Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:09 AM - Re: fuel gauge sale (Jody Edwards)
2. 06:42 AM - Garmin GPS III Pilot For Sale (Ed Bundy)
3. 08:08 AM - engine preservation part 2 (Frazier, Vincent A)
4. 08:13 AM - Re: static port location (Kevin Horton)
5. 08:18 AM - Ohio Pancake Fly-In (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
6. 10:14 AM - Apple Valley, Calif Air Fair (APV) (Tom Gummo)
7. 10:17 AM - Van's Tachometer (Parker43rp@aol.com)
8. 10:30 AM - close quarter dimple for platenuts (rpmiller)
9. 10:50 AM - Vans Oil Pressure Gauge (JDaniel343@aol.com)
10. 10:51 AM - Vans Oil pressure gauge (JDaniel343@aol.com)
11. 10:59 AM - Re: close quarter dimple for platenuts (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
12. 11:06 AM - Fw: static port location (Elsa & Henry)
13. 11:15 AM - Re: Vans Oil pressure gauge (BELTEDAIR@aol.com)
14. 11:56 AM - Fw: Apple Valley, Calif Air Fair (APV) (John Starn)
15. 12:07 PM - Re: close quarter dimple for platenuts (terence.gannon@telus.net)
16. 01:05 PM - Propeller Building (Bordelon, Greg)
17. 01:17 PM - Re: Van's Tachometer (Chuck Weyant)
18. 01:17 PM - -8 simple VFR panel input request (Jack Blomgren)
19. 03:31 PM - RV6A brake line routing from F-6122 to exit the airframe (Ralph E. Capen)
20. 04:07 PM - FW: [rv8list] Plz. Read This (Martin Sobel)
21. 04:20 PM - Re: FW: [rv8list] Plz. Read This (Ken Balch)
22. 05:29 PM - Re: RV6A brake line routing from F-6122 to exit the airframe (George McNutt)
23. 05:30 PM - Re: Van's Tachometer (George McNutt)
24. 05:59 PM - Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge (Denis Walsh)
25. 06:54 PM - Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge (Dave Bristol)
26. 07:01 PM - Aerosport rocker covers for sale (Doug Weiler)
27. 07:25 PM - Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge (Mike Mckenna)
28. 08:04 PM - Langley RV Fly-in Saturday (Tedd McHenry)
29. 08:04 PM - Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge (Doug Weiler)
30. 08:12 PM - Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge (Alex Peterson)
31. 08:20 PM - Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge (Jerry Springer)
32. 09:04 PM - Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge (Denis Walsh)
33. 09:11 PM - Atitude Indicator Interference? ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: fuel gauge sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jody Edwards <jodyedwards@juno.com>
Hello Clyde, I"ll take the fuel gauge if its still available. Thanks,
Jody Edwards jodyedwards@juno.com
On Thu, 5 Jun 2003 22:05:34 -0700 "Clyde Rosenvall" <clyde@gtelco.net>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Clyde Rosenvall" <clyde@gtelco.net>
>
> One capacitive type fuel gauge with converters. Part # IE FL-2C from
> Van's 345.00. Installed but never used-first 250.00 takes.Clyde
> Rosenvall-Box 737-Gunnison, UT 84634. 435-528-3295.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Garmin GPS III Pilot For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@velocitus.net>
I have a Garmin GPS III Pilot for sale. Less than 1 year old, barely used.
Unit is in absolute brand new condition. Comes with original box, quick
reference card, operation manual, (which has some hi-lighting and notes in
the margins) adjustable dash mounting bracket, and also includes a custom
power/data cable. This was made from a Pflug connector and has bare wires
on the other end for hookup to ship's power and an autopilot. Unit works
great with a Navaid.
$400 includes U.S. shipping.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
RV6A 600 hours
Message 3
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| Subject: | engine preservation part 2 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP
Vince and all
Sure you could put the engine in a bag keep the engine full of oil and
place dessicant bags and a moisture indicator to keep it dry. However in my
humble opinion for what it's worth this is overkill. SNIP
I agree! The info I posted was an alterative for those who just gotta do something.
IMHO, filling the engine with oil is a poor idea, just like Glenn said. Way too
messy and you'll have oil in places it doesn't need to be!
You'll notice I didn't actually say what I do to my engines. Well, I put them
in my shop which has heat and central air, and don't worry any more about them.
However, if I had no choice and had to store my motor in my damp barn, I'd
drain the oil, and store it inside a big bag with plenty of desiccant. That drierite
is CHEAP peace of mind for those who need it.
IMHO, those desiccant plugs are virtually worthless... too small even if the engine
is in a bag. If the engine isn't in a bag, those desiccant plugs are absolutely
100% worthless.
Have fun,
Vince
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: static port location |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
>I noticed it a catalog the other day a pitot with a static port on the
>side of it. Has anyone used this kind of a static port. It seems like
>it would make the plumbing a bit easier to me. Any down sides?
>
>
>--
>Chris Woodhouse
There are a number of RVs flying with these pitot-static tubes. The static
source will have different errors than if you used Van's pop rivet at his
recommended location. But, ever aircraft is unique, and it is impossible
to say which static source will have the smallest errors on your aircraft.
So, if you like that pitot-static tube, I say go for it. Once you are
flying you can do the flight testing to figure out how much error is in
your static system. If you find the error to be unacceptable then you can
experiment with Van's static source.
Or do like many RVers - don't bother measuring the error at all. Depending
on which way the error is, you will just think you have an unusually fast
RV (and wonder why you always seem to have a headwind), or an unusually
slow RV (and thank your lucky stars that you often seem to have tailwinds).
Kevin Horton
Message 5
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| Subject: | Ohio Pancake Fly-In |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
List, Aero-Flyers will have a Pancake Breakfast Sat. 6-7-03 at 10G (Holmes County)
in beautiful Amish Country. Free Gas will be drawn every hour for people
who fly in!!
I sure would like to see some RV's come.... if anyone is looking for a
destination.
Do Not Archive
Tom in Ohio
Message 6
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"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>,
"Rocket List" <rocket-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Apple Valley, Calif Air Fair (APV) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Everybody,
APV is having a Air Fair Sunday June 8th, 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM.
$5 a person or $10 a car load, free for those who fly in.
Static displays include:
C-46 China Doll
F8F Bearcat
SNJ (T-6)
B-25
An-2 Colt (Big Russian Biplane)
Casa ____ (Spanish Jet Trainer, sorry but I can't begin to spell the name)
T-34
T-28 and A-1 Skyraider (are on the fence)
Aerial displays:
Acro Demo by "Nash" , I think he is number one ranked in the US.
5 Juga Jets - Formation display, non-acro
3 Pitts Biplanes - Formation display, non-acro
Unscheduled but possible THE FAMOUS SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA VAN's RV AIR FORCE.
(The FAA will be here so be prepared to show your paperwork as the airspace
has been waivered for ONE ten minute Acro display.) Two FAA inspectors will
be on hand to inspect the ONE acro pilot.
Marine Helicopters who just happen to be passing by on the way home from a
exercise.
Rides in the Bushmaster (Ford Trimotor clone) are available.
The air show part will be very small but there should be lots of food. So,
if you are looking for someplace to go Sunday for the hundred dollar
hamburger, try APV. I will be the "AirBoss" on the Unicom freq 122.8. So,
give me a call as you get into the local area for current activities. If we
have an aerial event in progress, I might have to ask you to hold outside
the airspace for a couple of minutes. There is only one event scheduled
each half hour so there should be plenty of time for arrivals and
departures. Also, for departing, I will be asking you to help schedule your
leaving around the "show".
The weather the last couple of days has been very warm to HOT. So bring a
hat and sunscreen, etc,
Hope to see you there. Come and have a good time.
Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
AirBoss for Apple Valley Air Fair
and
All Around Nice Guy
Please
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Van's Tachometer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Parker43rp@aol.com
Listers:
Has anyone installed Van's tach with the 12in. extension cable? I have found
that in the installation on my RV-8A, the cable with the tach generator
attached is at least 4in. longer than the distance from the back of the engine
to
the firewall. A straight installation would put it 4in. into the front baggage
compartment. Installation of the generator on the firewall would seem to
require nearly a 90 degree bend in the cable, which in my opinion would probably
cause premature cable failure. I am considering having the cable shortened
at an auto shop that repairs speedometers.
Ray
Message 8
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| Subject: | close quarter dimple for platenuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
I've been using a plate nut and a flat head screw to dimple along the spar flange
where I can't get the squeezer/dies to fit. Does anyone know if the avery
close quarter dimple set does a better job, or is it the same thing with an allen
head flat head screw? Also a couple of the holes for screws are too close
to the flange strips, (I'm amazed I didn't hit them with the drill,) if I locate
the new holes at 2.5 x D center to center with the old holes is this the right
minimum for material?
Message 9
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| Subject: | Vans Oil Pressure Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
Has anyone had trouble with Vans Oil Pressure Gauge?
My gauge reads ok on startup but once in the air oil pressure slowly varies form
80 to 40 to 60 to 25 to 40, somtimes 0. I have an idiot light installed (mostly
to remind me to shut the master off) it never lights up. A buddy of mine and
I installed a tee and ran the electric sender and a manual oil pressure gauge
of a common line. Manual gauge read 80 electric showed 20. I've checked for
loose wire and such. Anyone have any ideas?
John Danielson
RV-6 145 hrs.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Vans Oil pressure gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
By the way, I've already replace the sending unit with same results.
John Danielson
RV-6 145 hrs.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: close quarter dimple for platenuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
In a message dated 6/6/2003 1:32:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rpmiller@1usa.net writes:
>
> I've been using a plate nut and a flat head screw to dimple along the spar
> flange where I can't get the squeezer/dies to fit. Does anyone know if the
> avery close quarter dimple set does a better job, or is it the same thing with
> an allen head flat head screw? Also a couple of the holes for screws are too
> close to the flange strips, (I'm amazed I didn't hit them with the drill,)
> if I locate the new holes at 2.5 x D center to center with the old holes is
> this the right minimum for material?
>
>
RP,
I think that on some of those I machine countersunk the corner of a piece of
steel to the correct size for the screw and used that as the female die. Then
I put the male die in a swivel rivet attachment for the gun. (I think Avery
C-Riveter comes with one)
Avery close quarter dies are the same as regular dies except smaller
diameter.
If this doesn't make sense, give me a call.
Minimum distance between rivets is 3 diameters, center to center.
You might want to call Van's....Gotta be careful in the spar department.
Hal Benjamin - RV-4
Long Island, NY
Fuselage on jig.
(631)385-6016
Message 12
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| Subject: | static port location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Chris,
You would still have to plumb it back to the instruments and it seems to me
it would be easier to run the static line in the fuselage a-la-Van's, than
running it in the wing and fuse.
Cheers!! Henry Hore
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
> >
> >I noticed it a catalog the other day a pitot with a static port on the
> >side of it. Has anyone used this kind of a static port. It seems like
> >it would make the plumbing a bit easier to me. Any down sides?
> >
> >
> >--
> >Chris Woodhouse
>
>
> There are a number of RVs flying with these pitot-static tubes. The
static
> source will have different errors than if you used Van's pop rivet at his
> recommended location. But, ever aircraft is unique, and it is impossible
> to say which static source will have the smallest errors on your aircraft.
>
> So, if you like that pitot-static tube, I say go for it. Once you are
> flying you can do the flight testing to figure out how much error is in
> your static system. If you find the error to be unacceptable then you can
> experiment with Van's static source.
>
> Or do like many RVers - don't bother measuring the error at all.
Depending
> on which way the error is, you will just think you have an unusually fast
> RV (and wonder why you always seem to have a headwind), or an unusually
> slow RV (and thank your lucky stars that you often seem to have
tailwinds).
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Vans Oil pressure gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: BELTEDAIR@aol.com
If your talking the Ispro gages and senders try Stewart Warner or some real
type. Ours went to 0 indication just as we reached on top, what a sick feeling,
Tach was working as the engine was running, all coolant temps normal and no
oil on the winshield so on we went. Changed the sender within 2 weeks same
thing.. No Good.
Jess Meyers
Message 14
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| Subject: | Apple Valley, Calif Air Fair (APV) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Ole Gummibear forgot the helo display at the south ramp, the car show and
the static R/C airplane display. There will be "People Choice" awards for
the cars, airplanes etc. The local fire dept. will have a "SLAM" display,
crashed cars, fire, CHP, police responce and a Mercy helo airlift. It's
going to be a great day. NO land, parking or entry fee for fly-ins. I'm
going to be on airplane parking duty at 122.8. KABONG. (GBA) 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; "Rocket List" <rocket-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Apple Valley, Calif Air Fair (APV)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> Everybody,
>
> APV is having a Air Fair Sunday June 8th, 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM.
> $5 a person or $10 a car load, free for those who fly in.
>
> Static displays include:
> C-46 China Doll
> F8F Bearcat
> SNJ (T-6)
> B-25
> An-2 Colt (Big Russian Biplane)
> Casa ____ (Spanish Jet Trainer, sorry but I can't begin to spell the name)
> T-34
> T-28 and A-1 Skyraider (are on the fence)
>
> Aerial displays:
> Acro Demo by "Nash" , I think he is number one ranked in the US.
> 5 Juga Jets - Formation display, non-acro
> 3 Pitts Biplanes - Formation display, non-acro
> Unscheduled but possible THE FAMOUS SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA VAN's RV AIR
FORCE.
> (The FAA will be here so be prepared to show your paperwork as the
airspace
> has been waivered for ONE ten minute Acro display.) Two FAA inspectors
will
> be on hand to inspect the ONE acro pilot.
> Marine Helicopters who just happen to be passing by on the way home from a
> exercise.
>
> Rides in the Bushmaster (Ford Trimotor clone) are available.
>
> The air show part will be very small but there should be lots of food.
So,
> if you are looking for someplace to go Sunday for the hundred dollar
> hamburger, try APV. I will be the "AirBoss" on the Unicom freq 122.8.
So,
> give me a call as you get into the local area for current activities. If
we
> have an aerial event in progress, I might have to ask you to hold outside
> the airspace for a couple of minutes. There is only one event scheduled
> each half hour so there should be plenty of time for arrivals and
> departures. Also, for departing, I will be asking you to help schedule
your
> leaving around the "show".
>
> The weather the last couple of days has been very warm to HOT. So bring a
> hat and sunscreen, etc,
>
> Hope to see you there. Come and have a good time.
>
> Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
> AirBoss for Apple Valley Air Fair
> and
> All Around Nice Guy
>
>
> Please
> do not archive
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: close quarter dimple for platenuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net
My experience with the close quarter dimpler from Avery has been mixed --
that's not necessarily a reflection on the product, but the physics involved.
You can get WAY more pressure with even a hand squeezer than you can get with
a fairly coarse grained allen head screw, and therefore any dimple you can
make with a hand/pneumatic squeezer will be 'crisper' than the close quarters
unit. Having said that the close quarters dimpling device does produce a
relatively acceptable dimple. One wonders, though, why Van wouldn't simply
have moved the three problem dimples (the ones with the flanges behind) a half
inch aft and saved the heartache.
Also, you will want to CLOSELY inspect the dimples after you've made them. In
my case, I notice some very small, but rather nasty cracks in the edge of the
hole after using the close quarters dimpler, which I subsequently had to file
and smooth, making the holes bigger and more irregular than I would like. I
suspect that's to do with the fact that the male surface of the die is not a
perfect match for the (female) surface of the plate nut, but I really don't
know.
Hope this helps! Best regards...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings, starting Fuse"
PS. Hey, finally, something I can actually CONTRIBUTE to the list...I usually
get questions answered, it's nice to be able to give something back.
Quoting rpmiller <rpmiller@1usa.net>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
> I've been using a plate nut and a flat head screw to dimple along the spar
> flange where I can't get the squeezer/dies to fit. Does anyone know if the
<snip>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Propeller Building |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
A query....
I am in the process of designing/building a fixed pitch propeller for
use on my airplane. I am using wood, fiberglass and carbon fiber
materials to construct the propeller. I am using Bates Engineering
PropPro software to perform the design calculations. I wanted to ask the
group if anyone else has experience he/she would willing to share in
making propellers? Anyone care to dialog?
Thanks, I can be reached privately.....
gbordelon@hess.com
Greg Bordelon
Houston TX
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tachometer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck@chuckdirect.com>
> Same thing here Ray except I'm doing an RV9A. Checked with the local
speedo shop and they want something like twenty bucks to shorten it. Must
be a reason Van's calls for it that long. Anyone know?
Chuck
> Has anyone installed Van's tach with the 12in. extension cable? I have
found
> that in the installation on my RV-8A, the cable with the tach generator
> attached is at least 4in. longer than the distance from the back of the
engine to
> the firewall. A straight installation would put it 4in. into the front
baggage
> compartment. Installation of the generator on the firewall would seem to
> require nearly a 90 degree bend in the cable, which in my opinion would
probably
> cause premature cable failure. I am considering having the cable
shortened
> at an auto shop that repairs speedometers.
Message 18
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| Subject: | -8 simple VFR panel input request |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Builder/flyers,
Your experience, design (drawings), cautions, etc. wanted. Picture my
current thinking for above subject line. Center removable (read
replaceable) panel grouped around a "four pack" (TAS, ALT, T&B, VSI) near
center; with com & transponder at left (nearer throttle hand) with Digitrak
& mag compass above these. Reserve blank upper right for ball swivelled
Garmin 196. Engine indication lower right and below w/switches, breakers in
logical placements. Using no vacuum! If you enjoy panel design please
contribute to this new thread for a moderate cost, "transitional" (hand held
glass) panel. Thanks in advance.
Jack Blomgren
-8 Canopy
Message 19
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| Subject: | RV6A brake line routing from F-6122 to exit the airframe |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
As I am looking at dwg 49, I can see how the brake lines coming from the master
cylinders mount at the F6122 via their AN832-4D unions. From there, it appears
as though they are supposed to angle outboard to their respective sides, cross
the firewall, and turn aft at the outer firewall edge finally exiting outboard
(not downward) somewhere (?) aft.
As a general description, this seems OK until you look at what's in the way.
1...at the corners, there is a orange painted steel part that has a flange pointing
aft.
On the right side, I could run the line so it arrives there below that point.
Yes, No (if not, how?)
On the left side, I could a) go further down first, then turn the corners or b)
hop over the weldment flange while turning the corners. Recommendation, a, b,
or please provide?
2...across the firewall, there is the X angle flanges, the battery box, and more
X angle flanges.
Going through the angle flanges would provide mounting for the tubing as it progresses,
but would make bending very difficult. Hopping over the flanges provides
for an easier installation - but no support for the tubing. Please help
me with this one...!
To go forward of the battery box would require passing through vertical angle flanges
on each side of the battery box mounting, and notching the battery box
attachment relative to where the tubing passes by it - there are already two mounting
bolt/nutplates per side...I could go between them, but that is significantly
higher that shown on dwg 49. Going lower to cross places the tubing through
the backing angles for the engine mount - that would seem like something
that I shouldn't violate. I'm out of ideas on this too!
Next, as I am running the lines aft after turning the firewall corners, should
they be supported with an adel clamp along the angle that's just off of the floor
once or twice?
Finally, after making the turn to go aft, how far back do I go before exiting outboard?
Forward of the main gear through hole, in line with the center of the
main gear through hole, X inches aft of the firewall? How far up should the
AN833-4D elbow be?
If these lines are to be run at my discretion, please let me know what things I
can't cut through - I don't want to compromise the airframe structure to run
the brake lines.
I can take pictures if that will help......
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Message 20
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| Subject: | FW: [rv8list] Plz. Read This |
--> RV-List message posted by: Martin Sobel <rv8vator@earthlink.net>
This appears to be spam.
Martin Sobel
----------
From: "Nabhanil Mondal" <nabhanilmondal@yahoo.com>
Subject: [rv8list] Plz. Read This
Hi
I am a new member of this group Plz visit my site at
www.enil1.netfirms.com as this may change your life. Plz sign in the
guest book. Bye...
Nabhanil
Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important
Questions.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: FW: [rv8list] Plz. Read This |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@attbi.com>
It is spam and I've removed the offender from the list.
Ken Balch
Martin Sobel wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Martin Sobel <rv8vator@earthlink.net>
>
>This appears to be spam.
>
>Martin Sobel
>
>
>----------
>From: "Nabhanil Mondal" <nabhanilmondal@yahoo.com>
>Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 20:11:01 -0000
>To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [rv8list] Plz. Read This
>
>Hi
>I am a new member of this group Plz visit my site at
>www.enil1.netfirms.com as this may change your life. Plz sign in the
>guest book. Bye...
>Nabhanil
>
>
>Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important
>Questions.
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
>
>Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
>
>IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
>
>rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | RV6A brake line routing from F-6122 to exit the airframe |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
Hi Ralph
Been a few years since I did that work and my memory is fading so I will
only answer part of your question.
First I suggest you do the fuel lines, they are larger and harder to bend in
place, the brake lines are flexible and can be bent and adjusted in place to
go around other items such as the fuel lines. By the way all lines are much
easier to do if the bottom forward skin is left off until this work is
completed.
One excellent way to support brake lines on the firewall X braces and
elsewhere is to;
(1) Get some clear vinyl tubing with inside diameter same as OD of brake
line, I believe 1/4 ID and 3/8 OD. The idea is to cut a piece about 1 inch
long and slit it down one side so it will open up and fit around the brake
line.
(2) next make up small standoff brackets (.040 or .063 about 3/4 X 1&3/4)
for riveting to structure. Make a hole in bracket the same diameter as the
OD of the vinyl tubing. Next file a slot into the hole from top side of the
bracket just big enough for the brake line to drop through.
(3) drop brake line through slot then slide vinyl horizontally along brake
line into and half way through hole. You now have a nice support and the
brake line is easily removable. If worried about vinyl creeping laterally
add dab of pro-seal or tie-wrap the vinyl.
I ran my brake lines down the side of cockpit a few inches above the floor
and through slots in the vertical bulkheads, I find lines on the floor
intrude into your living space.
Your brake line will exit the cockpit close to the gear leg and inside the
gear leg fairing and the upper intersection fairing that you will construct,
placement may vary by an inch or two. I secured my brake lines to the gear
legs using short lengths of vinyl tubeing over the brake line and pro-sealed
to the gear leg. There is a picture of the bottom of gear leg on Van
Airforce Western Canada Wing website, look up C-GJTY and click the "more"
link.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
6A - 150 hrs.
Fellow listers,
As I am looking at dwg 49, I can see how the brake lines coming from the
master cylinders mount at the F6122 via their AN832-4D unions. From there,
it appears as though they are supposed to angle outboard to their respective
sides, cross the firewall, and turn aft at the outer firewall edge finally
exiting outboard (not downward) somewhere (?) aft.
As a general description, this seems OK until you look at what's in the way.
1...at the corners, there is a orange painted steel part that has a flange
pointing aft.
On the right side, I could run the line so it arrives there below that
point. Yes, No (if not, how?)
On the left side, I could a) go further down first, then turn the corners or
b) hop over the weldment flange while turning the corners. Recommendation,
a, b, or please provide?
2...across the firewall, there is the X angle flanges, the battery box, and
more X angle flanges.
Going through the angle flanges would provide mounting for the tubing as it
progresses, but would make bending very difficult. Hopping over the flanges
provides for an easier installation - but no support for the tubing.
Please help me with this one...!
To go forward of the battery box would require passing through vertical
angle flanges on each side of the battery box mounting, and notching the
battery box attachment relative to where the tubing passes by it - there are
already two mounting bolt/nutplates per side...I could go between them, but
that is significantly higher that shown on dwg 49. Going lower to cross
places the tubing through the backing angles for the engine mount - that
would seem like something that I shouldn't violate. I'm out of ideas on
this too!
Next, as I am running the lines aft after turning the firewall corners,
should they be supported with an adel clamp along the angle that's just off
of the floor once or twice?
Finally, after making the turn to go aft, how far back do I go before
exiting outboard? Forward of the main gear through hole, in line with the
center of the main gear through hole, X inches aft of the firewall? How far
up should the AN833-4D elbow be?
If these lines are to be run at my discretion, please let me know what
things I can't cut through - I don't want to compromise the airframe
structure to run the brake lines.
I can take pictures if that will help......
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
_
Message 23
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| Subject: | Van's Tachometer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
---
Has anyone installed Van's tach with the 12in. extension cable? I have
found that in the installation on my RV-8A, the cable with the tach
generator
attached is at least 4in. longer than the distance from the back of the
engine to the firewall. A straight installation would put it 4in. into the
front
baggage compartment. Installation of the generator on the firewall would
seem to
require nearly a 90 degree bend in the cable, which in my opinion would
probably cause premature cable failure. I am considering having the cable
shortened at an auto shop that repairs speedometers.
Hi Ray
Agreed, poor setup and it will probably shorten life of inner cable. I did
mount the generator on a bracker about an inch forward of firewall and with
a 90 degree bend in cable. Kept the bend as gentle as possible over full
length of cable. No problems so far in 150 hrs.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
6A - 150 hrs
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
>
> Has anyone had trouble with Vans Oil Pressure Gauge?
> My gauge reads ok on startup but once in the air oil pressure slowly varies
> form 80 to 40 to 60 to 25 to 40, somtimes 0. I have an idiot light installed
> (mostly to remind me to shut the master off) it never lights up. A buddy of
> mine and I installed a tee and ran the electric sender and a manual oil
> pressure gauge of a common line. Manual gauge read 80 electric showed 20. I've
> checked for loose wire and such. Anyone have any ideas?
>
> John Danielson
> RV-6 145 hrs.
>
Been there, seen that. It certainly got my heart rate up until I got used
to it. Mine usually headed toward zero as soon as I got about 10 miles into
the Mountains. I've been fighting the problem off and on for years, with
Van's remote oil press sensor and indicator. What I wound up with was the
following which has worked for over a year. (I also swapped out sensors and
gages, etc.).
1. Lowered the sensor to a spot lower than the oil fitting on the engine.
2. Turned the sensor over so the sensor is up and the fitting is down.
3 Take the hose off and blow it out real good with an air hose.
4. Pour some red stuff (Marvel Mystery oil) in the hose before attaching to
the engine. This is to fill up the hose and delete any air bubble, whilst
dissolving any crud, which forms.
Some or all of this is probably superstition and ignorance but anyway it is
what worked for me. Next time I will definitely use a direct reading gage!!
The warning light is something I check on EVERY start up and shut down.
I love it. It has never malfunctioned for me either.
Denis
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
John,
These sending units are pretty unreliable (read junk). My first one from
Van's was bad but the one they replaced it with has been ok now for
almost 3 years. These are the same sending units that are used for cars
and also Westec uses them or used to. If you want to see what I mean by
junk, just open one up and see how it's made. It's a wonder any of them
work.
Dave RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
JDaniel343@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
>
>Has anyone had trouble with Vans Oil Pressure Gauge?
>My gauge reads ok on startup but once in the air oil pressure slowly varies form
80 to 40 to 60 to 25 to 40, somtimes 0. I have an idiot light installed (mostly
to remind me to shut the master off) it never lights up. A buddy of mine
and I installed a tee and ran the electric sender and a manual oil pressure gauge
of a common line. Manual gauge read 80 electric showed 20. I've checked for
loose wire and such. Anyone have any ideas?
>
>John Danielson
>RV-6 145 hrs.
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Aerosport rocker covers for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Greetings all:
I have a set of AeroSport rocker box covers for sale (0-360, but I think
they will also fit the 0-320). They are in perfect condition but will not
fit a RV-4 (as I found out when I did the final fit on my airplane). They
are fine for a RV-6, 7, 8, or 9. $100 for the 4 includes shipping. Photos
are here:
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/mnwing/id74.htm
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
dougweil@pressenter.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Vans Oil Pressure Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Mckenna" <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
I have had similar oil pressure indicator problems with Mitchell sender and
gauge. For many of us, I believe wire connections are to blame. My gauge
would often not indicate after the engine sat idle for more than a week. I
could tap on the gauge or reach up behind gauge and wiggle wires and oil
pressure would read normal. I recently replaced the gauge thinking it had an
internal connection problem to the gauge spade connector. After testing the
suspect gauge on the bench, I believe it is working flawless. That leaves me
to believe the connections at the back of the gauge were at fault. I
squeezed them down to a tighter slip fit when I installed the new gauge.
Corrosion may have been the problem since the engine\plane seemed to always
have the oil pressure fault after a long idle period. Below are some notes I
recorded when bench testing (I was trying to force the fault in the gauge
testing) they may be of help in troubleshooting your problems.
* Power OFF(Master off)- Gauge reads less then zero (this is normal)
* Power ON, zero engine rpm (Sensor 1 to 3 ohms) - Gauge reads zero (gauge
ground 1 to 3 ohms
from absolute ground reference)
* Power ON, no ground connection to gauge, no sensor signal - Reads less
than zero.
* Power ON, no ground connection to gauge, 80 lb sensor signal - Reads 65
lbs.
* If gauge ground is 500 ohms above reference ground - Reading 15 lbs low.
* If power supply to gauge is 7 volts(bad connection)- Reading 15 lbs low.
* Disconnect supply voltage - Reading drops below zero slowly.
* Disconnect gauge ground (No sensor signal present) - Reading drops below
zero immediately.
Sensor 3 ohms = 0 lbs
Sensor 93 ohms = 60 lbs
Sensor 113 ohms = 80 lbs
Sensor 190 ohms = 150 lbs
Hope this is helpful,
Mike Mckenna
RV-6a O-320 180 hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
JDaniel343@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
Has anyone had trouble with Vans Oil Pressure Gauge?
My gauge reads ok on startup but once in the air oil pressure slowly varies
form 80 to 40 to 60 to 25 to 40, somtimes 0. I have an idiot light installed
(mostly to remind me to shut the master off) it never lights up. A buddy of
mine and I installed a tee and ran the electric sender and a manual oil
pressure gauge of a common line. Manual gauge read 80 electric showed 20.
I've checked for loose wire and such. Anyone have any ideas?
John Danielson
RV-6 145 hrs.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Langley RV Fly-in Saturday |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
The Langley RV Fly-in is Saturday, June 7. Langley, BC, is approximately 20 nm
north of Bellingham, WA.
The weather forecast is excellent, and we're expecting a good turnout of RVs.
Details are on our web site.
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
There's also border crossing information there for U.S. visitors.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
www.vansairforce.org
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
> These sending units are pretty unreliable (read junk). My first one from
> Van's was bad but the one they replaced it with has been ok now for
> almost 3 years. These are the same sending units that are used for cars
> and also Westec uses them or used to. If you want to see what I mean by
> junk, just open one up and see how it's made. It's a wonder any of them
> work.
>
Keep in mind the exterior of the transducer must have a good ground to the
airframe.
Doug Weiler
N722DW, RV-4 awaiting the FAA
Message 30
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| Subject: | Vans Oil Pressure Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> >
> > Has anyone had trouble with Vans Oil Pressure Gauge?
> > My gauge reads ok on startup but once in the air oil
> pressure slowly
> > varies form 80 to 40 to 60 to 25 to 40, somtimes 0. I have an idiot
> > light installed (mostly to remind me to shut the master
> off) it never
> > lights up. A buddy of mine and I installed a tee and ran
> the electric
> > sender and a manual oil pressure gauge of a common line.
> Manual gauge
> > read 80 electric showed 20. I've checked for loose wire and such.
> > Anyone have any ideas?
> >
> > John Danielson
> > RV-6 145 hrs.
> >
> Been there, seen that. It certainly got my heart rate up
> until I got used to it. Mine usually headed toward zero as
> soon as I got about 10 miles into
> the Mountains. I've been fighting the problem off and on
> for years, with
> Van's remote oil press sensor and indicator. What I wound up
> with was the following which has worked for over a year. (I
> also swapped out sensors and gages, etc.).
Folks, this is why, with an electric oil pressure gauge, I consider it
mandatory to have a mechanical backup. UMA sells a nice small gauge,
plumb it in with 1/8 line, and problem solved. When the electric one
shows zero pressure, what course of action can one take other than an
immediate precautionary landing? The only other reliable indicator that
the pressure is indeed zero is when the engine packs it in. All other
engine indications are not as important or have other backups. I know,
one can look at the oil temp, but this assumes you have oil reaching the
sender.
Please consider what you would do if your sole source of oil pressure
indication says zero.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 309 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Dave Bristol wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> John,
>
> These sending units are pretty unreliable (read junk). My first one from
> Van's was bad but the one they replaced it with has been ok now for
> almost 3 years. These are the same sending units that are used for cars
> and also Westec uses them or used to.
And they are failing all the time in cars right? NOT....
My sending unit and gauge from van's has worked flawlessly
for years. As someone else mentioned the truth is in the
wireing and being well grounded.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Vans Oil Pressure Gauge |
Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
Addendum, to previous post.
I do remember having bad connections and connectors at one time or another.
Never did discover a true fault with either the sender or the gage.
DLW
Message 33
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| Subject: | Atitude Indicator Interference? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
I bought an RV6A that has a non standard instrument layout. All the
standard 6 are there just not in the normal configuration. I was looking at
remounting them in the Standard config when I found that there is a
longitudinal rib on the back of the panel that prevents mounting the AI in
the top center hole. Anyone know how to work around this rib or modify it?
Thanks,
Ned
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