:01:16 PM PST US From: chris m Subject: RV-List: Tail wheel parts --> RV-List message posted by: chris m My RV6 tail wheel is not locking in . I disassembled tail wheel assembly and found the reason the tail wheel would not lock in when I taxied straight. The 3 little bits in the tail wheel assembly are stuffed. I looked on plans but could not find part numbers. They are the 3 small parts including the tiny spring that locks and unlocks the tail wheel when you want it /not want it to lock in. Does any one know the part numbers Chris and Susie VH-MUM ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 10:45:23 PM PST US From: "aronsond" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help --> RV-List message posted by: "aronsond" If the application is not in a high heat area, try JB Weld. It requires you to scuff the parts a bit. Real strong stuff. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "P M Condon" Subject: RV-List: Re: Adhesive for non-structural metal-to-metal - need help > --> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon > > Can anyone recommend a adhesive for a small piece of SS, .012 thick and > about 1 by 9 inches glued to aluminum ? Adhesive is my only solution > for this. Don't have any pro-seal left over.....don't want to mail order > anything unless I have to. (My wife not only says hi to the UPS, FED-X, > Emery Air Express delivery guys....she knows their names......hmmm) > >