Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:28 AM - Re: Finally--22DW flies (chris m)
2. 01:04 AM - Rudder Top Fairing (Graham Murphy)
3. 01:35 AM - Re: Rudder Top Fairing (Jim Jewell)
4. 04:32 AM - Re: Rudder Top Fairing (Dana Overall)
5. 06:08 AM - Re: Re: RV9-List: Time to Build Wings (Ernest Kells)
6. 06:11 AM - Re: Rudder Top Fairing (Jeff Orear)
7. 06:21 AM - Post-Building Boredom Syndrome (jim hurd)
8. 06:51 AM - Re: Post-Building Boredom Syndrome (lucky macy)
9. 07:30 AM - Re: Post-Building Boredom Syndrome (Denis Walsh)
10. 07:46 AM - OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY (JDaniel343@aol.com)
11. 07:59 AM - Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
12. 08:03 AM - Re: Rudder Top Fairing (Dana Overall)
13. 08:27 AM - Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY (Scott Bilinski)
14. 08:46 AM - Re: MD-RA Consumer satisfaction? (Jim Jewell)
15. 10:24 AM - Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
16. 10:34 AM - Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY ()
17. 10:44 AM - Re: Rudder Top Fairing (Elsa & Henry)
18. 11:10 AM - Fake spar for RV6A (Jim Salyer)
19. 11:14 AM - Re: Drilling Elevator horn using HS bracket and bearing as guide (Dan Checkoway)
20. 11:44 AM - Re: Fake spar for RV6A (Jim Jewell)
21. 11:44 AM - Tatco Rivet Squeezer for sale (Scot Stambaugh)
22. 11:48 AM - bend radius (Chris W)
23. 11:55 AM - Re: Tatco Rivet Squeezer sold (Scot Stambaugh)
24. 12:37 PM - Re: Fake spar for RV6A (Elsa & Henry)
25. 01:27 PM - Re: bend radius (Scott Bilinski)
26. 01:27 PM - Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY (chris m)
27. 01:33 PM - Re: bend radius (Cy Galley)
28. 01:37 PM - Re: bend radius (Elsa & Henry)
29. 02:24 PM - Re: Panel Decals ... (Charles Rowbotham)
30. 02:45 PM - Re: bend radius (Chris W)
31. 02:47 PM - RV-8 rollbar installation (Geoff Evans)
32. 03:06 PM - Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY (JDaniel343@aol.com)
33. 03:10 PM - EAA chapter's air compressor (kempthornes)
34. 03:27 PM - For Sale (R. Craig Chipley)
35. 05:59 PM - OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY (Martin Hone)
36. 06:39 PM - O320-E2G Fit in an RV6A? ()
37. 08:26 PM - Re: O320-E2G Fit in an RV6A? (Gil Alexander)
38. 08:45 PM - O320-E2G will fit an RV6A ? ()
39. 09:46 PM - Re: bend radius (Shemp)
40. 10:02 PM - Re: EAA chapter's air compressor (Mark Phillips)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Finally--22DW flies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "chris m" <vhmum@bigpond.com>
Good on ya mate well done and have fun fun fun..
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-List: Finally--22DW flies
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> Fellow Listers
>
> Well it's only been 12 1/2 years, but I'm happy to report that my RV-4,
> N722DW made its first flight yesterday at Lake Elmo Airport in Minnesota.
> Everything went very well.. the usual requirement for some right rudder
trim
> and the right wing is a tad heavy. But the new Aerosport 180hp ran
perfect
> as we expected. Weather was perfect.. clear and no wind.
>
> And... in addition, one of our other MN Wing members, Tom Berge, flew his
> RV-7A just 90 minutes later (we both had the same DAR making the rounds on
> Sunday afternoon). Tom's flight was uneventful (180 Aerosport with dual
> electronic ignition and a dual electrical systems). Plus it flew
perfectly
> straight.. and only a 22 month construction time!!
>
> It was a fun day!!
>
> Doug Weiler,
> pres, MN Wing
> N722DW... flying!!!
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rudder Top Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy@xtra.co.nz>
folks
Fitting the rudder top fairing after having rolled the rudder leading
edge I note that the fairing is approx. 1/8" short fore/aft. The LE
seems to be the correct dimension, within tolerance anyway.
Has anybody else experienced this ? i propose building up the fairing
at the front using fglass & resin. Any other ideas.
Thanx
Graham Murphy
RV-6A
New zealand
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Top Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Its not very uncommon. Make it fit nice with an eye toward safe clearances
with the rudder fully turned both ways.
Keep at it, it will fly,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Murphy" <jgmurphy@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Top Fairing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy@xtra.co.nz>
>
> folks
>
> Fitting the rudder top fairing after having rolled the rudder leading
> edge I note that the fairing is approx. 1/8" short fore/aft. The LE
> seems to be the correct dimension, within tolerance anyway.
>
> Has anybody else experienced this ? i propose building up the fairing
> at the front using fglass & resin. Any other ideas.
>
> Thanx
>
> Graham Murphy
> RV-6A
> New zealand
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Top Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Graham,
I'm not going to address the why doesn't it fit part of your post but I will
say something about the fix from my ol plastic airplane building days.
I think you may find it difficult to sand a flox mixture down on the leading
the edge of that fairing. You will be trying to feather in a rather hard
mixture into a complex, changing curve. You may find it easier to plug the
aft open end with foam, letting the foam extend aft the required distance.
Epoxy it in on the inside of the fairing, glass and fill to achieve a smooth
transition. If you want to extend glass over the edges of the outside of
the fairing after you have glassed and filled the aft side of your foam, go
to a local hobby store and buy a little "silk weave". This glass is very,
very thin. It is used by radio control guys to glass their wings. A lot of
plastic airplane builders use this as a final layer of a buildup to
eliminate pinholes instead of peelply.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy@xtra.co.nz>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: RV-List <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Rudder Top Fairing
>Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 20:02:13 +1200
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy@xtra.co.nz>
>
>folks
>
>Fitting the rudder top fairing after having rolled the rudder leading
>edge I note that the fairing is approx. 1/8" short fore/aft. The LE
>seems to be the correct dimension, within tolerance anyway.
>
>Has anybody else experienced this ? i propose building up the fairing
>at the front using fglass & resin. Any other ideas.
>
>Thanx
>
>Graham Murphy
>RV-6A
>New zealand
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Time to Build Wings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
Dick: In addition to your outstanding wing tasks, if you make your wingtips
removable (e.g.: platenuts), put in wingtip lights, routing wire, etc., you
will definitely fit into what others are achieving - at least 400 - - but
could be 450 or more.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - Fairings
> I haven't finished my wings (non-quickbuild). I still have to prime and
> rivet the bottom skins and finish the tips, but so far I have 290 hours
> in them. Dick Tasker, 90573
>
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
> >I am trying to make some computations and plans. Can I get a quick reply
from those who have completed wings on which model RV you are doing, if it
is a quick build or not, and approximate numbers of hours to complete the
wings? Thanks in advance, Glenn in Arizona -9A emp.
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Top Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Graham:
I just took care of that rudder tip recently whilst waiting for my finish
kit.
Like you, I had a bit of a gap at the leading edge of the fiberglass tip.
About 1/8 inch as you have. My solution was to drill out the pulled
rivets....three of them...and then roll the rudder skin leading edge to meet
the fiberglass. This area is a very short section of the rudder leading
edge so you can get away with it here. Then I drilled new holes for new
pulled rivets and then redrilled the old ones and put new pulled rivets
there too....not for strength, but to close the holes up.
The whole mess is going to be recessed within the trailing edge of the
vertical stab, so who's to know?
Hope this helps
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finishing kit)
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Murphy" <jgmurphy@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Top Fairing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy@xtra.co.nz>
>
> folks
>
> Fitting the rudder top fairing after having rolled the rudder leading
> edge I note that the fairing is approx. 1/8" short fore/aft. The LE
> seems to be the correct dimension, within tolerance anyway.
>
> Has anybody else experienced this ? i propose building up the fairing
> at the front using fglass & resin. Any other ideas.
>
> Thanx
>
> Graham Murphy
> RV-6A
> New zealand
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Post-Building Boredom Syndrome |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jim hurd" <hurd@gsinternet.net>
Do Not Archive
Gentlemen: While I *love* flying my RV and enjoy maintaining it, I need another
aluminum-building project to get me through until the RV-12 (single-seat, light-acro,
STOL, no-medical) kits come out. Can't fit another bird in the hangar
and not interested in a replica Panzer-jeep Volkswagen, thank you. What
I need is an RV that floats; that can keep me off the streets until the fog clears
mid-morning and I can go flying.
I come to the RV List because I have found nothing elsewhere on the Web or Newsgroups
for a light, versatile, aesthetically-pleasing, home-built aluminum boat
that'll slide in the bed of my pickup. I'm figuring one of you knows where
to find plans or can whip out engineering drawings on a series of cocktail napkins.
I'm neither sailor nor designer but I *think* what I'm looking for is a skiff,
which carries oars and sail. Right now, I'd probably settle for an .050 & angle
knock-off of a Grumman canoe.
Surely someone on the List has dealt with PBBS symptoms in a similar manner. TIA
for any and all leads.
Jim (I hate fibreglas and ain't gonna mess with wood)
RV6A flying 260 hours San Antonio
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Post-Building Boredom Syndrome |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
forget that.
Put those RV tools to use and build a factory five kit car so you can drive
the airport in style and fun. A buddy put one together in less than a month
and it's totally street legal, cheap to insure and a complete head-turner
anywhere he goes. It's awesome and the company is the kit car equivalent of
Van's Aircraft and they claim they sell more kits than all companys
combined. Their intro/demo video tape looks like it could have been
produced by copying Van's tape.
The finished project price is a lot cheaper than a RV too!
http://www.factoryfive.com/table/ffrkits/roadster/roadsterkit.html
>From: "jim hurd" <hurd@gsinternet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Post-Building Boredom Syndrome Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003
>08:22:06 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "jim hurd" <hurd@gsinternet.net>
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>Gentlemen: While I *love* flying my RV and enjoy maintaining it, I need
>another aluminum-building project to get me through until the RV-12
>(single-seat, light-acro, STOL, no-medical) kits come out. Can't fit
>another bird in the hangar and not interested in a replica Panzer-jeep
>Volkswagen, thank you. What I need is an RV that floats; that can keep me
>off the streets until the fog clears mid-morning and I can go flying.
>
>I come to the RV List because I have found nothing elsewhere on the Web or
>Newsgroups for a light, versatile, aesthetically-pleasing, home-built
>aluminum boat that'll slide in the bed of my pickup. I'm figuring one of
>you knows where to find plans or can whip out engineering drawings on a
>series of cocktail napkins.
>
>I'm neither sailor nor designer but I *think* what I'm looking for is a
>skiff, which carries oars and sail. Right now, I'd probably settle for an
>.050 & angle knock-off of a Grumman canoe.
>
>Surely someone on the List has dealt with PBBS symptoms in a similar
>manner. TIA for any and all leads.
>
>Jim (I hate fibreglas and ain't gonna mess with wood)
>RV6A flying 260 hours San Antonio
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Post-Building Boredom Syndrome |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
On 6/18/03 07:22, "jim hurd" <hurd@gsinternet.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "jim hurd" <hurd@gsinternet.net>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Gentlemen: While I *love* flying my RV and enjoy maintaining it, I need
> another aluminum-building project to get me through until the RV-12
> (single-seat, light-acro, STOL, no-medical) kits come out. Can't fit another
> bird in the hangar and not interested in a replica Panzer-jeep Volkswagen,
> thank you.
Hey where can you get a replica panzer jeep volks??
Wow
Denis
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY |
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
I just finished painting my plane and got some overspray on my canopy. You can't
see it, but you cn feel it. Whats an easy way to get this off.
John Danielson
150hrs RV-6
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
Get a good polish/wax and it will come right off.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Top Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
My bad...................I read the post thinking you were talking about the
VS, not the rudder.........like the ol movie line says..........."Never
Mind"
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I would talk to the local plastics shop and see what they recommend.
Hopefully it is not fully cured. Might try plastic cleaner and buff it off.
At 10:45 AM 6/18/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
>
>I just finished painting my plane and got some overspray on my canopy. You
>can't see it, but you cn feel it. Whats an easy way to get this off.
>
>John Danielson
>150hrs RV-6
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MD-RA Consumer satisfaction? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
ATTN. Canadian rv-list, RAA and Western Wing members.
It has been pointed out to me that the original version and purpose of the email
below was not clearly identified.
One more time.
This email is meant to be an informal non scientific public arena poll. It is intended
to spark commentary and conversation in respect to the MD-RA inspection
process.
I have been listening to local area aircraft kit builder people's comments regarding
the MD-RA inspection process that they are required to follow.
It occurred to me that It might be good to get and share a more general scan of
builders experiances and reactions.
If you are happy say how and why here.
If you are not happy say how and why here.
If you have Suggestions? here.
Jim in Kelowna
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY |
NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
I had over spray both when I painted it, and 2 weeks ago when I reshot my
canopy trim.
Overspray both times on canopy with Imron.
MEK again did the trick.
Of course there are some who will say "DONT ....MEK...on plastic" My
experience has been with a light rub on the areas affected, then a cleaning
with plastic cleaner, the canopy is unaffected by MEK. Now I have not poured
a gallon on it the sun, but light rubbing for paint removal did not affect
mine in the 2 times i have done it. And Only MEK would get it off when I
threw my chemicals I had on hand at it.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I would talk to the local plastics shop and see what they recommend.
Hopefully it is not fully cured. Might try plastic cleaner and buff it off.
At 10:45 AM 6/18/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
>
>I just finished painting my plane and got some overspray on my canopy. You
>can't see it, but you cn feel it. Whats an easy way to get this off.
>
>John Danielson
>150hrs RV-6
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY |
--> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
180kts should take care of it!!!!
>
> From: JDaniel343@aol.com
> Date: 2003/06/18 Wed AM 10:45:35 EDT
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
>
> I just finished painting my plane and got some overspray on my canopy. You can't
see it, but you cn feel it. Whats an easy way to get this off.
>
> John Danielson
> 150hrs RV-6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Top Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Graham, looks like you were a victim of Murphy's Law (sorry couldn't
resist). I suggest any builder that has still to rivet-together the rudder
leading edge, do the same as I did:
After rolling the leading edges, I was leery about how the FG tip would fit,
so I fitted it so that the trailing edges lined-up nicely (no holes drilled
yet), duck-taped it in place, then wrapped and taped the leading edges
around the tip to obtain a nice fit, trimming off the starboard side flange
as required and THEN completed the taping and pop-riveting the edges to the
bottom. I found that I had enough overlap of the edges that I could wedge a
3/8" dia. rod along their length butted against the flange and still have
enough "meat" left to drill and pop-rivet.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fake spar for RV6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Salyer <jimsalyer@cfu.net>
Can someone tell me what to use for a spar while working and moving the
6A? Dont have the room for the wings to be on. Thanks
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Elevator horn using HS bracket and bearing as guide |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I need to drill the upper AN4 bolt hole in the WD605 elevator horn. This
is
> shown on page 5PP and 27A. It appears to me to drill the horn using the
> VA146 bearing of the HS as a guide.
>
> The 1/4" drill bit does not fit through the VA146 bearing.
Pretty sure the instructions mention using a drill bushing. Basically take
a bushing that will fit into the hole in the bearing, stick it in there.
Then drill through the bushing to drill one horn at a time.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fake spar for RV6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Jim,
I used wood. In this case some Fir was milled to the same specs. as the
spar.
No problems so far.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Salyer" <jimsalyer@cfu.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fake spar for RV6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Salyer <jimsalyer@cfu.net>
>
> Can someone tell me what to use for a spar while working and moving the
> 6A? Dont have the room for the wings to be on. Thanks
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tatco Rivet Squeezer for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
I have a Tatco squeezer and 3 heads for sale.
Squeezer Handle STH-90 $105.00
2" yoke STY-20 $64.00
3" yoke STY-30 $78.00
4" yoke STY-40 $93.00
Total $340.00
These are Cleveland Tool prices right off their web site:
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=54
I'll sell it for $250.00 shipping (UPS Ground) included to anywhere in the
Continental USA.
by the way, it is in perfect condition.
Reply off list as I am not monitoring the list right now.
sstambaugh@qualcomm.com
Scot Stambaugh
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
Can anyone tell me how tight of a bend radius you can safely use on
2024-T3?
do not archive
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tatco Rivet Squeezer sold |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
Squeezer sold!! WOW!!! I also have a 1946 J3-Cub for sale if anybody is
interested. Contact off-list.
scot
At 10:02 AM 6/18/2003 -0700, Scot Stambaugh wrote:
>I have a Tatco squeezer and 3 heads for sale.
>
>Squeezer Handle STH-90 $105.00
>2" yoke STY-20 $64.00
>3" yoke STY-30 $78.00
>4" yoke STY-40 $93.00
>Total $340.00
>These are Cleveland Tool prices right off their web site:
>http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=54
>
>I'll sell it for $250.00 shipping (UPS Ground) included to anywhere in the
>Continental USA.
>
>by the way, it is in perfect condition.
>
>Reply off list as I am not monitoring the list right now.
>sstambaugh@qualcomm.com
>
>Scot Stambaugh
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fake spar for RV6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
A piece of 3/4" plywood glued to a 1/2" piece, cut to the same size as the
wing spar,. 2 off. Then surface plane them to the same thickness as your
spars.
Cheers!!-------Henry Hore
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Depends on the thickness.
At 01:49 PM 6/18/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
>Can anyone tell me how tight of a bend radius you can safely use on
>2024-T3?
>
>do not archive
>
>--
>Chris Woodhouse
>3147 SW 127th St.
>Oklahoma City, OK 73170
>405-691-5206
>chrisw@programmer.net
>N35 20.492'
>W97 34.342'
>
>"They that can give up essential liberty
>to obtain a little temporary safety
>deserve neither liberty nor safety."
>-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY |
--> RV-List message posted by: chris m <vhmum@bigpond.com>
I used Metho when i got Imron on my canopy. Only a tad on a tissue and then
rinced with water.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
----- Original Message -----
From: <mstewart@qa.butler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> I had over spray both when I painted it, and 2 weeks ago when I reshot my
> canopy trim.
> Overspray both times on canopy with Imron.
> MEK again did the trick.
> Of course there are some who will say "DONT ....MEK...on plastic" My
> experience has been with a light rub on the areas affected, then a
cleaning
> with plastic cleaner, the canopy is unaffected by MEK. Now I have not
poured
> a gallon on it the sun, but light rubbing for paint removal did not affect
> mine in the 2 times i have done it. And Only MEK would get it off when I
> threw my chemicals I had on hand at it.
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> I would talk to the local plastics shop and see what they recommend.
> Hopefully it is not fully cured. Might try plastic cleaner and buff it
off.
>
>
> At 10:45 AM 6/18/03 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
> >
> >I just finished painting my plane and got some overspray on my canopy.
You
> >can't see it, but you cn feel it. Whats an easy way to get this off.
> >
> >John Danielson
> >150hrs RV-6
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
It is related to the thickness! There is a table in Aircraft Spruce Catalog
around page 68
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris W" <chrisw3@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: bend radius
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> Can anyone tell me how tight of a bend radius you can safely use on
> 2024-T3?
>
> do not archive
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
> "They that can give up essential liberty
> to obtain a little temporary safety
> deserve neither liberty nor safety."
> -- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
>
>
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Chris, What gauge??------Henry
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Panel Decals ... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Scott,
We used an inkjet printer on transparencies and then spraied on an adhesive.
We will be replacing it in the next year with an engraved plate from the guy
in CT. Our original still looks good after 2 years but want to upgrade.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: <sgesele@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Panel Decals ...
>Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 15:36:20 -0700 (PDT)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <sgesele@yahoo.com>
>
>
> >Time: 05:26:23 PM PST US
> >From: "David Schaefer"
> >Subject: RV-List: Panel Decals ...
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer"
> >
> >
> >What are folks doing for decals or stenciling for
> >the panel switches? I
> >don't want to use something like a labeler; I would
> >like it as permanent
> >as possible.
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >David Schaefer
> >RV6-A
>
>
>David,
>
>I just finished an IFR upgrade in my -6A and
>fabricated a new panel. Both myself and another
>builder used the following method with excellent
>results.
>
>The panel was painted with PPG. It was wet sanded
>between coats and after the final coat using a Porter
>Cable palm sander with 600 grit. The paint pooled
>ever so slightly around the openings. The sanding
>removed this material, along with any dust, leaving a
>perfectly smooth, but dull finish.
>
>The lettering for the panel was created using MS Word.
> This allowed for multiple font sizes. With a simple
>cut and paste, an entire 8 1/2 X 11 sheet was filled
>with these markings. In the end, I had 3-4 copies of
>each required marking on one sheet. This allows for
>the mistakes in positioning the words that will
>follow. Using a LASER printer, set to its highest
>resolution, print out this sheet on decal paper
>designed for a laser printer. This is available from
>www.micromark.com, 5 sheets for around $6. They also
>have a 'blotter' tool for around $3 that helps in
>positioning the decals. If you have access to a color
>laser printer, then you are not limited to black only
>lettering. Just don't use the inkjet version of the
>paper, nor an inkjet printer. The letters are then
>cut out, 'break' the edge of each rectangle so that
>each corner isn't a 90 degree edge, but two 45's very
>close together. Soak in water per the directions and
>apply to the panel. The blotting tool will make it
>easier to position the markings while also helping to
>remove excess water. For a straight row (switch
>markings, breakers, etc, stretch a fine string across
>the panel, raised slightly, to aid in alignment.
>
>After all labels are on, the panel is ready for clear
>coat. If you use a regular spray gun and shoot the
>entire panel, the clear will form pools around the
>decals while providing no coverage in the center of
>the decal. To fix this problem, start the clear
>process by very lightly airbrushing the clear onto the
>decals using a hobby airbrush and many light coats.
>When this dries, apply at least two full coats to the
>entire panel. After this dries, carefully and lightly
>wet sand any imperfections out. Be absolutely sure
>that you do not sand through the clear and into the
>decals. Finally apply a final coat of clear.
>
>With the clear, the edges of the decals completely
>disappear. You are left with a perfectly smooth
>panel, whose labels appear to be printed directly on
>the paint below. The cost was minimal, and the entire
>finishing process from initial paint through the clear
>coat took roughly ten to twelve hours of work, spread
>over three days.
>
>If have have any questions, just send me an email and
>I'd be happy to answer them.
>
>Scott Gesele
>N506RV
>
>
>__________________________________
>
>
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
Elsa & Henry wrote:
> Chris, What gauge??------Henry
Well back when I was working in hell AKA CMI, it didn't matter. The minimum
bend radius was some scale factor of the thickness. That was for A-36 steel
though, I thought it would be similar for aluminum. I also guess I need to
know the "Bend allowance" or the neutral radius I guess. Anyway I am looking
to make 90 degree bends in .032 and .063 2024-T3.
do not archive
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV-8 rollbar installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
There isn't much in the archives about this, so hopefully someone can
enlighten me.
I stretched my rollbar (with an engine hoist -- thanks Bill VonDane for that
tip) to fit the QB fuselage. The part of the rollbar that sits on the cockpit
rails is flush, and I had no problem drilling the holes for the two bolts on
each side that mount horizontally. The rollbar is flush with the longerons at
the aft end, so the single aft-most bolt on each side (the only bolt behind
the actual rollbar) goes in just fine.
That leaves the five bolts on each side in front of the actual rollbar...
There is quite a gap here between the steel weldments and the tops of the
longerons. The plans mention that shims might be required -- no problem.
However, the flange of the weldment (where the nuts and washers go) is not
parallel with the top of the longeron. That means that the shims will have to
be tapered (wedge-shaped) to fit in the gaps. This is doable, but perhaps
there is an easier method that I'm missing...
The problem I'm having is that since the flange of the weldment is not
parallel with the top of the longeron, the bolts will be at a slight angle.
This puts the heads of the bolts (the bolts go in upside down, according to
the plans) too close to the fuselage side skin. I drilled one hole and the
bolt went in okay, but the head is contacting the fuselage skin. After
drilling the next hole, I discovered that I couldn't insert the bolt up
through the hole. The angle of the hole, it's close proximity to the side
skin, and the length of the bolt prevent the bolt from going through the
hole.
The proximity-to-the-skin issue is (I think) only an issue with the aft three
of the five bolts because there is a doubler plate on the skin in this
location.
Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas about how to remedy these problems?
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB fuselage
__________________________________
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY |
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
WHAT IS METHO?
jOHN dANIELSON
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | EAA chapter's air compressor |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Hiya Ed,
Are you still influential in the chapter?
Gary Niva got peeved with me for not returning the compressor yet. I don't
blame him at all. Naughty of me!
But, I am wondering if you guys wouldn't as soon have cash? I could just
mail that to you and we'd be done with it. I'm sure I can pedal the
machine locally. I see new ones at harbor freight for $125 - $160 or
so. $50 would be fair but I'd go more, $75 anyway. Can you approach Gary
or whoever and see what they think?
I thought then and still think that you have a real tool person and locker
and get odd tools that you can all use like a panel punch or nicopress
crimper etc.
Maybe when I get my RV into night flying mode I'll drop in on a
meeting. Ours are as boring as 338's were before you took over. I
shouldn't say that I guess as Ace is one great guy.
I also still have your video on painting and a auto mirror motor -
damn. I'll get them out today.
If I haven't already, you are very much invited to stay a night if you pass
this way or??
hal
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81@yahoo.com>
AVERY TOOLS DIMPLE/RIVET ARBOR FOR SALE, BRAND NEW IN
BOX NEVER USED. 145.00
Garmin GPS 92 Yoke mount and cables new update
included
400.00
#30 screw down clecos 2.25 ea. have 15
#40 screw down clecos 2.25 ea. have 15
Craig Chipley
636 332-1529
Do Not Archive
__________________________________
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | OVERSPRAY ON CANOPY |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>
I knew someone would ask.
John, Methylated Spirit or "metho" is a common household product in Australia.
It is de-natured ethanol, widely used as a glass cleaner when mixed with water
or a poor mans bourbon when mixed with milk ( will make you blind - literally)
I use it to wash brushes and generally clean up when fibreglassing using Vinyl-Ester
You may also need an explanation of Chris's use of the word "tad" It means -
a very small amount. Like "poofteenth" :-)
I also have some Imron overspray on the canopy, so will try it soon, other wise
I will use plastic polish and buff it off.
I have had great success in removing scratches using light cutting compound.
Cheers
Martin in Oz
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | O320-E2G Fit in an RV6A? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
Can Anyone tell me if an O320-E2G will ftt an RV6A without a lot of mods?
Thanks,
Ned
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: O320-E2G Fit in an RV6A? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Ned ... it won't fit the -6A since it has a rear mounted carb.
You will need a new sump and 4 new intake tubes, and a relocation of the
oil pick up.
The Lycoming Parts Manual will give you details - basically turn it into an
-E2D (a C-172 engine, I believe)
...gil in Tucson
With an -E2G siting in the garage
Missed a photo of it when we had 2 rattlesnakes curled up on it...:
)
Bought a used sump from an aircraft bone yard, and 4 intake tubes on E-bay
At 08:39 PM 6/18/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
>Can Anyone tell me if an O320-E2G will ftt an RV6A without a lot of mods?
>
>Thanks,
>Ned
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | O320-E2G will fit an RV6A ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
Can Anyone tell me if an O320-E2G will fit an RV6A without a lot of mods?
Thanks,
Ned
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
If you have the Bingellis (sp?) books, its very detailed in there. Also the
little brown book has all of that stuff as well.
Jeff
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: EAA chapter's air compressor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
kempthornes wrote:
I shouldn't say that I guess as Ace is one great guy.
Hal- our own "Ace" Cannon is more than a great guy- 83 years young and
flown/rebuilt/worked on/owned more airplanes than I ever knew existed
(he can tell ya about lubing the rocker shafts on and flying behind an
OX-5!) Don't know about your Ace, but ya can't have ours!
Middle Tennessee Chapter 1321 member,
Mark Phillips and do not archive !!! 8-)
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|