Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:09 AM - Addison, TX (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
2. 06:49 AM - Re: Drilling Elevator horn using HS bracket and bearing as guide (LarryRobertHelming)
3. 07:06 AM - Slick Slider (Ron Patterson)
4. 09:23 AM - Re: Addison, TX (Kyle Boatright)
5. 09:44 AM - Forward Rudder Bottom Fairing/Fiberglass and Tail Wheel Problem (LarryRobertHelming)
6. 10:07 AM - Re: RV-8 rollbar installation (DAVID REEL)
7. 11:16 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 06/18/03 (don522@webtv.net (Don McCallister))
8. 12:09 PM - Post-Building Boredom Syndrome (Joel Haynes)
9. 01:31 PM - Re: Post-Building Boredom Syndrome (Graham Potts)
10. 04:31 PM - Re: Forward Rudder Bottom Fairing/Fiberglass and Tail Wheel Problem (Stanley Blanton)
11. 06:14 PM - 6106 skin and 670 side skin rivets? (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
12. 06:48 PM - Re: Addison, TX (Eugene Williams)
13. 09:14 PM - Discounts at OSH (Glenn Brasch)
14. 10:43 PM - Re: Discounts at OSH (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
Any suggestions on where to park the RV8A at Addison airport on Friday & Sat.
night.
Thanks,
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling Elevator horn using HS bracket and bearing as guide |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Thanks Dan. That is how I wound up doing it.
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360
Working on Finish Kit
Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But ..... is terribly
unforgiving
of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect.
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
Has anyone done a sliding canopy like Francis Butler's for an RV-4?
see.... http://www.butler-machinery.com/rv8/rv8.html
This looks like it would be terrific on my -4.
Ron Patterson
RV-4 (fwf)
N8ZD (reserved)
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I was just at Addison 4 weeks ago or so. Millionaire was nice to me.
Addison is a busy airport that caters to the bizjet crowd. Don't be
surprised if the fees are significant everywhere on the field. If you're
looking for hangar space, you should probably call ahead.
do not archive
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dwpetrus@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Addison, TX
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
>
> Any suggestions on where to park the RV8A at Addison airport on Friday &
Sat.
> night.
>
> Thanks,
> Wayne Petrus
> RV8A
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Forward Rudder Bottom Fairing/Fiberglass and Tail Wheel Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Re: Rudder Bottom RV7 Fairing Fiberglass tail wheel interference
I am fitting rudder bottom to new rudder ( mounted on VS ) and I have about
1 1/4" interference with lower portion of fiberglass bottom starting, and
most noticeably, at front by the tail wheel rod/spring. I am considering
possibilities with tail light already fitted in the other end. Trimming
the needed 1 1/4" along the entire length of the faring for uniformity would
be possible if it were not for the light.
What are you suggesting to others with this problem?
Thanks, Builder 70047, Larry Robert Helming
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360
Working on Finish Kit
Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But ..... is terribly
unforgiving
of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect. Author unknown
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 rollbar installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I had all the same problems with my 8A rollbar weldment fit Geoff. I made a double
taper aluminum wedge with lots of filing and fitting to close the gap between
the F887 longeron and the forward rollbar flange so the longeron wouldn't
be distorted when the roll bar was bolted to it. By double taper I mean the
wedge tapered from forward to aft and from outboard to inboard. Then to avoid
putting a big bending moment on the bolts and gouging the longeron with the heads,
I drilled the bolt holes at an angle to the rollbar surface so the heads
would line up flush with the underside of the longeron. Clamp a 90 degree L
shaped alignment jig to the bottom of the horizontal leg of F887 so the long end
sticks up far enough that you can orient your drill to the right angle. This
meant the holes angled inboard which gave me clearance for the heads from the
fillet between the horizontal and vertical longeron legs. Then I ground wedge
shaped washers so the nut would seat squarely against the rollbar flange.
All this was pretty tedious and time consuming. My weldment was purchased in
2000 & I hope the quality of fit has been improved greatly since then.
Geoff, It sounds like you may need to return your weldment to Vans as the bolt
holes for the forward flange are not lining up with the longeron leading to the
holes progressively nearing the outboard skin as you go forward. If this is
true and simply angling the holes inboard will not correct the problem, I'd ask
for a new weldment rather than try to bend the roll bar flanges into alignment.
Unfortunately, I'm at a loss as to what to do about the hole you already
drilled that came out too close to the vertical leg of the longeron. Maybe a
longer bolt and a number of washers under the head with the sides ground down
to fit. I'd definitely consult Vans & I'd like to hear how you solve these problems.
It's time for lots of thinking on this one as that longeron is an important
structural member.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 06/18/03 |
of Wed, 18 Jun 2003 23:57:16 -0700
--> RV-List message posted by: don522@webtv.net (Don McCallister)
Just curious -- if you don't mind-what did the DAR charge you fellows
and how long was he inspecting????
RV-6A -slow build- 7-3/4 years - hoping to taxi in 3-4 weeks!!!
Message 8
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| Subject: | Post-Building Boredom Syndrome |
--> RV-List message posted by: Joel Haynes <joelhaynes@tds.net>
Buy one of the toys shown on this web site. http://www.bmwmotorcycles.com/home
No better way to get to the airport. In fact you'll always take the long scenic
route. Guaranteed cure for boredom.
And by the way, please do not archive!!!!
Joel Haynes
Mazomanie, WI
7a wings
Message 9
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| Subject: | Post-Building Boredom Syndrome |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Graham Potts" <graham@pncl.co.uk>
On the other hand...if it's a metal boat you are after... Try this one!
As you'll see, there may be a way to combine this with the RV in some
way.
Graham
http://www.frenchcreekboatsales.com/details.asp?File_Number=BOP12
Message 10
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| Subject: | Forward Rudder Bottom Fairing/Fiberglass and Tail Wheel Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stanley Blanton" <stanb@door.net>
I have the same problem myself, I originally had the bottom fairing that had
the light mount requiring a cutout in the rudder skin. When I got a newer
one from Vans that had the whole light mount in the fiberglass I discovered
the interference with the tailwheel spring at the front of the fairing. In
my case the newer one also has a more square profile that might interfere
with the rudder hinge forward facing bracket bolts. I'm planning on filling
the front of the fairing with some pour foam and then cutting away the front
and laying up new glass to fit.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
I am fitting rudder bottom to new rudder ( mounted on VS ) and I have about
1 1/4" interference with lower portion of fiberglass bottom starting, and
most noticeably, at front by the tail wheel rod/spring. I am considering
possibilities with tail light already fitted in the other end. Trimming
the needed 1 1/4" along the entire length of the faring for uniformity would
be possible if it were not for the light.
What are you suggesting to others with this problem?
Thanks, Builder 70047, Larry Robert Helming
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360
Working on Finish Kit
Message 11
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| Subject: | 6106 skin and 670 side skin rivets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello i can' t make decide on my own for the rivet type and spacing that
attaches the 6106 top skin and the 670 side skin to the longeron. the 670 side
skin is already attach to the longeron with 426-4-'' Rivets at 3" spacing. the
plans call for the top skin 670 to be riveted on with 426-4-" at 1 1/2 spacing
missing the 3" spacing underneath this set up works out good, spacing wise but
because the 670 top skin is though to bend and wants to pull up IM afraid it
will pucker up between rivets. In the RV video gorge used 426-3-" rivets at 3/4
spacing that's what I would like to do but the 3/4 spacing doesn't work out
very well with the underlying 3" spacing underneath. I was wondering if I
could use 1" spacing with the 426-3-" the spacing would work out good but i don't
want to compromise the strength. The first 8 rivets will remain 426-4 rivets.
any input would be helpful thanks.
Bill Higgins
Pembroke Ma
RV-6
Message 12
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Seal-Send-Time: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 21:46:05 -0400
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eugene Williams" <Ewill177@hotmail.com>
Try Addison Express. They treated me nice last Christmas. gene Williams
----- Original Message -----
From: Dwpetrus@aol.com
To: RV-LIST@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 9:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: Addison, TX
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
Any suggestions on where to park the RV8A at Addison airport on Friday & Sat.
night.
Thanks,
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
Message 13
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| Subject: | Discounts at OSH |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Does anyone know if Van's offers discounts on orders at OSH, especially sub-kits?
Thanks in advance. Glenn in Arizona, -9A about to order wings. DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Discounts at OSH |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Glenn,
I don't really know, but I seriously doubt it!
Jim in Kelowna
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Discounts at OSH
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> Does anyone know if Van's offers discounts on orders at OSH, especially
sub-kits? Thanks in advance. Glenn in Arizona, -9A about to order wings.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
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