Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:59 AM - El cheapo tools on the web. (Dana Overall)
2. 06:00 AM - Harmon Rocket TV special on Satellite Channel 232 (George Nuse)
3. 08:04 AM - Re: Bakersfield BBQ (MeangreenRV4@aol.com)
4. 08:41 AM - engine preservation (Frazier, Vincent A)
5. 10:36 AM - Re: engine preservation (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
6. 11:17 AM - Re: [rv8list] RV-8 Canopy lock (Bill VonDane)
7. 12:56 PM - From a non bauxite miner. (Rob W M Shipley)
8. 01:37 PM - Re: Re: [rv8list] RV-8 Canopy lock (RV_8 Pilot)
9. 02:41 PM - Re: engine preservation (Doug Gray)
10. 03:15 PM - Approved ()
11. 03:18 PM - Versatile Designer (Larry Pardue)
12. 03:27 PM - Listers down under (MICK MULLER)
13. 03:47 PM - Approved ()
14. 04:23 PM - Virus Alert (Paul Besing)
15. 06:04 PM - Re: Virus Alert (Jerry Springer)
16. 06:57 PM - tip up canopy skin and forward fuse skin abutt. (Amit Dagan)
17. 07:13 PM - Re: Approved (Lenleg@aol.com)
18. 07:13 PM - Re:From a Non Bauxite Miner (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
19. 07:43 PM - Re: Virus Alert (Paul Besing)
20. 08:20 PM - Re: Approved ()
21. 10:09 PM - fuel gauge sale (Clyde Rosenvall)
Message 1
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| Subject: | El cheapo tools on the web. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Af friend of mine just posted this on another aviation list. Looks like
Harbor Freight quality but they do have boatload of cheap tools.
http://www.dropshippedtools.com/store.asp
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Harmon Rocket TV special on Satellite Channel 232 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Nuse" <gnuse@attbi.com>
According to the "Fine Channel" web site, the show is on channel 232 on 6/5 11:30am,
6/6 9:30pm, 6/7 12:30am & 9:30am
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bakersfield BBQ |
--> RV-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4@aol.com
In a message dated 6/3/2003 8:29:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
t.gummo@verizon.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> Hey MeanGreen,
>
> What was the count of RVs and Rockets at your BBQ??
>
> The turn out looked very good. My count was 30+ RVs and 12+ Rockets.
>
> While a little expensive, the food was great.
>
> Tom Gummo
> "Air Boss"
> Apple Valley Air Fair
> June 8th - Sunday (This Sunday)
>
>
> do not archive
>
Our turn out was light compared to the past but still was not that bad. We
all had a great time. As far as the price goes we waffled back and forth,
normally we have been $12.00 but two things came to play, 1st was we had to pay
a
lot more for the meat, all due to the "Mad Cow Disease" in Canada and 2nd was we
low on change at the time. Still this is our chapters only fund raiser and
everybody was very understanding. Good luck at the Apple Valley Air Fair, I will
due my best to attend.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV4
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | engine preservation |
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Guys,
Being a lab geek for 20 years means that I know a little about drying things...
like engines. Sure you can fill the crankcase with oil if you want to. Kinda
messy when it runs out of all the holes you forgot to plug though. And it doesn't
necessarily remove the moisture!!!!!
Here's what I suggest... YMMV. Put fresh oil in the engine or just drain all of
it out. Take out all of the spark plugs, actually all of the engine openings
should be open for best results. Get a couple giant garbage bags or make the
equivalent from plastic sheeting and duct tape. Put the engine in carefully so
as not to tear the bag. Toss in several bags of drierite (see the website).
Seal the bag. Monitor the indicator every few weeks and rejunvenate the drierite
as needed by baking it in a oven as shown below.
The drierite will turn from blue to pink as it absorbs water. Water can only come
from the engine or a leak in the bag. You should reach a point where the
drierite stays blue indefinietly. When it does your engine is bone dry.
http://www.drierite.com/catalog3/page16.cfm
If you do this right, I GUARANTEE that your engine will stay absolutely dry. Period!
And it's really quite easy to do.
Vince Frazier
1946 Stinson, NC97535, FOR SALE (the world's nicest Stinson... really!)
F-1H Rocket, "Shangrila", N540VF reserved,
<http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
***************************************************************************************
A Sidebar on Drierite Desiccant
The desiccant I've been using is from Drierite, PO Box 460, Xenia, OH 45385, phone: 513-376-2927. Their web site with information on all their desiccants is at www.drierite.com.
I'm using "Indicating Drierite" which is Stock # 23005 and size 8 mesh. The composition
is 97% calcium sulfate (CASO4) and 3% cobalt chloride (CoCl2). The
cobalt chloride is the indicator which is blue when it's dry and absorbent and
pink when it's lost its water absorbing ability.
The spent Drierite desiccant can be regenerated by spreading it in 1/4- 1/2" layers
in several glass baking dishes and baking in a kitchen convection oven for
2-4 hours. Occasionally open the oven door to release moisture vapor and stir
the desiccant in the pans. The desiccant should turn blue as the water is released.
The instructions from Drierite on their web site are slightly different... "the
granules may be spread in layers one granule deep and heated for 1 hour at 210
C or 425 F. The regenerated material should be placed in the the original glass
or metal container and sealed while hot."
Spreading the Drierite "one granule deep" isn't very practical. My way around
this was to layer it thicker, mix occasionally with a wooden spoon, and cook it
longer. It seems to work.
The Drierite may turn blue though before it is fully regenerated. Make sure you
cook it long enough!
Let the pans and Drierite cool enough so the now active desiccant can be safely
"poured" from the pans into a glass container. Apparently the glass container
the Drierite comes in is made of borosilicate ("Pyrex") because I haven't had
one break from the heat yet. Try not to make a mess! You'll need a large funnel
with a large hole. Making a funnel out of letter size paper will do in
a pinch.
After a couple of times through this process, the colors becomes more pale and
the ability to distinguish between light blue and pale pink becomes more difficult.
It's always a good idea to label desiccant as "good" and "bad" or "wet"
and "dry" so that when you pick up a bottle, you don't have to guess about its
state of hydration
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: engine preservation |
06/05/2003 12:03:34 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Vince and all
Sure you could put the engine in a bag keep the engine full of oil and
place dessicant bags and a moisture indicator to keep it dry. However in my
humble opinion for what it's worth this is overkill. Your system works but
I have personally tore down an engine that was in a field (outside) with no
oil in the engine. After tear down the complete engine was rust free and
corrosion free except for some minor surface corrsoion on the outer
accessory and sump area. I reccommend to just purchase the spark plug hole
dessicant modules and keep the oil in the sump to your desired level and
once every month or so turn the crank to keep things loose. And of course
keep the engine in a garage or a protected area. All feel free to do what
you want all that I am saying is when it comes time to get the engine ready
for flight you will be dealing with a lot of work to get it ready for
flight and it will probably seep for days untill all the excess oil is
removed from the orifices it was not supposed to go into in the first
place. If you have a carb, oil can seep into it and cause fouling if you
keep it connected while preserved and the same goes for fuel injection.
These are just my thoughts thrown into this thread.
Regards
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Tx.
8A N81GW (finishing)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] RV-8 Canopy lock |
"vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>"
<001a01c32b6e$bdcf9240$6601a8c0@j.stratman.ks.ok.cox.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
If you not in a hurry, I am working on a new canopy lock that will be relatively
hidden when not in use, and will be cable operated from the forward baggage
compartment...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ N8WV
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Stratman
Subject: Re: [rv8list] RV-8 Canopy lock
Brian,
Thanks for the info. I'll try to search for a picture of that arrangement. On
the Turtle deck issue. I don't know if the vibration is from the airframe or
is being transferred to the skin via the skirt. The skirt fits very tight on
the deck, but as I've been told, shop fit is different than flying fit. First
step is insulating with high density foam ala Orndorf.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk
To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: [rv8list] RV-8 Canopy lock
>Listers,
>
>I am looking for any info on a lock for the canopy slide rail. This is an
>external lock instead of cutting through the skirt. Preferably i could
>install my own lock set to cut down on the number of keys I need to carry.
>Anybody have a source??
>
>Chuck Stratman
>N118JR 13hrs.
>
Chuck,
One of the best setups that I've seen is a trigger lock type of concept.
Fabricate a two piece unit that clamps onto the slider rail, that is locked
together with a padlock. Stu Macurdy's RV8 has one and he made it from some
scrap angle and pieces of plate stock. He attaches it to keep the canopy
fully shut, or attaches it further aft on the rail to allow the canopy to be
cracked open for ventilation. He may have notched the rail to engage mating
tangs on the lock to keep it from sliding down the rail. There are pics on
the web....somewhere...maybe on vansaircraft.net. Really though, any form
of "lock" for our canopies is there to keep honest people honest. A
committed crook will just bust/cut/tear/rip/shred whatever gets in his way
to snatch your panel goodies. I just use a canopy cover to keep prying eyes
out of my airplane and it's worked OK so far. There are many opinions on
this subject...none of them are the "right" answer. You just have to decide
on what gives you the greatest comfort factor for your airplane.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
341 hrs.
Message 7
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| Subject: | From a non bauxite miner. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
"The kits prior to pre-punched also had aluminum that was NOT cut to size,
not bent to shape... and, many (most?) of the lightening holes were not cut
out (wing ribs, for example). If the pre-punched crowd thinks that the only
difference is the holes in the aluminum, they are WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. The
friggin aluminum was not bent, was not the right size, AND it had no holes.
Drilling the holes was the easy part you guys, and if you don't get that,
you don't get it!"
Oh my!!! No need to shout I'm sure I had to cut a couple of bits of angle and
trim a few things .........
Seriously. I have grave doubts that if I'd had to go through all the trials and
difficulties of the early builders I'd be seeing completion on the (very distant)
horizon.
Of course this doesn't mean it isn't fun to tease you guys.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] RV-8 Canopy lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
From the baggage compartment! Excellent idea... just not sure I want
someone breaking the canopy to steal something from the cockpit.
do not archive
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>If you not in a hurry, I am working on a new canopy lock that will be
>relatively hidden when not in use, and will be cable operated from the
>forward baggage compartment...
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A ~ N8WV
>www.vondane.com
>www.creativair.com
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: engine preservation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
I agree with both comments....but engines are expensive, best reduce the
risk.
Don't forget about the free oxygen inside the sealed bag. This would be
consumed in time through oxidation but if eliminated by flooding the
bag with Nitrogen or vacuuming prior to sealing the initial round of
corrosion would be prevented.
Doug Gray
RV6 fuse
Sydney Australia
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Please see the attached file.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Versatile Designer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
Listers:
An item from the new "Soaring Magazine"
Distance: 500-Kilometer Cross-Country (310.7 SM)
Richard Van Grunsven; Ventus 2CM;
Narromine, Australia
Goal: 300-Kilometer Goal Flight (186.4 SM)
Richard Van Grunsven; Ventus 2CM;
Narromine, Australia
These are two of the three legs of the international Diamond Badge. The
third leg is the alitude leg which requires an altitude gain of 5000
meters (16,404 feet).
The Ventus 2CM is a high performance, ultra modern, motor glider.
The Dutchman is having a little fun.
I noticed he is also registered in the transcontinental Return to Kitty
Hawk glider race this summer. Those of you at a stop could maybe come
out and say howdy!
http://members.aol.com/JPAviation/RTKH.htm
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Message 12
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| Subject: | Listers down under |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM@bigpond.com>
Greetings Fellow Listers,
For those of you not in Australia, bear with me a moment. For those of
you who are in Australia, I was wondering if we might form an informal
subgroup to group buy things from the States. Especially for bulky items
like the wings of my RV9A that I am about to order. I really envy you guys
in the States who can just pop down to your local aviation store for bits -
here its like getting blood out of a stone. Contact me off list if
interested.
Mick Muller
mullerpharm@bigpond.com
Comanche 180 VH-TEW
RV9A HS just finished
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: <3Crandy@rv-8.com>
Please see the attached file.
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I have received a virus from a list member that automatically sends out the virus,
and just noticed that Larry Bowen's email just tried to send it to the list.
Scan your hard drives folks!
The subject is "Re: Approved"
do not archive
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Lot of that going around. There are attachments with it but thankfully
the RV-list strips the attachments.
do not archive
Paul Besing wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
> I have received a virus from a list member that automatically sends out the virus,
and just noticed that Larry Bowen's email just tried to send it to the list.
Scan your hard drives folks!
>
> The subject is "Re: Approved"
>
> do not archive
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | tip up canopy skin and forward fuse skin abutt. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Twice in the manual it says to butt the canopy frame skin and the forward
fuselage skin.
The archives are evidence that this will cause the tip up to resist tipping
up, or in other words: the abutted skins will lock the canopy in the closed
position.
The archives further suggest to bevel the skins like so:
----- ---------
___\ \____
fuse canopy
Is this still the best method to solve the interference problem ?
Thanks,
Amit.
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Larry
Did you send this out? It says to see the attached file. Looks suspicious??
Len
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re:From a Non Bauxite Miner |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Our first RV-4 was serial number 126,built from 1981-83.
I had to drill and ream ALL the spar flange strips and everything else. We
built it in 18 months(My wife and I , with help from a few friends). It was the
eighth kit-built RV-4.
The second kit (Bought in August 1986,#1191)had the spar flange strips
drilled,along with bulkhead F-404.
We BUILDERS !!!
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
do not archive
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Yeah, but I received the email directly, with the attachement, and it
appeared to come from someone on this list who does not even have the virus
in the first place! Sneaky little buggers use other email addresses on the
infectee computer.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Virus Alert
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Lot of that going around. There are attachments with it but thankfully
> the RV-list strips the attachments.
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
> >
> > I have received a virus from a list member that automatically sends out
the virus, and just noticed that Larry Bowen's email just tried to send it
to the list. Scan your hard drives folks!
> >
> > The subject is "Re: Approved"
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on RV-10)
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Kitlog Builder's Log Software
> > http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: <randall@edt.com>
Please see the attached file.
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Clyde Rosenvall" <clyde@gtelco.net>
One capacitive type fuel gauge with converters. Part # IE FL-2C from Van's 345.00.
Installed but never used-first 250.00 takes.Clyde Rosenvall-Box 737-Gunnison,
UT 84634. 435-528-3295.
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